US1739965A - Production of pattern effects upon textile goods - Google Patents

Production of pattern effects upon textile goods Download PDF

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Publication number
US1739965A
US1739965A US147850A US14785026A US1739965A US 1739965 A US1739965 A US 1739965A US 147850 A US147850 A US 147850A US 14785026 A US14785026 A US 14785026A US 1739965 A US1739965 A US 1739965A
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United States
Prior art keywords
goods
fabric
portions
fibres
swelling
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Expired - Lifetime
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US147850A
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Heberlein Georges
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Heberlein Patent Corp
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Heberlein Patent Corp
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Publication of US1739965A publication Critical patent/US1739965A/en
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/07—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof
    • D06M11/11—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof with halogen acids or salts thereof
    • D06M11/155—Halides of elements of Groups 2 or 12 of the Periodic Table
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/51—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
    • D06M11/55—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with sulfur trioxide; with sulfuric acid or thiosulfuric acid or their salts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/58—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides
    • D06M11/59—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides with ammonia; with complexes of organic amines with inorganic substances
    • D06M11/62—Complexes of metal oxides or complexes of metal salts with ammonia or with organic amines
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06Q—DECORATING TEXTILES
    • D06Q1/00—Decorating textiles
    • D06Q1/02—Producing patterns by locally destroying or modifying the fibres of a web by chemical actions, e.g. making translucent
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06Q—DECORATING TEXTILES
    • D06Q1/00—Decorating textiles
    • D06Q1/08—Decorating textiles by fixation of mechanical effects, e.g. calendering, embossing or Chintz effects, using chemical means

Definitions

  • the invention may be applied to all fabrics composed of natural vegetable fibres or of artificial fibres containing cellulose such as the artificial silks, or of mixtures of such natural or artificial fibres, or of mixtures of one or both of such fibres with animal fibres. Not only spun yarns but also any arrangement of fibres, and all forms of fabrics knitted, woven and embroidered goods or the like may have this process applied thereto.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Description

Patented Dec. 17, .1929
UNITED STATES GEORGES HEBERLEIN,OF WATTWIL,
SWITZERLAND, ASSIGNOR TO HEBERLEIN PAT- ENT CORPORATION, OF NEW YORK, NHYQ, A CORPORATION OF .NEW YORK PRODUCTION OF PATTERN EFFECTS UPON TEXTILE GOODS No Drawing. Application filed November 11,1926, Serial No. 147,850, and in Germany March 27, 1926.
This invention relates to the production of pattern effects upon textile goods, and more particularly to a process for the production of pattern effects upon goods made of or containing vegetable fibres, by the action of swelling agents upon the goods, Without the necessity of applying such agents by printing With same upon only localized portions of the goods to produce the pattern effects, or of printing upon only localized portions of the goods with a suitable resist composition .before subjecting the goods to the swelling agent.
The objects of the invention are to obtain durable pattern effects in connection with the use of swelling agents in a quick and gnore economical manner, and to obtain improved color or tone variations in such pattern effects.
The invention consists in the novel features of the method which are herein described according to the preferred manner of carrying out same, and the invention will be more particularly pointed out in the appended claims.
It is known that cottonand other vegetable fabrics may be modified by means of the action of strong alkalis, certain mineral acids and other swelling agents which chemically structurally change one or more natural characteristics of such fabrics, and that advantage may be taken of this modification of such fabrics by swelling agents to produce pattern effects upon the fabrics by localizing the action of the swelling agents on such fabrics to various portions thereof. Many such swelling agents and different processes for producing durablepattern effects uponfabrics by localizing the actior of such swelling agents upon the fabrics, are now well known. For example. the following United States Letters Patent disclose various swelling agents and processes that may be used for producing pattern effects:
Patents #0 Georges Heberleia Patent No. 1.141.872 granted June 1, 1915;
Patent No. 1.144.635. granted June 29. 1915;
Patent No. 1.201.901. granted Oct. 17. 1910; Patent No. 1,288,884, granted Dec.
Patents to Eduard H eberlein Patent No. 1,265,082, granted May 7, 1918; Patent No. 1,439,517, granted Dec. 19, 1922; Patent No. 1,439,5l9, granted Dec. 19, 1922.
According to these processes as heretofore practiced one may apply the swelling agent to the fabric by printing it directly upoirthc fabric according to the pattern to be produced, or else one may proceed in a more practical way by printing a resist upon the fabric, and subsequentlysubjecting the fabric to the swelling agents which will attack the portions not covered by the resist printing.
According to the present invention the resist printing may be replaced by the sim' pler means of localized pressing of the fabric according to the pattern to be produced, by substantial pressure at elevated temperatures (i. 0., of at least- 100 C. of the pressure surface) upon such portions of the fabric as are not to be modified or fully modified by the swelling agent, the fabric being subjected to a swelling agent after the localized pres sure has been applied. It has been found that such portions of the fabric as have been subjected to this pressure at high temperature are either not affected at all by the subsequently applied swelling agent or are not affected to the extent that the unpressed portions are affected: so that by the simple method of first imprinting the pattern upon the fabric under substantial pressure at high temperature and then subjecting the fabric to the swelling agent, durable or permanent finish pattern effects are produced.
For example, if a cotton fabric is caused to run under pressure through a goffering calender exerting a pressure of approximately 700 pounds per square inch the imprint cylinder of which is heated to 140 (1., there occu -1s at the pressed spots. in consequence of the (fittt of the pressure and the heat, such a change in the state of the fabric that the swelling agent or agents which are subsequently applied either do not act on such pressed portions at all, or act only to a much slighter extent than upon the enlarged or unpressed portions of the fabric, according to the duration of the action of such swelling agents upon the fabric. Thus for example one may emboss the desired pattern upon the fabric by the heated roller and then subject the fabric to any well known swelling agent for vegetable fibres, such for example as sulphuric acid,.phosphoric acid,
nitric acid, caustic alkali and other 1 well known swelling agents, which are allowed to act upon the fabric to produce the desired table fibre fabrics according to this invention will be the same as their effect upon fabrics according to known processes for producing all over or pattern effects according to other prior inventions including those disclosed in the patents above mentioned. This invention contemplates the use of any and all suitable swelling agents in connection with the embossing at elevated temperature, depending upon the particular pattern efiect desired. 7
The fabric may be subjected to the swelling agents by immersion or otherwise. After the modification of the fabric has taken place in consequence of the pressing and immersion, the relief-like pressing is wholly or partially caused to disappear by a subsequent washing process, whereas the patterned effect that has resulted from the difference in the structural changes that have taken place in the un pressed portions of the fabric, as contrasted with the pressed portions, remains to define the pattern effect. The pressing itself may be effected in the customary manner by means which operate on the principle of roller printing or of the fiat engraved plate.
The material that is to be treated according to this process may be subjected to the pressure either dry or moistened, in the raw, previously bleached, or otherwise previously treated state. After the production of the patterned effect all of the customary subsequent or improvement processes, such as bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc., may be applied to the fabric. By dyeing the goods be- I fore the pressed condition of the embossed portions of the fabric has been eliminated, there are produced, in consequence of the pareffects of such general 'tially changed condition of the fibres that have been altered at such portions or spots, the well known tone-in-tone effect, i. e., patterns which are formed in different tones of the same color merely by brighter and darker color.
The invention may be applied to all fabrics composed of natural vegetable fibres or of artificial fibres containing cellulose such as the artificial silks, or of mixtures of such natural or artificial fibres, or of mixtures of one or both of such fibres with animal fibres. Not only spun yarns but also any arrangement of fibres, and all forms of fabrics knitted, woven and embroidered goods or the like may have this process applied thereto.
It will be understood thatwhen there are present in a fabric, fibres that are not normally susceptible to the swelling agent or agents used, these will not have their characteristic altered in the portions subjected to pressure, from the characteristic of such fibres in the unpressed portions, in the same manner as the vegetable fibres in such pressed portions will have their characteristic altered with respect to such vegetable fibres in the u'npressed portions, and this fact will add to the variety of effects that may be produced in such mixed fabrics by the application of this invention.
According to this invention, printing by pressure at elevated temperature and the subsequent treatment of the goods by a swelling agent may be applied to goods which have already been subjected to the action of one or more swelling agents. For example, one may mercerize fabric or treat it with one or more swelling agents to produce a wool, organdie or other effect in known manner, and thereafter apply the printing of the pattern under pressure at elevated temperature to eliminate or modify the action of a subsequently applied swelling agent or agents upon such pressed portions. It is now well known that after a fabric has been treated with one or more swelling agents to produce a certain desired effect, such fabric may be additionally treated with one or more swelling agents to enhance, modify or alter the previously attained finish, and according to this invention the embossing with heat may be'applied between any two treatments of the fabric with swelling agents, in which case the pressed or embossed portions will retain more or less of the effect produced at such portions prior to the embossing, whereas the unpressed portions will acquire the effect or finish naturally expected as a result of the subsequent swelling treatment or treatments to which the fabric is subjected. According to this latter phase of the invention, after the treatment of the fabric with the first swelling agent or set of swelling agents, and
the washing out of the same from the fabric, the fabric is, before or after drying, subjected a after subjecting the to the hot pressure, and thereafter further treated with one or more swelling agents as above set forth. It will be understood that, as is known in the art, the treatment of the fabric with the swelling agent either before or after the hot pressing, may be accomplished with or without stretching of the fabric.
W hile I have described my invention in connection with the preferred manner ofpracticing the same, and-have cited certain particular patents in the prior art describing certain particular swelling agents and methods of utilizing same to produce permanent finishes upon fabrics, it will be understood by those skilled in the art, after undera standing my invention, that these are given merely by way of illustration, and that there may be various changes, modifications and substitutions made without departing from the spirit and scope of my invention, and I aim in the appended claims to cover all such changes and modifications as come within the spirit of my invention.
. Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:
1. Process for the production of durable pattern effects upon goods comprising vegetable fibres, which comprises altering the susceptibility of such fibres to swelling agents at certain portions of the goods by subjecting such portions to substantial pressure at a temperature of at least 100 C. and there goods to a swelling agent for vegetable fibres.
2. Process for the production of durable pattern etl'ects upon goods comprising Vegetable fibres, which comprises altering the susceptibility of such fibres to swelling agents at certain portions of the goods by subjecting such portions to substantial pressure at a temperature of at least 100 (3., subjecting the goods to a swelling agent for vegetable fibres, and then washing the goods to eliminate at least in part the compressed portions due to the pressure.
3. Process for the production of durable pattern effects upon goods comprising vegetable fibres, which comprises altering the suseeptibility of such fibres to swelling agents at certain portions of the goods by subjecting such portions to substantial pressure at a temperature of at least 100 C., subjecting the goods to'a swelling agent for vegetable fibres, and thereafter dyeingthe goods.
4. Process for the production of durable pattern effects upon goods comprising vegetable fibres, which comprises. altering the susceptibility of such fibres to swelling agents at certain portions of the goods by subjecting such portions to substantial pressure at a temperature of at least 100 C., subjecting the goods to a swelling agent for vegetable fibres,
washing the goods to eliminate atileast in.
part the compressed portions due to the pressure, andthen dyeing the goods. 4
5. Process for the production of durable pattern effects upon goods comprising vegetable fibres, which comprises subjecting the goods to a swelling agent for vegetable fibres and after such fibres have been acted upon by the swelling agent altering the susceptibility of such fibres to a subsequent treatment with a swelling agent at certain portions of the goods, by subjecting such portions to substantial pressure at a temperature of at least 100 C. and thereafter subjecting the goods to said subsequent treatment with a swelling agent for vegetable fibres.
6. Process for the production of durable pattern elfects upon goods comprising vegetable fibres, which comprises subjecting the goods to a swelling agent for vegetable fibres and after the swelling of the goods and the washingout of the swelling agent, altering the susceptibility of such fibres to a subsequent treatment with a swelling agent at certain portions of the goods, by subjecting such portions to substantial pressure at a temperature of at least 100 C. and thereafter subjecting the goods to said subsequent treatment with a swelling agent for vegetable fibres.
In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.
GEORGES HEBERLEIN
US147850A 1926-03-27 1926-11-11 Production of pattern effects upon textile goods Expired - Lifetime US1739965A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE268389X 1926-03-27
DE268781X 1926-03-30
DE271859X 1926-05-25

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US147851A Expired - Lifetime US1739966A (en) 1926-03-27 1926-11-11 Production of pattern effects upon textile goods

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FR (1) FR631318A (en)
GB (3) GB268389A (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE750704C (en) * 1938-04-26 1945-01-24 Zschimmer & Schwarz Chem Fab D Process for the production of embossed patterns on fabrics made from cellulose fibers
DE936087C (en) * 1944-06-02 1955-12-07 Cilander Ag Process for the finishing of fabrics
EP0735180A3 (en) * 1995-03-25 1997-07-16 Pfersee Chem Fab Method for treating fabrics containing cellulose

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GB271859A (en) 1927-09-08
FR631318A (en) 1927-12-19
GB268781A (en) 1927-08-04
GB268389A (en) 1928-02-23
BE342822A (en)
US1739966A (en) 1929-12-17

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