JP6367548B2 - First agent for two-component oxidative hair dyes - Google Patents
First agent for two-component oxidative hair dyes Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP6367548B2 JP6367548B2 JP2013266074A JP2013266074A JP6367548B2 JP 6367548 B2 JP6367548 B2 JP 6367548B2 JP 2013266074 A JP2013266074 A JP 2013266074A JP 2013266074 A JP2013266074 A JP 2013266074A JP 6367548 B2 JP6367548 B2 JP 6367548B2
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- Prior art keywords
- agent
- oxidative hair
- hair dye
- hair
- mass
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 239000000118 hair dye Substances 0.000 title claims description 58
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
本発明は、毛髪を酸化染毛や脱色する際に用いる2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用の第1剤に関するものであり、特に施術時におけるアルカリ剤による刺激臭を軽減できると共に効果的な染毛や脱色を可能とする2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤に関するものである。 TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a first agent for two-component oxidative hair coloring / decoloring agent used for oxidative hair coloring and decoloring of hair, and is particularly effective in reducing the irritating odor caused by an alkaline agent during treatment. The present invention relates to a first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent that enables hair dyeing and decolorization.
2剤式酸化染毛剤は、酸化染料やアルカリ剤を主成分として含む第1剤と、過酸化水素のような酸化剤を含む第2剤とから構成されており、近年、毛髪染毛において最も一般的に用いられている。こうした2剤式酸化染毛剤は、使用時に第1剤と第2剤を混合して用いられる。また2剤式酸化脱色剤とは、第1剤に酸化染料が配合されていないもののことであり、2剤式酸化染毛剤と同様に汎用されている。以下では、2剤式の酸化染毛剤と酸化脱色剤で用いる第1剤を合わせて、「2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤」(以下、単に「第1剤」と呼ぶことがある)と呼んでいる。 The two-component oxidative hair dye is composed of a first agent containing an oxidative dye or an alkaline agent as a main component and a second agent containing an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide. Most commonly used. Such a two-component oxidative hair dye is used by mixing the first agent and the second agent at the time of use. The two-component oxidative decoloring agent is one in which no oxidative dye is blended in the first agent, and is commonly used in the same manner as the two-component oxidative hair dye. In the following, the two-component oxidative hair dye and the first agent used in the oxidative decoloring agent are combined to be referred to as “first oxidative hair dye / decoloring agent first agent” (hereinafter simply referred to as “first agent”). There are things).
2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤に用いられるアルカリ剤には、一般的にアンモニアやアルカノールアミン、炭酸塩(例えば炭酸水素アンモニウム)等が挙げられる。その中でも、アンモニアは分子量が小さいため、アルカノールアミンと比較して少ない配合量で毛髪中のメラニンを効率よく分解でき、処理後の毛髪のダメージも軽減できる利点を有する。 Examples of the alkaline agent used for the first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent generally include ammonia, alkanolamine, carbonate (for example, ammonium hydrogen carbonate), and the like. Among them, since ammonia has a small molecular weight, it has an advantage that melanin in hair can be efficiently decomposed with a smaller blending amount than alkanolamine, and damage to hair after treatment can be reduced.
近年では、アンモニアや炭酸水素アンモニウム等のアルカリ剤を処方中に配合した酸化染毛・脱色剤が多く開発されている。しかしながら、一定量以上のアンモニアや炭酸水素アンモニウムを系内に配合した場合には、刺激臭が発生するという問題がある。 In recent years, many oxidative hair dyes and depigmenting agents have been developed in which alkaline agents such as ammonia and ammonium hydrogen carbonate are blended in the formulation. However, when a certain amount or more of ammonia or ammonium hydrogen carbonate is blended in the system, there is a problem that an irritating odor is generated.
これまでにも刺激臭の低減を目的とした様々な技術が提案されている。例えば特許文献1では、アンモニアの代わりに刺激臭の少ないアルカノールアミンや無機アルカリを使用する方法が提案されている。また特許文献2では、イソパラフィンと非イオン性界面活性剤と高分子化合物を配合することにより、刺激臭を低減している。 Various techniques for reducing the irritating odor have been proposed so far. For example, Patent Document 1 proposes a method of using alkanolamine or inorganic alkali with a little irritating odor instead of ammonia. Moreover, in patent document 2, the irritation odor is reduced by mix | blending an isoparaffin, a nonionic surfactant, and a high molecular compound.
また、調製したクリームの粒子に液晶構造を形成させ、液晶構造内にアンモニア分子を閉じ込めることで、アンモニア臭の低減を可能にする技術も提案されている(例えば、特許文献3、4)。こうした技術は、近年では多くのヘアカラー製剤に汎用されている。しかしながら、こうした技術を用いても、一定以上のアンモニアや炭酸水素アンモニウムをアルカリ剤として含む場合には、これらの成分に基づく刺激臭の低減は十分なものではない。 There has also been proposed a technique that enables a reduction in ammonia odor by forming a liquid crystal structure in the prepared cream particles and confining ammonia molecules in the liquid crystal structure (for example, Patent Documents 3 and 4). In recent years, such a technique has been widely used in many hair color preparations. However, even when such a technique is used, when a certain amount of ammonia or ammonium hydrogen carbonate is contained as an alkaline agent, the reduction of the irritating odor based on these components is not sufficient.
一方、2剤式の酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤として、N−アシルアミノ酸塩とジアリルジメチル4級アンモニウム共重合物等を含有する泡状染毛剤が提案されているが、刺激臭の低減を目的とした2剤式染毛剤特有の課題や効果については、記載も示唆もされていない(特許文献5)。他方、ジラウロイルグルタミン酸リシンナトリウムについては、無機顔料等を応用した染毛剤が提案されているが、2剤式染毛剤としての記載も示唆もされていない(特許文献6)。 On the other hand, a foam hair dye containing an N-acylamino acid salt and a diallyldimethyl quaternary ammonium copolymer has been proposed as a first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent. There is no description or suggestion about problems and effects peculiar to a two-component hair dye aimed at reducing hair loss (Patent Document 5). On the other hand, for lysine sodium dilauroylglutamate, hair dyes using inorganic pigments have been proposed, but no description or suggestion as a two-part hair dye has been made (Patent Document 6).
本発明はこうした状況の下でなされたものであり、その目的は、施術時におけるアルカリ剤による刺激臭を軽減できると共に効果的な染毛と脱色を可能とする2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤を提供することにある。 The present invention has been made under such circumstances, and its object is to reduce the irritating odor caused by the alkaline agent at the time of treatment and to enable effective hair dyeing and decoloring. It is in providing the 1st agent for use.
上記目的を達成することができた本発明の2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤とは、少なくともアルカリ剤を含み、毛髪を酸化染毛または脱色する際に用いる2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤において、(a)N−ステアロイルアミノ酸塩、および(b)ノニオン性界面活性剤を含有する点に要旨を有するものである。 The first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention that has achieved the above-mentioned object is a two-component oxidative dye used at the time of oxidative hair dyeing or decoloring at least an alkali agent. The first agent for hair and depigmenting agent has a gist in that it contains (a) an N-stearoyl amino acid salt and (b) a nonionic surfactant.
本発明の2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤においては、前記(a)N−ステアロイルアミノ酸塩の含有量は、2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤全体に占める割合で5質量%以下(0質量%を含まない)であることが好ましい。 In the first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention, the content of the (a) N-stearoyl amino acid salt is the proportion of the entire first agent for two-agent oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent. Is preferably 5% by mass or less (excluding 0% by mass).
前記(a)N−ステアロイルアミノ酸塩は、N−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸ナトリウム、N−ステアロイル−L−アスパラギン酸ナトリウム、N−ステアロイル−L−サルコシンナトリウムよりなる群から選ばれる1種以上が、好ましいものとして挙げられる。 The (a) N-stearoyl amino acid salt is preferably at least one selected from the group consisting of sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, sodium N-stearoyl-L-aspartate, and sodium N-stearoyl-L-sarcosine. It is mentioned as a thing.
前記(b)ノニオン性界面活性剤は、HLB値が15以上のものであり、含有量が2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤全体に占める割合で10質量%以下(0質量%を含まない)であることが好ましい。 The nonionic surfactant (b) has an HLB value of 15 or more, and the content of the nonionic surfactant is 10% by mass or less (0% by mass) based on the total amount of the first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent. Is not included).
本発明の2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤においては、必要によって、更に(c)ジラウロイルグルタミン酸リシンナトリウムを含有することもでき、このことによってアルカリ剤による刺激臭の軽減や、効果的な染毛と脱色が更に良好なものとなる。(c)ジラウロイルグルタミン酸リシンナトリウムを含有するときの含有量は2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤全体に占める割合で5質量%以下であることが好ましい。 In the first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention, if necessary, (c) dilauroyl glutamic acid sodium lysine can also be contained, thereby reducing the irritating odor caused by the alkaline agent, Effective hair dyeing and decolorization will be even better. (C) The content of lysine sodium dilauroylglutamate is preferably 5% by mass or less as a proportion of the entire first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent.
本発明の2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤においては、必要によって、更に(d)キサンタンガムを含有することもでき、このことによって第1剤の混合性や塗布性等の操作性が向上したものとなる。(d)キサンタンガムの含有量は、2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤全体に占める割合で1質量%以下であることが好ましい。 In the first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention, (d) xanthan gum can be further contained if necessary, and this makes the operability such as mixing property and applicability of the first agent. Will be improved. (D) The content of xanthan gum is preferably 1% by mass or less in terms of the proportion of the entire first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent.
本発明の2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤においては、必要によって、更に(e)ポリアスパラギン酸ナトリウムを含有することもでき、このことによって染毛後の毛髪の保水性が向上し、コンディション(滑りや指通り等)が良好なものとなる。 The first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention may further contain (e) sodium polyaspartate, if necessary, thereby improving the water retention of the hair after hair dyeing. However, the condition (sliding, fingering, etc.) is good.
本発明によれば、少なくともアルカリ剤を含み、N−ステアロイルアミノ酸塩、およびノニオン性界面活性剤を含有させることによって、施術時の刺激臭を抑制することができ、これまでの酸化染毛・脱色剤よりも低濃度のアルカリ剤の配合量で毛髪への薬剤の浸透を促進し、効果的な染毛と脱色が可能となる2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤が実現できる。 According to the present invention, by containing at least an alkaline agent and containing an N-stearoyl amino acid salt and a nonionic surfactant, an irritating odor at the time of treatment can be suppressed. The first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent that promotes the penetration of the medicine into the hair with a blending amount of the alkaline agent at a lower concentration than the agent and enables effective hair dyeing and decolorization can be realized.
本発明者らは、上記目的に適う2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤を実現すべく、様々な角度から検討した。その結果、(a)N−ステアロイルアミノ酸塩、および(b)ノニオン性界面活性剤を含有させたものでは、上記目的が見事に達成されることを見出し、本発明を完成した。 The present inventors have studied from various angles in order to realize a first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent that meets the above-mentioned purpose. As a result, the inventors have found that the above object can be achieved brilliantly when (a) an N-stearoyl amino acid salt and (b) a nonionic surfactant are contained, thereby completing the present invention.
本発明の2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤は、少なくとも上記成分(a)および(b)を組合せて含有させたものであるが、各成分による作用について説明する。 The first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention contains at least the components (a) and (b) in combination, and the action of each component will be described.
N−ステアロイルアミノ酸塩[上記成分(a)]は、アルカリ剤による刺激臭を軽減できると共に、アルカリ剤や染料等を毛髪内部に効率良く浸透させる上で必要な成分である。こうした効果は、その含有量が増加するにつれて増大するが、より有効に発揮させるためには、0.1質量%以上(2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤全体に占める割合)含有させることが好ましい。より好ましくは0.3質量%以上である。しかしながら、その含有量が過剰になると、刺激臭の抑制効果、染色性、操作性が悪くなるので、5質量%以下とすることが好ましい。より好ましくは4質量%以下である。 The N-stearoyl amino acid salt [the above component (a)] is a component necessary for reducing the irritating odor caused by the alkaline agent and allowing the alkaline agent, dye, and the like to penetrate efficiently into the hair. These effects increase as the content increases, but in order to exhibit more effectively, 0.1% by mass or more (ratio to the entire first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent) It is preferable to make it. More preferably, it is 0.3 mass% or more. However, if the content is excessive, the effect of suppressing the irritating odor, the dyeability and the operability are deteriorated. More preferably, it is 4 mass% or less.
N−ステアロイルアミノ酸塩のアミノ酸残基としては、グルタミン酸、アスパラギン酸、グリシン、βアラニン等が挙げられる。またこれらの塩としては、ナトリウム、カリウム、リチウム、エタノールアミン、ジエタノールアミン、トリエタノールアミン等の各塩が挙げられる。ここでN−ステアロイルアミノ酸塩の具体例としては、N−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸ナトリウム、N−ステアロイル−L−アスパラギン酸ナトリウム、N−ステアロイル−L−サルコシンナトリウム、N−ステアロイル−N−メチル−βアラニンナトリウム等を挙げることができ、これらの1種以上を用いることができる。 Examples of amino acid residues of the N-stearoyl amino acid salt include glutamic acid, aspartic acid, glycine, and β-alanine. Examples of these salts include sodium, potassium, lithium, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine and the like. Here, specific examples of N-stearoyl amino acid salts include N-stearoyl-L-glutamate sodium, N-stearoyl-L-sodium aspartate, N-stearoyl-L-sarcosine sodium, N-stearoyl-N-methyl-β. Alanine sodium etc. can be mentioned and 1 or more types of these can be used.
一方、ノニオン性界面活性剤[上記成分(b)]は、上記成分(a)と同様に、アルカリ剤による刺激臭を抑えると共に、アルカリ剤や染料などを毛髪内部に効率良く浸透させる上で必要な成分である。こうした効果は、その含有量が増加するにつれて増大するが、より有効に発揮させるためには、0.5質量%以上(2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤全体に占める割合)含有させることが好ましい。より好ましくは1質量%以上である。しかしながら、ノニオン性界面活性剤の含有量が過剰になると刺激臭の抑制効果が悪くなり、第2剤との混合性も悪くなるので、10質量%以下とすることが好ましい。より好ましくは8質量%以下である。 On the other hand, the nonionic surfactant [the component (b)] is necessary for suppressing the irritating odor caused by the alkaline agent and allowing the alkaline agent or dye to efficiently penetrate into the hair, as with the component (a). Is an essential ingredient. These effects increase as the content increases, but in order to exhibit more effectively, 0.5% by mass or more (ratio to the entire first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent) It is preferable to make it. More preferably, it is 1 mass% or more. However, when the content of the nonionic surfactant is excessive, the effect of suppressing the irritating odor is deteriorated and the mixing property with the second agent is also deteriorated. Therefore, the content is preferably 10% by mass or less. More preferably, it is 8 mass% or less.
本発明で用いるノニオン性界面活性剤は、HLB値(親水−親油バランス値)が15以上のものを採用することが好ましい。このHLB値は、ノニオン性界面活性剤の親水性と親油性のバランスの尺度を数字で表したものであり(HLB:Hydrophile−Lipophile Balanceの略称)その値は1〜20の数値で示し、数値の大きいものほど親水性が大きく、小さいものほど親油性が高い。一般的にはHLB値が5以下のものを親油性ノニオン性界面活性剤、HLB値が15以上のものを親水性ノニオン性界面活性剤と呼ぶことがある。HLBの値は公知のGriffinの式から算出することができる(例えば、「香粧品科学」 朝倉書店2001年9月20日発行 第55頁)。 The nonionic surfactant used in the present invention preferably has an HLB value (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance value) of 15 or more. This HLB value is a measure of the balance between the hydrophilicity and lipophilicity of a nonionic surfactant, expressed as a number (HLB: Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance). The larger the size, the greater the hydrophilicity, and the smaller the size, the higher the lipophilicity. Generally, those having an HLB value of 5 or less are sometimes referred to as lipophilic nonionic surfactants, and those having an HLB value of 15 or more are referred to as hydrophilic nonionic surfactants. The value of HLB can be calculated from the well-known Griffin equation (for example, “Cosmetics and Science”, Asakura Shoten, September 20, 2001, page 55).
上記HLB値が15以上のノニオン性界面活性剤としては、酸化エチレン鎖(以下、「POE」と略記する場合がある)の付加モル数が20モル以上のポリオキシエチレンセチルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンステアリルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンベヘニルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンオレイルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンオクチルドデシルエーテル等を挙げることができ、その中から1種または2種以上を用いることができる。 Examples of the nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 15 or more include polyoxyethylene cetyl ether and polyoxyethylene stearyl having an added mole number of ethylene oxide chain (hereinafter sometimes abbreviated as “POE”) of 20 moles or more. Examples include ether, polyoxyethylene behenyl ether, polyoxyethylene oleyl ether, polyoxyethylene octyldodecyl ether, and the like, and one or more of them can be used.
上記のような成分(a)および(b)を組合せて配合することにより、アルカリ剤(特にアンモニアや炭酸水素アンモニウム)による刺激臭を軽減できると共に、アルカリ剤や染料等を毛髪内部に効率良く浸透させることができる。こうした効果が発揮される理由については、その全てを解明し得た訳ではないが、おそらく次のように考えることができた。即ち、(a)N−ステアロイルアミノ酸塩、および(b)ノニオン性界面活性剤を配合した組成物は、安定な会合体を形成し、系内にアルカリ剤や染料等を保持すると考えられる。そのため、空気中に刺激臭を放出せずに、毛髪へ塗布した際にアルカリ剤や染料等を効率よく毛髪中に浸透させることができるため、効果的な染色・脱色が可能になると推定される。 By combining the components (a) and (b) as described above, the irritating odor caused by the alkaline agent (especially ammonia or ammonium hydrogen carbonate) can be reduced, and the alkaline agent or dye can be efficiently penetrated into the hair. Can be made. The reason why such an effect is exerted is not completely understood, but could probably be considered as follows. That is, it is considered that a composition containing (a) an N-stearoyl amino acid salt and (b) a nonionic surfactant forms a stable aggregate and retains an alkali agent, a dye or the like in the system. Therefore, it is presumed that effective dyeing and decoloring will be possible because alkaline agents and dyes can be efficiently penetrated into the hair when applied to the hair without releasing an irritating odor into the air. .
本発明の2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤は、上記成分(a)および(b)を基本的に含むものであるが、必要によって、(c)ジラウロイルグルタミン酸リシンナトリウムを含有させることも好ましい。(c)ジラウロイルグルタミン酸リシンナトリウムを含有させることによって、アルカリ剤による刺激臭を更に軽減できると共に、アルカリ剤や染料等を毛髪内部に効率良く浸透させることができる。 The first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention basically contains the above-mentioned components (a) and (b), but if necessary, it contains (c) lysine sodium dilauroyl glutamate. Is also preferable. (C) By containing sodium lauryl dilauroyl glutamate, the irritating odor caused by the alkaline agent can be further reduced, and the alkaline agent, dye, and the like can be efficiently penetrated into the hair.
ジラウロイルグルタミン酸リシンナトリウムは、N−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸とL−リジンとの縮合物のナトリウム塩のことであり、ジェミニ型のアニオン性界面活性剤である。単一分子中に二つのラウロイル基を有する(ジェミニ型)ため、一鎖型のN−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ナトリウムなどの界面活性剤と比較すると、低濃度でもミセル形成を可能とする、高い界面活性能を有する化合物である。 Dilauroyl glutamic acid lysine sodium is a sodium salt of a condensate of N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid and L-lysine, and is a gemini-type anionic surfactant. High interface that enables micelle formation even at low concentrations compared to surfactants such as single-chain N-lauroyl-L-glutamate because it has two lauroyl groups in a single molecule (gemini type) It is a compound having active ability.
上記のような(c)ジラウロイルグルタミン酸リシンナトリウムを含有するときの含有量は、2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤全体に占める割合で5質量%以下(0質量%を含まない)であることが好ましい。この含有量が5質量%を超えると、刺激臭の低減効果、染色性および操作性が却って悪くなる。またこうした効果を有効に発揮させるためには、0.5質量%以上(2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤全体に占める割合)含有させることが好ましい。より好ましくは1質量%以上である。 The content of (c) dilauroyl glutamic acid sodium lysine as described above is 5% by mass or less (not including 0% by mass) in the proportion of the entire first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent ) Is preferable. If this content exceeds 5% by mass, the effect of reducing the irritating odor, dyeability and operability are worsened. Moreover, in order to exhibit such an effect effectively, it is preferable to contain 0.5 mass% or more (ratio to the whole 1st agent for 2 agent type oxidative hair dye and a decoloring agent). More preferably, it is 1 mass% or more.
本発明の2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤には、必要によって、(d)キサンタンガムを含有させることも有効である。(d)キサンタンガムは、天然多糖類の一種であり、多くの天然多糖類の中でも耐塩性、高温安定性、耐アルカリ性等の様々な条件下において安定性に優れた特徴を有する。 It is also effective to add (d) xanthan gum to the first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention, if necessary. (D) Xanthan gum is a kind of natural polysaccharide, and among many natural polysaccharides, it has characteristics that are excellent in stability under various conditions such as salt resistance, high-temperature stability, and alkali resistance.
(d)キサンタンガムは、キサントモナス属菌を用いてデンプン、グルコース、ショ糖等の炭水化物を醗酵させて得られた多糖類であり、醗酵後に遠心分離、ろ過などによって精製されたものを用いても良く、酵素処理によって精製されたものを用いても良い。また加熱、有機溶媒による処理を施したものを用いても良い。 (D) Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide obtained by fermenting carbohydrates such as starch, glucose, sucrose using Xanthomonas spp., And purified by centrifugation, filtration, etc. after fermentation Those purified by enzyme treatment may be used. Moreover, you may use what performed the process by a heating and an organic solvent.
(d)キサンタンガムは、水相においてゲルネットワークを形成し、アルカリ剤の刺激臭を軽減すると共に、製剤に適度な粘りを付与することができ、操作性を向上させる上で有効な成分である。こうした効果は、その含有量が増加するにつれて増大するが、より有効に発揮させるためには、0.01質量%以上(2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤全体に占める割合)含有することが好ましい。より好ましくは0.05質量%以上である。しかしながら、キサンタンガムの含有量が過剰になると粘りが出過ぎてしまい、操作性が悪くなるので、1質量%以下とすることが好ましい。より好ましくは0.8質量%以下である。 (D) Xanthan gum forms a gel network in the aqueous phase, reduces the irritating odor of the alkaline agent, can impart an appropriate viscosity to the preparation, and is an effective component for improving operability. These effects increase as the content increases, but in order to exhibit more effectively, 0.01% by mass or more (ratio to the entire first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent) It is preferable to do. More preferably, it is 0.05 mass% or more. However, if the content of xanthan gum is excessive, it becomes too viscous and the operability deteriorates, so it is preferable to make it 1% by mass or less. More preferably, it is 0.8 mass% or less.
本発明の2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤には、必要によって、(e)ポリアスパラギン酸ナトリウムを含有させることも好ましい。(e)ポリアスパラギン酸ナトリウムを配合した第1剤を用いて施術した毛髪は、毛髪の指通りが良好になる。こうした効果を発揮させるためには0.01質量%以上(2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤全体に占める割合)となるように含有させることが好ましい。より好ましくは0.1質量%以上である。しかしながら、(e)ポリアスパラギン酸ナトリウムの含有量が過剰になると、毛髪上にポリアスパラギン酸ナトリウムが過剰に付着し指通りが却って悪化するため、10質量%以下とすることが好ましい。より好ましくは8質量%以下である。 The first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention preferably contains (e) sodium polyaspartate, if necessary. (E) The hair treated with the first agent containing sodium polyaspartate has good finger passage through the hair. In order to exhibit such an effect, it is preferable to make it contain so that it may become 0.01 mass% or more (ratio to the whole 1st agent for 2 agent type oxidation hair dye and a decoloring agent). More preferably, it is 0.1 mass% or more. However, when the content of (e) sodium polyaspartate is excessive, sodium polyaspartate is excessively adhered to the hair and the finger is deteriorated. Therefore, the content is preferably 10% by mass or less. More preferably, it is 8 mass% or less.
本発明の2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤で含有させるアルカリ剤については、代表的なものとしてアンモニアや炭酸水素アンモニウム等を挙げることができ、少なくともこれらを含むときに本発明の効果が有効に発揮される。しかしながら、本発明の2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤で含有させるアルカリ剤については、アンモニアや炭酸水素アンモニウムに限らず、モノエタノールアミン、トリエタノールアミン、2−アミノ−2−メチル−1−プロパノール等のアルカノールアミンや水酸化ナトリウム、水酸化カリウム、炭酸ナトリウム、炭酸カリウム等の無機アルカリやアルギニン、リジン等の塩基性アミノ酸またはその塩類も併用できる。 As for the alkaline agent contained in the first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention, representative examples thereof include ammonia and ammonium hydrogen carbonate. The effect is exhibited effectively. However, the alkaline agent contained in the first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention is not limited to ammonia and ammonium hydrogen carbonate, but also monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl Alkanolamines such as -1-propanol, inorganic alkalis such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine or salts thereof can be used in combination.
本発明の2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤は、酸化染毛剤および脱色剤の両方を含む趣旨であるが、酸化染毛剤として用いるときに配合される酸化染料としては、例えば、パラフェニレンジアミン、トルエン−2,5−ジアミン、パラアミノフェノール、等を挙げることができる。酸化染毛剤として用いるときには、必要によって、カップラーを配合することもできる。こうしたカップラーとしては、例えば、α−ナフトール、レゾルシン、メタアミノフェノール、2,4−ジアミノフェノキシエタノール、パラアミノオルトクレゾール、5−(2−ヒドロキシエチルアミノ)−2−メチルフェノール、等を挙げることができる。また上記物質の他、「医薬部外品原料規格2006」(薬事日報社)に記載されたものを適宜用いることができる。さらに酸性染料、塩基性染料、HC染料等を配合することもできる。 The first agent for two-part oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention is intended to include both an oxidative hair dye and a decoloring agent, but as an oxidative dye blended when used as an oxidative hair dye, For example, paraphenylenediamine, toluene-2,5-diamine, paraaminophenol, etc. can be mentioned. When used as an oxidative hair dye, a coupler can be blended if necessary. Examples of such couplers include α-naphthol, resorcin, metaaminophenol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, paraamino orthocresol, 5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -2-methylphenol, and the like. In addition to the above substances, those described in "Quasi-drug raw material standard 2006" (Pharmaceutical Daily) can be used as appropriate. Furthermore, acidic dyes, basic dyes, HC dyes, and the like can be blended.
本発明の2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤は、通常含まれているような添加剤を含むものであっても良い。こうした添加剤としては、例えば保湿剤、油(脂)剤、シリコーン類、カチオン化ポリマー、ゲル化剤、キレート剤、酸化防止剤、pH調整剤、安定化剤、溶剤、消炎剤、香料、色素等を通常程度配合することができる。 The first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention may contain an additive which is usually contained. Examples of such additives include humectants, oils (fats), silicones, cationized polymers, gelling agents, chelating agents, antioxidants, pH adjusters, stabilizers, solvents, anti-inflammatory agents, perfumes, and dyes. Etc. can be normally blended.
本発明の2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤の剤型は、セタノール、セトステアリルアルコール、ステアリルアルコール等の油(脂)剤である高級アルコールを含有したクリーム剤型が最良であるが、ジェル状剤型や液状の剤型で用いることもできる。 The best dosage form of the first agent for the two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent of the present invention is a cream containing a higher alcohol which is an oil (fat) agent such as cetanol, cetostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, etc. However, it can also be used in a gel-like dosage form or a liquid dosage form.
次に、実施例によって本発明をより具体的に示すが、下記実施例は本発明を制限するものではなく、前・後記の趣旨を逸脱しない範囲で変更実施することは、全て本発明の技術的範囲に包含される。 Next, the present invention will be described more specifically by way of examples. However, the following examples are not intended to limit the present invention, and all modifications can be made without departing from the spirit of the above and following descriptions. To be included in the scope.
下記表1に示す各種配合割合で各種原料を配合して、2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第2剤(以下、単に「第2剤」と呼ぶ)を調製した。以下の実施例では、全て表1に示す第2剤を使用した。尚、表1において「POEセチルエーテル」と表記したものは、ポリオキシエチレンセチルエーテルを意味する。また、「POEセチルエーテル」の後ろの( )内の数値は酸化エチレンのmol数を表している(後記表2〜8についても同様)。 Various raw materials were blended at various blending ratios shown in Table 1 below to prepare a second agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent (hereinafter simply referred to as “second agent”). In the following examples, the second agent shown in Table 1 was used. In Table 1, “POE cetyl ether” represents polyoxyethylene cetyl ether. The numerical value in () after “POE cetyl ether” represents the number of moles of ethylene oxide (the same applies to Tables 2 to 8 below).
(実施例1)
下記表2〜7に示す各種配合割合で各種原料を配合して、2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤を調製した。この第1剤と表1に示した第2剤を用いて、下記の方法によって各項目について評価した。その結果を、下記表2〜7に併記する。
Example 1
Various raw materials were blended at various blending ratios shown in Tables 2 to 7 below to prepare a first agent for two-component oxidative hair dye / bleaching agent. Using the first agent and the second agent shown in Table 1, each item was evaluated by the following method. The results are also shown in Tables 2-7 below.
(刺激臭の評価方法)
下記表2〜7に成分組成を示した各種第1剤と、表1に示した第2剤を、1:1(質量比)となるように混合し、その混合物の臭気について専門のパネラー(20名)が官能試験を行い、その合計値を求め下記の基準により評価した。
(Evaluation method of irritating odor)
Various first agents whose component compositions are shown in Tables 2 to 7 below and the second agent shown in Table 1 are mixed so as to be 1: 1 (mass ratio), and an expert panelist regarding the odor of the mixture ( 20 persons) conducted a sensory test, and the total value was obtained and evaluated according to the following criteria.
(刺激臭の評価基準)
3点:刺激臭が認められない
2点:刺激臭が認められるが、ほとんど感じない
1点:刺激臭が認められる
(合計値の基準)
◎:50点以上60点以下
○:40点以上50点未満
△:30点以上40点未満
×:30点未満
(Evaluation criteria for irritating odors)
3 points: no irritating odors 2 points: irritating odors are observed but hardly felt 1 point: irritating odors are observed (standard of total value)
◎: 50 or more and 60 or less ○: 40 or more and less than 50 △: 30 or more and less than 40 × ×: less than 30
(染色の評価方法I)
下記表2〜7に成分組成を示した第1剤と、表1に示した第2剤を、1:1(質量比)となるように混合したものを、化学的処理(酸化染毛・脱色処理等)を受けていない人由来の毛髪の毛束(10cm、1.0g、100%白髪毛)に塗布し、35℃、30分間放置した。次いで、水洗、ラウリル硫酸トリエタノールアミン10%水溶液で洗浄した後風乾させた。この段階で、専門のパネラー(10名)により毛束の染色の程度を目視にて観察し、その合計値を求め下記の基準によって評価した。毛束が染まる度合いによって、うすい茶色から濃い茶色に変化する。
(Dyeing Evaluation Method I)
The chemical composition (oxidative hair dyeing and hair-dyeing) is obtained by mixing the first agent whose component composition is shown in Tables 2 to 7 below and the second agent shown in Table 1 so as to be 1: 1 (mass ratio). It was applied to a hair bundle (10 cm, 1.0 g, 100% gray hair) derived from a person who had not been subjected to decoloring treatment, and allowed to stand at 35 ° C. for 30 minutes. Subsequently, it was washed with water, washed with a 10% aqueous solution of triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, and then air-dried. At this stage, the degree of dyeing of the hair bundle was visually observed by a professional panelist (10 persons), and the total value was obtained and evaluated according to the following criteria. It changes from light brown to dark brown depending on the degree to which the hair bundle is dyed.
(染色の評価基準I)
3点:優れた染色性(濃く染まる)
2点:良い染色性(若干染まりがうすい)
1点:悪い染色性(染まりがうすい)
(合計値の基準)
◎:25点以上30点以下
○:20点以上25点未満
△:15点以上20点未満
×:15点未満
(Evaluation criteria I for staining)
3 points: Excellent dyeability (dye deeply)
2 points: good dyeability (slight dyeing is light)
1 point: Poor dyeability (light dyeing)
(Total value standard)
◎: 25 or more and 30 or less ○: 20 or more and less than 25 △: 15 or more and less than 20 × ×: less than 15
(染色の評価方法II)
下記表2〜7に成分組成を示した第1剤と、表1に示した第2剤を、1:1(質量比)となるように混合したものを、化学的処理(酸化染毛・脱色処理等)を受けていない人由来の毛髪の毛束(10cm、1.0g、100%白髪毛)に塗布し、35℃、30分間放置した。次いで、水洗、ラウリル硫酸トリエタノールアミン10%水溶液で洗浄した後風乾させた。
(Dyeing evaluation method II)
The chemical composition (oxidative hair dyeing and hair-dyeing) is obtained by mixing the first agent whose component composition is shown in Tables 2 to 7 below and the second agent shown in Table 1 so as to be 1: 1 (mass ratio). It was applied to a hair bundle (10 cm, 1.0 g, 100% gray hair) derived from a person who had not undergone decoloring treatment, and allowed to stand at 35 ° C. for 30 minutes. Subsequently, it was washed with water, washed with a 10% aqueous solution of triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, and then air-dried.
上記処理を行った毛束のL*、a*、b*を色差計(日本電色工業株式会社製、「Spectro color Meter SE2000」)にて測定し、L*値を比較することにより酸化染毛剤(茶色)の染色の度合いを下記の基準によって評価した。L*値が小さいほど染色性が高く濃い色であることを示す。 L * , a * , and b * of the hair bundle subjected to the above treatment are measured with a color difference meter (manufactured by Nippon Denshoku Industries Co., Ltd., “Spectro color Meter SE2000”), and oxidative dyeing is performed by comparing the L * values. The degree of dyeing of the hair agent (brown) was evaluated according to the following criteria. The smaller the L * value, the higher the dyeability and the darker the color.
◎:L*値 24.00未満
○:L*値 24.00以上、24.50未満
△:L*値 24.50以上、25.00未満
×:L*値 25.00以上
◎: L * value less than 24.00 ○: L * value 24.00 or more, less than 24.50 Δ: L * value 24.50 or more, less than 25.00 ×: L * value 25.00 or more
(操作性の評価方法)
下記表7に成分組成を示した第1剤と、表1に示した第2剤を1:1(質量比)で混合し、その混合物を毛髪に塗布する際の毛髪への塗布性について専門のパネラー(10名)が官能試験を行い、その合計値を求め下記の基準により評価した。
(Evaluation method for operability)
Specializing in applicability to the hair when the first agent whose composition is shown in Table 7 below and the second agent shown in Table 1 are mixed 1: 1 (mass ratio) and the mixture is applied to the hair. Panelists (10 persons) conducted a sensory test, and the total value was obtained and evaluated according to the following criteria.
(操作性の評価基準)
3点:優れた塗布性(塗布しやすい)
2点:適度な塗布性(適度に塗布しやすい)
1点:悪い塗布性(塗布しにくい)
(合計値の基準)
◎:25点以上30点以下
○:20点以上25点未満
△:15点以上20点未満
×:15点未満
(Evaluation criteria for operability)
3 points: Excellent applicability (easy to apply)
2 points: moderate applicability (easy to apply moderately)
1 point: Poor applicability (hard to apply)
(Total value standard)
◎: 25 or more and 30 or less ○: 20 or more and less than 25 △: 15 or more and less than 20 × ×: less than 15
表2の処方例1〜4は、成分(a)〜(c)の配合の有無や配合量、またはその他の成分に置き換えた場合の機能性について夫々評価したものである。 Formulation examples 1 to 4 in Table 2 are evaluated for the presence or absence of the components (a) to (c), the blending amount, or the functionality when replaced with other components.
表2の処方例1〜3は、成分(a)、(b)の配合有無に関して評価した結果である。これより成分(a)、(b)を配合した場合(処方例3)にのみ刺激臭の低減効果や染色性が良好なものとなった。これは、(a)N−ステアロイルアミノ酸塩および(b)ノニオン性界面活性剤を配合することによって、ヘアカラーのようなアルカリ剤や染料などの塩類を多く含む環境下においても安定な会合体を形成できるためであると考える。 Prescription Examples 1 to 3 in Table 2 are the results of evaluating the presence or absence of the components (a) and (b). From this, only when the components (a) and (b) were blended (Formulation Example 3), the effect of reducing the irritating odor and the dyeability were good. This is because, by blending (a) N-stearoyl amino acid salt and (b) nonionic surfactant, a stable aggregate can be obtained even in an environment containing a large amount of salts such as alkaline agents and dyes such as hair color. I think it is because it can be formed.
また、(c)ジラウロイルグルタミン酸リシンナトリウムを配合した場合(処方例4)、刺激臭の低減効果や染色性が若干ではあるものの更に良好な結果となることが分かった。これは、ジラウロイルグルタミン酸リシンナトリウムを添加することで、浸透性を向上できるだけでなく、上述した会合体をより安定化できるためと考える。 In addition, it was found that when (c) dilauroyl glutamic acid sodium lysine was blended (Formulation Example 4), although the effect of reducing the irritating odor and the dyeability were slight, even better results were obtained. This is considered to be because the addition of lysine sodium dilauroylglutamate can not only improve the permeability but also stabilize the above-mentioned aggregate.
表3の処方例5〜13は、成分(a)について、その他のイオン性(両性)界面活性剤を組み合わせた場合における性能について評価した結果である。種々のイオン性(両性)界面活性剤の中でN−ステアロイル基を有するアミノ酸ナトリウム塩を用いたもの(処方例5、6)において、刺激性、染色性I、染色性II、の各評価とも良好な結果が認められた。また、同じアミノ酸塩でもその付加しているアルキル基が異なるN−ラウロイル−L−アスパラギン酸ナトリウム(処方例7)やN−ヤシ油脂肪酸アシル−L−グルタミン酸ナトリウム(処方例8)を用いた場合は刺激性、染色性I、染色性II、の評価が悪くなり、一般的に用いられるアニオン性界面活性剤(処方例9、10)、両性界面活性剤(処方例11、12)やカチオン性界面活性剤(処方例13)でも同様に評価結果が悪くなった。このことは、成分(a)が分子中にアミノ酸塩とN−ステアロイル基を有していることが安定な会合体を形成するために重要な因子になっていることが分かった。 Formulation examples 5 to 13 in Table 3 are the results of evaluating the performance of the component (a) when other ionic (amphoteric) surfactants are combined. In various ionic (amphoteric) surfactants using an amino acid sodium salt having an N-stearoyl group (formulation examples 5 and 6), each evaluation of irritation, dyeability I and dyeability II Good results were observed. In addition, when N-lauroyl-L-aspartate sodium (formulation example 7) or N-coconut oil fatty acid acyl-L-glutamate sodium (formulation example 8) is used, even in the same amino acid salt, but the added alkyl group is different The evaluation of irritation, dyeability I and dyeability II is poor, and generally used anionic surfactants (formulation examples 9 and 10), amphoteric surfactants (formulation examples 11 and 12) and cationic properties are used. Similarly, the evaluation results for the surfactant (Formulation Example 13) also deteriorated. This indicates that the component (a) having an amino acid salt and an N-stearoyl group in the molecule is an important factor for forming a stable aggregate.
表4、5の処方例3および処方例14〜27は、成分(b)についてHLBの異なるノニオン性界面活性剤を組み合わせた場合について評価したものである。ノニオン性界面活性剤の中でもHLBが15以上の親水性ノニオン性界面活性剤を用いたもの(処方例3、15、16、18)の方が、HLBが5以下の親油性ノニオン性界面活性剤を用いたもの(処方例19〜22)に比較して、良好な評価結果が認められた。これに関しても、N−ステアロイル−L−アミノ酸塩との組み合わせにおいて親油性ノニオン性界面活性剤よりも親水性界面活性剤の方が良い会合体を形成するためと考える。 Formulation Example 3 and Formulation Examples 14 to 27 in Tables 4 and 5 evaluate the case where a nonionic surfactant having a different HLB is combined for component (b). Among the nonionic surfactants, those using a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 15 or more (formulation examples 3, 15, 16, and 18) are lipophilic nonionic surfactants having an HLB of 5 or less. As compared with those using the formula (Prescription Examples 19 to 22), good evaluation results were observed. Also in this regard, it is considered that the hydrophilic surfactant forms a better aggregate than the lipophilic nonionic surfactant in combination with the N-stearoyl-L-amino acid salt.
また、親水性ノニオン性界面活性剤を2種類組み合わせた場合(処方例23、25〜27)および親油性ノニオン性界面活性剤と親水性ノニオン性界面活性剤とを組み合わせ場合(処方例24)においても、HLB値が15以上のノニオン性界面活性剤が配合されることにより良好な評価結果を示した(表5)。 In the case where two types of hydrophilic nonionic surfactants are combined (formulation example 23, 25 to 27) and the case where a lipophilic nonionic surfactant and a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant are combined (formulation example 24). Moreover, the favorable evaluation result was shown by mix | blending nonionic surfactant whose HLB value is 15 or more (Table 5).
表6の処方例3および処方例28〜33は、成分(a)および(b)の配合量が性能に及ぼす影響について評価した結果である。これより、(a)N−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸ナトリウムは、0.3質量%程度配合すると最も効果的であることが分かった(処方例29)。また、5質量%以上になると若干性能が劣る結果となった(処方例30)。(b)POEセチルエーテルは1質量%程度が最も良好な結果を示すが(処方例32)、10質量%配合すると性能が悪くなる傾向を示した(処方例33)。 Formulation Example 3 and Formulation Examples 28 to 33 in Table 6 are the results of evaluating the influence of the compounding amounts of components (a) and (b) on the performance. From this, it was found that (a) sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate is most effective when incorporated in an amount of about 0.3% by mass (formulation example 29). Moreover, when it became 5 mass% or more, the result was a little inferior (prescription example 30). (B) About 1% by mass of POE cetyl ether shows the best results (Formulation Example 32), but when 10% by mass is blended, the performance tends to deteriorate (Formulation Example 33).
表7の処方例34〜36は、成分(a)および(b)に加えて(d)キサンタンガムとその他の種類の増粘剤を配合した場合の性能について評価したものである。この結果から、(d)キサンタンガムをこの系に配合した場合、最も優れた操作性が得られることが分かった。これは、この処方系で最も機能を発揮できるためと考える。 Formulation examples 34 to 36 in Table 7 evaluate the performance when (d) xanthan gum and other types of thickeners are blended in addition to components (a) and (b). From this result, it was found that the most excellent operability was obtained when (d) xanthan gum was added to this system. This is considered to be because the function can be exhibited most in this prescription system.
表7の処方例37〜39は、(d)キサンタンガムの配合量が性能に及ぼす影響について検討したものである。これより、(d)キサンタンガムを0.05質量%以上配合することによって良い結果が得られ(処方例38)、1質量%配合すると逆に性能が劣るものとなった(処方例39)。 Formulation examples 37 to 39 in Table 7 examine the influence of the amount of (d) xanthan gum on the performance. From this, a good result was obtained by blending 0.05% by mass or more of (d) xanthan gum (Formulation Example 38), and when 1% by mass was blended, the performance was inferior (Formulation Example 39).
(実施例2)
酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤における染毛後の毛髪に与えるダメージと感触付与に関して、「染毛後の損傷度合(毛髪の破断強度)」、「染毛後の滑り(毛髪の摩擦係数)」、「染毛後の保湿感(毛髪水分率)」を測定することで評価した。
(Example 2)
Regarding the damage and feel imparted to hair after hair dyeing in the first agent for oxidative hair coloring / decoloring agent, “damage after hair dyeing (hair breaking strength)”, “slip after hair dyeing (coefficient of friction of hair) ) "," Moisturizing feeling after hair dyeing (hair moisture content) ".
下記表8に示す配合割合で各種原料を配合して、酸化染毛剤用第1剤を調整した。この第1剤と、表1に示した第2剤を用いて、下記の方法によって各項目について評価した。その結果を、下記表8に併記する。 Various raw materials were blended at the blending ratios shown in Table 8 below to prepare the first agent for oxidative hair dye. Using the first agent and the second agent shown in Table 1, each item was evaluated by the following method. The results are also shown in Table 8 below.
(染毛後の損傷度合(毛髪の破断強度)の評価方法)
下記表8に示した各種第1剤と、前記表1に示した第2剤を、1:1(質量比)となるように混合したものを、化学的処理(酸化染毛・脱色処理等)を受けていないヒト由来の毛髪の毛束(15cm、0.2g)に0.2g塗布した。その後35℃にて30分間放置し、ラウリル硫酸トリエタノールアミン10%水溶液で洗浄した。この一連の操作を5回行い、得られた処理毛髪から各試料毛髪を任意に選び、「毛髪直径計測システム」(カトーテック株式会社製)により毛髪の直径[長径(mm)および短径(mm)]を計測し、毛髪の横断面(mm2)を下記(1)式より求めた。次に卓上材料試験機[テンシロンSTA−1150](株式会社オリエンテック製)を用いて、上記試料毛髪の水中における引張り破断値(cN)の測定を行った。その後横断面(mm2)当たりの引張り破断値(cN)を算出することによって、破断強度(cN/mm2)を求めた(n=10)。このときの評価基準は下記の通りである。
横断面(mm2)=(π/4)×長径(mm)×短径(mm) …(1)
(Evaluation method of the degree of damage after hair dyeing (breaking strength of hair))
Chemical treatment (oxidative hair dyeing / decoloration treatment, etc.) obtained by mixing various first agents shown in Table 8 below and the second agent shown in Table 1 so as to be 1: 1 (mass ratio) ) 0.2 g was applied to a hair bundle (15 cm, 0.2 g) of human-derived hair that did not receive the above. Thereafter, the mixture was allowed to stand at 35 ° C. for 30 minutes and washed with a 10% aqueous solution of triethanolamine lauryl sulfate. This series of operations is performed five times, and each sample hair is arbitrarily selected from the obtained treated hairs, and the hair diameter [major axis (mm) and minor axis (mm) is measured by “Hair Diameter Measurement System” (manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.). )] Was measured, and the cross section (mm 2 ) of the hair was determined from the following formula (1). Next, the tensile break value (cN) of the sample hair in water was measured using a tabletop material testing machine [Tensilon STA-1150] (manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd.). Thereafter, the tensile strength at break (cN / mm 2 ) per cross section (mm 2 ) was calculated to obtain the breaking strength (cN / mm 2 ) (n = 10). The evaluation criteria at this time are as follows.
Cross section (mm 2 ) = (π / 4) × major axis (mm) × minor axis (mm) (1)
(毛髪損傷度合いの評価基準)
◎:毛髪の破断強度が1.70×104cN/mm2以上
○:毛髪の破断強度が1.65×104cN/mm2以上、1.70×104cN/mm2未満
△:毛髪の破断強度が1.60×104cN/mm2以上、1.65×104cN/mm2未満
×:毛髪の破断強度が1.60×104cN/mm2未満
(Evaluation criteria for hair damage)
A: The breaking strength of the hair is 1.70 × 10 4 cN / mm 2 or more. ○: The breaking strength of the hair is 1.65 × 10 4 cN / mm 2 or more and less than 1.70 × 10 4 cN / mm 2 Δ: Hair breaking strength of 1.60 × 10 4 cN / mm 2 or more, less than 1.65 × 10 4 cN / mm 2 ×: Hair breaking strength of less than 1.60 × 10 4 cN / mm 2
(染毛後の滑り(毛髪の摩擦係数)の評価方法)
「染毛後の滑り」は、染毛後の毛髪の摩擦係数を測定することで評価した。摩擦係数は、化学的処理を受けていない毛髪(10cm、1g)に破断強度測定で行った染毛処理を2回施し、その後ラウリル硫酸トリエタノールアミン10%水溶液を用いて洗浄後、湿時における処理毛髪の摩擦係数μを測定した。尚測定に用いた諸条件を下記に記載する。
(1)初期値設定:初期値の測定は同特性の毛束を選択するために行った。
(2)毛髪の調湿:測定用毛束を20℃、湿度60%で24時間以上調湿した。
(3)測定機器:測定には、摩擦感テスター「KES−SE」(カトーテック株式会社製)を用いた。
(4)測定は、測定感度:H、摩擦静荷重:50gf、センサー:シリコンタイプの条件にて行った。走査は、順方向(根元からの毛束)にて行った。MIU値に係数0.1を掛け、摩擦係数(μ)を測定した。
(Evaluation method of slip after hair dyeing (coefficient of friction of hair))
“Slip after hair dyeing” was evaluated by measuring the friction coefficient of hair after hair dyeing. The coefficient of friction was determined by subjecting hair (10 cm, 1 g) not subjected to chemical treatment to hair dyeing treatment performed by measuring the breaking strength twice, and then washing with a 10% aqueous solution of triethanolamine lauryl sulfate and then wet. The friction coefficient μ of the treated hair was measured. Various conditions used for the measurement are described below.
(1) Initial value setting: The initial value was measured in order to select a hair bundle having the same characteristics.
(2) Humidity adjustment of hair: The hair bundle for measurement was conditioned at 20 ° C. and 60% humidity for 24 hours or more.
(3) Measuring instrument: For the measurement, a friction tester “KES-SE” (manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.) was used.
(4) Measurement was performed under the conditions of measurement sensitivity: H, frictional static load: 50 gf, sensor: silicon type. Scanning was performed in the forward direction (hair bundle from the root). The coefficient of friction (μ) was measured by multiplying the MIU value by a coefficient of 0.1.
(染毛後の滑りの評価基準)
◎:摩擦係数μが0.50未満
○:摩擦係数μが0.50以上、0.60未満
△:摩擦係数μが0.60以上、0.70未満
×:摩擦係数μが0.70以上
(Evaluation criteria for slip after hair dyeing)
A: Friction coefficient μ is less than 0.50 B: Friction coefficient μ is 0.50 or more and less than 0.60 Δ: Friction coefficient μ is 0.60 or more and less than 0.70 ×: Friction coefficient μ is 0.70 or more
(染毛後の保湿感(毛髪水分率)の評価方法)
染毛後の保湿感は、染毛後の毛髪水分率を測定することで評価した。毛髪水分率測定は、下記表8に成分組成を示した第1剤と、前記表1に示した第2剤を、1:1(質量比)となるように混合したものを、化学的処理を受けていない未処理毛で20cm、0.25gの毛束に塗布した。その後、35℃にて30分間静置し、ラウリル硫酸トリエタノールアミン10%水溶液で洗浄した後風乾させた。この操作を5回繰り返し、20℃、湿度60%で24時間静置し調湿した毛髪を水分率測定毛髪とした。
(Method for evaluating moisturizing feeling after hair dyeing (hair moisture content))
The moisturizing feeling after dyeing was evaluated by measuring the moisture content of the hair after dyeing. The moisture content of the hair is measured by chemically treating the first agent whose component composition is shown in Table 8 below and the second agent shown in Table 1 so as to be 1: 1 (mass ratio). Untreated hair that had not been applied was applied to a hair bundle of 20 cm and 0.25 g. Thereafter, the mixture was allowed to stand at 35 ° C. for 30 minutes, washed with a 10% aqueous solution of triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, and then air-dried. This operation was repeated 5 times, and the hair that had been allowed to stand for 24 hours at 20 ° C. and 60% humidity was conditioned and used as moisture measuring hair.
(毛髪水分率測定)
毛髪水分率の計測には、カールフィッシャー水分測定装置(ダイアンインスツルメント製)を用いた。上記の測定毛髪を、カールフィッシャー水分測定装置の付属品である水分気化装置を用いて200℃で10分間加温し、毛髪内水分を蒸散させた。その後電量滴定法により蒸散した水分の定量を行い下記の式から毛髪水分率を算出した。
水分率(%)=水分量(mg)/毛髪質量(mg)×100
但し、毛髪質量:投入前質量−投入後質量
(Hair moisture measurement)
A Karl Fischer moisture measuring device (manufactured by Diane Instruments) was used to measure the hair moisture content. The measured hair was heated at 200 ° C. for 10 minutes using a moisture vaporizer that is an accessory of the Karl Fischer moisture measuring device to evaporate moisture in the hair. Thereafter, the amount of water evaporated by coulometric titration was quantified, and the moisture content of the hair was calculated from the following formula.
Moisture content (%) = water content (mg) / hair mass (mg) × 100
However, hair mass: mass before charging-mass after charging
(毛髪の保湿感の評価基準)
◎:毛髪水分率が14.0%以上
○:毛髪水分率が13.5%以上、14.0%未満
△:毛髪水分率が13.0%以上、13.5%未満
×:毛髪水分率が13.0%未満
(Evaluation criteria for hair moisturizing feeling)
A: Hair moisture percentage is 14.0% or more. O: Hair moisture percentage is 13.5% or more and less than 14.0%. Δ: Hair moisture percentage is 13.0% or more and less than 13.5%. Is less than 13.0%
表8の処方例34および処方例40〜42から明らかなように、成分(a)、(b)および(d)を配合したもの(処方例34、40)は、配合していないもの(処方例41)や、カチオン性高分子を配合したもの(処方例42)よりも、染毛後の毛髪強度低下を抑制でき、水分量も良好な結果となった。これは、成分(a)のN−ステアロイル−L−グルタミン酸ナトリウムが界面活性剤としての働くだけではなく、アミノ酸由来のコンディショニング成分としても作用するためと考える。また(e)ポリアスパラギン酸ナトリウムを配合するとより摩擦係数が低下し、滑りが向上することが分かった。これは、ポリアスパラギン酸ナトリウムが染毛後の毛髪表面に被膜を形成したためであると考えられた。 As is clear from Formulation Example 34 and Formulation Examples 40 to 42 in Table 8, the compounds (prescription examples 34 and 40) in which the components (a), (b) and (d) are blended are not blended (prescription) Compared to Example 41) and those containing a cationic polymer (Formulation Example 42), it was possible to suppress a reduction in hair strength after hair dyeing, and the water content was also good. This is considered because the component (a) sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate not only acts as a surfactant but also acts as a conditioning component derived from amino acids. In addition, it was found that when (e) sodium polyaspartate was added, the friction coefficient was further reduced and the slip was improved. This was considered to be because sodium polyaspartate formed a film on the hair surface after dyeing.
Claims (9)
(a)N−ステアロイルアミノ酸塩、および(b)ノニオン性界面活性剤を含有すると共に、
前記(a)N−ステアロイルアミノ酸塩の含有量が、2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤全体に占める割合で0.1質量%以上であることを特徴とする2剤式酸化染毛・脱色剤用第1剤
(但し、下記組成の一剤を除く;
セトステアリルアルコール:3%、
ステアリルアルコール:3%、
パラフィンワックス115°F:3.1%、
イソステアリン酸イソプロピル:2%、
N−ヤシ油脂肪酸アシルグルタミン酸トリエタノールアミン:9%、
ステアリン酸グリセリル:2.2%、
POE(40)セチルエーテル:1.7%、
ジプロピレングリコール:1.3%、
アンモニア水(28%):8.6%、
ヒドロキシエタンジホスホン酸(60%):0.3%、
精製水:残量
合計:100%)。 In the first agent for two-component oxidative hair coloring / decoloring agent, which contains at least one of ammonia water and ammonium hydrogen carbonate as an alkaline agent , and is used for oxidative hair coloring or decoloring hair,
Containing (a) an N-stearoyl amino acid salt, and (b) a nonionic surfactant ,
Content of said (a) N-stearoyl amino acid salt is 0.1 mass% or more in the ratio which occupies for the whole 1st agent for two-component oxidative hair dye and decoloring agent, The two-component oxidative dyeing characterized by the above-mentioned First agent for hair and depigmenting agent (excluding one agent of the following composition;
Cetostearyl alcohol: 3%
Stearyl alcohol: 3%
Paraffin wax 115 ° F .: 3.1%
Isopropyl isostearate: 2%
N-coconut oil fatty acid acyl glutamic acid triethanolamine: 9%
Glyceryl stearate: 2.2%
POE (40) cetyl ether: 1.7%,
Dipropylene glycol: 1.3%
Aqueous ammonia (28%): 8.6%
Hydroxyethane diphosphonic acid (60%): 0.3%,
Purified water: Total remaining amount: 100%).
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CN103079532B (en) * | 2010-08-31 | 2015-03-25 | 花王株式会社 | Two-liquid type foam hair dye |
JP5824763B2 (en) * | 2010-11-18 | 2015-12-02 | 株式会社マンダム | Decoloring agent or oxidative hair dye, and method for decoloring or dyeing hair |
JP2012144580A (en) * | 2012-05-08 | 2012-08-02 | Asahi Kasei Chemicals Corp | Oil film-forming emulsified composition |
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