DANISH COMFORT FOOD AT DENHYGGE

Smørrebrød or sandwiches is popularly eaten in Denmark. Cold dishes are also prevalent according to Niels Jensen, the owner of Denhygge, a Danish restaurant.

Together with his wife Olga, Jensen takes great pride in serving traditional, home-style Danish comfort food at Denhygge. 

Hygge (pronounced hyoo-guh or hoo-ga) is the sense of comfort, cosiness and conviviality; creating a feeling of contentment and well-being within the Danish home. It’s part and parcel of the Danish lifestyle and the Jensens hope their customers will enjoy an immersive hygge experience at Denhygge.

 

After retiring from the corporate world, Jensen decided to open Denhygge with the aim of introducing Danish food to local customers here. “Sandwiches, cold dishes and pork are commonly eaten. However, we serve some hot specialities as well,” said Jensen.

 

Opened in November 2022, Denhygge boasts clean lines, austere décor within: an open-plan kitchen served as the key focal point alongside a faux fireplace with mantelpiece. A spiral staircase decked with miniature flags, rustic wood accents, and large picture windows blend cohesively to create a welcoming, homely setting.

A made-to-order artisanal nuts and seed-laden dark rye bread forms the basis for their range of sandwiches. Accentuated with a mildly sweet and aromatic curry spiced mayo, sliced red onion and crispy pork lard, the Marinated Herring on Rye Bread with Egg (regular RM26, large RM32) won instant approval with its tantalizingly tart-tangy-briny-sweet accents.

 

The Roast Beef on Rye Bread (regular RM24, large RM30) also proved on-point. We gave two thumbs up to the tender, blush-pink slices of roast beef topped with creamy remoulade, zingy horseradish and fried onion.

Delectable sliced pork belly seasoned with spices played a leading role in the delicious Rullepølse (regular RM22, large RM28); layered atop rye bread with onion and diced aspic. Those diminutive dices of savoury meat jelly packed sublime, full-bodied flavour thanks to it being a solidified reduction of pork jus and browned onion.

 

Equally notable was the Pork Liver Pate (regular RM20, large RM25) sandwich. Lending textural contrasts to it were pickled cucumber and crisp-fried bacon pieces; the flavoursome combination balanced out the paté’s indulgent richness.

 

Jensen also offered his fish cakes and cubes of pork in aspic to sample. The Danish version of fish cakes incorporates potato mash in it, rendering its texture softer compared to local one which is springier.

As for the pork cubes, they were brimming with rich meaty flavours. Unsurprisingly to be honest as Jensen had devoted hours of preparation into its making.

Hot dishes are offered and changed often in the Jensens’ attempt to cater to local patrons. During our visit, the week’s speciality of Stegt flæsk or Danish-style Fried Pork Belly (RM55) could have been a stand-in for local roast pork. Served with boiled potatoes and creamy parsley sauce, the customary Danish Christmas dish was rather delectable albeit texture-wise, we found it harder and drier.

Danish dessert tends to be simple as underscored by the Danish-style Apple Pie (RM18). The apple compote used a mixture of red and green apples for the pie filling’s requisite sweet-sour taste profile. Served with crushed macaroons (almond flour cookies), red currant jelly and lightly sweetened and vanilla-accented whipped cream, the light dessert was a nice option to conclude our maiden visit to Denhygge.

For reservations at DENHYGGE DANISH RESTAURANT, call mobile no: 012-824 0020. Address: F13, Empire Damansara Perdana, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Business hours: Mon-Sat 10 am to 10 pm (last order 9 pm), closed on Sundays.

 

FRENCH GASTON-NOMY AT CHEZ GASTON

Rabbit pâté, pork rillettes and pork blood sausage are some of the gems we discovered at Chez Gaston, a newly opened French bistro tucked away in a corner of Bangsar. House-made by chef/owner Florian Nigen (formerly of Rendez-vous), those aforementioned rustic, homey specialities form the basis of his bistro-style menu at Chez Gaston.

 

Chef Flo, whose father runs his own restaurant along the coastal road in Brittany, was inspired to name his latest outpost in honour of his grandfather. Simplistic in its overall ambience, the corner restaurant sets a no-frills stage for the chef's rustic, homespun dishes to shine.

Our bistronomy journey began with the Big Mix Platter (RM99+). Ideal for 2-3 people to share, we made a real feast out of it. Sliced toasty bread is a must, to pile on the country-style rabbit pâté, deer and pork rillettes (similar to pâté but the meat is shredded or chopped), cured Parma ham and Iberico ham slices, saucisson (cured sausage) and smoked duck breast. It was fun to complement the various starters with olives, caramlised onion, salad, gherkins and the chef’s selection of 2 cheeses. 

Do take note some of the items serve may vary from time to time as their availability depends on supply.  Rest assured, the substantial selection will definitely whet your appetite for more.

Since he came to Malaysia, Chef Flo reveals he missed Boudin Noir (RM35+), pork blood sausage so much that he was driven to make the delicacy in-house. Pork blood, onion, pork fat, salt and pepper resulted in the plump and dark sausage we ate. It was surprisingly agreeable; the sausage's faint metallic nuance and full-bodied richness balanced by some caramelised apple dices.

If that doesn't strike your fancy, perhaps the Foie Gras Terrine (RM42+) will do the trick. Dense and unctuously smooth, the French duck liver pâté is divine when paired with house-toasted garlic and thyme bread alongside sweetish caramelised onion and fig jam.

A good tummy warmer is Mediterranean Fish Soup (RM17+). Similar to bouillabaisse, this splendid tomato and herb broth floated our boat with its mélange of fresh fish, rouille (thick, garlicky mayo-like sauce), croutons, and grated emmental cheese.

In France, rabbits are a popular protein source. The lean meat is akin to chicken and I highly recommend the sublime Lapin A La Moutarde (RM59+), rabbit in creamy wholegrain mustard sauce at Chez Gaston.

Braised in red wine for over 8 hours, the Boeuf Bourguignon (RM48+) came up trumps as well. A staple comfort food in most French households, the melt-in-the-mouth tender beef cheeks were scrumptious.

Pescatarians need not fret as some fish and seafood options are available. Notable choices include Seabass Au Safran (RM39+), fillet of seabass on creamy saffron sauce and Prawns Moscato (RM48+), pan-fried prawns with Moscato bisque sauce.

The most Instaworthy has to be Floating Island (RM11+), a mound of soft meringue on vanilla custard and drizzled with caramel and topping of almond flakes. Mutedly sweet but its cloud-like ephemeral texture was winsome.

Yours truly found greater succour from Tarte Aux Pomme (RM12+), the delicious French apple tart generously filled with thinly sliced baked green apples atop a buttery crust.

Its appeal was neck-to-neck with the irresistible 62% dark Ghanaian Chocolate Mousse (RM12+). For a failsafe treat, the French Crème Brulee (RM12+) should fit the bill.

 

Prefer to finish with some cheese? Then indulge in the Cheese Platter (RM38+) featuring a selection of 4 cheeses. Ours comprised brie, raclette, fresh goat’s cheese and blue cheese.

A good overview of what to expect can be savoured via the Express Lunch Set (RM19+ for 2 course, RM26+ for 3 course) inclusive of Ice Lemon Tea, Parisiene Coffee or English Breakfast Tea. 

For reservations, call Chez Gaston KL, tel: 011-3993 0036. Address: 12, Jalan Bangsar Utama 9, Bangsar, KL.