JP5891029B2 - Post-treatment agent for hair dyeing and hair treatment method - Google Patents
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本発明は、酸化染毛剤によって毛髪を処理(染毛)した後に、毛髪を処理するために用いられる染毛用後処理剤、およびこうした染毛用後処理剤を用いて毛髪を処理する方法に関するものであり、特に酸化染毛剤によって毛髪を処理(染毛)した後の毛髪中の残留アルカリや残留過酸化水素を効果的に除去することによって、染毛処理後の毛髪の損傷を防止し、しかも処理後の毛髪のコンディションを整え、毛髪への染料の定着を良くすることのできる技術に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a post-treatment agent for hair dyeing used for treating hair after treatment (hair dyeing) with an oxidative hair dye, and a method of treating hair using such post-treatment agent for hair dyeing. In particular, it effectively removes residual alkali and residual hydrogen peroxide in hair after it has been treated (dyed) with an oxidative hair dye to prevent damage to hair after hair dyeing. In addition, the present invention relates to a technique capable of adjusting the condition of the hair after treatment and improving the fixing of the dye to the hair.
酸化染毛剤による毛髪の処理では、染毛後に薬剤の影響によって、毛髪にアルカリや過酸化水素が残留することが知られている。これらのアルカリや過酸化水素は、毛髪の損傷を招くことになる。このため、それらの成分を取り除く技術、若しくは染毛後の後処理剤として、或る種の酸と緩衝作用を付与するための塩(pH緩衝剤)とを組み合わせた残留アルカリ除去剤や、カタラーゼ、亜硫酸塩等の酵素や還元剤を利用した過酸化水素除去剤などの開発が行われている(例えば特許文献1〜4)。 In the treatment of hair with an oxidative hair dye, it is known that alkali and hydrogen peroxide remain in the hair due to the influence of the drug after hair dyeing. These alkalis and hydrogen peroxide cause hair damage. For this reason, a residual alkali removing agent that combines a certain acid and a salt (pH buffering agent) for imparting a buffering effect as a technique for removing these components, or a post-treatment agent after hair dyeing, or catalase In addition, hydrogen peroxide removing agents using enzymes such as sulfites and reducing agents have been developed (for example, Patent Documents 1 to 4).
しかし、これまでの残留アルカリ除去剤や残留過酸化水素除去剤では、染毛処理後の毛髪の変色や、手触り感が悪くなる、安定性が悪い、更には除去機能が十分でないという問題がある。 However, the conventional residual alkali remover and residual hydrogen peroxide remover have problems such as hair discoloration after hair dyeing treatment, feeling of touch, poor stability, and insufficient removal function. .
また残留アルカリ除去や残留過酸化水素除去を、後処理工程として個別に行った場合には、夫々の処理工程を行うたびに水洗する必要がある。そのため、後処理工程が複雑化すると共に、水洗回数が増えることによって、毛髪からの染料の流出(退色)に繋がるといった問題もある。こうしたことから、染毛処理後に残留アルカリや残留過酸化水素を効果的に除去すると共に、施術後の毛髪の手触り感も良好で、しかも後処理工程を複雑化しないような染毛用後処理剤の実現が望まれている。 Further, when residual alkali removal or residual hydrogen peroxide removal is individually performed as a post-treatment process, it is necessary to wash with water each time each treatment process is performed. For this reason, there are problems that the post-treatment process becomes complicated and the number of washings increases, leading to the outflow (discoloration) of the dye from the hair. Therefore, after treatment for hair dyeing, it effectively removes residual alkali and residual hydrogen peroxide, has a good feel on the hair after treatment, and does not complicate the post-treatment process. Realization of is desired.
本発明はこうした状況の下でなされたものであって、その目的は、酸化染毛剤による処理後の毛髪中の残留アルカリや残留過酸化水素を効果的に除去することによって、毛髪の損傷を防止し、しかも染毛後の毛髪のコンディションを整え、毛髪への染料の定着を良くすることのできる染毛用後処理剤、およびこうした染毛用後処理剤を用いて毛髪を処理するための有用な方法を提供することにある。 The present invention has been made under these circumstances, and its purpose is to effectively remove residual alkali and residual hydrogen peroxide in hair after treatment with an oxidative hair dye, thereby preventing hair damage. A post-treatment agent for hair dyeing that can prevent, condition the hair after hair dyeing, and improve the fixing of the dye to the hair, and for treating hair using such a post-treatment agent for hair dyeing It is to provide a useful method.
上記目的を達成することのできた本発明の染毛用後処理剤とは、酸化染毛剤で処理した後の毛髪を処理するために用いる染毛用後処理剤であって、(a)乳酸、(b)リン酸水素二ナトリウムおよび/またはクエン酸ナトリウム、および(c)カタラーゼを夫々含有すると共に、溶液のpHが4〜5である点に要旨を有するものである。 The post-treatment agent for hair dye of the present invention capable of achieving the above object is a post-treatment agent for hair dye used for treating hair after being treated with an oxidative hair dye, and (a) lactic acid And (b) disodium hydrogen phosphate and / or sodium citrate, and (c) catalase, respectively, and has a gist in that the pH of the solution is 4-5.
本発明の染毛用後処理剤において、前記(b)リン酸水素二ナトリウムおよび/またはクエン酸ナトリウムの含有量は、染毛用後処理剤全体に占める割合で1.0〜15質量%であることが好ましい。また、(c)カタラーゼは、力価が20000Units/mL以上であると共に、その含有量が染毛用後処理剤全体に占める割合で0.1質量%以上であることが好ましい。 In the hair dyeing post-treatment agent of the present invention, the content of the (b) disodium hydrogen phosphate and / or sodium citrate is 1.0 to 15% by mass in the proportion of the whole hair dyeing post-treatment agent. Preferably there is. In addition, (c) catalase preferably has a titer of 20000 Units / mL or more and a content of 0.1% by mass or more in terms of the total amount of the post-treatment agent for hair dyeing.
本発明の染毛用後処理剤には、必要によって、更に(d)カチオン性高分子として、ポリ塩化ジメチルメチレンピペリジニウム、塩化ジメチルジアリルアンモニウム・アクリル酸共重合体、および塩化ジメチルジアリルアンモニウム・アクリルアミド共重合体よりなる群から選ばれる少なくとも1種を含有することも好ましく、こうした成分を含有するときの含有量は、染毛用後処理剤全体に占める割合で10質量%以下(0質量%を含まない)であることが好ましい。 In the post-treatment agent for hair dyeing of the present invention, if necessary, (d) as a cationic polymer, polydimethylmethylenepiperidinium chloride, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymer, and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride It is also preferable to contain at least one selected from the group consisting of acrylamide copolymers, and the content when such components are contained is 10% by mass or less (0% by mass) in the proportion of the total after-treatment agent for hair dyeing. Is not included).
一方、上記目的を達成し得た本発明の毛髪処理方法とは、酸化染毛剤で毛髪を処理した後、上記のような染毛用後処理剤を用いて毛髪を処理することを特徴とする。 On the other hand, the hair treatment method of the present invention that has achieved the above-mentioned object is characterized by treating the hair with an after-treatment agent for hair dyeing after treating the hair with an oxidative hair dye. To do.
本発明の染毛用後処理剤は、(a)乳酸、(b)リン酸水素二ナトリウムおよび/またはクエン酸ナトリウム、および(c)カタラーゼを夫々含有すると共に、溶液のpHを適切な範囲に調整することによって、染毛処理後の毛髪中に残存しているアルカリや過酸化水素を、染毛処理後の工程を複雑にすることなく、効果的に且つ一度に除去することによって、毛髪の損傷を防止し、しかも染毛後の毛髪のコンディションを整え、毛髪への染料の定着を良くすることのできる染毛用後処理剤が実現できた。 The post-treatment agent for hair dyeing of the present invention contains (a) lactic acid, (b) disodium hydrogen phosphate and / or sodium citrate, and (c) catalase, respectively, and the pH of the solution in an appropriate range. By adjusting, the alkali and hydrogen peroxide remaining in the hair after the hair dyeing treatment can be removed effectively and at a time without complicating the steps after the hair dyeing treatment. A post-treatment agent for hair dyeing that can prevent damage, condition the hair after dyeing, and improve the fixing of the dye to the hair has been realized.
本発明者は、上記目標に適う染毛用後処理剤の実現を目指して、様々な角度から検討した。その結果、(a)乳酸および(c)カタラーゼを基本成分として含有し、これに緩衝作用を付与するための塩(pH緩衝剤)として、(b)リン酸水素二ナトリウムおよび/またはクエン酸ナトリウムを含有し、且つ溶液のpHを4〜5に調整した染毛用後処理剤によって、希望の特性を発揮する染毛用後処理剤となり得ることを見出し、本発明を完成した。 This inventor examined from various angles aiming at realization of the post-treatment agent for hair dyeing suitable for the said objective. As a result, (b) disodium hydrogen phosphate and / or sodium citrate as a salt (pH buffer) containing (a) lactic acid and (c) catalase as basic components and imparting a buffering action thereto The present invention was completed by discovering that the hair dyeing post-treatment agent having a pH of 4 to 5 contained in the solution can serve as a hair dyeing post-treatment agent exhibiting desired properties.
本発明の染毛用後処理剤は、(a)乳酸、(b)リン酸水素二ナトリウムおよび/またはクエン酸ナトリウム、および(c)カタラーゼを含有するものであるが、このうち(a)乳酸は、収れん剤(収斂剤)若しくはpH調整剤として従来から使用されているものである。本発明者が、このような(a)乳酸の染毛用後処理剤への適用の可能性について検討したところ、乳酸を配合した染毛用後処理剤では、毛髪中に残存しているアンモニア(アルカリ剤)と毛髪内部で中和反応を起こし、保湿成分である乳酸アンモニウムを生成し、処理後の毛髪にツヤ感を付与し、良好な毛髪コンディションが得られることが判明したものである。収れん剤若しくはpH調整剤として従来から用いられている酸としては、乳酸の他に、リンゴ酸、クエン酸、リン酸等が知られているが、本発明者が検討したところによれば、これらの酸では乳酸で与えられる効果は認められなかった。尚、(a)乳酸の含有量については、染毛用後処理剤の溶液のpHを適切な範囲に調整できる量であれば良い。 The post-treatment agent for hair dyeing of the present invention contains (a) lactic acid, (b) disodium hydrogen phosphate and / or sodium citrate, and (c) catalase, of which (a) lactic acid Is conventionally used as an astringent (astringent) or a pH adjuster. When the present inventor examined the possibility of applying (a) lactic acid to a hair dyeing post-treatment agent, in the hair dyeing post-treatment agent containing lactic acid, ammonia remaining in the hair It has been found that a neutralization reaction occurs between the (alkali agent) and the inside of the hair, ammonium lactate as a moisturizing component is produced, a glossy feeling is imparted to the treated hair, and a good hair condition is obtained. As acids conventionally used as astringents or pH adjusters, malic acid, citric acid, phosphoric acid, and the like are known in addition to lactic acid. The effect of lactic acid was not observed with this acid. In addition, (a) About content of lactic acid, what is necessary is just the quantity which can adjust pH of the solution of the post-treatment agent for hair dyeing to an appropriate range.
本発明の染毛用後処理剤で用いる(b)リン酸水素二ナトリウムとクエン酸ナトリウムは、緩衝作用を付与するための塩としての機能を発揮する。緩衝作用を付与するためには、クエン酸、リン酸、酢酸、L−グルタミン酸、リンゴ酸、グリコール酸、乳酸等の酸のナトリウム塩やアンモニウム塩を後処理剤に加える方法は知られている。しかしながら、これらの塩の中でも、水溶液のpHが中性付近にある塩を用いて、酸性領域で緩衝作用を発揮させるためには、その塩を多量に配合する必要があり、後処理剤の長期安定性や処理後の毛髪のコンディション(ツヤ感、手触り感)に悪影響を及ぼすことがある。 (B) Disodium hydrogen phosphate and sodium citrate used in the post-treatment agent for hair dyeing of the present invention exhibit a function as a salt for imparting a buffering action. In order to impart a buffering action, a method of adding a sodium salt or ammonium salt of an acid such as citric acid, phosphoric acid, acetic acid, L-glutamic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid or the like to the post-treatment agent is known. However, among these salts, in order to exert a buffering action in an acidic region using a salt whose pH of the aqueous solution is near neutral, it is necessary to add a large amount of the salt, and the long-term of the post-treatment agent It may adversely affect the stability and condition of the hair after treatment (feel of gloss, feel).
こうした観点から、緩衝作用を付与するための塩として本発明で用いる(b)リン酸水素二ナトリウムとクエン酸ナトリウムでは、上記のような悪影響を及ぼすことはない。(b)リン酸水素二ナトリウムとクエン酸ナトリウムは、夫々単独若しくは併用して用いることができる。(b)リン酸水素二ナトリウムおよび/またはクエン酸ナトリウムによって、毛髪中のアルカリを効果的に除去するためには、それらの塩の含有量(併用する場合は合計含有量)は、染毛用後処理剤全体に占める割合で、1.0質量%以上であることが好ましい。しかしながら、これら塩の含有量が15質量%を超過して過剰になると、毛髪処理後の毛髪コンディションが却って悪くなり、また長期安定性も悪くなる。より好ましい含有量は5質量%以上、10質量%以下である。 From this point of view, (b) disodium hydrogen phosphate and sodium citrate used in the present invention as a salt for imparting a buffering action do not have the adverse effects described above. (B) Disodium hydrogen phosphate and sodium citrate can be used alone or in combination. (B) In order to effectively remove the alkali in the hair by disodium hydrogen phosphate and / or sodium citrate, the content of these salts (total content when used in combination) is used for hair dyeing. It is preferable that it is 1.0 mass% or more in the ratio which occupies for the whole aftertreatment agent. However, if the content of these salts exceeds 15% by mass and becomes excessive, the hair condition after the hair treatment becomes worse, and the long-term stability also deteriorates. A more preferable content is 5% by mass or more and 10% by mass or less.
本発明の染毛用後処理剤で用いる(c)カタラーゼは、生体内に存在する酵素の一種であり、過酸化水素を水と酸素に分解する触媒として知られている。その由来や、製法・種類などは、特に制限するものではないが、動植物や微生物等から公知の方法により抽出・精製されたカタラーゼを使用することができる。また(c)カタラーゼの酵素活性を示す国際単位(IU)として、「Units:」が用いられる。1Unitは、至適条件下で毎分1マイクロ・モル(μmol)の基質(蛋白質など)の反応に関与できる酵素の活力のことを示し、1mL当たりの酵素活力量を力価(酵素力価)という。本発明で用いられるカタラーゼの力価は、少なくとも20000Units/mL以上(より好ましくは50000Units/mL以上)のものであることが好ましい。 (C) Catalase used in the post-treatment agent for hair dyeing of the present invention is a kind of enzyme present in the living body and is known as a catalyst for decomposing hydrogen peroxide into water and oxygen. The origin, production method, type, and the like are not particularly limited, but catalase extracted and purified from animals, plants, microorganisms, and the like by known methods can be used. In addition, “Units:” is used as an international unit (IU) indicating the enzyme activity of (c) catalase. 1 Unit indicates the activity of an enzyme that can participate in the reaction of 1 micromole (μmol) of a substrate (protein, etc.) per minute under the optimum conditions, and the amount of enzyme activity per mL is titer (enzyme titer). That's it. The titer of catalase used in the present invention is preferably at least 20000 Units / mL or more (more preferably 50000 Units / mL or more).
本発明の染毛用後処理剤では、上記のような(c)カタラーゼを含有させることによって、染毛処理後の毛髪の残留過酸化水素を除去し、毛髪の損傷を防止する効果を発揮する。こうした効果を発揮するためには、カタラーゼの含有量は、0.1質量%以上であることが好ましい。このような(c)カタラーゼとして、具体的には、「アスクヘアー」(商品名:三菱ガス化学株式会社製)が挙げられる。 In the post-treatment agent for hair dyeing of the present invention, by containing (c) catalase as described above, residual hydrogen peroxide in the hair after hair dyeing treatment is removed, and the effect of preventing hair damage is exhibited. . In order to exert such an effect, the content of catalase is preferably 0.1% by mass or more. Specific examples of such (c) catalase include “Ask Hair” (trade name: manufactured by Mitsubishi Gas Chemical Co., Ltd.).
本発明の染毛用後処理剤においては、酸化染毛剤による毛髪の損傷の防止効果や、染毛用後処理剤を塗布したことによる毛髪変色の防止、更には残留アルカリ・残留過酸化水素の除去能を発揮させる観点から、染毛用後処理剤(溶液)のpHは4〜5の範囲とする必要がある。溶液のpHが4未満になると、効果的に残留アルカリ除去ができるが、染毛した後の毛髪の色は変色し易くなり、また(c)カタラーゼも効果的に作用しなくなる。一方、溶液のpHが5を超えると残留アルカリ除去能が低下する。 In the post-treatment agent for hair dyeing of the present invention, the effect of preventing hair damage due to the oxidative hair dye, the prevention of hair discoloration due to the application of the post-treatment agent for hair dyeing, and the residual alkali / residual hydrogen peroxide From the viewpoint of exhibiting the ability to remove the hair, the pH of the post-treatment agent for hair dye (solution) needs to be in the range of 4-5. When the pH of the solution is less than 4, residual alkali can be removed effectively, but the color of the hair after dyeing is easily discolored, and (c) catalase also does not act effectively. On the other hand, when the pH of the solution exceeds 5, the residual alkali removing ability is lowered.
本発明の染毛用後処理剤には上記成分の他に、必要によって更に(d)カチオン性高分子も含有させることができる。カチオン性高分子を含有させることによって、染毛処理後の洗髪時、すすぎ時、仕上がり時の感触を優れたものとし、しかも毛髪損傷を修復または抑制できるものとなる。こうしたカチオン性高分子としては、ポリ塩化ジメチルメチレンピペリジニウム、塩化ジメチルジアリルアンモニウム・アクリル酸共重合体、塩化ジメチルジアリルアンモニウム・アクリルアミド共重合体等が挙げられ、これらの1種または2種以上を好適に用いることができる。このうち、特に塩化ジメチルジアリルアンモニウム・アクリル酸共重合体では、その後に処理するトリートメントに悪影響を及ぼさない点で好ましい。 In addition to the above components, the post-treatment agent for hair dyeing of the present invention may further contain (d) a cationic polymer, if necessary. By containing the cationic polymer, the touch at the time of shampooing, rinsing and finishing after the hair dyeing treatment is excellent, and hair damage can be repaired or suppressed. Examples of such cationic polymers include polydimethylmethylenepiperidinium chloride, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymer, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer, and one or more of these may be used. It can be used suitably. Of these, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymer is particularly preferable because it does not adversely affect the treatment to be performed thereafter.
カチオン性高分子を含有させるときの含有量は、染毛用後処理剤全体に占める割合で10質量%以下(より好ましくは8質量%以下)であることが好ましい。カチオン性高分子の含有量が10質量%を超えて過剰になると、毛髪処理後の毛髪に却ってべたつきが出たり、その後のトリートメントに悪影響を及ぼすことになる。尚、カチオン性高分子の好まし含有量は、1質量%以上(より好ましくは2質量%以上)である。 The content when the cationic polymer is contained is preferably 10% by mass or less (more preferably 8% by mass or less) as a proportion of the total amount of the post-treatment agent for hair dyeing. When the content of the cationic polymer exceeds 10% by mass, it becomes sticky on the hair after the hair treatment or adversely affects the subsequent treatment. The preferred content of the cationic polymer is 1% by mass or more (more preferably 2% by mass or more).
上記のような本発明の染毛用後処理剤を用いて毛髪を処理するにあたり、酸化染毛剤で毛髪を処理した後、その毛髪から染毛剤を洗い流した直後に本発明の後処理剤を毛髪に塗布し、洗い流さずにシャンプー施術をすることで、本発明の効果が得られる。本発明の本処理剤を塗布した後に洗い流しても効果が損なわれることは無いが、染毛処理の工程が複雑になることを考慮すると、後処理剤を塗布してそのままシャンプーすることが好ましい。 In treating hair with the post-treatment agent for hair dye of the present invention as described above, after treating the hair with an oxidative hair dye, the post-treatment agent of the present invention immediately after washing the hair dye from the hair. The effect of the present invention can be obtained by applying shampoo to the hair and performing shampooing without washing. Even if it is washed off after applying the present treatment agent of the present invention, the effect is not impaired, but considering the complexity of the hair dyeing process, it is preferable to apply the post-treatment agent and shampoo it as it is.
本発明の染毛用後処理剤には、上記の成分以外にも染毛用後処理剤に通常添加されるような成分(添加剤)を含有させることができる。こうした添加剤としては、油剤、高級アルコール類の油剤、保湿剤、界面活性剤(非イオン性界面活性剤、アニオン性界面活性剤、カチオン性界面活性剤、両性界面活性剤)、シリコーン、タンパク質類、加水分解タンパク質類、アミノ酸類、植物エキス類、紫外線吸収剤、消臭剤、防腐剤、キレート剤、pH調整剤、安定化剤、酸化防止剤、溶剤、抗炎症剤、香料、色素等を挙げることができ、これらを適宜配合することができる。 The post-treatment agent for hair dyeing of the present invention can contain components (additives) that are usually added to the post-treatment agent for hair dyeing in addition to the above components. These additives include oils, higher alcohol oils, moisturizers, surfactants (nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants), silicones, proteins Hydrolyzed proteins, amino acids, plant extracts, UV absorbers, deodorants, preservatives, chelating agents, pH adjusters, stabilizers, antioxidants, solvents, anti-inflammatory agents, fragrances, pigments, etc. These can be listed as appropriate.
次に、実施例によって本発明の作用・効果を具体的に示すが、下記実施例は本発明を限定する性質のものではなく、前・後記の趣旨に徴して設計変更することは、いずれも本発明の技術的範囲に含まれるものである。 Next, the operation and effect of the present invention will be described specifically by way of examples. However, the following examples are not of a nature that limit the present invention, and any design changes may be made in accordance with the purpose described above and below. It is included in the technical scope of the present invention.
[実施例1]
酸化染毛剤で毛髪を処理した後に、各種染毛用後処理剤(後記表3、4に示す処方例1〜21)で処理したときの毛髪について、「色調の変色度合い」、「残留アルカリ除去能」、「残留過酸化水素除去能」、「毛髪のコンディション(ツヤ感)」について下記の方法によって検討した。
[Example 1]
After treating the hair with an oxidative hair dye, the hair when treated with various post-treatment agents for hair dyeing (formulation examples 1 to 21 shown in Tables 3 and 4 below), “degree of color change in color tone”, “residual alkali” The “removability”, “residual hydrogen peroxide removal ability”, and “hair condition (shininess)” were examined by the following methods.
[色調の変色度合いの評価]
酸化染毛剤[第1剤:「キャラデコ アッシュ A/v−9」(酸化染毛剤:中野製薬株式会社製)、第2剤:「キャラデコオキサイド06」(過酸化水素系酸化剤:中野製薬株式会社製)、第1剤と第2剤の混合比率(質量比)1:1]を、化学的処理(酸化染毛・脱色処理等)を受けていないヒト由来の毛束(10cm、1g)に塗布し(質量比で1:1の割合)、35℃、30分間放置することで染色した。次いで水洗し、表1、2に示す各種染毛用後処理剤を夫々塗布し、洗い流さずに、洗髪処理(商品名:「キャラデコシャンプー」中野製薬株式会社製)を行った(ここまでの処理を、以下では「一連の処理」と呼ぶ)。
[Evaluation of degree of color change]
Oxidative hair dye [first agent: “Caradeco ash A / v-9” (Oxidative hair dye: manufactured by Nakano Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.), second agent: “Caradeco oxide 06” (hydrogen peroxide oxidizer: Nakano Pharmaceutical) Co., Ltd.), the mixing ratio (mass ratio) 1: 1 of the first agent and the second agent is a human-derived hair bundle (10 cm, 1 g) that has not been subjected to chemical treatment (oxidative hair coloring, decoloring treatment, etc.) ) (A ratio of 1: 1 by mass ratio) and dyed by leaving at 35 ° C. for 30 minutes. Next, it was washed with water, and after applying various post-treatment agents for hair dyeing as shown in Tables 1 and 2, the hair was washed (trade name: “Character Deco Shampoo” manufactured by Nakano Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.). Is hereinafter referred to as “a series of processes”).
その後、乾燥させた毛髪の色相(L*、a*、b*)を色差計により測定し、未処理のものと色相を比較(色相の変化)することで下記の基準により評価した。色相の変化は、△a*値で評価した。尚、(L*a*b*)とは、色を表す方法(表色系)の一種であり、明るさ(L*=明度)と色調(a*=赤−緑、b*=黄−青)を3つの軸・指標で特定の色を数字として表すものである。この評価方法は、染毛処理を行った毛髪に、アルカリ除去を目的とした酸処理を行った場合、その溶液のpHが低すぎるとしばしば変色が認められることを応用したものである。これは、酸化染毛剤の染料が毛髪に定着する前に、毛髪内部のpHを急激に変化したことにより、染料の吸収波長が変化するためである。特に、アッシュ系(青系)で染色した毛髪は顕著に色相の変化が起こり、赤みを帯びる傾向(a*の増加)がある。尚、実施例1で用いた色差計は、分光式色差計(「SE−2000」:日本電色工業株式会社製)を用いた。 Thereafter, the hue (L * , a * , b * ) of the dried hair was measured with a color difference meter, and the hue was compared with the untreated color (change in hue), and evaluated according to the following criteria. The change in hue was evaluated by the Δa * value. Note that (L * a * b * ) is a type of color representation (color system), and brightness (L * = lightness) and color tone (a * = red-green, b * = yellow-). Blue) represents a specific color as a number with three axes and indicators. This evaluation method is applied to the fact that when the hair subjected to the hair dyeing treatment is subjected to an acid treatment for the purpose of alkali removal, discoloration is often observed if the pH of the solution is too low. This is because the absorption wavelength of the dye changes due to a sudden change in the pH inside the hair before the dye of the oxidative hair dye is fixed on the hair. In particular, hair dyed with ash (blue) has a marked hue change and tends to be reddish (increase a * ). The color difference meter used in Example 1 was a spectroscopic color difference meter (“SE-2000” manufactured by Nippon Denshoku Industries Co., Ltd.).
(色調の変色度合いの評価基準)
◎:△a*値=0.2未満
○:△a*値=0.2以上、0.5未満
△:△a*値=0.5以上、0.8未満
×:△a*値=0.8以上
(Evaluation criteria for the degree of color change)
◎: Δa * value = less than 0.2 ○: Δa * value = 0.2 or more, less than 0.5 △: Δa * value = 0.5 or more, less than 0.8 ×: Δa * value = 0.8 or more
(残留アルカリ除去能の評価)
残留アルカリ除去能は、上記の一連の処理を行い、タオルドライした毛束に対して、pHテスターペン(株式会社日研化学研究所製)を毛髪に塗布し、毛髪の色の変化によって残留アルカリの有無を評価した。図1は、各pHによる色調の変化を示したものであり、この色調の変化を基準にした。但し、このとき用いた酸化染毛剤は、下記表1(酸化染毛剤第1剤)および表2(酸化染毛剤第2剤)に組成を示すものである(混合比1:1)。
(Evaluation of ability to remove residual alkali)
Residual alkali removal ability is a series of treatments described above. To the hair bundle that has been towel-dried, a pH tester pen (manufactured by Nikken Chemical Co., Ltd.) is applied to the hair, and residual alkali is removed by changing the color of the hair. The presence or absence of was evaluated. FIG. 1 shows the change in color tone due to each pH, and the change in color tone was used as a reference. However, the oxidation hair dye used at this time shows the composition in Table 1 (oxidation hair dye first agent) and Table 2 (oxidation hair dye second agent) below (mixing ratio 1: 1). .
(残留アルカリ除去能の評価基準)
◎:pH=5.0以上、6.0未満
○:pH=6.0以上、7.0未満
△:pH=7.0以上、8.0未満(または4.0以上、5.0未満:酸性側になっているもの)
×:pH=8.0以上
(Evaluation criteria for residual alkali removal ability)
A: pH = 5.0 or more, less than 6.0 B: pH = 6.0 or more, less than 7.0 Δ: pH = 7.0 or more, less than 8.0 (or 4.0 or more, less than 5.0 : Acid side)
X: pH = 8.0 or more
[残留過酸化水素除去能の評価]
残留過酸化水素除去能は、上記の一連の処理(残留アルカリ除去能の場合と同様)を行い、乾燥した毛髪を、ハサミにより細かく破砕しスピッツ管に200μg精秤した。その後、抽出溶液として0.1Mのリン酸緩衝溶液(pH6.0)1000μLを入れ、ボルティックスミキサーで3分間撹拌し、その後1時間静置した。静置後、上澄み溶液の一部をサンプリングし、Peroxid Test(Merckoqant社製)を用いて、上澄み液中の過酸化水素濃度(ppm)を評価した。
[Evaluation of ability to remove residual hydrogen peroxide]
The residual hydrogen peroxide removing ability was subjected to the above-described series of treatments (similar to the case of residual alkali removing ability), and the dried hair was finely crushed with scissors and precisely weighed to 200 μg in a Spitz tube. Thereafter, 1000 μL of 0.1 M phosphate buffer solution (pH 6.0) was added as an extraction solution, stirred for 3 minutes with a vortex mixer, and then allowed to stand for 1 hour. After standing, a part of the supernatant solution was sampled, and the hydrogen peroxide concentration (ppm) in the supernatant was evaluated using Peroxid Test (manufactured by Mercokant).
(残留過酸化水素除去能の評価基準)
◎:0.5ppm未満
○:0.5ppm以上、2ppm未満
△:2ppm以上、5ppm未満
×:5ppm以上
(Evaluation criteria for residual hydrogen peroxide removal ability)
◎: Less than 0.5 ppm ○: 0.5 ppm or more, less than 2 ppm Δ: 2 ppm or more, less than 5 ppm ×: 5 ppm or more
[毛髪のコンディション(ツヤ感)の評価]
毛髪のコンディション(ツヤ感)の評価は、専門パネラー10名により、化学的処理(酸化染毛・脱色処理等)を受けていないヒト由来の試験用毛束(長さ:20cm、重さ:15g)を用い、上記の一連の処理を行った。このとき、酸化染毛剤は、上記表1、2に示したものを使用した(混合比1:1)。その後、20℃、湿度60%で24時間以上調湿し、直径約6cmの円筒に試験用毛束を巻きつけ、白色蛍光灯下で毛髪のツヤを下記の3段階評価(評価点)で官能評価し、評価点の合計値を求め、以下の基準で判定した。
3点:非常にツヤが出る
2点:ツヤが出る
1点:ツヤが出ない
[Evaluation of hair condition (shine)]
Evaluation of hair condition (feeling of gloss) was performed by 10 professional panelists who used test hair bundles (length: 20 cm, weight: 15 g) from humans who had not received chemical treatment (oxidative hair dyeing, decoloring treatment, etc.) ) Was used to carry out the series of processes described above. At this time, the oxidative hair dye used was the one shown in Tables 1 and 2 above (mixing ratio 1: 1). After that, humidity is adjusted for 24 hours or more at 20 ° C. and 60% humidity, and a test hair bundle is wound around a cylinder with a diameter of about 6 cm, and the gloss of the hair is functionalized by the following three-level evaluation (evaluation points) under a white fluorescent lamp. Evaluation was made, the total value of the evaluation points was determined, and the determination was made according to the following criteria.
3 points: very glossy 2 points: glossy 1 point: no glossy
[毛髪のコンディション(ツヤ感)の評価基準]
◎:25点以上
○:20点以上、25点未満
△:15点以上、20点未満
×:15点未満
[Evaluation criteria for hair condition]
◎: 25 points or more ○: 20 points or more, less than 25 points △: 15 points or more, less than 20 points ×: less than 15 points
これらの評価結果について、各種染毛用後処理剤の組成(処方例1〜21)と共に、下記表3、4に示す。尚、このとき用いた(c)カタラーゼは、力価が50000Units/mLのもの(商品名:「アスクヘアー」三菱ガス化学株式会社製)である。 About these evaluation results, it shows in following Tables 3 and 4 with a composition (prescription examples 1-21) of the post-processing agent for various hair dyeing. In addition, the (c) catalase used at this time has a titer of 50000 Units / mL (trade name: “Ask Hair” manufactured by Mitsubishi Gas Chemical Co., Ltd.).
これらの結果から次のように考察できる。まず毛髪の変色度合いに関しては、染毛用後処理剤のpHが4.0未満になると変色が起こることが分かる(処方例17、18)。毛髪内部で重合した酸化染料の多くは、pH変化によって、吸収波長が変化し、変色が起こる。このため、毛髪内部のpHを急激に変化したことによって毛髪が変色したものと考えられる。また染毛用後処理剤のpHが6.0となると、毛髪の変色は起こらないが、残留アルカリ中和能(アルカリ除去能)が低下することがわかる(処方例21)。 These results can be considered as follows. First, regarding the degree of discoloration of hair, it can be seen that discoloration occurs when the pH of the post-treatment agent for hair dye is less than 4.0 (Prescription Examples 17 and 18). Many of the oxidation dyes polymerized in the hair change the absorption wavelength due to a change in pH and cause discoloration. For this reason, it is considered that the hair was discolored by abruptly changing the pH inside the hair. It can also be seen that when the pH of the post-treatment agent for hair dye becomes 6.0, discoloration of the hair does not occur, but the residual alkali neutralization ability (alkali removal ability) decreases (Formulation Example 21).
緩衝作用を付与するための塩[(b)成分]に関する検討(処方例1〜10)では、塩の含有量が20質量%(処方例6)、または0.5質量%(処方例2)では、処理後の毛髪のツヤ感が減少する結果となった。塩の含有量が15質量%を超過すると、溶液のpHを4.5にするために乳酸の配合量も多くなり、その結果として過度な収斂により、毛髪損傷が出るものと考えられる(処方例6)。処方例6では、それと共に毛髪の変色も起こっている。塩の含有量が0.5質量%では、残留アルカリ除去能が低いため、十分にアルカリ除去ができず、それに応じてツヤ感も低下している(処方例2)。(b)成分として、リン酸水素二ナトリウムを7.5質量%含有させたとき(処方例1)、クエン酸ナトリウムを5質量%含有させたとき(処方例8)、両者を併用したとき(処方例9)に、残留アルカリ除去能および残留過酸化水素除去能を最も効果的に発揮し、毛髪のツヤ感も良好な結果となっている。 In the study on the salt [(b) component] for imparting a buffering action (formulation examples 1 to 10), the salt content is 20% by mass (formulation example 6), or 0.5% by mass (formulation example 2). Then, the glossiness of the hair after the treatment was reduced. When the salt content exceeds 15% by mass, the amount of lactic acid increases to bring the pH of the solution to 4.5, and as a result, it is considered that hair damage occurs due to excessive convergence (formulation example). 6). In Formulation Example 6, discoloration of the hair has also occurred. When the salt content is 0.5% by mass, the residual alkali removing ability is low, so that the alkali cannot be removed sufficiently, and the glossiness is lowered accordingly (Formulation Example 2). (B) When 7.5 mass% of disodium hydrogen phosphate is contained as a component (Formulation Example 1), 5 mass% of sodium citrate is contained (Formulation Example 8), and both are used together ( In the formulation example 9), the residual alkali removing ability and the residual hydrogen peroxide removing ability are most effectively exhibited, and the glossiness of the hair is also good.
これに対し、緩衝作用を付与するための塩として、乳酸ナトリウムを用いた場合(処方例10)は、十分な残留アルカリ除去能が得られず、ツヤ感も悪くなっている。乳酸ナトリウムは、その水溶液が中性付近であるため、pH4.5で緩衝させる場合は、乳酸の配合量が極端に少なくなる。そのため、残留アルカリ除去能が低くなると考えられる。 On the other hand, when sodium lactate is used as a salt for imparting a buffering effect (Formulation Example 10), sufficient residual alkali removal ability cannot be obtained, and the glossiness is also deteriorated. Since the aqueous solution of sodium lactate is near neutral, the amount of lactic acid is extremely reduced when buffered at pH 4.5. Therefore, it is considered that the residual alkali removing ability is lowered.
酸成分として、リンゴ酸、リン酸、クエン酸を用いた場合(処方例14〜16)、乳酸を用いるときよりも毛髪のツヤ感が低下している。これは、酸化染毛処理後に残留しているアンモニアと乳酸が中和反応を起こし、保湿剤である乳酸アンモニウムを生じることで、ツヤ感を付与できるためと考えられる。 When malic acid, phosphoric acid, or citric acid is used as the acid component (Prescription Examples 14 to 16), the gloss of hair is lower than when lactic acid is used. This is probably because ammonia and lactic acid remaining after the oxidative hair dyeing treatment cause a neutralization reaction to produce ammonium lactate as a moisturizing agent, thereby giving a glossy feeling.
(c)カタラーゼの含有量に関して、十分な過酸化水素除去能を発揮させるためには、0.1質量%以上が好ましいことが分かる(処方例12、13)。また溶液のpHについても3.4以下では、酵素活性が低下し過酸化水素除去能が低下することが分かる(処方例17、18)。十分な酵素活性を発揮させるためには、溶液のpHは4.0以上が必要となる。 (C) As for the content of catalase, it is found that 0.1% by mass or more is preferable in order to exert sufficient hydrogen peroxide removing ability (Prescription Examples 12 and 13). It can also be seen that the pH of the solution is 3.4 or lower and the enzyme activity decreases and the hydrogen peroxide removing ability decreases (Formulation Examples 17 and 18). In order to exert sufficient enzyme activity, the pH of the solution needs to be 4.0 or more.
以上の検討結果から、処方例1、8、9、13の後処理剤を用いたものが、機能的に最も優れたものとなっている。 From the above examination results, those using the post-treatment agents of Formulation Examples 1, 8, 9, and 13 are the most functionally superior.
[実施例2]
酸化染毛剤で毛髪を処理した後に、各種染毛用後処理剤(下記表5に示す処方例22〜27)で処理したときの毛髪について、染毛用後処理剤にカチオン性高分子を含有させた場合のコンディション(洗髪時、すすぎ時の感触)について評価した。このコンディションの評価は、前記表1、2に示した酸化染毛剤(第1剤と第2剤の混合比(1:1))を、化学的処理(酸化染毛・脱色処理等)を受けていないヒト由来の毛束(30cm、10g)に塗布し(質量比1:1)、35℃、30分間放置することで染色処理を行った。
[Example 2]
After treating the hair with an oxidative hair dye, a cationic polymer is added to the hair dye post-treatment agent for the hair treated with various hair dye post-treatment agents (formulation examples 22 to 27 shown in Table 5 below). The condition when it was contained (feel at the time of shampooing and rinsing) was evaluated. Evaluation of this condition is carried out using the oxidation hair dye (mixing ratio (1: 1) of the first agent and the second agent) shown in Tables 1 and 2 above, and chemical treatment (oxidation hair dyeing / decoloration treatment, etc.). It was applied to a hair bundle (30 cm, 10 g) derived from an unreceived human (mass ratio 1: 1) and allowed to stand at 35 ° C. for 30 minutes for dyeing treatment.
次いで水洗し、下記表5に記載の染毛用後処理剤(処方例22〜27)をそれぞれ塗布し、洗い流さずに、洗髪処理(商品名:「キャラデコシャンプー」中野製薬株式会社製)を行い、洗髪処理に関して、すすぎ終わるまでの「毛髪の絡まり難さ」、すすぎ終わるまでの「毛髪のすべり(指通り)」、およびすすぎ時の「毛髪の柔軟性」について専門のパネラー(10名)により、下記の基準により評価した。 Next, it was washed with water, and after-treatment agents for hair dyeing (Prescription Examples 22 to 27) shown in Table 5 below were applied, and the hair was washed without washing (trade name: “Charadeco Shampoo” manufactured by Nakano Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.). Regarding the hair washing treatment, by a panel of experts (10 persons) about “hardness of hair entanglement” until the end of rinsing, “slip of hair (through the fingers)” until the end of rinsing, and “flexibility of hair” at the time of rinsing Evaluation was made according to the following criteria.
[すすぎ終わるまでの「毛髪の絡まり難さ」の評価]
3点:毛髪が絡まない
2点:毛髪が少し絡まる
1点:毛髪が絡まる
[Evaluation of “difficulty in tangling hair” until rinsing is completed]
3 points: hair does not get tangled 2 points: hair gets tangled a little 1 point: hair gets tangled
(すすぎ終わるまでの「毛髪の絡まり難さ」の評価基準(合計値))
◎:25点以上
○:20点以上、25点未満
△:15点以上、20点未満
×:10点以上、15点未満
(Evaluation criteria (total value) of “hardness of hair entanglement” until rinsing is completed)
◎: 25 points or more ○: 20 points or more, less than 25 points △: 15 points or more, less than 20 points ×: 10 points or more, less than 15 points
[すすぎ終わるまでの「毛髪のすべり(指通り)」の評価]
3点:毛髪のすべり(指通り)が良い
2点:毛髪のすべり(指通り)がやや良い
1点:毛髪のすべり(指通り)が悪い
[Evaluation of “slip of hair (through fingers)” until rinsing is completed]
3 points: Hair slip (finger pass) is good 2 points: Hair slip (finger pass) is slightly good 1 point: Hair slip (finger pass) is poor
(すすぎ終わるまでの「毛髪のすべり(指通り)」の評価基準(合計値))
◎:25点以上
○:20点以上、25点未満
△:15点以上、20点未満
×:10点以上、15点未満
(Evaluation criteria (total value) of “slip of hair (through fingers)” until rinsing is completed)
◎: 25 points or more ○: 20 points or more, less than 25 points △: 15 points or more, less than 20 points ×: 10 points or more, less than 15 points
[すすぎ時の「毛髪の柔軟性」の評価]
3点:毛髪の柔軟性がある
2点:毛髪の柔軟性が少しある
1点:毛髪の柔軟性がない
[Evaluation of “softness of hair” during rinsing]
3 points: hair has flexibility 2 points: hair has some flexibility 1 point: hair has no flexibility
(すすぎ時の「毛髪の柔軟性」の評価基準(合計値))
◎:25点以上
○:20点以上、25点未満
△:15点以上、20点未満
×:10点以上、15点未満
(Evaluation criteria (total value) of “softness of hair” during rinsing)
◎: 25 points or more ○: 20 points or more, less than 25 points △: 15 points or more, less than 20 points ×: 10 points or more, less than 15 points
これらの評価結果について、各種染毛用後処理剤の組成(処方例22〜27)と共に、下記表5に示す。尚、このとき用いた(c)カタラーゼは、力価が50000Units/mLのもの[「アスクヘアー」(商品名:三菱ガス化学株式会社製)]である。また、下記表5には、処方例1の後処理剤を用いて処理したときの結果も示した。 About these evaluation results, it shows in following Table 5 with a composition (prescription examples 22-27) of various post-treatment agents for hair dyeing. The (c) catalase used at this time is one having a titer of 50000 Units / mL [“Ask Hair” (trade name: manufactured by Mitsubishi Gas Chemical Co., Inc.)]. Table 5 below also shows the results when processing was performed using the post-treatment agent of Formulation Example 1.
この結果から明らかであるように、本発明の後処理剤にカチオン性高分子を配合することで、洗髪時の毛髪の絡まりを防ぎ、すべりを良くし、すすぎ時の感触を改善できていることがわかる(処方例23〜27)。しかし、その含有量が10質量%を超過すると(処方例22)、洗髪時、すすぎ時ともにべたつきが認められ、すべりが悪くなっている。 As is clear from this result, by blending the cationic polymer with the post-treatment agent of the present invention, it is possible to prevent tangling of the hair during shampooing, improve slipping, and improve the feel during rinsing. (Prescription Examples 23 to 27). However, when the content exceeds 10% by mass (Formulation Example 22), stickiness is recognized both during washing and during rinsing, and slipping is worse.
[実施例3]
本発明の染毛用後処理剤の効果を更に検証するために、酸化染毛処理後の毛髪について、本発明の後処理剤の使用有無による毛髪表面(キューティクルの浮き上がり)の状態を走査型電子顕微鏡(SEM)の観察により評価した。
[Example 3]
In order to further verify the effect of the post-treatment agent for hair dyeing of the present invention, the state of the hair surface (cuticle lift) depending on whether or not the post-treatment agent of the present invention is used for the hair after oxidative hair dyeing treatment is scanned electronic Evaluation was made by observation with a microscope (SEM).
SEMによる毛髪状態の評価は、前記表1、2に示した酸化染毛剤(第1剤と第2剤の混合比(1:2))を、化学的処理(酸化染毛・脱色処理等)を受けていないヒト由来の毛束(10cm、1.0g)に質量比1:1で塗布した。その後35℃にて30分間放置し、十分水洗を行った後、処方例24の後処理剤を塗布し、洗い流さずにシャンプー処理(商品名:「キャラデコシャンプー」中野製薬株式会社製)を行った。更に、トリートメント(商品名:「キャラデコトリートメント」中野製薬株式会社製)処理を行い、乾燥した(80℃、1時間)。この操作を、5回繰り返し毛髪を処理した。また比較基準として、本発明の処理剤を施術していない場合の毛髪も同様に処理した。 Evaluation of the hair state by SEM is carried out by using the oxidation hair dye (mixing ratio of the first agent and the second agent (1: 2)) shown in Tables 1 and 2 above, chemical treatment (oxidation hair dyeing / decoloration treatment, etc.). ) Was applied to a human-derived hair bundle (10 cm, 1.0 g) not receiving a mass ratio of 1: 1. The mixture was then allowed to stand at 35 ° C. for 30 minutes and sufficiently washed with water, and then the post-treatment agent of Formulation Example 24 was applied, and shampoo treatment (trade name: “Charadeco Shampoo” manufactured by Nakano Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) was performed without washing off. . Furthermore, the treatment (trade name: “Character Deco Treatment” manufactured by Nakano Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) was performed and dried (80 ° C., 1 hour). This operation was repeated 5 times to treat the hair. Further, as a reference for comparison, hair not treated with the treatment agent of the present invention was treated in the same manner.
次に、処理した毛髪のキューティクル間の接着に負荷を与えるため、各毛束に紫外線照射と毛髪の長さ方向に20%の伸張を与え、観察毛髪を調製した。紫外線照射は、紫外線照射装置(「デルマレー200」:株式会社クリニカルサプライ製)により、UVBを7日間相当(7.351langleys)照射した。その後、材料試験機(「STA−1150」:株式会社オリエンテック製)により、長さ50mmの毛髪に対して20%の伸張(10mm 移動速度10mm/min)を与え、10秒間静止後、試験機から外した。 Next, in order to apply a load to the adhesion between the cuticles of the treated hair, each hair bundle was irradiated with ultraviolet rays and stretched by 20% in the length direction of the hair to prepare observation hair. For ultraviolet irradiation, UVB was irradiated for 7 days (7.351 langleys) with an ultraviolet irradiation device (“Dermaray 200” manufactured by Clinical Supply Co., Ltd.). Then, 20% elongation (10 mm moving speed 10 mm / min) was given to hair having a length of 50 mm by a material testing machine ("STA-1150": manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd.), and the test machine was stopped for 10 seconds. Removed from.
得られた処理毛髪から各試料毛髪を任意に選び、中間部を走査電子顕微鏡用試料台に貼り付け、金コーティングを施し、毛髪表面の状態(キューティクルの浮き上がり)を、走査型電子顕微鏡(「JST−6390LV」:日本電子株式会社製)を用いて観察した。 Each sample hair is arbitrarily selected from the obtained treated hairs, the middle part is attached to a scanning electron microscope sample stage, gold coating is applied, and the hair surface state (lift of the cuticle) is measured with a scanning electron microscope (“JST”). -6390LV ": manufactured by JEOL Ltd.).
その結果を、図2(毛髪表面の状態を示す図面代用顕微鏡写真)に示す。図2(a)は、本発明の染毛用後処理剤で処理した毛髪の表面状態を示し、図2(b)は未処理の毛髪表面の状態を示している。この結果から、本発明の染毛用後処理剤で染毛後に処理することによって、キューティクルの浮き上がりを抑制できていることが分かる。これは、染毛後、毛髪に残留しているアルカリ成分や過酸化水素を効果的に取り除くことによって、キューティクル間に存在している細胞間脂質の破壊が抑制できるためと考えられる。 The results are shown in FIG. 2 (drawing substitute micrograph showing the state of the hair surface). Fig.2 (a) shows the surface state of the hair processed with the post-treatment agent for hair dyeing of this invention, FIG.2 (b) has shown the state of the untreated hair surface. From this result, it is understood that the lift of the cuticle can be suppressed by performing the treatment after hair dyeing with the post-treatment agent for hair dyeing of the present invention. This is presumably because the destruction of intercellular lipids existing between the cuticles can be suppressed by effectively removing the alkaline components and hydrogen peroxide remaining in the hair after hair dyeing.
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