WO2005023975A1

WO2005023975A1 - Multi-phase cosmetic agent for cleansing hair and skin

Info

Publication number: WO2005023975A1
Application number: PCT/EP2004/009511
Authority: WO
Inventors: Matthias Hloucha; Kerstin Dorn; Lars Jung; Gabriele Weser
Original assignee: Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
Priority date: 2003-09-03
Filing date: 2004-08-26
Publication date: 2005-03-17

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition comprising at least two aqueous phases, and to the use thereof as a body-care and/or body-cleansing product, particularly for cleansing hair and skin, particularly for cleansing skin and hair, above all, as shower gel, shampoo, bubble bath, liquid soap, make-up remover or a face cleanser.

Description

Multi-phase cosmetic product for hair and skin cleaning

The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least two aqueous phases and its use as a personal care and / or body cleanser, in particular for cleaning skin and hair, especially as a shower bath, shampoo, bubble bath, liquid soap, make-up remover or facial cleanser.

In practice, there is a need for compositions which form two or more phases, in particular for use as agents for body care and / or cleaning. Various compositions have already been described in this connection.

For example, US 3,718,609, US 3,810,478 and US 3,533,955 describe oil / water emulsions that can be used for this purpose. A disadvantage of these oil / water emulsions, however, is that the oily phase causes an oily feeling on the skin, which is usually uncomfortable for the user.

To deal with this problem, two-phase systems have recently been developed which comprise two aqueous phases. For example, WO 02/15849 describes a two-phase aqueous system which contains between 5 and 35% by weight detergents, between 1 and 12% by weight thickener, between 4 and 20% by weight polyalkylene glycol and a salt selected from the group consisting of Contains alkali or alkaline earth sulfate, bisulfate, carbonate or bicarbonate. One problem with this system, however, is that large amounts of salt have to be used to enable phase separation. As can be seen from the exemplary embodiments, the amount of salt used is between 10 and 25% by weight. These high amounts of salt have a bad effect on the foaming, are also ecologically questionable and also impart a dull skin feeling. Furthermore, the phase separation in the system described in WO 02/15849 is slow. Furthermore, EP 0116422 describes a two-phase aqueous system which contains sodium hexametaphosphate in amounts between 16 and 40% by weight. Furthermore, sulfates such as di- or triethanolamine lauryl sulfate are preferably added in large amounts in order to enable phase separation. However, the high amounts of phosphate mentioned should be avoided for ecological reasons. In addition, the high salt concentrations impart a dull skin feeling.

EP 0175485 describes two-phase aqueous systems which are based on the use of complexing agents. However, their use is problematic and should be avoided if possible.

No. 6,180,587 describes the use of a two-phase aqueous system in which a copolymer of acrylic acid and maleic acid and an alkoxy sulfate are used. This system is based on a combination of polyacid and anionic surfactant.

JP 06033410 and JP 62263297 describe two-phase systems in which anionic surfactants are used in combination with polyacrylates or polyamides.

WO 00/61716 describes multi-phase preparations which contain at least one dissolved surface-active compound, at least one dissolved polymer compound and at least one water-soluble, mono- or polyhydric alcohol having 2-9 C atoms.

The object of the present invention was to provide two-phase or multi-phase aqueous compositions, with at least two visually separated phases, which are advantageous compared to the multi-phase aqueous compositions described in the prior art, in particular those which are used for personal care and / or cleaning can be used, for example by being more environmentally friendly or cheaper, giving a better skin feel, better foaming enable or enable a faster phase separation than the multiphase aqueous systems described in the prior art.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that aqueous compositions can advantageously be used as multi-phase systems for personal care and cleaning, which comprise the following components: a) at least one nonionic and / or at least one amphoteric surfactant in an amount of 0.1-25% by weight. %, preferably in an amount of 1-15% by weight, b) at least one salt in an amount of 0.1-12% by weight, preferably 1-10% by weight, particularly preferably 4- 8% by weight, c) at least one water-soluble polymer in an amount of 0.5-20% by weight, preferably 1-14% by weight, particularly preferably 3-10% by weight, d) at least one polar organic compound in an amount of 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, particularly preferably 1-8% by weight.

The information here relates to the overall system. The various phases of the multiphase system, which are at rest, can have a different composition.

In principle, any mixture of nonionic and amphoteric surfactants can be contained in the composition. In a preferred embodiment, however, the agent according to the invention contains no amphoteric surfactants. The nonionic surfactant is preferably in an amount of 0.1-15% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-8% by weight, especially in an amount of 2-4 or 4-6% by weight. , each based on the total weight, contained in the agent according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains no nonionic surfactants. The amphoteric surfactant is preferably in an amount of 0.1-15% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 - 8 wt .-%, especially in an amount of 2-6 or 4-6 wt .-%, contained in the agent according to the invention.

If both nonionic and amphoteric surfactants are used in the composition, then the nonionic surfactants are preferably present in an amount of 0.1-15% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-8% by weight, especially in one Amount of 4-6% by weight and the amphoteric surfactants preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight. % contain.

The composition according to the invention is distinguished by the fact that it represents a multiphase system which comprises at least two visually separated aqueous phases, which are preferably both clear. These are advantageously two aqueous phases; no oil phase is formed. This has the advantage that the user does not feel greasy on the skin.

The volume ratio of the different phases of the multiphase composition according to the invention can have any value. In the case of two-phase compositions, the volume ratio can in particular be between 95: 5 and 5:95. A value between 70:30 and 30:70 is preferred here.

After shaking the multiphase system, a mixture advantageously forms temporarily, the various phases are thus advantageously dispersible in one another temporarily with movement. Preferably, however, reversible separation into the different phases takes place again quickly. A clearly visible phase separation can be seen after twelve hours, preferably after six hours, particularly preferably within one hour after shaking.

The composition is also preferably characterized by a good feeling on the skin, particularly since the use of high amounts of salt is dispensed with can be. Further advantages of the composition according to the invention are preferably good foam formation and good skin tolerance.

The sum of the amount of salt and the amount of polar organic compound in the composition according to the invention is preferably between 5 and 20% by weight.

The present invention furthermore relates to a process for producing a composition according to the invention, the aforementioned components of the composition according to the invention being mixed with one another in the amounts stated.

The present invention furthermore relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as a body care and / or body cleaning agent, the body care and / or body cleaning agent being in particular a shower bath, shampoo, foam bath, a liquid soap, a make-up remover or can be a facial cleanser.

The constituents of the composition according to the invention are explained in more detail below by way of example.

Nonionic surfactants

Nonionic surfactants contain z as a hydrophilic group. B. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Examples of such compounds are: C8-C22-alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues,

Addition products of 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, - C - ^ - C ^ 'Föttsäuremono- and -diester of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and

- Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula RO- (S) _x .

The alkyl radical R here preferably contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphatic radicals are preferred. Examples of such alkyl radicals are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only a homogeneous alkyl radical R, in particular a Cβ-, C-io-, Cι ₂ -, C - or Ci ₆ - alkyl group. Usually, however, these compounds are made from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the respective working up of these compounds.

Particularly preferred are those alkyl polyglycosides in which R consists essentially of Cβ and C ^ Q alkyl groups, essentially of C ^ - ^{ur |} d C ^ -Alkylgruppen consists essentially of Cß- to C- _j g -alkyl groups or essentially from C ^ - ^D ' ^s C- _j g -alkyl groups.

Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as the sugar building block S. Sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are usually used. Examples of such sugars are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are Glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred. In particular, it can be alkyl glucosides which are available under the trade names APG600 and Plantacare®1200UP and / or under the INCI name Lauryl Glucoside.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides with x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.4 are very particularly preferred.

Amphoteric surfactants

According to the invention, the term amphoteric surfactants also includes the group of surfactants known to the person skilled in the art as zwitterionic surfactants. Suitable amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants which can be used according to the invention contain a basic and an acidic group, which form an inner salt. The cationic group is in particular a quaternary ammonium group, but it can also be, for example, a phosphonium, imidazolium or sulfonium group. The anionic group is in particular a carboxylate or sulfonate group, but it can also be a phosphonate or sulfate group, for example.

The amphoteric surfactants which can preferably be used according to the invention are compounds of the general formula (I)

R ^

R ¹ - N ⁺ - R ⁴ X ^" (I).

R ^J

where R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic or aromatic hydrophobic, optionally substituted group, R ² and R ³ independently of one another are preferably hydrogen or a short, optionally substituted alkyl group, and where R ² and R ^{3 can} also be linked to one another, and where R ^{4 is} preferably an optionally substituted alkylene or polyalkoxy group, and where X ^"is preferably a carboxylate or Sulfonate group stands.

Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

In a preferred embodiment, betaine compounds of the formula (II) are used as amphoteric surfactants,

R ^

R ¹ - N ⁺ - CH ₂ COO ^" (II),

R ^ά

in which R ^{1 is} an alkyl radical with 8 to 25, preferably 10 to 21 carbon atoms, which is optionally interrupted by heteroatoms or heteroatom groups, and R ² and R ^{3 are} identical or different alkyl radicals with 1 to 3 carbon atoms. C 1 -C ₁₈ -Alkyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, C 1 -C 4 -alkylamido propyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine and cocoamidopropylbetaine are preferred.

Sulfobetaines are also preferred. In this case a sulfonate group is the anionic group instead of the carboxy group. Bis (hydroxyethyl) sulfobetaine and cocoamidopropyl sulfobetaine are particularly suitable. However, betaines and / or sulfobetaines can generally be used, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 2,082,275, US Pat. No. 2,702,279 or US Pat. No. 2,255,082. salts

A salt or a mixture of several salts is contained in the composition according to the invention as a further component. The salt preferably contains inorganic salts and / or salts of organic acids, in particular from the group of the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium salts of sulfuric acid, hydrohalic acids and organic acids, and mixtures thereof, in particular sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium citrate , Potassium citrate, and sodium lactate. Salts of organic acids, in particular polyvalent organic acids, especially di-, tri- and tetracarboxylic acids and / or salts of higher polycarboxylic acids, that is to say, for example, of organic acids which are linked to one another via functional groups, such as iminodisuccinic acid, are particularly preferred. The organic acids can also carry further functional groups. In an embodiment preferred according to the invention, the organic acids comprise 4 to 8 carbon atoms and 2 to 4 carboxylate groups, which may in particular be oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or iminodisuccinic acid. Citrates, the salts of citric acid, and iminodisuccinates, the salts of iminodisuccinic acid are particularly preferred. The salt of organic acid, and in particular citric acid and / or iminodisuccinic acid, can be, for example, a sodium, potassium or ammonium salt. The salt of citric acid and / or the salt of iminodisuccinic acid is preferably in the composition in an amount between 0.1 and 10% by weight, particularly preferably between 1 and 8% by weight, especially between 2 and 5 or 4 and 7 % By weight.

Polar organic compounds

Suitable polar organic compounds which may be included in the compositions of this invention are for example selected from the group consisting of mono- and polyhydric alcohols, in particular mono- and divalent C ₂ - ₆ alkanols, particularly n-propanol, i-propanol or 1, 6-hexanediol, and esters of organic acids and ethers, in particular triethyl citrate and also, for example, also di-n-octyl ether, decyl oleate, Glycerol monooleate and / or glycerol monolaurate. Particular preference is given according to the invention, the esters, in particular C-ι- ₄ alkyl esters, polyvalent organic acids, especially organic acids, the total of 4 to 8 carbon atoms and 2 to 4 carboxylate groups include, where the acids may also be mono- or polysubstituted can be, in particular by hydroxyl groups, with triethyl citrate being very particularly preferred as the ester of the organic acid.

The% by weight ratio between polar organic compound and salt is preferably between 0.1 and 10, particularly preferably between 0.2 and 7, in particular when triethyl citrate is used as the polar organic compound and a salt of citric acid and / or iminodisuccinic acid as the salt is used.

Water soluble polymers

Suitable water-soluble polymers are all water or aqueous surfactant solutions at 20 ° C. in amounts of at least 0.5% by weight of natural or synthetic high-molecular substances with recurring structural elements. Natural polymers are understood to be water-soluble polysaccharides or the water-soluble derivatives of water-insoluble polysaccharides. Suitable natural polymers are e.g. Starch, guar, cellulose ethers, especially methyl celluloses or hydroxyethyl celluloses, and carboxymethyl celluloses. Suitable synthetic polymer compounds are e.g. Polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl acetates and polyalkylene glycols with molecular weights of more than 1000 g / mol or D. Also water-soluble copolymers of acrylic acid, acrylamide, vinyl pyrrolidone and other water-soluble monomers with non-water-soluble comonomers are polymer compounds in the sense of the present invention suitable.

Polymer compounds selected from polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols and polyvinylpyrrolidine with molecular weights of more than 1000 D are preferably suitable for the preparation of the preparations according to the invention. The amounts of polymer compounds required for segregation depend on the type and molecular weight of the polymer compound, it generally applies that the required amounts the lower the higher the Molecular weight of the polymer compound is. The upper limit of the content of polymer compounds should be chosen so that the preparation does not gel and separation is not hindered by the toughness of the phases.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polymer is polyethylene glycol (PEG), in particular PEG with a molecular weight greater than or equal to 3000 g / mol (D), especially greater than or equal to 6000 g / mol (D), in particular greater than or equal to 10,000 g / mol (D).

The% by weight ratio between polar organic compound and water-soluble polymer is preferably between 0.1 and 10, particularly preferably between 0.2 and 4.5 or between 4 and 7, in particular if the polar organic compound is triethyl citrate is.

Anionic surfactants

In an embodiment of the invention preferred according to the invention

Compositions may also contain anionic surfactants.

In this embodiment, these are preferably in an amount between 0 and 30% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount between 0.7 and 20% by weight.

%, especially in an amount between 5 and 15 wt .-% or 10 and 20 wt .-%, contain.

Suitable anionic surfactants in compositions according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a hydrophilic anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups can be contained in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants, each in the form of the sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group: linear fatty acids with 10 to 22 carbon atoms Atoms (soaps), Amide ether carboxylates of the formula [R-NH (-CH2-CH ₂ -0) n-CH2-COO] mZ, in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 2 to 29 carbon atoms, n is an integer of 1 to 10, m represents the numbers 1 or 2 and Z represents a cation from the group of the alkali or alkaline earth metals, acyl sarcosides with 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides with 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group, Acyl isothionates with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates with 12 to 18 C-atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 12 to 18 C-atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 12 to 18 C-atoms, alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-0 (-CH2-CH2θ) _x -Sθ3H, in the R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 10 to 18 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, Coconut monoglyceride sulfates, acylglutamates.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

In a particularly preferred embodiment according to the invention, however, the anionic surfactant is a fatty alcohol ether sulfate, in particular sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES), also known under the trade name TEXAPON®N70 (Cognis). SLES includes C ₁₂ -C ₄ alkyl groups, two ethoxy groups and a sulfate group.

The use of a fatty alcohol ether sulfate in combination with an alkyl polyglycoside is particularly preferred according to the invention.

Other components

The composition according to the invention can contain further constituents, in particular those which are customary for a personal care product and / or cleaning agent, in particular those such as those for a personal care product and / or body cleaning product, in particular for cleaning skin and hair, especially for a shower bath , a shampoo, a bubble bath, a liquid soap, a make-up remover and / or for a facial cleanser. These can in particular be selected from the group consisting of buffer salts, perfumes, preservatives, care substances, cosmetic or dermatological active substances, complexing agents, antioxidants and dyes. Furthermore, for example, hydrophobically modified polymers and / or heavy metal salts and / or oils can also be present in small amounts.

Of particular importance is the addition of dyes, in particular those which have a different solubility in the various segregated aqueous phases and in this way give the compositions a particularly appealing appearance. The dyes which can be used according to the invention include, for example, the water-soluble dye dyes bluel (Cl 42090), green3 (Cl 42053), greenδ (Cl 61570), greenδ (Cl 59040), yellowδ (Cl 19140), yellowö (Cl 15985), yellowlO (Cl 47005), red4 (Cl 14700), red33 (Cl 17200) red40 (Cl 16035). "Cl" stands for "Color Index". The dyes are listed, for example, in the reference work of the German Research Foundation (DFG) entitled "Cosmetic Colorants", 3rd edition, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH, D-6940 Weinheim, 1991, ISBN 3-527-27020-5.

Cationic polymers and cationic surfactants are suitable as care substances. As care substances according to the invention preferably cationic polymers may be selected from the following group are used: - quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® (National Starch) and polymer Ucare JR ^® (Amerchol) commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer Ucare JR ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, - Cationic guar derivatives, in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia ^® guar (Cognis) and Jaguar ^® (Rhodia) Products , - Polymer Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The products commercially available under the names Merquat ^® 100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) (Ondeo Nalco) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers, - vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, in particular with vinylpyrrolidone, as they are be offered under the name Luviquat ^® (BASF).

EXEMPLARY EMBODIMENTS

The INCI nomenclature according to CTFA is used in the following recipe examples. Basic recipes (content in% by weight)

Basic recipes (content in% by weight)

Basic recipes (content in% by weight)

Sample formulations for a 2-phase shower gel

Sample formulations for a 2-phase bubble bath

Sample formulations for a 2-phase shampoo

Claims

claims

1. A composition with at least two visually separated aqueous phases, comprising the following components: a) at least one nonionic surfactant and / or at least one amphoteric surfactant in an amount of 0.1-20% by weight, b) at least one salt in an amount from 0.1 to 12% by weight, c) at least one water-soluble polymer in an amount from 0.5 to 20% by weight, d) at least one polar organic compound in an amount from 0.1 to 20% by weight %.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant is an alkyl polyglycoside.

3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant is a betaine or sulfobetaine.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the salt comprises a salt of an organic acid.

5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the salt of an organic acid is a salt of citric acid and / or a salt of iminodisuccinic acid.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the water-soluble polymer is a polyalkylene glycol.

7. The composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the polyalkylene glycol is a polyethylene glycol.

8. The composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the polyalkylene glycol has a molecular weight of at least 6000 g / mol on average.

9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the polar organic compound is selected from mono- or polyhydric alcohols, ethers and esters of organic acids.

10. The composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the polar organic compound is selected from triethyl citrate, n-propanol, i-propanol and 1,6-hexanediol.

11.Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the sum of the amount of salt and the amount of polar organic compound is between 5 and 20% by weight.

^ .Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the composition additionally comprises at least one anionic surfactant.

13. The composition according to claim 12, characterized in that the anionic surfactant is a fatty alcohol ether sulfate.

14. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 as a personal care and / or personal cleanser.

15. Use according to claim 14, characterized in that the body care and / or body cleaning agent is a shower bath, shampoo, foam bath, a liquid soap, a make-up remover or a facial cleanser.