US2390003A - Full-fashioned stocking and method of producing the same - Google Patents

Description

P. SCHMIDT Nov. 27, 1945.

FULL-FASHIONED STOCKING AND METHOD OF PRODUDCING THE SAME Filed July 12, 1944' 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 mvEN'roR;

Nov. 27, 1945, p, b 2,390,003

FULL-FASHIONED-STOCKING AND METHOD OF PRODUDCING THE SAME Filed July 12, 1944' 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Firs--5; F15 1- Huvgmon' f faul/ Sclvmv'dih Nov. 27, 1945 P. SCHMIDT 2,390,003

FULL-FASHIONED STOCKING AND METHOD OF PRODUDCING THE SAME Filed July 12, 1944 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTOR Paul/6x4 130613 NOV. 27, 1945. p s 2,390,003

FULL-FASHIONED STOCKING AND METHOD OF PRODUDCING THE SAME Filed July 12, 1944 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 'FIE- -lEl- INVENTOR Pail/L m idfi Patented Nov. 27, 1945 FULL-FASHIONED STOCKING AND METHOD 1 OF PRODUCING THE SAME rm Schmidt, Wytheville, Va.

Application July 12, 1944, Serial No. 544,478

23 Claims.

The present invention relates to flat knit single unit stockings and more particularly to heel constructions for full-fashioned single unit stockings.

For a long time past, the major portion of dull-fashioned stockings have been made by the two unit method; that is the welts, legs and heel tabs have been knit on a legger machine, the heel tabs have been spread and the loops along their inside edges together with the loops of the instep coursehave been placed on points on a topping machine from which they have pressed onto the points of a transfer bar and then transferred to the needles of a footer" machine for completing the stocking. -Also, the two unit method requires a looping operation to connect the ends of the heel tabs, a step involving expense.

The idea of making full-fashioned stockings by the single'unit method; that is on one machine is quite old and many heel forms have been proposed for single unit stockings but none fully answer the commercial conditions, and it is comparatively recently that the single unit method has made appreciable headway in the trade.

This has been primarily because the purchasers of full-fashioned hosiery have been a discriminating group, placing quality before price, and the two unit stocking has been generally of better quality, due to the better fit of the heel and instep region. However, the savings which can 'be made by eliminating one group of machines are seeminglyso large that interest in a solution of the problem of a satisfactory single unit heel has never died out and more lately this interest has been accentuated by the fact that the trend in the full-fashioned hosiery trade has been ever toward higher gage stockings and in the higher gages it hasbecome more difllcult to avoid a noticeable line in the instep of a two unit stocking caused either by the topping and transfer operations or by differences in the yarns on the legger and the footer or by both. As a result of these conditions many forms of single unit full-fashioned stockings have been proposed, most of which involve transferring loops in a direction to widen or to narrow the fabric or involve both operations.

However, very few forms of single unit stockings promise to retain a position in the trade, the reason for this being that the factors militating against the single unit stocking are various, although in most part related to the question of fit; It has been found that if a single unit stocking lies smoothly over the heel, it may wrinkle over the instep or along the front of the ankle. Also, if the heel zone contains sufficient fabric to avoid constriction, it may tend to slide under the heel in use either laterally 01: lon tudinally, thereby causing discomfort and undue stress on the fabric resulting in a high rate of wear or a broken thread. When there are no wrinkles and there is no tendency to slide, the tension at certain points may be so great as to cause thread breakage with consequent runs. Further, certain so-cal-led single unit heel constructions which answer the requirements as to fit suffer under the draw-back that they require special heeler machines or expensive attachments on the legger machine to permit them to be made. Also, certain single unit heel constructions which fit properly, nevertheless require looping or are made by means and/or methods which themselves cause" instep lines.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a novel single unit stocking having a proper fit in the instep and ankle as well as in the heel.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a novel heel construction for a single unit stocking which, in addition to a proper flt, will not require an expensive alteration in the standard legger for its production.

Still another object of the present invention is to provide a novel satisfactory heel construction for a single unit stocking which will not require looping.

A further object of the present invention is to provide a novel heel construction which is satisfactory and which may be made on a standard full-fashioned legger with only a minor modification.

A still further object of the present invention is to provide a method whereby the standard fullfashioned legger may be operated to produce the said novel stocking and heel construction with only'a small addition to the machine.

A form of single unit stocking which is structurallysimple and which can be made in a minimum of time is one in which no loops are transferred except in the narrowing direction. Further, it has been found that flat knitted fabric withstands narrowing loop transfers of a siren coursewise distance better than widening trans fers.

It is, consequently, a particular object of the present invention to provide a novel heel structure for single unit stockings providing an improved fit in the heels and having transferred loops only in the narrowed portions.

It is a further object of this invention to fashion or shape the under-heel portion of a singleunit stocking by rapidly narrowing from the area of the selvedge progressively inwardly and to blend such narrowed portion with a further narrowing provided in the lowermost part of the heel or that portion of the stocking joining the heel and sole.

Still further, the invention contemplates, in connection with the novel construction of heel shape, the reduction of the selvedge edges adjacent the acute line of under-heel narrowings at a lesser rate than that of such narrowings, thus affording to the improved stocking the proper shape to the under-heel portion while maintaining suflicient material coursewise to offset undue tightness in the instep portion.

With these and other objects in view, which will become apparent from the following detailed description of the illustrative embodiment of the invention shown in the accompanying drawings, my invention resides in the novel features of construction, arrangements and method as hereinafter more particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is an elevation taken from the rear and somewhat diagrammatic of a full-fashioned single unit stocking within the invention as it appears in use;

Fig. 2 is an elevation, diagrammatic in character, of a fabric blank from which the stocking of Fig. 1 may be made by seaming the edges together;

Fig. 3 is an elevation taken from the rear and somewhat diagrammatic of another form of single unit stocking within the invention as it appears in use;

Fig. 4 is an elevation of fabric blank from which the stocking of Fig. 3 may be made by seaming the edges together;

Fig. 5 is a fragmentar detail view on an enlarged scale of a portion of the blank shown in Fig. 2;

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary detail view in bottom plan of the rear half of the foot of the stocking shown in Fig; 1;

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary detail view on an en- ;airgid scale of a portion of'the blank shown in Fig. 8 is a fragmentary detail view in bottom plan of the rear half of the foot of the stocking shown in Fig. 3;

Fig. 9 is a diagrammatic view showing the steps involved in the novel method of narrowing used in making certain portions of the stockings and blanks shown in Figs. 1 and 2 inclusive; and

Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic view, much enlarged as compared to Fig. 5, showing the pattern of the selvages of the lower heel portions of the blank of Fig. 2 as they appear on the needles immediately after being knitted.

A stocking within the present invention involves essentially a heel region constructed in a particular way in that a group or series of several courses is narrowed by transferring inwardl a larger number of loops in a given narrowed course than in the next preceding narrowed course. The entire narrowing of the heel zone need not be, however, of the said essential character. Coincidental with the special narrowed construction, a heel zone within the invention comprises a widened portion preceding the narrowed portion and preferably includes a portion having selvages parallel to the direction of knitting. The heel zone is also preferably reinforced and the line of division between the reinforced and the unreinforced portion of the stocking runs downwardly and inwardly from the high heel at an acute angle to the line of knitting or draw-off until a width of reinforcement is obtained suitable for the sole portion of the stocking, the lower end of the inclined line of division being near the level of the lower end of the portion of the .heel having parallel or walewise selvages. The features of widening, reinforcing, inclined lines between the reinforced and unreinforced sections and a walewise sided portion in the heel are all old in themselves and can be varied within considerable limits while retaining the aforesaid essential or characteristic narrowing feature.

Due to the said features and more particularly to the said novel characteristic narrowing feature a stocking within the invention is capable not only of being made rapidly but it eliminates the need of looping and at the same time it provides in single-unit stockings a well fitting heel pocket of ample size. The elimination of looping not only saves expense but it improves the stocking by eliminating the hanging yarn piece or, the lumpy spot at the termination of the looping line, one of which has always been present in stockings having looped seam portions. Further, a heel section within the invention not only fits well throughout the heel section proper but has an inherent tension which draws the fabric in the adjacent sole section so that it hugs the underside of the foot and helps to prevent the heel from sliding in use.

Referring more particularly to Figs. 1, 2, 5 and 6, the stocking I0 shown in Fig. l is knitted from welt to toe, is made by seaming the blank ll shown in Fig. 2 and includes the usual features found in full-fashioned hosier such as a rear seam ii, a turned welt l2, knee narrowings I3, l3, leg narrowings l4, l4 and reinforced zones l5, It on both sides the seam extending from the high heel sections l6, l6 through the heel sections I1,

, ll the sole sections l8, l8 and the toe section i9.

Further, the. toe narrowings 20, 20 may be as shown or of an ordinary form.

Said heel sections have widened portions 2 I, 2| each of which has selvage edges which incline outward from the center line of the blank or the direction of draw-off when going in the direction from welt to toe. Next adjoining the widened portions 2|, 2| in the forward direction from ankle to toe, the heel sections l1, l1 include portions 22, 22 having walewise or parallel selvages, that is selvages which lie parallel to each other a well as parallel to the center line of the blank and parallel to the direction of knitting or drawoff. Next adjoining the portions 22, 22 in the forward direction, the heel sections include the lower heel or narrowed portions represented generally at 23, 23.

The portions 23, 23 have selvages or edge lines which incline inwardly quite sharply compared to the knee and calf narrowings such narrowed selvedges being calculated to provide a shaped surface to the under-heel area of the improved stocking. It is to be understood that this construction of inclined selvedge is not by itself new in single-unit stockings but, as will appear hereinafter, when combined with the novel heelpocket fashioning affords the appropriate reduction in width of material from the widest part of the heel to the instep portion.

Each narrowed course of portions 23, 23 contains fashion marks such as 24, 24 formed by the inward transfer of a group of loops including the edge loop and several others extending inwardly therefrom, the one or two most inward loops of the group doubling up. as is customary on untransferred loops to form the fashion marks. As shown, there are fashion marks in each course of a series including the first dozen or so courses of the narrowedportions 23, 23 and each transferred group is stepped inward two needle spaces or twice the distance betweentwo adjacent needles, thereby obtaining the maximum rate of narrowing possible with the forms'of narrowing means now in use on full-fashioned knitting machines, and, in fact, the maximum rate of narrowing that seems possible, because the tension produced in the fabric by transferring two needles at a time appears'to be the limit which most stocking fabrics canstand. However, the invention is not limited to narrowing at the maximum rate in all cases, it being permissible at times to narrow in every second or third course. As shown, further, the fashion marks 24, 24

in the first course in each of the narrowed portions, that is the first narrowed course in portions 23, 23 are the closest to the selvage of any such mark in any course of the series of narrowed courses. In other words, the group of loops transferred inwardly in the first narrowed course of the series contains fewer loops than that in any succeeding course in the series of narrowed courses and the number of loops transferred is increased for each of a series of successive courses inwhich loops are transferred.

Thereby. lines of fashionpmarks or narrowing lines 23, 23 are formed begun by marks 24, 24

the first parts at least of which incline away from the selvages, the angles between said first parts of ,lines'26, 23 and the line of knitting or draw -oif being acute angles and forming acute angles also with .the selvages of parts 23, 23. Referring to Fig. 9, the groups of transferred loops in the first narrowed course as shown each include about nine loops; and in successivecourses the number or loops to be transferred is increased by one; such increase being obtained by an intermediate advancement of the points an additional needle between repeated successive narrowings, as will be presently described. The innermost of the points, however, moves inward three needle spaces at each narrowed course due to a movement of two needle spaces of the points in carrying out the transfer of loop plus the said additional one needle movement.

However, in'the form ofinvention shown in Figs. 1. 2, 5. 6 and 10, it is preferred that the lines of fashion marks in the narrowed heel zone shall not incline away from the selvage throughout their entire extent and the first part of the lines of such marks beginning with marks24, 24, lie at a greater angle to the selvage and an angle to the last part in such zone. As well shown in Fig. 2 at 25, 25, narrowing is omitted in several courses, thereby forming gaps between the first and second parts of the narrowing lines, at the points where the vertices of said angles would come, to avoid a concentration of stresses at these points.

The part of said narrowing lines on the toe sides of said gaps are parallel to the selvages. The difference in direction of parts of the narrowing lines of the marks from other parts does not necessarily affect the inclinations of the selvages, however, this depending only on the number of courses perv transfer and the narrowing per transfer. In the construction shown, the narrowings are not as close together forward of said angles or gaps 23, 23 as rearward thereof and there are slight angles in the selvages of portions 23, 23, although these angles are difiicult to follow in the completed blank H with the naked eye and they have not been indicated in Figs. 2 and 5. It is probable that the gaps in the narrowing lines smooth out these angles after the fabric has been removed from th needles so that there is a gradual change in direction in the selvages of portions 23, 23 instead of an abrupt one. In Fig. 10, however, there is shown the relation of the edge loops and fashion marks in portions 23, 23 at the time the courses of these portions are formed on the needles. In Fig. 10, the upper portion of heel sections are omitted but the central or parallel sided portions 22 and the lower or narrowed portions 23 are shown on a greatly enlarged scale compared even to. Figs. 5 and 6. In Fig. 10, the selvages of the narrowed portions 23, 23 are shown in the form of a series of rectangular steps while the fashion marks ar shown as before as dots, the first of which are 24, 24. The fashion marks, as will be apparent from Figs. 5, 9 and 10 really represent two loops but are shown by single dots wherever they are shown, except only in Fig. 9. The horizontal dimension, the tread, of each of said steps at the edges of narrowed portions 23 are to the selvages 23, 23 along the parts of characteristic of the invention is shown diagramomitted from the drawings.

two needle spaces wide while the vertical dimensions or "lifts of said steps represent one course, approximately one needle space. The lifts" of the steps in the selvages of portions 23 below, that is on the toe side of, gaps 25, 25 represent two courses, approximately two needle spaces. Therefore, as shown in Fig. 10, the selvages 23, 23 along the parts of portions 23, 23 having a fashion mark in each course lie at a distinctangle vI tions 23, 23 having fashion marks in only every other course.

The method of performing the narrowings matically in Fig. 9, which includes nine subg iigures each occupying one row of nine successive rows forming the complete figure and eacli'showing one step in making the fabric characteristic of the invention.

In the first row of Fig. 9, is shown a group of needles 30 at the righthand end of a needle row of a full-fashioned knitting machine 'on which are loops of the first course 3| of loops in the narrowed portion 23 of the heel, said course being the one which contains fashion mark 24.-

It will be understood also that the loops of the previously knit course interenga e with those of course 3| on the side of course 3| opposite the needles, this and other previous courses being In order to narrow course 3|, a narrowing comb is brought so that its points 32 overlap needles 30 to the desired extent, nine of points 32 being shown in position above and immediately in front of a group of nine needles counting inward from the needle holding the edge loop.

In the revolution after the one in which course 3| was knitted, no yarn is laid and no loops formed but the points 32 are brought down so as to engage with loops on the needles with which they are in alinement and so moved as to take the loops of! the needles as shown in the second row of Fig. 9. When the needles and points are in a suitable relative position, the points are then shifted inwardly, preferably twoneedle spaces, to the position shown in the third row of Fig. 9. The points are then lowered into contact'with the needles and the two carried downward together so that two of the needles have two loops each thereon, thereby forming fashion mark 24. At this time, the sinkers are brought forward and, as the needles and points rise, the loops are stripped down on the needles and the points are raised at a faster rate than the needles to separate the points from the needles and to leave the loops on the needles as shown in the fifth row of Fig. 9. Further, before the end of the revolution in which the narrowing occurs, e. g. in the interval between the fourth and fifth row, the comb is stepped inward one needle space so that the points occupy the positions shown in the fifth row of Fig. 9. Therefore, after another course 33, shown in the sixth row of Fig. 9, has been knitted and which it is desired to narrow, assumed here to be the second course in heel portion 23, the points 32 are in position to transfer loops standing initially on ten needles instead of nine as is the case of the first narrowed course 3 l.

The steps of dipping the points to engage loops on the needles is then repeated, the loops transferred inward two needles and deposited on the needles again in a new position all as shown in the seventh, eighth and ninth rows of Fig. 9. The deposit of the loops is then followed by stepping the comb inward one needle, as was done between the fourth and fifth rows of Fig. 9. The cycle of steps just described is then repeated as often as it is desired to continue increasing the number of loops transferred per narrowing operation. In the embodiment shown in Figs. 1, 2, 5, 6 and 10, the step of moving the comb inward after the loops have been deposited on the needles is discontinued after about twelve or fourteen courses, but throughout the period this step is included in the narrowing routine, the fashion marks form a line which is straight in the blank H and inclined forwardly and'inwardly, that is in the direction from heel to toe, from the initial mark 2d, 24. When the blank has been seamed and the resulting stocking put into use, the initially straight inclined groups of fashion marks becomes curved as shown in Fig. 6, the two groups of marks beginning with marks 24, 24 forming substantially a semi-circle in plan view when in use. After the inward stepping of the combs between narrowing operations has been discontinued the subsequent narrowings involve groups of loops all of the same number forming groups of fashion marks parallel to the selvages which follow the gaps 25, 25. The marks in the groups parallel to the selvages remain straight and parallel to the selvages after the selvages have been seamed up and the stocking put into use, this being also clear from Fig. 6.

Referring to Figs. 3, 4, 7 and 8, a second form of stocking 40 within the invention i shown therein which is closely like the stocking l0. As shown, stocking 40 is made by seaming a blank 4|, the only differences between the blanks 4| and II residing in the heel sections 41, 41 of blank 40, so that the features of construction of stocking 4n and blank M in the remaining sections thereof need not be referred to except where they may directly affect said heel sections. In the form shown in Figs. 3, 4, 7 and 8, the narrowed portions 53, 53 contain narrowing lines 54, 54 of fashion marks the first of which are even closer to the selvages than the fashion marks 24, 24 in the first narrowed course, of the previously described form. Further, there are no gaps or angles in the narrowing lines 54, 54 similar to those of lines 26, 26, narrowing lines e,soo,oos

54, 54 extending straight at a certain inclination to the direction of knitting and to the center line of the blank 4| from the salvages to the inner edges of the reinforced sections of blank 4| as most clearly shown in Fig. '7. The angles between lines 54, 54 and the line of knitting or draw-oi! are acute angles and are shown as bein substantially the same as the angles formed by the portions of lines 28 having marks 24, 24 therein. The narrowings, forming the fashion marks in lines 54, 54 may occur in every course and each involves an inward transfer of two needle spaces each of two groups of loops of the course, each succeeding narrowing, involving larger groups of loops than the preceding so that the fashion marks are farther and farther from the selvages in both of lines 54, 54.

However, whereas in the form of the invention shown in Figs. 1, 2, 5, 6, 9 and 10, a narrowing operation is performed first in every course for a number of courses and then in every other course for the remainder of the narrowed portion of the fabric, in the form of the invention shown in Figs. 3, 4, '7 and 8, a narrowing operation is performed only in every other course throughout the narrowed portion of the fabric. Nevertheless, the narrowing lines 54, 54 make the same acute angles with the direction of knitting as the first parts of lines 25, 26. This results from the fact that the point combs are moved inwardly one needle space per course between narrowings in making the line of fashion marks beginning with marks 24, 24 and ending with gaps 25, 25 while the point combs are moved inwardly two needle spaces between each two narrowings throughout the entire series of operations resulting in narrowing lines 54, 54. It will be noted also that the selvages in the narrowed portions 23, 23 of the first form of the invention have very approximately the same inclination as those in portions 53, 53 of the second form of the invention. Thus, in either form of the invention as illustrated, there is provided a heel construction in single-unit flat knit stockings which is found to be a marked improvement over previously known constructions. The new heel affords a shape naturally conforming to the configuration of the human heel and without sacrifice of other qualities in appearance or the fit of adjacent parts.

The positions in use in stocking 40 of the two lines 54, 54 or rows of fashion marks in sections 41, 41 after blank 4| has been seamed up to make the stocking are shown in Fig. 8. Owing to the absence of any angles and any gaps such as gaps 25, 25 in the rows of fashion marks in blank 4| and stocking 40 and to the absence of any material gap between the fashion marks of the first narrowed course in blank 4| and the selvages as well as the maintenance of a definite ratio of fashion marks to courses throughout, the lines of fashion marks 54, 54 present quite a different appearance in Fig. 8 from the appearance of such marks in Fig. 6, the lines 54, 54 first curving somewhat elliptically from the seam in the direction from heel to toe and then extending to the edges of the stocking in practically straight mes.

In both stockings l0 and 40, however, the fashion marks make curves beginning at or near the seam and curving forwardly for about half the distance between the first and last fashion marks on each side of the seam, the latter portions of the lines of fashion marks running approximately straight.

Also, in both the stocking l0 and the stocking 40, as shown, it is assumed that as many loops are added to the selvages of the widened portions of the heel sections as are subtracted from the selvages of the narrowed portions of the heel sections. However, this is not essential and depends uponthe dimensions assumed for the ankle and foot.

The method employed for making the narrowings in the stocking and blank shown in Figs. 3 and 4 is the same in essentials as that employed in making the stocking and blank of Figs. 1 and 2, the essential steps of the method being shown in Fig. 9. Said steps, includeas' before, picking up a group of loops it including an edge loop from the needles 30 bymeans-of points 32, then transferring the group inwardly two needle spaces and then depositing the loops of said group on the needles again in position such that the two innermost loops of thegroup are placed on the same needles with loops originally knitted thereon, thereby forming fashion marks, After the transferring operation has been completed but in the same revolution as theme in which the loops are transferred, the combs are stepped inward an additional space so that a larger group of loops are picked up and transferred inwardly by each group of points in each revolution of a series following the first revolution in which a narrowing operation occurs. The relative position of the most inward of points 32 after the first said additional stepping of the points is shown in one form of the invention in row five of Fig. 9, although, as previously mentioned, the

points may be steppedinwardly more than one needle in certain other forms, such as when it is desired to narrow in every other course while maintainingthe acute line of fashioning.

In particular, the invention includes beginning the narrowing lines in the heel sections of either of the forms of stocking shown, at points only a few loops from the selvage. Of course, the improvement specifically shown and described, by which I obtain the above results, can be changed and modified in various ways without departing from the invention herein disclosed and hereinafter claimed.

I claim:

1. A heel construction for a single unit stocking having a narrowing line beginning adjacent the selvage edge and extending inwardly and forwardly into the heel section.

2. A heel construction fora single unit stocking having a portion whose selvage is parallel to the line of draw-oil or direction of knitting and a narrowed portion forward of said first portion having a narrowing line whose beginning is nearer the first portion and nearer the selvage than its ending. 1

3. A heel construction for a single unit stocking' having a narrowing line'beginning adjacent the selvage edge and extending inwardly therefrom in the direction of knitting and then parallel to the selvage.

4. "A heel construction for a single unit stocking having a portion whose selvage is parallel to the line of draw-oil or direction of knitting followed by a narrowed portion whose selvage is having aportion whose selvage is parallel tothe line of draw-ofl followed by a narrowed portion whose selvage is sharply inclined to the direction of knitting and a narrowing line beginning adjacent the angle in tne selvage between said first and second portions and extending inwardly stocking, said portion having a selvage inclined gradually to the direction of knitting, a portion having a selvage parallel to the direction of knitting, a narrowed portion having its selvage sharply inclined to the direction of knitting, and a narrowing line beginning adjacent the June- ,tion at the selvage of said second and thirdponsharply inclined to the direction of knitting and rowed portion. n

5. A heel construction for a single unit stocking tions and extending inwardly at an acute, angleto the selvage-of said narrowed portion.

7. A blank for a full-fashioned single unit stocking comprising a heel construction having a widened portion approximately following the ankle in the direction rrom top to toe of the stocking, said portion having a selvage inclined gradually to the direction of knitting, a portion having a selvage parallel to the direction of knitting, a narrowed portion having its selvage sharply in clined to the direction of knitting, and a narrowing line beginning adjacent the junction at the selvage of said second and third portions and extending inwardly at an acute angle to said narrowed portion, said narrowing line having two parts lying at an angle to each other and the forward part of which extends parallel to the selvage of said third portion.

8. A blank for a full-fashioned single unit stocking having a reinforcedarea beginning in the high heel section and extendingthru the heel into the sole region, the heel having a widened portion, a portion whose selvage is substantially parallelto the direction of knitting, a narrowed portion whose selvage is sharply inclined, and a narrowing line beginning adjacent the Junction between said second and third portions and extending inwardly at an acute angle to the selvage of said third portion.

i 9. A blank for a full-fashioned single unit stocking having a reenforced area beginning in the high heel section and extending through the heel into the sole region, the heel having a widened portion, a portion whose selvage is substantially parallel to the direction of knitting, a narrow portion whose selvage is sharply inclined, and a narrowing line beginning adjacent the junction between said second and third portions and extending inwardly at an acute angle to the selvage of said third portion, said narrowing line having parts-which lie at an angle to each other.

10. A- blank for a full-fashioned stocking haw 11. A heel construction for a full-fashioned stocking having a widened portion and a mirowed portion, the narrowed courses of said narrowed portion including progressively a greater number of transferred loops when moving in the direction of knitting.

12. A heel construction for a full-fashioned stocking having a widened portion and a narrowed portion, a group of the narrowed courses of said narrowed portion including progressively a greater number of transferred loops when moving in the direction of knitting, and a group of the narrowed courses of said narrowed portion including a constant number of transferred loops.

13. A heel construction for a full-fashioned stocking having a widened portion and a narrowed portion including a series of successive courses having transferred groups of loops therein, each such group extending from the selvedge inwardly, and each succeeding course having a greater number of loops in its group than in the preceding. course.

14. The method of making a heel zone for a flat knit single unit stocking comprising transferring inwardly a group of loops including the edge loop in each of a series of successive courses while increasing the number of loops transferred from the first course to the last of the series.

15. The method of making a heel zone for a flat knit single unit stocking comprising transferring inwardly by two needle spaces a group of loops including the edge loop in each of a series of successive courses while increasing the number of loops transferred from the first course to the last course of the series.

16. The method of making a heel zone for a flat knit single unit stocking comprising transferring inwardly a group of loops including the edge loops in each of a series of successive courses while increasing the number of loops transferred from the first to the last course of the series, and then transferring inwardly a group of loops including the edge loop in each of a second series of successive courses while maintaining uniform the number of loops transferred.

1'7. The method of making a heel zone for a flat knit single unit stocking comprising transferring inwardly by two needle spaces a group of loops including the edge loops in each of a series of immediately successive courses while increasing the 45 number of loops transferred from the first to the last course of series.

18. The method of making a heel zone for a flat knit single unit stocking comprising transferring inwardly a group of loops including the edge loops in each of a series of successive courses while increasing the number of loops transferred from the first to the last course of series and transferring inwardly by two needle spaces a group of loops including the edge loop in each of a second series of successive courses while maintaining uniform the number of loops transferred.

19. A knitted blank for a full-fashioned stocking having a heel section having a widened portion and a narrowed portion, the narrowed courses of said narrowed portion including fashion marks all arranged in a line straight throughout its extent and inclined at a greater angle to the line of knitting than the angle of the selvage of said narrowed portion.

20. The method of knitting the heel area of a full-fashioned single-unit stocking blank comprising gradually increasing the width of the blank in the upper heel portion in line with the direction of knitting, and then narrowing the overall width of said blank in the lower heel portion from the wide point to the instep sole portion and simultaneously with the narrowing operation transferring a plurality of loops extending from the selvage inwardly so as to provide a fashioned area in the lower heel portion extending from the beginning of said narrowed portion progressively inwardly and at an angle away from the selvage of said narrowed portion.

21. A full-fashioned single unit stocking having fashion marks in the lower heel portions, the rearmost of said marks lying closest to the seam and said marks forming curves extending outwardly and forwardly for a distance from the seam and then extending generally forwardly in approximately straight lines.

22. A knitted blank for a full-fashioned stocking having a heel section including a widened portion and a narrowed portion, the narrowed courses of said narrowed portion including fashion marks arranged ln a straight line inclined inwardly from the selvage going in the direction of knitting.

23. A method of narrowing the heel portion of full-fashioned stockings by points including transferring inwardly by a group of points a group of loops including the edge loop, repeating the inward transfer by said group of points of a group of loops including the edge loop in a number of courses, and moving the points inwardly while free of loops between each two of said transferring movements of the points.

PAUL SCHMIDT.

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