CN209836460U - Raising knitted fabric - Google Patents
Raising knitted fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN209836460U CN209836460U CN201822061978.5U CN201822061978U CN209836460U CN 209836460 U CN209836460 U CN 209836460U CN 201822061978 U CN201822061978 U CN 201822061978U CN 209836460 U CN209836460 U CN 209836460U
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Abstract
The application provides a raising knitted fabric, including the matte of cloth body and surface, the Roman cloth structure of cloth body for 4 way yarn weft knitting of every circulation, including in 4 ways of every circulation: one path of viscose tencel blended yarn and other paths of different yarns; the wool layer is a thorn fruit wool layer. In the application, the introduced viscose tencel blended yarn can improve the texture and the luster of the fabric and enable the fabric to have soft hand feeling; meanwhile, the velvet layer is obtained through the procedures of burling, carding and the like, so that the Roman cloth is endowed with good fuzzing and pilling resistance, and the strength of the Roman cloth is not reduced. The napping knitted fabric is a napping knitted fabric which is free from pilling and hair dropping and is free from reversing hair, and also has the advantages of being warm like a cashmere fabric and soft and fine in hand feeling.
Description
Technical Field
The application relates to the technical field of textile fabrics, in particular to a raised knitted fabric.
Background
The knitted fabric is formed by mutually sleeving and connecting loops, has the characteristics of soft texture, moisture absorption, ventilation, sweat releasing, heat preservation and the like, and mostly has excellent elasticity and extensibility. Compared with woven fabric, the method has the characteristics of high yield and suitability for small-batch production. The knitted fabric can be made from a wide range of raw materials, including cotton, wool, silk, hemp, chemical fiber, and blended or interwoven yarns thereof. According to different process characteristics, knitted fabrics are divided into warp knitting fabric and weft knitting fabric. Wherein, the warp knitting is to form a loop by a plurality of yarns simultaneously along the longitudinal direction (warp direction) of the cloth surface, and the weft knitting is to form a loop by one or a plurality of yarns along the transverse direction (weft) of the cloth surface. At present, knitted fabrics are widely applied to products such as garment fabrics, linings, home textiles and the like, and are popular with consumers.
The raised knitted fabric is a knitted fabric with a raised surface and a velvet layer or fluffy appearance. At present, the raised knitted fabrics used in autumn and winter have the defects of reverse and smooth hair marks and easy pilling and hair falling, so that the fluff on the cloth surface is disorderly in the reverse direction due to friction and pressure when the clothes are worn, the unattractive appearance of pilling of the fiber fluff on the cloth surface is not favorable for consumers to wear and apply.
SUMMERY OF THE UTILITY MODEL
In view of this, the present application provides a raised knitted fabric, which has a soft and fine hand feeling, and the fiber hairiness of the raised surface is smooth, and does not pilling and hair dropping.
The application provides a raising knitted fabric, including the matte of cloth body and surface, the Roman cloth structure of cloth body for 4 way yarn weft knitting of every circulation, including in 4 ways of every circulation: one path of viscose tencel blended yarn and other paths of different yarns; the wool layer is a thorn fruit wool layer.
Preferably, the other different yarns comprise one viscose polyester blended yarn and/or one polyamide spandex covered machine covered yarn.
Preferably, the specification of the viscose polyester blended yarn is 50S/1; the specification of the nylon spandex covered machine covered yarn is N70D/40 DSP.
Preferably, the specification of the viscose tencel blended yarn is 32S/1-40S/1.
Preferably, the fiber hairiness height of the pile layer is not more than 3 mm.
Preferably, the gram weight of the raised knitted fabric is 350-420 g/m2。
Compared with the prior art, the napping knitted fabric provided by the application is suede Roman cloth, wherein one path of yarn is viscose tencel blended yarn, and the pile layer of the fabric is a bur carding pile layer, namely the fabric is obtained by sequentially napping, bur and shearing the fabric body. In the application, the introduced viscose tencel blended yarn can improve the texture and the luster of the fabric and enable the fabric to have soft hand feeling; meanwhile, the velvet layer is obtained through the procedures of burling, carding and the like, so that the Roman cloth is endowed with good fuzzing and pilling resistance, and the strength of the Roman cloth is not reduced. Therefore, the raised knitted fabric is a raised knitted fabric which does not pilling and hair dropping and does not reverse and smooth hair, and also has the advantages of being warm like cashmere fabric and soft and exquisite in hand feeling.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic view of a body structure of a raised knitted fabric provided in an embodiment of the present application;
FIG. 2 is a schematic structural view of a core spun yarn in one pass in some embodiments of the present application;
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a needle bed of a prior art carding key element;
FIG. 4 is a needle bed diagram of the pricking key component in the embodiment of the application.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present application are clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present application, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present application.
The application provides a raising knitted fabric, including the matte of cloth body and surface, the Roman cloth structure of cloth body for 4 way yarn weft knitting of every circulation, including in 4 ways of every circulation: one path of viscose tencel blended yarn and other paths of different yarns; the wool layer is a thorn fruit wool layer.
Referring to fig. 1, fig. 1 is a schematic view of a body structure of a raised knitted fabric provided in an embodiment of the present application. Wherein, 1, 2, 3 and 4 are respectively weaving modes of 4 paths of yarns in each cycle; the 1 st path is all upper needles of the circular knitting machine, the 2 nd path is all lower needles symmetrical to the 1 st path, and the 3 rd path and the 4 th path are in a mutually symmetrical upper and lower needle alternate knitting mode.
The raised knitted fabric comprises a cloth body, wherein the cloth body has a Roman cloth structure, and the weave structure of the cloth body is shown in figure 1. The Roman cloth belongs to weft knitting fabric, four paths are circulated, and the Roman cloth is woven by a double-faced circular knitting machine. The fabric comprises the following 4 loops per cycle: one path of viscose tencel blended yarn and other paths of different yarns.
From the aspect of yarn structure composition collocation, the material and the structure basis of surface fabric are done well in this application, have also made preparation for the subsequent handling when promoting the surface fabric performance. The viscose tencel blended yarn is selected and used, and the yarn is formed by blending viscose fibers and tencel fibers. The viscose fiber and the tencel fiber are both regenerated cellulose fiber; alkalizing plant cellulose to obtain alkali cellulose, reacting with carbon disulfide to obtain cellulose xanthate, dissolving in dilute alkali solution to obtain viscous solution called viscose, and wet spinning and treating to obtain viscose fiber. Tencel (Tencel) is a solvent-based cellulose fiber, is a trademark name of LYOCELL fiber produced by Acocdis corporation of UK, and is registered in China as "Tencel"; the wood is made into wood pulp, and the wood pulp is dissolved in an ammonium oxide solvent for direct spinning by adopting a (NMMO) spinning process.
In the viscose tencel blended yarn, viscose fibers have the characteristic of soft hand feeling, and the texture and the luster of the fabric can be properly improved after the viscose tencel blended yarn is blended with tencel. The specification of the viscose tencel blended yarn can be 32S/1-40S/1; the blending ratio of the viscose and the tencel is generally 60-80%: 20-40%, preferably 70%: 30 percent. In some embodiments of the present application, the viscose tencel blended yarn is introduced at lane 1.
The viscose tencel blended yarn is adopted by the fabric, other paths of different yarns are adopted, and different fabric styles can be further obtained. In the specific embodiment of the application, the other different yarns comprise one viscose polyester blended yarn and/or one nylon spandex-covered machine-covering yarn, the viscose polyester blended yarn can be introduced from the 2 nd path, and the machine-covering yarn is generally introduced from the 3 rd path and the 4 th path. The viscose polyester blended yarn is obtained by blending viscose fibers and polyester fibers, wherein the polyester fibers are polyester fibers generally. Some embodiments of this application accessible viscose fiber and polyester fiber can dye the double-colored characteristics in cover, give the double-colored effect of surface fabric. Specifically, the specification of the viscose polyester blended yarn can be 50S/1; the blending ratio of the viscose to the polyester can be 50-90%: 10-50%, preferably 50%: 50 percent.
The structure of the covered yarn of the chinlon covered spandex machine in the embodiments of the application is shown in fig. 2, and fig. 2 is a schematic structural view of one path of covering yarn in some embodiments of the application. In fig. 2, 1 is spandex core yarn, and 2 is nylon covered fiber. The nylon covered spandex machine covered yarn is also called nylon covered yarn (yarn); some embodiments of the application can lock the compact and stable cloth structure of the fabric by molding through the chemical fiber characteristics of chinlon and spandex, and improve the anti-shrinkage performance of the fabric. Specifically, the specification of the covered yarn of the chinlon spandex covered machine can be N70D/40 DSP.
The raised knitted fabric has a plush appearance, namely, the front side and/or the back side of the fabric body are/is provided with a plush layer; the fleece layer is a spiny fruit carding fleece layer and is obtained by the cloth body through napping, spiny fruit and shearing in sequence. The pile layer is obtained through the procedures of burling, carding and the like, the Roman cloth is endowed with good anti-pilling performance, and the cloth strength is not reduced.
The prior conventional combing action is shown in fig. 3; the effect of the bur combing according to the embodiment of the present application is shown in fig. 4. The bur is a novel carding process, has better carding effect on the hair feather on the cloth surface than the conventional carding machine, and has more thorough carding, falling and clearing effects on the attached floating hair on the shallow layer of the cloth surface than the conventional carding machine. The bent needle of the thorn fruit has stronger elasticity and toughness, and the head end is sharper; in the process of fruit pricking, the needle can prick into the shallow layer of the cloth body and comb off the brittle broken floating hair attached to the cloth surface, and the needle head end is fine and elastic, so that the yarn evenness and strength can not be damaged even the needle penetrates into the cloth body. Because the floating hair and the fragile fiber are removed in advance, the cloth cover has better anti-pilling performance, and meanwhile, the cloth body strength cannot be reduced.
The raised knitted fabric in the embodiment of the application generally has a single-sided pile layer, and the height of fiber hairiness of the pile layer is not more than 3mm, for example, the height of the pile is 1 mm-3 mm. In addition, the gram weight of the raised knitted fabric can be 350-420 g/m2Preferably 380 to 410g/m2。
In an embodiment of the application, the preparation method of the raised knitted fabric comprises the following steps:
weaving by adopting the 4-path yarns in each cycle and matching with a proper circular weaving machine to obtain grey cloth;
pretreating the grey cloth, and dyeing;
and carrying out after-finishing on the dyed fabric, wherein the after-finishing sequentially comprises napping, burling and shearing to obtain the raised knitted fabric.
The content of the 4 paths of yarns selected in the embodiment of the application is as described above; the grey cloth can be woven by using a 28-needle 34-inch double-sided machine. The general pretreatment process comprises the following steps: grey cloth → steaming and flattening at 85 ℃ → preshrinking and shaping at 195 ℃. The dyeing is a procedure well known to those skilled in the art, and specifically includes: dyeing polyester fiber at 125 ℃ for 30 minutes; dyeing chinlon at 100 ℃ for 40 minutes; 60 ℃ viscose/day color staining, 70 min.
In a preferred embodiment of the present application, the post-finishing process is: drying → napping → thorn fruit → shaping of finished product → polishing → shearing → decating. Wherein the drying temperature can be 190-195 ℃. The napping adopts the conventional process in the field; the process of the stabbing is as described above. The temperature for shaping the finished product can be 190-195 ℃; after the finished product is shaped, the high-temperature ironing is carried out again in the embodiment of the application, the temperature is preferably 180-200 ℃, the luster of hairiness of the cloth surface is improved, and the cloth surface has better texture and hand feeling.
The shearing is not particularly limited in the present application, and the conventional process in the art can be adopted. After shearing, the high-temperature decating device further comprises high-temperature decating commonly used for improving the handfeel of the wool, and the temperature is preferably 120-140 ℃; the high-temperature decating process can further soften the fiber hairiness of the cloth cover, enhance the soft hand feeling of the cloth cover and endow the cloth cover with super-soft hand feeling similar to cashmere fabric. In the post-finishing process of some embodiments of the application, the three processes of fruit pricking, polishing and decating are included, and the finally formed suede is excellent in effect.
For further understanding of the present application, the raised knitted fabric provided by the present application is specifically described below with reference to examples.
Examples
1. The yarn with the following three materials and structures is selected:
A. 40S/1 viscose tencel blended yarn, 70% viscose/30% tencel; the viscose fiber endows the fabric with relatively soft texture, and the mixed tencel improves the texture of the fabric;
B. 50S/1 viscose polyester blended yarn, 50% viscose/50% polyester (terylene) fiber;
C. wrapping yarn by using an N70D/40DSP chinlon spandex wrapping machine; the nylon-spandex core-spun yarn is shaped into a cloth body through two subsequent shaping procedures of primary shaping and finished product shaping, and shrinkage is improved.
2. The greige cloth was woven using a 28-needle 34 "double-faced machine according to the 4 passes per cycle shown in fig. 1, in conjunction with a suitable circular weaving machine. The viscose tencel blended yarn is introduced from the 1 st path, the viscose polyester blended yarn is introduced from the 2 nd path, and the nylon covered spandex machine covered yarn is introduced from the 3 rd path and the 4 th path. The concrete components are as follows: 44% of viscose, 30% of chinlon, 12% of tencel, 8.5% of polyester fiber and 5.5% of spandex.
3. Pretreatment: grey cloth → steaming and flattening at 85 ℃ → preshrinking and shaping at 195 ℃;
4. dyeing: dyeing polyester fiber at 125 ℃ for 30 minutes;
dyeing chinlon at 100 ℃ for 40 minutes;
viscose/tencel dyeing is carried out for 70 minutes at 60 ℃.
5. And (3) after finishing: 195 ℃ drying → single-side napping → thorn fruit (shown in figure 4) → 195 ℃ finished product shaping → 200 ℃ hot finishing → shearing → 140 ℃ decating.
All the steps are completed, and the gram weight of the finished product of the obtained double-color napped knitted Roman fabric is 380g/m2After washing with water, the gram weight of the product is 410g/m2. The fiber hairiness height of the fluff layer of the fabric is 1-3 mm, and the hairiness is smooth; the fabric has hand feeling similar to that of cashmere fabric and good luster.
The fluffing and pilling performance of the common unleveled nylon polyester viscose Roman cloth A and the unleveled nylon polyester viscose Roman cloth B (conventional carding velvet layer) is compared with the burred polyester viscose Roman fabric C (burred carding velvet layer). The three types of fabric base cloth yarn component ratios and the fabric weave structures belong to the same type of fabrics, and the detection results for the fuzzing and pilling performance of the fabrics are as follows:
TABLE 1 comparison of the Performance of the pile knitted fabrics of the examples of the present application
The test method is fully called as follows: determination of pilling Performance of textile fabrics GB/T4802.1-2008 in the first part: the circular trajectory method.
According to the embodiments, the raised knitted fabric provided by the application has the advantages of very soft and fine hand feeling, comfortable touch feeling similar to cashmere fabric, better anti-pilling performance, good fabric gloss, no downwarping and no fuzzing, and is suitable for application products such as coats, trousers and the like. In addition, the method has the characteristics of low processing cost, low production difficulty and the like.
The foregoing is only a preferred embodiment of the present application, and it should be noted that various modifications of the embodiments can be implemented by those skilled in the art without departing from the technical principle of the present application, and these modifications should be considered as the scope of the present application.
Claims (6)
1. The raised knitted fabric comprises a fabric body and a pile layer on the surface of the fabric body, wherein the fabric body is of a Roman fabric structure formed by weft knitting of 4 paths of yarns in each cycle, and is characterized in that each 4 paths of yarns in each cycle comprise: one path of viscose tencel blended yarn and other paths of different yarns; the wool layer is a thorn fruit wool layer.
2. The raised knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the other different yarns comprise one viscose polyester blended yarn and/or one nylon spandex covered machine covered yarn.
3. The raised knitted fabric according to claim 2, wherein the viscose polyester blended yarn has a gauge of 50S/1; the specification of the nylon spandex covered machine covered yarn is N70D/40 DSP.
4. The raised knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the viscose tencel blended yarn has a specification of 32S/1 to 40S/1.
5. The raised knitted fabric of claim 1, wherein the fiber hairiness height of the pile layer is no more than 3 mm.
6. The raised knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the raised knitted fabric has a grammage of 350 to 420g/m2。
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CN113089172A (en) * | 2021-03-01 | 2021-07-09 | 雅戈尔服装制造有限公司 | Knitted shirt fabric with mesh structure and manufacturing method thereof |
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Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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CN113089172A (en) * | 2021-03-01 | 2021-07-09 | 雅戈尔服装制造有限公司 | Knitted shirt fabric with mesh structure and manufacturing method thereof |
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