JPH0379471B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a fabric that exhibits a glossy mottled pattern on the surface of the fabric, as if embossed, and has a surface effect similar to suede fur or chinchilla fur. Traditionally, the difference in hot water shrinkage rate has been used for the warp of textiles.
Satin woven fabrics are woven using multifilament yarns containing 10% or more composite synthetic fibers, and the fabrics are plain dyed or printed using a normal dyeing process, but the surface of the fabrics obtained in this way The fabric had a uniform appearance, and the appearance of the fabric varied considerably. In addition, in order to give surface changes, the pile length of the pile loops due to knitting is made to have different heights, or the fabric is made to have naps,
There are fabrics that have similar surface effects to the fabrics obtained in the present invention, but these fabrics are thicker and
In addition, it requires a complicated processing process and is expensive.
Moreover, it has a rough surface effect. The present invention relates to a method for producing a fabric whose surface exhibits a surface effect similar to suede fur or chinchilla fur, that is, a shiny mottled pattern effect, the warp having a hot water shrinkage rate difference of 10% or more. Using composite synthetic fiber multifilament yarn and using appropriate threads for the weft, we weave a satin weave fabric in which four or more warp threads float continuously within a complete structure, and then,
A method for producing a woven fabric exhibiting a glossy mottled pattern effect, characterized by subjecting the woven fabric to high shrinkage treatment while circulating the fabric in a rope-like manner without tension at a liquid temperature of 100°C or higher, followed by presetting, dyeing, and finishing. It is. The present invention will be explained in detail below. As the warp, a composite synthetic fiber multifilament yarn with a hot water shrinkage rate difference of 10% or more is used. If the hot water shrinkage rate difference is 10% or less, the surface effect targeted by the present application cannot be obtained. On the other hand, in order to obtain a sufficient surface effect, it is preferable that the hot water shrinkage rate difference is 20% or more. The larger the difference in hot water shrinkage, the better; however, considering the properties of the yarn and the current state of manufacturing methods, a value of 70% or less is appropriate. The difference in hot water shrinkage rate refers to the difference in hot water shrinkage rate between yarn A and yarn B, which was measured according to JISL-1096. Table 1 shows the relationship between the shrinkage rate difference in the warp aroma of the fabric and the fabric surface effect.

[Table] The synthetic fiber multifilament yarn may be any of polyester, nylon, acetate yarn, etc., and may also be bright yarn, semi-dull yarn, round cross-section yarn, or regular cross-section yarn.
Composite methods include mixed weaving, plying, twisting, and aligning using air currents and static electricity, but mixed weaving using air currents and static electricity is preferred. More preferably, at least one of the yarns is a blended yarn containing pride polyester multifilament. The blend ratio of high shrinkage yarn and low shrinkage yarn is suitably 30:70% to 70-30% (weight ratio), preferably 50%:50%. If the blending ratio of high shrinkage yarn is less than 20%, the desired effect of the present invention cannot be expected. Composite synthetic fiber multifilament yarns having a hot water shrinkage rate difference of 10% or more are arranged in all the warp threads or alternately as appropriate, but preferably in 50% or more of the warp threads. The thickness of the yarn is not particularly limited, and the desired textile surface effect of the present invention can be obtained with any thickness. The weft may be a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, a synthetic fiber multifilament processed yarn, a synthetic fiber spun yarn, or a natural fiber yarn, and the thickness of the yarn is not particularly limited. Depending on the end use,
It can be selected as appropriate. For example, skirt,
Textured yarn is suitable for thick fabrics such as dresses, and filament yarn is suitable for thin fabrics such as blouses. A satin weave with five or more layers in which four or more warps are consecutively floating within a complete weave is good for the woven fabric, but the shrinkage treatment causes the warps to rise above the weave, creating a pile-like effect, resulting in a good surface effect. In order to obtain this, it is preferable to use 8 pieces of satin with 7 pieces floating on top. On the other hand, in the case of a three-strand floating structure, the lifting of the warp yarns from the structure is small, and the fabric surface targeted in the present application cannot be obtained. Furthermore, although 12-ply satin can provide the desired textile surface in the present application, it tends to cause snagging, which remains a problem in terms of textile quality. The warp density may be that generally used in textile standards for satin fabrics. For example, when the total denier is 75 denier, 190 to 250 lines/inch is preferable. The weft density may also be that which is generally used in textile standards for satin fabrics. Next, high shrinkage treatment for imparting a surface effect, which is one of the requirements of the present invention, will be explained. The high shrinkage treatment is carried out in order to impart a shiny mottled surface effect to the surface of the fabric by making the warp yarns stand out and randomly changing the height, aroma and arrangement of these floating yarns. The high shrinkage treatment is a process unique to the present invention, and is a process that is not performed in normal dyeing processing. The high shrinkage treatment must be carried out at high temperature, without tension, while circulating the fabric in the form of a rope. The treatment in a tension-free state facilitates the shrinkage of the yarn, and in particular, due to the effect of the difference in shrinkage between the high-shrinkage yarn and the low-shrinkage yarn, the low-shrinkage yarn floats up in the form of a loop on the surface of the fabric. By circulating and rotating the rope, a larger contraction occurs as a whole of the fabric, and at the same time, the fabric becomes compressed when it accumulates, and the loop-shaped low-shrinkage yarn floats up from the surface of the fabric tissue due to the contraction. Due to the contact between the fabrics, the arrangement of the parts is randomly changed, and due to the high temperature hot water treatment,
Easily variable effects occur. In addition, in high shrinkage treatment, treatment conditions such as treatment liquid temperature, bath ratio, fabric speed, and heating time are important requirements. Table 2 shows the difference in the effect on the fabric surface at each treatment liquid temperature from 90°C to 140°C.

[Table] Table 3 also shows the differences in the effect on the fabric surface at each bath ratio when the bath ratio was varied from 1:5 to 1:40.

Table 4 Table 4 shows the differences in the effect on the fabric surface at each cloth speed when the cloth speed was varied from 100 m/min to 600 m/min.

[Table] In addition, the temperature increase time (℃/min) is 0.5℃/min to 10℃.
Table 5 shows the difference in the effect on the fabric surface depending on the heating time when the temperature was varied up to ℃/min.

【table】

[Table] As shown in Tables 2 to 5, in order to obtain the fabric surface effect targeted by the present invention, the treatment liquid temperature in the high shrinkage treatment is preferably 130°C or higher, and the liquid ratio is 1:15 or less, cloth speed is 400m/
The heating time is preferably 3°C/min or more.
For the high shrinkage treatment as described above, a small bath ratio jet dyeing machine used for ordinary dyeing can be used. Here, if high shrinkage treatment causes a large amount of shrinkage in one shrinkage treatment, defects such as shrinkage wrinkles are likely to occur in the fabric, so before performing high shrinkage treatment, a relaxation treatment is performed as a pre-shrinkage treatment. It is preferable to do so. In the relaxing treatment, the fabric is spread out using a continuous relaxer such as a "softer" and then treated with hot water in a non-tensioned state. The hot water treatment temperature is less than 100℃, and the liquid temperature in the pre-wetting tank is 60 to 70℃, which is lower than normal relaxing treatment.
It is preferable to carry out the process at a temperature of 95 to 98°C, followed by a liquid temperature in the main tank of 95 to 98°C. After that, the usual processing methods such as presetting, dyeing and finishing are carried out. The woven fabric produced as described above has a glossy mottled pattern effect on the surface of the woven fabric, giving it a leather-like surface pattern effect and texture. A wide range of fabric thicknesses can be obtained, from thick fabrics to thin spring fabrics. At the same time, a glossy mottled pattern effect can be obtained on the surface of the fabric, making it possible to develop products with high fashionability. Examples will be described below: As the warp, a polyester bright yarn with different shrinkage of 75 denier and 60 filaments was used, and as the weft, a polyester single-stage false twisted yarn with 75 denier and 36 filaments was used. is used for weaving as is without additional twisting, and the warp density is 250//
The fabric was composed of 8-ply satin weave with a weft density of 90 threads/inch. The fabric was processed under the following conditions. The relaxing treatment uses a spreading continuous relaxer. Pre-wet tank liquid temperature: 70°C Main tank liquid temperature: 95°C For high shrinkage treatment, a low bath ratio type liquid flow treatment device is used. Treatment liquid temperature x temperature 130℃ x 20 Bath ratio 1:10 Fabric speed 600m/min Heating time 3℃/min The shrinkage rate of the fabric due to this treatment is 25-26 in the warp direction
%, and 43-45% in the weft direction. After that, presetting and dyeing finishing were carried out as usual. The surface of the woven fabric had uneven luster with areas of high gloss and areas of low gloss, giving a surface effect similar to that of chinchilla fur, and was suitable for women's clothing. Comparative example: The fabric obtained by relaxing, presetting, and dyeing the same gray fabric as in Example 1 in the usual manner had no glossy mottled effect on the surface, and had a uniform appearance, with no surface changes. The surface of the fabric was significantly different from that obtained in the Examples.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Composite synthetic fiber multifilament yarn with a difference in hot water shrinkage rate of 10% or more is used as the warp, and an appropriate yarn is used as the weft, so that four or more warps are continuous in a complete structure. It is characterized by weaving a floating satin woven fabric, then subjecting the fabric to high shrinkage treatment while circulating the fabric in a rope-like manner without tension at a liquid temperature of 100°C or higher, and then presetting, dyeing, and finishing. A method for producing a fabric exhibiting a glossy mottled pattern effect. 2. The method for producing a fabric exhibiting a glossy mottled pattern effect as set forth in claim 1, wherein the composite synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is a composite polyester multibright filament yarn.