France.

This chapter discusses the grapes, regulations, and wine styles of the six major wine regions of France, lists the subdistricts (the appellations) of each major region, and describes the climate and topographic differences among regions. The chapter also defines the concept of terroir and explains why it is crucial to understanding and appreciating French wines. Additionally, the chapter covers the French system of Appellation Controlee laws, as well as the heritage, history, and philosophy behind the evolution of this system, what it accomplishes, and how it may affect the future of French wines in the international marketplace.

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INTRODUCTION

In addition to producing great wines in nearly every category, France is also the original home to most of the "noble varietals," the grapes from which the best wines are made. Of the 12 most important noble varietals, 8 are indigenous to France: Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc for whites, and Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Syrah for reds. Although Riesling is also indigenous to Germany, and the Sangiovese and Nebbiolo of Italy and the Tempranillo of Spain are also counted among the noble varietals, the majority of important grape varietals originated in France.

The French also demonstrated important initiative in the creation of a countrywide system of laws to control viticultural practices and the production of wines, along with a federal-level government agency to oversee the wine trade and enforce the regulations. One of the primary purposes of these laws is to protect the geographic names of the places of origin of specific wines. This protection is very important as French wines (like most European wines) are named for the region where the grapes were grown. This geographic designation of origin is called the appellation (ap-puh-LAY-shuhn) of the wine.

The French are passionate about wine, and are understandably proud of the wines they produce. As proof that the French believe in the quality of their wines, one need look at just one statistic: Only 3 percent of all wine consumed in France is imported (Osborne, 2004). Although great wine is being produced elsewhere in the world, to truly understand wine, one must understand French wines.

FRENCH WINE--HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE

The history of wine production in France is inextricably intertwined with the politics and sociological development of the country. The first wine grapes were planted in the southern part of what is now France by Greek traders as far back as 600 BC. As the Romans spread into Gaul (as France was then called) and colonized the country, the planting of grapes and the production of wine increased. By the time of the birth of Christ the exporting of wine from Gaul to Rome was well established. When the Roman Empire began to crumble in the second century AD, the expansion of viticulture ceased, although wine continued to be produced, often by the monasteries and abbeys of the Christian Church that had been established in Gaul by the Romans. Barbarians from the north invaded Gaul and caused the collapse of the Roman Empire by AD 400. During the Middle Ages, the period from the fall of the Roman Empire to the Renaissance in AD 1450, it was the Christian Church that kept viticulture and enology alive in Gaul and elsewhere in Europe.

Charlemagne brought stability to Gaul during his reign which began in AD 768. He introduced the first laws on wine production. Although he was based in the north of Gaul, in the Champagne region, his influence was felt as far south as the Mediterranean. Charlemagne and his successors encouraged the export of wine (Figure 6.1).

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In 1152 Eleanor of Aquitaine married Henri of Anjou. An important trade alliance was established when Henri ascended the English throne as King Henry II. The combination of land owned by this couple and the taxes they collected from their domains on either side of the Channel allowed active exchange of wine and other goods. English entrepreneurs came to France, especially to Bordeaux, and played a crucial role in building a long-lasting English appreciation of the red wines of this region.

In subsequent centuries, the Dutch played an increasing role in the shipment of Bordeaux wines to other northern ports, like Amsterdam. The production of wine in the Bordeaux region increased considerably over the next 200 years. In other sections of France, wine production also grew, as did the influence of the Christian Church. As the Church acquired land, often in the form of gifts from wealthy aristocrats, the importance of the monasteries as winemaking centers increased. The monks and priests had the time and resources to develop better vineyards and to perfect winemaking procedures. They also had the ability to record their successes (and failures), thus helping other vintners learn the art of winemaking. Wine was one of France's most important exports during the Middle Ages.

After the French Revolution (1789-1791) and the rise of Napoleon, the Church and the aristocracy lost a great deal of their power. Land was taken by the government and given to the farmers. Large landholdings that did remain with wealthy families became fragmented over time as the Napoleonic Code did away with the medieval concept of primogeniture; that is, the practice of a rich man leaving all his holdings to his oldest son. Now all children of a landowner, including daughters, inherited equal amounts. Fortunately, the change in land ownership patterns did not adversely affect the quality or the popularity of French wines. The production and exporting of French wines, especially those of Bordeaux, continued to increase until the introduction of phylloxera to the region in the late 1800s. This insect attaches itself to the roots of a vine and literally sucks the life out of it, eventually causing the vine to die. As discussed in Chapter 1, the epidemic spread throughout the vineyards of Europe before it was eventually halted when phylloxera-resistant rootstocks from North America were grafted to the classic varietals.

APPELLATION CONTROLEE LAWS

As French wine production recovered from the outbreak of phylloxera, a new, human-made problem arose: fraud. As certain French place-names acquired panache, the demand in the international marketplace for the products of that region naturally increased. If, as demand increases, the supply remains constant, the natural economic tendency is for price to rise. When the price for a certain wine rose, some wine producers and merchants could not resist the temptation to increase the supply through deception. Unscrupulous producers simply attached that region's name to their bottles in order to get a higher price. Or producers within a famous region would expand their salable inventory by buying grapes grown outside the region, blend them with their legitimate crop, and label the whole batch by the regional name.

The need for government intervention to protect the authenticity of geographic names of origin became evident as early as the late 1890s. Fraud became so widespread in France that some place-names on bottles became essentially meaningless. The problem was particularly evident in the Champagne region. It has been estimated that by 1911, the Champagne houses were selling at least 11 million more bottles of wine than their region's vineyards could possibly have produced (Kramer, 1989). This blatant fraud caused the Champagne region to explode into violence that year. The grape growers rioted to protest the practice of the large Champagne producers buying grapes outside the region to meet the ever-expanding demand for their product. Angry grape growers rampaged through the street, broke into warehouses, and destroyed hundreds of cases of wine. The country was so shocked by the violence and waste that the government immediately passed legislation defining the boundaries of the Champagne region and decreed that the valuable name "Champagne" on a label could be used only if all grapes used in the production of that batch were indeed grown inside those boundaries. This was the first step toward a system that guarantees the authenticity of specific geographic locations.

At this point it would be beneficial to take a close look at the concept of terroir. The full term in French is gout de terroir, which translates literally as "taste of the soil" (see Chapter 2). However, in the context of wines, the definition of terroir is the unique and distinctive character a specific wine exhibits due to the fact that it was grown in a specific vineyard. The French place enormous importance on the vineyard, the site where grapes are grown. It is the specific location, with its unique soil, as well as the mineral content and drainage capacity of that soil, along with the location's unique microclimate, that is the primary influence on the quality of the grapes. As discussed in Chapter 2, the term terroir encompasses the entire physical environment in which the grapes are grown. What the French care about more than anything else in their wine is that it reflect the terroir of its region, that it be typical of that region, and that it be authentic.

The importance of protecting the authenticity of wines being labeled with any of the famous wine regions was not lost on the French government, but before the work that began in Champagne could proceed to other regions and a nationwide system of legislation could be created, the First World War intervened.

After the war, in 1923, a revolution took place in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape region of the southern Rhone Valley. This incident was similar to, but more orderly than, the uprising in Champagne in 1911. Chateauneuf-du-Pape was famous for its red wine and for its memorable name with a quaint story behind it. The name came about when Bertrand the Goth was elected Pope Clement V in 1305. At the time, the relationship between the king of France and the papacy in Rome was badly strained, and Italy was in political turmoil. Clement chose to stay in France, and established his papal court in Avignon, an ancient city on the Rhone River. His successor, Pope John XXII, improved the papal finances sufficiently to build himself a summer palace outside the city, on the foundations of an old castle (Figure 6.2). This palace became known as Chateauneuf-du-Pape, "the new castle of the Pope." Of course, the old castle's vineyards came with the property and Pope John made sure these vines were well tended so that he could produce his own wines. Thus began the Chateauneuf-duPape wine-producing region.

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By the 1920s the demand for the red wines of this historic region was very high. Fraud in the form of inflated production numbers had been going on for years, and now became widespread throughout the region. A group of producers, under the expert guidance of Baron LeRoy of Chateau Fortia, set out to define their own boundaries and to set prescriptions on which grapes could be used in wine to be labeled as Chateauneuf-du-Pape. They decreed what viticultural practices were to be allowed and spelled out specific techniques that were banned. The vintners also set out strict standards for minimum ripeness of grapes at harvest, minimum alcohol level in wines, and other factors that are critical to quality and authenticity. The system devised by this dedicated group of Chateauneuf-du-Pape vintners eventually became the model for the national system of quality control laws.

In other regions, especially Burgundy, trouble in the form of fraud and blackballing of recalcitrant growers continued for many more years. Most of the wrongdoing was at the hands of negociants. A negociant (nay-goh-SYAHN), is a merchant who acts as a middleman between grape growers, producers, and shippers of wine. Due to the Great Depression, demand for wine was down severely, and many growers could not afford to protest against negociants who bought cheaper grapes from outside areas and then sold the wine as something far more expensive than its quality merited. Authenticity and quality took a serious step backward in Burgundy and other premier wine regions of France.

Finally, in 1935, the French government passed legislation creating the Institut National des Appellations d'Origine des Vins et Eaux-de-Vie (INAO) under the Ministry of Agriculture. The charge given to the INAO was to work with local growers, to establish legally defined appellation boundaries, along with a codification of grape-growing and winemaking practices appropriate to each area. The system has continued to evolve and is continually under review.

All wine regions of France are classified into one of four levels of quality. Wine coming from each region also carries that classification. The four levels are, in descending order of quality, Appellation d'Origine Controlee (AOC) (ah-pehl-lah-SYAWN daw-ree-JEEN kawn-traw-LAY), higher-quality wines from one of the better limited areas of production; vin delimite de qualite superieure (VDQS) (van deh-lee-meeTAY duh kah-lee-TAY soo-pehr-YUR), quality wines from a limited area; vin de pays (van doo pay-YEE), country

wine; and vin de table (van deu TAH-bl), table wine.

Appellation d'Origine Controlee (AOC)

To carry the name of an AOC region, a wine must meet very specific criteria:

* The wine must be made 100 percent from grapes approved for that appellation.

* The grapes must have all been grown within a limited zone or area of production. In general, the smaller that geographic designation, the better and more distinctive the wine. Some AOC wines attain even higher recognition of quality if the vineyard or estate where the grapes were grown is further rated by the authorities as being a particularly impressive location. Rated vineyards are usually designated as grand cru or premier cru or some comparable term indicating high quality.

* The grapes must have been picked at the minimal level of sugar, and reach the minimal alcohol level, specified for that appellation.

* The amount of grapes harvested must not exceed a certain amount per hectare.

In general, the smaller or more specific the area, the smaller the yield allowed.

If all the vigor of the vine goes into fewer bunches, those bunches will have more concentrated flavors.

* The methods used in the vineyard and in the winery must conform to the regulations of the region.

* The wine must be bottled in the same region as the appellation.

* The wine must pass a tasting test by the local branch of the INAO. What the tasters are judging is not the quality of the wine so much as its terroir, that is, they are determining if the wine reflects the character of the appellation.

Presently almost one-half of the wine produced in France is designated as AOC. According to many members of the wine trade in France, 48 percent is too large a percentage to label as the country's "greatest wines." They also say that the fact that there are 472 regions now carrying the AOC designation reduces the impact of being so designated. However, it is unlikely that the number of AOCs will be reduced as there is no mechanism that would allow a region to be declassified.

Vin Delimite de Qualite Superieure (VDQS)

The VDQS designation was begun in 1949. These wines are also produced according to INAO guidelines, and producers are supervised by the local bureau. However, standards are not as strict nor as numerous as at the AOC level. Growers and producers in these regions often aspire to have their area elevated to AOC status. At this time, less than 1 percent of French wines are designated VDQS.

Vin de Pays

Higher yields and a higher percentage of nonindigenous grapes are allowed at this level. Since 1979, wines at this level have been permitted to be labeled by varietal (although region of production must also be listed). Vins de pays, most of which come from the south of France, differ considerably in quality, style, and price.

Vin de pays regions can fall within three different types.

1. Regional. There are six of these. They are very large, covering wide swaths of land with many different soil types and microclimates.

2. Departmental. This covers an entire departement, the French equivalent of an American state or Canadian province.

3. Zonal. This is the smallest type of region, often just one district or even one town. There are over 100 zonal vin de pays regions.

The number of vin de pays regions continues to increase as producers realize these wines are easier to sell in the New World due to inclusion of varietal on the label. As of 2006, 34 percent of all French wine was designated vin de pays. With the success of marketing these wines into the United States, that percentage may well increase.

Vin de Table or Vin Ordinaire

This type of wine can be made from grapes grown anywhere in France. There are no limits on yield and no specifications on varietals. The European Commission is putting pressure on France to decrease the amount of acreage dedicated to this level of wine, as the glut of bulk wine and wine grapes causes prices to fall. In the last few years there has been a reduction in the amount of vin de table produced. It now accounts for only 17 percent of French wine production.

Recent Changes

In an effort to make their system of classifying and naming wines more uniform with other European countries, and easier for all consumers to comprehend, French lawmakers recently made some changes in terminology within their wine regulations. Passed in 2009, the new laws changed Appellation d'Origine Controlee (controlled place of origin) or AOC to Appellation d'Origin Protegee (protected place of origin) or AOP. The next level of quality, VDQS, will continue to be labeled as such. Both these levels of quality will also carry the European Union designation of Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region (QWPSR).

The two uncontrolled and unclassified levels of wine in France were also changed somewhat. V in de pays, or country wine, will now be labeled as Indication Geographique Protegee or IGP. At this level, producers can continue to show varietal, vintage, and the specified growing region. The lowest level of everyday wine, that is, the wine that can be produced from grapes grown anywhere in France, will continue to be labeled as vin de table. However, there is a strong movement to change that term to vin de France. At this level the producer is still forbidden to show a geographic designation, but will now be allowed to show a vintage and a grape varietal.

All changes in terminology must be implemented by the 2010 vintage.

Weaknesses of the System

The French system of wine laws is one of the most comprehensive and strictest in the world. These laws have done a great deal to guarantee the authenticity of wine names, and thus, to protect the prestige of the finest wine appellations. The purpose of the laws is not to guarantee quality. The government feels that that is up to individual producers, and that the open market will determine a wine's success or failure. Rather, what the wine laws are intended to do is to ensure that each wine carrying a region's name will be typical of that region. This way the consumer will know the essential style and character of the wine when purchasing it. In meeting this objective the wine control laws of France are successful. Moreover, the system does rate regions (the highest rating being AOP, formerly AOC), and also rates some of the highest-quality locations within AOC regions. These ratings also assist the consumer in making purchasing decisions.

However, despite its successes and strengths, the system does have its weaknesses, the worst being that in some of its applications the system of laws protects the grower and producer more than it does the consumer. Changes advocated by experts, including Clive Coates, a leading authority on French wines, include adding consumer representation to the local INAO commissions. In other words, each tasting panel and regulatory body should have an objective observer, with a vote, who has no direct involvement with any facet of the wine trade, but will speak simply as a consumer, for consumers.

The tasting and analysis of AOC and VDQS wines should be done with an eye to quality, not just to typicality. True, the open market will eventually eliminate low-quality wines that are not worth the price being asked, but it seems the authorities should step in before consumers have wasted money on a low-quality wine.

Labeling laws could also be improved. The changes of 2009 were intended to make French labels less confusing, especially for non-French consumers. However, the changes do not seem likely to accomplish that objective. Moreover, from a marketing viewpoint, the French authorities and wine producers should expand the use of explanatory back labels. U.S. consumers like to have helpful information on the style of the wine in the bottle, how to serve that wine, what grapes it was made from, and so forth. Explanatory labels have greatly helped in the sales of Australian and Californian wines. The French should follow suit.

WINE REGIONS OF FRANCE

The major wine regions covered in this chapter are Bordeaux, Burgundy, Cotes du Rhone, Champagne, Alsace, and the Loire Valley. These six AOC regions account for less than 20 percent of France's total wine production, but their wines are the country's most famous and most impressive wines. We will also look at some of the promising regions in the South of France.

Bordeaux

Bordeaux is quite possibly the world's most famous wine region, and with good reason. Some of the world's best wines hail from this corner of southwestern France. Bordeaux is the second largest wine region in France, and one of the largest in the world, with 290,000 acres (116,160 hectares) under vine, producing nearly one-quarter of the country's AOC production and approximately 2 percent of the total world wine production.

Not only is Bordeaux one of the world's largest wine-producing regions, it is also one of the most diverse. Annual production is over 700 million bottles of wine. Bordeaux produces fine wine in three major categories--red table wine, dry white table wine, and excellent dessert wine.

The city of Bordeaux, eighth largest in France and for centuries an important port, is the capital of the departement of Gironde, the largest of France's 95 departements. Bordeaux is a region of large, self-sufficient estates in which the vineyards, the winemaking facilities, and often the owner's house are all under one ownership and located in close proximity. Many of these estates have been under the same ownership for centuries. This uninterrupted proprietorship has allowed development of high-quality vineyards, confident winemaking skills, and a pride in name, heritage, and product. There is a distinguishable style for each major estate that stays the same year after year.

History

Although wine has been made in Bordeaux for centuries, it was not until the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries that many of the great estates developed. Prior to that time, a large quantity of wine was exported, but much of it was not of high quality. After the marriage in 1152 of Eleanor of Aquitaine the planting of vineyards in Bordeaux expanded. The extent of trade with England also expanded enormously when Eleanor's husband ascended the throne of England. However, most of the vineyards were not in the Medoc, which was much too swampy to be useful for growing grapes. The grapes were grown further inland, in the Dordogne region.

After the English were expelled from Gascony in 1453, the French kings were wise enough not to disrupt the Bordeaux wine trade. The privileges and favors granted under the English monarchy to Bordeaux wine producers and merchants remained in place. Trade with England continued, and business with the Dutch expanded.

The quality of wine from this area took a major step forward in the seventeenth century due to the ingenuity of Dutch entrepreneurs who had become increasingly involved in the exporting of wine from Bordeaux. Long familiar with marshy lowlands, the Dutch businessmen brought in engineers from their homeland who were able to drain the marshes of the Medoc peninsula. This process exposed gentle hills of very gravelly soil, perfect for vinifera vines. Many of Bordeaux's great estates are now located in the Medoc.

As the wine trade grew, a new social class emerged and became the new aristocracy. The merchants who attained success in trading and exporting wine began to purchase land and build chateaux. This moneyed class replaced the old nobility. The merchant families invested resources into improving their vineyards. After the French Revolution, the top properties remained largely intact. These estates became the great, highly rated estates of modern Bordeaux.

As in other regions of France and Europe, production of wine in Bordeaux was set back by the infestation of phylloxera in the late nineteenth century. By 1869, land under viticulture in Bordeaux had decreased by over a third, with many more hectares dying each year. At a conference called in the city of Bordeaux in 1881 to study the problem of phylloxera, the Bordelais vintners agreed to accept the proposed solution of grafting their vines onto American rootstock.

The process of replanting vineyards proceeded slowly, partly due to a fear on the part of Bordeaux landowners that American rootstock would adversely affect the flavor of their wines, and partly due to an infection of the vineyards by downy mildew, a disease that primarily affects the leaves of the plant. This scourge was quickly controlled by the spraying of copper sulfate solution. By the early twentieth century, the vineyards of Bordeaux were well on their way to recovery.

In the first half of the twentieth century, the tribulations of the Bordeaux wine region, as was true throughout France, were not at the hands of Mother Nature, as in the previous half-century. Rather, the ensuing years saw an unprecedented string of human-caused disasters: The First World War, the Great Depression, Prohibition in the United States, and, of course, the Second World War. The production of wine fell drastically during World War II and the German occupation, partly due to lack of workers, and partly due to German forces seizing supplies of wine. Many Bordeaux producers used ingenious methods to hide their wine from the Nazis. Fortunately, most of the German occupying forces had the foresight to realize it was in the long-term best interest of Germany to allow the Bordeaux trade to remain as undisturbed as possible. When the war ended, they wanted there to be Bordeaux wine to import into Germany (Kladstrup & Kladstrup, 2001).

In the second half of the twentieth century and on into the twenty-first century, the Bordeaux wine trade grew and strengthened. A rising standard of living throughout the Western world, an increasing appreciation for fine wine as an inherent part of cuisine, and the emergence of the United States as a particularly important and sophisticated market for wine have all worked to widen the consumer base for Bordeaux's wines.

Soil and Climate--Terroir of Bordeaux

The departement of Gironde is located on the west coast of France, on the Atlantic Ocean. Exactly halfway between the North Pole and the equator, extending about 65 miles (105 km) from north to south and 80 miles (129 km) from east to west, the Gironde is spared any temperature extremes. A thick pine forest along the coast protects the vineyards from cold ocean breezes. The region contains many different soil variations that can nourish a wide variety of grape types. The soil composition is a major factor in deciding which vine shoots will be planted. The style of wine produced within each appellation of Bordeaux is a direct reflection of the proportion of each varietal planted there.

In Bordeaux, the grape varietals allowed by AOC laws are:

Red
Cabernet Sauvigno
Merlot
Cabernet Franc
Malbec
Petit Verdot
Carmenere

White
Sauvignon Blanc
Semillon
Muscadelle

From this lineup of varietals, one can easily surmise that Bordeaux wines are not single-varietal wines. Rather, winemakers are free to blend the allowed varietals together to obtain the most complex and interesting combination possible. French wines made in Mediterranean-influenced zones tend to be blends, whereas wines from cooler, continentally influenced regions tend to be single varietal.

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In Bordeaux, red varietals take up 88 percent of total acreage, and Merlot is the most widely planted red varietal (Figure 6.3). Next is Cabernet Sauvignon, followed by the third most important grape, Cabernet Franc.

For the high-quality, dry white grapes, Sauvignon Blanc is the most important. However, the most widely planted white grape is Semillon (Figure 6.4).

Within a region as large as Bordeaux, there are many different terroirs, each favorable to different varietals. In general, Merlot and Cabernet Franc are dominant on the right bank of the Gironde River, in St. Emilion and Pomerol, and Cabernet Sauvignon is dominant on the left bank of the river, in Medoc and Graves.

Classifications of Bordeaux Estates

The tendency to rank wine-producing estates has become quite prevalent in recent times. During the late nineteenth and on through the twentieth century, as the market for wine became less regional and eventually international in nature, the need arose for a simple and understandable rating for the many diverse wines available. The most famous rating, and the most enduring, was the Classification of 1855 for the wine-producing estates of the Medoc. In that year, the Exposition Universelle (the World's Fair) was to be held in Paris. To be sure that only the very best of France's great wines would be shown to visiting dignitaries, Napoleon III asked the wine merchants of Bordeaux to judge the recognized wine-producing estates of that region in a formal, quantified ranking.

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The merchants (also called brokers or negociants) took their task very seriously and proceeded to formalize the ranking that they, and the open market, had been using for Bordeaux's wines. Referring back to prices fetched over the previous century, the brokers were able to divide the top Medoc estates into five tiers of quality. Their final classification remains the official ranking to this day, with only one change. In the top tier, called first growth or premier cru (KROO), there were only three Medoc estates, Lafite, Latour, and Margaux, as well as one estate, Chateau Haut-Brion, located in the Graves region. This estate was of such a high caliber and its wines were so highly regarded that it could not be omitted from this ranking of the Medoc. In 1973, Chateau Mouton-Rothschild was elevated from second growth to first growth. An additional 56 estates from the Medoc were rated at deuxieme cru or second growth, and on down to cinquieme cru, or fifth growth. Since there were thousands of properties producing wine at the time, it is indeed impressive to be included in the Classification of 1855. These 61 chateaux continue to be regarded as among the world's very best wine-producing estates. Even today the classification done so many years ago affects the pricing for Bordeaux wines in the highly competitive international marketplace.

In 1855, the wine brokers of Bordeaux also classified the estates of Bordeaux that produced sweet white wines. They ranked these estates into two classes, again based on market demand, price, and quality of the wines. These estates are all within the appellations of Sauternes and Barsac.

The wine-producing estates of the Graves region were not officially classified until 1953 for the red wines and 1959 for the white wines. Both lists consist of one class.

The estates of St. Emilion on the right bank of the Gironde River were first classified officially in 1955. To ensure that their ranking is always current, the vintners of St. Emilion arranged for periodic reassessments of the classification, supposedly every 10 years. This plan makes sense because, although the vineyards themselves may be immutable, there are often changes in ownership or other human influences that need to be factored in. The system allows poorly managed vineyards to be demoted, while promising, well-cared-for estates can be promoted. The first modification took place in 1969 and was followed by further modifications in 1986 and again in 1996. (The update of 2006 has been nullified due to a lawsuit brought against the INAO by the owners of several estates that were downgraded in that rating.)

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The estates of the other famous appellation on the right bank, Pomerol, have never been officially classified. It is widely accepted, however, that the best wines from this region rank among the world's very best red wines.

The classifications of Bordeaux estates can be found in Appendix C.

Wine Regions of Bordeaux

The Medoc peninsula lies between the Atlantic Ocean and the muddy estuary of the Gironde River. For any wine lover, driving along the D2 highway, the Route du V in, that wends its way up the peninsula from the city of Bordeaux is a magical experience. The landscape is not particularly spectacular. It is a bit flat, and in the southern portions there are signs of urban sprawl. What is magical are the names one sees on the signs at the entranceways to the various wine-producing estates along the way. Chateau Margaux, Chateau Brane-Cantenac, Chateau Gruaud-LaRose, Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, Cos d'Estournel--these are words any wine connoisseur has seen on bottles of extraordinary wines. Some of the chateaux are simple country homes. Some are large, beautiful mansions (Gruard-LaRose). Some have an unexpectedly exotic look to them (Cos d'Estournel resembles a Chinese pagoda). There are even former priories (Chateau Meyney). What ties these diverse estates together is the quality of the great red wines made here, in Bordeaux's Medoc region (Table 6.1).

The Haut-Medoc

Most of the very best of Bordeaux's wines come from famous estates in the lower two-thirds of the Medoc peninsula. This subregion, known as the Haut-Medoc, begins in the suburbs just north of the city of Bordeaux, and continues on up the peninsula for just over 30 miles (48 km) as the crow flies. There are 29 communes (towns or villages) and a total of 25,000 acres (10,121 hectares) of vineyards within the Haut-Medoc. The greatest estates have been classified, that is, officially rated as superior. Most of these classified estates are located within the boundaries of four villages. These villages, listed from south to north, are Margaux, St. Julien, Pauillac, and St. Estephe. Each of these towns is a separate appellation.

Margaux The appellation Margaux actually encompasses five villages: Labarde, Arsac, Cantenac, Margaux, and Soussans. The soil varies considerably throughout the Margaux appellation, but it is essentially sandy gravel, quite thin and light in color.

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In the town of Margaux, the gravel lies atop a base of clay and marl. (Marl is a geological term for the conglomerate of magnesium and calcium from the shells left behind when the seawater drained out of this part of the peninsula.) In the surrounding villages, the base is sometimes gravel, sometimes iron-rich sandstone, and in some places even sand and grit. The percentage of plantings to Merlot is higher in Margaux than in the communes farther north in the Haut-Medoc.

The wines of Margaux tend to be raspberry scented, smooth and medium-bodied on the palate, and redolent of rich, ripe berry flavors. The Margaux appellation is home to 20 classified estates, more than any other appellation in Bordeaux.

St. Julien North of Margaux there is a wide stretch of land unsuitable for grapevines because the land is too marshy and flat. The next great vineyards appear as one comes into the commune of St. Julien. This is the smallest and most compact of the Haut-Medoc appellations, with only about 2,200 acres (891 hectares) under vine. The average quality of wine in this commune is very high. Eleven estates in St. Julien are classified (rated).

The soil is gravelly with some clay; the subsoil has more limestone than Margaux's. Drainage is good. The vineyards are planted primarily to Cabernet Sauvignon such as these being picked in Figure 6.5. The

wines of St. Julien have more tannic backbone and are fuller bodied than those of Margaux, but still elegant.

Pauillac This is perhaps the most famous of the communes in the Haut-Medoc. Virtually all of its 2,916 acres (1,180 hectares) of vines belong to or are controlled by its 18 classified estates. The soil throughout has the gravelly composition that permits excellent drainage, and retains the sun's heat and reflects it back on the vines in the cool evening, thus assisting ripening. Despite the relative uniformity of the top levels of soil, the subsoils differ from vineyard to vineyard, thus allowing for noticeable differences in style. In general, however, one can say that the wines of Pauillac tend toward full bodied, smooth texture, exhibit a distinctive lead pencil/ cedar aroma, and are very long lived.

Three of the very top-rated estates are in Pauillac--Lafite-Rothschild, Mouton-Rothschild, and Latour (Figure 6.6). Each of these estates has a recognizable style. For instance, Lafite-Rothschild's vineyards, in the northern part of the appellation, have a limestone base, resulting in a particularly complex bouquet and subtle flavors of currants. Mouton-Rothschild sits on a gravelly ridge looking down on the small town of Pauillac. Its vineyards have more sandstone in their base soil than Lafite, and its wines are more opulent and complex, as well as very structured. Latour, a grand old estate located in the southern reaches of Pauillac next to St. Julien, produces wines that are more supple and open. Latour's vineyards are entirely on loose, fine gravel, affording excellent drainage and heat retention. Latour's style is unmistakable, complex and full of fruit yet very elegant.

The famous trio of top-rated estates (first growths) are just the beginning of great Pauillac wines. There are many distinctive second growths also.

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St. Estephe When one goes past Latour and over a small human-made drainage ditch, the land suddenly rises to the commune of St. Estephe, perhaps the least lauded of the Haut-Medoc's appellations. There is not as high a percentage of rated estates here, but there are many fine properties that, although unrated, produce attractive, balanced, and affordable wines. The style of these wines, as well as those coming from the five rated estates located here, is more tannic than that of other communes. The vintners in St. Estephe have made an effort to produce more approachable wines by increasing percentages of the less-tannic Merlot and by allowing longer ripening and less maceration. Their endeavors are made more difficult by the presence in most of St. Estephe of a thick, dense claylike soil with inferior drainage and lower heat retention results in wines that are more acidic, and a bit awkward when compared to wines that come from finer, gravelly soils.

This is not to imply that there are no world-class wines in St. Estephe. Wine experts and consumers agree that Cos d'Estournel is indeed one of the world's great red wines. It is also the first estate one sees after crossing over into the commune from Pauillac. The strange pagoda-style chai (winemaking facility) sits on a slight ridge, overlooking Pauillac's famous Lafite-Rothschild. Because of the high percentage of Merlot (40 percent), extensive use of new oak, and very careful attention to quality, the wines of Cos are fleshy, full bodied, and complex (Figure 6.7).

The Medoc

North of Calon-Segur, the land dips down and becomes too marshy for quality vineyards. This is the beginning of the Bas-Medoc, a low-lying area viticulturally inferior to its famous neighbor, the Haut-Medoc. Much of the land is dedicated to pasture rather than grapes. The soil here is sandy and has poor drainage. There are 14 wine-producing communes within the Bas-Medoc (often called simply the Medoc) and a total of 11,600 acres (4,696 hectares) of vines, mostly planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Some very decent and affordable red wines are made in the Medoc, and the adventuresome buyer can be rewarded with some exciting finds from this region.

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Graves

Unlike the appellations Medoc and Haut-Medoc, which can be applied only to red wine, the appellation Graves applies to both reds and whites. A large area that runs about 34 miles (55 km) along the southern edge of the Garonne River (one of the two tributaries to the Gironde), Graves' 8,255 acres (3,342 hectares) of vineyards are planted 4,540 acres (1,838 hectares) to red wine grapes and 3,715 acres (1,504 hectares) to white wine grapes. Just over 45 percent of Graves' production is white wine. The dry whites of Graves can be among the most complex and food-friendly wines based on the Sauvignon Blanc grape. The Semillon that is blended in softens the acidic edge and makes the wines rounder and smoother, as well as adding complexity through complementary flavors. The wines are fragrant with appealing citrus, gooseberry, and fresh grassy aromas.

The best red wines of the Graves region are velvety smooth, full of ripe berry flavors. They are not as full as some Haut-Medoc reds and mature more quickly, primarily because of the good dose of Merlot in most Graves reds. The leading estates are planted anywhere from 25 to 40 percent Merlot and 50 to 65 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance being the three lesser varietals (Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot).

The soil of the Graves region is different than in other parts of Bordeaux. The region actually gets its name from the gravelly, pebble-strewn soil (Figure 6.8), the vestige of ancient Ice Age glaciers. This top level of gravel allows for excellent drainage and heat retention that helps the grapes ripen fully. The gravel sits on base soils of sand and clay. Pine forests to the west afford considerable protection from the ocean's cool winds, just as in the Medoc.

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The finest vineyards in Graves are in the communes of Pessac and Leognan (Figure 6.9) in the northern section. The soil here is more alluvial where sediment has been deposited by the river over the millennia. In recognition of the fact that the best reds and the best whites of Graves come from these two towns, they were granted a separate appellation in 1986, Pessac-Leognan. The appellation covers 10 communes and essentially divides Graves in two, with all the classified estates being in Pessac-Leognan. The reds from this appellation have complex bouquets of berries, earth, chocolate, and minerals. They feel full and firm, yet supple, on the palate and exhibit delicious flavors of ripe berries.

South of the busy towns of Pessac and Leognan, the region of Graves becomes more rural and even bucolic. Although not classified-growth territory, many lovely wines are produced in this part of Graves. It is possible to find some attractive, well-made reds, most of them primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, which certainly rival the bourgeois-level Medoc reds. Some of the estates in this part of the Graves make very good (and affordable) red wines.

Many properties also produce clean, fresh white wines. In this southern part of Graves, as is typical in the entire region, almost 45 percent of the wine produced is white. The predominant white grape here is Semillon, taking as much as 70 percent of the acreage at some estates. Many experts feel that Semillon, when handled correctly and allowed a judicious amount of time in oak, can be made into as good a wine as the more illustrious Sauvignon Blanc.

Sauternes

The appellation of Sauternes is restricted to sweet white wines. The appellation actually encompasses five villages--Sauternes, Bommes, Fargues, Preignac, and Barsac. Barsac is an appellation in its own right and can be sold either as Barsac or as Sauternes. The communes lie on the south bank of the Garonne River, in the southern part of Graves. The wines from Sauternes and Barsac, which by law must be botrytized, are widely regarded as the most luscious, richest dessert wines in the world. (If there is no noble rot, or pour-riture noble, and dry wines are produced, they can be sold only as Bordeaux blanc.)

The appellations of Sauternes and Barsac contain less than 5,500 acres (2,227 hectares) of vines. The grapes planted are Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle. The most widely planted is Semillon, as it is the most susceptible to noble rot. The climate here is perfect for the Botrytis fungus, as the air is very damp. The vineyards lie along the tiny Ciron River, a tributary of the Garonne. The waters of the Ciron are very cold, and when they flow into the warmer Garonne, a gentle mist rises that often lasts through the morning. The mists create the humidity the fungus needs to thrive. As the fungus grows on the grapes, it causes them to shrivel up and eventually crack. Water evaporates through the perforated skins concentrating the sugar in the berries. When harvested, these shriveled-up, fungus-infected grapes have extremely high sugar levels. The resulting wines are simply ambrosial, redolent with aromas and flavors of dried apricot and clover honey.

The most famous of the estates in the Sauternes appellation is the legendary Chateau d'Yquem. The wines from this property are so extraordinary that a special category had to be created for d'Yquem when the wines of this region were rated in 1855. As the only premier grand cru (first great growth), Chateau d'Yquem is literally in a class by itself. In the next level, premier cru, there are 11 estates, and at the deuxieme cru (second growth) level there are an additional 15 properties. A combination of successful vintages (due to good weather) and increased interest in sweet wines during the decade of the 1980s led to an infusion of badly needed capital into this region. In the subsequent decades, with their newly updated equipment and clean new barrels, the rated estates of Sauternes and Barsac (and some of the as yet unrated estates) have continued to produce lovely dessert wines, rich but balanced.

The Libournais

The Libournais, named for the simple small town of Libourne, lies across the Gironde River from the Medoc and extends along the opposite bank of the Gironde and its tributary, the Dordogne River. This wine-producing region is often referred to as the "Right Bank." This is a very old wine-producing area, steeped in tradition and history (Figure 6.10). Because this part of Bordeaux was still isolated and considered a backwater at the time of the 1855 classification, no estates from the Right Bank were ranked. Even though the Libournais may still appear sleepy and dusty, it now produces some of the best red wines of France, particularly from the two most famous villages, St. Emilion and Pomerol.

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The soils on the Right Bank are quite different from those in the Medoc, tending more toward clay and limestone. In this soil base, Merlot does very well and is, not surprisingly, the predominate grape planted. The second most widely planted varietal is Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Sauvignon, which excels in the gravelly soils of the Medoc, does not do well in the clay-limestone combination and is planted in relatively small quantities on the Right Bank.

St. Emilion Archaeological evidence shows that wine was made around the walled village of St. Emilion during Gallo-Roman times. A winemaking history stretching back two millennia makes for a great deal of tradition, and the current-day wine producers of this area demonstrate considerable pride in their heritage.

There are few grand chateaux in and around St. Emilion. Rather, this is an area of small properties and unpretentious houses and chais, once owned by peasants and bourgeois families. St. Emilion is one of the most compact and densely planted appellations in France. Close to 13,000 acres (5,263 hectares) of vineyards are packed into a relatively small appellation. The vineyards are planted primarily to Merlot, which ripens earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, and due to its softer tannins, matures more quickly in the bottle. The wines of St. Emilion, in other words, are softer and more fruit-forward than wines of the Medoc. The blackberry aromas are tempered by an appealing violet or rose-petal nuance. The best St. Emilions will age amazingly well, taking on additional complexities as they mature.

From locations in and around the town of St. Emilion come many fine wines, especially from the classified properties atop the large plateau and its slopes south of the town. Here the vineyards look down on the valley of the Dordogne below. The soil is a thin layer of limestone debris on top of a solid limestone rock base (Figure 6.11). The vineyards receive bountiful sunshine tempered by cooling breezes. Of the 13 estates presently included in St. Emilion's classification, 8 have at least part of their vineyards on this plateau and its slopes.

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The range of styles among the great classified St. Emilion estates is impressive. There are also many very fine, up and coming estates, as yet unclassified, that may well be included in future revisions. (A list of St. Emilion's classified growths is found in Appendix C.)

Pomerol Pomerol is a much smaller grape-growing region than its neighbor St. Emilion, having only 1,900 acres (769 hectares) of vines versus St. Emilion's 12,800 acres (5,182 hectares). Fully three-quarters of the vineyards in Pomerol are planted to Merlot with Cabernet Franc playing a supporting role. The soils vary throughout Pomerol, with a mixture of sand, clay, and gravel over a base of either sedimentary rock or iron. The presence of iron is one reason the wines of Pomerol are rich and concentrated, with a distinctive aroma of minerals and pencil lead. Pomerol may be the smallest of Bordeaux's important wine regions, but its wines are among the most impressive in the world. They are also among the most expensive because of the combination of superb quality and very limited production. Even though the wines of Pomerol have never been officially rated, their reputation is such that demand will always outpace supply.

The undisputed star of Pomerol is Chateau Petrus. Some experts will state unequivocally that Petrus is the best Merlot-based wine made anywhere. (V ineyards are planted 95 percent to Merlot.) A very small estate, just 28.4 acres (11.5 hectares), Petrus year after year turns out wonderfully rich, smooth, complex wines that spend more than two years in barrels. Demand for Petrus always exceeds supply.

Lesser Appellations Beyond the five regions of Bordeaux that produce its undisputed champion wines--the Haut-Medoc, Graves, Sauternes/Barsac, St. Emilion, and Pomerol--several other Appellation d'Origine Controlee districts produce admirable wines.

Entre-Deux-Mers This fairly large appellation, whose name means "between two seas," lies between the two tributaries of the Gironde, the Dordogne, and the Garonne. The appellation is restricted to dry white wine. Any red wine made from grapes grown here can be labeled only as Bordeaux Rouge. Although small quantities of lesser grapes, such as Ugni Blanc and Colombard, are allowed in Entre-Deux-Mers wines, most producers use high proportions of Sauvignon Blanc, which imparts racy citrusy flavors. This region produces large quantities of very affordable, clean, crisp white wine, light in body and straightforward in flavor. Entre-Deux-Mers whites are very food-compatible, particularly good with seafood.

Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux Stretching along the northern bank of the Garonne for 37 miles (60 km), the Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux produces mostly red wine. Due in part to the high amount of gravel in the soil, some of these reds are quite distinctive.

Lalande de Pomerol This small satellite appellation lies just north of Pomerol. The wines, understandably, are like lesser Pomerols--full of Merlot, soft, fruity, and approachable even when young. They often represent excellent value.

Bordeaux The most general appellation, Bordeaux, can be used for white or red wines made from grapes grown anywhere within the boundaries of this large region. This is also the appellation used if grapes from two or more subdistricts of Bordeaux are blended together and for wines that do not conform to the restrictions of the appellation in which the grapes were grown (e.g., red wine from Entre-Deux-Mers). Even at this regional level, the law spells out specific requirements such as minimum alcohol content and yield per acre.

Bordeaux Superieur Bordeaux Superieur has 0.5 percent higher minimum alcohol requirement than wines labeled as Bordeaux, and must have lower yields. Moreover, lesser grape varietals are excluded whereas in Bordeaux appellation whites, up to 30 percent can be from these subsidiary grapes.

The region of Bordeaux is an immensely complex and varied wine region, with a long history of wine production and a stellar reputation in the international marketplace. The producers of Bordeaux have become fiercely competitive with each other, and with wine producers the world over. However, younger Americans are not buying Bordeaux wines at the rates their forbears did. There is a movement under way now in Bordeaux to regain ground lost over the past 20 years in the United States. Consumption of Bordeaux wines have fallen from being 1.7 percent of all still wine consumed in this country to being only one-half of 1 percent of still wine (Asimov, 2010). The vintners of Bordeaux are astute enough to realize that they must maintain high levels of quality if they are to continue to hold their prominent position in the eyes of wine consumers.

Burgundy

Burgundy is much smaller than Bordeaux, produces only half as much wine, but is far more complicated. Burgundy is difficult to comprehend because of the plethora of appellations, maze of ownership patterns, and prevalence of negociant labels. The main complicating factor is the pattern of land ownership. In Bordeaux, the wine-producing estates are self-sufficient entities in that they grow their own grapes, have the winemaking facility and aging caves on the property (and in many cases, the proprietor's dwelling also), and market the wines under the name of the estate. This is not the case in Burgundy. Each village here has its own appellation, and the vineyards within that village may each have their own individual appellations. Those vineyards may have several owners. For instance, Clos Vougeot, a single 123-acre vineyard of high quality, is subdivided into 100 parcels and has 80 owners (Figure 6.12). Moreover, the winemaking facilities are located in the towns, away from the vineyards. The name under which a wine is marketed may be that of a merchant or negociant, who is in no way connected to the owner of the vineyards where the grapes were grown. The negociant buys grapes or juice from several different growers and blends them together, often to the detriment of distinctive character due to terroir.

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The effort to learn about Burgundy's wines is well worth it. This region produces elegant and complex whites based on Chardonnay and beautifully refined reds made entirely of Pinot Noir. Sadly, one must shop for Burgundies carefully for despite high prices, due to limited supply and considerable demand, the quality is not consistent. Part of the problem is the northern location of the region, where continental weather patterns can make grape growing problematic. Another important factor, at least for the reds, is that Pinot Noir is a notoriously finicky and difficult varietal to grow. There is real variation from vintage to vintage and from producer to producer. The wise consumer does his or her homework and buys Burgundies from good vintages and only from reputable producers. Fortunately, in the past few decades, more moderately priced wines of good quality are being produced in Burgundy. The trend is away from selling to negociants and toward proprietaire (proh-pree-ay-TEHR) labels, that is, wines for which the winemaking, bottling, and marketing are all done by the growers themselves.

History

The history of wine production in Burgundy precedes the Roman Empire. There is clear evidence that viticulture was well established here by the second century AD. The region survived the collapse of the Roman Empire and the invasion of barbarian tribes with little disruption to wine production. In fact, the name of the region evolved from one of those tribes. The Burgondes were a little-known people who migrated from Germany in the second half of the fifth century and stayed in the area well into the next century. At that time (approximately AD 530), they were absorbed into the Frankish kingdom after being defeated in battle (Coates, 2000).

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Over the next thousand years, Burgundy evolved first into an independent kingdom, which lasted until the early eighth century, and then an autonomous duchy, enlarging its boundaries and its power into the Middle Ages through carefully negotiated dynastic marriages. The most important single factor in the development of the region was the ever-increasing influence of the Catholic Church. In no other region of France did the Church play such an important role vis-a-vis wine production. The church's vineyard holdings in Burgundy were enormous. Much of the land owned by monasteries and parishes was acquired as gifts from knights of the aristocracy as they left to fight in the Crusades. The knights' hope was that the monks and priests would pray for their souls should they die in battle far from home.

During the Middle Ages, as its landholdings increased, the Church played a crucial role in perfecting techniques of viticulture and winemaking. The Cistercian order, for instance, which by 1336 owned over 123 acres (50 hectares) of prime vineyards in the northern part of Burgundy, did extensive systematic research into the relationship among grape varietal, soil and climate conditions, and the wine that resulted. These monks were among the very first to investigate and define the concept of terroir. From their meticulous work evolved the idea of crus (growths), the dividing of vineyards into sections each with its own distinct character. Many of the viticultural steps now practiced in Burgundy, such as pruning, grafting, and soil preparation, were developed by the Cistercians, as were important winemaking techniques (Phillips, 2000).

The invaluable contributions of the Catholic Church continued, as did the expansion of its landholdings, up to the time of the French Revolution and the abolition of the monarchy, at which time the pattern of land ownership in Burgundy changed. After the Revolution, the new government confiscated the lands of the Church and aristocracy, and sold them to the bourgeois families and to the peasants. Shortly thereafter, in 1790, the Napoleonic Code contributed even farther to the fragmentation of landholdings by abolishing primogeniture, the age-old custom of leaving all one's holdings to one's oldest son. All children, including daughters, were to receive equal portions of an inheritance. It did not take many generations for a family's landholdings to become very small indeed. In modern-day France, one individual's holding can be as small as a few rows of vines.

After the Napoleonic Wars ended in 1815, and the new patterns of land ownership were firmly established, and economic and political conditions stabilized throughout France, wine production in Burgundy expanded. With the rise of the bourgeoisie, France's middle class, a new market for Burgundy's wines opened up. Unfortunately, attention to quality and authenticity was not always maintained. It was not unusual for a vintner to expand production by blending in juice from grapes grown in inferior vineyards, or even grown outside of Burgundy. This type of fraud became even more prevalent as increasing numbers of negociants emerged.

Before Burgundy could correct the problem of fraud, the region was hit hard by phylloxera. Many of Burgundy's vineyards were wiped out. The one benefit of the phylloxera epidemic was that, when replanting was undertaken on American rootstock, only the most suitable locations were planted, thus eliminating inferior vineyards. Most vineyards are now on slopes leading up from the river valley. The upper reaches of the hills are too exposed and cold for vines, and the low-lying sites along the valley floor are too alluvial and marshy.

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The passage of the Appellation d'Origine Controlee laws in 1935 eliminated the worst of the fraud and gave protection to place names within Burgundy. The AOC laws also established standards of viticulture and winemaking. Since the 1990s, there has been a trend away from small growers selling their grapes to negociants, and instead the number of proprietaire labels has increased.

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Classification System of Burgundy

When learning to decipher Burgundy's classification system, it is helpful to think in terms of concentric circles (Figure 6.13), while bearing in mind our maxim about European appellations: "The smaller and more specific the geographic designation, in general, the better and more distinctive the wine." In the case of Burgundy, the outermost concentric circle is the general appellation, Burgundy. The label will say simply "Bourgogne Rouge" or "Bourgogne Blanc" (Figure 6.14). Grapes for this level of wine may be grown anywhere within the region of Burgundy. Burgundy is a small region, with only 98,000 acres (39,676 hectares) under vines, and the grapes used must be the approved varietals of Pinot Noir (for reds) or Chardonnay (for whites). Therefore, a wine labeled as generic Burgundy can still be quite distinctive as it will be made from noble varietals (Table 6.2).

The next circle in our hypothetical "target" is that of the regional appellation. For these wines, the grapes must all be grown within a specific subregion of Burgundy. An example would be Cote de Beaune or Cote de Nuits-Villages. Sometimes a regional appellation signifies that grapes from vineyards located in two or more villages have been blended together.

The next smaller circle is the commune appellation. A commune is a village or town. All the grapes used in a wine labeled with the name of a specific commune must come from vineyards located within the boundaries of that village or town (Figure 6.15).

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The next two levels are for specific single vineyards, often very small indeed. The vineyards that carry their own individual appellation are those that have been officially rated by the authorities. Only in the best regions of Burgundy are there any rated vineyards. Single vineyard appellations are found only in Chablis and the Cote d'Or. The first level of rated vineyards is the premier cru appellation (first growth designation) (Figure 6.16). The label for premier cru wines will show both the name of the vineyard and the name of the commune in which it is located. For instance, "Pommard (the commune) Epenots (the rated vineyard)" or "Beaune (the town) Clos de la Mousse (the rated vineyard)."

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The final level of quality for Burgundy, the "bull's eye" of our concentric circles analogy, is the grand cru appellation, or "great growth designation" (Figure 6.17). The grand cru vineyards have been rated by the authorities as the very best sites for growing Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. Due to immutable physical factors such as hours of sunshine, protection from cold winds, drainage, and unique makeup of the soil these vineyards are capable of producing, year after year, grapes that are superior to those harvested from other vineyards. Wines from grand cru vineyards carry just the name of that vineyard. An example would be "Grands Fchezeaux" or "Le Corton." The commune name is not mentioned. There are only 7 grand cru vineyards in Chablis, and 30 in the Cote d'Or. These vineyards are small in area and their production limited. Needless to say, grand cru wines are very expensive.

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Wine Regions of Burgundy

Burgundy is divided into six main regions: Chablis, Cote de Nuits, Cote de Beaune (which together are often referred to as the Cote d'Or), Cote Chalonnaise, Maconnais, and Beaujolais. Chablis lies geographically separate from the rest of Burgundy, some 81 miles (131 km) to the northwest. The remaining regions are spread in a contiguous line along the Saone River valley, from the city of Dijon in the north to the city of Lyon in the south. The vineyards are not contiguous, however. Burgundy is not a tightly planted region, as vineyards are planted only on the slopes where vines can receive enough sunlight to flourish.

Chablis

Chablis is an appellation restricted to dry white wine. These are among the most crisp and elegant wines made from the Chardonnay grape. The climate here is cool enough that the grapes maintain an excellent crisp acidity. The flavors fully evolve because the grapes enjoy a lengthy ripening period as they hang on the vines into fall. However, the vintners must be constantly alert to the danger of frost.

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Chablis is a fairly small region, with fewer than 7,000 acres (2,834 hectares) under vines. The soil throughout Chablis is uniform, a unique mix of chalky limestone and clay. This mixture imparts distinctive aromas (hay, apple, and wet slate) and flavors unlike those found in Chardonnay grapes grown even a few miles away. There is a minerally, almost flinty, edge to Chablis that perfectly sets off its subtle flavors and crisp acidity. V isually, Chablis whites have a vibrant yellow color with a touch of green at the edge. These wines are superb companions to a wide variety of foods, especially seafood, poultry or pasta in creamy sauces, and certain veal dishes.

Classification within Chablis In 1936, the French authorities began the process of rating the vineyards of Chablis. The very best vineyard sites, on a slope above the town of Chablis, face southwest, thus benefiting from more sun exposure than other locations. On this slope the soil also has a higher level of fossilized oyster shells, which add a subtle but highly desirable extra dimension of complexity to the wines. In 1938, seven vineyards on this slope were awarded the grand cru rating (Figure 6.18). These seven vineyards are very small, averaging less than 40 acres (16 hectares) each. Wines made from grapes grown in these vineyards are labeled Chablis grand cru, with the specific vineyard also listed (Table 6.3).

Next in quality are those vineyard sites designated premier cru. The original group of 11 premier cru vineyards was classified in 1967. Some of these vineyards actually encompass several subsidiary vineyards, but the authorities streamlined the original list of 26 vineyard sites down to the more comprehensible eleven. In 1986, an additional 7 sites were designated premier cru, while 1 of the original 11 was absorbed into its neighbor. Consequently, there are now a total of 17 premier cru vineyards. The wines from these sites are labeled Chablis premier cru, with the specific vineyard also listed (Table 6.4).

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Wine made from Chardonnay grapes grown anywhere else within the official boundaries of the Chablis appellation is simply labeled Chablis. A step below that is the appellation of Petit Chablis, which encompasses vineyards on the hills and plateaus at the outskirts of the region. Approximately 85 percent of the wine produced in the region is classified as generic Chablis or Petit Chablis.

Cote d'Or

Burgundy's Cote d'Or, or Golden Slope, is widely regarded as one of the world's best areas for growing cool-climate grapes. It is only about 30 miles (48 km) long and less than 2.5 miles (4 km) at its widest. Elevation is between 720 and 1,000 feet (219 and 305 meters). The hills protect the vineyards from excessive rain and provide south and east facing slopes that catch more sunlight.

The Cote d'Or is divided into two subregions. The northern portion is the Cote de Nuits (named for the town of Nuits-St.-George). The southern portion is the Cote de Beaune (named for the city of Beaune). In general, the Cote de Nuits is famous for its red wines and the Cote de Beaune for its whites. The reds of the Cote de Nuits are big but not tannic, elegant with solid structure, and incredibly complex. The complex melange of aromas and flavors is all the more surprising when one realizes that the wines are made from only one grape, the Pinot Noir. The bouquet is earthy, displaying enticing aromas of mushrooms, root vegetables like beets, or even the typical barnyard aroma of old manure. The fruit is reminiscent of cherries or strawberries. These wines can be consumed as early as 2 to 6 years after the vintage year, but can age very well, often not reaching maturity until 15 or 20 years old.

The whites of the Cote de Beaune are made entirely from Chardonnay grapes. Cote de Beaune whites are noted for their complex bouquets of hazelnut or blanched almond, apple, appealing vegetable tones of fresh cabbage, and a hint of toast. The flavors are of ripe fruit and toasty oak, perfectly balanced by fresh acidity. The lesser whites of Burgundy are fermented in stainless steel and bottled young, never spending any time in barrels. But the great whites of the Cote de Beaune are both fermented and aged in oak, which adds to their nutty/buttery richness.

The Cote de Nuits The Cote de Nuits starts in the north with the village of Marsannay, just south of the city of Dijon and continues for 14 miles (22.6 km). There are small quantities of rose and white wines made here, but the Cote de Nuits is famous for its world-class reds. The important communes of the Cote de Nuits, from north to south, are Marsannay, Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St.-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanee, and Nuits-St.-George.

Marsannay This small village just south of Dijon is famous for its rose, a dry wine made from Pinot Noir grapes. The bouquet is of strawberries, and the flavors are clean and fresh. These wines are best served young. Like all roses, Marsannay roses are very good with salty foods, such as ham or anchovies.

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Gevrey-Chambertin The name of this commune reflects a common practice in the Cote d'Or: Hyphenating the name of the commune's most famous grand cru vineyard (in this case, Chambertin) to the original name of the commune (Figure 6.19). Gevrey-Chambertin is an appellation for red wine only. There are eight grand cru vineyards in the commune. Besides Chambertin, the most famous vineyard is Clos de Beze. (A clos (KLOH) is a small, walled-in vineyard. It is a common way of naming vineyards in Burgundy.) The soil of the grand crus vineyards varies depending on how high up the hillside the vineyard is located. The primary component is limestone, mixed with some clay and flint. The amount of clay decreases in sites higher up the hills. Gevrey-Chambertin also has 24 premier cru vineyards. The wines from Gevrey-Chambertin are among the best of Burgundy's reds. They are full bodied, smooth, and very complex. They can age extremely well, often not reaching their prime until 15 years after the vintage.

Morey-St.-Denis The commune of Morey-St.-Denis produces primarily red wine. Lying between the more famous villages of Gevrey and Chambolle, Morey-St.-Denis is often overlooked even though its wines can be as concentrated and refined as the best produced in either of its neighbors. There are 4 grand cru vineyards in Morey-St.-Denis. There are also 25 premier cru vineyards.

Chambolle-Musigny A small amount of white wine is made in ChambolleMusigny, but the commune is renowned for its great reds. The outstanding characteristic of these wines is their aromatic bouquet, reminiscent of strawberries and roses, as well as their finesse and delicacy. Both of Chambolle's grand crus are of very high quality. The soil in both vineyards contains very little clay, a factor that contributes to the delicacy of the wines. There are also 22 premier cru vineyards in Chambolle, covering a total of just over 150 acres (61 hectares).

Vougeot Vougeot is a tiny village with only a couple dozen inhabitants. The village is dominated by its one grand cru vineyard, Clos de Vougeot, which, at 124 acres (50 hectares), is one of Burgundy's largest rated vineyards. Fully four-fifths of Vougeot's wine production is red wine from this one grand cru vineyard. Because it is so large and is owned by many different entities, the wines of Clos de Vougeot can differ considerably in style.

[FIGURE 6.20 OMITTED]

A tiny amount of white wine has the commune appellation. The remainder is red wine from the 44 acres (18 hectares) of premier cru vineyards. The reds of Vougeot have a distinctive truffle or mushroom hint to their bouquet, and have concentrated flavors.

Flagy-Echezeaux No commune wine is made in this village. Production is almost entirely from its two grand cru vineyards, Echezeaux and Grands-Echezeaux, which together cover 113 acres (45.7 hectares). The smaller one, Grands-Echezeaux, is regarded as the superior vineyard. In both vineyards there is more clay than in other important Cote de Nuits villages, a factor that gives more weight and density to the wines.

Vosne-Romanee This village produces red wine only. According to some wine experts, the Pinot Noir grape achieves its absolute pinnacle of quality in the grand cru wines from Vosne-Romanee. There are six grands cru vineyards, all of them famous and justly celebrated. These wines are among the world's most expensive. In 1650, a vineyard formerly known as Le Cloux was renamed Romanee because Roman artifacts had been found nearby. When the vineyard was purchased in 1760 by the Prince of Conti, it was given the name Romanee-Conti. Lying on the slope right above it is La Romanee (Figure 6.20). In both vineyards, the soil is primarily calcareous with up to 45 percent clay. The resulting wines have a superb balance of concentration and refinement. Fewer than 1,000 cases of wine from these two legendary vineyards are made each year.

Nuits-St.-Georges In the industrialized town of Nuits-St.-Georges there are no grand cru vineyards, but there are many fine wines made at the premier cru and village levels of quality. There are an impressive 28 premier crus within the boundaries of the town, plus an additional 13 in the adjoining town that are entitled to use the Nuits-St.Georges appellation. Many of the premier crus lie north of the town, near Vosne. The soil here is primarily iron-rich limestone, like that of the Vosne grand cru vineyards.

Cote de Beaune Since the Cote de Beaune is so famous for its elegant, complex whites--with one exception, all the grand cru vineyards are white--it is often forgotten that three-quarters of the production here is red wine. These reds are not as full bodied and complex, nor as long-lived, as those of the Cote de Nuits. However, Cote de Beaune reds can be very appealing, with vibrant fruit and silky texture. The Cote de Beaune is a large region, more than twice the size of the Cote de Nuits, stretching some 71 miles (114.5 km) from north to south. The hills here have gentler slopes and face primarily southeast.

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Title Annotation:	p. 150-187
Publication:	About Wine, 2nd ed.
Article Type:	Essay
Geographic Code:	4EUFR
Date:	Jan 1, 2012
Words:	12468
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Topics:	Grapes Varieties Topographical drawing Comparative analysis Topography Comparative analysis Wine International marketing Methods Wine districts Laws, regulations and rules Natural history