RU2205627C1 - Toxin-removal face cream - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine, cosmetics. SUBSTANCE: invention relates to agents designated for skin face care. Face cream removing toxins comprising oily phase, structure-forming emulsifying agents, BAD, triethanolamine, wetting additions, preserving agents, perfume composition and water involves additionally dimethicon and cyclomethicon, carbopol or carbomers, or SAKAP or SAKAP-R. Apricot oil or avocado oil, or peach oil, olive leaves oily extract, vitamin E, coneflower extract are used as BAD. Cream comprises isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate as oily phase and centearyl alcohol and cetearete-20, methyl glucose sesquistearate and methylglucete-20, glycerol or propylene glycol, allantoin, bronopol or bronitrol, para- hydroxybenzoic acid methyl and propyl esters or Katon or Germaben as structure-forming emulsifying agents. Cream shows anti-inflammatory effect, eliminates toxins, wets skin effectively and exhibits antiseptic and stimulating action. EFFECT: valuable medicinal and cosmetic properties of cream. 2 tbl

Description

 The invention relates to medicine, namely to cosmetics intended for facial skin care.

 Composition for skin care, skin care method, method of simulating the effect on the skin of retinoic acid [1] containing a retinoid, an acid and a carrier. Oleanolic acid and / or ursolic acid in combination with retinol or a retinyl ester synergistically inhibit keratinocyte differentiation. Examples 3-8 illustrate topical compositions of the invention: a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water cream, two alcohol lotions, a sunscreen, and an anhydrous skin care composition. An oil-in-water cream (Example 4) includes a combination of the compounds of the invention, wt. %: retinoic acid 0.15, mineral oil 4.00, oleanolic acid 1.00, Brij 56 (cetyl alcohol POE) -4.00, Alfol 16RD (cetyl alcohol) 4.00, triethanolamine 0.75, butane-1 , 3-diol 3.00, xanthan gum 0.30, fragrance in sufficient quantities, butylated hydroxytoluene 0.01, water - up to 100 (patent of the company UNILEVER N.V.).

 Composition [1] is used as a skin softening agent, and also to prevent the formation or reduction of wrinkles or to improve the appearance of withered skin.

 Two patents of NIZAR Commercial Center CJSC describe the use of avocado oil (0.5-5.0%) as part of a cream mask for skin rejuvenation [2] and [3]. It is shown that avocado oil removes damaged cells in addition to regeneration skin irritation and tension.

 The type of emulsion oil / water and the composition closest to the claimed is a cream with oleanolic acid (example 4) according to the patent [1], selected as a prototype.

 The difference of the claimed cream for a person removing toxins from the prototype, see table. 1.

 The prototype cream contains an oil phase - mineral oil, structure-forming emulsifiers - cetyl alcohols, xanthan gum, a moisturizing additive - butane-1,3-diol, biologically active additives - retinoic, oleanolic and ursolic acids, a neutralizing agent - triethanolamine, a preservative - butylated hydroxytoluene , perfume and water.

 The task of the inventors was to create a face cream. ridding the skin of toxins formed in cells due to environmental pollution, and filling the skin with active moisturizing components through the use of vegetable oils, unique plant extracts and effective emulsifiers - methyl glucosides obtained from corn grains.

 Introduced in the composition of the inventive cream olive leaf extract protects cells from UV rays, chemical effects, has anti-inflammatory effects, removes toxins and actively moisturizes; natural oils - apricot, avocado and peach soften the skin, make up for the lack of lipids and fatty acids; Vitamin E fights the signs of premature aging by neutralizing free radicals; Echinacea extract has an antiseptic and stimulating effect. As a result, the complexion improves, the skin becomes soft and smooth.

The essence of the invention lies in the fact that the claimed face cream that removes toxins containing the oil phase, structure-forming emulsifiers, dietary supplements, triethanolamine, moisturizing additives, preservatives, perfume composition and water, characterized in that it further comprises dimethicone and / or cyclomethicone, carbopol or carbomer, or SAKAP, or SAKAP-R, as biologically active additives - apricot oil, or avocado oil, or peach oil, olive oil leaf extract, vitamin E, echinacea extract, in as an oil phase contains isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate, contains cetearyl alcohol and cetearet-20 as structure-forming emulsifiers, and additionally methyl sesquistearate methyl glucose and methyl glucet-20, distilled glycerin or propylene glycol, bronantrolintum as a moisturizing agent, , methyl esters - and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid, or Cato CG, or Hermaben II, in the following ratio, wt.%:
Cetearyl alcohol and cetareth-20 - 2.00-8.00
Methyl glucose sesquistearate (Glucate SS) - 1.00-3.00
Methyl Glucet-20 (Glucam E-20) - 0.50-3.00
Isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate - 3.00-10.00
Dimethicone and / or cyclomethicone - 1.00-5.00
Oil Olive Leaf Extract - 1.00-5.00
Apricot oil, or avocado oil, or peach oil - 1.00-4.00
Vitamin E (solution of tocopherol acetate 1% in oil) - 0.20-2.00
Echinacea extract in propylene glycol, or Echinacea water-alcohol extract, or Echinacea water-alcohol glycerin extract - 0.50-3.00
Distilled glycerin PK-94 or propylene glycol - 1.00-5.00
Allantoin - 0.10-0.50
Carbopol brand 940, or carbopol brand ETD 2001, or carbomers, or SAKAP, or SAKAP-R - 0.10-1.00
Triethanolamine, or sodium hydroxide, or technical caustic soda - 0.10-1.00
Methyl paraoxybenzoic acid ester or CATON CG - 0.10-1.00
Propyl paraoxybenzoic acid ester or CATON CG - 0.10-1.00
Bronopol, or Bronitrol, or CATON CG, or Hermaben II - 0.01-0.50
Perfumery composition - Not more than 0.80
Drinking water - Up to 100.11
Cream preparation is carried out according to the following technology.

In the preparatory boiler for the preparation of the fat phase, load: cetearyl alcohol and cetearet-20, methyl glucose sesquistearate, isopropyl palmitate, vitamin E, cyclomethicone and heated to a temperature of 75-80 ^o C.

Water, carbopol are charged into the reactor and mixed until completely dissolved. Then glycerin, methyl glucet-20 are added and heated to a temperature of 70-75 ^o C.

 When this temperature is reached, molten fatty raw materials, apricot oil or avocado oil, allantoin and a mixture of methyl and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid esters are fed into the reactor from the preparatory boiler.

Emulsification of the cream is carried out at a temperature of 75-80 ^o C for 35-40 minutes Cooling is turned on and triethanolamine is added at a temperature of 60-65 ^{° C.} Then, as it cools, the extract of olive leaves, echinacea extract and bronopol are loaded. When cooled to a temperature of 30 ^o With load the perfume composition.

 The finished cream is analyzed, pumped into a collection container for storage and then served on the packaging.

 The cream is a homogeneous mass from white to cream in color with an exquisite and sophisticated aroma, combining the freshness of lemon, orange, bergamot with warm floral shades of ylang-ylang, white lily, jasmine and notes of musk, cedar wood and cloves.

 The composition of the cream for the face, removing toxins, for several examples are shown in table 2.

 Description of the main raw materials used in the inventive cream.

 The oil phase is formed by isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate, apricot oil, or avocado oil, or peach oil, olive oil leaf extract.

 All these oils are rich in essential fatty acids, restore the epidermal barrier and the skin's water-holding ability.

Structural emulsifiers are selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol and cetareth-20, methyl glucosides: methyl glucose-20 (Glucam E-20 ^® ) and methyl glucose sesquisterate (Glucate SS ^® ).
Cetearyl alcohol and cetareth-20 are produced by Cognis Deutschland GmbH, Croda, Amerchol and others under their own brands.

 Used in creamy oil / water emulsions.

Methyl Glucosides Methyl Glucet-20 (Glucam E-20 ^® ) and Methyl Glucose Sesquisterate (Glucate SS ^® ).
Methyl glucosides are obtained from corn grain. From natural methyl glucosides, the American company Amerchol ^{® has} developed and produces a whole series of glucoside derivatives - soft, natural, economical and effective.

Methyl Glucet-20 (Glucam E-20 ^® ) is an active humidifier that can withstand pressure, its structural formula is given at the end of the description.

 In creams and lotions, Glucam E-20 is a particularly effective moisturizer. Its activity plays a decisive role in protecting the skin from drying out under solar radiation. It gives creams lightness, soothes the skin, its moisturizing effect is stored on the skin for a long time after applying the cream.

Methyl glucose sesquisterate (Glucate SS ^® ) is a nonionic emulsifier, its structural formula is given at the end of the description. Glucate SS is mainly used for the formation of water / oil emulsions, ensures the safety of cosmetic products and significantly exceeds other emulsifiers in terms of performance.

 This component has an extremely low level of excitability of sensitive skin around the eyes, and therefore it is introduced into creams, lotions and makeup products around the eyes for daily use.

Conducted tests - cutaneous applications showed a lack of excitability and sensitization when using Glucate SS. This glucoside is economical and multifunctional, since even at low concentrations it provides effective emulsification and stability of emulsions (according to Amerchol ^® , USA).

 The film-forming components are dimethicone and cyclomethicone (by force) or cyclomethicone (products DC 245 or DC 345). They are a composition based on dimethylsiloxanes (dimethicone) and cyclomethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicone). Grades A, B, C, G, D are produced with the content of dimethicone,%: 10, 30, 50, 70, 90, respectively, the rest is cyclomethicone.

 Gelling agents are selected from the group consisting of carbopol of grade 940, or carbopol of brand ETD 2001, or carbomers, or SAKAP, or SAKAP-R.

 The neutralizing agent is selected from the group consisting of triethanolamine (2,2 ', 2 "-nitrilotriethanol), or sodium hydroxide, or technical sodium hydroxide.

 Moisturizing components are selected from the group consisting of glycerol or propylene glycol, allantoin.

 Allantoin has a moisturizing and epithelizing effect on rough and cracked skin, eliminates peeling, and makes the skin smooth and supple. In the presence of allantoin, the regenerative properties of the skin are enhanced. When added to face and body skin care products, it provides softness, silkiness of the skin, it acquires a clean, well-groomed appearance.

 Biologically active additives are selected from the group consisting of an extract of olive oil leaves, an extract of echinacea, avocado oil, or apricot or peach, vitamin E.

 Oil Olive Leaf Extract (Oleanoline) is an active ingredient extracted from olive leaves (Olea europaea). Manufactured by Seporga.

 Oil extract from olive leaves consists mainly of oleanolic acid (oleanolic acid) - triterpene, which has a protective effect.

 Terpenes and their derivatives - terpenoids belong to a very large class of plant secondary metabolites.

 Oleanolic acid is a pentacyclic triterpene, a chemical isomer of ursolic acid, similar in biological activity. Studies have shown that Oleanoline has remarkable cosmetic capabilities for protecting and restoring the epidermis: restoring the skin barrier, moisturizing, reducing erythema, detoxifying, and UV protection. It has the properties of softening the skin, is able to remove toxins and prevent skin aging (see structural formulas at the end of the description).

 Triterpenoid compounds, widely described in the literature, have very interesting biological activity. Due to the amphiphilic structure, triterpenoids are involved in the regulation of various mechanisms, such as inhibition of protein kinase activity.

 Oleanolic acid, due to its amphiphilic structure, which includes positioned polar groups (carboxylic and hydroxyl) at the ends of the nonpolar triterpenoid structure, is a strong inhibitor of the activity of c-AMP-dependent protein kinase. These enzymes include a signal on the pathways of transformation, cellular defense and a slowdown in inflammatory processes.

The anti-inflammatory effect is a common property of most triterpenoids. The anti-inflammatory effect of oleanolic acid, first described in 1960, acts by the following mechanism:
1. Slows down the activity of lipoxygenase and cyclooxygenase, lowering the concentration of certain pro-inflammatory compounds (prostaglandins PGE2 and leukotrienes B).

 2. Slows down the formation of histamine, a powerful source of inflammation and allergies.

 3. The content of elastase, which affects the destruction of connective tissue, is reduced.

4. The activity of the C ₃ complex decreases.

 Thus, the anti-inflammatory effect of oleanolic acid is based on its ability to inhibit the formation of major inflammatory mediators.

Antelastase activity:
Elastase is an enzyme that accumulates in large quantities in leukocytes and is included in the destruction of elastin, which is the cause of inflammatory processes that occur during chemical and mechanical influences.

 Pentacyclic triterpenoid oleanolic acid is a potent elastase inhibitor. The concentration of triterpene, in which the formation of elastase is reduced, (IC 50), is 4-6 μM.

 Slowing down the formation of elastase in the presence of oleanolic acid is associated with the amphiphilic structure of the molecule and is due to the two-way binding of the active center of the enzyme. The connection is due to the electrostatic interactions of the carboxyl groups of oleanolic acid with the active sites of elastase.

Cell defense effectiveness
Oleanolic acid has the effect of cell defense: it reduces the activity caused by irritants and toxicity. The mechanism of action is based on a decrease in metabolism and inhibition of keratinase in the p450 cytochrome complex. Oleanolic acid also stimulates the protective mechanisms of certain antioxidants, such as glutathione, zinc metallothianines and glutathione-S-transferase. It also slows down the formation of lipid peroxides.

Antimicrobial activity
Ursolic and oleanolic acids exhibit antimicrobial activity, reducing the growth of staphylococci and some gram-negative microorganisms. Acids also have a high antifungicidal spectrum.

 Oleanolic acid is recognized as an inhibitor of 5α-redustase, an enzyme responsible for the occurrence of acne (redheads) and hair loss (Based on materials from Seporga).

Echinacea extract in propylene glycol, or echinacea extract water-alcohol, or echinacea extract water-alcohol-glycerin
Echinacea purpurea - Echinacea purpurea Moench
Echinacea angustifolia - Echinacea angustifolia DC

 All plant organs contain essential oil, the main part of which is non-cyclic sesquiterpene, the roots contain the glycoside echinacoside, betaine, resin, which contains palmitic, linoleic, cerotinic and other acids.

 Both types of plants have high bactericidal properties. They are used as an antiseptic for external and internal use. Inside prescribed for infectious and septic conditions; externally - with carbuncles, abscesses and infected wounds.

 Juice from fresh inflorescences activates blood coagulation, when applied topically, it stimulates tissue granulation and phagocyte activity - it accelerates wound healing, epithelization in burns of the I-III degree and severe bedsores. In the treatment of burns, an analgesic effect is also noted [4].

 Avocado oil is the product of pressing or extracting dried avocado fruits. It has a fairly dark color, a characteristic odor and a pleasant taste, reminiscent of peanut butter. The composition of the oil includes oleic (up to 60%), palmitic (25%), linoleic (6%) acids, a small amount of myristic, stearic, linolenic acids. The unsaponifiable part of the oil contains vitamins A, C, D, E, K, PP, B vitamins, as well as phytosterols, salts of phosphoric acid, squalene, trace elements. The oil is resistant to rancidity, easily and quickly absorbed by the skin, does not cause irritation. In cosmetic preparations, it is used in clarified form [5].

Vitamin E (tocopherol acetate-1% solution)
A solution of tocopherol acetate (vitamin E) 5, 10, 30% in oil before use is diluted to 1% concentration with olive or other vegetable high oleic refined deodorized oils.

 Vitamin E is a natural antioxidant. It protects various substances from oxidative changes. Participates in the biosynthesis of heme and proteins, cell proliferation, tissue respiration and other major processes of cellular metabolism.

 Preservatives are selected from the group consisting of methyl and propyl paraoxybenzoic acid esters, bronopol or bronitrol, KATON CG (methylchloroisothiazolone, methylisothiazolone, magnesium chloride, magnesium nitrate) or Hermaben II (methyl and propyl esters of paraoxybenzoic acid molene diazole).

 The inventive face cream that removes toxins, has passed toxicological and clinical trials in an accredited testing laboratory center of the Institute of Beauty.

 Toxicological studies have shown that a cream that removes toxins does not have a general toxic, skin-irritating and sensitizing effect.

 Clinical trials were conducted on 20 patients for 30 days. Tests have shown that the cream is harmless, does not have an irritating and allergenic effect and is intended for skin care.

 The cream is intended for daily use at any convenient time, it is applied to previously cleansed skin.

Sources of information
1. Patent US UNILEVER N.V. 2175546, 7 A 61 K 7/48, A 61 P 17/00, publ. 11/10/2001, BI 31 (prototype).

 2. RF patent 2173984, 7 A 61 K 7/48, 7/00, publ. 09/27/2001, BI 27.

 3. RF patent 2173982, 7 A 61 K 7/48, 7/00, publ. 09/27/2001, BI 27.

 4. B. G. Volynsky and others. Plants in medicine. Ed. Saratov University, 1989, p. 349.

 5. G. V. Avramenko et al. Explanatory Dictionary of Perfumes and Cosmetics, vol. II. - M.: Cosmetics and Medicine 2000, p. 6.

Claims (1)

Face cream that removes toxins, contains the oil phase, structure-forming emulsifiers, dietary supplements, triethanolamine, moisturizers, preservatives, perfume composition and water, characterized in that it further contains dimethicone and cyclomethicone, carbopol or carbomers, or SAKAP, or SAKAP- P, as biologically active additives - apricot oil, or avocado oil, or peach oil, olive oil leaf extract, vitamin E, echinacea extract, isopropyl palmitate or isopr as the oil phase opilmyristate, as structure-forming emulsifiers - cetearyl alcohol and cetearet-20 and additionally methyl glucose sesquistearate and methyl glucose-20, as moisturizing additives - distilled glycerin or propylene glycol, allantoin, as preservatives - bronopol or bronitrol, methyl ether and acid, or Cato CG, or Hermaben II in the following ratio of components, wt.%:
Cetearyl alcohol and cetareth-20 - 2.00 - 8.00
Methyl glucose sesquistearate - 1.00 - 3.00
Methyl Glucet-20 - 0.50 - 3.00
Isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate - 3.00 - 10.00
Dimethicone and / or cyclomethicone - 1.00 - 5.00
Oil Olive Leaf Extract - 1.00-5.00
Apricot oil, or avocado oil, or peach oil - 1.00 - 4.00
Vitamin E (solution of tocopherol acetate 1% in oil) - 0.20 - 2.00
Echinacea extract in propylene glycol, or Echinacea water-alcohol extract, or Echinacea water-alcohol glycerin extract - 0.50 - 3.00
Distilled glycerin PK-94 or propylene glycol - 1.00 - 5.00
Allantoin - 0.10 - 0.50
Carbopol, or carbomers, or SAKAP, or SAKAP-R - 0.10 - 1.00
Triethanolamine, or sodium hydroxide, or technical caustic soda - 0.10 - 1.00
Methyl paraoxybenzoic acid ester or Cato GG - 0.10 - 1.00
Propyl paraoxybenzoic acid ester or Cato GG - 0.10 - 1.00
Bronopol or Bronitrol, or Cato CG, or Hermaben II - 0.01 - 0.50
Perfumery composition - Not more than 0.80
Drinking water - Up to 100.00i

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