JPS621032B2 - - Google Patents
Info
- Publication number
- JPS621032B2 JPS621032B2 JP54061556A JP6155679A JPS621032B2 JP S621032 B2 JPS621032 B2 JP S621032B2 JP 54061556 A JP54061556 A JP 54061556A JP 6155679 A JP6155679 A JP 6155679A JP S621032 B2 JPS621032 B2 JP S621032B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- fiber
- fibers
- cross
- raised
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 32
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 29
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 9
- -1 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 5
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 4
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 4
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M Potassium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[K+] KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- ISPYQTSUDJAMAB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-chlorophenol Chemical compound OC1=CC=CC=C1Cl ISPYQTSUDJAMAB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ZHNUHDYFZUAESO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Formamide Chemical compound NC=O ZHNUHDYFZUAESO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 2
- LLLVZDVNHNWSDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-methylidene-3,5-dioxabicyclo[5.2.2]undeca-1(9),7,10-triene-2,6-dione Chemical compound C1(C2=CC=C(C(=O)OC(=C)O1)C=C2)=O LLLVZDVNHNWSDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000132536 Cirsium Species 0.000 description 1
- 239000012670 alkaline solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- JBIROUFYLSSYDX-UHFFFAOYSA-M benzododecinium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CC1=CC=CC=C1 JBIROUFYLSSYDX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- SXPWTBGAZSPLHA-UHFFFAOYSA-M cetalkonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CC1=CC=CC=C1 SXPWTBGAZSPLHA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229960000228 cetalkonium chloride Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007859 condensation product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002270 dispersing agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910001651 emery Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000007654 immersion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001788 irregular Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002480 mineral oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010446 mineral oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- PSZYNBSKGUBXEH-UHFFFAOYSA-N naphthalene-1-sulfonic acid Chemical compound C1=CC=C2C(S(=O)(=O)O)=CC=CC2=C1 PSZYNBSKGUBXEH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004745 nonwoven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- AQHHHDLHHXJYJD-UHFFFAOYSA-N propranolol Chemical compound C1=CC=C2C(OCC(O)CNC(C)C)=CC=CC2=C1 AQHHHDLHHXJYJD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003242 quaternary ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000010186 staining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
- Spinning Methods And Devices For Manufacturing Artificial Fibers (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Description
【発明の詳細な説明】
本発明は、布帛を構成するポリエステル繊維を
分割せしめて、柔軟な風合と優れた外観ドレープ
性を有するスエード調起毛布帛を製造する方法に
関するものである。DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a suede raised fabric having a soft feel and excellent drapeability by dividing the polyester fibers constituting the fabric.
従来、１ケ以上のくびれ部を持つた横断面形状
を有する合成繊維フイラメントを、該くびれ部で
化学的又は機械的に割裂せしめ、該フイラメント
を複数の細繊度フイラメントに分割して、柔軟な
風合と優れた光沢を有する細繊度異形断面フイラ
メントを得ることが知られている（特公昭47−
23969号）。この方法では、フイラメントを完全に
分割して細繊度化することが難かしく、十分満足
しうる程度の柔軟な風合が得られず、また、外観
ドレープ性においても不十分なものしか得られな
い。 Conventionally, a synthetic fiber filament having a cross-sectional shape with one or more constrictions is split chemically or mechanically at the constriction, and the filament is divided into a plurality of fine filaments to create a flexible wind. It is known that it is possible to obtain filaments of fine fineness and irregular cross-section that have excellent gloss and gloss (Special Publication No. 47-
No. 23969). With this method, it is difficult to completely divide the filament to make it finer, and it is not possible to obtain a sufficiently flexible texture, and the appearance and drapability are also insufficient. .
本発明者らは、かかる従来方法の問題点を改良
すべく、検討を重ねた結果、化学的割裂細化処理
と起毛処理とを組み合わせることによつて、極め
て柔軟な風合と優れた外観、ドレープ性を有する
スエード調起毛布帛が得られることを見出し本発
明に到達した。 In order to improve the problems of the conventional method, the present inventors have conducted repeated studies, and found that by combining chemical splitting treatment and raising treatment, an extremely flexible texture and excellent appearance can be achieved. The present invention was achieved by discovering that a suede raised fabric having drapability can be obtained.
即ち、本発明は、１ケ以上のくびれ部を持つた
横断面形状を有するポリエステル繊維を含有する
布帛を、アルカリ水溶液で処理して、該ポリエス
テル繊維を加水分解し細化させると共に、くびれ
部の少なくとも１部で分割せしめ、次いで該布帛
の表面を起毛することを特徴とするスエード調起
毛布帛の製造法である。 That is, in the present invention, a fabric containing polyester fibers having a cross-sectional shape having one or more constrictions is treated with an alkaline aqueous solution to hydrolyze and thin the polyester fibers, and to reduce the constrictions. This is a method for producing a suede-like raised fabric, characterized in that the fabric is divided into at least one part, and then the surface of the fabric is raised.
本発明におけるポリエステル繊維としては、エ
チレンテレフタレート単位を主たる繰返し単位と
するポリエステルが好ましく、中でもポリエチレ
ンテレフタレートが特に好ましいが、第３成分と
して、イソフタル酸、５スルフオイソフタル酸、
メトオキシポリオキシエチレングリコールなどを
共重合させた共重合ポリエチレンテレフタレート
でもよい。ポリエステルの重合度は、ポリエステ
ルの種類、目的とする繊維横断面形状などに応じ
て適宜選定すべきであるが、一般に、ポリエチレ
ンテレフタレートの場合、35℃のＯ−クロロフエ
ノール溶液で測定した極限粘度〔η〕が0.4〜0.6
のものが適当である。 The polyester fiber in the present invention is preferably a polyester having ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit, and polyethylene terephthalate is particularly preferred.
Copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing methoxypolyoxyethylene glycol or the like may also be used. The degree of polymerization of polyester should be selected appropriately depending on the type of polyester, the desired fiber cross-sectional shape, etc., but in general, in the case of polyethylene terephthalate, the intrinsic viscosity measured in an O-chlorophenol solution at 35°C [ η] is 0.4 to 0.6
is appropriate.
本発明においては、１ケ以上のくびれを有する
横断面形状のポリエステル繊維を用いることが必
要である。その横断面形状の例を第１図Ａ〜Ｇに
示す。いずれも、特殊形状の口金を用いて、紡糸
することにより得られるもので、第１図Ａ〜Ｇの
繊維を得るための口金の形状を第２図Ａ〜Ｇに示
す。 In the present invention, it is necessary to use polyester fibers with a cross-sectional shape having one or more constrictions. Examples of the cross-sectional shape are shown in FIGS. 1A to 1G. All of them are obtained by spinning using specially shaped spindles, and the shapes of the spindles used to obtain the fibers shown in FIGS. 1A to 1G are shown in FIGS. 2A to 2G.
これらの特殊横断面形状のポリエステル繊維
は、長繊維又は短繊維の形で用いられ、長繊維の
場合は、仮撚加工糸、エアジエツト加工糸、スパ
ンライク加工糸等の加工糸をも含み、ステープル
フアイバーの場合は紡績糸として用いられる。こ
れらの繊維を用いて布帛を作るわけであるが、布
帛の構造については、特に限定されず公知の織編
物が用いられる。なかでも、起毛加工を容易にす
るため、３〜９枚朱子織とするのが好ましい。
又、長繊維短繊維共、不織布として使用すること
も可能である。 These polyester fibers with special cross-sectional shapes are used in the form of long fibers or short fibers, and in the case of long fibers, they include processed yarns such as false twisted yarns, air jet processed yarns, spunlike processed yarns, etc., and can also be used as staple fibers. In the case of fiber, it is used as spun yarn. A fabric is made using these fibers, and the structure of the fabric is not particularly limited, and any known woven or knitted fabric may be used. Among these, in order to facilitate the raising process, it is preferable to use 3 to 9 pieces of satin weave.
Further, both long fibers and short fibers can be used as a nonwoven fabric.
このようにして得た布帛をアルカリ水溶液で処
理して加水分解させ、ポリエステル繊維自体を細
化させると共に、くびれ部の少なくとも１部で分
割させる。 The fabric thus obtained is treated with an aqueous alkaline solution to hydrolyze it, thereby thinning the polyester fibers themselves and dividing them at at least a portion of the waist.
この場合、使用するアルカリ性物質としては水
酸化ナトリウム、水酸化カリウム、炭酸ソーダ等
をあげることができ、必要に応じてラウリルジメ
チルベンジルアンモニウムクロライド、セチルジ
メチルベンジルアンモニウムクロライド、のよう
な第４級アンモニウム塩を併用してもよい。これ
らアルカリ物質の使用してもよい。これらアルカ
リ物質の使用濃度には特に限定はなく、適用され
る繊維の種類、太さ、布帛組織加熱処理温度、断
面形状におけるくびれ部分の厚さ、所望する分割
度等に応じて適宜選定される。又、処理の方法と
しては
(1) コールドバツチ法
(2) パツド−乾燥処理法
(3) パツド−湿熱処理法
(4) 浸漬法
などが適用される。 In this case, examples of the alkaline substances used include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and sodium carbonate, and if necessary, quaternary ammonium salts such as lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and cetyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride are used. may be used together. These alkaline substances may also be used. The concentration of these alkaline substances to be used is not particularly limited, and is appropriately selected depending on the type and thickness of the fiber to be applied, the fabric structure heat treatment temperature, the thickness of the constriction in the cross-sectional shape, the desired degree of division, etc. . In addition, as a treatment method, (1) cold batch method, (2) pad-dry treatment method, (3) pad-moist heat treatment method, (4) immersion method, etc. are applied.
本発明に於ては繊維全体が溶解されて細化する
と共に繊維の断面形状におけるくびれ部分の１部
又は全部が溶解され、元の繊維よりも、細く分割
されるようアルカリ処理の条件を設定することが
極めて重要であり、そのためにアルカリ濃度、処
理温度、処理時間、処理方法などを適宜選定する
必要がある。繊維横断面くびれ部の溶解、分割の
みならず、繊維全体が溶解、細化されるため、一
層柔軟性が向上することになる。 In the present invention, the conditions of the alkali treatment are set so that the entire fiber is dissolved and thinned, and at the same time, part or all of the constricted part in the cross-sectional shape of the fiber is dissolved, and the fiber is divided into smaller pieces than the original fiber. This is extremely important, and therefore it is necessary to appropriately select the alkali concentration, treatment temperature, treatment time, treatment method, etc. Not only the constriction of the cross section of the fiber is melted and split, but the entire fiber is melted and thinned, resulting in further improvement in flexibility.
次いで、このように、アルカリ水溶液で処理さ
れて、繊維が細化した布帛の表面に起毛処理を施
す。起毛処理は、エメリー起毛機、あざみ起毛
機、針布起毛機等の公知の起毛機により行なわれ
る。この起毛処理によつて、アルカリ水溶液処理
だけでは未分割のままで残つていた繊維が完全に
分割され、均一な細繊度繊維の起毛面を有する柔
軟でドレープ性の優れたスエード調の起毛布帛が
得られる。 Next, the surface of the fabric, which has been treated with an alkaline aqueous solution and has thinned fibers, is subjected to a napping treatment. The raising treatment is carried out using a known raising machine such as an emery raising machine, a thistle raising machine, a needle cloth raising machine, etc. By this raising treatment, the fibers that remained undivided by alkaline aqueous solution treatment are completely divided, resulting in a suede-like raised fabric that is flexible and has excellent drapability with a raised surface of uniformly fine fibers. is obtained.
かくして得られた起毛布帛は、風合が極めて柔
軟で、外観ドレープ性に優れ、スエード調布帛と
して、一般外衣、内衣に広く使用することができ
る。 The thus obtained raised fabric has an extremely soft feel and excellent drapability in appearance, and can be widely used as a suede-like fabric for general outer garments and inner garments.
以下、実施例により、本発明を更に詳細に説明
する。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to Examples.
実施例
35℃オルソクロルフエノール溶液で測定した極
限粘度が0.60のポリエチレンテレフタレートを
305℃で溶融し、第２図Ｃに示す４つの主孔をス
リツトで連結したノズルを24個有する口金から紡
出し、2000ｍ／分で捲取つた。尚、ノズルの主孔
直径ｄは0.3mm、スリツト幅Ｗは0.06mm、スリツ
ト長さｌは0.15mmであつた。この紡糸原糸を80℃
の供給ローラと180℃の延伸ローラとの間で、300
ｍ／分の延伸速度で3.0倍に延伸し、延伸ローラ
上で熱処理して50de／24filのフイラメント糸を
得た。Example Polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.60 measured in an orthochlorophenol solution at 35°C was
It was melted at 305° C., spun from a nozzle having 24 nozzles with four main holes connected by slits as shown in FIG. 2C, and wound at 2000 m/min. The main hole diameter d of the nozzle was 0.3 mm, the slit width W was 0.06 mm, and the slit length l was 0.15 mm. This spun yarn was heated at 80℃.
between the supply roller and the stretching roller at 180℃, 300℃
The filament yarn was drawn 3.0 times at a drawing speed of m/min and heat treated on a drawing roller to obtain a filament yarn of 50 de/24 fil.
このフイラメントを４本合糸して、撚数
150T／ｍで撚糸したものを緯糸とし、市販のポ
リエチレンテレフタレートウーリー加工糸
（100de／24fil）を経糸として、織物密度が経70
本／インチの５枚朱子織物を作成した。 Ply these four filaments together and make the number of twists.
The weft is a yarn twisted at 150T/m, and the warp is a commercially available polyethylene terephthalate woolly processed yarn (100de/24fil), and the fabric density is 70.
A 5-ply satin fabric of 5 sheets/inch was prepared.
この織物を100℃の熱水中で30分間リラツクス
処理したのちNaoH30ｇ／を含むアルカリ水溶
液中で、98℃にて120分間処理し、次いで120℃で
３分間乾燥した。 This fabric was relaxed in hot water at 100°C for 30 minutes, then treated in an alkaline aqueous solution containing 30 g of NaoH for 120 minutes at 98°C, and then dried at 120°C for 3 minutes.
乾燥布に鉱物油を主成分とする油剤を付与し、
次いで33番針布を有する針布起毛機により、30
ｍ／分のランニングスピードで15回起毛処理を施
した。次いで、この起毛織物にピンテンター型の
ヒートセツターで170℃にて30秒間のプレセツト
を施した。その後、デユラノールブルーＧ（C.1.
No.63305.I.C.I社製分散染料の商品名）を４％（織
物重量を基準として）酢酸を0.2ml／およびナ
フタレンスルフオン酸をホルムアミドの縮合生成
物を主成分とする分散剤１ｇ／を含む水性染色
浴中で130℃60分間の染色を行つた。染色后は常
法に従つて還元洗浄を施こした。 Apply an oil agent mainly composed of mineral oil to the dry cloth,
Then, a cloth raising machine with a No. 33 cloth raises the 30
The napping process was performed 15 times at a running speed of m/min. Next, this raised fabric was preset for 30 seconds at 170°C using a pin tenter type heat setter. After that, Duranol Blue G (C.1.
Contains 4% (based on the weight of the fabric) of 0.2 ml of acetic acid and 1 g of a dispersant whose main component is a condensation product of naphthalene sulfonic acid and formamide. Staining was carried out at 130°C for 60 minutes in an aqueous dye bath. After dyeing, reduction washing was performed according to a conventional method.
得られた起毛織物はその起毛部の平均単繊維デ
ニールが0.42デニールであり表面タツチの優れた
スエード調の風合を有しドレープ性に優れたもの
であつた。 The resulting raised fabric had an average single fiber denier of 0.42 denier in the raised portion, had a suede-like texture with excellent surface touch, and had excellent drapability.
第１図は本発明で使用する合成立毛繊維の横断
面形状を示す図、第２図は第１図に示した横断面
形状の合成立毛繊維を紡糸する際に使用する口金
ノズルの平面図である。
Fig. 1 is a diagram showing the cross-sectional shape of the synthetic napped fiber used in the present invention, and Fig. 2 is a plan view of the spinneret nozzle used when spinning the synthetic napped fiber having the cross-sectional shape shown in Fig. 1. be.
Claims (1)
するポリエステル繊維を含有する布帛を、アルカ
リ水溶液で処理して、該ポリエステル繊維を加水
分解し細化させると共に、くびれ部の少なくとも
１部で分割せしめ、次いで該布帛の表面を起毛す
ることを特徴とするスエード調起毛布帛の製造
法。1. A fabric containing polyester fibers having a cross-sectional shape with one or more constrictions is treated with an alkaline aqueous solution to hydrolyze and thin the polyester fibers, and at the same time divide at least one part of the constrictions. 1. A method for producing a suede-like raised fabric, characterized in that the surface of the fabric is raised.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP6155679A JPS55158380A (en) | 1979-05-21 | 1979-05-21 | Production of suede like raised fabric |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP6155679A JPS55158380A (en) | 1979-05-21 | 1979-05-21 | Production of suede like raised fabric |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPS55158380A JPS55158380A (en) | 1980-12-09 |
| JPS621032B2 true JPS621032B2 (en) | 1987-01-10 |
Family
ID=13174493
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP6155679A Granted JPS55158380A (en) | 1979-05-21 | 1979-05-21 | Production of suede like raised fabric |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPS55158380A (en) |
Families Citing this family (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US4407889A (en) * | 1982-02-19 | 1983-10-04 | E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company | Splittable hollow polyester filament |
| JPH0694610B2 (en) * | 1985-08-12 | 1994-11-24 | 東洋紡績株式会社 | Standing blanket |
| JPS636109A (en) * | 1986-06-23 | 1988-01-12 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Polyester fiber multifilament having multilobed cross-section |
| US6589653B2 (en) | 2001-08-08 | 2003-07-08 | E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company | Filament having a quadrilobate exterior cross-section and a four-sided void |
| JP4563626B2 (en) * | 2001-09-07 | 2010-10-13 | 帝人ファイバー株式会社 | Splittable polyester fiber |
Citations (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS5593818A (en) * | 1978-12-29 | 1980-07-16 | Toray Ind Inc | Production of mixed yarn |
-
1979
- 1979-05-21 JP JP6155679A patent/JPS55158380A/en active Granted
Patent Citations (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS5593818A (en) * | 1978-12-29 | 1980-07-16 | Toray Ind Inc | Production of mixed yarn |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JPS55158380A (en) | 1980-12-09 |
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