Original
Participants
Brief
Chronology
Science
Aboard the
Elder
Exploration
&
Settlement
Growth Along Alaska's Coast
Alaska
Natives
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It has been more than 100 years
since Edward Henry Harriman assembled an elite crew of
scientists and artists and took them on a two-month survey
of the Alaskan coast. The 1899 expedition was the largest
and most famous the world had ever seen. Enthusiastic crowds
cheered their departure; newspapers all over the world
featured the story on their front pages.
One hundred twenty-six
passengers and crew traveled with the railroad tycoon on the
good ship George W. Elder. For Harriman's family it
was a hunting trip and adventure vacation; but for the
scientists aboard, it was serious business. The expedition
returned with over one hundred trunks of specimens and more
than 5000 photographs and colored illustrations.
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A columbine,
painted by Walpole, near Sitka, Alaska, June,
1900.
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image for a larger view
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The voyage produced a few, major
new scientific discoveries -- a previously unknown fiord and
glacier, for example -- but its value as an assessment and
survey of an Alaskan environment in flux is
unparalleled.
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The front of
Barry Glacier, photographed by C. Hart Merriam,
1899.
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image for a larger view
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The scientists produced thirteen
volumes of data that took twelve years to compile.
The Place, The People, The
Route
The expedition arrived when
Alaska's patina of pure coastal wilderness was beginning to
tarnish from heavy use of its natural resources. The Gold
Rush was in full swing, salmon canneries were working round
the clock, and fur seal rookeries exported thousands of
skins every year. The Alaska Native populations in some
areas had already been reduced to a tourist attraction; in
other places, Alaskan Natives competed with Chinese laborers
for low-wage jobs in fish factories.
In many instances, the
expeditioners observed and catalogued the flora and fauna of
a pristine, idealized wonderland. Yet the signs of
civilization and progress were difficult to ignore. The
Harriman Expedition chronicled an Alaska on the cusp of
inevitable -- and, in some instances, devastating -- change
to the environment.
The passengers on the expedition
ship were some of the most famous and influential people in
America at the time.
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The
Elder steams past Wellesley Glacier,
photographed by C. Hart Merriam, 1899.
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image for a larger view
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Edward Harriman was the nation's
most powerful railroad magnate, and C. Hart Merriam was one
of its most prominent scientists. John Burroughs was the
best selling nature writer of the day, and John Muir was the
much-admired father of the American conservation movement.
With these men traveled an eminent assembly of nature
artists, geologists, botanists, foresters and
zoologists.
The boat left Seattle on May 31,
1899. For the next two months, the Elder steamed
almost 9,000 miles along the coasts of British Columbia and
Alaska. They made some fifty stops, sometimes brief visits
that lasted an afternoon, sometimes longer excursions. At
several places, several of the travelers went ashore with
camping equipment and stayed overnight, so they could
collect more specimens or hike into a forest or across a
glacier. The Elder would steam off to some other
spot, and then return and pick the campers up at an agreed
upon time.
The Harriman Style
Life on the boat was luxurious
by any standard. The cabins and salons had been recently
redone. A chef prepared consistently excellent meals.
Harriman had even provided space for work on specimen
preservation and simple laboratory spaces for research.
There was a library with over 500 books about Alaska, and on
many days, one or another of the scientists would lecture
about his area of expertise.
This luxury was certainly a
contrast to life in Alaska in 1899. The territory had been
under Russian control until 1867, when the United States
bought "Seward's Icebox" for $7,200,000. The population
numbered 63,000, and included many Native Alaskans
struggling to maintain their traditional cultures in the
face of Russian, and then American occupation. Neither the
Russians nor the Americans had been particularly wise in
their dealings with the Native Alaskans; in some cases, they
had been ruthless. Life was also difficult for the hundreds
of prospectors who had come to Alaska during the Gold Rush.
For every man who made a fortune there were hundreds who
were left penniless.
The Harriman Expedition differed
from other surveys and expeditions to Alaska in that the
scientists and artists on board did not stay very long at
any one spot, and there was little chance for in-depth
scientific exploration.
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Members of
the Harriman Expedition on the wharf at Dutch
Harbor, 1899, photographed by Edward Curtis.
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image for a larger view
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But these scientists and
naturalists were careful observers and eager specimen
gatherers. Their records and collections have given us a
benchmark by which we can assess 100-years of change along
the Alaskan Coast. The fact that there were so many
scientists of the first rank on board the Elder makes their
observations all the more valuable.
Another difference stood out;
this was one individual's project. Edward H. Harriman
conceived, planned and paid for the trip himself. Newspapers
of the time praised him highly for this, and several
editorial writers called for other American millionaires to
sponsor such trips. And Harriman certainly put his own mark
on the entire voyage. It was he who insisted the boat sail
through the narrow, shallow inlet in Prince William Sound
that opened up into a previously undiscovered fiord. It was
he who chose to include stops at Kodiak and Siberia, and,
when the trip was over, it was he who paid for the
publication of the participants' scientific
writing.
A Monumental Record
It took 50 specialists the
better part of a decade to study, catalogue, edit and
publish the thirteen volumes that cover the scientific
observations and findings from the trip. Some of the volumes
are simply listings of field notes and specimens collected.
These still have value -- they present a baseline picture of
the plant and animal species common to coastal Alaska in
1899. Other volumes, particularly the glacier study written
by Grove Karl Gilbert, have been judged to be important
reports that broke new ground in scientific study. All told,
these volumes, along with diaries, letters, newspaper
accounts and scientific reviews form a monumental record of
this two- month trip to Alaska.
Of equal interest is the vast
collection of animal and plant specimens from the trip.
There were 8000 insects, 344 of which had been previously
unknown to scientists. The collections included thousands of
shellfish, birds and small mammals, and even a small number
of large mammal specimens. This natural history treasure
trove, much of it now at the Smithsonian Institution,
retains great research value. New testing techniques can,
even today, be used on some of these specimens, promising
fresh information about Alaska's ecosystems of a century
ago.
One interesting aspect of these
collections is the way in which our ideas about this kind of
collecting have changed. Consider the case of large mammals.
It would be unthinkable nowadays that the leader of a
scientific expedition would shoot a female grizzly and cub
out of season on Kodiak Island, but that is what happened in
early July on the Harriman expedition. Another kind of
collecting -- taking Native artifacts from the uninhabited
village at Cape Fox -- violated the civil as well as
scientific standards we would find acceptable today. Native
American artifacts are now protected by law, and, in fact,
some items taken in the late 19th and early 20th century
have been returned to the tribes that once owned and
produced these objects.
Looking Back
Revisiting these events reminds
us that the Harriman Expedition of 1899 was of its era, an
expedition launched at the end of the 19th century to
investigate a little-known region of North America. Now, at
the very beginning of the 21st century, we can relive this
expedition and find those things that connect us to, and
separate us from, the past.
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Edward H.
Harriman
Edward Henry Harriman in his New
York office.
Click image for a larger view
"Our Comfort and safety
required a large vessel and crew, and preparations
for the voyage were consequently on a scale
disproportionate to the size of the party. We
decided, therefore to include some guests who,
while adding to the interest and pleasure of the
expedition, would gather useful information and
distribute it for the benefit of others."
Edward H. Harriman,
"Preface," Harriman Alaska Series, Vol.
I.
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"We sail from here in
about two hours, and I have just time to say
another good-bye. The ship is furnished in fine
style, and I find that we are going just where I
want to go. Yakutat, Prince William Sound, Cooke
Inlet, et cetera. I am on the executive committee
and of course have something to say as to routes,
time to be spent at each point, et cetera. The
company is very harmonious for
scientists."
John Muir, in a letter
to his wife, Louie, dated June 1, 1899.
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"The expedition was a
thoroughly deluxe affair without any regard to
expense. The party included a number of interesting
personalities. Harriman himself, of course, was the
center and dynamo of the expedition. He was reputed
to be worth sixty million dollars, and was of the
type that issues orders and expects them to be
obeyed."
Trevor Kincaid, writing
about the expedition in an unpublished
memoir.
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"The panorama of snow
cloud mountains is beyond description. Many
glaciers are in sight. As I look out one huge one
is seen on the right. It is the Paterson. Muir says
the Muir Glacier alone contains more square miles
of ice than all the glaciers of Switzerland put
together."
Frederick Dellenbaugh,
from a diary entry dated June 5, 1899.
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