FR3084592A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION - Google Patents
COSMETIC COMPOSITION Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR3084592A1 FR3084592A1 FR1857289A FR1857289A FR3084592A1 FR 3084592 A1 FR3084592 A1 FR 3084592A1 FR 1857289 A FR1857289 A FR 1857289A FR 1857289 A FR1857289 A FR 1857289A FR 3084592 A1 FR3084592 A1 FR 3084592A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- weight
- composition according
- extract
- getto
- hyaluronic acid
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 64
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title abstract description 9
- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N (2S,3S,4S,5R,6R)-6-[(2S,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-Acetamido-2-[(2S,3S,4R,5R,6R)-6-[(2R,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2-carboxylic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 229920002674 hyaluronan Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 229960003160 hyaluronic acid Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 108090000765 processed proteins & peptides Proteins 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 102000004196 processed proteins & peptides Human genes 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 150000003700 vitamin C derivatives Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- ZZZCUOFIHGPKAK-UHFFFAOYSA-N D-erythro-ascorbic acid Natural products OCC1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O ZZZCUOFIHGPKAK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 229930003268 Vitamin C Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 235000019154 vitamin C Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 239000011718 vitamin C Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000008929 regeneration Effects 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000011069 regeneration method Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229940041514 candida albicans extract Drugs 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000012138 yeast extract Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 108010022355 Fibroins Proteins 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 241001261506 Undaria pinnatifida Species 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000000605 extraction Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000004936 stimulating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- ZGSCRDSBTNQPMS-UJURSFKZSA-N 3-O-Ethylascorbic acid Chemical group CCOC1=C(O)C(=O)O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)CO ZGSCRDSBTNQPMS-UJURSFKZSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- MQVRGDZCYDEQML-UHFFFAOYSA-N Astragalin Natural products C1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C1=C(OC2C(C(O)C(O)C(CO)O2)O)C(=O)C2=C(O)C=C(O)C=C2O1 MQVRGDZCYDEQML-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- IAJILQKETJEXLJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Galacturonsaeure Natural products O=CC(O)C(O)C(O)C(O)C(O)=O IAJILQKETJEXLJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- FVQOMEDMFUMIMO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hyperosid Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OC1C(=O)C2=C(O)C=C(O)C=C2OC1C1=CC=C(O)C(O)=C1 FVQOMEDMFUMIMO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 241000199919 Phaeophyceae Species 0.000 claims description 2
- ZVOLCUVKHLEPEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Quercetagetin Natural products C1=C(O)C(O)=CC=C1C1=C(O)C(=O)C2=C(O)C(O)=C(O)C=C2O1 ZVOLCUVKHLEPEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- QJTYCCFDQWFJHU-UHFFFAOYSA-N Quercetin-5-O-beta-D-glucopyranoside Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OC1=CC(O)=CC2=C1C(=O)C(O)=C(C=1C=C(O)C(O)=CC=1)O2 QJTYCCFDQWFJHU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- HWTZYBCRDDUBJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Rhynchosin Natural products C1=C(O)C(O)=CC=C1C1=C(O)C(=O)C2=CC(O)=C(O)C=C2O1 HWTZYBCRDDUBJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- HOUHSBKVSRPPGO-UHFFFAOYSA-N UNPD177615 Natural products OCC(O)C1OC(OC2=C(Oc3cc(O)cc(O)c3C2=O)c4ccc(O)cc4)C(O)C1O HOUHSBKVSRPPGO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940097043 glucuronic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- -1 glucuronic acid oligosaccharides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000009499 grossing Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- GXMWXESSGGEWEM-UHFFFAOYSA-N isoquercitrin Natural products OCC(O)C1OC(OC2C(Oc3cc(O)cc(O)c3C2=O)c4ccc(O)c(O)c4)C(O)C1O GXMWXESSGGEWEM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- MWDZOUNAPSSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaempferol Natural products OC1=C(C(=O)c2cc(O)cc(O)c2O1)c3ccc(O)cc3 MWDZOUNAPSSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- ZZZILDYSXRHUNY-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaempferol-3-O-glucoside Natural products OC1OC(COC2=C(Oc3cc(O)cc(O)c3C2=O)c4ccc(O)cc4)C(O)C(O)C1O ZZZILDYSXRHUNY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001542 oligosaccharide Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- ULWHHBHJGPPBCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N propane-1,1-diol Chemical compound CCC(O)O ULWHHBHJGPPBCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960001285 quercetin Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000005875 quercetin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- REFJWTPEDVJJIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N quercetin Natural products C=1C(O)=CC(O)=C(C(C=2O)=O)C=1OC=2C1=CC=C(O)C(O)=C1 REFJWTPEDVJJIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- SZDMSNWMQAMVTJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N quercetin-3-O-glucoside Natural products OC1OC(COC2=C(C(=O)c3cc(O)cc(O)c3O2)c4ccc(O)c(O)c4)C(O)C(O)C1O SZDMSNWMQAMVTJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- FZKBNCDAGYDHTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N quercetin-3-O-glycoside Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(O)OC1COC1=C(C=2C=C(O)C(O)=CC=2)OC2=CC(O)=CC(O)=C2C1=O FZKBNCDAGYDHTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 206010040954 Skin wrinkling Diseases 0.000 description 8
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 4
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000032683 aging Effects 0.000 description 3
- 230000008901 benefit Effects 0.000 description 3
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 3
- IHRKJQSLKLYWBQ-QKDODKLFSA-N (2s)-2-[[(2s)-1-[(2s)-5-amino-2-[[2-(hexadecanoylamino)acetyl]amino]-5-oxopentanoyl]pyrrolidine-2-carbonyl]amino]-5-(diaminomethylideneamino)pentanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCC(=O)N[C@@H](CCC(N)=O)C(=O)N1CCC[C@H]1C(=O)N[C@@H](CCCN=C(N)N)C(O)=O IHRKJQSLKLYWBQ-QKDODKLFSA-N 0.000 description 2
- BYUQATUKPXLFLZ-UIOOFZCWSA-N CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCC(=O)N[C@H](C(=O)N[C@@H](CCCCN)C(O)=O)CC1=CN=CN1 Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCC(=O)N[C@H](C(=O)N[C@@H](CCCCN)C(O)=O)CC1=CN=CN1 BYUQATUKPXLFLZ-UIOOFZCWSA-N 0.000 description 2
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 description 2
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920002385 Sodium hyaluronate Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000004904 UV filter Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000000996 additive effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000004067 bulking agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000003925 fat Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000001914 filtration Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229940093441 palmitoyl oligopeptide Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 229940094946 palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000002335 preservative effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229940010747 sodium hyaluronate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 2
- RFVNOJDQRGSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxyethyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCO RFVNOJDQRGSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940120145 3-o-ethylascorbic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical group [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002125 Sokalan® Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000021736 acetylation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006640 acetylation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000009471 action Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 230000003078 antioxidant effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 1
- 230000015556 catabolic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000006731 degradation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000001704 evaporation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008020 evaporation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000706 filtrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940100242 glycol stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004530 micro-emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002480 mineral oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000007764 o/w emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000036542 oxidative stress Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000004033 plastic Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920003023 plastic Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000035807 sensation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000037339 smooth wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000000528 statistical test Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001954 sterilising effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000035882 stress Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 230000000699 topical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940006284 undaria pinnatifida extract Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000003722 vitamin derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 210000000216 zygoma Anatomy 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/042—Gels
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9706—Algae
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9706—Algae
- A61K8/9711—Phaeophycota or Phaeophyta [brown algae], e.g. Fucus
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
Landscapes
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
La présente demande concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant - 0,1 à 10%, de préférence de 0,1 à 5%, en poids d'un extrait de Getto ; - 0,0001 à 0,02% en poids de peptides ; 0,001 à 10% en poids d'acide hyaluronique ou un dérivé d'acide hyaluronique ; 0,001 à 10% en poids de vitamine C ou un dérivé de vitamine C.The present application relates to a cosmetic composition comprising - 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.1 to 5%, by weight of a Getto extract; - 0.0001 to 0.02% by weight of peptides; 0.001 to 10% by weight of hyaluronic acid or a derivative of hyaluronic acid; 0.001 to 10% by weight of vitamin C or a vitamin C derivative
Description
Composition cosmétiqueCosmetic composition
La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique, plus particulièrement une composition pour le soin de la peau. Plus particulièrement, la présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique permettant de lutter contre l’ensemble des signes de l’âge (rides, perte de fermeté, élasticité, perte d’éclat...) en stimulant la régénération cellulaire.The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, more particularly a composition for caring for the skin. More particularly, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition making it possible to combat all of the signs of aging (wrinkles, loss of firmness, elasticity, loss of radiance ...) by stimulating cell regeneration.
Les effets du temps et du vieillissement se traduisent notamment par une diminution de la régénération cellulaire entraînant l’apparition de rides, une perte de fermeté, d’élasticité et de luminosité de la peau.The effects of time and aging are reflected in particular by a decrease in cell regeneration resulting in the appearance of wrinkles, a loss of firmness, elasticity and luminosity of the skin.
A cela s’ajoutent les effets du stress oxydatif induit par la pollution et le stress, entres autres paramètres, qui renforcent ces dégradations.Added to this are the effects of oxidative stress induced by pollution and stress, among other parameters, which reinforce these degradations.
Il y a donc un intérêt à proposer des compositions cosmétiques permettant tout à la fois une action sur les rides, la fermeté, l’élasticité, l’éclat de la peau et la luminosité du teint.There is therefore an advantage in proposing cosmetic compositions allowing at the same time an action on wrinkles, firmness, elasticity, radiance of the skin and luminosity of the complexion.
Il y a également un intérêt à fournir des compositions cosmétiques permettant d’améliorer l’aspect général de la peau.There is also an advantage in providing cosmetic compositions which improve the general appearance of the skin.
Il y a également un intérêt à fournir des compositions permettant également de stimuler la régénération cellulaire.There is also an advantage in providing compositions which also make it possible to stimulate cell regeneration.
Ces objectifs sont remplis par la présente invention qui concerne une composition comprenant :These objectives are fulfilled by the present invention which relates to a composition comprising:
- 0,1 à 10%, de préférence de 0,1 à 5%, en poids d’un extrait de Getto ;- 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.1 to 5%, by weight of a Getto extract;
- 0,0001 à 0,02% en poids de peptides ;- 0.0001 to 0.02% by weight of peptides;
- 0,001 à 10% en poids d’acide hyaluronique ou un dérivé d’acide hyaluronique ;- 0.001 to 10% by weight of hyaluronic acid or a derivative of hyaluronic acid;
- 0,001 à 10% en poids de vitamine C ou un dérivé de vitamine C.- 0.001 to 10% by weight of vitamin C or a vitamin C derivative
De façon particulièrement avantageuse, les inventeurs ont montré que l’utilisation d’un extrait de Getto, notamment combiné à des peptides, de l’acide hyaluronique ou dérivés et de la vitamine C ou dérivés, permettait de lisser les rides, et d’améliorer la fermeté, l’élasticité, l’éclat de la peau et la luminosité du teint, cette association permet également avantageusement de stimuler la régénération cellulaire.In a particularly advantageous manner, the inventors have shown that the use of a Getto extract, in particular combined with peptides, hyaluronic acid or derivatives and vitamin C or derivatives, makes it possible to smooth wrinkles, and to improve firmness, elasticity, radiance of the skin and luminosity of the complexion, this association also advantageously makes it possible to stimulate cell regeneration.
L’extrait de getto selon l’invention peut notamment être obtenu selon un procédé comprenant les étapes de :The getto extract according to the invention can in particular be obtained according to a process comprising the steps of:
Fournir des feuilles de Getto séchées et coupées;Provide dried and cut Getto leaves;
Extraire les feuilles obtenues dans un mélange eau/alcool, de préférence eau/propanediol à une température comprise entre 20 et 100°C, de préférence entre 30 et 80°C ;Extract the leaves obtained in a water / alcohol mixture, preferably water / propanediol at a temperature between 20 and 100 ° C, preferably between 30 and 80 ° C;
Filtrer le mélange obtenu.Filter the mixture obtained.
L’extrait de Getto utilisé est le filtrat obtenu à la fin de la mise en oeuvre du procédé décrit ci-dessus, il comprend donc le solvant d’extraction. L’extrait sec en actif Getto, obtenu après évaporation du solvant, peut par exemple être compris 0,1 et 1% en poids de la composition totale.The Getto extract used is the filtrate obtained at the end of the implementation of the process described above, it therefore comprises the extraction solvent. The dry extract in active Getto, obtained after evaporation of the solvent, can for example be included 0.1 and 1% by weight of the total composition.
De préférence, dans le procédé d’extraction de Getto le ratio en poids feuilles de Getto/solvant est compris entre 1 et 10%.Preferably, in the Getto extraction process the ratio by weight of Getto sheets / solvent is between 1 and 10%.
De préférence, l’étape de filtration est réalisée avec un filtre de 1 à 5 pm et peut suivie d’une étape de filtration stérilisante supplémentaire avec un filtre inférieur à 1pm, de préférence inférieur à 0,5 pm.Preferably, the filtration step is carried out with a filter of 1 to 5 μm and can be followed by an additional sterilizing filtration step with a filter of less than 1 μm, preferably less than 0.5 μm.
De préférence, l’extrait de Getto, notamment issu du procédé décrit ci-dessus, comprend les éléments suivants :Preferably, the Getto extract, in particular resulting from the process described above, comprises the following elements:
- quercetin 3-O-glucoronide ;- quercetin 3-O-glucoronide;
- dihydro-5,6-dehydrokavain ;- dihydro-5,6-dehydrokavain;
- 5,6-dehydrokavain ;- 5,6-dehydrokavain;
- quercétine-3-O-glucoside ;- quercetin-3-O-glucoside;
- kaempférol-3-O-glucuronide ;- kaempferol-3-O-glucuronide;
- kaempférol-3-O-glucoside.- kaempferol-3-O-glucoside.
Les peptides de la composition selon l’invention sont notamment le Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1 ou le Palmitoyl tetrapeptide 7 ou leurs mélanges, ils sont notamment décrits dans la demande W02005048968.The peptides of the composition according to the invention are in particular Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1 or Palmitoyl tetrapeptide 7 or their mixtures, they are in particular described in application WO2005048968.
Dans la composition selon l’invention on entend par dérivés d’acide hyaluroniques, les sels d’acide hyaluronique et l’acide hyaluronique hydrolysé. Parmi les sels d’acide hyaluronique on peut notamment citer le hyaluronate de sodium.In the composition according to the invention, the term “hyaluronic acid derivatives” means the salts of hyaluronic acid and the hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid. Among the hyaluronic acid salts, mention may in particular be made of sodium hyaluronate.
Dans le cadre de la présente invention on entend par dérivé de vitamine C notamment le (2R)-2-[(1S)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]-3-ethoxy-4-hydroxy-2H-furan-5-one ou 3O-ethyl acide ascrobique.In the context of the present invention, the term “vitamin C derivative” is understood to mean in particular (2R) -2 - [(1S) -1,2-dihydroxyethyl] -3-ethoxy-4-hydroxy-2H-furan-5-one or 3O-ethyl ascrobic acid.
La composition peut en outre comprendre un extrait d’algue brune, notamment un extrait d’Undaria Pinnatifida, cet extrait est un extrait de gamétophyte issu de l’algue brune Undaria Pinnatifida. La composition de l’invention peut comprendre de 0,001% à 2%, par exemple de 0,001% à 1% en poids d’un tel extrait. De manière particulièrement avantageuse cet actif à des propriétés anti-oxydantes bénéfiques pour la peau.The composition may also comprise an extract of brown algae, in particular an extract of Undaria Pinnatifida, this extract is an extract of gametophyte derived from the brown alga Undaria Pinnatifida. The composition of the invention may comprise from 0.001% to 2%, for example from 0.001% to 1% by weight of such an extract. Particularly advantageously, this active ingredient has antioxidant properties which are beneficial for the skin.
La composition de l’invention peut en outre comprendre un mélange d’extrait de levure hydrolysée et d’oligosaccharides d’acide glucuronique plus ou moins acétylé (le degré d’acétylation étant de préférence de 9 +/- 1), de préférence un mélange d’extrait de levure hydrolysée et d’acide polyglucuronique. Un tel mélange est notamment décrit dans WO2010/067327. Ainsi, la composition de l’invention peut comprendre de 0,001 à 10% en poids, de préférence de 0,001 à 5% en poids d’extrait de levure hydrolysée et de 0,001% à 0,5% en poids d’acide polyglucuronique.The composition of the invention may also comprise a mixture of hydrolyzed yeast extract and more or less acetylated glucuronic acid oligosaccharides (the degree of acetylation preferably being 9 +/- 1), preferably a mixture of hydrolyzed yeast extract and polyglucuronic acid. Such a mixture is described in particular in WO2010 / 067327. Thus, the composition of the invention can comprise from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hydrolysed yeast extract and from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight of polyglucuronic acid.
La composition selon l’invention peut en outre comprendre des protéines fibroines notamment sous la forme d’un gel. La composition peut comprendre de 0,001 à 0,2% en poids de fibroines.The composition according to the invention can also comprise fibroin proteins, in particular in the form of a gel. The composition can comprise from 0.001 to 0.2% by weight of fibroins.
La composition selon l’invention peut être sous toute forme compatible avec une utilisation en cosmétique. Ainsi, la composition de l’invention peut être une composition sous forme de poudre ou une composition compatible avec une application topique. Notamment la composition selon l’invention peut être sous la forme d’une crème, d’un gel, d’une émulsion huile dans eau ou eau dans huile, d’une lotion, d’une huile, d’une solution ou microémulsion dans lesquelles les composants sont dissous ou microdispersés. La composition de l’invention peut comprendre tout additif habituellement utilisé dans les compositions cosmétiques. A titre d’additif pouvant être utilisé dans la composition de l’invention on peut notamment citer : les corps gras, les silicones, les humectants, les agents épaississants, les alcools, les agents de foisonnements, les filtres UV, les agents émulsifiants, les colorants, les agents conservateurs, les parfums.The composition according to the invention can be in any form compatible with use in cosmetics. Thus, the composition of the invention can be a composition in powder form or a composition compatible with topical application. In particular, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cream, a gel, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a lotion, an oil, a solution or microemulsion in which the components are dissolved or microdispersed. The composition of the invention can comprise any additive usually used in cosmetic compositions. As an additive which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may in particular be made of: fatty substances, silicones, humectants, thickening agents, alcohols, bulking agents, UV filters, emulsifying agents, dyes, preservatives, perfumes.
Ainsi, la composition de l’invention peut en outre comprendre :Thus, the composition of the invention can also include:
à 90% en poids d’un ou plusieurs corps gras ; et/ou à 40% en poids d’un ou plusieurs silicones ; et/ou à 40% en poids d’un ou plusieurs humectants ; et/ou à 5% en poids d’un ou plusieurs agents épaississants ; et/ou à 70% en poids d’au moins un alcool ; et/ou à 90% en poids d’au moins un agent de foisonnement ; et/ou à 50% en poids d’au moins un filtre UV ; et/ou à 15% en poids d’au moins un agent émulsifiant ; et/ou à 5% en poids d’au moins un colorant ; et/ou à 30% en poids d’au moins un agent conservateur ; et/ou à 10% en poids d’au moins un parfum.90% by weight of one or more fatty substances; and / or 40% by weight of one or more silicones; and / or 40% by weight of one or more humectants; and / or 5% by weight of one or more thickening agents; and / or 70% by weight of at least one alcohol; and / or 90% by weight of at least one expanding agent; and / or 50% by weight of at least one UV filter; and / or 15% by weight of at least one emulsifying agent; and / or 5% by weight of at least one dye; and / or 30% by weight of at least one preservative; and / or 10% by weight of at least one perfume.
Le corps gras est notamment choisi parmi les huiles, notamment huiles végétales, minérales, les cires, les graisses, notamment alcool gras comprenant une chaîne carbonée de 12 à 26 atomes de carbone, et leurs mélanges.The fatty substance is in particular chosen from oils, in particular vegetable and mineral oils, waxes, fats, in particular fatty alcohol comprising a carbon chain of 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and their mixtures.
Les silicones sont notamment choisis parmi les silicones volatils, par exemple le cyclopentasiloxane, la diméthicone, et leurs mélanges.The silicones are especially chosen from volatile silicones, for example cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, and their mixtures.
Les humectants sont notamment choisis parmi la glycérine, le propylène glycol, le polyéthylèneglycol et leurs mélanges.The humectants are especially chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and their mixtures.
Les agents épaississants sont notamment choisis parmi la gomme xanthane, les carbomères, et leurs mélanges.The thickening agents are in particular chosen from xanthan gum, carbomers, and their mixtures.
L’alcool est par exemple l’éthanol.The alcohol is for example ethanol.
L’agent de foisonnement est notamment choisi parmi le talc, la silice, la poudre de nylon, et leurs mélanges.The bulking agent is especially chosen from talc, silica, nylon powder, and mixtures thereof.
L’agent émulsifiant est choisi parmi les tensioactifs anioniques, amphotères, non ioniques, par exemple polyéthylène glycol stéarate, ceteareth, et leurs mélanges.The emulsifying agent is chosen from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic surfactants, for example polyethylene glycol stearate, ceteareth, and their mixtures.
De préférence, la composition selon l’invention est une composition aqueuse.Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an aqueous composition.
La composition de l’invention peut être obtenue par simple mélange des différents ingrédients mentionnés ci-dessus.The composition of the invention can be obtained by simple mixing of the various ingredients mentioned above.
La présente invention concerne également l’utilisation d’une composition telle que décrit ci-dessus sur la peau, notamment pour améliorer l’aspect de la peau et la régénération cellulaire.The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above on the skin, in particular for improving the appearance of the skin and cell regeneration.
De manière particulièrement avantageuse, la présente invention concerne l’utilisation d’une composition selon l’invention pour lisser les rides, et améliorer la fermeté, l’élasticité, l’éclat de la peau et la luminosité du teint, notamment en stimulant la régénération cellulaire.In a particularly advantageous manner, the present invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for smoothing wrinkles, and improving the firmness, the elasticity, the radiance of the skin and the luminosity of the complexion, in particular by stimulating the cell regeneration.
La présente invention va maintenant être décrite à l’aide d’exemples non limitatifs.The present invention will now be described with the aid of nonlimiting examples.
Exemple 1 : Composition selon l’inventionExample 1: Composition according to the invention
La composition suivante est préparée :The following composition is prepared:
Eau 63,1% en poidsWater 63.1% by weight
Extrait de Getto 4 % en poids (soit 0,12% en poids de matière active Getto) Humectant 8,11705% en poidsGetto extract 4% by weight (i.e. 0.12% by weight of active ingredient Getto) Humectant 8.11705% by weight
- Corps gras 15,951 % en poids- Fat 15.951% by weight
Emulsionnant : 3,2235% en poidsEmulsifier: 3.2235% by weight
- Conservateur 1,43% en poids- Preservative 1.43% by weight
- 3-o-éthyl acide ascorbique 0,5% en poids- 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid 0.5% by weight
Épaississant 0,365% en poidsThickener 0.365% by weight
Parfum 0,2% en poidsPerfume 0.2% by weight
- Sodium hyaluronate 0,1% en poids- Sodium hyaluronate 0.1% by weight
- 0,0003% en poids de Palmitoyl tripeptide 1 et 0,00015% en poids de Palmitoyl tetrapeptide 7 ;- 0.0003% by weight of Palmitoyl tripeptide 1 and 0.00015% by weight of Palmitoyl tetrapeptide 7;
- 2,9% d’extrait de levure lyophilisé et 0,023% d’acide polyglucuronique- 2.9% lyophilized yeast extract and 0.023% polyglucuronic acid
- 0,063% en poids de fibroine- 0.063% by weight of fibroin
- 0,05% en poids d’extrait d’Undaria Pinnatifida- 0.05% by weight of Undaria Pinnatifida extract
Exemple 2 : RésultatsExample 2: Results
La composition de l’exemple 1 a été testée pendant 28 jours par un groupe de 22 sujets adultes (46 à 66 ans, âge moyen 60 ans) féminins sains, sous contrôle dermatologique. Les sujets présentent avant la phase de tests des rides au niveau de la patte d’oie, un manque de fermeté au niveau du visage et un teint terne et fatigué.The composition of Example 1 was tested for 28 days by a group of 22 healthy adult females (46 to 66 years old, average age 60 years old), under dermatological control. Subjects present before the test phase wrinkles in the crow's feet, a lack of firmness in the face and a dull and tired complexion.
Le produit a été appliqué 2 fois par jour, pendant 28 jours, sur le visage et le cou préalablement nettoyés et secs.The product was applied twice a day for 28 days to the cleansed and dry face and neck.
Les sujets restent dans une salle à température 200 +/- 2°C et hygrométrie contrôlée (45 +/-5%) HR) au moins 15 minutes avant le scorage clinique et au maximum 30 minutes avant les mesures instrumentales.The subjects remain in a room at temperature 200 +/- 2 ° C and controlled humidity (45 +/- 5%) RH) at least 15 minutes before the clinical scoring and at most 30 minutes before the instrumental measurements.
- Effet sur le teint- Effect on the complexion
Avant le début des essais et après 28 jours d’utilisation une esthéticienne évalue la luminosité du teint face à une table Evalux Bench® qui permet d’évaluer les paramètres dans des conditions de lumières répétables.Before the start of the tests and after 28 days of use, an esthetician assesses the luminosity of the complexion in front of an Evalux Bench® table which allows the parameters to be evaluated under repeatable light conditions.
Les scores donnés sont les suivants :The scores given are as follows:
: teint très terne, très peu lumineux, qui ne renvoie pas la lumière, aspect mauvaise mine : teint très éclatant, très lumineux, qui renvoie très bien la lumière, aspect bonne mine.: very dull complexion, very little light, which does not reflect light, bad-looking appearance: very bright complexion, very bright, which returns light very well, good-looking aspect.
Le score moyen obtenu au début de l’étude (JO) est de 4,5 et le score moyen obtenu après 28 jours est de 5,2 la variation par rapport à JO est de 17% et la valeur de p est de 0,0010, les résultats sont donc significatifs.The average score obtained at the start of the study (JO) is 4.5 and the average score obtained after 28 days is 5.2 the variation compared to JO is 17% and the p value is 0, 0010, the results are therefore significant.
- Evaluation des propriétés biomécanigues de la peau par cutométrie- Evaluation of the biomechanical properties of the skin by cutometry
Les mesures sont prises à l’aide du Cutomètre MPA580® sur la pommette gauche ou droite à J0 et après 28 jours (J28). L’utilisation de cet appareil permet d’obtenir les paramètres illustrant les propriétés viscoélastiques de la peau. Cette méthode permet la mesure des propriétés biomécaniques de la peau après étirement. On obtient les données suivantes :The measurements are taken using the MPA580® Cutometer on the left or right cheekbone at D0 and after 28 days (D28). The use of this device makes it possible to obtain the parameters illustrating the viscoelastic properties of the skin. This method allows the measurement of the biomechanical properties of the skin after stretching. The following data are obtained:
R0=Uf : extensibilité totaleR0 = Uf: total extensibility
Ue : extensibilité immédiate (élasticité)Ue: immediate extensibility (elasticity)
Uv : extensibilité viscoélastique (plasticité)UV: viscoelastic extensibility (plasticity)
Ur : retour élastique immédiatUr: immediate elastic return
R2=Ua/Uf : ratio du retour totalR2 = Ua / Uf: total return ratio
R5=Ur/Ue : taux de retour élastiqueR5 = Ur / Ue: elastic return rate
R7=Ur/Uf : taux de retour élastiqueR7 = Ur / Uf: elastic return rate
R6=Uv/Ue : taux de viscoélasticitéR6 = Uv / Ue: viscoelasticity rate
- Uf représente le comportement passif de la peau par rapport à la force appliquée. Si ce paramètre diminue, la peau est plus ferme (effet tenseur) ; s’il augmente, la peau est plus souple.- Uf represents the passive behavior of the skin with respect to the force applied. If this parameter decreases, the skin is firmer (tightening effect); if it increases, the skin is more supple.
- Ue représente le comportement purement élastique de la peau à l’étirement et le paramètre Uv correspond à son comportement plastique.- Ue represents the purely elastic behavior of the skin in stretching and the parameter Uv corresponds to its plastic behavior.
L’évaluation des propriétés biomécaniques de la peau par cutométrie montre une diminution statistiquement significative des paramètres Uv et (Uv/Ue), une augmentation statistiquement significative du paramètre Ue. La combinaison de ces variations permet de mettre en évidence une amélioration de l’élasticité de la peau après 28 jours d’utilisation de la composition de l’invention.The evaluation of the biomechanical properties of the skin by cutometry shows a statistically significant decrease in the Uv and (Uv / Ue) parameters, a statistically significant increase in the Ue parameter. The combination of these variations makes it possible to demonstrate an improvement in the elasticity of the skin after 28 days of using the composition of the invention.
Par ailleurs, immédiatement après application :Furthermore, immediately after application:
77% des sujets considèrent avoir une sensation de peau repulpée, 86% une peau plus lumineuse, 77% un teint homogène et unifié. Pour 73% des sujets les rides sont lissées et la peau plus tonique. Pour 86% des sujets la peau est plus confortable, souple et plus hydratée.77% of subjects consider having a plumped skin sensation, 86% a brighter skin, 77% a homogeneous and even complexion. For 73% of subjects wrinkles are smoothed and the skin more toned. For 86% of subjects, the skin is more comfortable, supple and more hydrated.
Après 28 jours d’utilisation :After 28 days of use:
77% des sujets considèrent que leurs rides sont lissées, leur peau plus ferme, le teint plus rayonnant et lumineux, la peau plus belle.77% of subjects consider that their wrinkles are smoothed, their skin is firmer, the complexion more radiant and luminous, the skin more beautiful.
73% des sujets considèrent que leur peau est plus tonique et redensifiée.73% of subjects consider that their skin is more toned and redensified.
86% des sujets considèrent que leur peau est régénérée, plus souple et plus confortable. 68% des sujets considèrent que leur peau paraît plus jeune.86% of subjects consider that their skin is regenerated, more supple and more comfortable. 68% of subjects consider that their skin appears younger.
59% des sujets considèrent que les signes de vieillissement paraissent estompés et la peau transformée.59% of subjects consider that the signs of aging appear blurred and the skin transformed.
82% des sujets estiment que leur teint est unifié, homogène et la peau mieux hydratée.82% of the subjects believe that their complexion is uniform, homogeneous and the skin better hydrated.
Par ailleurs, 86% des sujets estiment que leur peau est régénérée.In addition, 86% of subjects believe that their skin is regenerated.
Claims (10)
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| WO2023067251A1 (en) | 2021-10-22 | 2023-04-27 | Jr | Composition for use in the cutaneous synthesis of hyaluronic acid, in an immuno-cutaneous response and to improve skin |
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