AUNTIE SIM KITCHEN LEVELS UP CLASSIC FAVOURITES WITH DISTINCTIVE DIFFERENCE

Claypot Braised Tilapia with Bittergourd. Dry-fried Hong Kong Yee Mee with Freshwater Prawns. Szechuan Style Salt & Pepper 3 Combo. Traditional Teochew Prawn Balls. These are but a handful of the recipes inherited from the Sim family’s grand matriarch, now showcased with pride at Auntie Sim Kitchen.

Never underestimate the enduring appeal of timeless dishes rustled up by a humble Teochew housewife with self-taught culinary skills. Luckily for food-loving enthusiasts, the grand matriarch’s revered recipes are no longer confined to a private kitchen but served for public enjoyment at the established restaurant in Damansara Uptown. 

The carefully curated menu also highlights distinctive Canto-Teochew specialities by a Hong Kong chef, enticing new and regular diners to return for more. Ambience-wise, the set-up is simple, modern and functional; large posters and ambient lighting evoke a no-frills albeit welcoming feel. Private dining rooms are available upstairs, with a similar pragmatic approach.

Brinjal, squid and fresh shimeiji mushroom form a harmonious trinity in the show-stopping Szechuan Style Salt & Pepper 3 Combo (RM25-small, RM35-medium, RM45-large). Sheathed in an airy, crisp batter, the fingerlings of brinjal, cross-cut squid and dainty fungi teasing our tastebuds with their diverse textures amidst palate-pleasing bursts of briny-peppery accents.

 

The delicate sweetness of minced prawns amps up the gastronomic experience; leaving us revelling in the delightful QQ texture of the Traditional Teochew Prawn Balls (RM35 for 10 pcs/portion) enveloped within an outer layer of crispy deep-fried beancurd skin. 

Imported dried pitaya flower from Hong Kong together with dried scallops, dried figs, top shell and pork are painstakingly double-boiled with mineral water for no less than 3 hours, resulting in the restaurant’s signature broth of Double Boiled Dried Pitaya Flower Soup with Top Shell Cubes (RM58 per pot for 4-6 persons).

According to the lady boss, Elaine Sim, the dried pitaya flower is a rare commodity; brought in specifically for her own resto use along with her own source of premium dried seafood from Hong Kong. Avid soup lovers will enjoy savouring the heartwarming, sweet broth – it’s a concentrated essence brimming with complex sweet-savouriness that satisfies one’s heart, soul and tummy.

Should you crave for more downhome fare, the Teochew Seafood & Tofu Broth (RM33-small, RM53-medium, RM73-large) is rib-sticking good. Thick, unctuous without being overly starchy, the humble albeit slurpilicious broth comes luxed up with squid, prawns and fish maw.

A dash of fragrant Chinese wine drizzled onto a piping hot claypot, to release the wine’s heady aroma heralds the arrival of Claypot Braised Tilapia with Bittergourd (from RM38 upwards) to our table. The appetising scent builds up our anticipation of the signature dish, making it a nice precursor to us savouring the actual speciality.

Scattered liberally with slivers of bittergourd and salty black beans, the fish garners plenty of plaudits around the table. We enjoy every mouthful of the flavourful fish; the attendant ingredients complementing its natural sweet taste. In stark contrast, the gentler nuances of Stir-fried Poh Choy (spinach) with Organic Mushrooms provide a welcome balance.

Sim also reveals lemongrass and wu sou gai (listed as prime chicken  a.k.a. naked neck chicken in the menu) make the eatery’s newly introduced Mun Cheong Chicken Rice (RM58++ ½ chicken, RM98++ whole chicken) stand apart from ubiquitous versions elsewhere. She emphasises the jealously guarded chicken rice recipe and the house made ginger and chilli sauces ensure the dish will gain favour with anyone seeking to nourish themselves with familiar comfort food.

We deem it a notable attempt: the tender chicken has a great bite to it and the rice richly flavoured, with the sauces giving the ensemble punchy robustness.

Sang har meen at Auntie Sim Kitchen also comes with an unexpected slant. Forget about the usual viscously eggy sauce as here, the Dry-fried Hong Kong Yee Mee with Freshwater Prawns (seasonal price, minimum 2 prawns) is presented gravy-less.

However, every strand of the toothsome noodles is thoroughly imbued with the inherent sweetness of freshwater prawns. Solid proof of the chef’s judicious braising skills, to ensure the noodles are soft enough to absorb the crustaceans’ sublime nuances yet retain the right doneness.

Simple, light and refreshing aptly describe the dessert of Ice Cold Thai King Coconut with Avocado (pre-order required, RM16 each). Tiny sago pearls lend some textural interest to the mildly sweet treat although the whole coconut the avocado puree is served in veers between young and tender or old and fleshy. In this case, Mother Nature calls the shots but a miss out of so many hits at Auntie Sim Kitchen means diners are still on a winning streak.

For reservations, please call Auntie Sim Kitchen, tel: 012-224 8206. Address: 24G, Jln SS 21/58, Damansara Uptown, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. https://www.facebook.com/pg/Auntiesimkitchen/

IN A GLASS OF ITS OWN

Tartines stole the spotlight at Glass Tartines & Tipples on our maiden visit. The French open-faced sandwiches rustled up by owner Sharon Lam and her team left such indelible impressions, we were left wondering how this outpost remained below our radar for so long.

Although we made great work out of the sharing platter of Glass’ Friday BBQ – a stellar cast of six freshly grilled items (more on that later) – we were smitten by the signature Fresh Pear with Gorgonzola Tartine (RM25). Dribbles of truffle honey emulsion along with fresh watercress and crushed walnuts amped up the deliciousness pairing of melted cheese and slightly scorched pear. Be forewarned the cheesy accent may be a tad strong if you're aversed to dairy.

Homies may find greater affinity with the Char Siew Chicken Tartine (RM28) – an ambrosial boneless chicken thigh fillet marinated in Chinese char siew (sweet barbecue) sauce then grilled to tender perfection. Served with a punchy house-made chilli sauce and decked with long ribbons of fresh cucumber, pickled daikon and carrot, the scrumptious serving left no cause for complaints.

Having cut her teeth as a professional fine art photographer at the Victorian College of the Arts in Melbourne, Australia, Sharon enjoys putting her own creative spin on food and drinks at Glass. She runs a tight ship too; spurring her team to make whatever possible e.g. stock, sauces and dips from scratch while keeping everything on an even keel at the frontline.

The casual, convivial vibes are accentuated by Glass' minimalist, spartan decor with gradient shades of gray. Our poison of choice for that evening comprised Red Sangria and Lemongrass Cooler but Glass is known for its eclectic range of craft beers and true to its name, tipples.

 

 

Our appetite was suitably whetted by the opener of crusty Turkish Bread with Trio of Dips: Babaganoush, Hummus and Olive Tapenade. They hit the spot in sync with the live music and BBQ Friday promotion from 6pm onwards.

On the grill, the choices include Orange & Basil Glazed Chicken Wings (RM15+), Beef Rendang Skewers (RM18+), Chicken Satay with House Made Peanut Sauce (RM15+), Sliced Beef with Chimichurri Sauce, Grilled Prawn Skewers with Lime Cilantro Glaze & Salsa (RM15+) and Grilled Squid stuffed with Cous Cous. For groups of four and more, the Glass team will be happy to rustle up sharing platters.

 

On-point faves: the smoky medium rare beef slices, the beef rendang skewers and the tender stuffed squid. Everything came up to mark – a commendable feat. The only thing more distracting than the food is the talented musical duo’s performance on Friday evenings. Their soothing repertoire is a fab precursor to welcome the weekend along with Sunset Sips and BBQ Nights.

A refreshing counterpoint to the protein quotient is the summery Fresh Watermelon Salad with Feta Cubes & Aged Balsamic Vinegar. Its vibrant sweet juiciness melding cohesively with the subtle green bite of raw watercress and the clean astringency of sliced baby radish, bound by the natural oil in the almond flakes.

 

Luscious and silky smooth Panna Cotta with Mango Puree & Pomegranate Jewels was the befitting icing on the proverbial cake, marking our maiden visit to Glass on a sweet finish.

For reservations, call GLASS TARTINES & TIPPLES, tel: 03-2302 1118. Address: A-0-6 Ground Floor, St Mary’s Place, No 1 Jalan Tengah, Off Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: Mon-Fri 7.30am-11pm; Sat 3pm-11pm; Sun 8.30am-5pm.  
FB: https://www.facebook.com/GlassKualaLumpur/
Instagram @glasskl

DIFFERENT EATS OF GREEN AT ELEGANT INN

The curtain-raiser of Truffle Radish Puff with Twin Purple Sweet Potatoes from Elegant Inn Hong Kong Cuisine’s Unique Vegetarian Set looks almost too pretty to be eaten.

An artistic creation featuring crisp, deep-fried purple sweet potato slices arranged around a flaky domed puff stuffed with truffle oil-scented radish and carrot julienne, the pastry’s outer layer is similar to that of a traditional Teochew mooncake crust: delightfully feather-light and crisp to the bite.

It’s one of the many inventive specialities showcased in the restaurant’s special set menu to commemorate Gau Wong Yeh – the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, a major Toaist religious celebration held on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month. Devotees usually observe a strict vegetarian diet with many flocking to the Nine Emperor Gods temples in Ampang, Selangor and Butterworth, Penang for prayers.

Elegant Inn HK Cuisine is one of the rare Chinese restaurants in the city to offer a specially composed vegetarian set menu to mark the said festival. According to proprietress Jeanette Han, “our vegetarian menu is increasingly popular with diners who adhere to vegetarianism during the Nine Emperor Gods Festival. Since I’m not fond of greens, I challenge my chefs to create unique vegetarian dishes for this period.”

Her culinary team deftly rises to the occasion with that opening volley. The subsequent soup course proves equally show-stopping; a masterful demonstration of nifty knife skills that has beancurd ‘blooming’ into an  otherworldly blossom with fine, wavy tendrils in the Double Boiled Soup of Tofu Blossom with Fresh Beetroot & Carrot.

True to the Cantonese preference for clear, uncomplicated flavours, Han says she prefers to serve soups with a natural, delicate sweetness culled from the ingredients used; through 4-6 hours of double-boiling. Hence one sip of the dark yet beguiling broth is enough to suffuse the palate with the inherent sweetness of beetroot, carrot and wolfberries chosen for its preparation.

Another clever masterstroke comes in the form of Trio Treasures Stuffed with Organic Beancurd & Quinoa. A more refined vegetarian version of ‘yong tau foo’, the pan-fried wedges of brinjal, bittergourd and red capsicum come stuffed with mashed organic beancurd with quinoa instead of fish paste. The slightly nutty and appealing stuffing is further enlivened by a tantalising dressing concocted using lychee vinegar and sesame sauce.

Crunchy like asparagus, plump groundnut sprouts is a new ingredient that rouses much interest among our dining party. The sweet subtlties of the Groundnut Sprouts Wok Fried with Sweet Peas & Premium Cordycep Flowers make it a noteworthy dish.

Springy hand-made noodles are stir-fried with porcini mushrooms and leafy greens result in a tempting serving of Premium Wild Porcini Noodles. Touched with truffle oil, the noodles leave us happily satisfied without feeling bloated.

Such hazy weather calls for a soothing dessert broth and the Double Boiled Snow Pear with Chuan Bei and Citrus Peel is roundly welcomed as chuan bei mu or fritillaria bulbs is known for its lung-soothing efficacy in traditional Chinese medicine herb.

The mildly fruity-sweet broth is also cooling for the body, making it a nice panacea for the hot, smoggy weather. Complementing it is Yan Xi Lotus Bloom Pastry – a flaky, multiple layer flower-shape pastry with sweet lotus seed paste centre. We learned the artful creation was inspired by the hit Chinese drama series, Yan Xi Palace.

Priced at RM138++ per person (minimum 2 diners per table), the Nine Emperor Gods Festival Unique Vegetarian Set from Elegant Inn Hong Kong Cuisine is available from September 29 to October 7, 2019.

For reservations, please call Elegant Inn HK Cuisine, tel: 03-2070 9399. Address: 2.01, 2nd Floor, Podium Block, Menara Hap Seng, Jalan P Ramlee, KL.