JP2006523779A - Yarn, in particular synthetic multi-strand yarn mechanical processing method and apparatus, and yarn produced by the method - Google Patents

Abstract

In order to produce yarns having tactile properties similar to those of natural cotton, continuous multi-strand synthetic yarns (F) are produced in particular by air textile processing. The yarn is processed by grinding or other mechanical processing by breaking some of the continuous strands to produce short fibers that protrude from the body of the yarn.

Description

The present invention relates to a method of treating yarn to obtain softness and “hand” characteristics, and an apparatus for carrying out this method.
The invention also relates to a yarn treated by the above method.

  Yarns, known as “Taslan” (trade name), are often used in the manufacture of clothing, in particular sports clothing, and other uses, for example the production of fabrics for the function of chair-hanging fibers. This yarn is made by a continuous strand type synthetic yarn, in other words a yarn composed of continuous filaments. Taslan is made by a method called air-texturing. In this method, one or more yarns, each consisting of continuous strands or filaments, are inserted into a nozzle that strikes the yarn with a jet of compressed air. The turbulence generated by this jet causes loops, curls and swelling (expansion) in individual strands or filaments, and is trapped in the fiber structure. In this way, an essentially inelastic yarn with high bulk processing (bulky) is produced.

  Usually, at least two yarns are fed to the textile nozzle, one being made to form what is known as the core of the yarn and the other being made to create a surface effect. These yarns are referred to as core yarns and effect yarns. The core yarn forms a fixed part of a loop or curl formed of strands, in other words continuous filaments of effect yarns.

  Methods and apparatus for performing this type of process are described in US Pat.

  These yarns have a number of advantages including high tenacity and low cost. However, in the production of clothing, these yarns are limited by their synthetic properties and typically not as a result of the softness of natural yarns such as cotton. Therefore, clothing made with this yarn is not always pleased by the end customer.

US Pat. No. 4,041,583 US Pat. No. 4,492,009 U.S. Pat. No. 4,507,833 US Pat. No. 5,054,174 US Pat. No. 5,140,729 US Pat. No. 5,142,754 US Pat. No. 5,241,730 US Pat. No. 5,713,113 US Pat. No. 6,088,892 US Pat. No. 6,148,490 US Pat. No. 6,354,069

  It is an object of the present invention to provide a process for producing yarns with good tactile properties, in particular for making garments, especially from air-spun yarns.

  In particular, these effects are obtained according to the invention by the treatment of a woven yarn characterized in that the woven yarn is subjected to a mechanical surface treatment, in particular an abrasive treatment, using a fixed or movable grinder.

  The term “mechanical treatment” means a treatment capable of breaking the fibers or filaments forming the yarn. In particular, the polishing process has the advantage that not only the breaking of the fibers or filaments, but also the withdrawal of the broken fibers or filaments from the yarn body. This treatment increases the softness of the yarn and improves the feel of the fibers.

  In one particular embodiment, a motor driven grinder with a conical surface is used for this purpose.

In one particular embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises:
Forming a synthetic yarn consisting of a number of continuous strands or filaments;
Mechanically treating the synthetic yarn to break at least one of the continuous strands or filaments and form a number of discontinuous fibers protruding from the synthetic yarn;
including.

  Advantageously and preferably, the yarn to be treated is an air-spun yarn made by “taslan” or similar treatment consisting of at least one synthetic thread formed of continuous strands or filaments.

In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the treatment comprises
Forming a composite synthetic yarn comprising (a) a multi-strand processed yarn comprising continuous strands or filaments forming a core and (b) a multi-strand effect yarn comprising continuous strands or filaments joined by air spinning to the core. And a process of
Mechanically treating the composite synthetic yarn to interrupt continuity of at least some of the continuous strands or filaments forming the effect yarn;
including.

  In an improved embodiment of the invention, the yarn is stretched (stretched) and the mechanical surface treatment is stretched to stabilize the yarn and avoid the tendency to shrink or shorten after processing. Done in the yarn area. Once this was done, it was found that the treated yarns did not tend to shrink, especially when subjected to dyeing or other wet treatments. Stretching can range from 4% to 5%, more typically from 3% to 6% when interpreted as a percentage stretch with respect to the original yarn length. However, it should be understood that other degrees of stretch processing other than those indicated may be used.

  By means of the treatment according to the invention, it is possible to produce yarns having a tactile characteristic very similar to that of natural cotton yarns from pneumatic textile synthetic yarns. This is because continuous strands or filaments that are broken by mechanical breakage or equivalent treatment form a free end protruding from the yarn, giving the same effect as a short fiber type natural yarn.

  The result is a product that is as low as the cost of synthetic yarn and yet has the feel and feel of cotton. The produced yarns also have the advantages of synthetic yarns in terms of mechanical strength and tenacity, which are useful during spinning, and can reduce the frequency of yarn cutting and the resulting stop time.

  Furthermore, the release of yarn fluff and fibers produced in accordance with the present invention is less than would be found in natural yarn because the cut strands are trapped in the body of the yarn, resulting in advantages in the production of the final product. It is.

  The produced yarn can be dyed at a temperature (usually 80 ° C.) lower than the temperature (usually 120 ° C.) when dyeing the cotton fiber yarn, which is advantageous in terms of dyeing treatment. This has an economic effect because the energy used for the dyeing process is low.

  In a different aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a mechanical surface treatment, typically at least for polishing, having a yarn passageway and arranged along the passageway to mechanically surface the yarn. The present invention relates to a yarn manufacturing apparatus having one element.

  In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the invention also comprises a stretch element, which forces the yarn to stretch in the area that is subjected to mechanical treatment. The element for mechanical surface treatment acts on the yarn under stretch so that it can reduce the tendency of the yarn to shrink after the grinding treatment, for example during the dyeing process.

  In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the device comprises an air textile system provided upstream of the surface treatment element. In this case, the yarn to be treated is an air-spun yarn, such as what is known as a “taslan” yarn.

  Further advantageous features and embodiments of the device and method according to the invention are indicated in the claims and will be explained in detail with reference to the embodiments.

  In another aspect of the present invention, the present invention relates to a woven yarn composed of fibers formed by breaking relatively long filaments by mechanical processing. Advantageously, the yarn consists at least partly (and preferably as a whole) of synthetic filaments. In certain embodiments, the yarn may be an air-spun yarn having a number of discontinuous fibers formed by breaking a number of continuous synthetic strands or filaments and at least some of the continuous filaments by mechanical processing. .

  The invention will be more clearly understood from the accompanying drawings and the following description, which illustrate specific and non-limiting embodiments of the invention.

  FIG. 1 shows a schematic side view of an apparatus according to the invention. This device has two yarn supply passages, indicated respectively by F1 and F2, which are taken out from a package or reel positioned in a creel not shown. The yarn F1 is supplied via a first pair of rollers having different diameters indicated by 3A and 5A and a second pair of rollers having different diameters indicated by 3B and 5B. The peripheral speed of these rollers can be controlled to give the yarn F1 an appropriate stretching process according to the type of final product to be obtained.

  The yarn F2 follows a path that passes around two pairs of rollers of different diameters, indicated by reference numerals 7A, 9A, 7B, 9B, which are essentially identical to the rollers 3A, 5A, 3B, 5B.

  In a known manner, rollers 3A, 3B, 7A, 7B are motor driven rollers, while 5A, 5B, 7B, 9B are idle rollers used to guide the yarn in the correct manner.

  The two yarns F1, F2 are both synthetic yarns consisting of parallel continuous filaments or strands. These yarns can be, for example, POY, PES, PP, viscose or other yarns with fine or very fine filaments. Yarn F1 is made to form the core of the textile yarn, while yarn F2 forms the outer part of the textile yarn, forming the effect yarn, in other words the curl or loop that increases the volume of the final yarn with strands or filaments. It is a yarn made to do. It is also possible to supply two or more yarns as a variable number of core yarns and effect yarns. In practice, the core yarn is fed at a constant rate, while the effect yarn is over-fed to make a sufficient amount of the effect yarn available to the textile nozzle.

  The two yarns F1, F2 are designated generally by the reference numeral 11 after being made into a suitable stretch ratio that can be independently selected for the two yarns according to principles known to those skilled in the art. Supplied to compressed air textile or bulky nozzle.

  The textile nozzle 11 may comprise, for example, a HamaJet (registered trademark) LB nozzle or a HamaJet (registered trademark) EO-52 nozzle, both nozzles being manufactured by Heberlein (Germany) or the textile nozzle 11 May consist of another nozzle for use of the same type, for example a nozzle made by one or more of the above mentioned patent documents.

  The devices that have been described so far are known and therefore the processes carried out are also known.

  The yarn F leaving the textile jet or nozzle 11 is a high volume air textile yarn. This yarn F travels around a first pair of rollers 13A, 15A having different diameters and having the same shape as the rollers 3A, 5A, 7A, 9A, and the roller 13A having the larger diameter is driven by a motor. The Yarn F forms a set of turns around this pair of rollers. A second pair of rollers 13B and 15B, which are essentially the same as the rollers 13A and 15A and differing in diameter, are disposed along the path of the yarn F, the roller 13B is motor driven, and the roller 15B (similar to the roller 15A) Is a play roller and is used to guide the yarn correctly. The yarn F also forms a set of turns around this second pair of rollers 13B, 15B and from there runs continuously along the path towards a known type of winding system. Winds a yarn on a wound fiber tube to form a package or reel B.

  In particular, as shown in FIGS. 2 and 3, the belt 21 receives a motion from a pulley 23 that is coaxial with the roller 13A and integral with the roller 13A, and transmits the motion to a pulley 25 that is coaxial with the roller 13B. The roller 13A is driven by a motor, and its rotational motion is transmitted to the roller 13B by the belt 21. By appropriately selecting the diameter of the pulleys 23, 25 (suitably toothed as well as the belt 21), different peripheral speeds can be applied to the two rollers 13A, 13B, whereby the yarn F For example, it is suitably stretched 3-6%.

  The path of the belt 21 is additionally determined by a tensioning device 27, so that the belt 21 imparts motion to a pulley 28 that is keyed to the rotational axis AA of the conical grinder 29. The rotation axis AA of the grinder 29 is parallel to the rotation axes of the rollers 13A and 13B. The shaft of the grinder 29, the pulley 28 and the corresponding support are carried by a swing arm 30 that rotates about an axis that is concentric with the axis of the roller 13B. The swinging motion of the arm 30 is controlled manually or by an actuator (not shown). Therefore, the grinder can take the operating position indicated by the solid line in FIG. 2 and the position for inserting the yarn F that has been raised relative to the operating position indicated by the dotted line in FIG.

  The conical grinder 29 is positioned along the portion of the path of the yarn F that extends between the two rollers 13A and 13B. In other words, the conical grinder 29 is expanded and contracted by the difference in peripheral speed between the two rollers 13A and 13B. Is positioned along the position where is in an extended state. This part is also provided with two yarn guides 31, 33 upstream and downstream of the grinder with respect to the forward direction of the yarn F.

  As can be seen in particular in FIG. 3, these yarn guides are arranged in a line in which the yarn F guided by the two yarn guides and running around the grinder 29 is inclined with respect to the grinder axis of rotation AA. The guide groove of the yarn F which is slightly shifted from each other so as to come into contact with the grinder is provided. With this construction, the self-cleaning action of the grinder is obtained, the grinder is prevented from dulling, and the yarn residue is prevented from accumulating on the grounder. A self-cleaning action can also be obtained without shifting the yarn guide by using a suitable shape, for example a conical grinder. Alternatively, a staggered guide can be used with a cylindrical grinder to obtain a self-cleaning action as a result of the tilted position of the contact line between the grinder and yarn.

  The grinder 29 is housed together with the yarn guides 31 and 33 and the rollers 13B and 15B in a chamber 37 having an opening through which the yarn F passes. The inside of the chamber 37 is slightly negative by a suction line 39 connected to a suction system. Maintained at pressure. Thereby, the textile fiber residue generated by the grinding action of the grinder 29 in the yarn F can be collected and removed.

  The apparatus described above operates as follows. The core and effect yarns F1 and F2 are appropriately stretched and fed to the air weaving nozzle 11, and the resulting yarn F travels around the roller 13A. The speed of the rollers 3A, 3B, 7A, 7B is controlled according to the speed of the roller 13A so that the speed is the most stable ratio according to the properties of the textile yarn to be produced. This adjustment can be carried out on the basis of what is known in the production of known types of pneumatic textile yarns.

  The resulting yarn F is provided with a curl or loop that is secured to the core yarn and formed by the turbulent flow of compressed air at the textile nozzle 11. Since the strands or filaments forming the yarn F are continuous, the loops or curls are also continuous, in other words, each strand or filament coming out of the yarn base enters the yarn base again without interruption. ing.

  The yarn F coming out of the nozzle 11 travels around the rollers 13A and 13B, and is preferably stretched and processed at a rate of 3% to 6%, more preferably 4% to 5%. In the stretched region, the yarn F is subjected to mechanical processing by the grinder 29. The grinding action of the grinder is accompanied by some of the yarns that come out of the filaments in the form of continuous strands, or curls or loops, and in fact result in relatively short fibers protruding at random ends from the yarn. Is broken. In this way, the yarn is given a tactile feel similar to that of a natural cotton yarn, in other words a yarn formed by the bonding of discontinuous fibers.

  It will be appreciated that the mechanical processing of the yarn can also be performed by different types of tools. In particular, it has been found that a single grinder provides sufficient polishing around the yarn, but more than one grinder can be used around the yarn axis. It is also possible to use a fixed abrasive element to rub the yarn as a result of the yarn feed movement.

FIG. 4 shows three parts of the yarn for comparison, namely the yarn according to the invention (processed yarn A)
Cotton yarn (yarn B)
Taslan yarn (thread C)
Is shown.

  In practice, a taslan yarn comprises continuous strands or filaments that form curls or loops that reenter the yarn. Conversely, in yarns mechanically treated with a grinder 29, the presence of interrupted fibers having a free end protruding from the main body of the yarn and having a structure very similar to that of natural cotton (yarn B) may be observed. it can. FIG. 5 shows a comparison of the yarn part according to the invention (processed yarn A) and the natural cotton yarn part (yarn B), the former yarn being made from a continuous multi-strand yarn. It can be seen more clearly that the structure is similar.

 It should be understood that the attached drawings are merely illustrative of embodiments of the invention, and that the embodiments of the invention may be modified in form and configuration without departing from the scope of the principles of the invention.

1 is a schematic side view showing the entire apparatus according to the present invention. FIG. 2 is an enlarged view of details of FIG. 1. Sectional drawing along line III-III in FIG. 3 is an enlarged photograph of three yarn parts, yarns treated according to the present invention, cotton yarns and taslan yarns. 2 is an enlarged photograph of two yarn parts, a yarn treated according to the present invention and a cotton yarn.

Claims (26)

  A method for treating a woven yarn, characterized by mechanically treating the woven yarn.   The method for treating a woven yarn according to claim 1, wherein the surface treatment is a polishing treatment. Forming a synthetic yarn consisting of a number of continuous strands or filaments;
Mechanically treating the synthetic yarn to break at least one of the continuous strands or filaments and form a number of discontinuous fibers protruding from the synthetic yarn;
The processing method of the textile yarn of Claim 1 characterized by the above-mentioned.   4. The method of treating a woven yarn according to claim 3, wherein the synthetic yarn is an air-spun yarn. Forming a composite synthetic yarn comprising (a) a multi-strand processed yarn comprising continuous strands or filaments forming a core and (b) a multi-strand effect yarn comprising continuous strands or filaments joined by air spinning to the core. And a process of
Mechanically treating the composite synthetic yarn to interrupt continuity of at least some of the continuous strands or filaments forming the effect yarn;
The processing method of the textile yarn as described in any one of Claims 1-4 characterized by including.   The method for treating a woven yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the yarn is stretched and the mechanical surface treatment is performed in a stretched yarn region.   The method for treating a woven yarn according to claim 6, wherein the yarn is stretched and processed in a range of 3% to 6%, preferably in a range of 4% to 5%.   The method for treating a woven yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the mechanical surface treatment is carried out by a grinder rotating around a rotation axis.   The method of treating a woven yarn according to claim 8, wherein the yarn is guided so as to come into contact with the grinder along a line inclined with respect to the rotation axis of the grounder.   10. The method for treating a woven yarn according to claim 8, wherein the grounder has a conical shape.   An apparatus for producing a yarn, comprising: a yarn passage, and having at least one element for mechanical surface treatment of the yarn arranged along the passage and mechanically surface-treating the yarn.   12. The yarn manufacturing apparatus according to claim 11, wherein the mechanical surface treatment element is a polishing element.   Having a stretch element for stretching the yarn along a portion of the supply passage, wherein the at least one surface treatment element acts on the yarn along the portion of the passage for stretching the yarn. The yarn manufacturing apparatus according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that:   An air textile system provided upstream of the surface treatment element, wherein the yarn is an air textile yarn comprising at least one continuous strand or filament, the continuity of the continuous strand or filament being for the surface treatment The yarn manufacturing apparatus according to claim 11, wherein the yarn manufacturing apparatus is blocked by an element of the yarn.   15. The yarn production apparatus according to claim 14, wherein the pneumatic textile system comprises at least one textile nozzle fed with at least two continuous yarns, each consisting of a number of continuous strands or filaments.   A mechanical surface treatment comprising two rollers positioned along the path of the yarn and wound by the yarn; the peripheral speeds of the two rollers being different from each other for expanding and contracting the yarn; The yarn manufacturing apparatus according to any one of claims 11 to 15, characterized in that a working element is positioned between the two rollers.   The yarn manufacturing apparatus according to any one of claims 11 to 16, wherein the element for mechanical surface treatment is combined with a suction system for sucking a residue generated in the polishing treatment.   18. The yarn manufacturing apparatus according to claim 11, wherein the mechanical surface treatment element is a grinder that rotates around a rotation axis.   19. The yarn manufacturing apparatus according to claim 18, comprising two yarn guides arranged upstream and downstream of the grinder along the yarn path.   20. The yarn guides of claim 19, wherein the yarn guides are configured to interdigitate to contact the grinder and position the yarn along a line that is inclined with respect to the rotational axis of the grounder. Yarn manufacturing equipment.   21. The yarn manufacturing apparatus according to claim 18, 19 or 20, wherein the grounder is a conical grinder.   A woven yarn comprising fibers formed by breaking relatively long filaments by mechanical treatment.   23. A woven yarn according to claim 22, characterized in that it consists at least partly of synthetic filaments.   24. A woven yarn according to claim 23, comprising a number of continuous synthetic strands or filaments, wherein the fibers are formed by breaking at least some of the continuous filaments by mechanical treatment.   25. A woven yarn according to claim 24, which is an air-woven yarn. A core formed of continuous strands or filaments, and an effect yarn woven and knitted into the cores, formed of continuous strands or filaments, and blocking at least some of the continuous strands or filaments. 25. The woven yarn according to 25.

Images