RU2493814C1 - Composition for hair dyeing - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to cosmetic industry, namely to composition for hair dyeing. Claimed compositions contain polyol, glycerol monostearate, emulsifiers, organic solvents, dyeing components, reducing agents, conditioning additives, preservatives, complexone, perfumery composition, oxidiser, water, and as alkaline agent - buffer, consisting of aminomethylpropanole in mixture with ammonium sulphate, which supports constant composition alkalinity pH=10-10.5.

EFFECT: claimed composition ensures deep dyeing of hair, preserved for long period of time, without hair damage and irritating impact on head skin.

5 cl, 3 dwg, 3 ex

Description

The invention relates to the cosmetic industry, in particular to the production of hair dye compositions, which are thick, creamy oil-water emulsions containing coloring components (oxidative dyes and direct-acting dyes).

The invention relates to ammonia-free compositions that do not destroy the structure of the hair, but at the same time provide deep, long-term coloring of hair of any type, including gray hair.

Compositions for hair coloring are liquid and creamy. The former are used mainly for tinting hair coloring, because little coloring composition is retained on the hair, and it is impossible to provide saturated colors [US 7198651, A61K 7/13; US 7241318, A61K 7/13]. Creamy formulations are more comfortable to use. Thickening is carried out by adding granular cellulose [US 7204856, A61K 7/13]; cationic cellulose derivative - polyquaternium-10 in a mixture with a copolymer of acrylamide / ammonium acrylate and polyacrylate-13 [US 1813264, A61K 8/81]; anionic type associative thickening polymer obtained from acrylic acid, alkyl acrylate and copolymerizable polyethylene monomer; a cationic type thickening polymer derived from an alkyl radical modified hydroxyethyl cellulose; and a nonionic polyurethane polymer. [US 7300470, A61K 7/13. Thickening emulsions are widely used, for example, compositions containing high molecular weight alcohols C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , glycerol monostearate, potassium salts of fatty acids [US 7204859, A61K 7/13; EP 1813263, A61K 8/81]. However, when using creamy compositions, the opening of the hair cuticle and keratin swelling are slower, leading to an increase in the size of submicroscopic pores in keratin and allowing water and aqueous solutions of dyes to penetrate into it, therefore, alkaline agents are additionally introduced into the composition. The latter catalyze the saponification of the fat layer covering the hair, thereby opening water to the surface of keratin, and contribute to its swelling. The diameter of the polymer macromolecule increases by 18–20%, and dye molecules whose size does not exceed 6 Å can already diffuse into the fiber.

As dyes for deep and long-lasting (persistent) hair coloring, in most of the patents described, it is proposed to use oxidative dyes. This is determined by the following requirements for hair dyes: 1) dyeing should take place in a short period of time at room temperature and should not cause damage to the hair shaft or scalp; 2) dyes should give the hair a natural color and minimally paint over the scalp; 3) a short dyeing time requires the use of compositions with a high concentration of dye; 4) the dye diffusion into human hair is much slower than in keratin wool, therefore dyes of small sizes with a small molecular weight are required. Only oxidation dyes meet these requirements. [Yoko K., Ioshikatsu Jo. The proposed mechanism of hair coloring // Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2009. V. 31, No. 3. P.273],

Although they are called dyes, in fact they are intermediates for their synthesis, which takes place inside the hair, resulting in a water-insoluble pigment, which provides high coloring strength. By analogy with the photographic process, these compounds are called developers. These include aromatic o- and p-diamines of the benzene and naphthalene series, o- and p-aminophenols and their derivatives, similar derivatives of the series of pyridine, pyrimidine and other heterocycles.

During the oxidation of these compounds, for example, hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, perborates, dichromate and potassium or sodium chlorate, they turn into quinoneimines, then to indamines or indanilines.

Further oxidation leads to phenazine structures containing several hetero rings:

Since as a result of these reactions a mixture of many products is formed, the hair dyes in soft, blurry tones that completely imitate the natural colors - light brown, brown, brown.

Developers or color substrates are typically used in a mixture with so-called color components. These are m-diamines, m-aminophenols, phenols, naphthols, pyrazolones, β-diketones and their derivatives. These compounds alone do not give a color, but reacting with the developer, they expand the color gamut of coloring compositions, for example, p-phenylenediamine with m-toluylene diamine forms a red phenazine dye, and with 2,4-diaminoanisole, a violet-blue indamine:

Direct-acting dyes - nitro, acid, basic (cationic), active, dispersed are added to the dye composition to give the necessary shade, but they are retained mainly on the surface of the hair due to the formation of hydrogen bonds, the forces of Van der Waals and London without penetrating deep inside due to the large size of the molecules and low diffusion rate, as a result of which they quickly wash off.

To loosen the hair structure as an alkaline agent, ammonia has been and continues to be used for many decades [FR 2856292, A61K 7/13; UA 70370, A61K 7/13]. This gives the most durable and effective hair coloring, especially problematic, but at the same time the hair becomes thinner, brittle, and split over time. Therefore, in recent years there has been a trend towards the production of compositions with a reduced content of ammonia or ammonia-free coloring compounds, of the same quality of coloring.

Known hair dye containing oxidation dyes and an oxidizing agent in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium at a basic pH in which the alkaline agent is a mixture of sodium metasilicate and a small amount of ammonia, the content of which does not exceed 1.6%. The authors argue that in such a product the irritating smell of ammonia is not so pronounced and the risk of an allergic reaction on the scalp is reduced, however, an acceptable level of hair coloring intensity is maintained. In addition to the listed components, the hair dye may contain various additives traditionally used in hair dyes, such as anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants (surfactants), fatty alcohols, fatty acids, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers and their mixtures, organic thickeners and thickening polymers, antioxidants and reducing agents, passivators, UV shielding agents, waxes, perfumes, preservatives, conditioning agents, dispersants, agents, I attach s pearlescence, ceramides, plant, mineral or synthetic oils, vitamins or provitamins such as panthenol, opacifiers [RU 2283643, A61K 8/25; A61K 8/19; A61K 8/23; A61Q 5/10].

This invention is closest to the proposed composition. The technical task and the positive result of the proposed composition for hair coloring is ammonia-free composition for hair coloring, in which an alkaline medium with pH = 10-10.5 is created by a buffer mixture of aminomethylpropanol with ammonium sulfate, which provides deep and intense hair coloring without damaging them, and without causing allergic reactions, itching and tingling of the skin, there is no irritating smell of ammonia.

The proposed composition for dyeing hair consists of two phases - Phase A and Phase B, placed separately from each other and mixed immediately before use. Phase A is a creamy agent that is an oil-water emulsion and also contains oxidative dyes and / or their salts in an aqueous alkaline medium and direct-action dyes. Phase B is an oxidizing agent that is an aqueous solution of hydrogen nonoxide with a pH of 3.5. A distinctive feature of this invention is that the phase A alkaline medium is created completely without the addition of ammonia, with a mixture of aminomethylpropanol, which is taken in a concentration of 0.5% to 6.0% with ammonium sulfate taken in a concentration of 0.5-1.5 % This mixture forms a buffer in the range pH = 10-10.5, which provides deep and intense hair coloring without damaging them. In addition, the composition does not have an irritating smell of ammonia and does not cause itching and pinching of the skin.

In addition to the listed components, the composition for coloring includes the usual components of cosmetic creams:

Phase A: thickening agent - cetearyl alcohol - 6.0-10.0% emulsifiers: glycerol monostearate, ceteareth-30, MEA cocamide, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil - 7.5-25.0% organic solvent: hexyldecanol, hexyldecyl laurate, propylene glycol, ethoxydiglycol - 3.5-11.0% conditioning agent: quaternium - 70, hydrolyzed keratin, avocado oil, dimethicone - 2.3-12.0% reducing agent: sodium sulfite, sodium erythorbate - 0.3-1.4% perfume composition - 0.2-0.5% preservative: methyl paraben, propyl paraben, ethyl paraben in phenoxyethanol - 0.1-0.6% complexon - tetrasodium salt of ethylenediamine - tetraacetic acid - 0.01-0.1% provitamins and vitamins: panthenol, olive extract - 0.5-3.0% mica, titanium dioxide - 0.5-0.8% water up to 100%

The content of oxidation dyes in the patented composition is from 0.0001% to 3.0%. These are color developers: o- and p-phenylenediamines, as well as o- and p-aminophenols of the aromatic series (benzene, naphthalene, anthraquinone), and nitrogen-containing heterocycles (pyrazole, pyrimidine, pyridine, etc.). The colored components are m-aminophenols, di- and trihydroxy derivatives of the aromatic and heterocyclic series, their nitro, chloro, methoxy and ethoxy derivatives, etc.

Dyes of direct action (acidic, basic (cationic), active, dispersed) can also be included in the composition for dyeing hair in a concentration of up to 0.4%.

Phase B:

The oxidizing agent containing hydrogen peroxide is prepared separately and packaged in special bottles. It consists of:

hydrogen peroxide 1.5-12.0% cetearyl alcohol 2.0-4.0% Ceteareth-20 1.0-5.0% cetrimonium chloride 1.0-3.0% phosphoric acid (conc.) 0.1-0.5% ethylenediaminetetraacetic tetrasodium salt acids (EDTA) 0.05-0.3% sodium stannate 0.015-0.1%

Table 1 Example 1 Phase A Formulation - Copper Brown Tone No. Component Name % content one Cetearyl alcohol 6.5 2 Glyceryl stearate 3.0 3 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 3.2 four Ceteareth-30 3,5 5 Cocamide MEA 5,0 6 Avocado oil 2.0 7 Quaternium 70 0.5 8 Hexyldecanol, Hexyl Decillaurate 3.0 9 Phenyl trimethicone 0.4 10 Bis (C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ alkoxy) PG amodimethicone 0.4 eleven Dimethicone 1,0 12 Ethoxyglycol 3.0 13 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid tetrasodium salt 0.05 fourteen Sodium sulfite 0.4 fifteen Sodium erythorbate 0.8 16 Panthenol 2.0 17 Keratin hydrolyzate 0.3 eighteen Olive Leaf Extract in Propylene Glycol 0.7 19 Mica, titanium dioxide 0.5 twenty Ammonium sulfate 1.3 21 Methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylparaben in phenoxyethanol 0.1 22 Perfumery composition 0.4 23 Toluene-2.5 diamino sulfate 1,2 24 m-aminophenol 0.1 25 p-aminophenol 0.7 26 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene 0.1 27 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol 0.3 28 Resorcinol 0.4 29th Aminomethylpropanol 3.2 thirty Water up to 100

table 2 Example 2 Phase A Formulation - Intense Brown Brown Tone No. Component Name % content one Cetearyl alcohol 9.0 2 Glyceryl stearate 5.1 3 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 4.6 four Ceteareth-30 3.3 5 Cocamide MEA 5,0 6 Avocado oil 0.6 7 Quaternium 70 0.5 8 Hexyldecanol, Hexyl Decillaurate 3.0 9 Phenyl trimethicone 0.8 10 Bis (C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone 1,0 eleven Dimethicone 1,0 12 Ethoxyglycol 3.0 13 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid tetrasodium salt 0.05 fourteen Sodium sulfite 0.1 fifteen Sodium erythorbate 0.1 16 Panthenol 0.5 17 Keratin hydrolyzate 0.3 eighteen Olive Leaf Extract in Propylene Glycol 0.3 19 Mica, Titanium Dioxide 0.5 twenty Ammonium sulfate 1,5 21 Methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylparaben in phenoxyethanol 0.1 22 Perfumery composition 0.4 23 Toluene-2.5 Diamino Sulphate 1,5 24 m-aminophenol 0.19 25 Resorcinol 0.4 26 2-methylresorcinol 0.15 27 Aminomethylpropanol 2,8 28 Water up to 100

Table 3 Example 3 Phase A compounding - tone "Dark Brown" No. Component Name % content one Cetearyl alcohol 8.5 2 Glyceryl stearate 5.2 3 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 3.4 four Ceteareth-30 3.2 5 Cocamide MEA 2,5 6 Avocado oil 0.65 7 Quaternium 70 1,1 8 Hexyldecanol, Hexyl Decillaurate 2,4 9 Phenyl trimethicone 0.3 10 Bis (C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ alkoxy) PG amodimethicone 0.5 eleven Dimethicone 2.0 12 Ethoxyglycol 3,1 13 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid tetrasodium salt 0.1 fourteen Sodium sulfite 0.25 fifteen Sodium erythorbate 0.5 16 Panthenol 2.2 17 Keratin hydrolyzate 0.3 eighteen Olive Leaf Extract in Propylene Glycol 0.65 19 Mica, titanium dioxide 0.5 twenty Ammonium sulfate 1.3 21 Methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylparaben 0.5 in phenoxyethanol 22 Perfumery composition 0.5 23 p-phenylenediamine 0.6 24 m-aminophenol 0,055 25 Resorcinol 0.32 26 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole sulfate 0.014 27 Aminomethylpropanol 3.0 28 Water up to 100

Preparation of a composition for dyeing hair.

1. Creamy product (phase A).

Fat melt preparation

Fat components - high molecular weight alcohols, MEA cocamide, quaternium-70, avocado oil, hexyldecanol, hexyl decillaurate, glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and cetearet-30 are melted at a temperature of 45-55 ° С and this is kept for 30 min.

Preparation of an aqueous solution of dyes.

The estimated amount of water is heated to 45-50 ° C, salts are added - sodium erythorbate, sodium sulfite, tetrasodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ammonium sulfate. The solution is stirred at this temperature for 30 minutes, after which ethoxydiglycol, panthenol, dyes, mica, titanium dioxide are charged, argon is fed, heated to 65-70 ° C and held for 60 minutes.

The fatty phase is mixed with an aqueous dye solution at a temperature of 65-70 ° С for 30 minutes, then it is cooled to a temperature of 40 ° С and silicones, perfume composition, propylene glycol extract of olive leaves, keratin hydrolyzate, preservative and aminomethyl-propanol are added. Mix the composition for 30 minutes, after which a sample is taken for analysis. With positive results of the analysis for compliance with regulatory and technical documentation, the finished product is packaged in tubes.

2. Oxidizing agent (phase B).

The calculated amount of water is heated to 45-50 ° C, Cetearet-20 is added and the temperature is increased to 65-70 ° C, cetearyl alcohol and cetrimonium chloride are added and the mass is mixed for 60 minutes. Then cooled to 30 ° C, adding sodium stannate. A pre-prepared aqueous solution of EDTA tetrasodium salt (1:10), phosphoric acid and the remaining amount of water are introduced, and then hydrogen peroxide. The mass is stirred for 30 minutes, a sample is taken for analysis and, if positive, packaged in special bottles.

Immediately before use, phase A is mixed with phase B.

All compositions for hair coloring have passed toxicological and clinical trials in the Accredited Testing Laboratory Center of the Federal State Budget Scientific Institution RNIITO named after R.R. Harmful "Ministry of Health and Social Development of Russia. Toxicological tests were evaluated by the degree of cytotoxic effect (CTD) according to morphological indicators of the integrity of the monolayer of fibroblast cells of the skin of a human embryo and by assessing the irritating properties of the conjunctiva of the eye using a test on the chorioallantoic membrane of a chicken embryo.

Clinical trials were carried out on volunteers - clinically healthy individuals not burdened with an allergic history, groups of 25 people aged 18 to 45 years.

As a result of toxicological and clinical trials, it was found that the compositions for dyeing hair do not have a cytotoxic, skin-irritating and sensitizing effect.

Thus, an ammonia-free composition for dyeing hair has been developed, in which an alkaline environment with pH = 10-10.5 is created by a buffer mixture of aminomethylpropanol with ammonium sulfate, which provides deep and intense coloring of the hair without damaging it and without causing allergic reactions, itching and pinching the skin, there is no irritating smell of ammonia.

Bibliography

1. US 7198651, A61K 7/13.

2. US 7241318, A61K 7/13.

3. US 1825883, A61Q 5/06.

4. RU 2356590, A61Q 5/10.

5. US 7427301, A61Q 5/10.

6. US 7204856, A61K 7/13.

7. US 1813264, A61K 8/81.

8. US 7300470, A61K 7/13.

9. US 7204859, A61K 7/13.

10. EP 1813263, A61K 8/81.

11. Yoko K., Ioshikatsu Jo. The proposed mechanism of hair coloring // Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2009. V. 31, No. 3. S.273.

12. FR 2856292, A61K 7/13.

13. UA 70370, A61K 7/13.

14. RU 2283643, A61K 8/25; A61K 8/19; A61K 8/23; A61Q 5/10.

Claims (5)

1. The composition for dyeing hair, characterized in that it consists of 2 phases, placed separately from each other and mixed immediately before use, where one of the phases is an oxidizing agent in the form of an aqueous solution containing hydrogen peroxide, pH 3.5; and the second phase includes a mixture of aminomethylpropanol and ammonium sulfate, forming a buffer at a pH of 10-10.5, introduced into a creamy emulsion, which includes cetearyl alcohol as a thickening agent, as emulsifiers - surfactants - glycerol monostearate, ceteret-30, MEA cocamide PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil; as coloring components, oxidation dyes and / or their salts with inorganic acids and / or direct-action dyes; as organic solvents, hexyldecanol, hexyldecyl laurate, propylene glycol or ethoxydiglycol; as reducing agents - sodium erythorbate and sodium sulfite; as a complexing agent, water softening, tetrasodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid; conditioning agents - quaternium-70, hydrolyzed keratin, avacado oil, or dimethicone; as preservatives, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben or propyl paraben in phenoxyethanol; as vitamins and provitamins - panthenol or olive extract; as agents that add pearlescent shine, mica or titanium dioxide, a perfume composition, with the following ratios of components in the specified emulsion; wt.%:
thickening agent: cetearyl alcohol 6.0-10.0 emulsifiers: glycerol monostearate, ceteareth-30, MEA cocamide, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 7.5-25.0 organic solvent: hexyldecanol, hexyl decyl laurate, propylene glycol, ethoxydiglycol 3,5-11,0 conditioning agent: quaternium-70, hydrolyzed keratin, avacado oil, dimethicone 2.3-12.0 reducing agent: sodium sulfite, sodium erythorbate 0.3-1.4 perfume composition 0.2-0.5 preservative: methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben in phenoxyethanol 0.1-0.6 complexon: tetrasodium salt ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.01-0.1 provitamins and vitamins: panthenol, olive extract 0.5-3.0 mica, titanium dioxide 0.5-0.8 water up to 100 2. The composition for dyeing hair according to claim 1, characterized in that the aminomethylpropanol and ammonium sulfate, forming a buffer of pH 10-10.5, are introduced into the creamy emulsion in the amount of 0.5-6.0% and 0.5-1, 5% respectively. 3. The composition for dyeing hair according to claim 1, characterized in that the dyes contain components of oxidative dyeing - developers from among o- and p-phenylenediamines, as well as o- and p-aminophenols of the aromatic series (benzene, naphthalene, anthraquinone), and nitrogen-containing heterocycles (pyrazole, pyrimidine, pyridine, etc.), as well as colored components - m-aminophenols, di- and trihydroxy derivatives of the aromatic and heterocyclic series, their nitro, chloro, methoxy and ethoxy derivatives, so that the dye components are selected from direct dyes action effects (acidic, basic (cationic), active, dispersed, still), which are nitro dyes, anthraquinone, azo dyes, arylmethane, arylamine, phthalocyanine. 4. The composition for dyeing hair according to claim 1, characterized in that the content of each individual coloring component introduced into the composition is 0.0001-3.0%. 5. The composition for dyeing hair according to claim 1, characterized in that the oxidizing agent, which is in a separate bottle and mixes with the dye composition immediately before use, contains hydrogen peroxide 1.5-12.0%, cetearyl alcohol 2.0-4 , 0%, ceteareth -20 1.0-5.0%, cetrimonium chloride 1.0-3.0%, phosphoric acid (conc.) 0.1-0.5%, tetrasodium salt of EDTA 0.05-0 , 3%, sodium stannate 0.015-0.1%.