JPH0216725B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a cosmetic containing N-acyl lysine in powder form.

Conventionally, cosmetic powder raw materials include inorganic powders such as titanium dioxide, zinc white, talc, kaolin, precipitated calcium carbonate, and basic magnesium carbonate;
Alternatively, organic powders made of synthetic polymers such as nylon 12 and crosslinked polystyrene are known. These cosmetic powders have the following characteristics: (1) they cover the surface of the skin and hide spots and freckles, (2) they spread well and are smooth when applied to the skin, and (3) they are gentle on the skin. (4) Good absorption of sweat and secretions, (5) Easy to blend with other cosmetic base materials, and (6) High safety. It is required to have certain characteristics.

However, inorganic powders such as titanium dioxide have good covering power and feel when used, but are highly hydrophilic.
It is difficult to blend with oil-based base materials, and the PHH of talc is significantly higher than that of the skin, which is 5 to 6, and has a strong surface activity. It has the disadvantage of being subject to significant restrictions in terms of

On the other hand, organic powders such as nylon 12 or cross-linked polystyrene, which have recently begun to be used as new materials in the cosmetics field, are known for their fine spherical shape, which provides good slipperiness and high safety. In contrast to the advantages mentioned above, dispersibility in aqueous base materials,
It has been pointed out that it has poor absorbency for sweat, secretions, etc. and adsorption to the skin, and that it tends to cause makeup to come off.

Therefore, in recent years, various attempts have been made to improve the above-mentioned drawbacks by subjecting these powders to appropriate surface treatments.

For example, there is a method in which the surface of titanium dioxide is hydrophobized with a monoester consisting of a long-chain fatty acid and a higher alcohol to improve its dispersibility and safety in oily base materials (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 124627-1983), or a method in which the surface of talc is A method of alleviating irritation and improving skin coverage and adsorption power by coating with polyamino acids (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 1983-79315), or coating the surface of nylon 12 powder with titanium dioxide. A method of imparting hydrophilicity and improving dispersibility and adsorption of aqueous stains by
(1979)), etc.

However, even if such surface treatment, i.e., making a hydrophilic powder hydrophobic or making a hydrophobic powder hydrophilic, it is not possible to obtain a powder that satisfies the above-mentioned characteristics required for cosmetic powders. Moreover, there is an increase in cost associated with surface treatment, a decrease in workability,
At present, new problems have arisen, such as the difficulty of producing powder of constant quality at all times.

In view of the above circumstances, the present inventors have conducted intensive studies on new powder materials that can be used as cosmetic raw materials. In addition, it is poorly soluble in various solvents such as water, squalane, and liquid paraffin, does not swell, maintains a stable powder form even in these solvents, and is gentle on the skin. The present invention was completed based on the discovery that when incorporated as a component of a cosmetic raw material, a cosmetic with excellent adhesion to the skin, covering power, and absorption of secretions can be produced.

That is, the present invention relates to a cosmetic containing at least one type of N-acyl lysine represented by the following general formulas (1) to (3) in powder form.

However, in general formulas (1) and (2), RCO represents an aliphatic acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, in the above general formula (3), R′CO and R″CO each represent an aliphatic acyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms and a total of 9 to 44.) The above general formula ( 3) To obtain the indicated N〓-N〓-diacyl lysine, fatty acid chloride is dropped into an alkaline aqueous solution of lysine, so-called
A SCHOTTENBAUMANN reaction is used.
At this time, if the amino group at the α-position or ε-position is protected in advance, compounds (1) and (2) in which only the ε-position or α-position is selectively acylated can be obtained. can. Compound (1) also contains a fatty acid salt of lysine.
It can also be obtained by heating and dehydrating at a temperature of 100°C to 250°C. (Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-28610). The generated N-acyl lysine is collected by solid-liquid separation using methods such as filtration, decolorized and purified as necessary, and then pulverized to the desired particle size using a pulverizer such as a ball mill, colloid mill, or atomizer. Then, it can be made into the desired powder.

As the acyl group, an aliphatic acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms is usually used, but by changing the number of carbon atoms and the number of acyl groups, it is possible to improve the hydrophilicity, hydrophobicity, slipperiness, and adhesion of N-acyl lysine. It is possible to adjust adhesion, covering power, etc.

Examples of N-acyl lysine in the present invention include N〓-hexanoyl lysine, N〓-
Oleoyl lysine, N〓−Lauroyl lysine, N〓
-Myristoyllisine, N〓-palmitoyllisine, N〓-stearoyllisine, N〓-hexanoyllisine, N〓-oleoyllysine, N〓-lauroyllysine, N〓-myristoyllisine, N〓-
Palmitoyl lysine, N-stearoyl lysine,
N〓−lauroyl−N〓−stearoyl lysine, N〓
-hexanoyl-N〓-palmitoyl lysine, N〓
In addition to -N〓-dilauroyl lysine and the like, mixtures thereof can be mentioned. Note that these N-acyl lysines can be used in the same manner as optically active forms or cerami forms.

Conventionally, N-acyl lysine or its metal salt has been used as an amphoteric surfactant in detergents (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 1983-
97605) or as a stabilizer for halogen-containing resins such as polyvinyl chloride (Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 51-12847), but nothing has been disclosed regarding its use as a cosmetic powder. This was discovered for the first time by the present inventors.

As is clear from its structure, the N-acyl lysine of the present invention is composed of naturally derived lysine and fatty acids, and has an amide group similar to skin proteins, so it is less irritating to the skin and has excellent adsorption and covering power. shows. In addition, it has a hydrocarbon chain, which is a hydrophobic group, and an amino group and a carboxyl group, which are hydrophilic groups, in the molecule, and by changing the number of acyl groups to be introduced and the chain length, it is possible to easily combine hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups. can change the balance of For this reason, when incorporated into various cosmetics, it is difficult to disperse into oil-based base materials, that is, base materials that are compatible with oil, or water-based base materials, that is, base materials that are compatible with water, or on the skin surface of the human body. It is a revolutionary cosmetic powder that can adjust the absorption of sweat and secretions, and allows the selection of N-acyl lysine that matches the physical properties of the desired cosmetic product. I can say that. Such a powder fully exhibits the above-mentioned characteristics when used alone or in combination with other cosmetic powders. Oil-based base materials include beeswax, wood wax, spermaceti wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, cacao butter, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleic acid,
Stearic acid, lanolin, olive oil, camellia oil, cottonseed oil, castor oil, oleyl alcohol,
Animal oils such as squalane, solid paraffin,
Ceresin, microcrystalline wax, petrolatum, liquid paraffin, mineral oils and fats such as silicone oil, and isopropyl myristate,
Synthetic oils and fats such as synthetic polyether are used, while aqueous base materials include glycerin, propylene glycol,
Sorbit, polyethylene glycol, quince seed gum, tranguum gum, alginate, pectin, carboxymethylcellulose, hyaluronic acid, chitosan, polyvinyl alcohol, ethanol, isopropanol, citric acid, urea, cationized cellulose fatty acid polypeptide condensate, lactic acid, pyrrolidone, carvone Examples include acid salts and various amino acids.

Cosmetics covered by the present invention include various creams, lotions, white powders, white powders, solid white powders, body powders, baby powders, antiperspirants,
In addition to foundations, toothpaste, etc., cosmetics containing powder may be used.

A more detailed explanation will be given below using examples.

Example 1 Flour powder N-hexanoyl lysine 35.0% by weight N-palmitoyl lysine 30.0 N-N-dilauroyl lysine 35.0 Flavor Appropriate amount Using a ball mill, various N-acyl lysines were thoroughly mixed based on the above blending ratio. It was ground to prepare white powder. This white powder was excellent in safety, and also had good feel on use, good adhesion to the skin, good covering power, etc.

Example 2 Powder powder N - lauroyl lysine 40.0% by weight Talc 43.0 Kaolin 10.0 Precipitated calcium carbonate 2.0 Zinc white 2.0 Zinc stearate 2.0 Magnesium carbonate 1.0 Color/Pigment Appropriate amount Flavor Appropriate amount Using a ball mill, various types were prepared based on the above compounding ratio. The powder raw materials were thoroughly mixed and ground to prepare white powder.
This white powder had excellent adhesion to the skin and adsorption of secretions, and also had a good feel.

Example 3 Kneaded white powder N-cocoyl lysine 40.0% by weight Nylon 12 powder 20.0 Glycerin 10.0 Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate 3.0 Purified water 27.0 Coloring matter/fragrance Appropriate amount N-cocoyl lysine ground to 200 mesh or more using a Nara type grinder, Glycerin, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, and purified water were added and kneaded using an emulsifying machine to obtain white powder.

Such a white powder has good spreadability and covering power on the skin, and has the characteristics that it does not easily cause makeup to come off.

Example 4 Solid white powder N〓-stearoyl lysine 20.0% by weight N〓-stearoyl lysine 20.0 N〓-N〓-distearoyl lysine 10.0 Talc 10.0 Zinc white 10.0 Kaolin 10.0 Zinc stearate 5.0 Magnesium carbonate 5.0 Gum tragacanth aqueous solution 7.0 Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate 3.0 Coloring matter/Pigment Appropriate amount Fragrance Appropriate amount The above various powder raw materials were sufficiently mixed and ground in a ball mill, and after adding an aqueous solution of gum tragacanth and sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate as a binder, press molding was performed to obtain a solid white powder. This solid white powder was easy to mold, was less prone to cracking, and had a good feel when used.

実施例 ５ アイシヤドウN〓−ステアロイルリジン 8.0重量％ タルク 1.0 顔 料 12.0 パール剤 18.0 白色ワセリン 12.0 ラノリン誘導体 5.0 マイクロクリスタリンワツクス 15.0 スクワラン 2.0 流動パラフイン 27.0 奈良式粉砕機により、200メツシユ以上に粉砕したN〓 - The above ingredients were added to stearoyl lysine and thoroughly kneaded using an emulsifier to prepare eyelid dough. Such eye shadow powder has a characteristic that it has good adsorption to the skin and does not easily cause makeup to come off.

Example 6 Foundation lotion oil Phase stearic acid 2.5% Propylene glycol monostearate
6.0% Liquid paraffin 5.0 Water Phase purified water 53.1 Triethanolamine 1.3 Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.1 Solid phase Sodium lauryl sulfate 1.1 Bentonite 4.7 Kaolin 5.2 Colored powder raw material 11.0 N-Lauroyl lysine 10.0 Flavor Appropriate amount Solid phase components are crushed by Nara method Grind each piece into 200 mesh pieces or more using a machine. Purified water is added to this, a water phase component is added, and an oil phase component is further added using an emulsifying machine and kneaded. Such products have the characteristic of spreading smoothly onto the skin surface and facilitating subsequent makeup application.

Example 7 Cleansing cream oil Phase fluid paraffin 20.0% Beeswax 10.0 Vegetable oil 25.0 Sorbitan monostearate (Note 1) 5.0 Lanolin 3.0 N-lauroyl lysine 10.0 Water Phase polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (Note 2) 2.0 Borax 0.7 Purification Water 24.3 Flavor Appropriate amount Preservative Appropriate amount (Note 1) Arlacel 60 (Note 2) Tween 60 Put the oil phase components into an emulsifier, add water, then gradually add the water phase components and mix thoroughly. This cleansing cream was a cream that spread easily on the skin.

Example 8 All-purpose cream oil Phase Amitel LGOD 9.0% Squalane 9.0 Sperm wax 2.0 Propylene glycol monostearate 4.0 POE (20) Glyceryl monostearate 3.0 Glyceryl monostearate (self-emulsifying type)
10.0 Sorbitan Monostearate 1.5 N〓-Lauroyl Lysine 2.0 Water Phase PCA Soda (50%) 2.0 Sorbitol (70%) 4.0 Preservative 0.3 Purified Water 53.2 While stirring the oil phase components at 80℃, gradually add the water phase components. After cooling, it blends into the skin and is non-sticky.
It has a characteristic that it spreads well.

Example 9 Cold cream oil Phase beeswax 18.0% Almond oil 61.0 N - lauroyl lysine 4.0 Rose oil 1.0 Water Phase borax 1.0 Rose water 15.0 Put the oil phase ingredients into an emulsifier, and gradually add rose water to it. Emulsify. Next, add borax and mix well.

A cold cream that blends well with the skin was obtained.

Example 10 Milk lotion oil Phase fluid paraffin 31.6% Solid paraffin 4.5 Setanol 4.0 Sorbita monostearate 1.8 POE (20) Sorbita monooleate 2.8 N-Lauroyl Lysine 1.0 Water Phase PCA-triethanolamine (50%) 4.0 Purified water 50.1 Preservative 0.2 The water phase components were placed in an emulsifier and heated to 80°C, and then the oil phase components were gradually added and kneaded. Such a product had the characteristic of being able to provide refreshing, non-sticky skin to the skin.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A cosmetic comprising at least one N-acyl lysine represented by the following general formulas (1) to (3) in powder form. (However, in general formulas (1) and (2), RCO represents an aliphatic acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, in general formula (3), R′CO and R″CO respectively Indicates an aliphatic acyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms and a total of 9 to 44.)