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William Bosi

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William (Will) Bosi (born 27 December 1998) is a British professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Bosi is only the second British sport climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b) graded sport climbing route (King Capella in 2021), and by 2023, was one of only a small group of climbers in the world to have completed a V17 (9A) boulder (Alphane in 2022, Burden of Dreams in 2023, and both Return of the Sleepwalker and Spots of Time in 2024).

William "Will" Bosi
Bosi in the semi-final of the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Personal information
Born (1998-12-27) December 27, 1998 (age 25)
Edinburgh, Scotland, United Kingdom[1]
EducationBroughton High School, Edinburgh[1]
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height175 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight67 kg (148 lb)
Websitewww.bandofbirds.co.uk/willbosi-athlete-page
Climbing career
Type of climber
Ape index+2cm (0.79 in)
Highest grade
Known for
  • Second Briton to climb 9b (5.15b)
  • Second Briton to climb V17 (9A)
First ascents
  • Honey Badger (V16, 2022)
  • Free at Last (9a+, 2022)
  • King Capella (9b, 2021)
  • Brandenburg (9a+, 2021)
  • La Furia de Jabalí (9a+, 2021)
Updated on 28 June 2023

Early life and education

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Bosi was born in Edinburgh to Alison and Martin Bosi. His mother is a nursery nurse from Inverleith. Both parents took him and his 3-year-old brother Alexander to an indoor climbing centre in Newhaven, Edinburgh when he was 6 years old. He attended Broughton High School, Edinburgh. By 2011, Bosi was the British Champion in the Youth Climbing Series (a competition climbing event for boys aged 11 to 13) and also the Scottish Youth Climbing Champion.[1]

Climbing career

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Sport climbing

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In 2016, Bosi came to attention when aged 17 he redpointed Steve McClure's famous British sport climbing route Rainshadow, becoming the youngest Briton to climb a 9a (5.14d) graded sport route.[2][3]

In 2020–2021, Bosi became only the second British climber in history, after Steve McClure, to climb a 9b (5.15b) grade sport route with his repeat of Adam Ondra's La Capella, and followed up by his first free ascent of King Capella (a route initially considered a possible 9b+), both of which are in Siurana in Spain.[4]

Bouldering

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In 2022, on a trip with Adam Ondra to his home crag of Moravský Kras in the Czech Republic, Bosi flashed the 8B+ (V14) boulder, Charizard (he failed on Ondra's as yet unrepeated 8C+ boulder, Terranova).[5] That year, he also created Honey Badger in the English peak district, which he graded at 8C+ (V16).[6][7]

In November 2022, Bosi became one of only a handful of boulderers in the world to have climbed a grade V17 (9A) boulder when he repeated Shawn Raboutou's Alphane, which he felt was easier than his own 8C+ graded route, Honey Badger.[8] In April 2023, he made the first repeat of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, considered the world's first-ever V17 (9A) boulder, and which at the time of Bosi's repeat was still considered the world's hardest boulder.[9][10][11] In February 2024, Bosi made the first repeat of Daniel Woods' Return of the Sleepwalker, which he felt was easier than Burden of Dreams, but harder than Alphane, with Bosi stating that Woods' route was definitely at a V17 grade.[12]

Competition climbing

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Bosi at the Munich leg of the 2017 Bouldering World Cup

Bosi has represented Britain in competition lead climbing, in both youth and adult formats, and in 2018 became the first Briton to reach an International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) final in 30 years, where he finished fifth at the IFSC World Cup in Chamonix; he finished fourth twice during the 2019 IFSC World Cup.[13][14] Bosi narrowly missed out on a place in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, despite trying to learn speed climbing, a required discipline in Olympic competition climbing.[15]

In 2021, Bosi announced that he was taking a break from competition climbing to focus on outdoor sport climbing and bouldering.[5]

Notable ascents

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Redpointed routes

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9b (5.15b):

  • La Capella – Siurana (ESP) – February, 2020. Third repeat of Adam Ondra's 2011 route, and the second-ever British climber to climb a 9b route (after Steve McClure with Rainman in 2017); sometimes considered closer to 9a+.[19]

9a+ (5.15a):

  • Free at Last – Dumbarton Rock (GBR) – July, 2022. First ascent. A long-standing unsolved line beside Dave Cuthbertson's famous 1983 route, Requiem (E8 6c), and Dave MacLeod's 2006 equally notable route, Rhapsody (E11 7a); Free at Last became Scotland's hardest route.[20][21]
  • Brandenburg Gate – Raven Tor (GBR) – November, 2021. First ascent. The line was regarded as a "holy grail" of British sport climbing.[22]
  • Mutation – Raven Tor (GBR) – October, 2021. First repeat of Steve McClure's ground-breaking 1998 route, which Bosi suggested was "at least" 9a+ (and possibly harder), making it one of the first-ever 9a+ sport climbing routes in history.[23][24][25]
  • First Ley – Margalef (ESP) – February, 2021. Repeat ascent of Chris Sharma's 2010 route that is popular with aspiring 9a+ climbers.[24]

9a (5.14d):

  • Rainshadow – Malham Cove (GBR) – May, 2016. Became the youngest Briton to climb at 9a when he made the fifth repeat of Steve McClure's iconic 2003 route, aged 17; Rainshadow is considered the "benchmark" for aspiring 9a sport climbers in Britain.[2][3][26]

Boulder problems

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V17 (9A):

V16 (8C+):

  • Honey Badger – Peak District, (GBR) – August, 2022. First ascent and the third British boulder to be graded at V16.[6][7]

Terranova https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwH0jE8uBQM

V15 (8C):

See also

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Wikimedia Commons has media related to William Bosi.

References

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  1. ^ a b c Newsroom Ed. (28 October 2011). "Bosi brothers are at the top of their game". The Scotsman. Retrieved 28 June 2023. {{cite web}}: |author= has generic name (help)
  2. ^ a b Climber Ed. (4 May 2016). "William Bosi talks about his ascent of Rainshadow and becoming the youngest ever Brit to do F9a". Climber Magazine. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  3. ^ a b Climbing Ed. (November 2011). "William Bosi, 17, Climbs Rainshadow (5.14d), Malham Cove". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  4. ^ a b c Climbing Ed. (29 March 2021). "British Climber Will Bosi, Just 22, Joins Ondra in Club 5.15c". Climbing. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  5. ^ a b Millar, Delaney (28 April 2022). "Scottish Climber Will Bosi Dominates Adam Ondra's Home Crag". Climbing. Retrieved 30 June 2023.
  6. ^ a b "Will Bosi Climbs First V16 in Peak District". Gripped Magazine. 13 August 2022. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  7. ^ a b "Will Bosi fearless on Honey Badger, new 8C+ boulder problem at Badger Cove, UK". PlanetMountain. 12 August 2022. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  8. ^ a b Larssen, Jens. "Alphane 9A? by Will Bosi". 8a.nu. Vertical Life. Retrieved 6 November 2022.
  9. ^ a b Goodyear, Sheena (5 June 2023). "He climbed one of the world's most difficult boulders — after practicing on a 3D model". CBC News. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  10. ^ a b Ali, Taz (5 June 2023). "British man Will Bosi completes world's toughest boulder climb after practicing on 3D-printed replica". The Independent (online). Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  11. ^ a b Koronka, Poppy (5 June 2023). "William Bosi: Rock-hard climb is conquered using a 3D printer". The Times. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  12. ^ Potter, Steven (21 February 2024). "Will Bosi Gets Second Ascent of 'Return of the Sleepwalker'—Confirms V17". Climbing. Retrieved 21 February 2024.
  13. ^ Burnside, Peter (16 July 2018). "5th for Will Bosi at Chamonix IFSC Lead World Cup". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  14. ^ "Will Bosi". DMM Wales. 2023. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  15. ^ Hope, Nicky (28 November 2019). "Tokyo 2020: Great Britain's Will Bosi seeks Olympic sport climbing place". BBC News. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  16. ^ "Will Bosi Climbs New 5.15c with King Capella". Gripped Magazine. 29 March 2021. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  17. ^ "Jakob Schubert reins in King Capella and La Capella at Siurana". PlanetMountain. 11 December 2021. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  18. ^ Burnside, Peter (29 March 2021). "Will Bosi suggests 9b+ for his first ascent of King Capella". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  19. ^ Burnside, Peter (5 April 2020). "Will Bosi becomes second Brit to climb 9b". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  20. ^ "Will Bosi is Free at Last at Dumbarton in Scotland". PlanetMountain. 6 July 2022. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  21. ^ "New 5.15a is Scotland's Hardest Route – Will Bosi Sends Free at Last". Gripped Magazine. 4 July 2022. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  22. ^ "Will Bosi finally climbs Brandenburg Gate, a longstanding project at Raven Tor, UK". PlanetMountain. 8 November 2021. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  23. ^ "Will Bosi repeats Mutation, 23 years after Steve McClure's first ascent at Raven Tor". PlanetMountain.com. 2 November 2021. Retrieved 13 January 2022.
  24. ^ a b "Will Bosi Suggests 5.15a Upgrade to Mutation After First Repeat Since 1998". Gripped.com. 2 November 2021. Retrieved 13 January 2021.
  25. ^ "Bosi makes historic second ascent of Mutation (F9a+/b?)". Climber. 2 November 2021. Retrieved 13 January 2022.
  26. ^ Sterling, Sarah (7 May 2016). "William Bosi ticks Rainshadow: youngest Brit to join club 9a". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  27. ^ Potter, Steven (21 February 2024). "Will Bosi Gets Second Ascent of 'Return of the Sleepwalker'—Confirms V17". Climbing. Retrieved 21 February 2024.
  28. ^ "Will Bosi repeats Burden of Dreams 9A in Finland!". PlanetMountain. 14 April 2023. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  29. ^ Potter, Steven (24 April 2023). "Will Bosi Sends 'Burden of Dreams' (V17)". Climbing. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  30. ^ "Will Bosi repeats Alphane, Shawn Raboutou's Chironico testpiece". PlanetMountain. 2 November 2022. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  31. ^ "Will Bosi Sends Ephyra V16". Gripped Magazine. 11 November 2022. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  32. ^ "Dreamtime and Dagger: More Swiss blocs for Will Bosi including Font 8B/+ flash". Climbr. 10 December 2022. Retrieved 12 August 2023.
  33. ^ "Will Bosi flashes The Dagger and dispatches Dreamtime in a day". PlanetMountain. 8 December 2022. Retrieved 12 August 2023.
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