US2629099A - Brassiere - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 24, 1953 s. H. PHILLIPS BRASSIERE 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed July 1, 1948 INVENTOR Spam/45 6f Pfl/zz/ps ATTORNEY Feb. 24, 1953 s. H. PHILLIPS BRASSIERE Filed July 1, 1948 3 SheetsSheet 2 INVENTOR Spam/45y A! p/l/LL/Pi ATTO R N EY Feb. 24, 1953 s. H. PHILLIPS BRASSIERE Filed July 1, 1948 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR. STA/v15) bf P/l/ZZ/AS w QL Patented Feb. 24, 1953 2,629,099 BR-ASSIERE Stanley H. Phillips, Stratford, Conn., assignor to The Warner Brothers Company, Bridgeport, Conn., a corporation of Connecticut Application July 1, 1948, Serial No. 36,370

6 Claims.

This invention relates to brassieres, and is particularly concerned with the provision of a novel and improved brassire capable of supporting the breasts with superior comfort and effectiveness.

An object of the invention is to provide a brassire wherein there is obtained, with light weight fabrics, a control over the breasts at least equal in firmness and supporting effect to that obtainable with heavier fabrics or with multiply materials, and with markedly enhanced comfort to the wearer.

In carrying out the invention, I first produce in a strip of fabric lines of stitching of curved or arcuate form each representing the path of travel of a point along an arc, the center of curvature of which moves in a given direction during the travel of said point along said are. Effects both advantageous mechanically and pleasing in appearance are obtained by having the center of the arcuate stitching move forward slightly during the formation of a given extent of are, so as to produce a series of intersecting arcuate stitch lines defining curvilinear quadrilateral figures of areas diminishing from the inner central regions of the arcs to their outer extremities.

From the fabric having the pre-stitched intersecting arcuate lines above referred to, pieces are cut for incorporation into the breast pockets of brassires. The lower portion of each breastsupporting pocket embodies material cut from said stitched fabric and so disposed that the aforementioned quadrilateral figures defined by the intersecting stitch lines diminish in area toward the bottom edge of said pocket. Thereby, as said bottom edge is approached, the supporting effect of the stitching progressively in-.

creases, giving greater support where such is needed; while in regions of the pocket more distant from said bottom edge an increasingly yieldable control is obtained through the progressively greater distances between stitches. The aforementioned quadrilaterals may also be employed in the center or any other region of the brassiere to obtain desired supporting effects.

In consequence of the stitching above referred to, fabric substantially lighter than those heretofore used in brassires may be employed. Support equal at least to that provided by heavier or multi-ply fabrics is attained by my invention with lighter fabrics and with much greater comfort.

I am aware that prior attempts have been made to solve the problem of adequate bust support in the various positions of the wearer without sacrifice of comfort. To that end various brassiere manufacturers have for years included a plurality of parallel or concentric rows of stitching under the bust, roughly following the contour of the bottom bust section. Another attempt involved making the bust pocket in four sections from material prestitched in parallel rows; each section containing parallel rows of stitching and the four sections being sewed together so that said lines provided substantially closed geometrical figures surrounding the central point of the pocket and increasing in size outwardly from said point. Such arrangements, with their parallel lines of stitching, have not attained the results desired and are prone to impose an undesirable restriction upon the bust.

In another prior brassiere, stitching was ap-- plied after the bust pocket was formed. The

stitching followed the general line of a helical spiral, starting from the center of the pocket, and producing the same effect as rows of stitching running concentrically around the center point of the bust. Again, an undesirable pressure upon the bust was produced.

In still another prior brassire, lines of stitching are inserted after the bust-pocket sections are sewed together; said stitching lines extending from one side of the lower half of the pocket upwardly toward the upper half, then passing into said upper half and concentrically semicircling the apex of the pocket to form a series of concentric loops, then extending downwardly to the rear, and terminating in the lower half at the side opposite the side of origination. Here, again, as with other prior arrangements wherein the stitch rows are parallel or substantially concentric with the center of the bust pocket, the garment has been found to exert a flattening or constricting action upon the breast, or does not support it in all directions in different attitudes of the wearer, giving what wearers describe as a shallow effect.

v Brassieres embodying my invention avoid the foregoing disadvantages encountered in prior brassires, and, not only attain support of the breast where support is needed but also provide a soft fitting quality greatly enhancing the wearers comfort.

Other features and advantages of the invention will be hereinafter described and claimed.

In the accompanying drawings:

Fig. l is a front elevational view of a brassiere embodying one form of my invention.

or over-lapping arcuate stitch lines ll. stitch line represents the path of travel of a point along an arc, the center of curvature of Fig. 2 is a side-elevational view of the brassiere shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a front elevational view showing another form of my invention.

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a fabric containing stitch lines for inclusion in brassires in accordance with the invention.

Fig. '5 is a plan view of a fabric containing an alternative stitch pattern for inclusion in such brassieres.

Fig. 6 is a plan view of another form of brassiere embodying my invention; one breastreceiving portion of the brassiere being shown open, in the form initially cut, and the other breast-receiving portion being shown with certain of its edges stitched together to form a three-dimensional breast-pocket.

Referring to the drawings, there is shown at H) in Fig. 4, a fabric of any material suitable for inclusion in bust-receiving pockets of brassie'res. In this fabric I produce a series Each which moves in a given direction during the travel of said point along said are.

It is well known that a curve traced by a point on the radius of a circle rolling on a line in a given plane is a cycloid. If the same circle were held at its center and revolved around the center, that same point would trace a circle. There is an infinity of positions,

producing an infinity of patterns between the two extremes, ranging from the true circle to a cycloid. In the production of brassieres embodying my invention, the extent of the arc of travel of the needle in producing a curved stitch line, and the extent of displacement of *the center of said are in any direction during travel of the needle through any particular length of arc, may be varied as desired.

As an example, advantageous and pleasing effects are obtained by having the needle move in a circle, the center of which circle moves forward approximately diameter in each complete revolution. A succession of such figures, vessh'own in Fig. 4, includes successive arcuate lines (such as indicated at [2 and I3) convergi'ing toward each other from their centers to their upper and lower ends, and intersecting other'converging arcuate lines (such as l i2il) to produce curvilinear quadrilateral figures H of areas diminishing from the central region {of said arcuate lines to the outer extremities thereof. In their central regions, in the example illustrated in Fig. 4, the arcuate stitch lines intersect to form loops 22.

While, of course, the needle may be operated by hand to produce the arcuate intersecting stitch lines illustrated in Fig. 4, it will be obvious that the needle of a conventional sewing machine may be made to trace such paths, and that the size of arc and displacement of center of curvature during travel of the needle along any arcuate distance may be varied.

After the stitching is completed in the fabric l0, pieces are out out therefrom for the lower portions of the bust-supporting pockets of a brassiere. For example, in Figs. 1 and 2, fabric pieces 24, 25, forming the lower portions of the respective bust-receiving pockets 26, 2?, respectively, are cut from fabric having the stitching illustrated in Fig. 4. It will be noted that each of these fabric pieces comprises arcuate lines converging toward the bottom of the pocket and 4 intersecting other converging arcuate lines to form curvilinear quadrilateral figures 2| of area-s diminishing toward said pocket bottom. The fabric pieces may also be so cut as to include in their top portions parts of the loops 22 in the central region of the fabric Hi.

It will thus be seen that due to the aforementioned quadrilateral figures Zl of progressively diminishing area, the supporting effect of each bust--receiving pocket 26, 2'1, increases progressively as the bottom of the pocket is approached, giving greater support where such is needed. On the other hand, in regions more remote from said bottom an increasingly yieldable control is obtained as the result of the progressively greater distance between stitches.

In addition, due to the fact that all of the stitch lines are curved, and eccentric with respect to the center orapex of the bust pocket, they are not subject to linear strain to the same extent as straight or concentric stitches, in which tightness and cracking result.

While heavier fabrics in bust pockets give increased support, considerably heavier fabric would be required to provide the same support as a light fabric provided wltl'i my stitching, and at a marked sacrifice in comfort. Any desired light weight material may be employed in the fabric i0. 7

In an actual test, a light weight satin was employed in the lower portions of the pockets of a brassiere, without my stitching above'described, while the same fabric with said stitching was employed in the lower portions of another brassiere. The brassiere without the stitching formed folds, causing the breast of the wearer to droop and form a hollow in the upper section of the brassiere. However, in the case of the brassiere with the stitching, with all other items equal (same material, same size, same wearer) these folds did not appear. The stitching not only provided adequately for the support of the bust in all positions of the wearer, but furthermore conformed to the natural shape of the breast with resultant attractive appearance, even when the body was relaxed.

It will further be observed that in producing the stitching in the fabric iii the stitching may be readily and accurately controlled in the de sired diameter and pitch, and the pocket portions may be readily cut from any desired parts of the stitched fabric. This is distinctly advantageous over stitching after the bust pocket has been formed, wherein the paths of the stitching rows are left to the skills of different operators, and thus vary from one garment to another, or even within different pockets of the same garment.

The upper portions 28, 23, of the pockets 26, 27, may be of any fabric desired, stitched or unstitched. Thus, in the embodiment shown in Figs. 1 and 2, said upper pocket portions are shown as of unstitched fabric. However, in Fig. 3, the upper portions 28, oi the bust-supporting pockets 25, 2'! are formed by fabric pieces cut from the fabric it) in its central region wherein the stitches include the loops 22 and are more Widely spaced than in the regions adjacent either end of the arcuate-stitch lines.

In the embodiment illustrated in Fig, 3 it will be noted that the stitch lines in the upper pocket portions 28', 29', are spaced farther apart in the region overlying the upper central portion of the breast, while at each side of said region the lines form curvilinear quadrilaterals of areas diminishing toward the sides of the pocket. Thus, firmer control is provided at the sides of the upper pocket portions, and more yielding control in the central regions of said portions. A desirable yielding control is thereby obtained over the upper portion of the breast. It will, of course, be understood that the controlling effects in diiferent portions of the pockets may be varied as desired, by cutting the pocket pieces from different portions of the fabric l6.

The lower portions 24, 25 of the pockets 25, 21, in Fig. 3 may, as shown, be formed in the same manner as those in Fig. 1, i. e., of fabric pieces cut from the fabric In in regions extending near or to the ends of the arcuate stitch lines, and including the curvilinear quadrilaterals 2| of areas diminishing progressively toward the bottoms of the Dockets.

In both embodiments illustrated, the brassiere is shown as including fabric side portions 30, 3|, of conventional form which are attached to the bust-receiving pockets and extend beneath the arms of the wearer, said side portions being joined together by any suitable fastening means in the customary manner, as will be readily understood. Another fabric member 32 is positioned between the said pockets and attached thereto, said member having portions 33, 34, which extend beneath the lower portions of the pockets and also attached to the side pieces 30, 3|. The aforementioned fabric members 30, 3|, and 32 may be of any desired material. The usual shoulder straps 35 may be provided.

It will be understood that the lines of stitching in the fabric ||l need not extend completely around displaceable centers of curvature as above described, and that instead a similar stitch pattern may be obtained by having the needle follow a series of displaced arcuate paths converging toward their extremities, as indicated at 36 in the fabric 31, in Fig. 5. It will be noted that one group of the series of said arcuate stitches curves in one direction, while another group, curved in the opposite direction, intersects the stitches of the first group. Thereby there are produced central loops 3% and curvilinear quadrilateral figures 39 of areas progressively diminishing from said central loops to the end extremities of said arcuate stitch lines.

In Fig. 6 there is shown a further modified form of brassiere embodying my invention. In this embodiment, fabric pieces 40, 4|, are cut out of the fabric it of Fig. 4 (or fabric 31 of Fig. 5). As initially cut out, each of the pieces 40 and 4| is in the form shown for the fabric piece 40 in Fig. 6. Each of said pieces is then brought together at the edges 42, 43, and said edges are stitched together (as shown at 44 in the piece 4|) to provide a breast-receiving pocket of desired three-dimensional shape. It will be noted that the pieces 4!] and 4| not only provide breastreceiving pockets but also include portions 45, 45, which extend laterally and vertically from the breast-receiving pockets and are stitched together along their edges, as at 41, to extend between the breasts f the wearer. At their outer edges, the pieces 40 and 4| may be stitched to fabric pieces 48, 45 adapted to form the usual sides of the brassiere. A strip 50 of longitudinally elastic material may be stitched at one side edge to an edge of the side piece 49, and at its opposite side edge 52 to the adjacent edge of the portion 46 of the piece 4|. Said strip 50 may also be stitched at its top edge 53 to the adjacent overlying horizontal edge 54 of the pocket-forming piece 4|. A similar elastic strip 55 may be similarly stitched to the pocket-forming piece 40 and side piece 48, as will be apparent. Said elastic strips 58 and 55 thus extend immediately below breast-receiving portions of the brassire. Shoulder straps 58 of conventional form may be attached to the upper portions of the pieces 48, 49.

It will be noted that the breast-receiving piece 40 contains arcuate lines which (in the section between the edge 42 and side piece 48) converge toward the edge 54, and which intersect other converging arcuate lines to form curvilinear quadrilateral figures 50 of areas diminishing toward said edge 54. The latter edge, as shown in connection with the piece 4|, forms the lower edge of the completed breast-receiving pocket. Thus, each pocket contains quadrilateral figures of areas diminishing toward a bottom edge of the pocket, increasing the supporting effect of the pocket as its bottom is approached. In the pocket shown as formed from the fabric piece M in Fig. 6, the curved'quadrilaterals of progressively diminishing area are present but, due to the three-dimensional efiect of the completed pocket they do not appear as prominently to the eye as in the flat piece 40. However, the piece 4i actually has the same arrangement of curvilinear quadrilaterals diminishing in area toward the lower edge 54 as above pointed out in connection with the piece 40. In their central regions, the pockets contain loops 6|, corresponding to the loops 22 in Fig. 4 (or 38 in Fig. 5). The curvilinear quadrilaterals of varying areas are also present in the portions 45, 46 of the fabric pieces 4|], 4|, extending between the breasts of the wearer. A desirable supporting effect is thereby produced in that region.

The term brassire as used in the foregoing specification and in the appended claims is to be understood as including the brassiere portions of combination garments, such as corselettes or combined girdles and brassieres.

The terms and expressions which I have employed are used as terms of description and not of limitation, and I have no intention, in the use of such terms and expressions, of excluding any equivalents of the features shown and described or portions thereof, but recognize that various modifications are possible within the scope of the invention claimed.

I claim:

1. A brassiere comprising a pair of breastreceiving pockets, each of said pockets being provided in its lower portion with arcuate lines of stitching, a plurality of said arcuate lines curving toward the right in said lower portion toward the bottom thereof and converging toward said bottom, and another plurality of said arcuate lines curving toward the left in said lower portion toward the bottom thereof and converging toward said bottom, the last mentioned plurality of arcuate lines intersecting the first mentioned plurality of arcuate lines to form therewith curved quadrilateral figures of areas diminishing toward the bottom of said pocket.

2. A brassiere comprising a pair of breastreceiving pockets, each of said pockets being provided in its lower portion with pre-formed arcuate lines of stitching, a plurality of said lines curving toward the right in said lower portion and converging toward the bottom thereof and another plurality of said lines curving toward the left in said lower portion and converging toward the bottom thereof, the last mentioned plurality of lines intersecting the first mentioned plurality to form therewith curved quadrilateral figures of areas diminishing toward the bottom of said pocket.

3. The method of producing a bust-pocket of a brassire, comprising stitching a fabric to form therein arcuate stitch lines while displacing the centers of said arcuate stitch lines longitudinally to cause said lines to converge toward each other from their central regions toward their outer extremities and to intersect to define curvilinear quadrilateral figures of areas diminishing progressively from said central region toward said outer extremities of said arcuate lines, cutting a piece of fabric from a portion of said stitching, and including said piece in the lower portion of said bust-pocket.

4. A brassiere. as defined in claim 1, wherein each of said pockets has other arcuate intersecting lines of stitching in its upper portion defining curved loops in the central region and curvilinear quadrilateral figures in the side regions of said upper portion.

5. A brassire as defined in claim 1, wherein the upper portion of each of said pockets is free of stitching lines.

6. A brassire' as defined in claim 1, said 8 brassiere also having portions extending into zones at the sides of said pockets, each of which side portions is provided with intersecting arcu ate lines of stitching defining curvilinear quadrilateral figures of varying areas.

STANLEY H. PHILLIPS.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 190,032 Harriman Apr. 24, 1877 198,348 Chapman Dec. 18, 1877 1,997,995 Bowen Apr. 16, 1935 2,147,375 Lazzari Feb. 14,- 1939 2,152,910 Childs Apr. 4, 1939 2,411,462 Plehn Nov. 19, 1942 2,469,654 Kriz May 10, 1949 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 403,418 Great Britain Dec. 13, 1933 807,356 France Oct. 12,1936

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