CN104013560B - A kind of whitening Chinese medicament compositions and the application in cosmetics thereof - Google Patents

A kind of whitening Chinese medicament compositions and the application in cosmetics thereof Download PDF

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CN104013560B
CN104013560B CN201410313989.1A CN201410313989A CN104013560B CN 104013560 B CN104013560 B CN 104013560B CN 201410313989 A CN201410313989 A CN 201410313989A CN 104013560 B CN104013560 B CN 104013560B
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chinese medicine
whitening
extract
medicine composition
cosmetics
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CN104013560A (en
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龚盛昭
龚德明
何远伦
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Guangzhou Biotechnology Co.,Ltd.
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Baiyun District Guangzhou City Fang Qi Cosmetics Plant
Guangdong Industry Technical College
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Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of whitening Chinese medicament compositions, it is characterized in that its raw material composition and proportioning are: Radix Angelicae Sinensis 30 ~ 50%, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) 25 ~ 35%, Herba Lysimachiae 10 ~ 15%, Salvia japonica Thunb. 10 ~ 15%, Radix Glycyrrhizae 5 ~ 10%.Its preparation method is pulverized by Chinese medicine composition, sieve, be that 10:1 ~ 30:1 adds Extraction solvent by liquid material mass ratio, after soaking 1 ~ 2h, extract at room temperature is carried out with high pressure homogenization method machine under 50 ~ 100MPa pressure, extracting solution is after centrifugalize, by macroporous resin adsorption, ethanol with 10 ~ 95% repeatedly eluting, collect eluent, the mass ratio being evaporated to extracting solution and Chinese medicine is 1:0.5 ~ 1:10, then adds and dissolve with the butanediol of extraction concentrated solution equal in quality, filter, the extract of obtained Chinese medicine composition.The extract of the Chinese medicine composition obtained by the method has the generation of potent check melanin, scavenging free radicals and sun-proof effect, in cosmetics, reaches the bright skin effect of whitening.

Description

A kind of whitening Chinese medicament compositions and the application in cosmetics thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of Chinese medicine composition, specifically a kind of whitening Chinese medicament compositions and the application of extract in cosmetics thereof.
Background technology
China, from ancient times with Bai Weimei, as the saying goes " a white screening hundred is ugly ", and lifetime of many Mies whitening skin pursue.Except born skin infrablack, from traditional Chinese medical science angle, not white healthy not good enough often, internal organs disorder of QI and blood, is in the performance of sub-health state, often shows face and occurs the symptom such as chloasma, freckle.Treatment for facial speckle has laser or the method such as intensive pulsed light, external medication; Wherein laser or intensive pulsed light method to skin lesion very greatly, are of little use; Cosmetics whitening is method the most frequently used at present.
All there is larger defect in the management of China's skin-lightening cosmetic and technology, the phenomenon of adding in violation of rules and regulations is very serious, what have even bleaches using contrabands such as aminomercuric chlorides as peroxide such as whitening agent or interpolation hydrogen peroxide, cause many beauty treatment accidents for many years, even disfeature, cause very large injury to consumer, cause the great attention of country and consumer.In recent years, the whitening agent used in cosmetics mainly contains the compounds such as hydroquinone (hydroquinone), L-AA (vitamin C), kojic acid, superoxide dismutase (SOD) and arbutin.But these whitening agents also exist many defects, the zest as hydroquinone is very large, and vitamin C and SOD are very unstable, and kojic acid also has certain zest and property easy to change, the single and poor effect of arbutin effect etc.So exploitation has good safety, stability, inhibition is obvious, and the natural whiting agent that cost performance is good, has become one of main direction of studying of current medicine and cosmetic industry, had extraordinary development prospect.
Chinese medicine whitening is one of important content of Chinese medicine beauty treatment, is also an important component part of Chinese medical.Be particular about in Chinese medicine whitening and slow adjust thin reason, to effect a permanent cure, curative effect is also relatively stable, this be one very traditional, but lastingly, safe and effective method.
Summary of the invention
Object of the present invention is just to provide the preparation technology of the extract of a kind of natural safe whitening Chinese medicament compositions and this Chinese medicine composition.
To achieve the object of the present invention, present invention employs following technical scheme:
A kind of whitening Chinese medicament compositions, is characterized in that the component comprising following percentage by weight: Radix Angelicae Sinensis 20 ~ 50%, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) 10 ~ 30%, Herba Lysimachiae 6 ~ 18%, Salvia japonica Thunb. 5 ~ 20%, Radix Glycyrrhizae 5 ~ 15%.
Preferably, described whitening Chinese medicament compositions (I) percentage by weight is: Radix Angelicae Sinensis 38%, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) 24%, Herba Lysimachiae 14%, Salvia japonica Thunb. 10%, Radix Glycyrrhizae 14%.
Preferably, described whitening Chinese medicament compositions (II) percentage by weight is: Radix Angelicae Sinensis 40%, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) 28%, Herba Lysimachiae 12%, Salvia japonica Thunb. 10%, Radix Glycyrrhizae 10%.
Preferably, described whitening Chinese medicament compositions (III) percentage by weight is: Radix Angelicae Sinensis 35%, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) 25%, Herba Lysimachiae 15%, Salvia japonica Thunb. 13%, Radix Glycyrrhizae 12%.
The preparation technology of the extract of above-mentioned whitening Chinese medicament compositions, it is characterized in that: take raw material of Chinese medicine Radix Angelicae Sinensis by proportioning, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae), Herba Lysimachiae, Salvia japonica Thunb., Radix Glycyrrhizae, above-mentioned Chinese medicine composition is pulverized, sieve, be that 10:1 ~ 30:1 adds Extraction solvent by liquid material mass ratio, after soaking 1 ~ 2h, extract at room temperature is carried out with high pressure homogenization method machine under 50 ~ 100MPa pressure, extracting solution is after centrifugalize, by macroporous resin adsorption, ethanol with 10 ~ 95% repeatedly eluting, collect eluent, the mass ratio being evaporated to extracting solution and Chinese medicine is 1:0.5 ~ 1:10, add again and dissolve with the butanediol extracting concentrated solution equal in quality, filter, the extract of obtained Chinese medicine composition.In order to avoid dissolvent residual, the Extraction solvent used in the present invention can adopt water, ethanol, ethanol water.
The second object of the present invention is used in cosmetics by the extract of above-mentioned whitening Chinese medicament compositions, makes stable in properties, respond well skin-lightening cosmetic.
For realizing the second object of the present invention, present invention employs following technical scheme: the extract of above-mentioned Chinese medicine composition is used for preparing cosmetics, it is characterized in that the extract containing above-mentioned Chinese medicine composition in cosmetics, its consumption is 0.01 ~ 20%, and preferable amount is 1 ~ 10%.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows: the present invention, based on theory of Chinese medical science, carries out compound recipe according to the theory of monarch.In the present invention, when being classified as monarch drug, its nature and flavor are sweet, warm, return liver, the heart, spleen channel, strongly invigorating primordial QI, containing potent whitening and compositions of invigorating blood circulation such as a large amount of volatile oil, flavone and ferulic acids, have the beauty functions of extraordinary preserve youthful looks foster skin, whitening and speckle dispelling.Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) is that minister is wanted, and its property is bitter, sweet, puckery, is slightly cold, return lung, liver, stomach warp, containing whitening, moisturizing compound such as abundant aminoacid, polysaccharide and cinnamic acid, have the merit of blood circulation promoting and blood stasis dispelling, astringing to arrest bleeding, detumescence and promoting granulation, say in Compendium of Material Medica that it " is washed one's face black, speckle dispelling ".It is adjuvant drug that Herba Lysimachiae works in coordination with Salvia japonica Thunb., Herba Lysimachiae sweet in the mouth, micro-hardship, cool in nature, return liver, gallbladder, kidney, bladderwarp, has the flavone compound of potent free radical resisting and whitening function, has the merit of clearing away heat and promoting diuresis, wind-expelling pain-stopping, hemostasia and promoting granulation, eliminating inflammation and expelling toxin containing abundant Quercetin etc.; Salvia japonica Thunb. bitter in the mouth, pungent, property are put down, blood circulation promoting and blood stasis dispelling, expelling wind and removing dampness, removing toxic substances removing food stagnancy; Radix Glycyrrhizae is for making, and coordinating the actions of various ingredients in a prescription, sweet in the mouth, puts down, enter spleen, stomach, lung meridian, containing abundant potent whitening and the free radical resisting composition such as enoxolone, licoflavone, has the merit of invigorating the spleen and replenishing QI, heat-clearing and toxic substances removing, whitening and speckle dispelling.All medicines share above, can Synergistic, qi-supplementing, blood-engendering, flourishly support skin, and the bright colour of skin of strong body constitution, plays the merit of conditioning viscera, Yin Yang balancing altogether, control the bright skin of whitening this.The potent scavenging free radicals of extract energy of Chinese medicine composition of the present invention, restraint of tyrosinase are active, uvioresistant, and reduce melanin and generate, accelerate skin surface cell renewal, delaying skin aging, makes an addition in cosmetics, and whitening bright skin effect is remarkable.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Accompanying drawing 1 is the comparison diagram of the dermal melanin content using whitening and skin-protecting breast and common skin care milk.
Detailed description of the invention
Below by way of specific embodiment, the present invention is further illustrated, but these embodiments are just in order to illustrate, are not limitations of the present invention.
The extract (I) of embodiment 1 Chinese medicine composition and preparation method
Raw material of Chinese medicine Radix Angelicae Sinensis 38g is taken by proportioning, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) 24g, Herba Lysimachiae 14g, Salvia japonica Thunb. 10g, Radix Glycyrrhizae 14g, above-mentioned Chinese medicine composition is pulverized, sieve, be the ethanol extraction solvent that 15:1 adds that volume fraction is 50% by liquid material mass ratio, after soaking 2h, extract at room temperature is carried out with high pressure homogenization method machine under 80MPa pressure, extracting solution is after centrifugalize, by AB-8 type macroporous resin adsorption, 30% is respectively by volume fraction, 60%, the ethanol repeatedly eluting of 90%, collect eluent, be evaporated to extracting solution 50g, add 50g butanediol again to dissolve, filter, the extract of obtained 100g Chinese medicine composition.
The extract (II) of embodiment 2 Chinese medicine composition and preparation method
Raw material of Chinese medicine Radix Angelicae Sinensis 40g is taken by proportioning, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) 28g, Herba Lysimachiae 12g, Salvia japonica Thunb. 10g, Radix Glycyrrhizae 10g, above-mentioned Chinese medicine composition is pulverized, sieve, be the ethanol extraction solvent that 18:1 adds that volume fraction is 60% by liquid material mass ratio, after soaking 1.5h, extract at room temperature is carried out with high pressure homogenization method machine under 75MPa pressure, extracting solution is after centrifugalize, by D101 type macroporous resin adsorption, 20% is respectively by volume fraction, 50%, the ethanol repeatedly eluting of 95%, collect eluent, be evaporated to extracting solution 50g, add 50g butanediol again to dissolve, filter, the extract of obtained 100g Chinese medicine composition.
The preparation of comparative example 1-5 single medicinal material extract
Take raw material of Chinese medicine Radix Angelicae Sinensis 100g respectively, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) 100g, Herba Lysimachiae 100g, Salvia japonica Thunb. 100g, Radix Glycyrrhizae 100g, above-mentioned Chinese medicine is pulverized respectively, sieve, be the ethanol extraction solvent that 15:1 adds that volume fraction is 50% by liquid material mass ratio, after soaking 2h, extract at room temperature is carried out with high pressure homogenization method machine under 80MPa pressure, extracting solution is after centrifugalize, by AB-8 type macroporous resin adsorption, 30% is respectively by volume fraction, 60%, the ethanol repeatedly eluting of 90%, collect eluent, be evaporated to extracting solution 50g, add 50g butanediol again to dissolve, filter, obtained 100g Radix Angelicae Sinensis extracting solution, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) extracting solution, Herba Lysimachiae extracting solution, Salvia japonica Thunb. extracting solution, Radix Glycyrrhizae extract.
The preparation of embodiment 3 whitening and skin-protecting breast
Table 1 provides the whitening and skin-protecting breast formula containing traditional Chinese medicine extract composition, and the consumption of each material represents with mass fraction.
Table 1
The preparation method of whitening and skin-protecting breast: by the Cyclomethicone in formula table, ring five polydimethylsiloxane, isopropyl palmitate, Miglyol 812, monoglyceride, stearic acid, methyl hydroxybenzoate, propylparaben mixing, be heated to 80 DEG C, fusing stirs, as oil phase; By the 1,2-PD in formula table, allantoin, traditional Chinese medicine extract composition, triethanolamine, deionized water mixing, be heated to 85 DEG C, stirring and dissolving is even, as aqueous phase.Oil phase and aqueous phase are added in emulsifying pot, stir, emulsifying homogeneous, after 6 minutes, when stirring is cooled to 50 DEG C, adds essence, stirs, be cooled to 38 DEG C, be whitening and skin-protecting breast.
The preparation of the common skin care milk of comparative example 6
Table 2 provides the common skin care milk formula not containing traditional Chinese medicine extract composition, and the consumption of each material represents with mass fraction.
Table 2
The preparation method of common skin care milk: by the Cyclomethicone in formula table, ring five polydimethylsiloxane, isopropyl palmitate, Miglyol 812, monoglyceride, stearic acid, methyl hydroxybenzoate, propylparaben mixing, be heated to 80 DEG C, fusing stirs, as oil phase; By the 1,2-PD in formula table, allantoin, triethanolamine, deionized water mixing, be heated to 85 DEG C, stirring and dissolving is even, as aqueous phase.Oil phase and aqueous phase are added in emulsifying pot, stir, emulsifying homogeneous, after 6 minutes, when stirring is cooled to 50 DEG C, adds essence, stirs, be cooled to 38 DEG C, be common skin care milk.
Prepared by embodiment 4 whitening sleep mask
Table 3 provides the whitening sleep mask formula of the extract containing Chinese medicine composition of the present invention.
Table 3
Its preparation method:
1, by oil phase raw material, stirring and dissolving is to being uniformly dispersed in advance, and by interpolation phase raw material methyl hydroxybenzoate and propyl hydroxybenzoate, in 1.3-butanediol, heating for dissolving is to clear in advance, for subsequent use.
2, Aqueous Phase Raw Material is fed in deionized water, is heated to 75 ~ 85 DEG C, is stirred to and is uniformly dissolved.
3, by oil phase under agitation (1000 ~ 2000rpm) slowly at the uniform velocity join in aqueous phase, after adding, reemulsification 5 ~ 10 minutes under homogenizing speed 4000 ~ 6000rpm.
4, be cooled to 40 DEG C, add traditional Chinese medicine active site extract and essence, then drip aminomethyl propanol adjust ph to 5.5 ~ 6.5.
5, stir, be cooled to 35 DEG C, the deaeration of repetition measurement pH final vacuum, filter discharging.
Experimental example 1 extract whitening function in-vitro evaluation is tested
1, the preparation of sample
Single medicinal material extract prepared by the extract of the Chinese medicine composition prepared with embodiment 1 and comparative example 1-5 is for sample.Sample 1g is dissolved in 99g dimethyl sulfoxine, is made into the sample solution that mass fraction is 1%, test below carrying out.
2, restraint of tyrosinase vigor effect assessment test
By table 4 accurately pipette samples solution, pH value be 6.8 phosphate buffered solution (PBS) and mass fraction be 0.1% DOPA solution, abundant mixing, after hatching 5min in 30 DEG C, add the tyrosinase solution that activity is 110U/mL, 10min is hatched again at 30 DEG C, be transferred to rapidly in cuvette, survey absorbance at 475nm place.
Table 4
Reactant liquor composition 1 group 2 groups 3 groups 4 groups
Sample solution/mL 1 1
Phosphate buffered solution/mL 2 2.5 1 1.5
DOPA solution/mL 1 1 1 1 5 -->
Tyrosinase solution/mL 0.5 0.5
Cumulative volume/mL 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5
By the relative inhibition (I, be called for short suppression ratio, lower same) of formula (1) calculation sample to tryrosinase.
I=[(A1-A2)-(A3-A4)]×100%÷(A1-A2)(1)
In formula: A1, A2, A3, A4 are respectively the absorbance of 1 group ~ 4 groups of solution.
3, B16 cell test in check melanin cell
By B16 melanoma cell with 1 × 10 5the density of individual/mL is inoculated in 96 orifice plates, and every hole 90 μ L, after hatching 24 hours in CO2 incubator, every hole adds sample solution.Set up the blank group of culture medium and cell simultaneously.
Be placed in by culture plate after incubator hatches 72 hours, abandoning supernatant, PBS washing twice, then every hole adds 0.5mL trypsin digestion cell 3min, and every hole adds 2mL maintenance medium and stops digestion.After mixing, often kind of concentration is taken out 0.5mL and is made cell counting.All the other cell suspension are with 2500r/min centrifugalize 5min, and abandoning supernatant, adds NaOH solution in precipitation, and heating makes melanin dissolve, and select 490nm wavelength to measure absorbance under enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay instrument.By formula (2) calculation sample to B16 cell suppression ratio (I ').
I’=(1-A5÷P1/A6÷P2)×100%(2)
In formula: A5 is medicine hole absorbance; P1 is medicine porocyte density; A6 is control wells absorbance; P2 is control wells cell density.
4, ultra-oxygen anion free radical elimination effect evaluation test
Medicinal liquid is added by table 5.Extracting sample solution 2mL, adds 2.25mLTris-HCl buffer solution (pH8.36), and 0.25mL concentration is after 10mmoL/L pyrogallol solution, water-bath at 25 DEG C, drips 10mol/L hydrochloric acid 1, cessation reaction during 4min.Under 420nm, absorbance is surveyed with ultraviolet spectrophotometer.Clearance rate (D) is calculated according to formula (3).
D=[1-(A9-A10)÷(A7-A8)]×100%(3)
In formula: A7 is that pyrogallol issues the absorbance of being conigenous and sending out oxidation reaction generation O2-at Tris-HCl solution; A8 is the absorbance of Tris-HCl solution; A9 is the absorbance removing O2-reaction; A10 is the absorbance of medicine.
Table 5
Reaction group Tris-HCl Pyrogallol Sample solution Deionized water
F 0 2.25 mL 0.25 mL 0 mL 2 mL
F 1 2.25 mL 0.25 mL 2 mL 0 mL
F 2 2.25 mL 0 mL 2 mL 0 mL
5, uvioresistant effect assessment test
According to People's Republic of China (PRC) light industry standard QB/T2334-1997(cosmetics middle-ultraviolet lamp absorbent qualitative determination-ultraviolet spectrophotometry) test.Sample solution ethanol is diluted 10 times again, then within the scope of 280 ~ 400nm, scans every 10nm, determine the absorbance under each wavelength, and calculate mean light absorbency.
6, experimental result
The experiment of whitening and skin-protecting effect assessment is shown in Table 6.
Table 6
Experimental result shows, traditional Chinese medicine extract composition of the present invention can have restraint of tyrosinase activity and check melanin synthesis, scavenging free radicals and anti-ultraviolet function significantly, and improve significantly than the effect of single medicinal material extract, illustrate and played synergistic function between different Chinese medicine.
Experimental example 2 whitening and skin-protecting breast normal individual trial evaluation experimental
1, experimental technique
Whitening and skin-protecting breast prepared by embodiment 3 and common skin care milk prepared by comparative example 6 carry out normal individual trial evaluation respectively.Choose the age the healthy volunteer 40 (male 20, women 20) of 20 ~ 50 years old.Using method is use after clean of every day, use every day twice (morning get up after and before sleep in evening each once), left face uses the whitening and skin-protecting breast prepared by embodiment 3, and right face uses the common skin care milk prepared by comparative example 6.Experiment periods is one month, the dermal melanin of results of regular determination volunteer face, and in use carries out moisturizing degree, glossiness and the sensory evaluation of whitening degree to sample, and wherein best result is 5, is minimumly divided into 1.
2, experimental result
Accompanying drawing 1 is the comparison diagram of the dermal melanin content using whitening and skin-protecting breast and common skin care milk.Accompanying drawing 1 result shows, after the whitening and skin-protecting breast using embodiment 3 to prepare, dermal melanin content is obviously low than dermal melanin content after the common skin care milk using comparative example 6 to prepare.
Evaluation table on probation is filled according to sensory evaluation.Collect half face experiment evaluation table on probation, statistical result is in table 7.
Table 7 normal individual trial evaluation result meansigma methods
Evaluation result Comparative example 6 Embodiment 3
Moisturizing degree 3 points 4 points
Glossiness 2 points 5 points
Whitening degree 1 point 5 points
From table 7 result, after the whitening and skin-protecting breast using embodiment 3 to prepare, skin shine and whitening degree are obviously than using the good of the common skin care milk of comparative example 6 preparation
Above result shows the whitening and skin-protecting breast containing the extract of Chinese medicine composition of the present invention, has effect that good whitening is nourished, and can allow coarse dark and gloomy skin speedy recovery to health state, and smooth exquisiteness is pale moving.

Claims (2)

1. a whitening Chinese medicament compositions, is characterized in that being made up of the component of following percentage by weight: Radix Angelicae Sinensis 20 ~ 50%, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) 10 ~ 30%, Herba Lysimachiae 6 ~ 18%, Salvia japonica Thunb. 5 ~ 20%, Radix Glycyrrhizae 5 ~ 15%, the preparation method of Chinese medicine composition is: take raw material of Chinese medicine Radix Angelicae Sinensis by proportioning, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae), Herba Lysimachiae, Salvia japonica Thunb., Radix Glycyrrhizae, above-mentioned raw material of Chinese medicine is pulverized, sieve, be that 10:1 ~ 30:1 adds Extraction solvent by liquid material mass ratio, after soaking 1 ~ 2h, extract at room temperature is carried out with high pressure homogenization method machine under 50 ~ 100MPa pressure, extracting solution is after centrifugalize, by macroporous resin adsorption, ethanol with 10 ~ 95% repeatedly eluting, collect eluent, the mass ratio being evaporated to extracting solution and Chinese medicine is 1:0.5 ~ 1:10, add again and dissolve with the butanediol extracting concentrated solution equal in quality, filter, obtained Chinese medicine composition, in order to avoid dissolvent residual, described Extraction solvent adopts water, ethanol, ethanol water.
2. the application of Chinese medicine composition according to claim 1 in preparing cosmetics, is characterized in that its consumption counts 0.01 ~ 20% with mass percentage containing Chinese medicine composition according to claim 1 in cosmetics.
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