CN114452243A

CN114452243A - Vitamin C emulsion of alcohol-in-oil system and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN114452243A
Application number: CN202210267231.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 田贵丰; 冯仕馨
Original assignee: Yunan Guangzhou Cosmetics Co ltd
Current assignee: Yunan Guangzhou Cosmetics Co ltd
Priority date: 2022-03-17
Filing date: 2022-03-17
Publication date: 2022-05-10

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of daily chemicals, and aims to provide a vitamin C emulsion of an alcohol-in-oil system and a preparation method thereof. The invention comprises the following steps: the emulsifier cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane; emollients cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, pluronic oil, polydimethylsiloxane, polysiloxane-11, diisostearyl malate, pentaerythritol tetrakis (ethyl hexanoate); humectant 1, 3-propylene glycol, glycerin, butanediol, sodium hyaluronate; thickening agent: stearoyl inulin; skin conditioner ascorbic acid, bisabolol, ginger root extract; pH buffer hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid; preservatives phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol; aromatic essence, essential oil; the emulsion has stable whitening effect, long-acting effect, mildness and safety.

Description

Vitamin C emulsion of alcohol-in-oil system and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of daily chemicals, in particular to a vitamin C emulsion of an alcohol-in-oil system and a preparation method thereof.

Background

Whitening is always the subject of the asian market, and the pursuit of whitening by people is gradually a trend along with the development of economy and the improvement of living standard. In various social situations, especially women, great attention is paid to the appearance of their skin. Investigation showed that 70% of asian consumers are interested in whitening products, and at the same time, the number of Chinese whitening product records is on the increase trend.

The skin is the largest tissue organ of the human body, and care of the skin needs to be paid more attention. Modern aesthetics of Chinese people often say that skin is white and beautiful, and after requirements of people on whitening products are met, the external confidence of people can be stimulated, so that the whitening market is always in vigorous demand. The knowledge of whitening raw materials has also been widely popularized, wherein vitamin C is known as a safe and effective whitening raw material, however, vitamin C is very easily oxidized, such as oxidation in water, oxidation by light, thermal oxidation resistance, and the like. How to overcome the problems in the formulas, further innovation is achieved, products which are more suitable for the use habits of consumers and are effective are prepared, further breakthrough needs to be made on some dosage forms, and a new method is found out under the limited conditions, so that the requirement is met.

People are increasingly concerned about whether the raw materials used meet the specifications. If the whitening agent contains forbidden components such as lead and mercury, although the whitening effect is remarkable in a short time, the whitening agent is harmful to human bodies after being used for a long time, and the legal regulations are strict, so that the products are not allowed to appear in the market, the formulated cosmetic formula must meet the safety technical specification of the cosmetics, in order to meet the preference of different consumers and meet the requirements of the legal regulations, and the places needing innovation and breakthrough are provided with some qualified whitening raw materials in high concentration. Emulsion creams containing vitamin C are also available on the market, are all oil-in-water systems, and have the problems of easy discoloration and low vitamin C activity.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the difficulties and provide an alcohol-in-oil vitamin C emulsion; the emulsion has stable whitening effect, long-acting effect, mildness and safety.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing the vitamin C emulsion with alcohol-in-oil system.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

an alcohol-in-oil system vitamin C emulsion comprising: emulsifiers, emollients, humectants, thickeners, skin conditioning agents, pH buffering agents, preservatives, and fragrances; the emulsifier comprises: cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane; the emollient includes: cyclopentadimethicone, mauvel oil, dimethicone, polysiloxane-11, diisostearyl malate, pentaerythritol tetrakis (ethyl hexanoate); the humectant includes: 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, butanediol, sodium hyaluronate; the thickening agent is stearoyl inulin; the skin conditioning agent comprises: ascorbic acid, bisabolol, ginger root extract; the pH buffering agent is hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid; the preservative comprises: phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin; the aromatic agent comprises: essence and essential oil.

Optionally, the percentage of each raw material is as follows:

optionally, the percentage of each raw material is as follows:

optionally, a method for preparing a vitamin C emulsion of an alcohol-in-oil system includes the following steps:

(1) weighing the raw materials in proportion;

(2) adding lubricant, emollient and aromatic into a mixer, and mixing uniformly to obtain a mixture A;

(3) adding the humectant and the thickener into a mixer, heating to dissolve, cooling, adding the skin conditioner, the preservative and the pH buffer, and uniformly mixing to obtain a mixture B;

(4) adding the mixture A into a reaction kettle, slowly pumping the mixture B into the reaction kettle under vacuum stirring, and keeping stirring after the material body is pumped out to obtain the vitamin C emulsion of the alcohol-in-oil system.

Optionally, the heating dissolution in step (3) refers to: heating to 50 deg.C to make the solution completely transparent.

Optionally, the rotation speed of vacuum stirring in the step (4) is 25r/min, and the stirring time after the material body is completely pumped is more than 10 min.

The polydimethylsiloxane/polysiloxane-11 of the present invention is a combination material, under the trade name HOPESIL 1006, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 77.5% polydimethylsiloxane and 22.5% polysiloxane-11. The silicone elastomer is usually produced by mixing and vulcanizing linear polysiloxane as a main component with a crosslinking agent and other compounding agents. Polysiloxanes are a class of polymers with repeating Si-O chains as the backbone, with organic groups directly attached to the silicon atoms.

The spermaceti PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane is an emulsifier which is available under the trade name of EM90 and used for bright white water-in-oil type cosmetic cream and emulsion, is mainly suitable for light water-in-oil emulsion, can also be used for preparing water/oil/water and oil/water/oil multiple microemulsion, has excellent application characteristics, is suitable for various cosmetic formulations, has good compatibility with high-content vegetable oil and active ingredients, and is suitable for high-content organic and physical ultraviolet sunscreen products.

The PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane is an emulsifier, has a trade name of KF6017, and contains polyoxyethylene group modified organic silicone oil in molecules. Is excellent organic silicone oil with W/O and W/Si emulsifier characteristics. After deodorization treatment, the W/Si emulsion can be made fresh and stable.

The cyclopentadimethylsiloxane is silicone oil with the trade name of DC345, and the cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (also called decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is an organic compound, is widely used in cosmetics and human body care products, and has good compatibility with most of alcohols and other cosmetic solvents.

The fruit oil of the MAURITIA FLEXUOSA is a rare tree species in the amazonian basin, is sold as the bricke fruit oil, is called as Moriche Palm or Mauritia FLEXUOSA, is rich in a large amount of natural antioxidant components such as vitamin E and carrot, and has the functions of promoting cell regeneration and strengthening barrier function. The precious fruit oil extracted from the amazon Bridgkin tree can mildly moisten the skin of the baby, and is a natural protective film for keeping the skin delicate and smooth.

The dimethicone of the present invention, under the trade name DC200, has a low surface tension, is easily spreadable, and has a suitable viscosity combination that imparts a lubricious, greasy feel to the personal care product, and softens the skin. Has the functions of inhibiting foam, defoaming and preventing foam, and can prevent whitening phenomenon when the product is smeared. Different viscosity needs to be selected for different products, the higher the viscosity, the more oily the product is, and the lower the viscosity, the dry and comfortable feeling is given to the skin.

The DIISOSTEARYL MALATE of the present invention, which is sold under the trade name DISM and under the English name DIISOSTEARYL maleate, is an emollient and skin conditioner. This ingredient is used primarily in lip products such as lipsticks and lip glosses, and may sometimes be present in other cosmetics such as hair dyes, eye shadows, sunscreens, eyeliners, self-tanning/glitter and blush.

Pentaerythritol tetra (ethyl hexanoate) according to the invention is available under the trade name PTIS and under the English name PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAETHYLHEXANOATE. Pentaerythritol tetra (ethyl hexanoate) ester mainly acts as a softening agent in cosmetics and skin care products, has a risk coefficient of 1, is safe, can be used safely, has no influence on pregnant women, and has no pox-causing property.

Stearoyl inulin, which is commercially available as RheopearlISK2 and produced by Japan thousand-leaf flour company, is a cyclic silicone oil thickening and gelling agent. Has the emulsification stabilizing effect in the W/S formula, can improve the touch of wax and increase the stability of a system.

The ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is a polyhydroxy compound, has a structure similar to glucose, and has the property of acid because two adjacent enol-type hydroxyl groups at the 2 nd and 3 rd positions in a molecule are easy to dissociate to release H +, so the ascorbic acid (vitamin C) also has the property of L-ascorbic acid. Vitamin C has strong reducibility and is easily oxidized into dehydrovitamin C, but the reaction is reversible, and ascorbic acid and dehydroascorbic acid have the same physiological function, but if the dehydroascorbic acid is further hydrolyzed to generate diketogulonic acid, the reaction is irreversible and the physiological effect is completely lost.

The bisabolol/ginger root extract provided by the invention is a composition with the trade name of Xin Ming Shu 100, which is produced by Dezhixin company, and the composition proportion of the composition is as follows: the bisabolol is 90% and the extract of rhizoma Zingiberis recens (Zingiber OFFICINALE) root is 10% of vitamin. The plant source is purely natural and has Ecocert certification of a French organic product certification authority; the composition is natural source alpha-bisabolol and ginger root extract, and the appearance is oil-soluble light yellow oily liquid. Three skin models prove that the alpha-bisabolol can reduce the release of leukotriene LTB4 and interleukin 1L-1a caused by PMA, and simultaneously inhibit the calcium ion-mediated production of interleukin 1L-1a, but has no inhibiting effect on PGE 2. Experiments prove that the ginger root extract can effectively inhibit the synthesis of inflammatory mediators TNF-a, but has no effect on IL-1 a. The two are compounded into a composite anti-irritation component with synergistic effect, and the in vitro experiment proves that the composition has high-efficiency anti-inflammatory and ultraviolet radiation erythema fading effects, and the human body experiment proves that the composition has synergistic skin anti-irritation effect.

The hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid is sold as HEPES LUV and has certain effects of softening cutin and assisting in whitening; in cosmetics, it is a hydrogen ion buffer, and can control constant pH range for a long time.

The alcohol-in-oil process is a production process which uses a water-in-oil emulsifier, takes an oil phase as an external phase, takes alcohol as an internal phase instead of water, and realizes emulsification by stirring and homogenizing.

The invention has the beneficial effects that: 1) safe, mild and effective; 2) the alcohol-in-oil system keeps the activity of vitamin C, the product stability is strong, and the efficacy degradation period is long; 3) the anti-allergy component is utilized to avoid the skin allergy problem in whitening; 4) simple operation and uniform stirring and mixing.

The vitamin C emulsion with the alcohol-in-oil system completely meets all indexes in the cosmetics health specification (2015 edition) issued by the state, and the composition does not contain any toxic substance.

The vitamin C emulsion with the alcohol-in-oil system is a skin care product which can be directly applied to facial skin.

Detailed Description

The invention is further described below with reference to examples, but the scope of the invention as claimed is not limited to the scope of the examples.

Examples and comparative examples

TABLE 1 formulation data Table for various examples and comparative examples

The formula is operated according to the following steps to respectively prepare the vitamin C emulsion of an alcohol-in-oil system:

(1) weighing the raw materials in proportion;

(2) adding cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, Pterocarpus marsupium (Mauritia FLEXUOSA) fruit oil, polydimethylsiloxane/polysiloxane-11, diisostearyl malate, pentaerythritol tetra (ethyl hexanoate) ester and an aromatic into a mixer, mixing, stirring and homogenizing to obtain a mixture A;

(3) adding 1, 3-propylene glycol, glycerol, butanediol, sodium hyaluronate and stearoyl inulin into a mixer, heating to 50 ℃, dissolving and completely transparent, then cooling to room temperature, adding bisabolol/ginger root extract, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and hydroxyethyl piperazine ethanesulfonic acid, mixing and stirring uniformly to obtain a mixture B;

(4) adding the mixture A into a reaction kettle, stirring in vacuum, controlling the speed at 25r/min, slowly pumping in the mixture B, and keeping stirring for more than 10min after the material body is pumped out, thus obtaining the vitamin C emulsion of the alcohol-in-oil system.

Wherein the water of comparative example 2 was added to the mixer as one of the humectants, together with the other humectant.

The invention is light yellow emulsion in appearance, can keep the color unchanged for a long time, inhibit the generation of the tyrosinase, whiten the skin, is mild and non-irritant, and helps people to become more beautiful and confident.

1. Evaluation of stability

The test method is as follows: the product is centrifuged at 3000r/min, the product is subjected to a cold resistance of 30 days at-15 ℃, a heat resistance of 30 days at 45 ℃ and a yellowing resistance test, and the test results are shown in Table 2:

table 2 stability test data for different products

Group of	Centrifugation	Heat resistance	Cold-resistant	Resistance to yellowing
					Example 1	Stabilization	Very slight yellowing	Stabilization	Does not change color
Example 2	Stabilization	Very slight yellowing	Stabilization	Does not change color
					Example 3	Stabilization	Very slight yellowing	Stabilization	Does not change color
Example 4	Stabilization	Very slight yellowing	Stabilization	Does not change color
					Comparative example 1	Stabilization	Does not change color	Stabilization	Does not change color
Comparative example 2	Stabilization	Deep yellow	Deep yellow	Deep yellow

As can be seen from Table 2, the vitamin C emulsions of examples 1-4, which are alcohol-in-oil systems, stabilize the vitamin C activity with only minimal discoloration when made into alcohol-in-oil systems without water. As can be seen by comparative example 1, the product without vitamin C was not discolored, indicating that the discoloration of the product was caused by vitamin C. The water-in-oil system found in comparative example 2, the vitamin C emulsion was easily discolored and had poor stability. Taken together, the oil-in-alcohol system helps the vitamin C in the product to maintain the activity of the product and to maintain the stable phase of the product.

2. Evaluation of Mild Properties

The test method is as follows: the vitamin C emulsion of the oil-in-alcohol system is tested by a chick chorioallantoic membrane for irritability, no coagulation, mild coagulation, moderate coagulation and severe coagulation which are respectively judged to be 0, 1, 2 and 3 points. The test results are shown in the following table:

TABLE 3 Mild testing data for various products

As can be seen from table 3, the vitamin C emulsion of the alcohol-in-oil system has moderate irritation at a vitamin content of more than 10%, and has only low irritation at a vitamin content of less than 10%, and is safe as a whitening cosmetic.

3. Evaluation of efficacy

50 volunteers (half of men and women, the age of 25-55 years) who had taken orally or applied externally any product or drug (such as hydroquinone preparation) affecting skin color within 2 months were selected and divided into 5 groups, and the emulsions of examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-2 of the present invention were used once in the morning and evening each day, and were continuously observed for 28 days, and the change of spots and brown spots was observed with a visia instrument. The test results are shown in the following table:

table 4 efficacy test data for different products

As can be seen from Table 4, the vitamin C emulsion of the alcohol-in-oil system can reduce speckles and brown spots, has good whitening effect, has good effect when the content is 10%, and can mildly whiten the skin by combining the formula shown in tables 1 and 2 and taking the preferred embodiment 3 as a preferred formula, so that the skin is self-confident and beautiful.

The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, and all technical solutions belonging to the idea of the present invention belong to the protection scope of the present invention. It should be noted that modifications and embellishments within the scope of the invention may occur to those skilled in the art without departing from the principle of the invention, and are considered to be within the scope of the invention.

Claims

1. An alcohol-in-oil system vitamin C emulsion comprising: emulsifiers, emollients, humectants, thickeners, skin conditioning agents, pH buffering agents, preservatives, and fragrances; the emulsifier comprises: cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane; the emollient includes: cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, mazuki oil, polydimethylsiloxane, polysiloxane-11, diisostearyl malate, pentaerythritol tetrakis (ethyl hexanoate); the humectant includes: 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, butanediol, sodium hyaluronate; the thickening agent is stearoyl inulin; the skin conditioning agent comprises: ascorbic acid, bisabolol, ginger root extract; the pH buffering agent is hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid; the preservative comprises: phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin; the aromatic agent comprises: essence and essential oil.

2. The alcohol-in-oil system vitamin C emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the percentage of each raw material is as follows:

3. the alcohol-in-oil system vitamin C emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the percentage of each raw material is as follows:

4. the method for preparing the vitamin C emulsion of the alcohol-in-oil system according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising the following steps:

(1) weighing the raw materials in proportion;

5. The method for preparing the vitamin C emulsion of the alcohol-in-oil system according to claim 4, wherein the dissolving at elevated temperature in the step (3) is: heating to 50 deg.C to make the solution completely transparent.

6. The method for preparing vitamin C emulsion in alcohol-in-oil system as claimed in claim 4, wherein the rotation speed of vacuum stirring in step (4) is 25r/min, and the stirring time after the completion of the material extraction is 10min or more.