KR100271315B1 - Skin hypoallergenic cosmetic composition containing encapsulated retinol - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention includes a 40 ± 5 μm capsule formed by encapsulating D-α-acetic acid tocopherol with marine collagen and chitosan as a matrix, and phyto-albumin, an amino acid protein derivative, with significantly reduced irritation in water. It relates to a type skin cosmetic composition. The capsule of the present invention has a drug delivery system (DDS) characteristic that is capable of slowly degrading and acting slowly when absorbed into the skin. D1-α-tocopherol, a substance that relieves skin irritation, provides an antioxidant effect, and phyto albumin, an amino acid protein derivative, supplies rejuvenation and effects of skin cells to reduce irritability of retinol or its derivatives.

Description

Low-irritating Skin Toilet Composition Containing Encapsulated Retinol

The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic composition that alleviates the skin irritation of retinol and its derivatives. More specifically, the present invention is a subterranean type of water with significantly reduced irritation, including phyto albumin, an amino acid protein derivative, with a capsule formed by encapsulating retinol or a derivative thereof and D1-α-tocopherol as a matrix using marine collagen and chitosan as a matrix. It relates to a skin cosmetic composition.

Retinol and its derivatives are known to be excellent raw materials for skin regeneration, but are also well known as raw materials that generate many skin irritants.

In general, retinol or its derivatives are known to be very thermodynamically unstable. Especially, retinol is easily oxidized by oxygen, light and heat in the air, and loses its effect. Degraded retinol derivatives cause skin irritation. Increasing the oil phase in cosmetics containing retinol derivatives causes thermal isomerization. Increasing the water phase decomposes the retinol component, making it difficult for the retinol to act on the skin. As a result, it is reported that thermal isomerization occurs due to temperature, and the effect of the retinol component rapidly decreases due to dehydration by water, oxidation and decomposition by oxygen, and the like.

When retinol derivatives are used in cosmetics, yellow discoloration occurs. The conventional technique may reduce discoloration with dibutyl hydroxy acetone (BHA) or dibutyl hydroxy toluene (BHT), but these ingredients are also known to be irritating to the skin. This technology is not used recently.

As another method of stabilizing retinol derivatives, tocopherol and ascorbyl palmitate are used, but their efficiency is known to be insignificant.

Recently, many methods for encapsulating the retinol component with gelatin gum, alginic acid, and the like have been proposed. These techniques can't reduce the irritability of retinol itself because it absorbs into the skin and the components of the retinol burst out and are absorbed directly into the skin at once. Many prior arts have focused solely on stabilizing retinol derivatives to act on the skin. Recently, many side effects caused by retinol have been generated, and there is no known technique to alleviate the stimulus.

In the present invention, the formulation of the cosmetic composition to minimize the skin irritation of the retinol derivative is meaningful to develop a product suitable for the skin. The present inventors have introduced the concept of a drug delivery system in cosmetics containing retinol to allow stable retinol components to act slowly on the skin, and have succeeded in creating a skin cosmetic composition containing hypo-irritant retinol and its derivatives using a new component called phyto albumin. It was.

That is, the present inventors have been researching to use retinol derivatives known as skin wrinkle improvement and DNA cell activator in cosmetics. I found out that all the technologies I have been developing so far have begun to focus on skin safety. First, they stabilized the retinol and made it into a small size (40 ± 5μm) to act slowly on the skin.To protect it, the antioxidant D1-α-tocopherol was prescribed in a certain ratio (1: 1). In addition, phyto-albumin was mixed with 0 / W formulation to stabilize retinol, antioxidant activity, and formulated phyto-albumin protein with amino acid components to minimize irritation and to make compositions that make skin safe and stable cosmetics.

1 is a schematic diagram of a capsule produced according to the present invention.

Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of skin irritation relief by the capsule and phytoalbumin according to the present invention.

Figure 3 is a micrograph (400 times) of the capsule according to the present invention 1 day after manufacture.

Figure 4 is a micrograph (400 times) of the capsule according to the present invention three months after manufacture.

The present invention provides an oil-in-water (O / W) skin cosmetic composition comprising phyto albumin and a capsule containing D1-α-tocopherol with retinol or a derivative thereof, using marine collagen and chitosan as a matrix.

Specifically, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a mixed weight ratio of marine collagen to chitosan of 8: 2, a capsule content of 1 to 15 wt%, and a mixing weight ratio of retinol or its derivatives to D1-α-tocopherol of 0.5. : 1, 1: 1 or 1: 2, and the content of phyto albumin is 0.01 to 5% by weight. The formulation of the present invention is designed so that D1-α-tocopherol gives a high antioxidant effect and phyto albumin, an amino acid protein derivative, acts to reduce the irritation of retinol derivatives by supplying rejuvenation and nutrition of skin cells.

In another aspect, the present invention provides a capsule for skin cosmetic containing D1-α-tocopherol acetate together with retinol or a derivative thereof, using marine collagen and chitosan as a matrix.

The capsules of the present invention are specially encapsulated in a drug delivery system (DDS; drug derivery system) so that they can be slowly decomposed and acted upon when absorbed into the skin at a size of 40 ± 5 μm, and applied as cosmetics of 0 / W (underwater type) formulations. do. The capsules use marine collagen and chitosan to stabilize the retinol derivatives, which are absorbed by the keratin of the epidermis and begin to degrade slowly by enzymes, which then begin to act on the skin slowly.

The characteristics of the technical configuration according to the present invention are as follows.

1. Encapsulate with marine collagen / chitosan to stabilize retinol and its derivatives. These capsules are made from any ingredients in regular cosmetics and are not broken, but only slowly degraded by enzymes in the skin. The marine collagen / chitosan capsule is shown in FIG. 1, and the vehicle is 40 ± 5 μm in size and absorbed into the epidermis. The capsule of the present invention can prevent skin irritation because it is absorbed by the epidermis and is gradually degraded by an enzyme present in the skin.

The route by which retinol or its derivatives are absorbed by the skin is shown in FIG. 2. Retinol derivatives are absorbed into the epidermis and then slowly released by the action of the enzymes in the skin, indicating the pathway of absorption into the dermis.

2. The capsule according to the present invention is to ensure the stability of the skin cosmetic product by minimizing the oxidation or degradation of retinol derivatives by mixing D1-α-tocopherol which prevents the antioxidant of retinol.

3. The skin cosmetic composition according to the present invention is formulated to contain phyto albumin, an amino acid protein component, to nourish weak and tired skin and to activate langelhans cells to reduce irritation by retinol. In particular, the phyto albumin has a function of promoting the biosynthesis of the protein of the skin, the main function is to improve the wrinkles of the skin by increasing the fibrous cross-linking capacity of collagen.

The configuration of the present invention will be described in more detail below.

1) Skin Hypoallergenic Marine Collagen / Chitosan Matrix Encapsulation of Retinol and Its Derivatives

In order to establish a theory that can reduce the stimulation of the retinol derivative, the retinol derivative is made into 100.000 IU, and then the size of the vehicle is encapsulated to 40 ± 5 μm using marine collagen and chitosan as a matrix. At this time, the content ratio of marine collagen and chitosan is mixed at 8: 2.

The capsule method using the matrix of marine collagen and chitosan as a matrix is 10% of a mixture of marine collagen and chitosan at 8: 2 10%, butylene glycol 15%, retinyl palmitate 2%, paraoxybenzoic acid ester 0.1%, carbo Accurately weigh 0.25% of D1-α-tocopherol, 0.1-10% of D1-α-acetic acid, mix 62.65% of purified water, stir at 2500rpm for 5 minutes until completely dispersed in a homomixer, and charge A capsule film is formed. As shown in FIG. 3, after dropping 0.05% of 0.1% methylene blue, the indicator showed that the capsule 40 ± 5 μm was formed. In FIG. 4, the collagen was observed in an incubator at 45 ° C. for at least 3 months. The capsule was found to be unbreakable and stable.

2) Antioxidative Effect of Retinyl Palmitate Using D1-α-Tocopherol Acetate

To test the antioxidant effect of retinyl palmitate, retinol was fixed at 2% and D1-α-acetic tocopherol was increased to 0%, 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 4%, and the retinol antioxidant power was compared. . In the test method, 0.5 ml of the sample was mixed with 5 ml of DPPH radicals and reacted at 22 ° C. for 20 minutes, and the absorbance was examined at OD ₅₁₅ . The results are shown in Table 1 below. As a result, when D1-α-tocopherol was less than the content of retinol derivatives (0%, 0.5%, 1.0%, 1.5%), the antioxidant effects were 18.24%, 30.59%, 64.07%, 71.51%, respectively. Results were lower than the antioxidant effect (90.47%) when mixed at a ratio of 1. In addition, at a concentration of more than 4%, a relatively low result was obtained as 83.48%, which is a phenomenon that D1-α-tocopherol itself is oxidized and the effect is low, and base odor is generated. Therefore, in the present invention, it was the best to formulate by mixing 1: 1.

Antioxidant Effect Test Results of Retinyl Palmitate Item (mixed ratio) OD ₅₁₅ % Clearance DPPH radical DPPH radical + D1-α-tocopherol acetate Retinyl Palmitate: Dl-α-Tocopherol Acetate (2.0%: 0%) 1.102 0.901 18.24 Retinyl Palmitate: Dl-α-Tocopherol Acetate (2.0%: 0.5%) 1.102 0.765 30.59 Retinyl Palmitate: Dl-α-Tocopherol Acetate (2.0%: 1.0%) 1.102 0.396 64.07 Retinyl Palmitate: Dl-α-Tocopherol Acetate (2.0%: 1.5%) 1.102 0.314 71.51 Retinyl Palmitate: Dl-α-Tocopherol Acetate (2.0%: 2.0%) 1.102 0.105 90.47 Retinyl Palmitate: Dl-α-Tocopherol Acetate (2.0%: 4.0%) 1.102 0.182 83.48

In the following Examples, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is intended to specifically illustrate the method and its effect. However, these examples should not be understood as limiting the present invention.

Example

Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2

Glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, EDTA-2Na, carbomer, and purified water were used to form an oil-in-water emulsifier. Jojoba oil, macadamia oil, mineral oil, stearic acid and cetearyl were used in the oil phase. The content as described in Table 2 below was used with alcohol, glyceryl mono stearate, polysorbate 60.

The amounts of each component described below are expressed in pure parts and weight percent. Raw material name Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 glycerin 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 1,3-butylene glycol 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 EDTA-2Na 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 Methyl paraben 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Carbomer 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 water Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Triethanolamine 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Stearic acid 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Cetearyl alcohol 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 Glyceryl Monostearate 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 Jojoba oil 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Cyclomethicone 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Macadamia oil 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Mineral oil 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 Polysorbate-60 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 Ceramide 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Octylmethoxycinnamate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 D1-α-tocopherol acetate - 0.2 0.1 0.2 2.0 0.4 10% retinyl palmitate marine collagen / chitosan capsule 0.2 Standard Reagent 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Phytoalbumin - - 0.2 0.2 0.3 0.5 0.7

In the method for producing an oil-in-water emulsifying agent type, the aqueous phase and the oil phase are respectively weighed and melted to 75 to 78 ° C. according to the prescriptions of Comparative Examples 1, 2 and 3, and Examples 1 to 4, and then oil phase is applied to the aqueous phase using a homomixer. After slowly adding the mixture to 2,000 to 3,000rpm was emulsified for 3 to 5 minutes. After cooling to 40 ° C., the additive retinol collagen / chitosan capsule formulation and the protein component phytoalbumin were added and stirred. It cooled to 30 degreeC and completed manufacture.

Experimental Example

Skin irritation test was performed on the prepared emulsified formulations for women in their 20s to 40s by patch-test. In the test method, 2 mg of each sample was taken and adhered to the subject's right forearm for 48 hours, and then, after 1 hour, skin side effects such as erythema and itching were determined.

As a result of skin irritation test, as shown in Table 3 below, the skin irritation value of 23.75 was the highest in the formulation without encapsulating retinyl palmitate, and the skin irritation value of 0.2% of D1-α-tocopherol was 22.5 and phyto albumin. Skin irritation value of 21.5 was obtained when the product was not encapsulated in a product containing retinyl palmitate. Skin irritation was found to be the lowest as 11.25 (Example 3). When the content of D1-α-tocopherol and phyto albumin is excessive (Example 4), the stimulus value is increased to 18.75. The reason is that when the content of D1-α-tocopherol is high, the component itself is oxidized. It is believed to cause skin irritation.

Skin irritation test result (in vivo test) sample Skin irritation evaluation result Average stimulus judgment range (%) Irritancy judgment Remarks +++ ++ + +- - Comparative Example 1 - One 5 6 8 23.75 3 Moderate stimulation Comparative Example 2 - One 5 5 9 22.5 3 Moderate stimulation Comparative Example 3 - One 5 4 10 21.25 3 Moderate stimulation Example 1 - - 3 9 18 18.75 2 Mild stimulation Example 2 - - 2 9 9 16.25 2 Mild stimulation Example 3 - - 2 5 13 11.25 2 Mild stimulation Example 4 - One 4 4 11 18.75 2 Mild stimulation

Evaluation standard value: +++: 2 Stimulus determination according to the patch

++: 1.5 1: minimum stimulation (less than 10)

+: 1 2: mild stimulation (10.0 to 20)

+-: 0.5 3: Moderate stimulus (20.1 to 40)

-: 0 4: Severe irritation (40.1 and above)

The cosmetic composition of the present invention has the effect of fundamentally solving the skin irritation of the retinyl derivative. In other words, in order to protect the retinol derivative from air, it is encapsulated with marine collagen / chitosan, and it blocks ultraviolet rays and at the same time prevents oxidation by using D1-α-tocopherol, which is absorbed by the skin and absorbs the source of irritation. The function of albumin protein to counteract the skin irritation. Therefore, the retinol-containing cosmetic composition of the present invention is expected to be very useful in the skin cosmetic industry.

Claims (3)

An oil-in-water (O / W) skin cosmetic composition comprising phyto albumin and a capsule containing D1-α-tocopherol with retinol or a derivative thereof, using marine collagen and chitosan as a matrix. The method of claim 1, wherein the mixed weight ratio of marine collagen to chitosan is 8: 2, the capsule content is 1 to 15% by weight, and the mixed weight ratio of retinol or its derivatives to D1-α-tocopherol is 0.5: 1, 1 1: 1 or 1: 2, and the content of phyto albumin is 0.01 to 5% by weight. A skin cosmetic capsule containing D1-α-tocopherol acetate, together with retinol or a derivative thereof, using marine collagen and chitosan as a matrix.