JP2896533B2 - Permanent processing of hair - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The classical technique for performing permanent hair treatment is based on two processing steps. That is, in the first step, the cystine-disulfide-crosslinking of hair keratin is
The ring is opened by the action of a drug (reforming agent) containing a reducing agent. Thereafter, the hair is brought into the desired form. In the second step, the cystine-disulfide bond is closed again by the use of a setting agent, ie, an agent containing an oxidizing agent.

From published European patent application 0 671 158, a method of permanent deformation of keratin substances is known,
In this case, the wound hair is coated with a permanent agent mainly comprising a hair keratin-reducing substance, and the keratin substance thus treated is then optionally heated, and the keratin treated in this manner. Rinse the material, leave the rinsed keratin material in place, and finally remove the curler. No set agent is used.

The wave results achievable in this way are not satisfactory. Because the hair contains excess of reducing agent, which can damage the hair, and the resulting curls are not sufficiently stabilized due to lack of oxidative recombination. is there. The teaching of obtaining a stable wave uniformly over the length of a large curled hair cannot likewise be derived in this print.

Typical permanent wave reducing agents use thioglycolic acid, such as its ammonium or monoethanolamine salt, as shown by the pioneering work of German Patent Specification 948 186 and 972 424. Other common reducing agents are inorganic sulfites, 2-mercaptopropionic acid (thiolactic acid), 3-mercaptopropionic acid, certain mercaptocarboxylates, cysteine and derivatives of these compounds.

Both processing steps of the conventional method, namely the ring-opening and regeneration of the cystine-disulfide-bond, are carried out on curled hair. After the second step, the fixing step, the hair first has a dense curl corresponding to the size of the curler. However, such jammed curls are generally not desirable, and the results obtained with this wave method must be corrected once again. In other words, the curl of the root of the hair is actually satisfactory by the method of the state of the art, but the curl is too curl at the middle part and at the tip of the hair. Thus, by means of ordinary permanent waves and humidification of the wavy hair, a so-called "water wave treatment" by the use of water wave curlers and solid resins is required for the production of large natural curls. Permanent waves, which correspond to naturally curled Central European hair, cannot be achieved with the previously known permanent wave methods. Nevertheless, such permanent wave processing is desired as an original goal for both female customers and male customers.

The object of the present invention is therefore to avoid the above-mentioned disadvantages and to produce, in a simple manner, a stable, reliable and uniform permanent wave against humidification, without a dense curl, It is an object of the present invention to provide a method of permanent wave of hair so as to be a hairstyle. At the same time, it is also possible to form and correct the curl size on demand without any time constraints during processing.

Accordingly, the subject of the present invention is a method for permanent treatment of hair, which comprises: a) wrapping the hair around a curler; b) the wrapped hair being based on a hair keratin reducing substance. Applying a permanent agent, c) allowing the permanent agent to act on the hair for 5 to 30 minutes, d) rinsing the permanent agent with water, e) unwinding the hair, removing the curlers, f) removing the hair G) treating the conditioned hair with a setting agent containing an oxidizing agent as a main component; and h) rinsing the hair after the set agent has been activated.

The hair is preferably washed with a conventional shampoo before winding it on a curler. Processing step h)
Is preferably performed with water, but is sometimes performed using shampoo.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the method of the invention, the hair, preferably dried with a towel, is treated with a conditioning agent before being wound on a curler. The structure-modifying agent may consist of or contain an active substance, in which case it is preferably added to the damaged area of the hair, where it reduces the action of the permanent processing agent. Preferably, such agents are physiologically mild synthetic or natural hydrophobic oils or waxes. Specific examples of such oils or waxes include jojoba oil, avocado oil,
Sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, montan wax, ground wax, petrolatum and paraffin.

Preferably, the structure modifier is dissolved with a physiologically mild synthetic or natural hydrophobic oil or wax in a ratio of 50: 1 to 2: 1, preferably 40: 1 to 10: 1. Or at least 5% by weight of this mixture. The dissolution aid is ethoxylated with 2 to 200, preferably 5 to 60, ethylene oxide groups from the group consisting of fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty acid amides, fatty acid amines or fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Compound. A preferred solubilizer is castor oil oxyethylated with 5 to 60 ethylene oxide groups,
For example, hydrogenated castor oil oxyethylated with 7 ethylene oxide groups (for example, Alacel® 9 from ICI)
89) and hydrogenated castor oil oxyethylated with 40 ethylene oxide groups (eg Cremophor® RH40 from BASF).

Structure modifiers include physiologically mild synthetic or natural hydrophobic oils or waxes and hydrogenated castor oil oxyethylated with 40 ethylene oxide groups (eg, Cremophor® RH40 from BASF). Particular preference is given to mixtures consisting of 50: 1 to 2: 1 or containing at least 5% by weight of this mixture.

Preferably, this structural conditioner acts on the hair at elevated temperatures, especially at 30-45 ° C. For that purpose, it is preferable to use an infrared radiation device. Its action time is 3
~ 10 minutes is good. Subsequently, the hair is rinsed with water.

The curler used for the permanent wave in the method of the present invention has a diameter of 5 to 20 mm, depending on the desired wave result and hair condition. Curly thickness of 5-8mm is suitable especially for thin dripping hair, curler thickness of 8-10mm is suitable for medium hair, and thick hair is suitable for thick hair.
Curler thickness of 10-20mm is suitable. When in doubt, curlers should always choose the thinner. After the curling is finished, the permanent agent is evenly applied on the curled hair. The permanent processing agent
It is preferred to work at elevated temperatures, especially at 30-45 ° C. For this purpose, in particular infrared radiation devices (for example German Patent 40
18 186) or drying cap (Trockenha
ube) can be used. When a drying cap is used, it is preferable to cover the hair with a foil-shaped cap in advance to prevent the escape of moisture or alkali such as ammonia. At high temperatures, the duration of action is 20-25 minutes for non-oxidized hair and 15-25 for oxidized hair
20 minutes. The duration of action of the permanent processing agent is preferably determined by a known method using a test curler.

The hair keratin-reducing substance contained in the above-mentioned permanent processing agent is contained in an amount of 2 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 20% by weight, in the medicine that can be used immediately for permanent waving.
An amount of ~ 12 weight percent, and most preferably 4-10
It is added in a weight percent amount.

As the hair keratin reducing substance, for example, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, alkyl- or acylcysteamine or a salt of these compounds,
In addition, thioglycolic acid esters or sulphite salts can be added as a mixture with them, especially in the acidic pH range.

The permanent working agents which are ready for use have a pH value of preferably from 4 to 11, particularly preferably from 7 to 9.5. Suitable alkaline agents and pH regulators include, in particular, ammonia or caustic soda, as well as all other water-soluble salts of physiologically acceptable organic and inorganic bases, such as ammonium bicarbonate.

Since the processability of the permanent processing agent is excellent,
Smaller amounts may be used than are normally required for the hair property in question. For example, at pH = 8.5, ordinary fine hair typically requires a concentration of 8 weight percent thioglycolic acid. However, in the method of the present invention,
Permanent processing agents need only be used at about two-thirds the concentration of ordinary thioglycolic acid, ie, six percent by weight. This therefore represents a permanent treatment which is usually used for chemically severely damaged hair, for example oxidized hair.

The permanent processing agents can be prepared as one-, two- or three-component preparations, in which the agent is not only in the form of an aqueous solution or emulsion, but also in an aqueous concentrated form, in particular a cream, gel or paste It can also be.

That is, for example, the permanent processing agent can be obtained by mixing two components, wherein the first component is at least one kind of an alkali agent such as alkali carbonate, ammonium carbonate, alkali bicarbonate or ammonium bicarbonate, and hair. The keratin-reducing substance is contained, and the second component contains at least one cosmetic additive described later and water.

Similarly, the permanent processing agent can also be packaged in the form of a three component formulation, where one component contains some of the cosmetic additives described below and water, and the second anhydrous component is hair keratin reduction. Containing the active substance, the third component,
It contains other additives in aqueous or anhydrous form, such as fragrance oils, dissolution aids and protective agents.

In all permanent agent embodiments, the cosmetic component can be included in the aqueous component or in the non-aqueous component.

Of course, the above-mentioned permanent processing agents are common in such agents and are known in the art, such as thickeners such as bentonite, fatty acids, starch, polyacrylic acid and its derivatives, cellulose derivatives, alginate, petrolatum Paraffin oils; wetting or emulsifying agents from the class of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, such as fatty alcohol sulfates,
Fatty alcohol ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl benzene sulfates, quaternary ammonium salts, alkyl betaines, oxyethylated alkyl phenols, fatty acid alkanolamides or oxyethylated fatty acid esters; further turbidity agents such as polyethylene glycol esters; alcohols such as ethanol,
Propanol, isopropanol and glycerin; sugars
For example, D-glucose; solubilizers, stabilizers, buffer substances, fragrance oils, dyes and components for hair conditioning and styling, such as cationic polymers, lanolin derivatives, cholesterol, pantothenic acid and betaine.

The above ingredients are used in conventional amounts for such purposes, e.g. wetting agents and emulsifiers in a total amount of 0.2-30% by weight, alcohols in a total amount of 0.1-20% by weight, clouding agents, Perfume oil and dye are 0.01
Buffering substances in a total amount of 0.1-1
In an amount of 0 weight percent, the sugar, dissolution aid, stabilizer, and hairdressing and styling ingredients are each in an amount of 0.1 to 5 weight percent, and the thickener and dissolution aid are 0.5 to 20 in total.
The drug can be included in the drug in an amount of weight percent.

In addition, the agents are provided with so-called swelling and penetrating agents such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, 2-pyrrolidone or imidazolidin-
The 2-one may be added in an amount of 1 to 30 weight percent, as well as a dithio compound, such as dithioglycolic acid, dithiolactic acid, a dithiol of the above compound, or a respective salt thereof, to avoid over-curling of the hair, as well as from 1 to 30% by weight. It can be added in an amount of 30 weight percent.

As soon as the permanent treatment is sufficient, rinse the permanent treatment with water. The rinsing preferably lasts 2 to 4 minutes. Thereafter, it is preferable to absorb the wound material and lightly wipe with a napkin or towel.

 Finally, the hair is rewound and the curlers are removed.

In a preferred embodiment of the method of the present invention, a hair setting agent based on a hair setting polymer is then applied to the hair. In the case of a hair setting agent, a problem is a hair spray containing a propellant, a hair spray not containing a propellant, or a so-called immersion agent. Hair spray or immersion,
It is generally in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic or alcoholic preparation and contains from 0.5 to 20% by weight of a hair setting polymer. This hair setting agent is preferably sprayed.

Such hair setting polymers are, in particular, synthetic polymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl acetate, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylic acid, polyacrylamide,
Vinyl acetate-crotonic acid-copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate-copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone-methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride-copolymer, methyl vinyl ether- Maleic anhydride-copolymer, acrylamide-β-methacrylyloxyethyl chloride-trimethylammonium-copolymer, acrylic acid-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-copolymer, acrylate-methyl-, ethyl-, butyl- or propyl Copolymers of amides with methyl-, ethyl-, butyl- or propyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate-oleyl methacrylate-diethylaminoethyl methacrylate-terpolymer, vinyl acetate-vinyl propionate-croto Acid - a terpolymer - terpolymers, vinyl acetate - crotonic acid - polyethylene oxide - terpolymers and vinylpyrrolidone - vinyl acetate - vinyl propionate. Natural polymers such as chitosan or chitosan derivatives, Chinese balsam resins and shellac can also be used.

The polymer and the natural polymer are contained in the hair setting agent in amounts common for such agents, from 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight.

As alcohols, the drug contains the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms commonly used for cosmetic purposes, such as ethanol and isopropanol. These alcohols are in amounts of 15-85 weight percent,
It is preferably included in an amount of 25 to 75 weight percent. Hair setting agents are further hair cosmetic additives, such as balms, herbal extracts, keratin hydrolysates, fungicides or fungicides,
Dissolution aids for perfume oils, such as amphoteric or cationic surfactants, plasticizers such as phthalic acid esters or alkyl citrates, or hydrophobic substances such as silicone oils can be included in amounts up to 1 weight percent.

The hair setting agent may also be in the form of an aerosol-hair spray or an aerosol-hair rack. In this case, it further contains 15-85 weight percent propellant,
Filled into pressure vessel. Propellants include, for example, lower alkanes, such as n-butane, i-butane and propane or mixtures thereof with dimethyl ether, and also propellants which additionally exist in gaseous form at the pressures considered, for example N ₂ , N ₂ O And mixtures of CO ₂ and the above propellants.

The hair setting agent can also be in the form of a non-aerosol hair spray or a non-aerosol hair rack which can be sprayed with the aid of a suitable mechanically operated spray device. By mechanical spray device is meant a device capable of spraying a liquid without the use of a propellant.

A suitable mechanical spraying device can be, for example, a flexible container with a spray pump or a spray valve, which is filled with a hair setting agent under pressure, where the flexible air is The drug is continuously fired when the spray valve is opened as a result of the expansion and contraction of the flexible container.

This hair setting agent preferably has a pH value of 3 to 9.5. It is particularly preferred to adjust the pH to an acidic pH in the range of 3 to 6. For adjusting the pH value, it is preferable to use citric acid, lactic acid or glyoxalic acid.

After the treatment step e), optionally after application of a hair setting agent, in order to stabilize the hair setting, the hair is alternately set twice and then reprocessed by using a high temperature in the range from 30 to 55 ° C. .

After the initial hairdressing process, the hair is combed into the desired form with a comb, brush or finger, and at the same time or afterwards, the dense curly hair is turned into a large curled wave with a comb, brush or finger. In this case, it is preferred to carefully comb the hair into the desired form using an open comb. At the same time or thereafter, the curly hairs, which are generally still dense up to this point, are carefully rewound with a fine comb to create a natural large curled wave. For parts of the hair that have been particularly damaged by the effects of chemicals or the weather (eg, ultraviolet light), such as the forehead and temples,
It may be necessary to lengthen dense curly hair. After the method of the present invention, the hairdresser can make any curl rework in both directions (large or small) without haste, which has heretofore been impossible. A visually controllable uniform wave result before the set can be achieved. Thus, the safety and reproducibility of the result of the wave is easily assured for different hair qualities.

Then, the hair thus formed is heated at a high temperature,
Dry well, especially at 30-45 ° C, preferably with a drying cap with low air flow. After drying thoroughly, finally adjust the naturalness of the wave visually. If the hair shows a strong deformation characteristic of the styling (small curls), partially or at the tip, the hair part can be moistened with water or sprayed and lightly combed again.

In the second hairdressing process, the hair is suitable for hair styling or styling at high temperatures, in particular a round brush heated electrically or with warm air, or a round brush and fen (hair dryer, Fn) Comb into the desired form at high temperature. For this purpose, an ordinary fen-circle brush can be used, in which case it is preferred to have a metal part, since good thermal conductivity is guaranteed. The hair is drier in this case in a roll or curl.

The temperature of the air flow of the fen must be in the range of 30 to 55 ° C., in which case normal hair requires a high heat treatment and dyed hair requires a medium heat treatment.

Such first and second hairdressing processes may be combined with one another when desired. In principle, the process of styling is also possible at room temperature.

In a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, the hair is first washed with shampoo and then with water. Subsequently, the hair conditioner is evenly applied to the hair dried with a towel. Thereafter, the structure modifier is preferably acted at a high temperature for 3 to 10 minutes, especially 5 minutes.

After the end of the working time, the hair thus treated is rinsed with water.

Thereafter, the hair is divided into individual bundles and wrapped around a curler of 5 to 20 millimeters, preferably 5 to 12 millimeters.

The hair is then treated with a quantity sufficient for the set of hair, preferably 60-150 grams, with a slightly weaker adjustment to the quality of the hair as compared to ordinary permanents, in particular the aforementioned permanents. I do.

5-30 minutes (20-30 minutes without the action of heat) depending on the properties of the hair, the pH value and setting properties of the waving
After a period of action sufficient for a permanent wave of the hair (15 to 25 minutes with the action of heat), the hair is rinsed with water.

Thereafter, the curlers are gently wiped with a towel or a blotting napkin, the hair is rewound and, according to process step f), the hair is adjusted using one or a combination of both hairdressing methods.
It is preferable to apply such a hair setting agent to hair in advance. The setting agent for the subsequent processing step g) is preferably used in an amount of 80 to 100 grams, depending on the amount of hair.

For the oxidation treatment of treatment step g), any setting agent suitable for such treatment is used. Examples of oxidizing agents that can be used in such setting agents are potassium and sodium bromate, sodium perborate, urea peroxide and hydrogen peroxide. The concentration of the oxidizing agent depends on the time of use (generally 3 to 15).
Minutes) and the operating temperature. Usually, the oxidizing agent in the ready-to-use aqueous post-treatment agent is at a concentration of 0.4 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.4 to 5% by weight, and has a pH value of 2 to 7, preferably 2.2 to 3. Have. Agents for post-oxidation treatment are, of course, other materials, such as wetting agents,
It may contain a hair restorer, such as a cationically active polymer, a weak acid, a buffering substance or a peroxide stabilizer, and may be in the form of aqueous solutions, emulsions and concentrated forms of aqueous systems, especially creams, gels or pastes. These customary additives can be contained in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular in the aftertreatment.

It is particularly preferred to carry out the oxidative aftertreatment with a thinner setting agent, for example containing only 0.5 to 2 weight percent of hydrogen peroxide. In one particular form of the method, 2-5 liters of a thinner set agent (eg, an aqueous solution containing 0.5 weight percent hydrogen peroxide) is added to
Circulate from the basin with the help of a pump and hang on the hair. A corresponding pump is described, for example, in published German patent application 36 43 417. In addition to this method,
An ordinary set applicator, i.e. a coating vessel with a showerhead, can also be used. In applying the setting agent, care should generally be taken with careful treatment so as not to impair the already finished hair. In particular, when the hair is previously treated with a hair setting agent, it can be generally performed using the above-mentioned coating agent. Such a hair setting agent can be optionally stopped when the setting agent is sprayed on the hair in any number of steps.
When using gaseous oxidants, especially pure oxygen,
The use of hair setting agents can also be stopped.

In contrast to conventional experiments which only mimic the obvious facts by modifications of the known wave method, said method is superior in terms of mildness and protection to hair by using low concentrations of chemical agents, and At the same time, the durability of the set is excellent. Therefore, the essential difference from the conventional general wave method is that the set is not on the curler,
It also occurs on the finished hair.

The following examples illustrate the objects of the present invention in more detail, and the objects of the present invention are not limited to those examples.

EXAMPLES Example 1 Ordinary non-oxidized hair 25 cm in length is washed and dried with a towel and sprayed with 12 ml of a structure conditioner having the following formulation.

Structure modifier 33.0 g buxus chinensis (jojoba oil) 32.0 g helianthus annuus (sunflower oil) 31.0 g persea gratissima (avocado oil) 2.0 g Hydrogenated castor oil oxyethylated with 40 ethylene oxide groups (Cremophor (registered trademark)) RH40, BASF) 1.0g Hydrogenated castor oil oxyethylated with 7 ethylene oxide groups (ALACEL (registered trademark) 989, ICI) 0.1g Antioxidant 0.9g Water 100.0g Apply to the hair for 5 minutes with 5
Allow to act for a minute and then rinse the hair with plenty of water. Subsequently, the hair is wound on a curler having a diameter of 8 mm (neck region) and 10 mm (remaining hair). Then, a slightly alkaline solution having the following composition (pH = 8.
125 ml of the permanent treatment of 0) are applied to the wound hair.

Weakly alkaline permanent processing agent 9.2 g Ammonium thioglycolate 2.5 g Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 1.0 g Castor oil oxyethylated with 40 moles of ethylene oxide 1.0 g Polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride 1.0 g Cocoamidopropyl betaine 0.6 g Aromatic oil 0.4 g Ammonia, 84.3 g of a 25% aqueous solution 100.0 g of water The wrapped hair is exposed to an infrared radiation device (Climazone® from Ondal) as described in DE 40 18 186 for a working time of 20 minutes. The length of this working time was determined based on the test curler.
Thereafter, the wound hair is rinsed with running water for about 3 minutes,
Then gently wipe the wrap with a towel. Rewind this hair and remove the curlers. The hair was divided by applying 10 ml of a pH = 3 hair setting agent having the following formulation.

Hair setting agent 0.30 g polyvinylpyrrolidone 0.20 g 3-cocoamidopropyl-2-hydroxy-3-sulfopropyl-dimethylammonium-hydroxide (CTFA: cocoamidopropylhydroxysultaine) 0.20 g citric acid 0.15 g cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.10 g betaine 0.10 g polyoxyethylene (45) polyoxypropylene (33) monobutyl ether (CTFA: PP G-33-butes-45) 0.10 g glyceryl stearate 0.10 g stearyl alcohol 0.10 g keratin hydrolyzate 98.65 g water 100.00 g Then, the individual hair bundles are carefully combed with a coarse comb so as to obtain a desired hairstyle. Especially in the area of the forehead and temples, the dense frizz is carefully unwound using a fine eye comb, which results in a natural curly curl. Then, the hairstyle thus formed (without plastic hood) is placed at 40 ° C under a drying cap with a weak airflow (about a medium blower).
Heat for 10 minutes and dry. The shrinkage in temples is
Due to the denseness, in this area the hair is moistened (sprayed) with a little water and further rewound with a fine comb. Subsequently, 500 ml of a setting agent having the following composition is uniformly applied to the hair from an ordinary setting agent applicator (application container having a shower head).

Setting agent 1.00 g Hydrogen peroxide 0.02 g Orthophosphoric acid 0.01 g Salicylic acid 98.97 g Water 100.00 g After allowing the setting agent to act for 4 minutes, the hair is rinsed with a large amount of water for 2 minutes. The hair is then dried and combed or dried to curl. Such hair is durable, uniform, natural and retains large curls.

Example 2 Medium thick, non-oxidized hair of 20 cm length was washed, dried with a towel and sprayed with 10 ml of the structure conditioner described in Example 1. The structure modifier is applied by hand to the hair and allowed to act for 4 minutes using an infrared radiation device, after which the hair is rinsed with a large amount of water. Subsequently, the hair was removed for 8 mm (neck region) and 10 m
Wrap on a curler with a diameter of m (remaining hair). Then, “neutral” having the following formulation (pH = 7.
81 ml of the permanent processing agent of 5) is applied to the wound hair.

Neutral permanent processing agent consisting of two components Component A 94.6 g Ammonium thioglycolate, 70% aqueous solution 5.4 g Cysteine hydrochloride 100.0 g (pH = 6.0) Component B 0.8 g ammonia, 25% aqueous solution 0.5 g Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 2.0 g lauryl Alcohol, oxyethylated with 4 moles of ethylene oxide 1.0 g Polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride 1.0 g Fragrance oil 0.5 g Vinylpyrrolidone-styrene-copolymer 0.5 g Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 93.7 g Water 100.00 g It has a pH value of 8.5. Before use, 15 g of the above component A and 65 g of the above component B are mixed to give 81 g of a ready-to-use hair deforming agent having a pH of 7.5.

The wrapped hair is exposed to an infrared radiation device (Climazone® from Ondal) as described in DE 40 18 186 for a working time of 22 minutes. afterwards,
The wrapped hair is rinsed with running water for about 3 minutes, then the wrap is gently wiped with a towel. Rewind this hair and remove the curlers. Then, 9 ml of the hair setting agent described in Example 1 was applied to separate the hair.

Then, the individual hair bundles are carefully combed with a coarse comb so as to obtain a desired hairstyle. Especially in the area of the forehead and temples, the dense frizz is carefully unwound using a fine eye comb, which results in a natural curly curl. Then, the hairstyle thus formed (without plastic hood) is placed in a weak air stream (about a medium blower) at 40 ° C under a drying cap.
Heat for a minute and let dry. The wrinkles in the temples are so dense that in this area the hair is moistened (sprayed) with a little water and rewound into the dish with a fine comb. Subsequently, 500 ml of the setting agent described in Example 1 was obtained from a normal setting agent applicator (application container having a shower head).
Is applied evenly to the hair.

After allowing the setting agent to act for 5 minutes, the hair is rinsed with plenty of water for 2 minutes. The hair is then dried and combed or dried to curl. Such hair is durable, uniform, natural and retains large curls.

Example 3 Medium-sized, non-oxidized hair having a length of 20 cm was washed, dried with a towel, and sprayed with 15 ml of the structural conditioner described in Example 1. The structure modifier is applied by hand to the hair and allowed to act for 4 minutes using an ultraviolet radiation device, after which the hair is rinsed with a large amount of water. Subsequently, the hair was removed for 8 mm (neck region) and 10.
Wrap on a curler with a diameter of 5 mm (remaining hair). Then, 125 ml of a weak alkaline (pH = 8.0) permanent processing agent having the following formulation is applied to the wound hair.

Weak alkaline permanent processing agent 7.0 g Ammonium thioglycolate 2.0 g Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 1.2 g Lauryl alcohol oxyethylated with 4 mol of ethylene oxide 1.5 g Polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride 0.5 g Cocoamidopropyl betaine 0.8 g Aromatic oil 0.2 g Ammonia, 86.8 g of a 25% aqueous solution 100.0 g of water The wrapped hair is exposed to an infrared radiation device for a working time of 18 minutes. The wrapped hair is then rinsed with running water for about 3 minutes, and then the wrap is gently wiped with a towel. Rewind this hair and remove the curlers.
Then, 12 ml of the hair setting agent described in Example 1 was applied to separate the hair.

Then, the individual hair bundles are carefully combed and dried using a fen (medium hot air level = 47 ° C.) and a round brush to obtain a desired hairstyle. Particularly in the forehead and temple area, the dense frizz is carefully rewound using a round brush, which results in a natural curly curl. The wrinkles in the temples are so dense that in this area the hair is moistened (sprayed) with a small amount of water and further rewound with a fine comb. Subsequently, 500 ml of the setting agent described in Example 1 is uniformly applied to the hair from a usual setting agent applicator (application container having a shower head).

After allowing the setting agent to act for 4 minutes, the hair is rinsed with plenty of water for 2 minutes. The hair is then dried and combed or dried to curl. Such hair is durable, uniform, natural and retains large curls.

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (31) Priority claim number 19540492.0 (32) Priority date October 23, 1995 (33) Priority claim country Germany (DE)

Claims (33)

(57) [Claims] 1. A method for permanent processing of hair, comprising: a) wrapping hair around a curler; b) applying a permanent processing agent based on a hair keratin reducing substance to the wound hair; c) allowing the permanent processing agent to act on the hair for 5-30 minutes; d) rinsing the permanent processing agent with water; e) unwinding the hair and removing the curlers; f) setting the hair; and g) setting the hair. A permanent hair treatment method comprising: treating hair with a setting agent containing an oxidizing agent as a main component; and h) rinsing the hair after the setting agent has been activated. 2. In the processing step f), the hair is combed with a comb, a brush or a finger into a desired form, and simultaneously or afterwards, the curls of the dense ends are greatly curled with a comb, a brush or a finger. 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the hairstyle is dried at an elevated temperature. 3. In the processing step f), the hair is combed at a high temperature with a circular brush heated by an electric or hot air or a circular brush and a hair dryer to obtain a desired hairstyle. 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the method is performed. 4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the setting agent is rinsed with water or washed off with shampoo. 5. The method according to claim 1, wherein the hair is washed with a shampoo before winding it on a curler. 6. The method according to claim 1, wherein the hair is wrapped around a curler.
The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the method is treated with a structure modifier. 7. The method according to claim 1, wherein the structure-modifying agent contains or consists of an active substance, and is added to a damaged portion of the hair to reduce the effect of the permanent processing agent at that position. Item 7. The method according to Item 6. 8. The method according to claim 7, wherein the active substance is a physiologically mild synthetic or natural hydrophobic oil or wax. 9. The method according to claim 8, wherein said active substance is jojoba oil, avocado oil,
9. The method according to claim 8, wherein the method is selected from sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, montan wax, ground wax, petrolatum and paraffin. 10. The structure-modifying agent comprises a physiologically mild synthetic or natural hydrophobic oil or wax and a solubilizing agent in a ratio of 50: 1.
Consist of a mixture containing a weight ratio of ~ 2: 1 or
The method of claim 7, wherein the mixture contains at least 5% by weight. 11. The method according to claim 1, wherein said solubilizing agent is ethoxylated with 2 to 200 ethylene oxide groups selected from the group consisting of fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, fatty acid esters, fatty acid amides, fatty acid amines and fatty alcohols. 11. The method according to claim 10, wherein the compound is an isolated compound. 12. The ethoxylated fatty acid ester according to claim 5, wherein
12. The method according to claim 11, which is hydrogenated castor oil oxyethylated with up to 60 ethylene oxide groups. 13. The method according to claim 1, wherein the structure modifier is acted on at an elevated temperature. 14. The structure-modifying agent is added at 30-45 ° C. for 3-10 minutes.
The method according to claim 1, wherein the method is operated at a temperature of: 15. The method according to claim 1, wherein the curler has a diameter of 5 to 20 mm. 16. The hair keratin-reducing substance is contained in a permanent processing agent in an amount of 2 to 20% by weight, and comprises thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, alkyl- or acylcysteamine or sulfurous acid. The salt is selected from a salt.
16. The method according to any one of 15 above. 17. The method according to claim 1, wherein the hair keratin reducing substance is contained in the permanent processing agent in an amount of 4 to 10% by weight. . 18. The method according to claim 1, wherein the processing step c) is performed at an elevated temperature of 30 to 45 ° C. 19. The method according to claim 18, wherein an infrared radiation device or a drying cap in combination with a metal foil head is used to obtain the high temperature. 20. The action time of the permanent processing agent is as follows:
20 for typical conventional non-oxidized hair
~ 25 minutes, 15-20 for oxidized hair
20. The method of claim 19, wherein the minutes are minutes. 21. The method according to claim 1, wherein the exact duration of action of the permanent agent is determined in a known manner using a test curler. 22. The method according to claim 1, wherein after the step d), the curled hair is sucked off and lightly wiped with a napkin or a towel. 23. The method according to claim 1, wherein after the treatment step e), a hair setting agent mainly comprising a hair setting polymer is applied to the hair. 24. The hair setting agent is a hair spray or immersion agent in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic or alcoholic preparation and contains 0.5 to 20% by weight of a hair setting polymer. 24. The method of claim 23, wherein the method comprises: 25. The hair setting polymer according to claim 1, wherein the synthetic polymer is polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl acetate, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylic acid, polyacrylamide, vinyl acetate-crotonic acid copolymer, vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer. Polymer, vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone-methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride-copolymer, methylvinyl ether-maleic anhydride-copolymer, acrylamide-β-methacrylyloxyethyl chloride -Trimethylammonium-copolymer, acrylic acid-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-
Copolymer, methyl-acrylate, ethyl-, butyl-acrylate
Or a copolymer of propylamide and acrylate-methyl-, ethyl-, butyl- or propyl ester, ethyl methacrylate-oleyl methacrylate-diethylaminoethyl methacrylate-terpolymer, vinyl acetate-vinyl propionate-crotonate- Terpolymer, vinyl acetate-crotonic acid-polyethylene oxide terpolymer and vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl acetate-vinyl propionate terpolymer, and a natural polymer, chitosan, balsam resin and shellac in China. 25. The method according to claim 23, wherein the method is characterized in that: 26. The method according to claim 25, wherein said hair setting agent has a pH value in the range of 3 to 9.5. 27. The method according to claim 2, wherein the drying of the curled hair in the treatment step f) is carried out at a high temperature of 30 to 45 ° C. 28. The method according to claim 27, wherein a drying cap is used to obtain said high temperature. 29. The method according to claim 3, wherein the combing for obtaining a desired hairstyle is carried out at a high temperature of 30 to 55 ° C. in the processing step f). . 30. The oxidizing agent contained in the setting agent in the treatment step g) has a concentration of 0.4 to 10% by weight and is selected from potassium and sodium bromates, sodium perborate, urea peroxide and hydrogen peroxide. 30. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 29, wherein the method comprises: 31. The oxidizing agent contained in the setting agent in the processing step g) is hydrogen peroxide, and is 0.5 to 2%.
31. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 30, wherein the concentration is by weight. 32. The processing described in the processing step g) is as follows:
The method according to any one of claims 1 to 31, wherein the method is performed using a gaseous oxidizing agent. 33. The method according to claim 32, wherein said oxidizing agent is pure oxygen.