Photo/Illutration Many of the moss-covered arhat statues at Otagi Nenbutsuji temple showcase gentle expressions. (Yoshiaki Arai)

KYOTO--One stone statue of an enlightened Buddhist person here cradles a cat in its arms while another holds a book inscribed with the name “Soseki” after the famous author. One figurine even enjoys rice wine, happily sipping from a sake server and cup.

The 1,200 or so seemingly whimsical arhat statues that stand shoulder-to-shoulder at a temple in the city’s Ukyo Ward were rarely visited by outsiders until recently.

To visit the Otagi Nenbutsuji temple, many people now take a bus at Hankyu Arashiyama Station and travel toward the Oku-Saga area as throngs of sightseers pass on foot through the famed Togetsukyo bridge. The journey to the temple is a 15-minute ride. 

The old temple of the Tendai sect of Buddhism dates from the Nara Period (710-784). Otagi Nenbutsuji was relocated to its current site in 1922 during the Taisho Era (1912-1926).

Otagi Nenbutsuji was damaged so severely in a 1950 typhoon that it was called the “most desolate temple in Kyoto.” Buddhist sculptor Kocho Nishimura (1915-2003) took charge of rebuilding the temple as its chief priest.

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An arhat figurine cradles a cat at Otagi Nenbutsuji temple in Kyoto’s Ukyo Ward. (Yoshiaki Arai)

Hoping to make Otagi Nenbutsuji more familiar to people, Nishimura instituted a program in the 1980s where regular folk were invited to carve arhat statues reflecting their personal wishes.

Nishimura initially planned to introduce 500 arhat sculptures in tribute to the 500 disciples of the Buddha who turned out following his death.

However, the number grew to 1,200 over 10 years, as Otagi Nenbutsuji was flooded with people from across Japan eager to devote their works.

The lesser-known tourist spot used to attract only around 100 visitors daily. But its popularity surged this past spring after Otagi Nenbutsuji was written up on an overseas travel review site. Now, most of the 900 daily visitors come from outside Japan.

Sporting a soft smile, an American woman was charmed by the representations. She especially liked an arhat munching on corn.

One of Nishimura’s grandsons, Kosho Nishimura, 37, who serves as deputy chief priest of Otagi Nenbutsuji, feels deeply attached to his grandfather’s legacy.

“The statues may look familiar and welcoming to anyone, regardless of their country of origin, because they were made by ordinary mortals,” he said. “I will be delighted if visitors can feel something, such as a link with Buddhism, without taking it too seriously.”

Examining the moss-coated faces of the arhat statues one by one, viewers can imagine what the creators felt when working on the figurines. People’s underlying wishes may not have changed so dramatically over the course of nearly half a century.

On their return trip, tourists are advised to go downhill by foot at a leisurely pace and then take a short rest at a teahouse in the Saga Toriimoto district with its atmospheric townscape.

Walking through a renowned bamboo path in the neighborhood is an excellent option, too. During the stroll, perhaps one might consider what kind of arhat to carve for yourself.

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