DE2406172A1 - PROCESS AND EQUIPMENT FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CLOTHES FROM ADJACENT TRACKS BY MEANS OF CONNECTING FEMES DURING THE MANUFACTURE OF THESE TRACKS - Google Patents

Description

FATBKTANWAIiT

DIPL ·. ING. ß. HOLZEE

AUGSBTJBG

PHILIPPIjyE-WELäEK-SXBASS »14

N. 225

Augsburg, February 6th

National Research Development Corporation ,, Kingsgate House _s
66-74 Victoria Street ,, London S ₀ W ₀ I ₉ England

Method and device for the manufacture of articles of clothing

from adjacent webs by means of connecting threads during the manufacture of these webs

The invention relates to a method sur least teii- vmisen producing one or more fassonierter garments from adjacent webs by Mitel the other connecting them by means of one or more threads during the preparation of these webs "

If in the course of the following explanations the expression "Sewing together" is used, is thus the mutual connection of textile parts by means of one or more threads or The like. Meant along the outline of a garment blank.

In the manufacture of garments, the sewing is carried out of the individual Kleiäungsstückzuschnitte either by hand or using prior hand-jfuß- or engine driven sewing machines, the blanks are each cut out in front of the sewing together of respective Viarenbahnen and thereafter sewing together of the blanks. For the purpose of sewing the individual garment parts together with their edges to be sewn together, so that the seams can be guided along these sewing edges. If certain "Articles in large numbers and are else manufactured in different sizes to this V / _f so large Maren inventories and / or cutting supplies must be kept in stock, which results in a great need of expensive storage space. The matching one a blanks with their * llähkanten requires time and also währena AESS sewing must be Hähksnten _s aneinandsrgehalten so precious Zsit lost

j2-fS * "- ^ * = ¹ " ^ ι '^ Ή' ^ Γ'- Τ / 'ί **; T ⁵ ^ iP- ^ l ί "^ ^ ^- I:" I, 5:? p - ^ 'ί ^' h '^ if ^' ^

Garments such as sanitary panties or bras, on Doppe ^ needle bar Raschel warp knitting machines to manufacture in that two separate, mutually adjacent webs, are knitted ₉ each of which each is associated with a needle bar, which is a prerequisite that the garments to be produced substantially the full • Occupy the width of the fabric and the sewing of the garments is accomplished by the fact that the two lengths of fabric are worked together in a corresponding manner along their inner and outer knitted edges by threads that are guided by thread guides, which in turn are controlled by separate guide rails, the latter cooperating with the two needle bars . These edge connecting threads bind into the general pattern of both fabric panels so that the seam cannot be seen.

According to these older proposals, the two lengths of material are always connected to one another and only ever any shaping of the respective item of clothing to be manufactured is, if at all, only based on any Adaptation processes to the machine activity, for example by changing the mesh size while the two are knitting Material webs where necessary.

However, there is often a requirement for a pattern

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to put on two adjacent textile webs and then sewing the two webs together along parts of the pattern outlines undertake and then cut out the goods from the material webs. In this way, garments can be at least partially manufacture. Certain items of clothing are cut so that two cuts of these items of clothing are identical to each other. The garment part to be manufactured or »Garment then adjusts with reference to the seam symmetrical structure. Such a symmetry is not absolutely necessary, since it is also possible to have different Cut out blanks from two lengths of material and still part of them along a suitable sewing edge sewing together a piece of clothing.

With double needle bar Raschel warp knitting machines it is possible, the amplitude of the oscillating movement of the leg rail arrangement to enlarge so that all Lochnadelaätze in certain overlapping positions of the needle bars through the Pass through gaps between the latch needles so that, for example, certain sets of punch needles pass after they have passed through can be offset through these spaces. In this way one achieves that the two material webs · !! about the can be connected to one another across the entire width of the goods. This technique is used in making simple articles, for example in the manufacture of packaging sacks. Often

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there are also further connections between the two material lines needed. This has so far been achieved by using additional rails on both sides of the width of the goods Iiochnadeln are arranged so that it is possible to use hose-like Manufacture of items »panties and bras can, for example, through such a band-wise cooperation using the full width of the goods in one piece be knitted «, It is also possible ^, in this way stockings and make jerseys. The misalignment of the rails are known to be controlled by pattern chains and these pattern chains allow an offset only within narrow limits « For precisely these reasons, one can only use the technique just mentioned of band-wise cooperation to a very limited extent in the manufacture of items of clothing make whose style has a relatively low wealth of contours having. As soon as garments of a style are to be made that require more vivid contours, must return to the old technique of cutting and sewing the cut edges together »

By the invention, the object to be solved is the need for a large storage Maren "and / or Zusehnitfcvorräte and the large amount of work of the Aufeinanderausrichtens or the cutting edges sum purpose of stitching together ₀ of maintaining the mutual orientation

to avoid while sewing.

On the basis of a method of the general type set out in the introduction, this object is achieved according to the invention solved that the material webs are made by knitting or weaving and the threads in the at least partially overlapping Material webs with mutual connection of the same knitted or woven and thereby guided so that the Seams at least partially run at considerable angles to the fabric edge or warp direction, and that the on this Weisö produced garments or garment parts, if necessary, only then cut out of the material webs will.

The method according to the invention therefore also differs from that which is already known per se in the manner described above Principle Use of connecting the textile parts in question to one another at the same time as they are being manufactured. The invention can therefore be used wherever two or more adjacent textile webs are produced. The method according to the invention is particularly suitable for its use in connection with double needle bar Raschel warp knitting machines or with Doppelfae-h-Schnellschützen weaving machines.

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When carrying out the method according to the invention, at least one of the connecting threads is expediently guided in such a way that it outlines a repetitive pattern in such a way that a continuous web of material containing a large number of items of clothing to be produced is created. Preferably, a thread for marking at least one of the garments or "garment pieces is at least at least partially contouring cutting line woven in one of the webs with or acted with _# in at least. The connecting marking threads determine at least two lines that determine the contours of the garments or garment parts to be produced ₉ side by side within the width of the goods in the longitudinal direction of the webs of more or less reciprocating lines · Preferably the entry of the connection is controlled · = Or «marking threads depending on a sample representation of the garments to be produced or« garment parts ·

The invention also includes a device for carrying out the method according to the invention with an active ingredient or weaving machine with means for producing at least two superposed webs and such a device of the invention is characterized according to _see that the machine further comprises a ausammenarbeitende with this means, however, separately controlled by its means to the

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Entry of one or more connecting threads during the Has production of the goods.

The method according to the invention and the device according to the invention bring the technical progress compared to the known methods and the known devices used for their implementation that, for example, in the production of simple women's panties, jerseys or the like, the machine downtimes are significantly shorter, since, for example, the setting of the leg bar sets and the The sample chain used in each case for the production of a basic article can remain unchanged and for the production of corresponding product variants according to pattern, size or color only additional control means, for example control hole tapes, need to be replaced and only a subset of guide rails needs to be re-threaded «It It is therefore possible by means of the method according to the invention to have a large selection of sizes, patterns or colors with regard to a basic article of a certain item of clothing or certain items of clothing without having to make larger machine settings, while with the previously known processes, with which only very simple articles such as women's knickers, jerseys, etc., could be made, the whole machine was usually reset when changing to other sizes, patterns or colors had to be, especially

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special the whole machine had to be drawn in again and the chain guide had to be completely changed »

Another advantage of the method according to the invention and the device according to the invention is that, for example, in the production according to the invention with knitted-in seams, these seams can consist of the same yarn from which the goods are made, so that the stitching takes place from loop to loop, which leads to has follow _s that the elasticity 'properties use.The substantially equal to those of the product under "in the conventional sewing knitted goods, the stitch width is almost universally larger than the mesh size of the goods and also the sewing is mostly done using other yarns that are less extensible than those from which the goods are manufactured hence "conventionally manufactured products tend much more prepared to rupture than the naeii the method according to the invention knitted article Broken goods. such as tulle or Markisette ₉ are Naeh the inventive method stitch to stitch together? @? inhibited while in the conventional sewing solohsr Maren the needle more or less by chance that the filaments of each connecting au goods acquired _e In & n ~

g of the process according to the invention are also so-called "avoided ^ under which one a phenomenon y © j? ° ·

which occurs in particular when sewing warp-knitted shirt calico, in which the mesh size is smaller than the diameter of a sewing needle, so that it often tends to go through the mesh when it passes through the stitch to blow open. In addition, it has been shown that articles of clothing or clothing produced by the method according to the invention Garment parts are much more dimensionally stable than comparable articles manufactured using conventional methods «

The method according to the invention is also particularly suitable for the production of articles which are taken up in the finished state on goods trees. For more complicated products, such as in the manufacture of trousers, especially long on pants, it may be necessary that individual seams can be made only after the Aussehneiden the goods, for example, the seams on the legs or the like _t * Ss may also be necessary, for example buttonholes only after the relevant garments have been cut out o <2 ·? Manufacture of garment parts “ Zippers can of course only be sewn on afterwards.” By using the inven- tive process, Trotadta saves a considerable amount of time in these cases too.

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production time possible »

For the purpose of marking, instead of inserting a marking thread, a marking line can also be applied by applying parquet. In this case the the thread guide guiding the marker thread through an application nozzle replaced for marking paint.

It goes without saying that the application of the method according to the invention is not limited to goods lying flat. The method according to the invention can also be carried out by means of cylinder and circular knitting machines or by means of double flat knitting machines carry out. This also makes it possible to apply the method to the sewing together of individual pieces that are adjacent to one another on the left side To apply jersey fabric. There, however, the salkantenweise connection of two individual jersey webs requires the application of a securing seam to avoid looping such an application may not find fans. As is known, in double flat knitting machines corresponds to the part of a cylinder surface occupying goods of the otherwise flat shape of the garment or the garment part concerned,

The invention will now be described in more detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings.

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wisely described which some preferred embodiments show of parts of the device according to the invention. In the drawings show:

Fig, I is a schematic end view of part of a double ■ according to the invention needle bar raschel warp knitting machine,

Fig. 2 is a schematic front view of the machine shown in Fig. 1,

3 shows a sample paper diagram in which a plurality of different modes of operation of the machine shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 is shown, from which in particular the seam angles of the seams that can be produced with the machine according to the invention can be seen,

the? .Mg «4, 5 and in each case a schematic Teilieitenanaicht, an ichtmatiich · Ttilaufaicht and tine achtm & tiicht Teilieitenanaicht of an invention-made double-speed cap weaving machine,

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AS

the pig. 7 and 8 are schematic views of control devices according to the invention the machines shown in FIGS. 1 to 3 or 4 to,

Fig. 9 is a sample paper diagram showing

one when using the controls according to FIGS. 7 and 8 in conjunction is a difficulty arising with the warp knitting process,

FIGS. 10, 10 and 11 each show modified devices

for thread guidance in the machine shown in FIGS. 1 and 2,

Figs. 12 and 13 are each sample paper diagrams showing

explain the thread course that can be achieved when using the control according to FIG. 8, and

Fig. 14 schematic representations of a abge

converted embodiment of one of the control devices shown in FIG similar control device.

The parts shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, respectively

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Knitting machine has two needle bars 1 and 2 which are each occupied over the full knitting width with latch needles 3 and k , the needle bar 1 being shown in the raised position in which its latch needles enclose the thread. With the latch needles, two or more fully occupied guide rails, attached to arms 5 and 6, work together, each of which is fitted with corresponding perforated needles 11. In an analogous manner, with the needle bar 2 raised and the needle bar 1 lowered, two or more fully occupied guide rails attached to arms 7 and 8 work together. which is passed through the last perforated needle 11 of the leg rail attached to the boom 6. The thread 12 is used to generate its share in the goods 9. For the sake of simplicity, the individual guide rails are referred to below with the reference numbers 5, 6, 7 and 8 according to the cantilevers that carry them.

At the various Legschienen suspensions, one of which is shown at 13, additional arms 14 and 15 are mounted for additional Legschienen associated with 9 the goods, also thereto are additional boom 16 and 17 mounted for extra Legschienen, the latter of the goods 10 are assigned.

The guide rails 5, 6, which are used to manufacture the goods

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7 and 8 are offset in the manner shown on the right in FIG. A sample drum 18 cooperates with a sample chain loop 19, the links of which each have different heights The respective link height is determined by the pattern to be applied. The pattern chain links each effect the offset of a certain leg bar by a certain number of needle gaps, starting from a zero position. the Laying rails are each connected by push rods 20, which are spherical at their ends, with sliding shoes 21, which the latter carry roles 22, which run on the pattern chain loop. The whole push mechanism includes a leg rail, a push rod, a sliding shoe and a roller and is each by means of a tension spring 23 to the over the sample drum running away chain links of the pattern chain. Instead of sliding shoes, articulated levers and others can also be used Means for frictional transmission of movements are used.

The additional arms 14, 15, 16 and 17 are moved by means of gears similar to those with their Help, the splints 5, 6, 7 and 8 can also be moved.

Understandably, the links of the pattern chains cannot be carried out above a certain limit height, nor can the tension springs producing the frictional connection

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Be stretched beyond a certain elongation value and finally, taking into account their space requirements, the Sample chain loops are not made long beyond a certain limit.

The mode of operation of the machine which has just been briefly described will now be described with reference to Pig, I and 2.

The needle bar 1 is in the raised position shown in Fig. 1, in which its latch needles 3 are ready, to cooperate with the needles of the guide rails 5 and 6 and with the arms 14 and 15, which around the axis 24 be swung so that the Loehnadeln 11 of these guide rails pass through between the latch needles and their threads pass between the latch needles. This oscillating movement is stopped before the Loehnadeln the leg splint 7 the Reach latch needles 3.

The guide rails 5 and 6 are now displaced in opposite directions parallel to the axis 24, so that their slack needles are replaced by one or more latch needle spaces, usually by a space, in the manner described above. Then the suspension 13 is swung back, which has the effect that the looming needles of the guide rails 5 and 6 pass back through the various interstices of the latch needles and thus the threads around the latches in the desired manner.

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needles are swung around, so that now the needles are outside the area of the latch needles 3. If the guide rails attached to the arms I ² I and 15 are not moved, the threads simply pass back through the same interstice between the latch needles through which they had already passed during the forward swinging movement of the arms, so that in this If no stitches are formed around the latch needles. Then, when the needle bar 1 is lowered, the threads are caught by the needle hooks of the latch needles and new loops are formed, which were then formed by the already in a previous same operation of the guide bars 5 and and the needle bar 1, what by the Activity of the needle tongues 25 of the latch needles is effected. In this way, one of the material webs, namely the material web 9, is produced.

After the needle bar 1 has been lowered into a position at the same level as the position in which the needle bar is shown in FIG 2, the splints 5 and β and 7 and 8 are offset, usually by an amount of more than one latch needle Gaps This underlap determines the Structure of the goods 9.

For the production of the goods 10 with the guide rails 5, 6, 7 and 8 and with any of the booms 14, 15, 16 and

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The needle bar 2 is swung to the right with reference to FIG. 1 and the needle bar 2 is connected again raised »The guide rails arrangement is then swung to the left until the needles of the guide rails 7 and are passed between the latch needles 4, and then offset so that they overlap them. Then the leg rail arrangement swung to the right again, so that the threads guided by their perforated needles around the latch needles in question 4 to be looped around. The needle bar is then lowered for the purpose of cutting off and killing. To this Thus, the goods 10 are further knitted around a row of stitches in the same way as described above with regard to the goods 9 became. The two webs of material are consequently produced directly adjacent to one another. The laying rail arrangement is then swung to the left again with reference to FIG. 1 and then got when both needle bars are in their lower Position are, the leg rails 5, 6, 7 and 8 are another Underlap offset so that the punch needles are in one position come, in which another work cycle of the machine can begin.

As can be seen from FIGS. 1 and 2, the guide rail are cantilevers 14, 15, 16 and 17 each equipped with pairs of guide rails, which are designated, for example, with the reference numerals 14a and 14b. The ones with the leg rails 14A, 143, 15A and 15B connected needles fall into a common

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the same offset line, while the piercing needles held by the leg bars 16A, 16B, 17A and 17B similarly fall into another offset line, as shown in FIG. This special arrangement of the perforated needles enables a compact design on the one hand and on the other hand reduces the deflection of the oscillating movement of the guide rails 13 Pattern-related changes in working width bindings between the two webs to have an effect. It is therefore possible to produce seams which essentially run in all possible, if not all, angular areas to the edge of the fabric, these seams being worked in simultaneously during the knitting of the two webs of fabric.

As can be seen from Pig, 2, there is the manufacture of trousers, i. E. of long baggy trousers, depicted, wherein it is assumed that the pattern of the pant legs extends over a length L. To the full width of the goods as much as possible To be able to exploit, the trouser legs are arranged reversely with respect to one another on the width of the goods and the exploitable The pattern length is consequently 2, L. At the same time, from Fig. it can be seen that the length of the sample link chain used to control the guide rails over such a dimension is almost

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would be impracticable because then the management of the sample link chain would have to be constructed so complicated and so much chain space Would have to be available that such a control would hardly be of interest any more »

The different needles are shown in Fig. 2 with the reference * Numbers denote which denote the braces holding them. The perforated needles l6A and l6B are used to produce the Seams on both sides of a trouser leg, while the perforated needles 17A and 17B for producing the seams respectively both sides of the other trouser leg. The seams are drawn in full lines in Fig. 2 and you can see that the seam lines are laid in such a way that the width of the fabric is used well. At the same time it can be seen that the Upper part of one side of the trouser leg remains unconnected at each trouser leg «The reason for this is that the The seams required for the trousers by joining the two trouser legs are specially designed afterwards anyway Need to become"

It goes without saying that only flat seams can be made with the machine shown,

One end of each leg splint 16A, 16B, 17A and 17B are each connected to racks via flexible connecting links 29, which flex when swinging back and forth

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of the sliding bars when swinging the suspension I3 relative to allow the rack guides. The racks 28 are individually moved intermittently by pinions 3O, which the latter by not shown stepper motors or the like, are driven. Every step of the concerned Leg splint causes an overlap or underlap by one needle gap between latch needles 3 or 4, Sin timing signal for this step-by-step leg rail offset movement is tapped from suitable devices, for example may take the form of a switching cam arrangement, which is located on the machine main camshaft of the coughing drum is located. The required number of step movements to be carried out and the direction of these step movements is tapped by devices, which in turn depend on the pattern of the seams to be made are «These latter devices can, for example, take the form of a tape reading device that reads a perforated tape, which symbolizes the seam pattern in question.

The needles of the two additional leg bars 14A, 14b, 15A and 15B can also be used for this purpose be to guide a marker thread that has a color contrasting with the color of the other threads of the knitted fabric. This Marker thread is only in a single web, for example the web 9, worked in and serves to cut the

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St.

Define lines along which the relevant items of clothing or items of clothing are to be cut out of the material web. Such harking threads are shown in FIG. These additional guide rails can be driven in the same way as the guide rails 16A ₉ 16b, 17A and 17B used to produce the connecting seams,

If the article to be produced is of a relatively small width, then, as just explained, a Width of several such articles distributed on one and the same machine can be produced. It is clear that in In such cases, the number of needles corresponding to the number of articles to be produced in one width of goods must be multiplied «So it is more economical to choose a wide range of goods and the parts to be manufactured to be distributed over the width of the goods as shown in Fig.

Fig. 3 shows a sample paper diagram in which the horizontal rows of dots each represent top views of the individual needle bars, these rows of dots, in an upward direction read, each symbolize the successive rows of stitches of the knitted fabric and those associated with them Needle bars belonging to the rows of stitches with Arabic numerals

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409842 / & 700

1 and 2 are designated, In the curves drawn, the vertical components represent the oscillating movements of the needles between the latch needles and the horizontal components represent the overlapping and overlapping bends of the Leg strips, overlaps run above the points and underlaps run below the points «Die Line 3a shows a vertical seam, as it was described above, during the manufacture of which a rear perforated needle l6A, 16B, 17A or 17B, the needle bar 1 overlaps, it being assumed that the front of the machine is positioned with respect to Pig, I the Drawings are located on the right of the figure. Line 3b shows a thread which overlaps both needle bars 1 and 2. the Line 3c shows a diagonal seam which overlaps the needle bar 1. The line 3d shows a diagonal seam, which both needle bars overlaps and the line 3e shows a diagonal seam, which underlaps and overlaps both needle bars, two Threads and Lochandeln are used, either side by side in a single guide rail or in separate guide rails be held on both sides of the machine. The seam angle hangs in each case on the ratio of the number of stitches to the edge of the knitted fabric the seam angles of the seams shown in the diagrams shown in FIG. 3 for seam 3c equal 45 °, for seam 3d equal to 26 1/2 ° and at seam 3e equal to 14 °.

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Can be used at an angle to the horizontal between 14 and 30 °.

A modified process is also possible for the production of weaves between adjacent warp-knitted material webs. For an explanation of the same, reference is again made to Pie »1, with reference to Pig. I changed the order of the Less bars, read from right to left, to 5, 6, 15A, 15B, 14A, 14b and to 16A, 16B, 17A _, 17B and 7, 3, so that now the fully occupied bars are on the outside and overlap For example, a perforated needle of the guide bar l6A a latch needle of the uadelbarre 1 and a perforated needle of the guide bar l43 a corresponding latch needle of the caliper bar 2, then, provided that the offset movements of the needle bars occur in opposite directions, the threads guided by these needle bars are crossed and the goods banners are crossed by successive connecting threads connected to one another.

In some cases, however, this modified form of the method according to the invention with intersecting threads is not used can be used, as there are two rails for each seam required, thereby increasing the effective performance of the machine in view of the limited number of guide rails is halved, on the other hand is the accessibility to the threads

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the only partially occupied leg rails and thirdly, due to the opposing way of working, the feasible ones are difficult JL-Jahtwinkel limited to a minimum value.

In Figs. 4, ^l j and 6, the execution of the method is illustrated in connection with the stitching together of woven webs ^ which are woven on a double-compartment Schnellschützenwebmas-chine ,,

As can be seen from the figures, x is made with reference to FIG Warp thread groups 31, 32, 33 and 34 the shed one after the other like this formed that the warp thread groups 31 and 32 an upper fabric and the warp thread groups 33 and 3 ^ weave a sub-thread 3ö. The drawer and its individual parts, in particular the reed 37, the rocker 38, the loading block 39, the reed bar 40, etc., are each shown in their two end positions of the shop swing movement, in many ways they are pivoted by means of the drive rod 42 through the crankshaft 4l. Is in the stop position the subject closed or almost closed and the weft thread is struck by the reed on the edge of the goods and In the weft insertion position, the shed is open and the weft thread is inserted by the shooter 43, which longitudinally the rifle runway at the top of the shop block and along the front edges of the reed sticks.

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Additional equipment has two vertical slides, polygons attached to the reed bar 40. These two slides are at a mutual distance equal to the width of the goods. The two vertical slides 44 hold a horizontal slide 45 ₃ with which a number of threaded spindles 46 cooperate. The individual threaded spindles are each fitted with one or more nuts 47, which in turn are guided in the horizontal slide 45. With the nuts 47 in each case finger-shaped elements are connected, which each have the shape of an inverted F. At the ends of the F-legs of these fingers 48, eyes for threading 49 through are arranged in each case.

The "vertical carriages 44 are via links 50 on the machine frame articulated the norizontalschlitten 45 is about a Angle lever 51 and a link 52 hinged to a pawl 53, which latter is slidably guided in the rocker 38 and is pressed against a ratchet wheel 54 by a tension spring 55 stretched out between the horizontal guide 45 and the reed bar. The ratchet 54 is on the shop axis and is through an Xlenmkeilkupplung 56 on rotation in the stop direction prevented,

The shop block 39 has transverse grooves over the entire working width, which are each arranged at the same intervals and with

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the same inclination against the level of the Üchützenlaufbahn inclined are. The threaded spindles are through at both ends Rotary solenoids 57 can be driven, each of which is able to rotate these threaded spindles by an angle, which one axial nut movement uin each one loading block groove distance is equivalent to. Sawtooth clutches are connected between the threaded spindle ends and the rotary solenoids 57. the Rotary solenoids arranged to the right of the working width generate a mother movement in the opposite direction to that Sense of movement generated by the rotary solenoids 57 'arranged to the left of the working width. One coupling half of the sawtooth couplings 58 is attached to the threaded spindle end, while the other coupling half is attached to the armature shaft of the concerned rotary solenoids 57 is attached. When the relevant rotary solenoid 57 is excited, its armature shaft leads a combined axial and rotary movement, by which on the one hand the relevant sawtooth coupling 58 is engaged and on the other hand the threaded spindle 46 is rotated by the relevant amount.

The mode of operation of the arrangement just described is the following:

With each backward movement of the rocker 38 as a result the Pormschlusses the handlebar 50, the vertical slide 44 after

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moved down and the lower legs of the fingers 48 pivoted into the grooves of the loading block so that the threads 49 guided by the eyes arranged at the finger ends are introduced from the edge of the fabric into the lower warp thread group of the subject and are led up the front of the reed. In this loading position, the thread tension of these yarns is 49 _s reduced so that they do not slow down the passage of the shooter 43 through the tray. When swinging the rocker 38 forward, the fingers 48 are raised so far that they are in the stop position high enough above any existing temples or spreader and in this swing position the tension of the threads is increased so much that they firmly follow the webs 35 and 36 tie up at the top.

In successive stop positions, the horizontal slide 5 is displaced to the right or left by one loading block groove division ₃ , this displacement movement being controlled by the pawl 53 and the ratchet wheel 54. The fingers 48 are thus alternately locked into adjacent shop block grooves and the threads 49 are thereby looped around certain warp threads of the upper warp thread group of the shed. The offset movement of the fingers 48 can each be triggered or alternatively activated by actuating the rotary solenoids

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; 09842 / 070ü

«I.

can be stopped, whereby the production of a curved seam is controlled.

The rotary solenoids 57 can either be excited by a perforated belt control or else be excited by signals, Many marriages can be triggered directly by the pattern drawing.

That just in connection with a double fast shuttle loom The method described can of course also be used in conjunction with other types of loom to be applied

From the explanations above it can be seen that the control of the hall device of such a weaving machine in the same way can be accomplished by means of punch cards, as described above in connection with a warp knitting machine.

Both in connection with warp knitting machines and in connection with high-speed shuttle weaving machines, it is possible to To train control devices for the sewing device so that they receive the necessary control signals by scanning either one Create a full-scale drawing or a true-to-scale reproduction.

In conjunction with the Pig. I ₃ 8 and 9 will now be one

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such control described, as can be seen, forms one Pattern drawing 60 a loop, which by means of driving pin o2 is guided over a Γ-tuster drum 6l. Within the sample drum is a lamp 63, the light of which through a ücnlitz 64 through to an array of photoelectric Feelers 65 falls. The photoelectric sensors are with an electronic or electro-mechanical control device connected for the sewing equipment and speak on the light-absorbing black lines of the pattern drawing at. The pattern drum 61 can be arranged either at the end of a warp knitting machine or above a weaving machine.

8 shows a partial view of the drawing loop 60, whose movement direction is indicated by an arrow. The perforation of the drawing loop is on either side of the actual pattern drawing arranged _ so that the distance between the two perforations symbolizes the width of the fabric, The positions of the photoelectric sensors are symbolized by four small arrows, each with the Pattern lines 66, 67, 68 and 69 are assigned. In the arrangement shown, each light signal causes one Control step to the right, while a dark spot causes a control step to the left. It doesn't matter whether one of the additional rails l4A, 14B, 15A, I5B, 16A, I6B, 17A, 17B of those shown in Figs

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Knitting machine or one of the nuts 47 in FIGS. 4 to 6 Webrias shown chine are controlled. Regarding the control in connection with a warp knitting machine, however note the following: As Figo 9 shows, it can happen that certain needles, for example the needles löA, 16B, 17A and 17B of the arrangement according to FIGS. 1 and 2 when tracking the pattern line continue so that the overlap of the needle bar 1 does not occur and consequently one in the seam Interruption arises. On the other hand, the requirement can arise that the connecting thread over a certain distance the pattern line does not establish a mutual connection between the two material webs and instead only creates a single connection Web is to be acted upon. So on the one hand to avoid unintentional seam interruptions and on the other hand To be able to carry out intended seam interruptions, an additional control track can be provided for each leg rail, each of which is scanned by a special photoelectric sensor. Such additional control tracks are shown in FIG. 8 visible on the pattern drawing loop shown on the right outside the perforation. As can be seen, there are four control lanes provided, for example, the additional control track ΙβΒ is assigned to the seam pattern line 16B. On this additional control tracks is ensured by a dark signal that the control device an overlap of the another needle bar executes while a light signal of the

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additional control track prevents such an overlap. So these additional control lanes have a very special meaning. In the case of the additional Control track 16-B thus becomes, for example, at the end of the light part of the additional control track or at the beginning of the dark part of the same ensures that the connecting thread sews the two webs together up to point A. and then only one of the two material webs is acted on, except for the next light track part on the additional control track begins «

From Pig, 8 and 9 it is also readily apparent that that it is relatively easy to change the speed of advance of the sample drum, the size of the one to be produced To change the article in one axis direction. By changing the dislocation sizes between the individual, the Needles guiding sewing thread it is also possible to influence the course of the seam in the direction of the fabric width. It In this way it is possible to produce the same article in different sizes. Because that's on the pattern drawing the sample image is in analog form and is digitized by the reading process of the machine, it is also possible to produce one and the same pattern on machines of different gauge numbers and consequently one and to make the same article from different goods,

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Look Pig. 10, a further possibility for guiding the sewing-loehn needles of a warp knitting machine will now be explained.

With each overlap or underlap, the leg rail 71 is displaced in the manner shown by the usual push rod mechanism by one space at a time. If a perforated needle is attached to the relevant guide bar, then this perforated needle continues to overlap and underlap a latch needle 3 of needle bar 1 and an associated latch needle 4 of needle bar 2, the overlaps taking place in one direction and the overlaps in the opposite direction. At the Legschiene Jl an axially movable rail 73 is arranged, which is equipped with a needle hole 72 and a photoelectric sensor 7 ^.

A solenoid 75 locks the rail 73 with a non-displacing part 77 of the in each case in the excited state Machine, while another solenoid locks the rail 73 with the leg rail 71 in the energized state.

If the rail 73 is permanently locked to the leg rail 71, then the perforated needle 72 executes a movement as indicated in FIG. 12b, which in turn shows a sample paper diagram. If the photoelectric sensor follows the pattern image, the two solenoids ° 75 and J6 cooperate in such a way that

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the perforated needle 72 moves accordingly in that it optionally takes part in the offset movement of the leg rail 71 in each case. The coherent line shown in Fig. 12a represents a graphic representation of the leg splint oscillating movement for one work cycle of the machine. The direction of the leg splint offset is indicated for each lap division by corresponding arrows the smallest seam angle 1, as indicated by a continuous line in Pig, 12c, equals one when stepping in the direction of overlap, 26 1/2, The continuous line indicated in Pig, lid means that the smallest possible seam angle in the direction of the overlap is 45 ° . The reason for the difference with regard to these smallest border seam angles is that in the direction of overlap the needle bar only takes part in the overlap offset of the leg bar, while in the direction of the underlap it has to overlap the opposite needle bar so that a connection is made between the two Viarenbahnen »

This asymmetry and thus the restriction of the seam angle range just described can thereby be avoided be that one with regard to the splint-Sehxfingbewegung provides a two-stroke repetition rhythm, as can be seen from a consideration of Pig, 13e, 13f, 13g and 13h,

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which in turn form parts of a sample paper diagram I3 _e The cough paper diagrams shown in FIGS Needle bar, ie the needle bar 2, interact.

Fig, 4 is still another method for moving the sewing hole needle Legschienen _e According shows this method, each direction of the guide needle offset from the rotational direction of the normal pattern wheel respectively, the normal pattern of link chains are derived "The respective guide needle 81 and the respective photo-.Electrical Sensors 82 are each fastened to cantilevers, which in turn are fastened to nuts which run along a guide rail 84 on a threaded spindle 83. A slide 85 covers a number of such threaded spindles, each corresponding to the number of needle arms and being moved back and forth from the normal sample drum by means of a push rod and a return spring _e

Pairs of arms 86, which have projections 87, are articulated to slide 85. One projection of each arm acts with a corresponding six-speed helical gear 88 together. The respective inner ends of the pairs of arms 86 are hinged together to the armature of a solenoid 89, the latter depending on the

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^ excitation state the optional engagement of the mentioned projections causes the inner or outer helical gears 88 in each case. These helical gears cause rotation the threaded spindle S3 each in one assigned to them Direction of rotation via viälzkörper-freewheel e 90. The directions of rotation of the Helical gears are indicated by the arrows 91a ylb, 91c and 91d running at right angles to the guide rail 64, while the other arrows, namely arrows 91a, 91b, 91c and 9Id show the associated axial displacements of the Indicate slide 85. The one furthest to the left Helical gear drives, for example, the threaded spindle via the rolling element coupling assigned to it so that the Carriage moves to the left with reference to FIG. 11. The piercing needle Sl and the photoelectric sensor 82 move So by an Iladel space to the right and that helical gear located furthest to the right runs freely over its rolling element coupling.

Referring to Fig. 14, a further development will now be made of the control system already described above in connection with FIG. 7 explained on the basis of a scale drawing. According to this control method, the pattern drawing is photographed and sent to the machine as a standardized Ilikrofilmkarte for example the type shown in Fig, 14c presented. The punch needle guide device is again a lead screw assembly

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approximately of the type shown in Pig, 11 and is shown in Fig. 14a 9 The threaded spindles are switched by stepper motors, whereby the perforated needles are switched simultaneously around a Uadeleinerspace or elevator, rotary potentiometers are coupled to the threaded spindles via worm gears and each give one electrical display of the guide rail positions, the i'iikr ο film card is moved back and forth in the horizontal direction four times per work cycle of the machine and one Γ-Ial is moved past a light beam in the vertical direction for each sample scan, the light beam scan is shown in Fig. 14b, The movement of the microfilm card is mechanically derived from the knitting machine in question, the laser beam is focused to a small point of light and directed onto the microfilm and then spread to a hatred that corresponds to the resolution of a phototransistor e shows a sample from a 65 cm long piece of clothing. A fabric of 80 meshes / inch is produced on a jirk machine with 500 work cycles per minute. In this case the card must enter 8000 lines. This requires a light spot size of around 0.01 mm in diameter. With a transistor response time of about 15 microseconds, the line width on the film must then be at least 0.02 mm,

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Pig, 14d shows schematically!} The output of the phototransistor as a series of impulses each time a line is scanned q Each impulse relates to one guide rail and with each pulse the voltage sum is read. This is proportional to the distance the card has traveled relative to the light beam. The signals can be multiplied will to affect the width scale, and will compared with signals supplied by potentiometers, which in turn determine the drive direction of stepper motors.

The liikrofilmkarte represents a long-lasting pattern storage that can be easily read and understood by the machine personnel _a

The method explained in FIG. 14 always gives an exact one True-to-scale reproduction, so that one and the same article in different standardized sizes with this "process" can be reliably produced,

409842/0700

Claims (1)

Claims ή Process for at least partial production of one or more shaped garments from adjacent material webs by connecting them together by means of one or more threads during the production of these material webs, characterized in that the material webs are produced by knitting or weaving and the threads in the at least partially overlapping material webs with a mutual connection of the same are interwoven or woven and guided in such a way that the seams at least partially run at considerable angles to the goods cans or warp direction, and that the garments or garment parts produced in this way, if necessary, are only then cut out of the material webs will. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one of the connecting threads is guided so that it outlines a repetitive pattern, such that a continuous, a plurality of the garments to be produced or garment parts containing web is formed. 3β method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that that at least one thread for marking at least 409842/0700 HO a garments or, Kleidungsstücktexle partially contouring cutting line is woven into at least one of the webs with acted or _e with a minimum 4, method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized characterized in that the connecting or marking threads at least two next to one another, defining the contours of the garments or Klexdungsstückteile to be produced determine more or less back and forth running lines within the fabric width in the longitudinal direction of the Viaren webs « 5, method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the entry of the connection or or marker threads under one of the control of the tarn railway production separate control takes place « 6, method according to claim 5, characterized in that the control of the entry of the or »the connection or, Harking threads as a function of a sample representation of the garments or Klexdungsstückteile to be produced he follows. 7, method according to claim 6, characterized in that the control of the entry of the connecting or marking threads takes place by means of signals, which in turn - 40 409842 / 070U by scanning a true-to-scale sample representation of the Garments or garment parts are produced, 8, device for carrying out the method according to claim I ₃ with a knitting machine or weaving machine with a device for producing at least two superimposed webs of material, characterized in that the machine also has one with this device (1, 3, 5, S ₃ 2 _} 4, 7, 8, 13, 31, 32, 33, 34) cooperating, but separately controlled (29; 61 ".,. 65; 71 .... 77; 44 .... 56) device (14a, 14b , 15A, 15B, 16A, 16B, 17A, 17B; 44.,., 48) for inserting one or more connecting threads (12; 49) during the manufacture of the goods (9, 10; 35, 36). 9. Knitting machine according to claim 8, each with a needle set and a cooperating thread guide for production at least two webs of material, characterized in that at least one further, with the relevant needle sets (3, 4) interacting thread guide (14A, 14B, 15A, 15B, I6A, I6B, 17A, 17B) and also a device (26; 6l .... 65; 71, .β. 77) is provided that this (s) further thread guide moved in the transverse direction by a single or multiple of the width of the salbar (Fig, 1 to 3 and 7 to 14). - 41 - A09842 / 070U 10. Raschel warp knitting machine according to claim 9 with the respective fabric webs to be produced, assigned with latch needles and associated guide bars and with a device for moving these guide bars on the one hand in the sense of a Hindurcnschwingens of thread guides attached to the guide bars between the latch needles of the respective effective needle bar and on the other hand in the sense of a lateral displacement of the Legleisten with reference to the ochwingebene, characterized in that at least one additional to or the additional thread guide (z.ß, 11) holding Legleiste (14a, 14b, 15a, 153, 16a., let llk, 173) is provided and that the device (26) for moving the (the) additional thread guide (s) on the one hand allows the said oscillating movement of all thread guides and on the other hand causes an offset of the (the) additional thread guide (s), wherein actuating means (23, 30 ; 75, 76) of this device control the same so that the (those) of the (the) additional thread guide (s) guided yarn are guided (12) in a predetermined pattern (e.g. _e B, 60) in the sense of involvement in the webs (9, 10) of respectively the Fasson the manufactured garments "garment pieces (Fig. 1 to 3 and 7 to 14). 11, knitting machine according to claim 10, characterized in that that said actuating means (26) have a rack and pinion arrangement (2δ, 30) with a gradually actuated pinion (30) - 42 409842 / 070U «A point, the pinion the additional leg rail (s) (l4A, 14B, 15A, 15B, 16A,! OB, 17A, 17B) each by the number of latch needle spaces offset, which promotes the intended seam course (Fig. 2 and 3). 12. Knitting machine according to claim 10 or 11, characterized by a device (6l .... 65j, 74; 82) for scanning a the shape of the garments or garment parts to be produced representative sample representation (e.g. 60) and for controlling the said actuating means (28, 3O; 75, 76) accordingly the scanning results (Figs. 7-14). 13. Knitting machine according to claim 12, characterized in that the device (oil ,,. 65-74; 82) for scanning the pattern representation (e.g. ₉ 60) contains a true-to-scale information generation and evaluation device, such as a tape reader, a Line buttons or the like (Fig. 7 to 14), 14. double-shed high-speed shuttle loom according to claim 8, characterized by at least one thread guide finger (50 ... 56) coupled to the flapping or sley moving device (38) (48), which wraps one or more binding threads (49) around the shooting track in such a way that it is also woven in, and by a device (44,. «,. 58) for the transfer of the or the. - 43 409842/0700 Yarn guide finger in the weft direction each by a Lin or Multiples of the warp thread spacing, as required by the intended seam course (Fig. 4 to 6). 15. A weaving machine according to claim 14, characterized in that that the device (44 ". ,, 58) for moving the (the) Yarn guide finger (s) (48) at least one threaded spindle (46) with nut (47) and a ratchet wheel arrangement (53, 54, 58) as well as actuating solenoids (57), the latter turning the threaded spindle (s) in such a way that the with the nut (s) interacting with the thread guide finger (s) is (are) moved further by one or more warp thread distances (Fig. 4 to 6), - 44 - 409842/0700 Blank page