Daniel Woods (born August 1, 1989) is an American professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering, and who is considered one of the most important climbers in the history of bouldering.[1] Woods has climbed over thirty boulder problems graded at or above 8C (V15).[1][2] He has also won several competition bouldering events, such as the U.S. National Bouldering Championship and some international events. In March 2021, Woods achieved the first ascent of a low start to Sleepwalker V16 (8C+) which he named Return of the Sleepwalker and proposed the grade 9A (V17), only the second-ever route in history at that grade.[1]

Daniel Woods
Woods in 2019
Personal information
Born (1989-08-01) August 1, 1989 (age 35)[1]
Richardson, Texas, U.S.[1]
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height1.70 m (5 ft 7 in)
Weight61 kg (134 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • Second-ever climber to send 9A (V17)
First ascents
  • Return of the Sleepwalker (V17, 2021)
  • The Process (V16, 2015)
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing  United States
World Cup
Gold medal – first place 2010 Vail Bouldering
Silver medal – second place 2009 Vail Bouldering
Silver medal – second place 2011 Eindhoven Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place 2008 Hall Bouldering
Updated on August 3, 2022

Early life

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Woods competing in Boulder, Colorado in 2010

Woods was born in Richardson, Texas, and was introduced to climbing through the cub scouts.[1][3] In 1997, when he was 8 years old, his family moved to Longmont, Colorado. Woods then began competing and was part of a junior climbing team coached by Justin Sjong and Jimmie Redo.[3]

Climbing career

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Rock climbing

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Woods climbing Thor's Hammer (9a+ 5.15a) in the Hanshelleren Caves, Flatanger Municipality, Norway in 2019

In 2003, Woods climbed his first bouldering problem rated 8A (V11), Fuck You Finger. The following year, at the age of 15, he made the first ascent of Echale, grading it 8B+ (V14).

On June 19, 2007, while traveling in the Chaos Canyon area of Rocky Mountain National Park, Woods made the first ascent of Jade, formerly named The Green 45 Project, a project he had worked for several years with Dave Graham.[4] He graded it 8C (V15), making it his hardest ascent at that point. The consensus for the rating of Jade is now 8B+ (V14).

In early 2008, at the age of 18, Woods moved to Innsbruck, Austria, and spent part of his time training with Kilian Fischhuber and David Lama. In May 2008, he made the first ascent of In Search of Time Lost at Magic Wood in Switzerland and graded it 8C (V15).[5]

In November 2011, Woods began filming a climbing movie called Welcome to the Hood with Paul Robinson, Guntram Jörg, and Anthony Gullsten. The filming lasted five months, during which the group climbed at some of the most famous and difficult bouldering sites in the world. The first part of the film was set in Magic Wood, Switzerland, where Woods climbed Somewhere in Between 8B+ (V14).[6]

Competition climbing

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Despite primarily focusing on hard outdoor bouldering, Daniel Woods is one of the most accomplished American male competition climbers. He won the ABS National Championship 9 times,[citation needed] the SCS National Championship,[7] and competed in many IFSC World Cup events, earning a gold medal in the Vail World Cup in 2010.[8] Woods also has the most open wins at the Hueco Tanks Rock Rodeo, his most recent having been in 2017.[9]

Woods won the American Bouldering Series national championship in 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012 and 2013[10] and the Teva Mountain Games in the bouldering category in 2006, 2007 and, 2010.

Notable ascents

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9A (V17):

  • Return of the Sleepwalker - Black Velvet Canyon (Red Rocks, USA) - 30 March 2021 - First Ascent

8C+ (V16):

  • Grand Illusion - Little Cottonwood Canyon (Utah) - June 2021 - Third ascent.
  • Off the Wagon Low - Val Bavona (Switzerland) - March 2020 - Third ascent.
  • Sleepwalker - Black Velvet Canyon (Red Rocks, USA) - 16 January 2019 - Second ascent[11]
  • Box Therapy - Rocky Mountain National Park (USA) - 31 October 2018 - First ascent
  • Creature from the Black Lagoon - Rocky Mountain National Park (USA) - 27 September 2016 - First ascent
  • The Process - Bishop (USA) - 17 January 2015 - First ascent[12]
  • Hypnotized Minds - Rocky Mountain National Park (USA) - 21 October 2010 - First ascent[12]
  • Insomniac - Lincoln Lake (USA) - 15 September 2022 - Second ascent
  • Adrenaline - Colorado (USA) - February 2024 - First Ascent

8C (V15):

Redpointed sport routes

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9a+ (5.15a):

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c d e f Clarke, Owen (March 9, 2022). "Daniel Woods, World's Most Accomplished Boulderer". Climbing. Retrieved June 26, 2022.
  2. ^ Beale, Alex. "The Hardest Boulder Problems in the World (2018 update)". www.8a.nu. 8a.nu. Retrieved January 1, 2021.
  3. ^ a b "About Daniel Woods". climbing.com. February 15, 2008. Archived from the original on October 7, 2010. Retrieved May 11, 2013.
  4. ^ "Fine Jade: Woods Bags Rocky Mountain Super-Project". climbing.com. June 21, 2007. Archived from the original on February 15, 2009. Retrieved May 11, 2013.
  5. ^ "New 8C in Magicwood". b3bouldering.com. May 9, 2008. Archived from the original on February 9, 2016. Retrieved May 11, 2013.
  6. ^ Björn Pohl (November 14, 2011). "Latest news from Swiss". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved May 11, 2013.
  7. ^ "Collegiate Climbing Series". USA Climbing. Archived from the original on December 19, 2014. Retrieved February 17, 2015.
  8. ^ "Competitions".
  9. ^ "Home". huecorodeo.com.
  10. ^ Amanda Fox (February 22, 2013). "Woods, Puccio Reigning Champions at ABS 14". climbing.org. Retrieved May 22, 2013.
  11. ^ "Sleepwalker: 8C+ for James Webb and Daniel Woods". January 22, 2019. Retrieved January 23, 2019.
  12. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa "Daniel Woods: Climbers bio, competitions and hardest ascents". November 29, 2021.
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