FAQs

There are several types of diesel hoses available to suit different needs and applications, each designed with specific features to help transfer fuel. Diesel suction hoses are designed to draw diesel fuel from one tank to another, usually where the fuel source is below the level of the receiving tank. These hoses often have reinforced construction to handle the suction pressure and prevent collapse while maintaining flexibility for ease of use. Diesel gravity hoses are usually used where fuel flows from a higher point to a lower point. These hoses are designed to resist kinking and maintain consistent flow, ensuring efficient fuel transfer without the need for additional pumping equipment. If you need precise control over fuel flow, such as in refuelling stations or fuelling depots, diesel dispensing hoses feature specialised fittings and nozzles for secure connections and spill prevention. They may also incorporate anti-static properties to mitigate the risk of static electricity building up during transfer.

If you need any help choosing the right fuel hose for your needs, our friendly and knowledgeable team at Tanks.ie are on hand to help.

There are many factors that can affect how long a diesel hose will last, including the material it is made from, the environment in which it's used, and the level of care and maintenance it receives during its lifespan. Generally, hoses made from higher-quality materials such as reinforced rubber or synthetic compounds tend to have longer lifespans compared to lower-grade alternatives. These materials offer superior durability, resistance to abrasion, and protection against chemical corrosion, factors that all contribute to longevity. Diesel fuel hoses with reinforced layers provide strength and flexibility, to ensure the hose can endure the stresses of handling and movement without compromising its integrity over time.

At Tanks.ie, our hoses undergo rigorous testing and adhere to industry standards to ensure reliability and longevity. Lookout for diesel hoses with specialised coatings or layers to enhance resistance to abrasion, UV exposure, and other environmental factors that could otherwise degrade hoses over time. Regular inspection for signs of wear, damage, or deterioration allows for timely replacement or repair before issues escalate. Following manufacturer guidelines for storage, handling, and usage can help prevent premature aging and ensure optimal performance throughout the lifespan of your hose.

The first thing you’ll want to consider is the flow rate required for the efficient transfer of your fuel. Larger diameter hoses typically allow for greater flow rates, making them suitable for applications where rapid refuelling or high-volume transfers are necessary. Smaller diameter hoses are suitable for lower flow rate applications or where space constraints limit the use of larger hoses. Also consider the distance over which the fuel needs to be transferred and ensure the length of the hose is long enough. Longer hose lengths or applications requiring fuel to be pumped uphill may necessitate larger diameter hoses to maintain adequate flow rates and minimise pressure drop. Calculating the total length of hose needed and factoring in any elevation changes can help determine the optimal hose size for your specific requirements. Remember, different fuels may have varying viscosity or flow characteristics that influence the choice of hose size. For example, thicker fuels like diesel may require larger diameter hoses to ensure smooth flow and prevent clogging, particularly in colder temperatures where viscosity increases.

You'll need to consider the compatibility of the hose size with your existing equipment or fuel system. Ensure that the hose diameter matches the inlet and outlet sizes of your fuel tanks, pumps, and dispensing nozzles to ensure a seamless connection and prevent any issues with fuel flow or leakage. Consulting equipment manuals or specifications can provide guidance on the appropriate hose size for your setup.

Although Oil tanks are not the most attractive things to have in your garden, we always recommend seeking the advice of your local OFTEC registered liquid fuel tank installer as to the best place to position and how to screen your tank, if needed. The regulations for oil tank installation vary according to which region of the UK or Ireland you live in and there are also other environmental factors that need to be taken into account.  For more information, please check out - OFTEC

Some ways customers have screened their tanks are below, however please check with your local OFTEC installer first.

Walls

One of the most common ways to hide an oil tank is to build a false wall around it. Whether you use bricks, stone or fencing, make sure you leave space to get in and around the tank for maintenance and replacement.

Landscaping

Probably the most effective and aesthetic ways to hide an oil tank is to surround it with shrubs, trees, or potted plants that can help to camouflage the tank from view. Make sure you the plants are properly maintained, as they can become a fire hazard if not cared for properly.

Whatever option you choose, your tank will be out of sight – but it should not remain out of mind! Remember to keep on top of oil levels and have your tank regularly inspected by a qualified engineer to prevent any potential problems.

AdBlue is a 32.5% aqueous solution of urea that is used to reduce nitrogen oxide (NOx) emissions from diesel engines. NOx emissions from diesel engines are a significant contributor to air pollution and have been linked to a range of negative environmental and health effects. AdBlue is a key component of selective catalytic reduction (SCR) systems, which use a catalyst to convert NOx into nitrogen and water vapor.

SCR systems work by injecting AdBlue into the exhaust gas stream of a diesel engine, where it reacts with the NOx to form nitrogen and water vapor. The nitrogen is a naturally occurring component of the air we breathe, and the water vapor is harmless and dissipates quickly. By reducing NOx emissions, SCR systems help diesel engines meet increasingly stringent emissions standards and reduce their environmental impact.

AdBlue is a non-toxic and biodegradable product, and it is safe to handle and store. It is widely used in the transportation, agriculture, and construction industries, as well as in power generation and other heavy-duty applications. Because AdBlue is used in such large quantities, it is typically stored in bulk tanks and dispensed as needed, reducing the number of deliveries and associated emissions.

In summary, AdBlue is a critical component of SCR systems, and its use has helped reduce NOx emissions and improve air quality in many applications.

AdBlue plastic tanks are typically made of high-density polyethylene (HDPE), a durable and chemical-resistant material that is well suited for storing AdBlue

AdBlue plastic tanks are designed for easy installation and typically come with all the necessary hardware and fittings. The tank should be installed in a suitable location, preferably on a level and stable surface, and connected to the AdBlue dispensing system.

AdBlue plastic tanks require minimal maintenance, but it is important to keep them clean and free from contamination. The tanks should be periodically inspected for signs of damage or leaks, and any repairs should be made promptly to prevent contamination of the AdBlue.

Yes, AdBlue plastic tanks are suitable for outdoor use, but they should be protected from direct sunlight and extreme weather conditions. The tanks should also be placed in a location where they will not be exposed to heavy traffic or impact damage.

AdBlue plastic tanks are available in a range of sizes, from small drums to large bulk tanks. The capacity of a tank will depend on its size and design, but typical capacities range from several hundred liters to several thousand liters.

AdBlue plastic tanks are designed to last for many years, but their lifespan will depend on factors such as the quality of the tank, the storage conditions, and the frequency of use. Proper maintenance and regular inspection will help extend the lifespan of the tank.

AdBlue is a corrosive material and must not be added to the fuel tank. Damage can be caused to the tank and corresponding pipework if mixed. If in the unlikely event AdBlue is accidentally added to a fuel tank seek professional help to drain and flush the AdBlue solution from fuel tank.

All the diesel dispensing tanks that we sell are bunded which is a term that literally means a `tank within a tank'. This is designed to keep the fuel safe in the very rare event should the inner tank split. The cabinet doors can be locked either with a key or in some instances the tank is supplied with a metal post which the customer can secure with their own padlock

Advanced diesel dispensing tanks can sometimes be offered or come with fuel management systems which would only allow authorized people with key fobs to dispense fuel

Diesel (D) to British Standard BS2869. Additionally, the diesel dispensing tanks we sell are also suitable for the storage and dispensing of Bio-Diesel with a bio-element of up to 5% concentration.

No. The pumps and ancillary equipment fitted to these products are suitable only for use with Diesel. Dispensing a non-approved fuel from this equipment could result in serious injury or death.

No. Any equipment that is required to be sold would require a Weights & Measures certificate. All the diesel dispensing tanks we sell do not have certified equipment

No. The 12v pumps would come supplied with battery cables and crocodile clips to connect to a battery outside of the tank. We are unable to provide batteries.

No. These tanks would not have the correct type of pump and AdBlue solution requires stainless steel connectors which are not used in diesel tanks

Choosing a steel tank has a nu,mber of advantages:-

1. Durable and long life - A steel tank is strong and hard wearing and requires very little maintenance. Damage to a steel tank can be easily repaired, whereas a plastic tank is often unusable once damaged.
2. Robust - steel tanksa re very hard to damage and therefore not as easy to leak, causing environmental problems.
3. Secure - Steel tanks are harder to break in to and are less likely to be damaged with vandalism.
4. Customised - steel tanks can be made and customised to suit not only the shape and capacity you need but also the dispensing equipment that is installed.

The minimum that manufacturers aim for is 10 years of use for steel tanks. The surrounding enviroment also affects the longevity of a steel tank and the coating on the tank, corroding more quickly in a coastal environment etc.

The answer to this question depends on several factors, including the quality of the diesel, the environment the tank is stored in, and the type of transfer tank being used. Generally speaking, diesel fuel stored in a transfer tank will last between six and twelve months. However, this time frame can vary depending on the factors listed previously. For example, if the diesel is of high quality and stored in an environment that is not prone to extreme climate changes, then the diesel may last up to twelve months. However, if the diesel is of lower quality and stored in a harsh environment, then it may only last for six months. Additionally, if the tank is not properly sealed, then the diesel may not last as long, as air can contaminate the fuel and cause it to deteriorate more quickly.

When it comes to selecting the right type of transfer tank for your diesel storage needs, we have several options available. Each type of tank will have its own pros and cons, and the best option for you will depend on your unique needs and budget. If you’d like any help choosing the right diesel transfer tank, contact our friendly team who will be happy to help.

A transportable diesel tank should be stored in a secondary containment area if it contains fuel as in most cases these are single skin.

These tanks are primarily designed for transporting fuel to a place of work to be completely discharged of fuel

No. Unfortunately the pressure required to enable the flow meter to read accurately is not at a tolerance that the flow meter can record.

Unfortunately the automatic nozzle requires a pressure of the fuel being pumped to operate the shut off mechanism.

A hand pump or gravity fed tank would not have the necessary pressure to enable this

No, as an environmentally responsible supplier we do not supply these kits, due to the high risk of accidental damage / discharge associated with their use. Additionally, at many installations today their continued use is illegal. If you require a tank to store diesel fuel for vehicular use, we would advise you consider a Harlequin Fuel Station, or Fuel Point For BioDiesel applications, Harlequin BioFuel Stations are recommended for BioDiesel blends of up to B100. Alternatively, for connection to remote pedestal type dispensing units, Harlequin's BioBund range is ideal. Please note that all BioDiesel tanks supplied by Tanks.ie are suitable only for use with BioDiesel produced in accordance with European Standards.

A single phase (domestic 240v mains) power supply is required and always recommended being connected to a Residual Current Device (RCD) fitted at the connection point to the power supply. All mains electrical installations must only be undertaken by a qualified electrician and must be inspected and tested regularly in accordance with statutory requirements. Alternatively an electrician can wire up to a standard 3 pin plug and would not affect warranty.

A single skin oil tank consists of a single container in which fuel is stored. Single skin oil tanks are not suitable for the storage of fuel at commercial, industrial or institutional premises; or at domestic installations with an installed capacity of over 2,500 litres - unless installed within a suitably bunded area. For all other installations, an Oil Tank Risk Assessment must be undertaken by a competent person prior to installation and in accordance with the requirements of OFTEC Technical Instruction Book 3. In anticipation of future possible regulations, serious consideration should be given to fitting a Bunded Tank, even where a single skin tank may currently suffice.
Click here to view our Single Skin Tanks

A Bunded Tank simply consists of an 'oil tank within an oil tank'. In the event of a spillage, surplus liquid will collect in the outer tank, thus averting a pollution incident. Bunded Tanks are now required at commercial, industrial, institutional, commercial and most domestic premises.

If the oil tank has a nominal capacity of less than 3,500 litres, it should not be placed any closer than 760mm to a boundary. This assumes that there are no flue outlets or buildings between the tank and the boundary. Where these distances cannot be achieved, the protection measures noted in OFTEC Technical Instruction Book 3 and British Standard BS5410 must be provided by means of a 30-minute fire resistant wall which extends a minimum of 300mm above and beyond the ends of the oil tank. For oil tanks with a nominal capacity of 3,500 litres or greater please contact your local Building Control Officer or OFTEC.

Oil tanks with a nominal capacity of less than 3,500 litres should not be placed within 1.8 metres of a flue outlet. Where these distances cannot be achieved, the protection measures noted in OFTEC Technical Instruction Book 3 and British Standard BS5410 must be provided by means of a 30-minute fire resistant wall which extends a minimum of 300mm above and beyond the ends of the tank. For oil tanks with a nominal capacity of 3,500 litres or greater please contact your local Building Control Officer or OFTEC.

Oil tanks with a nominal capacity not exceeding 3,500 litres should not be fitted any closer than 1.8 metres to a non fire-rated (30-minute minimum fire resistance) wall or eaves. Where these clearances cannot be achieved, the measures noted in British Standard BS5410 and OFTEC Technical Instruction Book 3 must be provided i.e. the provision of a 30 minutes (minimum) fire resistant wall which extends at least 300mm above and beyond the ends of the oil tank. It will be necessary to protect exposed eaves forming part of a roof within 1.8 metres of the top of an oil tank to provide a minimum of 30 minutes fire resistance. Cladding can be applied to the eaves in order to prevent fire from spreading to the roof. For oil tanks with a capacity of 3,500 litres or greater, please contact your local Building Control Officer or OFTEC.

Internal oil storage tanks should never be installed in a habitable area and if installed internally, should always be contained within an enclosed chamber. Detailed requirements exist for internal oil storage installations. For more information contact your local Building Control Officer or OFTEC.

A definite NO.

All oil tanks supplied by Tanks.ie are manufactured from Medium Density Polyethylene (MDPE) - a material that displays excellent chemical and impact resistance properties, making it ideal for external fuel storage. Fittings vary according to tank type and supplier. However, in general, fill points are made from either coated mild or stainless steel, outlets from coated mild steel, and vent points are manufactured from plastic. All materials used in the manufacture of oil tanks supplied by Tanks.ie are resistant to the potentially damaging long-term effects of fuel.

All oil tanks must be installed on a flat, level and fire resistant base capable of supporting the weight of the tank when fully laden. If concrete slabs are used they should be a minimum of 50mm thick. The base should extend at least 300mm beyond the widest points of the tank and fully support the base of the tank in its entirety. Piers or pillars are not suitable for this purpose and can cause irreparable damage to the tank.

Technically, sight-gauges can still be fitted to a single skin oil tank - subject to prevailing statutory requirements. However, it should be noted that a sight-gauge is a potential leak point and as an environmentally responsible supplier we do not supply them and do not recommend them. Preference should instead be demonstrated to fitting an electronic oil tank contents gauge, which, unlike a sight gauge, is positioned above the maximum level of fuel in the tank, thereby dramatically reducing the likelihood of an environmental pollution incident. An Apollo type electronic oil tank gauging system is fitted as standard to all Harlequin Advance Single-Skin Oil tanks supplied by Tanks.ie - eliminating the requirement to fit a sight-gauge.

No. Please note however that all Harlequin Bunded Tanks (except 350BND/ENV), Harlequin Polyrock Bunded Oil Tanks, Harlequin BioBund Bunded tanks, and Harlequin Fuel Stations are pre-supplied with an electronic oil tank contents gauge, which removes the requirement for a sight-gauge to be fitted.

This permits an LRC enabled delivery driver to plug in his overfill prevention equipment and is not for consumer use.

Yes. Every tank sold by Tanks.ie is manufactured from a material which incorporated UV inhibitors. These prevent UV rays from permeating the structure of the tank, thus preventing fuel degradation.

No.

No. Openings (other than the tank outlet) are not permitted below the maximum level of fuel in the tank. This reduces the risk of accidental spillage. In the event that contaminants (e.g. water) need to be removed from the tank, they should be removed by an appropriately licensed contractor via the inspection aperture fitted to each tank.

Please contact your local fuel distributor who will be able to provide advice on how best to remove it.

Yes.

This is perfectly normal and is simply the fuel venting through the weatherproof vent fitted to the oil tank.

No, as an environmentally responsible supplier we do not supply these kits, due to the high risk of accidental damage / discharge associated with their use. Additionally, at many installations today their continued use is illegal. If you require a tank to store diesel fuel for vehicular use, we would advise you consider a Harlequin Fuel Station, or Fuel Point For BioDiesel applications, Harlequin BioFuel Stations are recommended for BioDiesel blends of up to B100. Alternatively, for connection to remote pedestal type dispensing units, Harlequin's BioBund range is ideal. Please note that all BioDiesel tanks supplied by Tanks.ie are suitable only for use with BioDiesel produced in accordance with European Standards.

No - not as separate items. However, dipsticks are supplied as standard on all Harlequin tanks with a capacity between 650 litres and 2700 litres as standard.

No.

The Tiger Loop is a de-aeration device which removes air from the fuel prior to combustion. The result is a cleaner, more-efficient burn, with reduced emissions and enhanced cold weather performance. Additionally, the Tiger Loop can permit the tank to be positioned lower than the burner and up to 30 metres away. Therefore when connected to a pressure jet burner, it is ideal for Top Outlet Bunded Tank installations and eliminates the need for an undesirable return line. Please note that Tiger Loops are unsuitable for use with installations incorporating a vaporising burner.

The Tiger Loop is self priming.

No.

No – not as separate items. However, dipsticks are supplied as standard on all Harlequin tanks with a capacity between 650 litres and 2700 litres as standard.

No, as an environmentally responsible supplier we do not supply these kits, due to the high risk of accidental damage / discharge associated with their use. Additionally, at many installations today their continued use is illegal. If you require a tank to store diesel fuel for vehicular use, we would advise you consider a Harlequin Fuel Station, or Fuel Point.

Just like in your car, oil tank gauges measure the level of fuel remaining by using a float. With visual oil tank gauges, you will see a vial or clock that tell you whether your tank is full, ¾-full, ½-full, ¼-full or near empty. Levels may also be displayed as a percentage. These provide a good estimate of how much oil you have left in your tank and are useful for letting you know when you may need more. Oil tank gauges usually have a rigid metal rod attached to a float inside the oil tank. As the oil is consumed, the float falls accordingly and the gauge reading drops. However, because the bottom of a fuel oil tank is usually rounded, the gauge will go from a quarter-full to empty quicker than it goes from half-full to a quarter. This means they are not completely accurate and should only be used as a guide as to how much oil remains in the tank.

For more precise oil tank readings, a smart oil tank gauge uses an ultrasonic sensor that can provide accurate readings to within a few litres.

This will depend on the type of oil tank gauge you have. Heating oil tanks that sit above the ground typically have a float gauge up top, which have an arm with a floating end on it. As oil is consumed, the float falls accordingly. The disc or needle on the indicator will move up and down as the float inside the tank moves, indicating the approximate level of oil in the tank. If your tank holds 1250 litres of oil, ½ a tank means approximately 625 litres remain. If the disc is showing ¼ of a tank, there’s 312 litres remaining and if it’s showing ¾ of a tank, there’s about 938 litres remaining. The levels may also be displayed as a percentage. 

If your oil tank gauge uses an ultrasonic sensor, like our range of smart oil tank gauges, you’ll be able to read a much more precise tank level by simply opening the app. Except for the top 8 inches of your tank, smart oil gauges will provide readings within a few litres in your tank.

Some people get confused when taking a reading on their oil tank gauge – whether they should use the top or the bottom as the indicator. Read the gauge on the top of the tank. It will tell you if your tank is full, three-quarters full, half-full, a quarter-full or near empty. The levels may also be presented as a percentage.

Because of the rounded bottom of an oil tank, you may notice that the gauge goes from a quarter-full to empty quicker than it goes from half-full to a quarter. For this reason, you should only use float gauges as an estimation of how much fuel is left in the tank and it is advisable to reorder oil when the gauge is reading ¼ full to avoid running out.

You can find out how much oil is left in your oil tank by checking the oil tank gauge. How you do this will depend on the type of oil tank gauge you have. If you have a smart oil tank gauge, you’ll be able to read a much more precise tank level by simply opening the app. You can usually set up notifications that will alert you when your tank is starting to run low. Or perhaps you’re using a visual oil gauge. As oil is consumed, the float level drops and the disc inside the float gauge vial indicates the approximate level of oil in the tank – shown either as a percentage or full, ¾-full, ½-full, ¼-full etc. If you’re using a float gauge, it's a good idea to set a regular day to check your tank's oil level to avoid running out of oil. Set a reminder on your calendar or phone marking specific days to check your oil tank. It is also important to check that your gauge is in good working order. If you’ve had your heating on but the dial hasn’t moved in a while, there's a good chance it's not reading the level correctly.

Kerosene (C1/C2), Agricultural Fuel Oil (A2), Diesel (D) and Water. To see our range of Apollo Alarms click here.

An oil gauge sits inside your oil tank and lets you know how much oil remains. A basic sight gauge has a clear tube that runs all the way from the outlet at the bottom of the tank, showing you exactly where the fuel level is. Float gauges use a float that that goes down with the oil as it is used, usually displaying the oil level on a clock face. More technical devices, like Kingspan's SENSiT smart Wi-Fi enabled tank level monitor, enable you to monitor your oil levels through a smartphone app.

If the gauge inside your tank has failed or needs replacing, don't worry — it is possible to replace it if you are careful. To replace a float gauge, you will need a replacement gauge, oil lubricant, a wrench, wire and a torch. Use lubricant on the tank cap to loosen it, before turning it carefully with a wrench. Be careful not to ruin the threads. Find the end of the old float gauge arm and pull it from the oil tank with a piece of wire. You may need a torch to see what you’re doing. Remove the gauge from the gauge pipe and place the new gauge inside. Re-insert the gauge and gauge pipe into the oil tank and close the lid.

It is important not to let your oil level fall too low. We recommend you keep at least 12 inches of oil at the bottom of your oil tank to avoid an emergency and to prevent a delivery disrupting the sediment that settles at the bottom of your tank. If this sediment is disturbed it can clog up filters and pipes, leading to costly repairs. Most manufacturers will state the capacity guide for each oil tank model.

Have you recently purchased a Watchman Sonic and unsure how to install it onto your oil tank? Here at Tanks.ie we can provide you with an easy step by step guide to help you correctly install your Watchman Sonic on to your tank.

HOW DO I INSTALL THE WATCHMAN SONIC?

To ensure a quick and easy installation of the Watchman Sonic, please follow the below steps.

Parts required for installation

STEP 1 – CHECKING TANK’S LEVEL, DISTANCE FROM RECEIVER AND HEIGHT OF TANK.

There a few things to consider, even before you start to install your Watchman Sonic onto your tank.

1. Is the tank on a flat level Surface
2. Is the tank within 200 meters range from the receiver position
3. Not including the base, is the  maximum height of the tank 3 meters?  If larger than this, please contact us.

STEP 2 – PREPARING YOUR TANK

Below are few steps for making sure your tank is ready for the Watchman Sonic, whether you have a Pr-Drilled tank or one which is undrilled, we have a step for you.

Please note that it is important for all items to be kept dry during the installation process, to achieve the best outcome.

PRE-DRILLED TANKS

With most pre-drilled tanks, there will already be a 32mm opening on the top of the tank, with possibly a tube fitted. If so, remove the cover by undoing the 2 screws holding it in place. Dispose of the tube which was fitted, in accordance with your local government guidelines.

Please check the pre-drilled hole is a minimum of 30mm in diameter.

The space beneath the Watchman Sonic needs to be free of any obstacles, so please check that the ultrasonic beam path is clear of any obstructions. If not this could send back false readings.

UN-DRILLED TANKS

When choosing the correct position on your tank to drill the hole required, consider choosing a flat level point that is the same level and no higher than any opening at the top of the tank. Like the Filling point etc.

If the transmitter is fixed at an angle, it will give an incorrect level reading on the receiver, so the straighter the better.

Take care not to choose an area where water could gather, i.e. a dent/depression or a position directly above any restricted area, as this can again give a false reading.

If your Un-drilled tank has window configurations or internal braces (like the below image), please do not position your watchman Sonic directly above these or within 15cm of the area of the window or edge of the tank. The sonic’s path needs to be completely clear to the bottom of the tank to work accurately.

Once you have found the correct position, drill a hole in the tanks top surface, using a 32mm hole-saw.

STEP 3 – FITTING THE TRANSMITTER

If your tank comes with a pre-drilled hole, please follow the next step to help fit the transmitter base to your tank.

• Remove the cap from the hole and insert the transmitter base (part B), ensuring the weather seal is securely in place
• Tighten the Watchman base on to the tank with 2 stainless steel self-tapping, counter sunkscrews supplied (part C). Please be careful not to over tighten the screws.

STEP 4 – MEASURE THE HEIGHT OF THE TANK

To accurately measure the height of your oil tank, measure from the base of the tank (not including the base/piers the tank is positioned on) to the position of the Watchman Sonic (should be the same as the fill point). For the Watchman Sonic to work, the maximum height is 3 meters for the measurement above.

STEP 5 – SETTING THE SWITCHES ON THE RECEIVER

Within your product packaging, use the Tank height chart, read across to the relevant multi switch setting, using the tank measurements you took in step 4. For example, if your measurement was 100cms, then the switches to flick up would be Switch 5 and switch 7.

To flick the switch upwards, using a screwdriver or top of ballpoint pen to set the relevant switches. These switches can be found on the on the back of the received above the plug (as in the position displayed below)

Switches 1 & 2 are factory set switches and have no relevance to the end user. If you wish to set a audible ring feature, then switch one needs to be moved up. This will cause the the unit to bleep in the event of a low level reading.

STEP 6 – LINKING RECEIVER AND TRANSMITTER

To pair the receiver (part A) to the transmitter (part D) so that the system code is unique to your tank set up, you will need to do the following and it should only need to be done once -

• Plug the receiver into a suitable and convenient electrical socket.
• Switch on
• The display screen on the front of the receiver will show a flashing bar. This will indicate that the receiver is waiting for the code required. The bar will continue to flash for upto 2 minutes, during which time, you should be able to pair the transmitter to the receiver.
• Hold the transmitter against the receivers right hand side, so that the white dot on the transmitter is touching the black dot on the receiver for roughly 20 seconds, to allow the unique code to be transferred. This is IMPORTANT to help with the pairing.
• Bars will start to increase up the display screen and a clicking sound should be audible. When all 10 bars are visible and flashing, this will indicate that the unique code has been transferred.
• Once matched, attached the transmitted immediately to the position on the tank.
• If you are installing more than one Watchman Sonic unit, please wait 9 minutes before matching the other units.

STEP 7 – ATTACHING THE TRANSMITTER TO THE BASE

Once paired, screw the transmitter (part D) into the base (part E), ensuring the transmitter is vertical on top of the tank and level.

Please match sure that the threads have not crossed, so when screwed in correctly it should give a secure seal.

STEP 8 - CHECKING THE LEVEL OF OIL WITHIN THE TANK

The bars on the visible screen of the receiver indicates the level of oil that is within your tank.

Please note that it can take up to 2 hours until the first accurate reading is dispalyed on the Watchman Sonic.

Congratulations your Watchman Sonic should now be successfully installed.

If you require any further technical information, or if your Watchman Sonic is not working as it should, please contact [email protected].

Kerosene (C1/C2), Agricultural Fuel Oil (A2), Diesel (D) and Water.

No.

13 amp single-phase mains power supply with a Residual Current Device (RCD) fitted at the connection point to the power supply. All mains electrical installations must only be undertaken by a qualified electrician and must be inspected and tested regularly in accordance with statutory requirements.

Diesel (D) to British Standard BS2869. Additionally, Harlequin Fuel Stations and Harlequin Fuel Points are also suitable for the storage and dispensing of Bio-Diesel with a bio-element of up to 5% concentration.

No. The pumps and ancillary equipment fitted to these products are suitable only for use with Diesel. Dispensing a non-approved fuel from this equipment could result in serious injury or death.

No.

No.

No.

No. For advice on how to dispose of petrol and any other similarly dangerous liquids, please contact your local authority.

Derived from renewable sources like vegetable oils and animal fats, hydrotreated vegetable oil fuel (or HVO) is synthesised through a process called hydrotreatment. During hydrotreatment, impurities are removed, and the molecular structure of the feedstock is modified, resulting in a cleaner-burning and more environmentally friendly fuel. With its similar composition to traditional diesel, HVO fuel can be seamlessly integrated into existing diesel engines and infrastructure.

When burned, HVO fuel emits fewer carbon dioxide, particulate matter, and other harmful pollutants compared to conventional diesel. This characteristic makes it an attractive option for combating air pollution and minimising the carbon footprint of vehicles and machinery, significantly reducing greenhouse gas emissions and air pollutants compared to traditional diesel. HVO fuel is well-suited for use in trucks, buses, construction equipment, and agricultural machinery. The compatibility with existing diesel infrastructure means you can seamlessly transition to HVO fuel without making significant modifications.

The pricing dynamics of HVO fuel and diesel can vary based on a multitude of factors. At times, HVO fuel might appear to have a higher upfront cost compared to conventional diesel. This can be attributed to the production process and the relatively smaller scale of HVO fuel production in comparison to the well-established diesel industry. However, it's crucial to dig deeper and consider the long-term financial perspective.

One of the financial benefits of HVO fuel lies in its potential for enhanced engine performance and maintenance. HVO's cleaner combustion can lead to reduced engine wear and deposits, ultimately extending the lifespan of your engines and potentially offsetting the initial cost difference. As demand for sustainable fuels like HVO grows, economies of scale could come into play, gradually bringing down production costs and narrowing the price gap between HVO and diesel. In some regions, tax breaks and subsidies might be offered for using renewable fuels like HVO as part of efforts to reduce emissions and promote sustainability. This can make HVO fuel more financially attractive compared to diesel, especially when factoring in the broader environmental benefits. As technologies evolve and the renewable fuel sector advances, it's reasonable to anticipate innovations that could enhance the efficiency of HVO production and distribution. These could lead to more competitive pricing over time.

HVO fuel boasts exceptional stability and a longer storage duration, allowing you more flexibility with your fuel management. At Fuel Tank Shop, we offer a wide range of HVO fuel tanks available in various sizes and materials, specifically designed to store HVO fuel safely and efficiently. When stored under proper conditions, HVO fuel can maintain its quality for up to 10 years or more – although the storage duration can vary depending on factors like the quality of the initial fuel and the presence of any contaminants.

The prolonged shelf life of HVO fuel is due to the rigorous hydrotreatment process during production, which results in a fuel with reduced susceptibility to degradation and contamination. It is advisable to regularly inspect your stored HVO fuel and look for any signs of water accumulation or sediment settling at the bottom of the storage container, as these can compromise the fuel's quality over time. If you spot any issues, it's recommended to address them promptly by filtering or treating the fuel as necessary.

HVO BIOFUEL TANKS

Over 680,000 homes currently use heating oil in the Republic of Ireland. Hydrotreated Vegetable Oil or HVO would provide a near drop-in replacement for kerosene and offers an extremely cost-effective alternative to other low carbon heating technologies.

HVO emits significantly fewer greenhouse gases and harmful pollutants when compared to traditional diesel. This means cleaner air, a minimised carbon footprint, and a positive contribution to combatting air pollution and climate change. Its seamless compatibility with existing diesel infrastructure means you won’t need to invest in extensive engine modifications or infrastructure changes – it can be directly blended with or used in place of conventional diesel, making the transition to this cleaner fuel hassle-free. Whether you're driving a personal car, operating commercial vehicles, or using heavy machinery, the versatility of HVO ensures a smooth integration without disruptions.

HVO fuel is derived from renewable sources such as vegetable oils and animal fats. By utilising these renewable feedstocks, you're contributing to a circular economy, reducing dependence on fossil fuels, and promoting responsible resource utilisation. HVO fuel also has a positive impact on engine performance and maintenance. Thanks to its cleaner combustion, this fuel can lead to reduced engine deposits, longer maintenance intervals, and improved overall efficiency. Your engines will run smoother, requiring less frequent servicing, that will help extend their lifespan.

The Benefits of HVO fuel are:

• Up to 90% reduction in greenhouse emissions
• Renewable and sustainable
• Replacement for regular diesel & gas oil
• Excellent cold-weather performance
• Improved safety, storage and handling compared to regular diesel
• 100% Biodegradable and non-toxic
• Zero FAME, sulphur and fossil content
• Sustainably produced
• Absence of aromatics
• Higher flash point of 61 degrees Celsius
• Supported by OFTEC
• Reduces nox emissions by up to 27%
• Reduces particulate matter by up to 84%
• Less fuel maintenance
• Odourless
• Longer shelf life than diesel

As HVO fuel has a higher cetane number (more than 70) than diesel (around 50) this means that HVO has better combustion than diesel making it much more efficient than diesel while being much better for the environment.

Some existing heating apliances may work with HVO Fuel with some small modifcations but many of the new heating appliances can be used with both normal heating oil and HVO oil. You will need to check with the manufacturer.

The process for converting existing oil boilers includes removing fossil fuel residues, water and contaminates from the storage tank, replacing the burner with an HVO specific burner, changing nozzles, and ensuring that all fuel carrying components and seals are checked for compatibility.

A transportable diesel tank should be stored in a secondary containment area if it contains fuel as in most cases these are single skin.

These tanks are primarily designed for transporting fuel to a place of work to be completely discharged of fuel.

No. Unfortunately the pressure required to enable the flow meter to read accurately is not at a tolerance that the flow meter can record.

Unfortunately the automatic nozzle requires a pressure of the fuel being pumped to operate the shut off mechanism.

A hand pump or gravity fed tank would not have the necessary pressure to enable this.

All the diesel dispensing tanks that we sell are bunded which is a term that literally means a `tank within a tank'. This is designed to keep the fuel safe in the very rare event should the inner tank split. The cabinet doors can be locked either with a key or in some instances the tank is supplied with a metal post which the customer can secure with their own padlock

Advanced diesel dispensing tanks can sometimes be offered or come with fuel management systems which would only allow authorized people with key fobs to dispense fuel.

No. The 12v pumps would come supplied with battery cables and crocodile clips to connect to a battery outside of the tank. We are unable to provide batteries.

Kingspan Klargester is one of the world's leading manufacturers of wastewater treatment systems, with over 65 years experience, within the industry, With a global reputation specialising in the manufacture of packaged pollution control products, Klargester has developed a range of innovative products, revolutionising methods of dealing with the treatment of sewage on sites where mains drainage is not available.

Their extensive range of Klargester products include Sewage Treatment plants, septic tanks, Cesspools, fuel and oil separators and grease traps.

The BioDisc uses a Rotating Biological Contractor (RBC) system which includes three stages to treat waste water. After the water has passed through a primary settlement tank, where heavy solids settle to form a sludge in the bottom of the tank, it moves into the Biozone for breaking down by microorganisms on the RBC. Suspended solids return to the primary settlement zone, and the liquor is transferred to the second stage Biozone for further treatment. Any remaining solids are settled out in the final settlement tank, leaving the remaining effluent clean enough to be discharged into a watercourse.

The Klargester system is a type of wastewater treatment solution designed to efficiently manage and treat domestic sewage from residential and commercial properties. At its core, the system consists of a septic tank and a drainage field.

The process begins in the septic tank, where raw sewage from your property collects. In this tank, solids settle to the bottom, and bacteria break down organic matter, separating it into liquid effluent and solid sludge. The treated liquid then flows out of the tank and into the drainage field, where further natural processes occur. The drainage field, also known as a soakaway, is a network of perforated pipes buried underground. The treated liquid effluent from the septic tank percolates through the pipes and is gradually released into the surrounding soil. This final stage allows for additional filtration and biological treatment as the soil naturally absorbs and further purifies the effluent.

It's important to note that maintaining a proper balance in your Klargester septic tank is crucial for its effectiveness. Regular emptying, typically recommended every 12 to 18 months, ensures that accumulated solids do not reach levels that could compromise the system's functionality. Additionally, avoiding the disposal of non-biodegradable items and harsh chemicals into the system helps maintain the natural biological processes occurring in the septic tank.

Klargester septic tanks are known for their durability and longevity. Constructed from high-quality materials, these tanks are designed to withstand the test of time, providing a long-term solution for your sewage treatment needs.

One of the key advantages of a Klargester septic tank is its simplicity and ease of maintenance. The system operates through natural biological processes, reducing the need for complex mechanical components. This not only makes maintenance more straightforward but also contributes to the system's overall reliability. Regular septic tank emptying, typically recommended every 12 to 18 months, ensures that the system remains efficient and prevents the accumulation of solids that could lead to potential issues.

Klargester septic tanks offer environmental benefits as well. The natural treatment processes within the tank promote the breakdown of organic matter, reducing the environmental impact of sewage disposal. The treated effluent released into the drainage field undergoes further filtration through the soil, contributing to the overall sustainability of the system.

Whether you have a small residential property or a larger commercial establishment, Klargester systems can be tailored to suit the specific needs of different properties, accommodating varying household sizes and usage patterns.

Caring for your Klargester septic tank is essential to prevent potential issues and ensure the smooth operation of your wastewater system. While the general recommendation is to have your septic tank emptied every 12 to 18 months, it's crucial to consider various factors that may influence the optimal frequency for your specific situation. Take a moment to assess the size of your household – larger families tend to generate more wastewater, potentially requiring more frequent tank emptying. Your water usage habits will also play a significant role; if you're consistently using a substantial amount of water, it might be necessary to empty the tank more frequently.

Furthermore, the size of your septic tank matters. Smaller tanks may fill up more quickly, necessitating more regular maintenance. Keep in mind the types of solids and chemicals that enter your tank – excessive use of non-biodegradable items or harsh chemicals can impact its capacity. Regular inspections can help you stay ahead of potential issues, ensuring your Klargester septic tank operates efficiently and minimising the risk of costly repairs.

A Klargester septic tank disposes of the sewage and wastewater from your property. It collects the wastewater from your property and separates the solids from the liquids, and then any leftover effluent is discharged into a drainage field or soakaway.

There are two different types of septic tanks, each with their own benefits and suitability to different properties and individual requirements.

The Alpha Klargester septic tank

One of the most popular Klargester septic tanks, the Alpha tank is light, watertight, and particularly strong. Thanks to its shape the tank is easy to handle and install and has a subtle visual impact that many people find desirable.

Gamma Klargester septic tanks

If you’re looking for a more environmentally friendly choice, look no further than the Gamma Klargester septic tank. It is easy to install, durable, strong and lightweight.

Sewage pumping stations are needed when gravity cannot be relied upon to move wastewater and sewage towards the main sewer line. Perhaps there is a lack of gravitational flow if, for example, the sewage is situated below the main sewer level and would need to be pumped upwards. Maybe the sewer is obstructed by a ridge or there is no gravity system in place. In these circumstances, installing a sewage pump station could be much cheaper and just as effective as installing a sewage system with gravitational flow.

You’ll find many advantages to having a sewage pump station installed at your property. They are fitted with alarms that will notify you if there are any problems with the system. Sewage pump stations also work automatically so there is minimal human contact. This reduces the risk of health issues.

The first cost to consider is for the sewage pump station itself. And this will vary greatly depending on the specific model you chose. Whether you need a single or double sewage pump station, you’ll find our prices at Tanks Direct are extremely competitive.

Then comes the cost of installation. If you are installing a pump for the first time in a space previously unprepared for installation, the cost will be higher than if you are replacing an existing pump. This is because all the additional preparation required has already been done. The location of your install could also have a bearing on the installation cost. If the site is awkward to get to or a difficult material to dig up, your costs will be higher.

You’ll also want to consider the ongoing maintenance costs of sewage pump stations. Regular servicing is essential to keep your equipment working as well as possible. Sewage pumping stations are subject to wear and tear and require regular servicing to operate effectively. Catching any issues early will minimise the risk of failure and help prevent costly repairs.

It is vitally important that your sewage pump station is regularly serviced and properly maintained. This will improve the day-to-day efficiency of your sewage treatment pump and help improve its lifespan. By inspecting the pump regularly, you can ensure all the components are working correctly

It is advisable to get your tank serviced once a year. Your tank will be emptied and cleaned, with any blockages removed. If any defects are detected during the service, it’s best to get faulty parts

replaced as soon as possible. Failure to fix problems quickly can lead to major issues further down the line. For help and advice on how best to maintain your sewage treatment plant, please contact our friendly and knowledgeable team.

Sewage pumping stations can vary in noise levels, but they generally produce some degree of noise. The noise from a sewage pumping station primarily comes from the mechanical equipment used to pump wastewater, such as pumps, motors, and control systems. These machines can generate a humming, buzzing, or whirring sound, which can be audible depending on several factors. Larger pumps typically produce more noise than smaller ones. Modern stations often incorporate soundproofing materials and construction techniques to help minimise noise pollution. Most sewage pumping stations are designed to operate around the clock, but you may find that noise is more noticeable during quiet times, such as during the night, when ambient noise levels are lower.

Local regulations and community planning may dictate the noise levels allowed for sewage pumping stations. Authorities often set limits to ensure that these facilities do not become a significant source of noise pollution in residential areas.

Sewage pumping stations are designed to transport and pump wastewater, which can contain organic matter and sewage, leading to the potential for odours. However, the intensity and prevalence of these odours can vary widely. Well-designed systems incorporate features to minimise odours, such as properly sealed access points and ventilation systems that help disperse or filter out odorous gases. Regular maintenance of these systems, including cleaning and inspection, is crucial to ensure their effectiveness in controlling odours. Smaller domestic sewage pumping stations may generate fewer odours compared to larger, industrial-scale facilities. This is because the volume of wastewater and the concentration of organic matter are typically lower in residential systems. Warm and humid weather can intensify odours, making them more noticeable, and windy conditions can disperse odours and make them less perceptible. If the pumping station is located close to your home or living areas, you may be more likely to detect any odours, especially if there are issues with the station's design, maintenance, or ventilation.

Many local regulations and building codes require domestic sewage pumping stations to incorporate odour control measures to minimise any potential nuisances to nearby residents. These measures may include odour-neutralising chemicals or filters in the ventilation system.

Sewage pumps are typically designed to operate intermittently rather than continuously. The duration a sewage pump can run continuously will vary. Smaller domestic sewage pumps are generally not built for continuous operation and are meant to pump wastewater as needed. Larger, industrial-grade pumps may have the capacity and durability to run continuously for extended periods, but even they may require periodic rest to prevent overheating and wear. Domestic sewage pumps are designed to handle typical household or small-scale sewage flows. If the pump has to handle a sudden surge or an unusually high volume of wastewater, it may not be designed for continuous operation under such conditions.

Continuous operation can lead to heat build-up in the pump's motor and components and overheating can cause damage or reduce the pump's lifespan. Pumps are usually designed with cooling mechanisms, but they may still need breaks to dissipate heat effectively. Regular maintenance can extend a pump's operational duration. Always consult the manufacturer's guidelines and specifications for your specific sewage pump. These guidelines often include recommended operating durations and intervals for rest. Following these recommendations is essential to ensure the pump's longevity and efficient operation.

Your sewage pump should not run constantly. Usually it should run from 10 to 15 seconds until the float switch detects the water level has dropped adequately. It will then cut off. If your sewage pump is running constantly it may need to be serviced, repaired or replaced. The average life expectancy of a sewage pump is about 10 years.

In our 2” vortex range we use Hippo 50 pumps for up to 6m head and Hippo 100 pumps for up to 10m head. In our 2” macerator range we use Semison 125GR pumps, in our 2½” vortex range we use Semison 650 pumps and lastly in our 3” vortex range we use hippo 80-200. Details of which can be found either on our website or a copy can be sent across please call for more information.

You may need to service or replace your sewage pump is you find the following: -

• If the water at the discharge point is dirty or brown
• The pump is not working at all or sounds like it’s struggling to pump
• Your pump is constantly running and doesn’t switch off even though no one is using the facilities in the building
• Sewage is backed up into the building
• There is a smell of sewage
• There is no fluid emptying from the holding tank
• There is no power to the pump

If you do require a Service, please give a ring to arrange.

Yes, it is cost effective to get your sewage pump regularly maintained to lengthen the life of the pump. Typically pump servicing will include: -

• Cleaning out the sump chamber
• Cleaning of pumps and float switch
• Electrical test of pumps and all floats
• Checking all cables for damages and general wear

The size of the pump required is down to the rise to main from the tank to the sewer, please call us for further help on this.

Tanks are sized on the number of people using the system, you should allow 150 litres per person multiplied by the number of people using the property to calculate your 24hr storage capacity.

For commercial properties please contact us, and we can help size this for you. 

No the tanks are supplied without an inlet hole, this is usually drilled on site however we do supply the seal to make the hole water tight and should you require us to drill this for you at the factory, we can offer this also.

Sewage pumps are available in a few different options including effluent pumps, grinder pumps or macerator pumps and submersible pumps. Effluent pumps remove the grey wastewater that stays in your septic tank after the solids have settled and are good for residential and small commercial applications.

Grinder pumps or macerator pumps collect wastewater from your household appliances and fixtures including toilets, washing machines, and bathtubs. Grinder or macerator pumps works by the pump grinding the waste into a fine slurry before pumping it to your septic tank when the water in the tank reaches a certain level from a holding tank to collect waste. Submersible pumps are used for residential, commercial, and agricultural applications.

If you are unsure of the type of sewage pump you need, we are more than willing to help. Please give us a call or send us an email.

The job of your silt trap is to prevent any unwanted materials, like silt, soil and sediment, from entering your water storage system. Before entering the drainage system, water is directed into the silt trap — a basin-type container that is placed in the upstream of your soakaway crate. The water is temporarily contained in the trap where the silt and sediment settles to the bottom, leaving the filtered water at the top. The invert of the pipe sits just above where the sump settles below, allowing the filtered water to continue to the drainage system, leaving the silt behind.

Without a silt trap, silt and debris would enter your water storage system and cause costly damage. If water cannot drain away you risk causing flooding and your system’s ability to remove water could be affected, clogging pipes or filling soakaway systems, reducing their capacity for holding water.

All silt traps have the same purpose — to keep a soakaway system free from silt and sediment. But different types of silt traps are better for different types of systems. The primary difference between the different types of silt traps is the size of the area covered by your system. That’s why silt traps come in a range of sizes, so make sure you choose one that is suitable for your needs. Naturally, the larger the area your water storage system is serving, the larger your silt trap should be. You will also want to consider the type of environment. At Tanks.ie, we stock a range of car wash silt traps that offer effective silt removal for car wash facilities or any areas with particularly high silt run-off.

Silt and debris will build up in your silt trap, so it’s important that it is regularly cleaned and maintained. Failure to do so can, at best, result in them becoming ineffective or, worse, eventually lead to an entirely blocked drainage system. The ‘basket’ of your silt trap can usually be easily removed to allow you to clean it and then put it back. The instructions will vary between each silt trap so it’s important to refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Glass Reinforced Plastic tanks are made from high quality GRP material manufactured to BS EN 13280:2001, are suitable for all cold water applications, insulated tanks are also suitable for external applications, and are fully WRAS approved.

Most GRP tanks are supplied fully pre-insulated with PU foam fully encapsulated within the GRP laminate, GRP tanks come in a wide range of standard sizes and can also be supplied bespoke to suit your specific size and configuration requirements.

An AG type airgap provides mains water protection from fluid category 1-4 with standard lid arrangement for an inlet float valve fitted in the body of the tank, and an AB type air gap, also known as category 5, is when a raised float valve housing is fitted with a spill over weir in addition to the overflow in the body of the tank.

1 & 2 piece tanks are available from 90 to 12,000 litres, sectional tanks can be supplied from 125 to 2,000,000 litres. Usually where access permits a 1 piece can be used without any assembly needed, if access is restricted a 2 piece tank can be installed and the top and bottom halved bolted together on site. Sectional tanks are for where access restrictions or other conditions deny the installation of one and two piece tanks. They comprise of individual bolt-up panels which are assembled on site.

A float valve will usually be sized to suit your incoming mains water supply, so if you have a 25 mm incoming mains you will need a 1” float valve. If we supply the float valve with your tank we will size and supply the overflow to suit this.

The Water Regulation Advisory Scheme sets legal requirements for the design, installation, operation and maintenance of plumbing systems, water fittings and water-using appliances. These Regulations and Bye laws apply in all types of premises supplied, or to be supplied with water by a water company. All of our insulated GRP tanks are fully WRAS approved, so can be connected to a mains cold water supply. These regulations do not apply where a property uses a private water supply and does not have a supply of water from a water company.

Our GRP tanks are usually supplied without any connections, as many customers supply and fit their own. However we can supply a comprehensive range of items including inlet float valves, outlet connections and other fittings to suit your individual application. Please contact us to discuss or request a quote for your requirements.

If you require a booster pump, you must fit a break tank to the incoming mains water supply to connect to the pump set. Our GRP tanks are ideal for break tanks. We can supply a wide range of booster sets where a break tank is needed.

Yes, we can supply a quote for cleaning existing tanks. We can also arrange to clean and disinfect newly installed tanks as part of the supply and assembly service on all new 1, 2 & sectional tanks.

A septic tank is the first stop for the wastewater that leaves your home. The waste is held in the tank, where it goes through the process of separating the solids from the liquids before filtering water into your drainage field. The best type of septic tank for your house will depend on several variables – from your property’s square footage to the number of bedrooms and number of people using the system.

The larger your house, the larger septic tank you’ll probably need. And the more occupants in your home, the bigger the tank you’ll need. A small septic tank will probably suffice if you only have two people living in your property – but if you have a large family, of five or more people living in your home, you’ll need a larger septic tank to manage all the household waste hygienically and effectively.

It's also important to consider the following: Do you have two kitchens? Or multiple bathrooms and ensuites? Do you have, or plan to have, a hot tub or a swimming pool? All of these will increase the demand on your septic tank.

If you sell a property with a septic tank that discharges directly into a watercourse, you should agree with the buyer who will be responsible for replacing or upgrading the treatment system. You should agree this as a condition of sale. You must also provide the buyer with a description of the treatment plant and drainage system, the location of the main parts of the treatment plant, the drainage system and discharge point, how the treatment plant should be maintained, and any details of any changes made to the treatment plant and drainage system while you were the owner of the property. You’ll also want to give the new owners the maintenance manual and maintenance records if you have them.

Selling a property without a septic tank installed or with a septic tank that is non-compliant with the government’s general binding rules will not only detract potential buyers but may also be subject to enforcement action by the Environment Agency. You can find details of the latest regulations surrounding septic tanks on the government’s website here.

Rainwater must not enter your septic tank. Make sure that the downpipes and drains that carry rainwater are not connected to your septic tank. Your tank is sized to deal with a specific volume of wastewater – ensuring the sewage remains in the septic tank long enough for all the solid waste to settle at the bottom. If rainwater enters the tank, the flow rate increases, and adequate settlement does not occur. As a result, the effluent would contain so many suspended solids that it would very quickly compromise the soakaway, and the contents of the tank will be washed out before they’ve been broken down, causing pollution and health hazards. Septic tanks and sewage treatment systems must only be connected to grey and black water drains, such as toilets, sinks, showers, baths, washing machines, and dishwashers. If you’re looking to manage rainfall and surface water, consider installing a rainwater harvesting system. 

Septic tanks, when properly maintained, can serve you well for several decades. A well-constructed septic tank can last anywhere from twenty to forty years or even longer, making it a worthwhile investment for your property. But to maximise the lifespan of your septic tank, you should schedule routine inspections and emptying. This preventative maintenance helps remove accumulated sludge and scum, preventing them from clogging the system and causing damage. Neglecting these maintenance tasks can drastically reduce your septic tank's lifespan, leading to costly repairs or replacements sooner than expected. You should avoid flushing non-biodegradable items, excessive grease, or chemicals down the drain, as these can harm the system and lead to premature deterioration. Educate yourself and your household on septic-friendly practices to ensure your system remains in good working condition for many years to come.

The type of soil and climate in your area may also impact the lifespan of your septic tank. In areas with dense clay soils, for instance, the tank may fill up faster. Harsh weather conditions can also affect the tank's structural integrity, so it's essential to take these factors into account and adapt your maintenance schedule accordingly.

Recognising signs early that your septic tank is full and in need of emptying is essential to maintaining the health of your septic tank system. One noticeable sign that your septic tank may be getting full is slow drainage throughout your plumbing fixtures. You might notice that sinks, showers, and toilets are slower to drain than usual. Water may back up or gurgle in drains, indicating that your septic system is struggling to handle the volume. As the tank fills, it has less capacity to contain and treat the waste properly, so you may notice foul odours in and around your property. The most inconvenient and obvious sign of a full septic tank is sewage backups inside your home. If toilets or drains are consistently backing up or becoming clogged, it's a clear indication that your septic tank is overloaded and needs immediate attention.

Another indicator is a vibrant, lush patch of grass or vegetation over your drain field. When the tank reaches its capacity and cannot properly process wastewater, the excess effluent may fertilise the surrounding soil, causing grass and plants to thrive more than usual. Standing water or soggy areas in your garden, especially around the septic tank or drain field, can also signal that your septic tank is full or experiencing issues. This pooling occurs when the tank is unable to absorb and distribute wastewater efficiently. If you notice these wet areas persisting, it's essential to address the situation promptly to prevent further damage to your septic system.

You would only need to upgrade your septic tank if the run off discharges to a water course.

Standard soak aways are still legal.

Your tank should be emptied once a year so that you do not risk a build up of sludge which can lead to problems with your system. The company you use to empty your septic tank must be registered to do so.

Owners of properties connected to larger on-site systems where the discharge is in excess of 5 cubic metres per day do not need to register (i.e sports clubs, pubs, hotels, guesthouses and other businesses).  Instead such systems may require a licence from the relevant local authority under Section 4 of the Water Pollution Act 1997. 

You should have your septic tank system regularly maintained in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. If these are not available, ask your local maintenance company for advice. This will save costly repairs or replacement of the sewage system in the long term.

When buying a septic tank is good to consider the following questions:-

• Is a septic tank the correct solution to meet your requirements? It may be that instead of a septic tank, you need a sewage treatment plant.
• Have you undertaken a Percolation Test? A percolation test is a method of assessing how much water can drain away through your plot’s subsoil. It is performed by excavating a small area and monitoring the time taken for the water to drop in minutes per inch. The final decision will often be determined by drainage options – i.e. do you have access to mains drainage or a water course?

Homeowners with septic tanks that discharge directly into ditches, streams, canals, rivers, surface water, drains or any other type of water course will need to replace or upgrade their drainage either when they sell their property or as soon as possible.

• Don’t flush anything other than bodily waste and toilet paper down the toilet
• Don’t dispose of grease or oil down any drain – wipe out pans and pour fat into a container to be disposed of in the bin
• Don’t put paints, solvents or chemicals down the drain
• Don’t try to unblock pipes with caustic soda or drain cleaners. Try boiling water instead
• Don’t connect rainwater pipes to your septic tank

If your current system discharges directly into a water course, you will need to upgrade your system. To go through your options give us a call, and we can talk you through the various options.

Yes we offer the full range of Klargester replacement parts, please see our wastewater accessories category 

If your septic tank system is in good working order you should have the following:

• Your household drainage should be quick to clear, and toilets should not be backing up
• There should be no smell from your tank and the cover should be accessible and well fitting
• The soak away should be dry not swampy, smelly or have prolific grass growth
• A pale liquid with little or no smell should come from the discharge pipe. It should not be dark, smelly or contain solids
• Makes sure to keep deep-rooted trees and plants at least 30 m away from your system. Keep the grass nearby short.

If any of the above is showing signs that your septic tank system is not in proper working order, you must get it repaired or replaced by a credited installer.

There are 3 options available:

(1) Connect to a main sewer if possible
(2) install a drainage field or
(3) install a sewage treatment plant which treats the wastewater, producing a clear overflow that is environmentally friendly and suitable for discharging.

To see our full range of sewage treatment plants click here

If your septic tank system is not in good working order it can be a serious risk to both health and the environment. You also have a legal responsibility to maintain your septic tank system. In looking after your septic tank system, it will have to be emptied less frequently, saving you money. A septic tank system can also be costly to replace if it fails.

Yes you need to register your septic tank with your Local Authority – click here to register https://www.protectourwater.ie/. There is a charge of €50 to register.

If you own a property which you rent, or you are a tenant yourself, it can become a little less clear who has the responsibility to empty the septic tank. Maintenance and responsibility can be written into the tenancy agreement. If you are a landlord renting out a property with a septic tank you may need to put measures in place if you want the tenant to take responsibility for the septic tank. You may need an inspection or service after the end of any tenancy period. As a tenant, if it is written into the tenancy agreement that you have responsibility for the septic tank, you might also want to insist upon an inspection to ensure you aren’t inheriting any issues you would then be liable to pay for is one way to do this. Checking the schedule of maintenance and the obligations is another before any serious issues can occur. Following the guidelines of the septic tank is important too.

Septic tanks should be at least 7 metres away from any dwelling. They should also be located within 30 metres of an access point so that the tank can be emptied.

If you do not have sufficient area required to discharge the run out from a septic tank, you would need a cesspool which requires emptying on a 40 day cycle. Please contact us for help if required.

A sewage treatment plant is a facility designed to treat wastewater and sewage from homes, businesses, and industries to make it safe for disposal or reuse.

A typical sewage treatment plant consists of several components, including a screening chamber, grit chamber, primary sediment tank, biological treatment tanks, and secondary sediment tank.

There are a whole host of benefits if you decide to invest in a domestic wastewater plant. These benefits include:

• Environmentally friendly – domestic wastewater treatment plants use natural biological processes to break down sewage and safely process harmful compounds. This reduces pollution and is vital for protecting the local flora and fauna.
• Preserves your drainage field, unlike a septic tank which only holds solids and therefore the treatment occurs in the drainage field, leading to a high risk of ground pollution. The risk of a failed soakaway is much higher with a septic tank. 
• Safety – untreated sewage, or old sewage systems can release hazardous materials into your local watercourses. 
• A sewage treatment plant actually treats the wastewater and you can sample it to see whether it’s working correctly.
• A long term solution - Most modern plants also have a long lifespan and are a solid investment for any property. 
• Efficiency – the overall treatment process is efficient at breaking down sewage and there is a far lower chance of suffering annoying blockages.

It is important to have a sewage treatment plant to prevent environmental pollution, protect public health and promote sustainable water use.

One of the most important factors in determining the choice of sewage treatment product is the site’s drainage properties. Both septic tanks and sewage treatment plants typically require a drainage field into which they discharge effluent. Testing the ground for its permeability is usually done by a professional installer using a percolation test; the correct procedure is described in BS 6297 Note: your property will need to be located on the highly permeable ground if you want to install a septic tank otherwise the drainage field will fail.

The propensity of the site to flood and the height of the water table are also important considerations. The water table must be at least one metre below a septic tank outlet. In this instance, and if your property is in a flood risk area, you will need to install a sewage treatment plant.

A soakaway, also known as an infiltration system, is a type of drainage system used to manage surface water runoff. It consists of a pit or trench filled with gravel, stone, or other porous materials that allow water to percolate through them and into the ground.

Soakaways are typically used in areas where the soil has good drainage characteristics, and they are often used to manage water from roof gutters, surface water drains, or other impermeable surfaces. The idea is that the water is directed into the soakaway, where it slowly percolates into the surrounding soil, reducing the amount of runoff and preventing flooding.

A soakaway is a large hole dug into the ground, filled with stones, that manage the effluent and surface water by collecting, treating, and cleansing it, before letting it drain slowly back into the environment.

You do not necessarily need a soakaway for a sewage treatment plant ­– only for a septic tank. This is because the water released by a septic tank has only gone through one stage of treatment and is still hazardous to the environment. It is therefore important that water from a septic tank undergoes further treatment and cleansing in a soakaway before being safely released into the environment.

In a sewage treatment plant, the wastewater has already been through at least two stages of treatment and is therefore safe to be released directly back into the environment.

A domestic sewage treatment plant works by breaking down solid waste to produce a cleaner, more environmentally friendly effluent. Wastewater and sewage are supplied to the primary tank, where the solids separate and from the liquid and then flows into the biozone chamber. Here, a pump airs the waste and friendly bacteria is used to condense the organic matter, breaking it down. When the waste leaves the final waste chamber, it is 95% clean and ready for dispersal into soakaway systems, subject to consent from the relevant environmental agency.

The solid waste generated in the sewage treatment process, also known as sewage sludge, is typically treated further through processes such as anaerobic digestion or composting, and then can be disposed of or used as a fertilizer.

Yes, treated wastewater can be reused for a variety of purposes, such as irrigation, industrial processes, and even as a source of drinking water in some cases.

Sewage treatment plants work by separating wastewater from solid waste in a settlement chamber. Gravity causes the heavier, solid waste to sink to the bottom of the tank so that the wastewater can be treated before being released into the environment. The solid at the bottom of the tank, referred to as sludge, builds up reducing the available volume and space in the tank for the wastewater treatment process. Your tank will become less effective and will eventually fail causing problems.

For this reason, your sewage treatment tank will need emptying periodically ­– a process known as desludging. How often you de-sludge your tank will depend on the type of system you have as sludge build up varies between systems. We recommend you use a registered and licensed waste collection company who will be fully insured to handle the sludge. They will visit your site, remove the sludge from your sewage treatment plant tank, and take it away for disposal.

Although instructions are supplied with each of our products, installing a sewage treatment plant is no small feat and we do not recommend installing one yourself unless you are 100% confident you know what you’re doing. There are lots of health and safety issues to consider when excavating holes and if your sewage treatment plant is installed incorrectly you could find yourself in a nasty mess – both physically, financially, and legally.

Hiring a professional contractor to do the installation will give you complete peace of mind. Your sewage treatment plant will be installed safely, efficiently, and perhaps most importantly, it will be legally compliant. Be aware there are different rules relating to the installation of sewage treatment plants depending on whether you are based in England, Scotland, Wales, or Northern Ireland. You may need to apply for a Consent to Discharge from the Environment Agency – a licence that says that your wastewater is clean enough to release into the environment and not damage local wildlife.

A well-maintained sewage treatment plant should not give off any bad smells. They are designed to contain any naturally occurring odours that arise during the treatment process. If your sewage treatment plant has an unpleasant odour it is important to investigate the cause.

It could be that your tank is full and needs emptying. Check the levels of sludge in your tank and arrange for the tank to be emptied if necessary.

Clogged vents could also be the cause of odours. The vents in sewage treatment plants allow toxic and flammable methane gases present in the waste to escape. Check the vent isn’t clogged with waste, snow, ice, or an animal’s nest.

Bad smells can also be caused by contamination in your sewage treatment plant. Harsh chemicals, grease or fat will all interfere with the natural enzymes in your plant that work to break down the sewage. 

Sewage treatment plants don’t require much upkeep, but it is important to keep them properly maintained and serviced. They will need emptying periodically, a process known as ‘desludging’, by a registered and licensed waste collection company. Treat your sewage treatment plant properly and it could last up to twenty years. If they are misused or not properly maintained, their lifespan will reduce significantly.

To keep your domestic sewage treatment plant working for as long as possible, pay attention to what you are flushing down the toilet and washing down the sink. Do not flush kitchen roll, food waste, nappies, baby wipes, grease, fats and oils or sanitary products down the drain and careful with the volume of cleaning agents and detergents you are using as these can sometimes overload the system. Areas with softer water will require weaker cleaning products than hard water areas. It’s also beneficial to get your sewage treatment plant regularly serviced, where a professional will come out and inspect your system and identify any potential issues before they get worse.

A well-designed and properly maintained sewage treatment plant can have positive environmental impacts by reducing water pollution and protecting aquatic ecosystems. However, if not properly managed, a sewage treatment plant can also have negative impacts such as odours, noise pollution and emissions of greenhouse gases. With our Klargester BioDisc we remove all these negative impacts with our top of the range sewage treatment plant.

Commercial sewage treatment plants are large-scale waste removal systems for commercial properties that are either in a rural area or can’t be connected to the public sewage network. As they are entirely independent, they use a process that breaks down the waste into a clean product that can be directly discharged directly into the environment without harming the local habitat.

They function in the same way as domestic sewage treatment plants, but are designed to cope with a much higher volume of sewage. Commercial sewage treatment plants have a motor, powered by a generator or other electrical source, that circulates air within the system. Naturally occurring bacteria use this air to break down the wastewater in the system. This destroys the harmful substances in the waste, and, after several stages of treatment, the wastewater is clean enough to be pumped into the local environment.

Initially the waste goes through a pre-treatment stage, that removes large objects and solids. The waste is then pumped into a settlement zone, where liquids rise to the top and larger substances collect at the bottom thanks to their different densities. Bacteria starts to break down harmful substances and the sludge that forms at the foot of the tank is periodically removed. The remaining liquid is then ‘cleaned’ by a process known as ‘biological treatment’, where aerobic bacteria use the oxygen circulated by the motor to break down more harmful substances. Finally, the wastewater goes through a final round of cleansing to kill any remaining harmful substances that remain. This may involve chemicals to ensure the water is as clean as possible before it’s discharged. 

Commercial sewage treatment plants function in much the same way as domestic sewage treatment plants but are designed to cope with a much higher volume of sewage. Commercial sewage treatment plants can service business and commercial properties where 50 or more people go to work. In contrast, domestic sewage treatment plants would usually only deal with household waste from up to four or five people.

You’ll want to choose a commercial sewage treatment system based on the size of the premises and the number of people using the facilities. But don’t go too small! It might save you money in the short term to buy a smaller system, but if you need to upgrade to a larger system in the future it will cost you.

It is important to keep any sewage treatment plant properly serviced and maintained, but with commercial sewage treatment plants professional maintenance may be required more often and require specialty maintenance to ensure everything is working as it should.

Sewage treatment plants are robust and effective and offer many benefits over some other methods of sewage treatment such as septic tanks and cesspits. But how much does a commercial sewage treatment plant cost? There are several costs to consider.

The sewage treatment plant

The price of your commercial sewage treatment plant will depend on a variety of factors. Get in touch and we will listen to understand your requirements and help you choose the best plant for your commercial premise.

Cost to install

The cost of installing your commercial sewage treatment plant will depend on whether you’re installing a brand new system or upgrading an existing one, as well as which plant you have chosen and where the plant is being installed. 

Annual service

You’ll need an annual service to ensure the ongoing performance of your commercial sewage treatment plant. The cost will depend on your equipment and location.

Emptying

Sewage treatment plants need to be periodically ‘de-sludged’.

• Primary wastewater treatment

The primary treatment of wastewater removes material that will either float to the top or settle to the bottom. The wastewater is temporarily held in a settling tank where the heavier solids sink to the bottom and lighter bits float to the surface. Once settled, these solids are held back while the rest of the liquid is moved through to the secondary phase of wastewater treatment.

• Secondary wastewater treatment

A deeper and more rigorous secondary phase of wastewater treatment uses aerobic biological processes to substantially degrade the biological content of the waste, reducing common biodegradable contaminants down to safe levels. There are three ways to do this: biofiltration that uses filters to ensure that any additional sediment is removed from the wastewater, aeration which increases oxygen saturation by introducing air to wastewater and oxidation ponds that allow wastewater to pass through natural bodies of water for a set period before being retained for two to three weeks.

• Tertiary wastewater treatment

Tertiary wastewater treatment aims to improve water quality to meet domestic and industrial standards. It involves removing pathogens to ensure water is safe for drinking

Although the two are often mistaken as the same thing, there are some distinct differences between the two. A sewage treatment plant creates a clean, environmentally friendly effluent which can be discharged directly to a watercourse. They often require electricity to operate and need regular servicing and emptying. A septic tank only needs emptying once a year, doesn’t use any electricity and doesn’t require servicing. However, they produce a very polluting waste product, which must be dispersed to a soakaway and the septic pollutants go through further handling by the natural aerobic soil bacteria.

It is strongly recommended that a suitably trained and qualified professional installs your sewage treatment plant. You could be faced with hefty repair costs, fines and even legal issues (that will be far greater than the cost of hiring a professional installer) if any part of your private sewage system is installed incorrectly. If you are confident you have the skills to do this yourself you should have step by step instructions on how to do it from the manufacturer of your chosen tank, plus all the health and safety measures that should be taken. The following will give you a brief guide on what will be involved in the install, but always ensure you adhere to the manufacturer’s guidance as some steps may vary.

• Inspect tank for damage

Although our tanks will have been fully tested and checked before being dispatched to you, make sure to thoroughly inspect the tank for any damage caused during transportation as, once the tank is installed, we may not be able to accept your return.

• Placing the tank

Ensure your hole is large enough for the both the tank and the recommended backfill. Prepare a base for the tank and carefully lower the tank into the hole, using the recommended lifting system, checking that the inlet and outlet orientation is correct. Ensure your tank is level and use the correct backfill, which might be concrete, gravel or sand, but check the manufacturer’s manual to see what they advise and follow their steps for adding the backfill.

• Installing the inlet and outlet

Installing the inlet and the outlet should be straightforward, but it is always worth contacting a qualified plumber if you are unsure. Follow the manufacturer’s installation guide to connect the pipework. For easier maintenance access, some manufacturers advise the install of an inspection chamber before and after the treatment to make life easier should any problems arise in the future.

• Wire up the electrics

All electrical work should be conducted by a qualified electrician. The installation manual will detail what is required.

This is a very simplistic guide of what is required to install your sewage treatment plant. In addition to these steps, you may also need to install a soakaway to complete your system.

It is highly recommended that you fully understand and adhere to all the regulations that will affect your installation and running of a sewage treatment plant. If you are the property owner where the tank is being installed, this is your sole responsibility and you could be liable to heavy fines or repair costs if things are done incorrectly.

It is the level of the soil pipe entering the septic tank or treatment system.

If the flow from your system can not release without help, i.e. required to be uplifted you would need a pump to help with this.

It is estimated that nearly half a million tonnes of grease and fat enter the UK sewerage system each year, causing blockages and damage to pipes and wastewater equipment. Grease builds up inside pipes as it sticks to pipe walls and, if it enters a natural water course, fats, oils, grease and starch (FOGS) can seriously damage the environment. This damage is extremely costly to local authorities so proper management of FOGS is heavily enforced. Failure to effectively manage buildup could lead to heavy fines or even closure of commercial businesses.

Grease traps collect and reduce the number of FOGS entering the main sewers, helping to prevent drain blockages, bad smells and pest infestations. They can be located above or below ground, inside or outside your property, but positioned within the wastewater drain that connects your sinks and appliances to the sewer system. Fats and oils are much less dense than water, so they float to the top so, when wastewater enters a grease trap, it slows the water flow down significantly, separating solids to the bottom layer, wastewater in the middle and FOGS at the top. Wastewater is then allowed to flow into the sewer, while the FOGS are trapped.

Water and oil don’t mix. Animal fats and vegetable oils are much less dense than water, so they float to the top. In a grease trap, waste that flows through is slowed down and allowed a settlement period where solid waste sinks to the bottom and FOGS float to the top. A trap on the outlet prevents FOGS flowing through, permitting only the cleaner middle layer of wastewater to flow into the sewer system. Your grease trap needs to be properly maintained to ensure its continued effectiveness with regular cleaning required every two to four weeks by a licensed contractor.

Grease traps ensure grease and other build-up does not enter the main sewer system. Whether they’re attached to sinks, dishwashers or any other wastewater appliance that produce FOG, grease traps all perform the same basic function, with perhaps slightly different approaches. The size of the grease trap you’ll need will depend on the flow rate of the wastewater running through it — the higher the flow rate, the bigger the grease trap. At Tanks.ie we stock a wide range of grease traps in different size options to suit every flow rate.

Grease traps are a popular method of managing fats, oils and grease. At Tanks Direct we stock two types of grease traps for FOGS management — manual and automatic. Both do the same job of separating FOGS, solids and water within the tank, helping to prevent grease related issues. By slowing the flow of waste as it enters the grease trap and letting the wastewater cool, the elements naturally separate with solids sinking to the bottom, FOGS floating to the top and water remaining in the middle. What happens with each of these elements next is what differentiates a manual and automatic grease trap.

Manual grease traps are inexpensive and cheap to install. They simply contain and hold the FOGS until they are cleaned out. Automatic grease traps, also known as Automatic Grease Removal Units (or AGRUs), are more expensive than manual grease trap. However, automatic units systematically reheat and skim out the top layer of the tank where the FOGS sit, depositing it into a container where it can be disposed of easily. A separate filter catches any solid matter, which can be easily accessed and removed for disposal.

Damage to sewer systems from FOGS can be extremely costly to local authorities and so there is much legislation surrounding best practices and correct disposal of fats, oils and grease, particularly for commercial food premises. If your property is connected to the mains drainage system and you’re serving hot food to the public or your staff, Building Regulations (document H, section 2.21) state you should have a grease trap or another effective means of grease removal fitted.

If you operate a commercial kitchen, such as a café, a pub, a takeaway service, a restaurant, a bakery or a staff canteen, a grease trap could help you to effectively manage your FOGS.

Grease traps can generate flammable and toxic gases over time. These gases can include methane (natural gas), hydrogen sulfide, carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, and/or other gases depending on the greases, oils, and fats found in the grease traps. It is extremely important to the health of those that work near the grease trap that it is regularly cleaned and maintained.

By law, Irish Water now require that all food establishments obtain a license to discharge their wastewater into the public sewer.  To comply with this license, a grease trap must be installed, be regularly maintained to EU standards with records. It will be inspected regularly by Irish Water. In some counties, councils will specify that smaller domestic grease traps be installed in new one off houses or housing schemes. It is best practise to check with your local council as to what the requirements are in your area for a grease trap installation.

To find out more go to Irish Water

Yes, under current legislation, all food service establishments are required to have a licensed, serviced and well maintained grease trap which is sized according to the size of the establishment and the amount of food produced. This is regularly inspected by Irish Water.

To find out more go to Irish Water

The size of grease trap you require is determined by the amount of wastewater being discharged from the premises. The grease trap will be sized according to I.S. EN 1825 Parts 1 & 2 but it is important that it is not oversized.

Yes by law all food service establishments are required by Irish Water to have a licensed, regularly maintained and inspected grease trap. 

When a grease trap is full, excess grease solidifies at the top, forming a cap. With all that grease and dirt buildup it becomes hard for water to flow through the drain, leading to slow waste movement.

No. Legally, the fats, oils & grease that is removed from your grease trap can only be disposed of using a licensed waste removal contractor.

If your great trap is smelling, this may indicate that it needs to be pump and cleaned. If it has been more than a couple of months since your grease trap was last serviced this may be your first port of call. Another reason maybe improper ventilation on your grease trap / separator which is installed on larger units to allow air to circulate or it may be that some of the pipework or equipment going into the grease trap is broken. By regularly cleaning and inpecting your grease trap you should avoid the issue of unpleasant odours from your kitchen.

 A cesspool, also known as a cesspit, is an underground tank that collects wastewater and sewage. There is no outlet to disperse the waste or facility to treat it — it simply stores wastewater and sewage until it is collected by a tanker and taken away for disposal. They typically have a manhole for access and the only piping is to release gasses which accumulate in the tank. The contents of your cesspool must be removed regularly. How often will depend on the size of your tank and how much wastewater you are producing, but typically you will want your cesspool emptied by a licensed waste handler every month.

 You may need a cesspool if your property is not connected to a public sewer network or for holiday homes, camp sites and places where the discharge of effluent into the ground is not possible due to unsuitable soil conditions. You do not need a permit to install a cesspool unless the Environment Agency tells you that you do and they do not have to comply with the general binding rules that apply to septic tanks. However, you will need planning permission and building regulations approval to install your cesspool.

 A septic tank is buried underground, just like a cesspool. Unlike a septic tank however, a cesspool does not process or treat wastewater and sewage — it simply stores it. Septic tank systems treat the wastewater, treating the liquid wastewater so that it can drain away into a stream or soakaway. The system is simple but effective — wastewater enters a chamber where solids can settle and decompose at the bottom. The liquid at the top flows into a second chamber where any finer remaining solids are removed from the liquid and through to the soakaway. Solid waste from septic tanks will occasionally need collecting by a licensed disposal specialist, in much the same way as a cesspool, but much less often. That’s why having a cesspool can become quite costly long-term as waste disposal services don’t come cheap. Cesspools are also a less eco-friendly choice as untreated effluent could overflow into the surrounding environment. Septic tanks are safer as the wastewater is treated. 

Cesspools are usually used as a last resort or for temporary drainage situations. You may need a cesspool if your property isn’t connected to the public sewer network and where discharging effluent into the ground is not possible, such as holiday homes and camp sites. Cesspools do not have to comply with general binding rules that apply to septic tanks and you won’t need a permit to install one unless the Environment Agency tells you otherwise. It is important, however, to obtain planning permission and building regulations approval to install your cesspool.

 For septic tanks, the recent changes in regulations state that they can no longer discharge into surface water, for example streams, rivers, ditches, drains etc. and if yours does you should replace it immediately with a full sewage treatment plant .

A distribution box is used to divide the effluent flow from a septic tank into two or more percolation areas.

The distribution box is a major part of the septic system being able to function properly is very important. If the distribution box isn't working the right way you will soon be dealing with percolation field failure.

The septic system works by sending wastewater from your home through pipes that take it to a septictank. From there, the wastewater goes through more pipes to the distribution box. This distribution box distributes the wastewater evenly through field lines into the percolation area.

At Tanks.ie, we stock a range of different water tanks. From rainwater harvesting to wastewater treatment, there are water tanks designed for all types of water storage. The type of water tank you need will depend on what you plan to use it for.

If you are storing drinking water, you will need a potable water tank, like these GRP tanks. They are suitable for storing clean water that is fit for human consumption, prepping food and cleaning dishes. They meet government approved standards and regulations for the safe storage of drinking water. Non-potable water tanks store water that can be used for other purposes like flushing toilets and watering plants but is not safe for human consumption.

If you’re storing hazardous materials or liquids, check out our range of IBCs (Intermediate Bulk Containers) or if you’re working in the agricultural, farming or horticulture sector, you may want to have a look at our agricultural water tanks that are built to withstand the changeable outdoor environment. Our rainwater harvesting tanks are great for collecting and storing rainwater, that can then be used to flush your toilets and wash your clothes.

We have many more types of water tanks available at Tanks.ie. If you’d like any help and advice choosing your water tank, don’t hesitate to contact our friendly team.

There are many factors that can affect how long a water tank should last:

• Usage

The purer the water you’re storing in your tank, the longer your tank is likely to last. For example, if you’re storing salt water, there is a much higher risk of corrosion and damage to the tank. Clean water is much less likely to damage your tank.

• Materials

Most water tanks will be made from either plastic or metal. Plastic tanks are non-biodegradable so it shouldn’t break down over time. For this reason, you should use a specialist waste disposal company at the end of your tank’s life. A good quality polymer plastic water tank should last between ten and twenty years. Metal water tanks are usually made from steel which can be melted down and recycled at the end of its life. A steel tank should last over 30 years.

• Location

Where your tank is located could also affect its lifespan. If your water tank is stood in water, it could damage it, so try to ensure your tank is placed on a solid foundation. The UV treatment on plastic tanks can also be reduced if exposed to long hours of direct sunlight.

Water tank installation and replacement costs can vary greatly based on several factors. 

First, you’ll want to consider the cost of the tank itself. The bigger the tank, the bigger the price tag. The material the tank is made of will also impact the cost, with metal water tanks costing slightly more than plastic ones.

When it comes to the installation, underground water tanks generally cost more to install than above ground water tanks. Underground water tanks need an excavation crew to dig out the area where the tank will go, so you will need to factor in the cost of labour to do this. If you are installing a cold-water storage tank in an attic, the biggest challenge is getting the tank inside the loft through the loft hatch and removing the old tank. Ease and accessibility will play an enormous factor in the final cost.

Finally, you will need to consider the cost of a plumber to connect the pipes. If you’re wanting any additional add-ons for your water tank, such as booster pumps to increase the water pressure, there may be additional costs to consider.

We recommend consulting your local council and homeowners' association to ensure that your water tank installation meets all the required guidelines.

If the area you live in has hard water then, the chances are , you will benefit by installing a water softener. Some signs of hard water are staining on your sinks, toilets and bathtubs, limescale buildup on shower heads, kettles along with inside your washing machine, dishwasher and shower pumps. This can also lead to pipes and radiators clogging making your heating system work harder to push water through which in turn affects the efficiency of the boiler. Hard water makes soap and laundry detergent less effective and can make your skin and hair dry.

To see our range of water softeners click Water Softeners.

Hard water is water that has a high mineral content while percolating through rock which has deposits of limestone, chalk or gypsum. The higher level the mineral content, the harder the water. Hard water is very common in Ireland.

Yes, you can now buy home water tests to see how hard your water is. Generally, the following table will tell you how hard your water is:

Classification

Soft

0 – 17.1 Mg/L or ppm / 0 – 1 Grains per Gallon (gpg)

Slightly hard

17.1 – 60 Mg/L or ppm/ 1 – 3.5 Grains per Gallon (gpg)

Moderately hard

61 – 120 Mg/L or ppm/ 3.5 – 7.0 Grains per Gallon (gpg)

Hard

121 – 180 Mg/L or ppm/ 7.0 – 10.5 Grains per Gallon (gpg)

Very hard

180+ Mg/L or ppm/ 10.5+ Grains per Gallon (gpg)

By installing a water softener in your home you will see the following benefits:

• 100% limescale removed
• Washing machine works better with less detergent
• Hair and skin is softer
• Longer life on appliances such as kettles, dishwashers, washing machines and electric showers
• Helps saves on energy bills as water pipes are not clogged and hot water cylinders last longer. Also saves money on soaps and detergents as less are needed with soft water.

To see our range of water softeners please click Water Softeners

The average life expectancy is about 10 – 15 years depending on the system you purchase.

Generally, yes, softened water is okay to drink by healthy people but does contain a small amount of sodium. The harder the water that was softened, the higher the sodium content. People who are on a low sodium diet and babies should not drink softened water. If installed correctly, there should be one tap that is from the mains directly and not run through the water softener.

Home water softeners, also called ion exchange units, are appliances that remove calcium, magnesium, and other minerals from drinking water. Resin beads inside the softener trap the calcium and magnesium and exchange them for sodium or potassium. Once the resin beads become full of calcium and magnesium, a highly concentrated salt solution removes the calcium and magnesium from the beads. After passing through the beads, the resulting chloride solution becomes a waste stream that goes down the drain and ultimately into the environment.

Put simply, hard water enters the water softener through the main water pipes. The hard water flows into the water softener and into a mineral tank containing resin beads. The resin beads collect the minerals and substitute them with sodium ions that soften water. Captured minerals cling to the beads, leaving soft water to flow into the plumbing system. Salt is then used in a brine solution to clean the beads of the mineral and regenerate, flushing the minerals down the drain.

You can only use salt designed for water softeners. These come in crystals, blocks or pellets. The type of water softener will determine the type of salt that is to be used.

Because newer water softener models are more efficient with salt use, typically you only will need to add salt every 6-8 weeks. It is a good idea to check the salt tank regularly to make sure that it is full.

Reverse osmosis is a water purification process that uses a semi-permeable membrane (synthetic lining) to filter out unwanted molecules and large particles such as contaminants and sediments like chlorine, salt, and dirt from drinking water. In addition to removing contaminants and sediments, reverse osmosis can also remove microorganisms – which you certainly do not want to drink. It gets water clean down to a molecular level, leaving only pure water behind.

In reverse osmosis, an applied pressure is used to push the water from high concentration of contaminants to low concentration of contaminants. Water is forced in reverse and the contaminated water is trying to move into the pure water, but because it must pass through a filter first, the contaminants get trapped and only the pure water passes through; resulting in the cleanest possible drinking water.

Typically used in kitchens to remove impurities and give pure water. A modern tap and fittings are also supplied. 

Not only does our drinking water have contaminants in it, but fluoride and chlorine are also added. This can make our drinking water smell strongly and distasteful. By installing a reverse osmosis system you have great tasting drinking water. This means no more bottles water, better tasting food, tea and coffee. This can be used for baby making formula also.

To keep your water as pure as possible, the filters in the system will need to be changed on average every 6-12 months, depending on usage.

To buy your replacement filters please go to Reverse Osmosis Systems

If your reverse osmosis system is regularly serviced and the filters are changed on a regular basis, the system should last up to 10 years.

UV Disinfection is an economical, chemical-free and environmental way to safeguard drinking water against harmful bacteria. These units are designed to provide years of trouble-free operation with minimal maintenance, other than the recommended annual replacement of the UV lamps which Tanks.ie supply here.

This UV disinfection unit can be used on both mains water which may have bacterial contamination and well water which may become contaminated during different times of the year due to rainfall, septic tank and sewage leakage and animal waste.

If the water supply to your home is contaminated or not biologically safe, a UV disinfection unit may be the answer. As there are no chemicals such as chlorine used, there water tastes better also. The unit removes the harmful bacteria from your water making it safe to use.

UV light kills microorganisms in the water by penetrating the cell walls of bacteria, virus and protozoa and permanently alters the DNA making them unable to infect and reproduce.

• Safe and simple to install and use
• Instant treatment, no processing time
• No chlorine or other dangerous chemicals used and no residue left in the treated water
• Low maintenance and operating costs
• More environmentally friendly than harsh disinfection methods
• No change to the water properties
• Effective for destroying 99% of microorganisms

To see our full range of UV water treatment units click UV Disinfection Units

While there are many benefits, there are a few challenges to UV water treatment. UV light is only able to remove microorganisms but does not remove other contaminants like heavy metal, salts, chlorine, or man-made contaminants. To counteract these issues a UV disinfection unit should be used in conjunction with filtration to remove these contaminants.

UV lamps should be replaced every 12 months. UV lamps have a lifespan of around 9000 hours. As they are used, they slowly lose their effectiveness and will no longer kill the bacteria as required.

The replacement UV lamps can also be purchased on Tanks.ie – Replacement UV Lamps

UV light is normally effective against all viruses, bacteria and protozoa and kills 99% of water born microorganisms. However, some microorganisms such as Cryptosporidium and Giardia have protective or thick cell walls that some low power UV light systems are not able to penetrate.

There are three types of water bowsers: highways water bowsers, site water bowsers, and plant watering bowsers.

When you're responsible for maintaining the highways, a highway water bowser is an essential piece of equipment. These purpose-built water tanks are designed to efficiently store and transport large volumes of water, making them ideal for dust suppression and road surface maintenance. With their robust construction and manoeuvrability, highway water bowsers can easily access different areas of road to keep them in optimal condition.

Site water bowsers are portable water tanks designed to provide a steady and reliable water supply on site – right where you need it most. With their compact and manoeuvrable design, site water bowsers can be easily positioned in tight spaces or moved around the site as the project progresses. Their sturdy construction ensures durability, even in demanding environments, making them a dependable tool for dust suppression, concrete mixing, and equipment cleaning.

Perfect for tending to a garden, nursery, or any green space that demands consistent watering, plant watering bowsers are specialised water tanks that are purpose-built to meet the unique needs of plant irrigation and nurturing. With their large water capacities and precision dispensing systems, plant watering bowsers allow you to deliver the right amount of water directly to your plants, promoting healthy growth and minimising water wastage. Their easy-to-use features, such as adjustable nozzles and spray patterns, ensure you can tailor the watering process to suit different plant types and sizes.

Water bowsers provide a reliable and portable water supply wherever you need it. Whether you're on a construction site, agricultural field, or at a remote location, water bowsers ensure access to water without the need for a fixed water connection. Their mobility and ease of transportation make them essential for emergency situations and disaster relief efforts, ensuring a water source is readily available when it's most needed.

Water bowsers contribute to water conservation and efficient water usage. Equipped with high-quality valves and outlets, they enable controlled dispensing of water, minimising wastage, and optimising water distribution. This feature is particularly beneficial during water scarcity, where every drop counts. Additionally, water bowsers can be fitted with various accessories, such as spray nozzles or hoses, making them suitable for a wide range of applications, from dust suppression and irrigation to equipment cleaning.

Furthermore, investing in a water bowser can lead to cost savings and increased productivity. By having your own water supply on-site, you can avoid the expense of water deliveries or the inconvenience of relying on external sources. For agricultural purposes, water bowsers ensure timely and efficient irrigation, leading to healthier crops and improved yields. In construction and industrial settings, having a readily available water source can enhance operational efficiency and reduce downtime.

The need for planning permission for an underground water tank depends on various factors, and it's important to be aware of the specific regulations in your area. Typically, if the underground water tank is considered a "permitted development" you may not require planning permission. However, there are key considerations to keep in mind.

If your property is in a designated area, such as a conservation area or national park, there may be stricter regulations regarding construction, which could affect installing your underground water tanks. It's advisable to check with your local planning authority to determine if there are any specific rules or restrictions that apply to your property.

Smaller tanks for personal use are less likely to require planning permission, while larger tanks that could significantly impact your property or the surrounding area may trigger the need for approval. The specific size thresholds can vary by region, so it's crucial to consult with local authorities or planning experts.

Tanks used for rainwater harvesting, garden irrigation, or other non-commercial, non-industrial purposes are generally subject to fewer regulations than tanks used for more extensive operations or purposes. If you plan to use the tank for commercial or industrial applications, additional permits and regulations may apply.

The cost of installing an underground water tank can vary significantly depending on several factors. Smaller tanks designed for residential use will generally cost less than larger tanks intended for commercial or industrial applications. The material and type of tank you choose will also play a significant role in cost. Expect to pay more for high-quality, long-lasting tanks.

The method and complexity of installation can greatly affect the cost. Installing an underground tank may require excavation, additional site preparation, backfilling, and proper sealing. If you're planning to install the tank yourself, you might save on labour costs, but it's essential to ensure that the work meets safety and environmental standards. If your property has challenging terrain, rocky soil, or other obstacles, the installation cost may increase. Access to your property, as well as any necessary permits or inspections, can also contribute to the overall expense.

Additional features, such as filtration systems, pumps, and monitoring equipment, can add to the cost too. These components can enhance the functionality and efficiency of your underground water tank but come with their own price tags.

We’d advise obtaining multiple quotes from reputable installers and account for any additional costs such as maintenance, ongoing water quality testing, and compliance with local regulations. By doing so, you can get a more accurate estimate of the total cost to install an underground water tank that meets your requirements.

Placing the tank close to where you'll need the water reduces the need for extensive piping and minimises energy loss from pumping water over long distances. The tank should be installed in an area where it can be reached easily for any necessary repairs, inspections, or routine maintenance, and its location should allow for proper ventilation and access points to ensure safe entry when required.

Consider the water table level, as you'll want to avoid placing the tank in an area prone to flooding. Additionally, in areas with frost or extreme cold temperatures, it's advisable to install the tank below the frost line to prevent freezing. The soil type can also influence the tank's installation, as some soils may require more significant reinforcement to support the tank's weight.

Be sure to check with your local planning authority for any building or environmental regulations that might dictate where the tank can be placed. There may be specific setback requirements from property lines or structures, which could affect the tank's location on your property.

The ideal depth for an underground water tank depends on several factors, including local climate conditions and the purpose of the tank. In general, underground water tanks are typically installed at a depth substantial enough to help protect the tank from temperature fluctuations, prevent freezing in colder climates, and ensure stability. It is crucial to install the tank below the frost line to prevent the water from freezing. The frost line varies by location, so it's essential to consult with local authorities and professionals to determine the correct depth for your area. Installing the tank below this level ensures that the water remains unfrozen, maintaining the tank's integrity and preventing potential damage. If the water table is high in your area, it's important to ensure the tank is installed deep enough to prevent it from floating during periods of high groundwater. Additionally, the soil type may influence the tank's installation, as certain soils might require more reinforcement to support the tank's weight at a specific depth.

For rainwater harvesting or irrigation purposes, the tank can often be placed shallower, while tanks used for potable water may require deeper installation to meet water quality standards and ensure water safety.

Typically, well-maintained cold water storage tanks crafted from durable materials like polyethylene can last anywhere from 20 to 30 years. The high-quality construction of the tanks sold at Tanks.ie contributes significantly to their longevity, with resistance to corrosion and wear-and-tear ensuring reliable performance over an extended period.

Your proactive involvement in regular maintenance plays a crucial role in determining the lifespan of the tank. Timely inspections for signs of damage, leaks, or structural issues can significantly prolong the tank's functionality. Regularly checking fittings, valves, and the integrity of the tank structure is essential to catch and address potential issues before they escalate.

Exposure to extreme temperatures, UV radiation, or harsh chemicals can accelerate wear. Proper installation and placement in a sheltered, well-ventilated area contribute to the tank's overall resilience.

Insulating your cold-water storage tank is a wise decision with several benefits. The primary reason to insulate is to prevent heat loss from the water inside the tank. During colder seasons, especially in the Irish climate, uninsulated tanks can experience a drop in temperature, potentially leading to issues like freezing. Insulating your cold-water storage tank helps to maintain a more stable water temperature, reducing the risk of freezing and ensuring a reliable water supply.

By minimising heat loss, you can reduce the energy required to heat the water, which is particularly important if you have a water heating system connected to the tank. This energy-saving aspect not only promotes sustainability but also reflects positively on your utility bills, providing a cost-effective solution in the long run. Regulations often recommend or mandate specific insulation measures to enhance energy efficiency and prevent common issues associated with cold water storage. Ensuring your tank meets these regulations not only keeps you in compliance but also guarantees that your water system operates efficiently and safely.

A GRP tank is a tank made with Glass Reinforced Plastic (GRP). They are renowned for their remarkable strength-to-weight ratio, achieved through construction process that weaves tiny glass fibres into a web-like structure, before being fused with a special resin and catalyst. This creates a rock-solid composite material that can handle serious pressure and bumps. GRP tanks are also great at resisting corrosion. Unlike old metal tanks that rust, GRP naturally resists most chemicals and weather elements. Unlike some plastics that degrade under constant sun exposure, GRP tanks boast exceptional UV resistance making them ideal for outdoor storage applications without worrying about cracks or weakening.

While GRP tanks excel at water storage, their applications extend far beyond that. They can be used for safe containment of various chemicals, fuels, and even food products due to their non-contaminating properties. At Tanks Direct, we only stock the highest quality GRP tanks that are built to stand the test of time. Unlike some plastic tanks that get brittle over time, our GRP tanks stay strong and reliable for years. Plus, their smooth, non-porous surface makes cleaning and maintenance a breeze.

We understand you want a tank that can withstand the elements and years of use without succumbing to wear and tear. That’s why we offer a wide range of GRP tanks, renowned for their exceptional lifespan. Their impressive durability stems from their unique construction. Unlike traditional metal tanks that can rust, GRP tanks have a durable composite structure. Glass fibres, woven into a strong internal network, are infused with a specially formulated resin and catalyst. This creates a remarkably resilient material that resists pressure, impact, and the detrimental effects of time.

While a precise lifespan can vary depending on specific usage and environmental factors, GRP tanks are generally estimated to last for a minimum of 25 years. Many GRP tanks, with proper care and maintenance, can even exceed that timeframe, providing dependable service for well over three decades. This extended lifespan makes GRP tanks a cost-effective choice in the long run, eliminating the need for frequent replacements.

At Tanks.ie, we source our GRP tanks from reputable manufacturers who prioritise exceptional craftsmanship. These tanks are designed and built to endure the demands of everyday use. The smooth, non-porous surface of GRP tanks simplifies cleaning and maintenance, further contributing to their extended lifespan.

GRP tanks are renowned for their unmatched strength-to-weight ratio. This advantageous characteristic is achieved through a unique construction process. Glass fibres are woven into a web-like structure, creating a framework that is then infused with a specially formulated resin and catalyst. This allows GRP tanks to withstand significant pressure and forceful impacts, ensuring the safe and secure containment of liquids. While they excel at water storage, GRP tanks boast non-contaminating properties making them ideal for the safe containment of various chemicals, fuels, and even food products.

Unlike conventional metal tanks that are susceptible to rust and deterioration over time, GRP tanks are resilient against a multitude of chemicals and the harsh effects of weather. This inherent resistance allows for the safe storage of a wide variety of substances, including rainwater for your garden to potent industrial liquids used in various manufacturing processes. You can rest assured that your GRP tank will maintain its structural integrity for years to come.

While plastic tanks tend to become brittle over time, GRP tanks retain their remarkable strength and structural integrity for decades – plus the smooth, non-porous surface simplifies the cleaning and maintenance process. This minimises downtime and ensures optimal functionality over an extended lifespan.

GRP (Glass Reinforced Plastic) and MDPE (Medium-Density Polyethylene) tanks are both popular options, but they have key differences. GRP tanks are known for their impressive strength-to-weight ratio. This strength comes from its unique build. Glass fibres are woven into a web-like structure, then fused with a special resin for a rock-solid composite. This makes GRP tanks ideal for long-term use, lasting well over 25 years with proper care. MDPE tanks, on the other hand, are typically lighter than GRP. However, they might not be as strong, especially for larger sizes that need extra support to avoid bending. While MDPE tanks offer good chemical resistance, it might not be suitable for all substances compared to GRP's exceptional resistance. GRP tanks can be moulded into various shapes and sizes to fit your needs, and even coloured for aesthetics or safety regulations. MDPE tanks, however, are generally limited in shapes and colour options. Both GRP and MDPE tanks are easy to clean due to their smooth surfaces. However, GRP's longer lifespan makes it a more cost-effective option in the long run, even though it has a higher initial price tag compared to MDPE. MDPE tanks, while affordable upfront, might need replacement sooner due to their potential for UV degradation and shorter lifespan.

Water tanks can be classified as ‘potable’ and ‘non potable’. If you are storing clean water for human consumption, whether it be for drinking, prepping food or cleaning dishes etc, then a potable water tank is what you are after. All potable tanks must conform to the WRAS (Water Regulations Advisory Scheme) so that the liquid is safe for human consumption.

Non-potable tanks are for the safe storage of non-drinking water or for ‘not suitable’ for human consumption, in many different environments and applications. Non-potable tanks can be used in applications like rainwater harvesting, irrigation, agriculture & horticulture and commercial purposes where mains water is not available.

The difference in classification between the two comes from the materials used during the manufacturing process, specifically the type of plastic used to line the inside of the tank which comes into contact with the contained water. Non potable tanks are more porous, making it easier for the bacteria to grow and can sometimes let off gases which can contaminate the water. The WRAS approved material lines the inside of the tank, making the tank fit for human consumption, either ingested or used on the skin.

A potable water tank is suitable for storing drinking water and must adhere to specific government regulations. A non-potable water tank stores water that can be used for other purposes like flushing toilets and watering plants but is not safe for human consumption.

All potable water tanks, like these GRP tanks, must be submitted to the WRAS for testing, approval and accreditation and be approved in line with the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999. Potable water tanks are usually constructed from food-grade polyethene and finished with a smooth interior to protect against bacteria growth. Our potable water tanks come in a wide range of capacities, from 4 litre to 250,000 litre.

Non-potable tanks store water that can be used for plumbing purposes, such as flushing the toilet and in washing machines, as well as for gardening. They are often used in industrial and commercial premises, horticultural and market garden applications, agricultural irrigation and civil engineering situations where mains water is not available. In fact, non-potable water tanks are suitable for any application where the water or liquid stored will not be consumed by humans or animals.

Plastic water tanks can be made of lots of different materials, however the majority of tanks we offer are made from either a medium density polyethylene (MDPE) or a high density polyethylene.

The majority of our water tanks come with an outlet as standard. We can offer a range of water tanks where the tanks can either ‘Drilled’ or ‘Undrilled’. ‘Drilled’ meaning allowing water to escape from the tank via the outlet, whereas ‘Undrilled’ is when the outlet will remain sealed, preventing liquid from coming out and ensuring the contents of the tank is only touching plastic.

If the position of the outlet is required in an alternative position to the standard one offered or extra to the one positioned, we can offer a plastic Fusion socket. This can be welded anywhere on the tank using a drawing supplied by us, positions marked out by you, then fitted by the manufacturer.   

Plain tanks (with no outlets) can also be offered.

If you require a plastic fusion socket or a plain tank, then please contact our Customer Service Team, who will be happy to help with your requirements.

We offer a range of tap kits, each displaying the size of the hosetail and the outlet size the kit will suit. Tap Kit 5 (TPK5) is the best solution if you require a garden hose to be fitted. Our range of Hosetail kits allows you to attach a hose or pipe to the tank, leak-free. They are designed for continuous flow and come in varying sizes depending on the outlet.

All our tap kits come with a Jubilee clip and PDFE tape for that secure fit.

UK hose pipe diameters range from ½” to ¾” inch diameters. The majority of standard size garden hoses are 3/4” BSP, however we do offer accessories for the ½” hose, if required.

Baffled water tanks are tanks with an intergral wall system, which is primarily designed to strengthen and support the structure of the tank, when the tank is full of water.

Due to the structure of the baffles they can also be used for transporting water. The Baffles distrupt the movement of water, from surging from one side to the other. However, if you are transporting water, water tanks can be extremely hazardous when transporting large volumes of water. Please make sure the water tanks are installed and secured correctly, by a suitable qualified person before transportation. Baffled water tanks are an ideal solutions for car valeters, window cleaners or anyone who has to transport liquids using plastic water storage tanks and containers.

PVC bladder tanks can store most liquids except fuels and certain acids, this requires a special material so please inquire. We can manufacture a bladder tank to store pretty much any liquid but please check with us regarding your specific application

A well-maintained bladder tank can last anywhere from five to ten years or more. The flexible bladder, often made from materials like PVC, polyurethane, or rubber, is resilient and designed to withstand repeated expansions and contractions without compromising its integrity. Regular inspections for signs of wear, tear, or damage, such as punctures or leaks, is crucial for identifying issues early on. Following proper cleaning procedures between uses helps prevent the accumulation of debris or contaminants that could affect the bladder's material over time.

Exposure to extreme temperatures, harsh chemicals, or prolonged sunlight can accelerate the deterioration of the materials. Proper storage, away from direct sunlight and in a controlled environment, contributes to preserving the tank's overall quality. Similarly, adhering to recommended usage guidelines and avoiding overfilling the tank helps prevent unnecessary stress on the bladder and extends its operational life. Tanks with reinforced seams, reinforced corners, and durable outer shells are more likely to withstand the demands of frequent use and challenging environments. When considering bladder tanks for your specific application, be sure to consult with manufacturers or suppliers to understand the expected lifespan based on your usage requirements and to receive guidance on proper maintenance practices.

Bladder tanks are designed to provide a flexible and collapsible solution for storing and transporting water in a space-efficient and convenient manner. Bladder tanks are particularly valuable in situations where rapid deployment and mobility are crucial. The flexible bladder within the tank allows it to expand or contract based on the volume of water stored inside, ensuring efficient use of space. This makes bladder tanks ideal for emergency response scenarios, remote construction sites, agriculture, and firefighting efforts, where a quick and temporary liquid storage solution is necessary.

The sealed, flexible bladder serves as a barrier between the stored water and external elements, reducing the risk of contaminants entering the liquid. This makes bladder tanks suitable for applications where maintaining the purity and integrity of the water is essential, such as in drinking water storage. Their lightweight construction allows for convenient mobility, making them an excellent choice for temporary liquid storage needs in diverse environments. Whether it's establishing a temporary water supply for emergency response or transporting water to remote locations, bladder tanks provide a quick and efficient solution that can be easily moved and set up as needed.

A flat well-drained location is the ideal choice of a site that should be free from rocks, stones, tree stumps or any other sharp objects that may chafe or puncture the tank. On rough or stony ground sharp objects should be removed and ideally a layer of sand laid to provide a base. Maximum care must be taken to avoid placing tanks on ground having a cross slope as the tank is liable to “roll away” when being filled.

Not always, if the ground is free from debris and sharps then you can use these tanks without a ground sheet however, we do recommend using a ground sheet to prolong the life of the bladder tank

This can be done from the water mains or through a pump with the relevant connector fitted to attach to the bladder tank. This must start slowly (up to max 490 litres per minute) then increased to a maximum of 1,000 litres per minute dependent on tank capacity

This can be done by gravity or pumped, the tank may have to be lifted slightly to empty any remaining liquid

Our bladder tanks are quite easy to maintain. The surface should kept clean of debris and washed down occasionally. The inside can be cleaned through a small hatch using a hose pipe then drained away

Small cuts and abrasions can be repaired using our repair kit. Larger cuts/splits may have to be repaired at our factory (for a fee)

A water butt, also known as a rain barrel, is a container used to collect and store rainwater that falls on rooftops. There are several benefits to having a water butt. Collecting rainwater in a water butt allows you to reuse it for various purposes, such as watering your plants, washing your car, or cleaning outdoor spaces. This reduces your reliance on tap water, which is often treated and requires energy for purification and distribution. Using rainwater from a water butt can help conserve water and reduce your overall water usage, leading to cost savings on your water bill.

Rainwater is naturally soft and free from the chemicals commonly found in tap water, such as chlorine and fluorine. Using rainwater collected in a water butt for watering your plants provides them with natural, untreated water, which can be healthier for their growth and development.

During periods of water scarcity or drought, having a water butt can provide you with a stored source of water for essential outdoor tasks, such as watering your garden or washing your car, even when water restrictions may be in place. This can help you maintain your outdoor spaces and reduce your impact on local water resources during times of water shortage.

A water butt is typically positioned under a downpipe or gutter on your roof. When it rains, water from the roof flows into the gutter and down the downpipe, and then into the water butt through a diverter or downpipe connector. Some water butts may also have a built-in filter to prevent debris, such as leaves and twigs, from entering the water butt and contaminating the stored water.

Once the rainwater enters the water butt, it is stored in the container until you are ready to use it. At Tanks Direct, we offer a range of water butts in various sizes, from 110 to 340 litres. Water butts are typically equipped with a tap or a hose attachment near the bottom of the container, allowing you to access the collected water easily. Some water butts may also have an overflow outlet near the top to prevent overflow during heavy rainfall.

You can use the stored rainwater in your water butt for various purposes, such as watering your plants, washing your car, or cleaning outdoor spaces. Depending on the design of your water butt, you can either use a tap to fill watering cans or connect a hose to the hose attachment to distribute the water directly to your garden or other areas.

The length of time you can keep water in a water butt depends on various factors, such as the size and material of the water butt and the quality of the collected rainwater. In general, rainwater stored in a properly maintained water butt can be kept for several weeks to several months. However, it's important to note that rainwater is not treated or purified, and over time, it may become stagnant or develop algae, which can affect its quality.

The quality of the rainwater collected in a water butt can vary depending on factors such as air pollution, debris, and contaminants from the roof or gutters. It's recommended to use a water butt with a built-in filter or add a filter attachment to the downpipe to help minimise debris and contaminants from entering the water butt. Regularly checking and cleaning the water butt, including the filter, can help maintain water quality.

If you use the stored rainwater in your water butt regularly for watering plants or other purposes, the water turnover will be higher, and the water is less likely to stagnate. Using the collected rainwater regularly can help ensure that the water remains fresh and reduces the risk of water quality issues.

Regular maintenance of the water butt is important to ensure the water remains clean and fresh. This includes checking the water butt for debris or sediment build-up, cleaning the container and filter as needed, and ensuring that the tap or hose attachment is in good working condition. Following the manufacturer's instructions for maintenance and cleaning is recommended.

It's generally recommended to use up the stored rainwater in a water butt within a few weeks to a few months to ensure optimal water quality. If you have concerns about water quality or if the water in your water butt appears discoloured, has an odour, or shows signs of contamination, it's best to discard the water and clean the water butt thoroughly before collecting new rainwater.

While rainwater is generally considered safe for many uses, including watering plants and cleaning outdoor spaces, it's not recommended to drink rainwater from a water butt without proper treatment. Rainwater collected in a water butt is not typically treated or purified and may contain various contaminants that can pose health risks if ingested.

Rainwater can pick up contaminants from the roof, gutters, and other surfaces as it flows into the water butt, including dust, pollen, bird droppings, leaves, and other debris. In addition, air pollution and environmental contaminants can also be present in rainwater, especially in urban areas. These contaminants can potentially affect the quality of the collected rainwater and make it unsafe for drinking without proper treatment.

Installing a water butt involves several steps to ensure proper setup and functionality.

1. Select a location for your water butt that is close to a downpipe or a rainwater source, such as a roof or gutter. The area should be level and stable to support the weight of the water butt when full. Consider accessibility for maintenance and ease of use, such as attaching a hose or filling watering cans.
2. Clear the area of any debris, vegetation, or obstacles that may interfere with the installation or use of the water butt. Ensure that the ground is level and stable.
3. Install a rainwater diverter to divert water from a downpipe into the water butt. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to install the diverter, which typically involves cutting a section of the downpipe and attaching the diverter using screws or clips. Make sure the diverter is securely fitted and positioned properly to direct water into the water butt.
4. Place the water butt in the chosen location and ensure that it is level and stable. If the water butt has a stand or pedestal, assemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions. Some water butts may also require additional brackets or supports for stability.
5. Connect the hose or pipe from the rainwater diverter to the inlet of the water butt. Make sure the connection is tight and secure to prevent leaks.
6. If the water butt has an overflow port, it's important to install an overflow pipe or hose to direct excess water away from the water butt and prevent overflow. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to attach the overflow pipe or hose securely and direct it to a suitable drainage area.
7. Install a tap or hose attachment at the base of the water butt to allow for easy access to the stored rainwater. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to install the tap or hose attachment securely and ensure that it is positioned properly for convenient use.
8. Once the water butt is installed, fill it with water to check for any leaks or drips. Fix any leaks or issues before using the water butt.

You will need to ensure your water butt is properly maintained by regularly checking for debris, cleaning filters or screens, and ensuring that the tap or hose attachment is in good working condition. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for maintenance and cleaning to ensure optimal performance.

The size of your water tank really depends on what you want to use the rainwater for. If it is just for watering the garden, your water butt should be reletive to the size of garden you want to water. As a rule of thumb, you will use 8-10 litres of water for every square meter of garden bed and 5 litres for every establishing fruit tree in the summer period everytime you water. However you do not need to store all this water at one as we have usually have a plentiful supply of rainwater in Ireland. 

Our range of water butts ranges from 200 litres to 750 litres. If you are looking for a larger storage tank you can check out our range of Titan water tanks.

You can use a downpipe filter or diverter to connect a water butt to your drain pipe. To see our range of filters and diverters go to Filters & Siphons.

Rainwater can be used for all outdoor uses; watering the garden, washing cars, cleaning down patios, driveways, walls etc, and ornamental ponds. It can also be used inside the house to flush toilets and feed washing machines. Rainwater use means less build-up of calcium deposits in appliances.

Rainwater is not suitable for drinking or for use in showers and baths. Rainwater is generally free of harmful minerals and in most cases chemicals but can be adversely effected by air pollutants and/0r contamination by animals in the catchment area. The only way rainwater can be used for drinking water is if it is treated by ultra-violet filters which are not practical in domestic use as generally a rainwater tank will not store enough water for total consumption in a domestic situation.

Rainwater harvesting can lead to savings on energy bills as when you use rainwater, you reduce the demand on your water heater, as you won't need to heat the tap water for these non-potable uses. This can result in lower electricity or gas bills, especially if you have a water heating system that operates continuously. Rainwater harvesting can also contribute to reduced maintenance costs. By diverting rainwater away from your home's foundation, you can prevent potential water-related damage, such as flooding or structural issues so you'll save money on repairs and maintenance that might be required due to water damage.

Having a well-designed and functional rainwater collection system can make your home more appealing to eco-conscious buyers, potentially increasing its value. It's an environmentally friendly feature that can set your property apart from others in the real estate market. By using rainwater instead of tap water for non-potable purposes, you reduce the overall demand on your local water supply, which is not only a cost-saving measure but also a socially responsible choice that conserves water resources and helps protect the environment.

While rainwater harvesting offers numerous benefits, it's essential to consider the potential disadvantages. Installing rain barrels, storage tanks, gutters, and filters can require a significant upfront investment. Additionally, the maintenance of these systems, including cleaning filters and ensuring proper functioning, can be time-consuming and may involve ongoing expenses. During dry spells, there might not be enough rainwater to meet your needs, which can be a concern if you rely on it for gardening or other non-potable uses. In such cases, you may still need to use tap water, resulting in reduced cost savings. The quality of collected rainwater can be affected by various factors, such as the cleanliness of your roof and gutters. Dust, bird droppings, or pollutants from the environment can contaminate the water and, if not properly filtered and treated, this can limit the usability of the collected rainwater. To ensure safe and clean rainwater, you might need to invest in additional filtration or purification systems. In some regions, there may be regulations or restrictions on rainwater harvesting. You may need to check with local authorities to ensure that you comply with any relevant laws. The space required for rainwater storage tanks or barrels can also be a disadvantage, especially if you have limited outdoor space, while the aesthetics of rain storage tanks might not align with your landscaping preferences.

Collecting rainwater in Ireland is generally legal, and it is encouraged for certain uses, such as gardening, flushing toilets, and washing vehicles. However, there are some regulations and guidelines to keep in mind. In most cases, you can collect rainwater from your roof without obtaining any special permits or permissions. This practice is known as rainwater harvesting, and it is seen as an eco-friendly way to conserve water resources and reduce your environmental impact.

While it is legal to collect rainwater for personal use, you should be aware of a few key points. First, the rainwater you collect should be used for non-potable purposes, such as irrigation and cleaning. It's not intended for drinking or cooking. Second, if you plan to install a large rainwater harvesting system that may significantly impact local water drainage patterns, you might need to consult with local authorities, such as the Environment Protection Agency in Ireland, to ensure your system doesn't cause flooding or other environmental issues. Finally, if you live in a listed building or a conservation area, there may be additional restrictions, so it's advisable to check with your local planning authority. Always ensure you are complying with the specific rules in your area to enjoy the benefits of rainwater harvesting while respecting local regulations.

The size of a rainwater holding tank must match the demand for water with it’s availability as closely as possible.

BS 8515:2009 provides an authoritative and industry-approved means of calculating the optimum size of tank for household water use.

Unlike other industries it is better to reduce the size of the tank rather than over size it if in doubt as to the requirement. This is due to the benefit of allowing the tank to overflow at least twice a year to flush out floating debris. The tank chosen must therefore be a balance between rainwater supply and water demand.

In order to correctly size the tank, the capacity should be the lesser of either the rainwater supply or the water demand. A worked example demonstrating this principle is shown below:-

There are many reasons why using a water butt is a good idea. By collecting rainwater a water butt,  you are using a free natural resource. This puts less pressure on an already under pressure water system and reduces the demand put on the public water system. By collecting rainwater, less water goes down the storm drains and eliviates pressur on the public drainage system and help to prevent flooding. An added bonus to using rainwater for watering your plants is that the plants love natural rainwater with no chemicals added.

A hand fuel transfer pump can be used to move fuel from one container to another. Useful in many different industries, including automotive, industrial, and agricultural, hand fuel transfer pumps are designed to be lightweight and portable, making them ideal for use in remote locations or in areas where power is not available. They can be used for refuelling vehicles, boats, and other equipment.

If you’re working remotely or travelling to areas where there isn’t mains power, 12v pumps are a good option. These types of pumps come with two crocodile clips that you attach onto a power source such as a car battery. Our 230v diesel pumps are more popular for use with static tanks on a working farm, for example, and tend to come with a 3-pin caravan plug or a 3-pin UK domestic plug.

The answer to this question depends on several factors, including the quality of the diesel, the environment the tank is stored in, and the type of transfer tank being used. Generally speaking, diesel fuel stored in a transfer tank will last between six and twelve months. However, this time frame can vary depending on the factors listed above. For example, if the diesel is of high quality and stored in an environment that is not prone to extreme climate changes, then the diesel may last up to twelve months. However, if the diesel is of lower quality and stored in a harsh environment, then it may only last for six months. Additionally, if the tank is not properly sealed, then the diesel may not last as long, as air can contaminate the fuel and cause it to deteriorate more quickly.

When it comes to selecting the right type of transfer tank for your diesel storage needs, we have several options available. Each type of tank will have its own pros and cons, and the best option for you will depend on your unique needs and budget. If you’d like any help choosing the right diesel transfer tank, contact our friendly team who will be happy to help.

This will depend on several factors, including the type and size of the battery, the pump's motor efficiency, and the amount of fuel being transferred. A fully charged 12V pump should run for several hours. However, if you are transferring a large amount of fuel or using the pump for an extended period, the battery may run out of power more quickly. It helps to choose a high-quality battery with a high amp-hour rating. Additionally, you can reduce the strain on the battery by using a pump with a more efficient motor, or by using the pump intermittently rather than continuously. It is also important to monitor the battery's charge level and recharge it as needed. Some 12V pumps come with built-in battery monitors or low-voltage shut-off features to help prevent damage to the battery

It is not recommended to use an 18V battery on a 12V pump. This is because the voltage of the battery needs to match the voltage of the pump to ensure proper function and prevent damage to both the pump and the battery. When you use a battery with a higher voltage than the pump is designed for, the motor in the pump will spin faster than intended. This can cause excessive wear and tear on the motor, which can lead to overheating, damage to the pump's internal components, and even total failure of the pump. In some cases, a pump may have a voltage range that it can operate within, which could allow it to function with an 18V battery. However, it is always best to consult the manufacturer's instructions and specifications before using a battery with a different voltage than what is recommended.

The number of amps will depend on the specific model. In general, a typical 12V fuel pump will draw between 4 and 10 amps. However, some high-performance fuel pumps may require more amps to operate at their maximum flow rate. Additionally, if the fuel pump is being used for an extended period, it may draw more amps than it does during a short-term operation. It is important to check the manufacturer's specifications for the specific fuel pump you are using to determine the exact number of amps it requires. This information can help you choose an appropriate power source, such as a battery or power supply, that can provide enough current to operate the fuel pump without damaging it. If you are unsure about the amperage requirements for any of our 12V fuel pumps, you can contact our friendly and knowledgeable team.

A fuel transfer pump works simple by pumping fuel such as diesel or kerosene from one tank or container to another. Some diesel transfer pumps are rotary vane pumps, others are gear pumps. Electric diesel transfer pumps can be purchased in 12 volt, 24 volt, 230 volt and in ac and dc versions. Some diesel transfer pumps can also be battery operated for remote use.

There are various types of diesel transfer pumps available depending on the application and the volume of fuel you are pumping. For large volumes of fuel, there are disel pumps integrated into fuel management systems so you can track your fuel consumption. 

If you would like our advice on choosing the correct water or diesel pump, then please get in touch with our friendly team today.

For links to our fuel management systems please click Fuel Management Systems

Because fuel tends to dissolve the gaskets and other materials used in water pumps, water pumps cannot be used to transfer diesel and diesel pumps cannot be used to transfer water. It is recommended that you use the correct pump for your application. There are also specific transfer pumps with liquids of high viscosities

If you are looking for a water pump click Water Pumps to see our range.

Some of our high viscosity pumps are as follows:-

• Piusi Viscomat 70
• Piusi Viscomat 90

No, to transfer petrol you must use an ATEX rated pump which is safe to use in an explosive atmosphere. There are strict guidelines that must be followed in an areas where flamible substances are stored. 

To learn more about the ATEX Directives go to the HSE's website here

One of our Atex Rated Pumps is the Piusi EX50 Atex Pump

A booster pump increases low water pressure and low flow either from a storage tank or on mains pressure throughout the whole property. If you have low water pressure or low flow, the booster pump will bring the water pressure up to the desired level to make your plumbing system work efficiently.

Water pressure is the force water is pushed through your pipes into your property. It effects the flow of water out of your taps, shower heads and into your appliances such as washing machines and dishwashers.

Water pressure is measured in bar or psi (pounds per square inch). One bar of water pressure is needed to raise water 10 metres high so the higher the water must travel, the lower the water pressure will be.

If the water pressure in your house is low to all your plumbed appliances and fixtures, it is most likely the issue is that the water pressure coming into your house is low. If it is just to one of some of the appliances or fixtures, it could be an issue with that fixture, or a pipe run in your property. The amount of water pressure in your home may vary depending on the time of the day and the ground level of your property. Check that the water meter valve and the main shutoff valve are fully opened.

However, while these factors play a part, your water authority is required to supply a minimum of 0.7 bar of pressure. If the mains pressure into your property is consistently low, you may need to fit a booster pump to your plumbing system.

To see our full range of booster pump sets please click - Booster Pump Sets

A booster pump set usually contains a single, twin or triple booster pump, a pressure vessel and a pressure gauge. Most booster pumps also have dry run protection which means the pump will not run if there is no water flowing through it, preventing the pump from burning out. You can also get booster sets that include a water storage tank or break tank.

To improve your mains water pressure and flow, a mains booster pump can be fitted to the mains cold water supply. In compliance with water fitting regulations, this is up to 12 litres per minute. Generally, a mains booster pump can improve the performance of all the water appliances and fixtures in your home.

Yes, the WRAS state that you can pump from the mains so long as there are safeguards in place so that 12l/min is not exceeded. Check that your booster pump is fully WRAS approved and suitable for potable or drinking water. If you require more than 12’/min you will need to install a break tank.

To choose the correct booster pump set you will need to know the head height that the pump needs to pump to, the flow rate you require, the pressure you require and the system type you need. You will also need to understand if you require on larger pump or multiple smaller pumps.

If you need help in choosing the correct booster pump set please call us or email us and we will be happy to help you.

Please see our full range of booster pump sets at - Water Booster Pump Sets

A pressure or break water tank can enhance a boosted system. The tank allows water extra space to go when it expands and prevents the booster pump from cycling on and off every time you turn the fixtures or appliances on. A larger break tank holds a volume of water referred to as drawdown and means there is a larger amount of water available before the booster pump turns on again reducing the use of the pump.

Although a booster pump boosts water pressure, it also in many cases improves the flow rate. A booster pump is an impeller pump that that increases water flow and pressure in the same principle as a fan.

A booster pump is generally a type of centrifugal pump used to increase the pressure of water flowing through pipe lines.

The booster pump draws water into the pump through the mains supply or break tank. When the water enters the chamber of the pump, the pump activates the impellers. The impellers then spin at a high rate boosting the pressure of the water before exiting through the outlet.

By adding a booster pump set to you can improve your mains water pressure. These booster sets make having multiple uses on your plumbing system at the same time possible such as showers and washing up.

The booster pump is controlled by pressure. When pressure is released by turning on a tap or appliance, the booster pump turns on to push the water through at a faster rate. When the appliance is turned off and the pressure builds up, the pressure switch turns the pump off until it is needed again.

There are differences between water pressure and water flow. Water flow is the volume of water delivered and is measured in litres per minute. Water pressure is the force or speed the water is delivered. Both are affected by the size and condition of the pipe work the water is flowing through.

The single pump constant pressure cold water booster set, is designed to increase the pressure of water services within a building where the existing incoming main is not sufficient. If the supply of water fails during operation the pump automatically shuts down to prevent damage and re-starts again once water is restored. The pressure boosters are suitable for private water supply applications, particularly where constant pressure is required or where there are large fluctuations in demand.

 

Yes, your booster pump will need to be serviced and maintained regularly to keep it in good working order. This will prevent unnecessary costly repairs or replacements at a later date.

Due to regulation, you cannot pump directly onto a mains water line for the whole property, without storing water and creating an overflow. To achieve this we supply the boosters systems with break tanks, as they are commonly known, to compliantly store the water to act as a reservoir and which the pump draws from.

Pump and Tank Booster Sets

If you use lots of appliances at the same time you water pressure will reduce, such as dishwashers and washing machines. If you have an older property, you may find your water pipe is smaller than those used in modern houses. Smaller pipes supply less water and can reduce pressure and flow.

When water pressure in your house is low, it is most likely the water pressure coming into your house is lower than the property requires. However, if you notice that the low pressure is only to just one or a few appliances then it could be an issue with that fixture, or a pipe that runs into your property.

The amount of water pressure in your home may vary depending on the time of the day and the ground level of your property. Check that the water meter valve and the main shut off valve are fully opened.

However, while these factors play a part, your water authority is required to supply a minimum of 0.7 bar of pressure. If the mains pressure into your property is consistently low, you may need to fit a booster pump to your plumbing system.

To see our full range of booster pump sets, please click - Booster Pump Sets

For this, we would require a breakdown of the cold water outlet for the whole property, i.e. 2 W/C’s, 4 Wash hand basins and a shower. Once we have calculated the building water demand, we can then specify the right storage tank, this is an industry standard of a capacity to cope with a 10-minute run time at full demand, most 3-4 bedroom properties for example work out at around 250L.

For most single property installation, pressure isn’t a huge concern, as low head booster systems that run up to 3 bar will produce more than sufficient pressure for a 2-story property.

This depends on a couple of factors, the demand of the building if you want it sharing across 2 pumps, but also the importance of the water supply, for example, manufacturing facilities who need wash down cannot afford the downtime of a single pump etc. With a twin pump system, you can share the duty across 2 pumps, which both pumps would run at 50% of total duty, or on duty standby, where each pump would be capable of 100% of total duty.

Here at Tanks.ie we have a huge selection of water pumps available.

Wastewater or sewage pumps are used to move wastewater, or water that contains solids and contaminants, from one place to another. They are commonly used in various industrial, commercial, and residential applications to move wastewater from a source to a sewage treatment plant or to another location entirely.

Booster pump sets are used to increase water pressure. Booster pumps work by taking in water at a low pressure and increasing it to a higher pressure with a centrifugal impeller. Booster pump sets are ideal for areas where the water pressure is too low to provide adequate water flow.

GRP pump enclosures are made from a composite material of glass reinforced polyester (GRP). Requiring little maintenance, GRP pump enclosures are highly durable and offer excellent protection from the elements and corrosion.

Submersible pumps are designed to operate while completely submerged in a fluid.

Swimming pool and garden pumps are used to circulate water in swimming pools, hot tubs, water features, and gardens. They keep the water free of debris and maintain the desired water temperature. The pump typically pulls water from the pool or garden and pushes it through a filtration system before returning it to the pool or garden.

Submersible pumps are very good at dealing with groundwater flooding and rainfall. Designed to operate underwater, they work by using electric motors to draw water from flooded areas and divert it away from buildings and other areas that need to remain dry. Submersible pumps are commonly used to drain water from flooded basements and other areas that are prone to flooding.

We stock a wide range of submersible pumps, that are easy to install and maintain. They can be connected to pipes and other water control systems, allowing for quick and easy water removal in the event of flooding. They are designed to operate in a wide range of temperatures and conditions and are typically constructed from corrosion-resistant materials that can withstand long periods of exposure to water. Our submersible pumps are often equipped with protective measures, such as float switches and check valves, to prevent any damage to the motor or pump should the water start to rise too quickly.

Also known as sump pumps, submersible pumps are a type of centrifugal pump that can be operated when fully submerged underwater. Sealed so the electrics are protected, our range of submersible pumps can be used for a variety of applications including puddle drainage, swimming pool pumps, pond and water feature pumps, and drainage pumps.

Choosing the right water pump for your needs is essential for effective water maintenance. We stock a wide range of water pumps, so first you need to determine the type of water pump you need.

Wastewater or sewage pumps move wastewater from one part of a system to another. We offer a range of wastewater pumps in different capacities and configurations and come with a variety of features. If you live in an area with low water pressure, our booster pump sets can increase the water pressure in your home or office. Chemical pumps are designed to move fluids containing hazardous chemicals without risking exposure or damage to the pump or surrounding equipment. Pressurised pumps are used to transfer fluids that require pressurisation. Made from a composite material of glass reinforced polyester, GRP pump enclosures are highly durable and offer excellent protection from the elements. Submersible pumps are a type of water pump that can be submerged underwater to pump out water. This type of pump is typically used in flooded areas or to pump out water from ponds, wells, or other water sources. Swimming pool and garden pumps circulate water in a swimming pool or pond. The pumps work by creating suction to draw water from the pool or pond, and then using an impeller to push the water through a filter.

Head is the height in which the pump is lifting the waste, measured from cover level of the pump station, to the cover level of the discharge manhole. With this measurement we can ensure we supply a pump powerful enough to lift the waste up that high. We will need to know this and also the distance that it is pumping to make sure the pump quoted is suitable.

An automatic pump is a pump that will automatically turn itself on and off as the liquid level rises and falls. These pumps are usually longer lasting as they do not burn out but switch off automatically if there is no liquid to pump therefore, they do not run dry.

A submersible pump means that the pump needs to be submerged or covered in liquid specifically the type specified on the pump such as water, wastewater, sewage etc.

 Ideally, you should try and avoid running a sewage pump continuously and only run it intermittently. This lowers the risk of overloading and damage to the pump in the long run.

It's important to consider the size of the pump and the amount of wastewater it will be moving. If the pump is too small, it won't be able to handle the amount of wastewater it needs to move and will eventually burn out. On the other hand, if the pump is too large, it will be wasting energy and money to run it continuously.  Most sewage pumps are also designed to run intermittently to conserve energy and reduce costs, so keeping it running all the time is not the most cost-effective use of this product.

Sump pumps are essential components of any home's plumbing system, as they are responsible for keeping the basement or crawlspace dry by removing excess water. However, like any other machine, sump pumps require regular maintenance to ensure that they are operating properly and efficiently. It is important to understand that sump pumps have a limited lifespan and, depending on the specific model, are typically expected to last up to ten years.

If you do not perform regular maintenance, the sump pump may fail prematurely, resulting in costly repairs or even a flooding incident. Regular maintenance should include checking the sump pump for any signs of corrosion or damage, such as rust or cracks, and checking electrical connections to make sure they are tight and secure. You may also want to insect your sump pump for any debris or blockages that may prevent it from working properly.

You can regularly test your sump pump to make sure it is working properly by filling up a bucket with water and placing it near the sump pump's inlet. If the pump does not turn on when the bucket is filled, you may have a problem.

A sump pump serves as a crucial guardian for your home, especially in areas prone to flooding or excessive moisture. Nestled in the lowest part of your basement or crawlspace, the primary function of a sump pump is to prevent water accumulation and potential flooding. It achieves this by actively collecting excess water that could seep into your home's foundation and directs it away from the property.

The heart of the sump pump system is the sump pit, a specially constructed basin that collects water. When the water level in the pit reaches a certain height, a float or pressure sensor triggers the pump into action. The pump then swiftly removes the water from the pit and directs it away from your home through a discharge pipe, usually leading to a storm drain or a designated area that prevents water from re-entering your property.

Beyond preventing flooding, a sump pump is a valuable defence against mould and mildew. By swiftly removing excess water, it reduces the risk of moisture seeping into your home's foundation and creating a breeding ground for these harmful substances. This not only protects your property but also promotes a healthier indoor environment for you and your family.

The electricity consumption of a sump pump is a common concern for homeowners, but the actual usage can vary based on factors such as pump type, capacity, and frequency of operation. Generally, sump pumps are not known for consuming a significant amount of electricity. Submersible pumps, which are more commonly used in residential applications, are typically energy efficient. The power consumption of a sump pump is measured in watts. A typical submersible sump pump might use around 500 to 750 watts. However, it's crucial to note that sump pumps are designed to operate intermittently. They kick into action when the water level in the sump pit rises to a certain point, usually triggered by heavy rainfall or melting snow. Once the water is pumped out and the pit is clear, the pump shuts off. This on-and-off cycle helps minimise continuous electricity consumption. If you live in an area prone to heavy rainfall or have a high-water table, your sump pump may operate more frequently. However, for many homeowners, the pump might only run a few times a month or even less, resulting in modest electricity usage. Regular maintenance, including cleaning the pump and ensuring proper functioning of the float switch, also contributes to energy efficiency by allowing the pump to operate optimally.

No, a sump pump should not run continuously throughout the day. Sump pumps are designed to operate intermittently, turning on only when the water level in the sump pit rises to a certain point. Continuous operation may indicate a problem with the pump, the float switch, or an unusually high water inflow that requires investigation.

A constantly running sump pump can be a sign of an overwhelmed drainage system, a malfunctioning float switch, or a pump that is too large for the intended application. If your sump pump runs continuously, it's crucial to assess the situation promptly to prevent potential issues such as motor burnout, increased electricity consumption, and unnecessary wear and tear on the pump components.

If you notice that the pump is running more frequently than usual or appears to be struggling to keep up with water inflow, it's time to investigate. Check for any visible leaks, assess the condition of the pump, and ensure that the float switch is functioning correctly. Additionally, examine the drainage system and discharge pipe to confirm that water is being directed away from your home effectively. Remember, a well-maintained and properly functioning sump pump is crucial in safeguarding your home from potential flooding and water damage.

If you have an application where the risk of blockages that could enter the drain run is higher than usual, for example if the property is rented, tenants could unwillingly block the pump, this is also a problem if it is an apartment block as you wouldn’t be able to source who was responsible for blocking It, but everyone would need to pay their share to fix it.

Also, macerator pumps, because of how they cut through the waste, they can pump a much higher head (vertical distance), so when compared to vortex pumps, if you have anything over 10m, you will need to be selecting macerator pumps. Always check the pump flow curves for your application or you can call to speak to one of our technical team if you want to be sure the pumps will do the task at hand.

If you are concerned about the risk of blockages but also need a flow rate which macerator pumps can’t provide, or even if it’s purely just a faster flow rate you need, a larger 65mm or 80mm pump will be able to achieve this, calculating a specific flow rate to your application is difficult and would be best speaking to a member of our technical team to help specify the right pumps for your station.

Waste pumps and your wastewater system in general need regular servicing to keep it in working order. A general desludging of your system and a check of the components such as the sewage pump will keep the sewage treatment system in good working order for longer.

Generally, a good rule of thumb for servicing your sewage pump would be every 1 to 2 years or every time you empty your septic tank. It is a good idea to get it checked regularly to avoid a costly replacement further down the line.

This depends on your existing pump and the type of installation you have or are planning on. The vertical Hippo 50 has a vertical port discharges via a 2” female port and the horizontal Hippo 50 discharges via a horizontal 2” female port but is also DN50 flanged

Vortex impeller sewage pumps use centrifugal action. In this sewage pump. the impeller rotates and causes a tornado-like action that pulls the waste into the pump and then sends it into the discharge pipe with little or no contact with the impeller which helps the pump to withstand any stringy material it may encounter. This means there is a much lower chance of clogging the impeller.

A grinder pump takes the wastewater from the holding tank, grinding any waste into a fine slurry and then pumps it into a sewage treatment plant. They can pump over much longer distances but at a slower rate because they are high pressure and low volume pumps.

Macerator pumps are used only for heads higher than 10m and with a low flow rate when you have a discharge rate restriction imposed by the water authority who own the sewer you discharging into.

If a booster or compact set is being housed externally, you will need an enclosure to protect the inverter from the elements so anything electronic needs to be protected by an enclosure of some sort, never leave the booster set to face the elements

You require at least 500mm above the break tank so you can service it and inspect it when required. Also, a booster just needs to be installed in a maintainable space so that the inverters can be reviewed if needed via clear walkways and facing into the room, not tucked away down the side of a plant room.

IBC stands for intermediate bulk container. They are large, portable tanks designed to store and transport liquids and semi-liquids. Available in a wide range of capacities from 600 to 1,000 litres, IBC tanks are widely used in various industries to store moderate to large quantities of substances.

Their stackable design allows for efficient use of space, making them perfect for both storage and transportation purposes. Additionally, IBCs often come equipped with pallet bases, making them compatible with forklifts and other handling equipment, easing the process of loading and unloading. IBCs are popular across industries dealing with food and beverages, chemicals, and agriculture, where the safe and efficient storage and movement of substances is paramount.

Always make sure you are familiar with the correct handling procedures and adhere to industry standards. Regular inspections and maintenance of IBCs will help prevent potential leaks or damages, ensuring the substances they hold are secure. When selecting your IBC, consider the materials they are made of and their compatibility with the substances you intend to store or transport.

IBC tanks are not inherently designed or intended for potable water use. Our IBCs are typically made from materials like high-density polyethylene (HDPE) or metal, and they are primarily used for storing and transporting non-toxic liquids, chemicals, and granulated materials. They are not specifically manufactured to meet the strict requirements for storing and transporting potable water.

While some IBC tanks may have been previously used for food-grade or non-toxic substances, this does not automatically make them suitable for potable water storage. The key concern lies in the potential for contamination or chemical residue from previous contents. Without proper cleaning, sanitisation, and certification, using an IBC tank for potable water can pose health risks.

If you intend to use an IBC tank for storing drinking water, it is essential to verify its suitability and safety. Look for IBC tanks explicitly labelled as "potable" or "food-grade". Alternatively, consider using purpose-built water storage containers to ensure the safety of the water you intend to consume.

The lifespan of IBC tanks can vary depending on several factors. The duration of their functionality will be influenced by the materials they are made from, the quality of construction, and how well they are maintained. Generally, IBC tanks made from high-quality materials like stainless steel or robust plastics such as HDPE can last anywhere from 5 to 20 years or more with proper care.

To extend the longevity of your IBC tank, you should implement regular inspections and maintenance routines. Check for signs of wear, corrosion, or damage, and address any issues promptly. Keep the tanks clean and free from residue, especially if they have been used to store chemicals or other substances. Additionally, store the IBC tanks in a suitable environment, away from extreme temperatures or harsh weather conditions that could deteriorate the materials over time.

When using IBC tanks for storing liquids, it's essential to follow the manufacturer's guidelines and ensure they are not exposed to conditions that could compromise their structural integrity. Regularly assess the condition of the seals and closures to prevent leaks and spills. By taking a proactive approach to maintenance and adhering to safety protocols, you can maximise the lifespan of your IBC tank and get the most out of your investment.

To safely fill an IBC first make sure that the pallet, cage and bottle and valve are suitable for use with the intended product. Ensure that the valve is securely tighten to the inner bottle and that the valve is closed and that the drip cap is secured and tightened. Check that the inside of the bottle is clean. When hot  filling product  do not  exceed 65°C. When bottom  filling make sure that  the vents are functioning correctly or open the top cap.  Do not over fill the IBC.  After filling, if the product has a UN number, ensure that the lid seal is correctly  positioned and tighten the screw cap to 70-80 Newton/Meters.

Do not lift IBCs from the top frame. Ensure that the fork truck tines are fully inserted under the IBC before lifting. Ensure that the vehicle floor is in good condition and free of all nails etc. that could puncture the IBC. Always transport IBCs with the correct labelling attached to the ID Plate.

Always secure IBCs to prevent possible movement during transit.

Yes, depending on the pallet type, our IBCs can be stacked as follows whether empty or full:

MX IBCs - with metal or plastic pallets - Up to 4 High (with a maximum SG of 1.6)

SX IBCs - with metal pallets - Up to 4 High (with a maximum SG of 1.6)

LX IBCs - with wooden or plastic pallets - Up to 3 High (with a maximum SG of 1.4)

Animal or livestock drinkers are automatic self-filling containers which are suitable for a wide range of animals including cats, dogs, sheep, goats, cattle, horses etc. These drinkers have a contact supply of water so that the animals never go thirsty.

Footbaths are used for sheep to minimise disease and the spread of foot rot and helps in healing already affected feet. This improves the welbeing of the sheep. 

If you are looking for a sheep footbath please click Sheep Footbath

Cows hoofs are commonly wet, and in a bacteria laden environment that have the tendency to contract bacterial based diseases. Cattle footbaths are used to prevent cow hoof disease and to control outbreaks of hoof diseases in herds by bathing their hoofs in a disinfectant solution. 

To purchase cattle footbaths click Cattle Footbaths

A compartment multi teat feeder allows calves or lambs to be allocated the correct amount of milk and reduces the effect of bullying.

To look at our range of milk feeders click Livestock Feeders & Dispensers

A boot bath can be ideally used at the entrance of poultry units, piggeries and dairies etc. to disinfect, clean and decontaminate boots before entering and help the control and spread of disease.

Plunge dipping is an effective way to control and eliminate sheep scab and other ecto-parasites including ticks, lice and blowfly,especially inside the ears and behind the tail, the preferred site of many ticks. Our sheep dip tub can be used for this purpose.

To purchase the sheep dip tub click Sheep Dip Tub.

Coal bunkers come in various sizes and capacities, and the amount of coal they can hold depends on their dimensions and design. At Fuel Tank Shop, we stock a wide range of coal bunkers from smaller 3 bag coal bunkers from 150kg of coal to much larger 12 bag bunkers that store up to 600kg. Smaller coal bunkers are suitable for residential use, while larger bunkers will suit commercial and industrial use.

It's important to note that the capacity of a coal bunker may also vary depending on the type and size of the coal being stored, as different coal types have varying densities and can occupy different volumes. When choosing your coal bunker, it's important to consider your specific needs and usage requirements, such as the amount of coal you typically use, the available space for storage, and the frequency of coal deliveries. It's recommended to select a coal bunker with a capacity that meets your needs, allowing you to store an adequate supply of coal for your intended usage without overloading the bunker.

The ideal location for your coal bunker may vary depending on factors such as the layout of your property and accessibility. However, here are some general guidelines to consider when determining the best place to put your coal bunker. You may want to place your bunker somewhere it can be easily accessed when you have your coal delivered. Consider factors such as the width and height of access points, clearance for manoeuvring, and any potential obstacles that may be in the way. Think about the proximity of the coal bunker to the point of use to minimise the effort and time required to bring the coal from your bunker to your heating appliance.

Select a level and stable area for your coal bunker. Avoid sloped or uneven ground, as that could affect the stability of the bunker and make loading and unloading more challenging. Level ground will also help minimise the risk of accidents or damage. Avoid placing your bunker in areas where it may pose a safety risk, such as near flammable materials, electrical equipment, or in high-traffic areas.

By considering these factors, you’ll be able to determine the best place to put your coal bunker to ensure efficient and safe coal storage for your needs.

When purchasing a coal bunker, there are several key factors to consider that will help you choose the right one.

Capacity

The capacity of a bunker refers to the amount of coal it can hold. Choose a bunker with a capacity that meets your coal storage needs, considering factors such as the amount of coal you typically use, frequency of deliveries, and available space for storage.

Accessibility

Consider the design and accessibility features of the coal bunker. Look for bunkers with easy-to-use features such as hinged lids, doors, or covers that allow for convenient loading and unloading of coal. Accessibility features such as handles, latches, or locks can also enhance the usability and security of your bunker.

Dimensions

Consider the dimensions and size of the coal bunker in relation to the available space for storage. Measure your available space carefully and ensure that the coal bunker you choose fits comfortably in the designated area without obstructing access or posing safety hazards.

By considering these factors when purchasing a coal bunker, you can ensure that you choose a product that meets your specific needs. At Tanks.ie, you’ll find coal bunkers from reputable brands for a reliable and efficient coal storage solution.

Correct storage of liquid fertiliser is important to ensure safety and security. The storage requirements for liquid fertilisers depend on the number of grades required at any one time, farm topography and logistics. Tanks.ie liquid fertiliser tanks are suitable for the safe and secure storage of liquid fertiliser.

To see our range click Liquid Fertiliser Tanks

There are several types, including trough feeders, bunk feeders, round bale feeders, creep feeders, and automatic feeders. The type used can depend on the animal, the feed type, and the size of the operation.

To see Tanks.ie full range of feeders click on Livestock Feeders

The size of the feeder should be determined by the number of animals you have, their feeding habits, and how often you want to replenish the feed. Larger operations or less frequent feedings require larger feeders.

Common materials include galvanized steel, plastic, rubber, and wood. The best material often depends on durability, ease of cleaning, safety for the animals, and cost.

Many farmers find that our high-density polyethylene (HDPE) troughs offer a winning combination of durability, resistance to corrosion, and ease of maintenance. They exhibit excellent resistance to corrosion and impact and this durability ensures a longer lifespan for the trough, providing a reliable and cost-effective solution. Unlike their metal alternatives, plastic does not succumb to rust, ensuring that your livestock's water remains uncontaminated and safe. This resistance makes plastic troughs particularly well-suited for outdoor use, where exposure to the elements is inevitable.

Plastic troughs are also lightweight, facilitating easy installation, relocation, and maintenance. Their manageable weight makes them a practical choice for farmers seeking a versatile and user-friendly solution. Whether you need to move the trough to a different grazing area or during routine cleaning, the lightweight nature of plastic troughs simplifies these tasks, saving you time and effort.

Plastic is also an excellent insulator, helping to regulate water temperature. In extreme weather conditions, plastic troughs can prevent water from freezing in cold temperatures and maintain a more moderate temperature during the warmer summer months. This insulation ensures that your animals have access to water at the right temperature, promoting consistent hydration and overall health

Use feeders designed to prevent animals from pulling feed out, adjust the height for the specific animal, and provide adequate space for all animals to reduce competition and spillage.

Portable feeders are good for rotational grazing systems and can reduce pasture damage. Stationary feeders can be more durable and may be appropriate for permanent feeding areas.

Common types include trough drinkers, nipple systems, automatic bowl drinkers, and nose pumps. The choice depends on the species of livestock, the quality of the available water, and the setup of the grazing area.

Clean the drinkers regularly to prevent algae and bacteria growth, and consider a filtration system if using surface water. Position drinkers so that they are not contaminated by run-off or manure.

Insulated drinkers, heated elements, constant water circulation, or automatic drinkers that only release water when the animal is drinking can help prevent freezing.

Water needs can vary widely depending on the species, size, diet, and the temperature of the environment. Ensure the drinkers can provide enough water for all animals, especially during peak demand times.

It's crucial to establish a routine that aligns with the specific needs of your farm. Regularity is key, with a general guideline suggesting that checking and cattle drinker troughs at least once a week is a good starting point. This routine maintenance ensures that your animals have access to clean and fresh water consistently.

Consider factors such as the size of the trough, the number of animals using it, and prevailing weather conditions. High-traffic troughs or those in areas with concentrated animal activity may necessitate more frequent attention. Additionally, monitor water quality, checking for signs of algae, sediment, or debris. If present, prompt cleaning becomes imperative to maintain the health and well-being of your livestock. The frequency of emptying water troughs can also be influenced by external elements like weather. In hot conditions, troughs may require more frequent checks to prevent algae growth and guarantee an ample supply of fresh water. During freezing temperatures, monitoring and preventing ice build-up becomes essential to ensure continuous access to water.

Tailor your approach based on the unique characteristics of your farm, the size of the troughs relative to the number of animals, and any ongoing health concerns within the herd. By adopting a proactive stance and incorporating regular checks into your routine, you not only safeguard the health of your livestock but also contribute to the overall efficiency of your farm operations. Stay attentive to the condition of the water and troughs, adjusting your maintenance schedule as needed.

Maintaining a clean water trough for your livestock is crucial for their health and well-being. Aim to clean the trough at least once a week, though more frequent checks may be necessary based on factors such as the size of the trough and the number of animals.

When cleaning, empty the trough completely to remove any remaining water and debris. Use a stiff brush to scrub the interior surfaces, removing algae, sediment, and any build-up. Pay special attention to corners and hard-to-reach areas where contaminants might accumulate. Rinse thoroughly to ensure all cleaning agents and residues are removed. If the water is sourced from a pond or stream, extra care may be needed. Installing a filtration system or periodically treating the water with safe, livestock-friendly additives can help maintain water quality and reduce the frequency of thorough cleanings.

Be proactive in addressing any health concerns within the herd. If there are sick animals, increase the frequency of trough cleanings and consider disinfecting the trough to prevent the spread of diseases. By staying vigilant and implementing these practices, you'll create a clean and safe water source for your livestock, helping their overall health and vitality.

Strategically placing your water trough is crucial for ensuring easy access and optimal health for your livestock. Position the troughs within a reasonable distance from grazing spaces, minimising the effort your animals need to expend to quench their thirst. This encourages regular hydration and contributes to their overall well-being. Consider placing the water troughs under some form of shelter, such as a canopy or natural barrier, to help prevent water contamination due to rain or excessive sunlight.

A flat and stable surface minimises the risk of tipping and allows for an even water level, making it easier for your animals to drink comfortably. Additionally, consider the drainage in the chosen area. Avoid locations prone to flooding or waterlogging, as these conditions can compromise water quality and create an unsuitable environment for your livestock.

In multi-animal setups, account for herd dynamics. Place troughs in areas that allow for simultaneous access by multiple animals, reducing competition and potential conflicts during watering times to ensure all members of the herd have equal opportunities to drink.

Regularly observe the chosen location for any signs of wear and tear or environmental changes that might impact the trough's functionality. Adjust the positioning if necessary to address emerging issues promptly. By thoughtfully selecting and maintaining the placement of water troughs, you contribute to the overall efficiency of your livestock management practices and their well-being.

Determining the appropriate size for your water trough is a crucial aspect of ensuring that your livestock has a reliable and ample water supply. Start by considering the number and size of animals you have on your farm and ensure there's enough room for multiple animals to drink simultaneously without causing overcrowding or competition. Larger animals, such as cattle, may require more water than smaller animals, like sheep or goats. Assess the daily water intake of your specific livestock and choose a trough size that accommodates their needs. Bear in mind that during warmer months, animals tend to drink more water to stay hydrated.

If your farm has a reliable and frequent water supply, you may lean towards smaller troughs. However, if water availability is less consistent or you're in an area prone to drought, larger troughs can provide a buffer, ensuring that your animals have access to water during drier periods.

Regularly observe the water trough during peak times, such as feeding or when animals are most active, to gauge if the current size meets the demand. Adjust the trough size accordingly if you notice signs of overcrowding or if some animals are consistently unable to access water. Striking the right balance in trough size ensures that your livestock stays well-hydrated, contributing to their overall health and productivity.

• All tanks must be more than 10m from a watercourse
• Conduct an environmental risk assessment. 
• A secondary containment may be necessary if in a high risk area
• Site the fertiliser tank on a flat concrete base
• Regularly inspect tank, pipework and fittings for damage or corrosion

Composting is the layering of organic waste to break down the organic material with the aid of microorganisms in the presence of oxygen. The end product is known as compost. 

Compost is a valuable soil improver for your garden. Unlike simply adding mineral fertilisers, compost retains and impoves the soil fertility. Another benefit of composting at home is that it can reduce your household waste by up to 30%. Composting at home is a way of protecting the environment. Composting also saves money by saving on domestic waste charges, saves on the cost of a bio-waste container and saves on fertiliser because compost is very rich in nutrients. To view our full range of Compost Bins click on Garden Compost Bins

When choosing a location, ensure your composter is easy access from the house and garden. You should be able to get to the compost bin easily with a wheelbarrow. Install the composter at least 0.5m away from your neighbours property. Your compost bin needs to be installed directly on the ground to allow the microorganisms to access the composter.You should fit grating on the base of your compost bin to protect against rodents.

A compost bin cannot be placed on concrete, stone or asphalt. It must be placed over the ground. Loosen the compressed ground before installing. The compost bin will work more effectively if you locate the composter in the sun or semi-shade under a tree or a hedge. This allows the heat of the sun to evaporate the water from it's contents but it must not dry out completely. Moisture is needed for the rotting process but not too much moisture. The compost bin should also be protected from the worst of the wind.

When first filling, use a bulky structured material like broken twigs as the bottom layer to allow air into the compost from below. This also allows excess water to drain off. Ensure a good mix of garden and kitchen waste in layers if possible. The better the compost is mixed, the easier it rots. Fill your compost bin slowly with organic waste produced on a daily basis. Wet materials should be mixed with dry one and coarse materials with fine ones. Be seslective in what you add to your compost bin.

In order to compost properly in the winter, the dry leaves and shredded garden waste collected in the autumn should be added to the compost bin. The contents of the composter break down slower over the winter months but the process will continue as the microorganisms actively produce heat.

Fruit and vegetable waste, coffee grounds, tea leaves, crushed eggshells, pot plants, cut flowers, spent potting soil, lawn cuttings and leaves are all great for composting. 

Meat, fish, leftover food, bread, suasage, cheese rind, bones, diseased plants, coal or charcoal ash, cigarettes, hoover bags, litter, medicines and nutshells should NOT be put into your compost bin.