Wikipedia

Alexander Megos

Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a (5.14d) graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including two 9b+ (5.15c) routes (Perfecto Mundo and Bibliographie), four 9b (5.15b) routes (Fight Club, Ratstaman Vibrations, Move and The Full Journey), and several boulders with a boulder 8C (V15) rating.

Alexander Megos
Megos at the 2022 European Championships
Personal information
NationalityGerman
Born (1993-08-12) 12 August 1993 (age 31)
Erlangen, Germany
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height173 cm (5 ft 8 in)[1]
Weight57 kg (126 lb)[1]
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
First ascents
  • Fight Club (9b, 2016)
  • Perfecto Mundo (9b+, 2018)
  • Bibliographie (9b+, 2020)
  • Ratstaman Vibrations (9b, 2022)
  • The Full Journey (9b, 2022)
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing  Germany
World Championships
Silver medal – second place 2019 Hachiōji Lead
Bronze medal – third place 2018 Innsbruck Lead
Bronze medal – third place 2023 Bern Lead
World Cup
Gold medal – first place Briancon 2018 Lead
Silver medal – second place Innsbruck 2024 Lead
Silver medal – second place Innsbruck 2023 Lead
Silver medal – second place Villars 2021 Lead
Silver medal – second place Chamonix 2019 Lead
Silver medal – second place Kranj 2017 Lead
Bronze medal – third place Villars 2023 Lead
Bronze medal – third place Briancon 2022 Lead
Bronze medal – third place Villars 2019 Lead
Bronze medal – third place Chamonix 2018 Lead
Updated on 27 June 2024

Early life

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Megos started climbing at the age of six. With his father, he climbed multi-pitch routes up to 300 m at the age of ten. In 2006, Megos began training in the mountainous region of his native Bavaria, known as Franconian Switzerland, and later at the German Alpine Club's national climbing center in Erlangen-Nuremberg.[2] There, he was mentored by Patrick Matros and Ludwig Korb, who continue to train and coach Megos to this day. In 2007, Megos completed his first 8a (5.13b). Two years later, in 2009, he climbed his first 8c (5.14b) by completing Drive-by Shooting, and, in 2011, his first 9a (5.14d) by ascending San Ku Kai.

Climbing career

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Competition climbing

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Alexander Megos started competition climbing in 2006. He won two youth European Championship titles (2009 and 2010) and was the runner-up in the youth World Champion in 2011.[3] In 2009, he won every single competition in the EYC series.[4] In 2017, he was the runner-up in bouldering at the European Championship and won his first World Cup in the lead climbing discipline in Briançon, France, on 21 July 2018.[5]

In 2017, he won the silver medal for bouldering at both the European Championships in Munich and the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia. In 2018, he won a bronze medal in the lead climbing discipline at the IFSC World Cup in Chamonix, France,[6] and, one week later, won the gold medal at the Briancon World Cup.[7] Later in that year, he took the bronze medal at the World Championships in the lead competition.[8] He followed this up with a silver in lead at the 2019 World Championships. By reaching the finals of the combined event at the World Championships, he secured a qualifying spot for Tokyo's 2020 Summer Olympics.[9]

Megos has also climbed in the La Sportiva Legends competitions, where he has placed second and third on numerous occasions, celebrating in a win in 2018.[10] He currently holds the high point of Black Diamond's The Project, which is widely considered one of the world's hardest indoor routes.

Sport climbing

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On 24 March 2013, Megos ascended Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain, completing the world's first 9a onsight. In August 2013, Megos climbed The Red Project 9a (35), Australia's first 9a, and Wheelchair (9a+).[11] Due to the boulder's uncommonly long length, Megos assigned the Wheelchair a sport grading.[12]

Alexander Megos is known for speedily ascending difficult climbing routes. From mid-April to mid-June 2014, he completed nine routes, ranging from 9a+ (5.15a) to 8c+ (5.14c), in Franconian Switzerland, including Modified 9a+ (5.15a), one of the most challenging routes in the region. He also managed a redpoint attempt of the famous Action Directe within two hours, setting a record time.[13] In addition, he is the only person to complete an asccent of Biography also known as Realization 9a+ (5.15a) in Ceüse, France in a single day of effort.[14]

In June 2014, Alexander Megos, together with Roger Schäli, completed the first ascent of the 20-pitch route Fly 8c (5.14b) in Staldeflue, Switzerland, one of the most difficult big-wall climbing routes in the world.[15]

In April 2015, Megos returned to Australia, completing the first ascent of SchweinebaumeIn 9a (35). On 1 October 2015, he climbed the route Supernova in Franconian Switzerland and, by doing so, likely established the first route of grade 11+ (UIAA) (9a + / 9b French) in German-speaking countries.[16]

Megos' ascent of First Round First Minute in December 2015 marked the completion of his first 9b (5.15b).

On 9 May 2018, he secured the first ascent of the route Perfecto Mundo in Margalef, Spain, a line bolted by Chris Sharma. Megos and Sharma had tried it together several times in the days before his ascent and graded it 9b+ (5.15c).

In August 2020, Megos completed his long-term project Bibliographie in Céüse, grading it 9c (5.15d), after working on it for 60 days.[17] However, in August 2021, after Stefano Ghisolfi had matched this feat, the route was downgraded to 9b+ (5.15c), which Megos agreed was more fitting.[18]

Bouldering

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In May 2020, Megos ascended Upgrade U 8C (V15), one of the most challenging bouldering problems in his native northern Bavaria.[19][20]

Notable ascents

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Redpointed routes

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9b+ (5.15c)

9b (5.15b)

  • First Round, First Minute (31 December 2015). Third Ascent. First Ascent by Chris Sharma.[25]
  • Fight Club (14 August 2016). First Ascent.[26] Route bolted by Sonnie Trotter.
  • Mejorando Imagen (25 April 2021). Second Ascent. First Ascent by Ramón Julián. Originally graded 9a, upgraded by Megos to 9b.[27]
  • King Capella (November 2021). Second Ascent (after 9 days of effort). First Ascent by Will Bosi.[28]
  • Ratstaman Vibrations (31 July 2022). First Ascent. Route bolted by Chris Sharma.[29]
  • The Full Journey (9 October 2022). First Ascent. Route bolted by Tom Bolger.[30]
  • Sleeping Lion (4 January 2024). Second Ascent (after 8 days of effort). First Ascent by Chris Sharma. Originally graded 9b+ by Sharma, downgraded by Megos to 9b.[31][32]
  • Move (3 September 2024). Third Ascent.[33] First Ascent by Adam Ondra. Graded 9b/+ by Megos.[34]

9a+/b (5.15a/b)

  • Chan Chan Bastards
  • Supernova - First Ascent.[25]
  • La Capella[35]

9a+ (5.15a)

  • Demencia Senil - First Ascent by Chris Sharma.[36]
  • La Rambla - Megos climbed it on his second try.[37]
  • Biographie - First Ascent by Chris Sharma. Megos climbed it in one day, on his third try.[38]
  • Corona - Third Ascent.[37]
  • Classified - First Ascent.[37]
  • Modified - First Ascent.[39]
  • First Ley - Megos also sent a variation called La Ley Indignata 9a (5.14d), possible first ascent.[25]
  • Thor's Hammer - First Repeat. First Ascent by Adam Ondra.[40]
  • Geocache - First Ascent. Repeated by Adam Ondra.[41]
  • Becoming - First Ascent.[42]
  • Super Crackinette - First Ascent.[43]
  • Jaws 2 - Sent on third try.[44]

9a (5.14d)

  • Action Directe - Megos sent this route in just two hours. Action Directe was the world's first 9a, and continues to be a benchmark for the grade.[45]
  • La Sensación del Bloque - March 2017 - FA of the first South American 9a in Valle de los Condores, Chile.
  • Dreamcatcher - Fourth Ascent. Climbed in one day, other previous ascents by Chris Sharma, Sean McColl and Ben Harnden took multiple days.[46]
  • Era Vella - Second Try. Subject to much controversy about whether it is 9a(14d) or 8c+(14c).[47]
  • Speed Intégrale - Voralpsee, Switzerland in two days, 2017 [48]
  • Coup de grâce - Val Bavona, Switzerland second go, 2017 [49]
  • The Illusionist - Third Ascent. Climbed on the same day as Move (9b/+).[33][34]

Other notable ascents

  • Pure Imagination: 8c+ (5.14c). Flash.[50]
  • Fly: 8c (5.14b). Megos made the first free ascent of this twenty pitch big wall in Switzerland.[38]
  • Hubble: 8c+ (5.14c) - Megos became the first to climb both Action Directe and Hubble by sending Hubble in June 2016.[51]

Onsighted routes

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9a (5.14d)

  • Estado Critico - World's first 9a onsight.[50]
  • TCT[52]

8c+ (5.14c)

  • Victimes del Passat[36]

Boulder problems

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8C / 8C+ 

  • Wheelchair - First Ascent. Although Megos suggested a 9a+ sport climbing grade because of its length, this Wheel of Life variation is not a sport climb. It is a long boulder problem, harder than Wheel of Life, and possibly worth an 8C+ (V16) rating.[45][53]

8C (V15)

  • The Story of Two Worlds - First Ascended by Dave Graham in 2005, repeated by Megos in December 2020.[54]
  • Dreamtime - Ascended by Megos on 18 December 2020.[55]
  • Upgrade U - First Ascent May 2020, rated 8C and accepted as the hardest boulder problem in the Frankenjura.[56]
  • Half Life - Second ascent April 2020, Frankenjura, Megos confirmed as 8C
  • The Finnish Line - Summer 2017 - Second ascent of hard testpiece established by Nalle Hukkataival in Rocklands, South Africa. The grade is still controversial, but consensus seems to grow on 8C (V15).[57]
  • Wheel of Life: - First Ascent by Dai Koyamada. Megos suggested a sport climbing grade of 9a (5.14d), but this is not a sport climb. It is a long boulder problem, rated 8C.[53]
  • Lucid Dreaming - Third Ascent of Paul Robinson's boulder, originally graded 8C+ (V16).[25]

8B+ (V14)

  • Never Ending Story[38]
  • Bad Boys for Life - First Ascent.[38]
  • Montecore:[58]
  • Riot Act[58]
  • Double Demerit - First Repeat.[59]
  • Sky[60]
  • Trainspotting - First Ascent.[61]

Rankings

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Climbing World Cup

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Discipline 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021 2022 2023
Lead 55 37 35 - - - - - 22 6 7 10 14 2
Bouldering - - - 73 - - - - 28 55 19 9 22 33
Speed - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Combined - - - - - - - - 38

[62]

Climbing World Championships

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Megos in the 2018 World Championships lead finals

Youth[63]

Discipline 2009
Youth A 		2010
Youth A
Lead 8 2

Adult[63]

Discipline 2018 2019 2023
Lead 3 2 3
Bouldering 25 25 17
Speed 109 75 -
Combined 11 13

Climbing European Championships

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Discipline 2010 2017
Lead 23 -
Bouldering - 2
Speed - -

[63]

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

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Lead

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Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2017 1 1
2018 1 1 2
2019 1 1 2
2021 1 1
2022 1 1
2023 1 1 2
2024 1 1
Total 1 5 4 10

[63]

Personal life

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Megos has been vegan since the beginning of 2021.[64]

Megos and his family have provided housing, via their properties in Erlangen, to Ukrainian refugees, saying the refugees are "friends and family". He said that athletes feel too far from the Ukrainian War to believe they can be of any help, and wishes that they would use their platform to help people.[65]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b "Reddit AMA Alex Megos". Reddit.com. 5 November 2014. Archived from the original on 8 April 2015.
  2. ^ "Alexander Megos klettert in die Weltspitze". nordbayern.de (in German). Retrieved 25 September 2019.
  3. ^ "Alexander Megos". Red Bull. Retrieved 25 September 2019.
  4. ^ "Alexander Megos digital rock profile". Digitalrock.de.
  5. ^ "Alexander Megos interview after world's first 9a onsight". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 25 September 2019.
  6. ^ "Chamonix 2018 Highlights, Winners and Top Canadians". Gripped.com. 14 July 2018. Retrieved 27 October 2021.
  7. ^ "Alex Megos Wins First Lead World Cup". Gripped.com. 22 July 2018. Retrieved 27 October 2021.
  8. ^ "Results: 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships". Climbing.com. 16 September 2018. Retrieved 27 October 2021.
  9. ^ "Jakob Schubert and Alexander Megos qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo". LACRUX Klettermagazin. 19 August 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
  10. ^ "NEWS: La Sportiva Legends Only 2018". Ukclimbing.com. 3 December 2018. Retrieved 27 October 2021.
  11. ^ "VIDEO: Alexander Megos climbs Wheelchair, ~9a+". Ukclimbing.com. 2 November 2013. Retrieved 25 September 2019.
  12. ^ "Alexander Megos frees Modified 9a+ in the Frankenjura". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 25 September 2019.
  13. ^ "Alexander Megos, the Action Directe Frankenjura interview". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 25 September 2019.
  14. ^ "Q&A: Alex Megos Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Three Tries". 1 January 2016. Archived from the original on 1 January 2016. Retrieved 25 September 2019.
  15. ^ "Alexander Megos frees Fly, 8c multipitch in Switzerland's Lauterbrunnental". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 25 September 2019.
  16. ^ "Supernova (11+): Alexander Megos gelingt erste 11+ im Frankenjura! - News zu Klettern - Frankenjura.com". Frankenjura.com. Retrieved 25 September 2019.
  17. ^ a b "Alexander Megos on Instagram: "Sometimes the odds are against you, but it doesn't mean you don't have a chance. Yesterday evening, on my last day of the trip, it…"". Instagram. Archived from the original on 25 December 2021. Retrieved 6 August 2020.
  18. ^ "Alex Megos Agrees With Bibliographie Downgrade to 5.15c". Gripped. 30 August 2021. Retrieved 19 July 2022.
  19. ^ Magazine, Lacrux (15 July 2020). "Alexander Megos begeht den schwersten Boulder im Frankenjura: Upgrade U (8c)". LACRUX Klettermagazin (in German). Retrieved 15 July 2020.
  20. ^ "Markus Windisch gelang die erste Wiederholung von Gossip (8C)". 3 June 2009. Retrieved 2 December 2021.
  21. ^ "Alex Megos Sends Multi-Year Project Bibliographie, Suggests 5.15d". Climbing.com. 6 August 2020. Retrieved 27 October 2021.
  22. ^ Clarke, Owen (8 September 2021). "Stefano Ghisolfi on Climbing the World's Hardest Grade… and Then Downgrading It". Climbing. Retrieved 11 July 2024.
  23. ^ "Alexander Megos on Instagram: "I'm incredibly relieved... Clipping the anchor of "Perfecto Mundo", my first 9b+"". Instagram.com. Archived from the original on 25 December 2021. Retrieved 9 May 2018.
  24. ^ Pardy, Aaron (22 August 2024). "Alex Megos Sends Adam Ondra's Change 5.15c". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 8 September 2024.
  25. ^ a b c d "Alex Megos Sends First Round, First Minute (5.15b) and More". Rockandice.com. Retrieved 7 May 2016.
  26. ^ "Alex Megos Establishes Fightclub – Canada's First 5.15". Rockandice.com. 16 August 2016. Retrieved 18 August 2016.
  27. ^ "Alexander Megos repeats Margalef's Mejorando Imagen and proposes 9b". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 12 November 2022.
  28. ^ "Alexander Megos repeats King Capella at Siurana in Spain". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 12 November 2022.
  29. ^ "Alex Megos frees Ratstaman Vibrations, cool Sharma project at Céüse". planetmountain.com. 1 August 2022. Retrieved 22 August 2022.
  30. ^ "Alex Megos completes The Full Journey (9b) at Margalef". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 12 November 2022.
  31. ^ Deuto, Christopher (18 January 2024). "Alex Megos on the Second Ascent of Chris Sharma's 'Sleeping Lion'". Climbing. Retrieved 11 July 2024.
  32. ^ Pardy, Aaron (24 January 2024). "Alex Megos' Second Ascent of Sharma's Sleeping Lion". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 11 July 2024.
  33. ^ a b Deuto, Christopher (4 September 2024). "After Olympic Disappointment, Alex Megos Reminds Us Why He's One of the World's Best Rock Climbers". Climbing. Retrieved 8 September 2024.
  34. ^ a b "Instagram". www.instagram.com. Retrieved 8 September 2024.
  35. ^ "Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Dec 14, 2021". Instagram. Archived from the original on 25 December 2021. Retrieved 14 December 2021.
  36. ^ a b "Alex Megos: Super-Fast 5.15a". Climbing.com. 30 November 2015. Retrieved 5 May 2016.
  37. ^ a b c "Alex Megos: Corona (5.15a) - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". Dpmclimbing.com. Archived from the original on 30 May 2016. Retrieved 7 May 2016.
  38. ^ a b c d "Alexander Megos - Pro Team - DMM Climbing Equipmen-". Dmmclimbing.com. Retrieved 7 May 2016.
  39. ^ "Video: Alex Megos Climbs Modified (5.15a) in Frankenjura". Climbing.com. 9 November 2015. Retrieved 5 May 2016.
  40. ^ "Alex Megos Repeats Thor's Hammer (5.15a), Flatanger Cave". Rockandice.com. Archived from the original on 25 May 2016. Retrieved 7 May 2016.
  41. ^ "Adam Ondra Repeats Geocache (9a+/5.15a) in a Day". Rockandice.com. Archived from the original on 29 May 2016. Retrieved 2 June 2016.
  42. ^ "Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 24, 2016 at 6:06am UTC". Instagram. Archived from the original on 25 December 2021. Retrieved 24 October 2016.
  43. ^ "Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 17, 2016 at 9:02pm UTC". Instagram. Archived from the original on 25 December 2021. Retrieved 13 November 2016.
  44. ^ "Instagram post by Alexander Megos • Oct 11, 2017 at 12:44am UTC". Instagram. Archived from the original on 25 December 2021. Retrieved 11 October 2017.
  45. ^ a b "Alex Megos Sends Action Directe (5.14d) in Two Hours - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". Dpmclimbing.com. Archived from the original on 30 May 2016. Retrieved 7 May 2016.
  46. ^ "Alex Megos Sends Dreamcatcher 5.14d for Fourth Ascent". Gripped.com. Retrieved 27 August 2016.
  47. ^ "Alexander Megos on Instagram: "Wooop! The ultra classic "Era Vella" - went down yesterday on my second try. I checked it out first and then straight away did it. This one…"". Instagram. Archived from the original on 25 December 2021. Retrieved 18 April 2018.
  48. ^ "Watch Alexander Megos climb 10 of Switzerland's hardest routes in 6 days". Redbull.com. Retrieved 27 October 2021.
  49. ^ "Coup de Grace". Escalade9.wifeo.com. Retrieved 27 October 2021.
  50. ^ a b "World's First 9a Onsight? - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". Dpmclimbing.com. Archived from the original on 29 March 2013. Retrieved 7 May 2016.
  51. ^ Pohl, Bjorn (1 June 2016). "UK Climbing". Ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2 June 2016.
  52. ^ "TCT, second 9a onsight by Alex Megos". ukclimbing.com. 21 May 2017. Retrieved 8 November 2017.
  53. ^ a b "Alex Megos Establishes 5.15a Link-Up in Australia's Grampians". Rockandice.com. Archived from the original on 1 January 2014. Retrieved 7 May 2016.
  54. ^ "Alex Megos Sends Story of Two Worlds V15". Gripped Magazine. 26 December 2020. Retrieved 30 December 2020.
  55. ^ "Alex Megos Sends Dreamtime V15 in Switzerland". Gripped Magazine. 20 December 2020. Retrieved 30 December 2020.
  56. ^ Magazine, Climbing (9 July 2020). "Watch Alex Megos Make the First Ascent of Upgrade U (V15)". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 15 July 2020.
  57. ^ "Daniel Woods sends Finnish line says v15". gripped.com. 2 July 2018. Retrieved 7 September 2018.
  58. ^ a b "Alex Megos on a V14 - Gripped Magazine". Gripped Magazine. 26 November 2014. Retrieved 7 May 2016.
  59. ^ "Alex Megos Makes Fast Work Of 'Double Demerit' (V14/8B+) | EpicTV". Epictv.com. Retrieved 7 May 2016.
  60. ^ "Videos: Alex Megos Climbing in Ceuse and Rocklands - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". Dpmclimbing.com. Archived from the original on 15 June 2015. Retrieved 7 May 2016.
  61. ^ "Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 30, 2016 at 5:46pm UTC". Instagram. Archived from the original on 25 December 2021. Retrieved 31 October 2016.
  62. ^ IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 20 August 2019.
  63. ^ a b c d IFSC, ed. (13 July 2021). "Megos's profile and rankings". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 13 July 2021.
  64. ^ "Megos and the Environmental Catastrophe". 8a.nu. 27 September 2024. Retrieved 27 September 2024.
  65. ^ Barronian, Abigail (31 March 2022). "Professional Climber Alex Megos Is Housing 15 Ukrainian Refugees". Outside Online. Retrieved 14 November 2024.
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