Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing (lead and boulder), sport climbing, and bouldering. He is a four-time World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023) and three-time World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in lead climbing. He is a two-time Olympic bronze medalist in the combined event (2020 and 2024).
Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Nationality | Austrian | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Born | Innsbruck, Austria | December 31, 1990|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Occupation | Professional sport climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Height | 176 cm (5 ft 9 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Weight | 63 kg (139 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Website | www | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Type of climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Highest grade | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Known for |
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First ascents |
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Medal record
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Updated on August 9, 2024 |
As of 2023, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history.
In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is the only climber in the world to have redpointed a 9c (5.15d) graded sport climbing route and climbed a 9A (V17) graded bouldering problem.
Climbing career
editCompetition climbing
editSchubert started competition climbing in 2003 when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven World Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.[citation needed]
In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco.[1] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).[2]
In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.[3]
In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time.[4]
In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and hometown, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Škofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering, and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.[citation needed]
Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo,[5] where he won the bronze medal in the combined event.[6]
Schubert won the lead event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, becoming the oldest world champion in the sport.[7] He followed that up by winning the combined event, which qualified him to compete in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.[8]
He won a bronze medal in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.[9]
Rock climbing
editIn 2023, Schubert became the only person in the world to have climbed the top grade in both bouldering and sport climbing.[10]
Rankings
editClimbing World Cup
editDiscipline[11] | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 26 | 7 | 4 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 2 | 6 | 1 |
Bouldering | 60 | 65 | 19 | 3 | 2 | - | 25 | 23 | 10 | 9 | ||
Speed | - | - | - | - | - | 43 | 59 | - | - | - | - | 59 |
Combined | - | - | 4 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | - | 4 | 2 | 6 | 1 |
Climbing World Championships
editYouth[12]
Discipline | 2004 Youth B |
2005 Youth B |
2006 Youth A |
2007 Youth A |
2008 Juniors |
2009 Juniors |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 33 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
Adult[12]
Discipline | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2023 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 26 | 2 | 1 | 5 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 1 | 1 |
Bouldering | - | - | - | - | - | 10 | 2 | 27 | 12 |
Speed | - | - | - | - | - | 110 | 59 | - | - |
Combined | - | - | - | - | - | 1 | 2 | - | 1 |
Climbing European Championships
editDiscipline[12] | 2008 | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 6 | 3 | 7 | 6 | 3 |
Bouldering | - | - | 3 | 4 | - |
Speed | - | - | 35 | 27 | 31 |
Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup
editLead
editSeason[12] | Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
2004 | Youth B | 1 | 1 | ||
2005 | Youth B | 1 | 1 | ||
2006 | Youth A | 3 | 1 | 1 | 5 |
Total | 3 | 1 | 3 | 7 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
editLead
editSeason[12] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2008 | 1 | 1 | ||
2009 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2010 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 4 |
2011 | 7 | 1 | 1 | 9 |
2012 | 1 | 3 | 1 | 5 |
2013 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 5 |
2014 | 2 | 1 | 2 | 5 |
2015 | 2 | 2 | 4 | |
2016 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
2017 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
2018 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
2020 | 1 | 1 | ||
2021 | 1 | 1 | ||
2023 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2024 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 21 | 17 | 16 | 54 |
Bouldering
editSeason[12] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2011 | 1 | 1 | ||
2012 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2013 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
2018 | 1 | 1 | ||
2019 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2021 | 1 | 1 | ||
2024 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 3 | 2 | 6 | 11 |
Number of medals in the Olympics
editCombined
editSummer Olympics | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2020 | 1 | 1 | ||
2024 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 0 | 0 | 2 | 2 |
Notable ascents
editRedpointed routes
edit9c (5.15d):
- B.I.G. – Flatanger (Norway) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent and third-ever proposed at 9c.[13]
9b+ (5.15c):
- Perfecto Mundo – Margalef (ESP) – November 9, 2019 – Third ascent (first by Alexander Megos).[13]
9b (5.15b):
- The Flame - Austria (AUT) – 2023 – First ascent [14]
- Erebor – Arco (ITA) – 2022 – Repeat ascent of Stefano Ghisolfi's route.[13]
- King Capella – Siurana (ESP) – 2021 – Third ascent of William Bosi's route.[13]
- Neanderthal – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma.[13]
- El Bon Combat – Cova de I'Ocell (ESP) – December 1, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma.[13]
- Stoking the Fire – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 5, 2018 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2013).[13]
- La Planta da Shiva – Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) – January 4, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra.[13]
- Fight or flight – Oliana (ESP) – December 31, 2014 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2011).[13][15]
9a+ (5.15a)
- Es Pontàs – Mallorca (ESP) – October, 2021 – Fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's 2006 route.
- Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 9, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
- Seleccio Anal – Oliana (ESP) – January 8, 2017
- Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – January 2, 2017 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009)
- Joe Mama – Oliana (ESP) – December 27, 2016 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
- Kangroo Limb – Flatanger (NOR) – May 29, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra
- Companion of Change – Zillertal (AUT) – November 18, 2015 – First ascent
- Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – April 27, 2011 – Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)[16]
9a (5.14d):
- Kein Licht Kein Schatten – Ötztal (AUT) – November 8, 2016 – First ascent
- Kraftplatzl – Berglsteiner See (AUT) – October 15, 2016 – Second Ascent after David Lama
- Direct open your mind – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 3, 2013
- Fuck the System – Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013[17]
- Analogica Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 2, 2013[17]
- Seleccio Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2012
- Ciudad de Dios – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 24, 2012
- Martin Krpan – Misja Pec (SVN) – November 21, 2011[18]
- Hades – Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) – May 30, 2010 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008[19]
- Underground – Massone, Arco (ITA) – March 30, 2010 – First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998
8c (5.14b):
See also
editReferences
edit- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (November 28, 2011). "Puigblanque re di Spagna, insieme a Eiter, Kim e Markovic". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
- ^ climbmagazine.com, ed. (October 22, 2011). "Record 7 World Cup wins". Archived from the original on July 23, 2012. Retrieved April 15, 2012.
- ^ Franz Schiassi (September 18, 2012). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Campionati del Mondo di arrampicata sportiva 2012, tutti i risultati da Parigi". Retrieved September 18, 2012.
- ^ "Jain Kim and Jakob Schubert win the Lead World Cup 2014". PlanetMountain.com. 2014-10-28. Retrieved 2022-09-04.
- ^ "Jakob Schubert and Alexander Megos qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo". LACRUX Klettermagazin. 19 August 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
- ^ "Tokyo Olympics: Sport Climbing - Men's Combined results". BBC Sport. 2021-08-03. Retrieved 2024-08-09.
- ^ "LEAD RECORDS BROKEN BY MORI AND SCHUBERT IN BERN". August 6, 2023. Retrieved August 13, 2023.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships 2023: Jakob Schubert adds combined boulder and lead title to lead gold in Bern". August 12, 2023. Retrieved August 13, 2023.
- ^ "Sport Climbing Men's Boulder & Lead. Individual Medals and Ranking". Paris Olympics 2024.
- ^ "NEWSFLASH: Alphane, 9A, for Jakob Schubert". www.ukclimbing.com. 2023-12-21. Retrieved 2024-08-09.
- ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ a b c d e f IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Schubert's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i "Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger". PlanetMountain. 28 September 2023. Retrieved 28 September 2023.
- ^ https://www.instagram.com/jakob.schubert/p/C2aiGdIoRsc/
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (January 2, 2015). "Jakob Schubert ripete Fight or Flight 9b a Oliana in Spagna". Retrieved February 19, 2015.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (April 28, 2011). "Jakob Schubert e Gabriele Moroni scatenati". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
- ^ a b up-climbing.com, ed. (January 3, 2013). "Realizzazioni spagnole per Schubert e Midtboe". Archived from the original on April 12, 2013. Retrieved January 5, 2013.
- ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (November 27, 2011). "9a per Jakob Schubert". Archived from the original on 2011-12-26. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
- ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (June 2, 2010). "Jakob Schubert – 9a". Retrieved December 22, 2011.[permanent dead link ]
- ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (April 25, 2011). "Jakob Schubert 8c onsight". Archived from the original on 2016-03-07. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
- ^ "Instagram". www.instagram.com. Retrieved 2023-12-21.
- ^ "Jakob Schubert flashes 8B+ boulder Catalan Witness the Fitness". PlanetMountain.com. 13 January 2018. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
External links
edit- Jakob Schubert at the World Games
- Jakob Schubert at Olympics.com
- Jakob Schubert at Olympedia (archive)