WO2008015342A2

WO2008015342A2 - Use of a plant extract as active agent for increasing melanin synthesis in melanocytes

Info

Publication number: WO2008015342A2
Application number: PCT/FR2007/001334
Authority: WO
Inventors: Claude Dal Farra; Nouha Domloge; Dominique Peyronel
Original assignee: Societe D'extraction Des Principes Actifs Sa (Vincience)
Priority date: 2006-08-03
Filing date: 2007-08-02
Publication date: 2008-02-07
Also published as: WO2008015342A3

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a plant extract, alone or in combination with at least one other active agent, in a cosmetic composition or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, as active agent intended to promote increased melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or of the hair bulb. The plant extract is mainly constituted of compounds of protein and peptide nature and is obtained from plants selected from the genera Linum, Zea and Helianthus or the species Glycine max and Brassica napus.

Description

USE OF PLANT EXTRACT AS ACTIVE AGENT TO INCREASE MELANIN SYNTHESIS IN MELANOCYTES

The present invention relates to the use of a plant extract in a cosmetic composition; the extract or composition being intended to promote the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb, in order to give it a tanned appearance, or to prepare the skin for exposure to the sun. The present invention also relates to the use of a plant extract for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition; the extract or the composition being intended to promote the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb for therapeutic purposes, for repigmenting depigmented skin, for example in the case of vitiligo, or for pigmenting hair or hair, especially in the treatment and prevention of canities. The plant extract is mainly composed of protein and peptide compounds and is obtained from plants selected from the genera Linum, Zea, Helianthus and or species Glycine max and Brassica napus.

The color of human hair and skin is a function of various factors including seasons of the year, race, sex and age. It is mainly determined by the concentration of melanin produced by melanocytes. Melanocytes are specialized cells that, via particular organelles, melanosomes, synthesize melanin. The synthesis of melanin or melanogenesis is a complex process whose precise mechanisms are not yet elucidated and which schematically involves the following steps: Tyrosine * Dopa * ^" Dopaquinone * ^" Dopachrome * ^" Melanin

In the epidermis, the melanocyte is involved in the epidermal melanic unit which comprises a melanocyte surrounded by about 40 neighboring keratinocytes. As melanin is synthesized in the melanosomes, they move from the perinuclear region to the end of the melanocyte dendrites. By phagocytosis, the end of the dendrites is captured by keratinocytes, degraded membranes and redistributed melanosomes in the keratinocytes, where they will provide protection up to the natural desquamation of the cells. The production of melanin, as well as its transport, are regulated by various factors such as, for example, UV radiation, hormones or chemicals. Thus, an increase in exposure to UV radiation causes the synthesis of pigments and browning of the skin. The pigmentation of hair and hair requires the presence of melanocytes in the bulb of the hair follicle. The hair follicle is a tabular invagination of the epidemic that penetrates to the deep layers of the dermis. The melanocytes in the bulb of the hair follicle are in an active state, that is, they synthesize melanin. These pigments are transmitted to the keratinocytes intended to form the hair shaft, which will lead to the growth of a pigmented hair or hair.

It is accepted that canitia (natural whitening of hair) is associated with a decrease of melanin in the hair shaft.

Nowadays, it is important to look good and tanned skin is always a sign of good health. However, natural tanning is not always without risk insofar as it requires prolonged exposures to UV radiation, which are likely in return to induce an alteration of skin cells, especially in the case of individuals of clear phototypes. The skin ages prematurely, becomes dry and is characterized by many wrinkles and age spots. It is therefore desirable to find an alternative to natural tanning that is compatible with the health requirements of individuals. On the other hand, we know that in most populations the maintenance of a constant coloring of the hair, sign of youth, is a strong aspiration.

The search for compounds that can promote the synthesis of melanin in the skin and hair is a concern of dermatology and cosmetics. These new compounds are particularly useful as an alternative to sun exposure, to prepare the skin and protect it from the sun's rays, to obtain a tan more intense after exposure to the sun, to prolong the natural pigmentation of the skin after exposure to the sun. sun or to prevent and / or limit and / or stop the development of canities and even maintain the natural pigmentation of hair and / or gray or white hairs. By natural pigmentation of the skin is meant the coloring of the skin or hair determined by the melanin concentration.

In this respect, many solutions have been proposed by adding exogenous dyes. By exogenous dye, a dye, or a chemical substance, is meant to react with the superficial layers of the epidermis to cause the appearance of a pigmentation of the skin completely independent of the presence of melanin. One of the best known exogenous dyes is dihydroxyacetone, or DHA. However, only the stimulation of the pigmentation of the skin and / or the hair by the natural way allows a real protection vis-à-vis the UV radiations and remains the ideal way of stimulation of the pigmentation. Thus, it has been proposed in the prior art the preparation and use of activators for the biosynthesis of melanin (FR 2828097, FR 2831438, FR 2845285) involving hormones (alpha MSH or its derivatives WO2006037188) or prostaglandins. (WO9511003).

On the other hand, there are pathologies related to pigmentation such as vitiligo which is an autoimmune disease characterized by the appearance on the skin of white patches related to a lack of pigmentation or pityriasis versicolor, a superficial mycosis. causing the appearance of light spots that may appear immediately or after exposure to the sun.

The main object of the present invention is to provide a novel active agent which significantly promotes melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis and the hair bulb. The inventors have in fact demonstrated a biological activity and, more particularly dermatological and cosmetic, plant extracts obtained from plants selected from the genera Linum, Zea, Helianthus and or species Glycine max and Brassica napus. The use of plant extracts obtained from this type of plant in the field of cosmetics has already been described in numerous patents, such as patent FR 2,698,785, which describes a composition for regulating the melanocyte system based on the fractions. unsaponifiable maize, or patent WO 2004/01096 describing compositions based on linolenic polyphenols, or patent US 5,698,184 5, describing a pigmenting agent based on soya peptones complexed with metal ions. However, to the knowledge of the applicant, the use of plant extracts, mainly consisting of protein and peptide compounds, obtained from plants selected from the genera Linum, Zea, Helianthus or species Glycine max and Brassica napus, to promote the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidemic or hair bulb, has not yet been exposed.

By pro-pigmenting active agent is meant a compound capable of promoting the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidemic or hair bulb.

By hair and hair we mean all the hairy appendages and in particular also eyelashes and eyebrows.

The compositions according to the invention may be applied by any appropriate route, in particular oral, parenteral or external topical, and their formulation will be adapted by those skilled in the art, in particular for cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention are intended for topical administration. They contain a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a cosmetologically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium, in particular a dermatologically acceptable medium.

Thus, the subject of the invention is primarily the use in a cosmetic composition of a plant extract, consisting mainly of compounds of protein and peptide nature; the extract or the composition being intended to promote the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb.

The term "extract" refers to any isolated substance or preparation obtained from plant material. It is obtained, for example, by dissolving the active components by means of solvents (such as water, alcohol, etc.) then by concentration and purification of these active ingredients, for example by evaporation of the solvents.

More particularly according to the invention, one of the many plants of the genera Linum, Zea, Helianthus or species Glycine max and Brassica napus is used. When using the plants of the genus Helianthus, the species Helianthus annuus L. (sunflower) can advantageously be used according to the invention. When Linum plants are used, it is advantageous to use, according to the invention, the species Linum usitatissimum L.

When plants of the genus Zea are used, the Zea mays L. species can advantageously be used according to the invention.

According to the invention, the plant material used will be the grain and preferentially the grain freed from its envelope by a dehulling step. Any method of extraction or purification known to those skilled in the art can be used to prepare the hydrolyzate according to the invention.

More particularly, in a first step, the plant is ground using a plant mill. The powder thus obtained may subsequently be "delipidated" with the aid of a conventional organic solvent (such as, for example, an alcohol, hexane or acetone). After drying of the product thus obtained, a residue enriched in proteins is obtained, commonly called "cake".

A dephenolization step can then be performed. By the term "dephenolized" is meant a product that contains less than 0.005% phenols and polyphenols (eg, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid and quinic acid). The step of the process corresponding to the dephenolization is important insofar as the polyphenols are undesirable compounds in the cosmetic compositions. Indeed, they have the disadvantage of binding to proteins, which gives them a tanning effect, proteins becoming thereby insoluble in water. Furthermore, polyphenols are colored and evolve over time, which causes an unsightly effect of the compositions, including creams, which contain them.

The extraction of proteins from the plant is then conventionally carried out (Osborne, 1924); the crushed plant being suspended in an alkaline solution. The soluble fraction is collected after centrifugation and filtration steps, this crude solution then constituting a first form of the extract containing the proteins, carbohydrates and optionally lipids. Proteins are then precipitated by varying the ionic strength and acidifying the medium to remove soluble components and nucleic acids. The precipitate is then washed with a solvent such as, for example, ethanol or methanol and the solvent is evaporated by drying in vacuo. The protein-rich precipitate is redissolved in water or other solvent and then constitutes a more purified form of the extract.

The extraction can also be carried out in neutral or acidic medium. The precipitation step is then carried out using a conventional precipitation agent such as salts (sodium chloride, ammonium sulfate). The precipitate obtained can be separated from the precipitating agents by dialysis after redissolving in water or another solvent. At this stage, the extract obtained contains at least 70% of compounds of protein and peptide nature.

The isolated protein fraction according to the invention is then hydrolyzed under mild conditions to generate polypeptides and soluble peptides. Hydrolysis is defined as a chemical reaction involving the cleavage of a molecule by water, this reaction being possible in a neutral, acidic or basic medium. According to the invention, the hydrolysis is carried out chemically and / or advantageously by proteolytic enzymes. The use of endoproteases and exopeptidases of plant origin (papain, bromelain, ficin) originating from microorganisms may be mentioned. (Aspergillus, Rhizopus, Bacillus, etc.), or by so-called "industrial" enzymes such as alkalases, flavourzyme, etc. The culture medium thus hydrolyzed is centrifuged and filtered until a protein hydrolyzate is obtained. The solution obtained constitutes the active extract. The active extract may be further purified by fractionation, in particular by a chromatographic or purified method and concentrated by a dialysis method. Any of the more or less purified forms of the extract is then solubilized in water or in any mixture containing water, and then sterilized by ultrafiltration. The plant extract obtained according to the invention is analyzed qualitatively and quantitatively for its content of compounds of protein and peptide nature. Protein and peptide compounds are understood to mean protein fragments, peptides and free amino acids present in the mixture. The peptides, amino acids and protein fragments are determined according to conventional techniques, which are well known to those skilled in the art. Thus, according to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the active plant extract contains a quantity of protein and peptide compounds representing between 30 and 90% of the total weight of the dry matter, more particularly this amount is between 60 and 90% of the total weight of the dry matter. and 80% of the total weight of the dry matter, for extracts of soybean, corn and sunflower, or more particularly that amount is between 50 to 80% for extracts of flax and rapeseed.

The subject of the invention is the use of a plant extract according to the invention for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition; the extract or the composition being intended to promote the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or of the hair bulb in order to repigment the depigmented skin, for example in the case of vitiligo, or in order to pigment hair or hair , especially in the treatment and prevention of canities.

The invention also relates to the use of a plant extract according to the invention for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition; the extract or the composition being intended to attenuate the pigmentary disorders associated with skin hypopigmentation, in particular vitiligo.

The invention also relates to the use in a cosmetic composition, or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, of a plant extract according to the invention; the extract or the composition being intended to promote the pigmentation of the hairs and / or the hair.

The invention also relates to the use in a cosmetic composition, or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, of a plant extract according to the invention; the extract or the composition being intended to prepare the skin for exposure to the sun.

The invention also relates to the use in a cosmetic composition, or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, of a plant extract according to the invention; the extract or the composition being intended, by increasing melanin synthesis, to protect the skin from sunlight.

According to another form of the invention, the use of an extract according to the invention or the composition containing it is intended to protect the skin from environmental stresses.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extract is first solubilized in one or more cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable solvents such as water, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, ethanol, propanol or isopropanol.

According to yet another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extract is first solubilized in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical vector such as liposomes or adsorbed on powdery organic polymers, mineral supports such as talcs and bentonites, and more generally solubilized in or attached to any cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier.

To give an order of magnitude, in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present invention, the sunflower and corn extracts are used in an amount representing from 0.0001% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in one amount representing from 0.05% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

Under the same conditions, the flax, soya and rapeseed extracts are used in an amount representing from 0.0001% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in an amount representing from 0.05% to 5% of the total weight of the composition. Thus, the content of protein and peptide compounds in the compositions of the present invention will then be from 0.00003% to 18% and preferably from 0.015% to 9% of the total weight of the composition, for plant extracts of the present invention. sunflower and corn, containing between 30 and 90% of compounds of protein and peptide nature.

The content of protein and peptide compounds in the compositions of the present invention will then be from 0.0006% to 16% and preferably from 0.03% to 8% of the total weight of the composition, for plant extracts of sunflower and corn, containing between 60 and 80% of compounds of protein and peptide nature. The content of protein and peptide compounds in the compositions of the present invention will then be from 0.00003% to 18% and preferably from 0.015% to 9% of the total weight of the composition, for plant extracts of flax, soybean and rapeseed, containing between 30 and 90% of compounds of protein and peptide nature. The content of protein and peptide compounds in the compositions of the present invention will then be from 0.0006% to 16% and preferably from 0.03% to 4% of the total weight of the composition, for plant extracts of soya , containing between 60 and 80% of compounds of protein and peptide nature.

The content of protein and peptide compounds in the compositions of the present invention will then be from 0.0005% to 16% and preferably from 0.025% to 4% of the total weight of the composition, for plant extracts of flax and rapeseed, containing between 50 and 80% of compounds of protein and peptide nature.

In addition to the major advantage of the pigmentation of the skin in the sun protection, a pro-pigmenting compound according to the invention offers outlets in self-tanning products and products promoting tanning. For this, the invention relates to the use of extract for the manufacture of products for artificial tanning and / or browning of the skin.

The invention also relates to the use of extract to improve the intensity and / or the homogeneity and / or the persistence of the coloration produced on the skin and / or the hair.

Preferably, the compositions according to the present invention will be in a form suitable for topical administration to the skin, and cover all cosmetic or dermatological forms. These compositions must therefore contain a medium cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable, that is to say compatible with the skin, hair or hair. These compositions may especially be in the form of creams, O / W emulsions, W / O emulsions or multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions, gels, milks, lotions, sticks or even powders, suitable for application to the skin, lips and / or the hair.

These compositions comprise the excipients necessary for their formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, surfactants, antioxidants, dyes, preservatives, perfumes.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, active or non-active, and / or their quantity, so that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered.

The composition that may be used according to the invention may in particular consist of a composition for hair care, and in particular a shampoo, a conditioner, a setting lotion, a treatment lotion, a cream or a styling gel, a restructuring lotion for hair, a mask, etc. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used in particular in treatments using an application that is followed or not followed by rinsing, or in the form of shampoo. It can also be in the form of dye or mascara to be applied with a brush or a comb, in particular on eyelashes, eyebrows or hair.

It is, of course, obvious that the plant extracts, mainly consisting of protein and peptide compounds, according to the invention may be used as the only pro-pigmenting agent or in combination with at least one other active agent, in a composition cosmetic or for the preparation of a dermatological and / or pharmaceutical composition.

Advantageously, the compositions that can be used according to the invention also contain at least one other agent that promotes the pigmentation of the skin, hair and / or hair. Such compounds are in particular tyrosinase substrates, such as tyrosine or L-DOPA, prostaglandins, or activating compounds of the cAMP pathway such as pro-opiomelanocortin derivatives, adenosine, or forkoline or its derivatives. Plant extracts such as bitter orange (citrus aurantium) or chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifoliurri), described in particular in patents FR 2845285 and EP1014934.

Such compounds are also found in the family of exogenous dyes of the superficial layers of the epidermis, such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA), perythrulose, extracts of henna leaves, described in particular in patents EP 0742002 and FR2779958.

Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear better on reading the examples given by way of illustration and not limitation.

Example 1 Preparation of a Linseed Extract (Linum usitatissimum L.) In a first step, 1 kg of flaxseed is delipidated by the action of an organic solvent: hexane. After drying the product, a residue enriched in proteins (the cake) is obtained. The residue is then diluted in a slightly basic aqueous solution and then hydrolyzed by adding an enzyme: papain, at 60 ° C. for 4 hours with stirring. This mixture is then heated to 80 ° C, centrifuged and filtered until a clear solution is obtained. It is then concentrated under vacuum, then filtered again on filter plates and sterilizing cartridge. A hydrolyzate titrating at 30 g / l of compounds of protein nature is then obtained. The hydrolyzed extract contains a quantity of protein compounds representing approximately 65% of the total weight of the dry matter. This hydrolyzate is redissolved in dipropylene glycol.

Example 2 Preparation of Dephenolated Extracts from Corn (Zea Mays) 100 grams of maize cake are initially dephenolized to a phenol content of less than 0.005%.

Then the proteins are precipitated in order to increase their concentration.

Then, the product is enzymatically hydrolyzed in aqueous medium by an enzymatic cocktail (protease, lipase and cellulase) at different pH and temperatures for 4 to 8 hours and then filtered. Activated carbons are then used to obtain a product that satisfies the cosmetic criteria in terms of odor and color. The product is finally sterilized by sterilizing filtration and heating.

The hydrolyzate thus obtained contains more than 80% of proteins and less than 0.005% of phenols. EXAMPLE 3 Preparation of Dephenolated Extracts from Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) 100 grams of sunflower cake are initially dephenolized until a phenol content of less than 0.005% is obtained. Then the proteins are precipitated in order to increase their concentration. Then, the product is enzymatically hydrolyzed in aqueous medium by an enzymatic cocktail (protease, lipase and cellulase) at different pH and temperatures for 4 to 8 hours and then filtered. Activated carbons are then used to obtain a product that satisfies the cosmetic criteria in terms of odor and color. The product is finally sterilized by sterilizing filtration and heating. The hydrolyzate thus obtained contains more than 80% of proteins and less than 0.005% of phenols.

EXAMPLE 4 Preparation of Extracts From Soybean Meal (Glycine max L.)

The cakes are the solid residues obtained after extraction of the oil from the soya beans. They represent 50 to 75% of the seed mass. The cakes are suspended in an aqueous alkaline solution (1/10 dilution). This mixture is stirred for a time long enough to allow the solubilization of the soluble fractions. The extraction temperature is variable (between 4 and 80 ° C); preferably the operation will be performed cold. After this extraction phase, the medium is clarified by centrifugation and then filtered through a plate filter. This filtrate, which contains the soluble fractions of soybeans, is then precipitated by varying the ionic strength in a neutral or acidic medium to remove soluble carbohydrate components, lipids, and nucleic acids. The supernatant is removed and the precipitate is then washed with a solvent such as, for example, ethanol or methanol and the solvent is evaporated by drying in vacuo.

At this stage, about 50 grams of light yellow powder of crude protein extract are obtained containing: Proteins: 75% Carbohydrates: 20% - Lipids: 5%

The protein-rich precipitate is dissolved in water or another solvent. The extraction can also be carried out in neutral or acidic medium. The crude protein extract is then subjected to a series of gentle and selective hydrolyses consisting of chemical and enzymatic hydrolyses. By way of example, mention may be made of hydrolysis in the presence of exopeptidases (papain, ficin).

The hydrolyzate is then purified and membrane-dialyzed to remove the high molecular weight compounds.

A light-colored hydrolyzate titrant of 15 to 30 g / l of dry extract and containing a quantity of compounds of protein and peptide nature representing approximately 70% of the total weight of the dry matter is then obtained. The hydrolyzate is then diluted so that the protein concentration determined by the Lowry method is between 0.5 and 2 g / l.

Example 5: Preparation of an extract of rapeseed (Brassica napus).

In a first step, 1 kg of the rapeseeds are delipidated by the action of an organic solvent: hexane. After drying the product, a residue enriched in proteins (the cake) is obtained. The cake is then diluted in a slightly basic aqueous solution and then hydrolyzed by adding an enzyme: papain, at 60 ^° C. for 4 hours with stirring. This mixture is then heated to 80 ^° C., centrifuged and filtered until a clear solution is obtained. It is then concentrated under vacuum, then filtered again on filter plates and sterilizing cartridge. A brown-colored hydrolyzate titrating at 30 g / l of protein-like compounds is then obtained. The hydrolyzed extract contains a quantity of protein compounds representing approximately 65% of the total weight of the dry matter. This hydrolyzate is redissolved in dipropylene glycol.

EXAMPLE 6 Ex Vivo Study of the Effect of the Extracts According to Examples 1 to 5 on the Synthesis of Melanin

The purpose of this ex vivo study is to demonstrate the increase in melanization provided by the extracts according to Examples 1 to 5. Protocol: Human skin biopsies 6 mm in diameter are maintained in culture ex vivo in the presence of a specific medium (DMEM lg / L, HAMF 12, FCS and antibiotics) on inserts deposited in 6-well plates. The biopsies are cultured for 48 hours and receive or not 2 applications per day of extract according to Examples 1 to 5, at a concentration of 1%. The biopsies are then fixed in 9% formalin, NaCl (150 mM) for 10 hours and then included in the paraffin. 3 μm thick skin sections are then made and the melanin is colored specifically by the Fontana-Masson technique.

Results: The skin sections that did not receive the application of extract according to Examples 1 to 5 have a low intensity coloration. On the contrary, the skin sections having received the extract applications according to Examples 1 to 5 show a markedly increased color intensity. In addition, melanin is located in the basal layer, but also transported in the supra-basal layers.

Conclusions: 48 hours of treatment allowed to induce a strong increase of melanin synthesis by melanocytes and to stimulate the whole process of distribution of melanin in the epidermis.

Example 7 Preparation of compositions

These compositions were obtained by simple mixing of the various components. The quantities indicated are given as a percentage of weight.

1-oil-in-water emulsion

Oily phase:

B Montanov 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside) 5.00%

"Jojoba oil 5.00% u Vaseline oil 5.00%

"Isopropyl Palmitate 7.00%

Aqueous phase :

"Glycerin 5.00% m Allantoin 0.10% m Extract according to Example 1 1.00%

Sepigel 305 (Polyacrylamide and C13-14 Isoparaffm and Laureth-7) 0.30%

"Conservative 0.50%

"Perfume 0.50% m Water qs 100%

2- Gel

"Carbopol Ultrez 10 (2% solids) 25.00%

B Triethanolamine 0.50%

"Extract according to example 2 5.00% m Conservative 0.20%

"EDTA (sequestering) 0.10% m Perfume 0.50% m Water qs 100%

3- Lotion m Mono Propylene Glycol 1.00% m Allantoin 0.30%

M Glycerin 1.00% - Cetiol HE (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) 1.00%

"Extract according to example 3 0.5% m Preservative 0.20%

M Perfume 0.50%

"Water qs 100%

4-Oil-in-water self-tanning emulsion Oily phase: β Glycerol mono / distearate mixture 2.00% B Stearyl alcohol 1.00% m Palm oil stearic acid 1.50%

• Dimethylsiloxane poIy 2.00%

• Poly dimethylsiloxane mixture alpha-omega 3.00% dihydroxyl / cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (14.7 / 85.3)

• Lauroyl isopropyl sarconisate 15.00% Aqueous phase:

"Dihydroxyacetone 5.00%

B Glycerin 5.00%

• Hexadecyl alcohol phosphate, potassium salt 1.00%

• Polyacrylic acid 0.30% m Triethanolamine qsp pH: 7

M Dl-alpha-tocopheryl acetate 0.50% M Extract according to Example 4 1.00% B Demineralized water qs 100.00% 5-Self-tanning water-in-oil emulsion

Oily phase:

B Polydimethyl / methylcetyl methylsiloxane oxyethylenated 2.00% B Phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane 3.00%

B Lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate 10.00%

B Isohexadecane 5.00%

B Cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane 3.00%

Water phase: M Dihydroxyacetone 2.00%

B Glycerin 5.00%

• Magnesium sulphate 0.70%

B Extract according to example 5 1.00%

B Demineralized water qs 100.00%

6- Self tanning lotion "Dihydroxyacetone 5.00%

"Lyophilized extract of Εclipta prostata 0.40% m 96% ethanol 13.00% u Ethoxydiglycol 7.00%

"PPG-1-PEG-9-Lauryl Glycol Ether 5.00%

B Parabens 0.25%

B Extract according to example 2 1.00%

B Demineralized water qs 100.00%

7- Self-tanning oil-in-water emulsion B Water 66.80%

B Ethoxydiglycol 5.00%

B Xanthan gum 0.30% B Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose 0.30%

B Cetyl alcohol 2.00%

B Stearyl alcohol 2.00%

B Octyl palmitate 2.00%

B Glucam P-20 distearate 2.00% • Steareth-20 1.00% "Dimethicone 1.00%" Polysorbate 60 1.00% β Dimethicone Copolyol / IPDI Copolymer 1.00% β Glycerylstearate and PEG-100 Stearate 0.25% "Actiplex 335 Lipo OP 0.1%" Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1% "Water 10.975%

• Dihydroxyacetone 2.00% M Nipaguard MPA 0.60%

"Panthenol, 50% aqueous 0.40%

"Sorbic acid 0.05% β Sodium metabisulphite 0.025%

"Extract according to example 3 1.00%

Claims

1. Use of a plant extract obtained from plants selected from the genera Linum, Zea, Helianthus or the species Glycine max and Brassica napus, mainly consisting of protein and peptide compounds, alone or in combination with at least one other active agent in a cosmetic composition, the extract or the composition containing it being intended to promote the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb and to improve the natural pigmentation of the skin.

2. Use of a plant extract obtained from plants selected from the genera Linum, Zea, Helianthus or the species Glycine max and Brassica napus, mainly consisting of protein and peptide compounds, alone or in combination with at least one other active agent, for the preparation of a dermatological and / or pharmaceutical composition, the extract or the composition containing it being intended to promote the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb and to attenuate pigmentary disorders associated with hypopigmentation of the skin.

3. Use according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the plants belonging to the genus Linum are of the species Linum usitatissimum L. (flax).

4. Use according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the plants belonging to the genus Zea are of the species Zea mays L. (corn).

5. Use according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the plants belonging to the genus Helianthus are of the species Helianthus annuus L. (sunflower).

6. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the plant extract contains a quantity of compounds of protein and peptide nature, representing between 30% and 90% of the total weight of the dry matter and more particularly between 60% and 80% of the total weight of the dry matter.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is used in an amount representing from 0.0001% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in an amount representing 0.05 % to 10% for the extracts of corn and sunflower, or preferably in an amount representing from 0.05% to 5% of the total weight of the composition, for extracts of flax, soybean and rapeseed.

8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in a form suitable for topical application comprising a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium.

9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition also contains at least one exogenous dye epidermis surface layers and / or at least one pro-pigmenting active agent different from said plant extract according to the Claims 1 to 6, selected from tyrosinase substrates or prostaglandins or activating compounds of the cAMP pathway or plant extracts pigment.

10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract or the composition containing it is intended, by increasing the synthesis of melanin, to prepare the skin for exposure to the sun or to protect the skin. radiation from the sun.

11. Use according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the extract or composition containing it is intended to protect the skin from external aggressions, in particular UV rays.

12. Use according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the extract or the composition containing it are intended for artificial tanning and / or browning of the skin.

13. Use according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the extract or the composition containing it are intended to improve the intensity and / or homogeneity and / or the persistence of the pigmentation of the skin and / or hair.

14. Use according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the extract or the composition containing it are intended to prevent or treat the whitening of hair and / or hair.