JP2006249602A - Connection part of fabric, clothes and method for producing clothes - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for producing clothes, which hardly causes wrinkles by shrinkage on a stitched part even by repeated washing and has a simple connection method and a low cost. <P>SOLUTION: The connection part has a constitution that a first fabric is folded with laying a first surface 11 inside, the first surface 11b of a main body part of the first fabric is brought into contact with the first surface 21a of a folded part of a second fabric, a sheetlike member 30 is nipped between the main body part 20b of the second fabric and the folded part 20a, the main body part 10b of the first fabric is seamed 50 to the folded part 20a of the second fabric, the seam 50 does not reach the sheetlike member, the main body part 20b of the second fabric, the sheetlike member 30, the folded part 10a of the first fabric and the main body part 10b of the first fabric are seamed 60 and the second surface 22b of the main body part of the second fabric is thermally bonded to the thermal bonding surface 31 of the sheetlike member. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a bonded portion of fabric, clothing, or a method for manufacturing clothing. More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a garment by sewing a stitched portion of fabric or a fabric. The clothing here includes not only finished products such as shirts but also semi-finished products.

  Conventionally, when clothes are repeatedly washed, wrinkles due to shrinkage are likely to occur at the stitched portion. In particular, in a shirt or the like, when such a wrinkle is generated at a place visible from the outside, the appearance is greatly impaired.

  Such shrinkage and wrinkle are considered to be mainly due to the fact that the reduction of the sewing thread by washing is larger than the reduction of the fabric.

  Inventions relating to a method of manufacturing a garment for preventing such shrinkage and wrinkle are already known (see, for example, Patent Documents 1, 2, and 3).

  In Patent Documents 1, 2, and 3, the garment component (fabric) is appropriately folded and sewn together with a bonding element made of a heat-adhesive substance, and then the heat-adhesive substance is melted by heating and pressurization, thereby forming the garment composition. It is disclosed that the elements are firmly bonded, the stitched portion is prevented from shrinking, and wrinkles are prevented.

JP-A-7-310276 JP-A-10-280215 JP-A-11-200237

  However, these garment manufacturing methods in the prior art are time consuming and tend to be expensive to manufacture, and have not been fully put into practical use.

  That is, in the invention described in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 7-310276 (Patent Document 1), as shown in FIGS. 3 and 4, first, the first clothing component 20, the second clothing component 22, and the coupling element. Although the three members 32 are shifted from each other and stitched together, in actuality, it is difficult to position them, which takes time and increases the manufacturing cost.

  The invention described in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-280215 (Patent Document 2) relates to the attachment of a pocket, but on the second garment component 40 so as to wrap the coupling strip 34 at the edge of the first garment component 20. In order to position, it is necessary to temporarily fix or sew the first garment component 20 and the connecting strip 34, which is troublesome.

  In the invention described in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-200237 (Patent Document 3), the first garment component 18 and the second garment component 20 are folded and then stitches 40 and 42 are inserted. It is necessary to temporarily fix or sew, which takes time.

    The present invention provides a method for manufacturing a garment that is not only difficult to cause wrinkles due to shrinkage in the sutured part even when washing is repeated, but also does not take time, is simple in the joining method, and is low in cost. And providing a bonded portion of the fabric is a problem to be solved.

In order to solve the above-mentioned problem, the bonded portion of the fabric of the present invention according to claim 1 includes a first fabric, a second fabric, and a thermal bonding surface on which at least one surface has a thermal adhesive substance layer. A joint portion of a fabric including at least a certain sheet-like member,
The first fabric and the second fabric are folded to form a main body portion and a folded portion,
One surface of each of the first fabric and the second fabric is a first surface, and the other surface is a second surface.
The first fabric is folded with the first surface inside,
The first surface of the body portion of the first fabric is in contact with the first surface of the folded portion of the second fabric,
A sheet-like member is sandwiched between the main body portion and the folded portion of the second fabric,
The body portion of the first fabric and the folded portion of the second fabric are stitched, and this stitching does not reach the sheet-like member,
The body part of the second fabric, the sheet-like member, the folded part of the first fabric, and the body part of the first fabric are stitched,
The second portion of the main body portion of the second fabric is a bonded portion of the fabric, wherein the second surface is thermally bonded to the heat bonding surface of the sheet-like member.

  Hereinafter, terms and the like of claim 1 will be described. These explanations are the same for other claims unless otherwise specified.

  “Thermo-adhesive substance” is a substance that can be melted by heating and adhere fabrics, and is, for example, a thermo-meltable resin. Low melting point synthetic resins such as polyamide-based, polyester-based, polyethylene-based, polyurethane-based, polyvinyl chloride-based, polyvinyl acetate-based, and acrylic-based resins can be used as heat-meltable resins. From the viewpoint of softening the texture and the like, polyethylene is preferred. The melting point of the thermoadhesive material is suitably 140 ° C to 160 ° C.

  As the “sheet-like member” that is a binding medium using this heat-adhesive substance, a cloth-like member or a thin plastic sheet-like member may be used. The material of the fabric may be appropriately selected from cotton, polyester, cotton / polyester blend, nylon, rayon, and the like. The shape of the sheet-like member is preferably a tape shape. This is because the supply of the sheet-like member to the clothing manufacturing apparatus, the holding of the sheet-like member, the alignment and the like are facilitated.

The sheet-like member is preferably one in which a thermal adhesive material layer is provided on one or both surfaces of a fabric or a thin plastic sheet by coating or impregnation.
If the heat-adhesive material layers are provided on both surfaces, the bond becomes stronger and wrinkles are less likely to occur, but the bonded part may become too hard and the feeling of wear may worsen.
On the other hand, the configuration in which the heat-adhesive material layer is provided on only one surface is easy to manufacture, the joint portion does not become too hard, and the effect of preventing wrinkles is generally sufficient. This is because it is sufficient to prevent wrinkles of the fabric visible from the outside.

  “Main part” and “folding part” are used to indicate the state of folding the fabric, etc., with the fold of the fabric as the boundary, the small part on the end side is the “folding part”, and the other part is It is called “main part”.

  “First surface” and “second surface” are convenient names for specifying a surface. Although it is generally convenient to implement the first surface side as the front side of the garment, conversely, the first surface side may be implemented as the back side of the garment.

  As a method for sewing fabrics, etc., lock sewing with a sewing machine (lock stitch), chain sewing, chain stitching, etc. may be selected as appropriate, and hand sewing may be used. Etc. are desirable in terms of strength.

  As a heating means for melting the heat-meltable resin and performing thermal bonding, a thermo-compression bonding device such as an iron, a press, a trowel, a roller heat-bonding machine, a high-frequency welding machine, an ultrasonic welding machine, a heat sealer, etc. is appropriately selected. Can be used.

According to the joint portion of the fabric of the present invention according to claim 1, since the first fabric and the second fabric can be sewn first, and then the sheet-like member can be inserted, positioning is easy. It does not take time and costs.
Also, by melting the heat-adhesive substance, the main body portion of the second fabric and the sheet-like member are firmly fixed by the solidified heat-adhesive substance and cannot move relative to each other. Is difficult to occur.
The present invention is suitable for the case where two fabrics are joined by providing a relatively narrow overlapping portion, for example, an armhole stitched portion of a shirt.

  In the joint portion of the fabric of the present invention according to claim 2, the sheet-like member is thermally bonded only to the second surface of the main body portion of the second fabric. Part.

  According to this joint portion of the fabric, for example, when the second fabric is used in a portion appearing outside in the stitched portion such as the front body and the back body in the armhole stitched portion, the second fabric shrinks to the stitched site visually recognized from the outside. It is difficult to cause wrinkles. On the other hand, since the heat-adhesive substance is not used for the first fabric that contacts the wearer's body (for example, the fabric for sleeves), there is no feeling of tingling at the time of wearing, and the wearer is comfortable.

  The apparel of the present invention according to claim 3 is an apparel having the joint portion of the fabric according to claim 1 or 2 in an apparel formed by combining fabrics constituting a plurality of parts by sewing.

According to this garment, the first fabric and the second fabric are stitched first, and then the sheet-like member is inserted. Therefore, the positioning is easy, labor is not required, and the cost is low.
In addition, since the main body portion and the sheet-like member of the second fabric are firmly fixed by the solidified heat-adhesive substance and cannot move relative to each other, it is difficult for the sutured portion to shrink due to the reduction of the sewing thread.

  The clothing of the present invention according to claim 4 is the clothing according to claim 3, wherein the first fabric is a sleeve fabric and the second fabric is a body. Here, the body may be the front body or the back body.

  According to this garment, the second fabric is used in a part (body) that appears to the outside, and it is difficult for wrinkles due to shrinkage to occur in the stitched part that is visible from the outside. On the other hand, since the heat-adhesive substance is not used for the first fabric (sleeve fabric) that comes into contact with the wearer's body, the wearer does not feel awkward at the time of wearing and is comfortable for the wearer.

The method for producing a garment of the present invention according to claim 5 is a method of producing a garment by joining a plurality of fabrics, wherein at least a part of the joint portions includes the first fabric and the second fabric, In the method of manufacturing a garment in which at least one surface is bonded using a sheet-like member that is a heat-bonding surface having a heat-adhesive substance layer, one surface of each of the first fabric and the second fabric is the first surface, The other surface as the second surface,
Superimposing the first fabric and the second fabric so that the first surfaces of each other are in contact with each other and the end of the second fabric is in a position retracted from the end of the first fabric;
Stitching the first fabric and the second fabric a certain distance inside the edge of the second fabric;
Folding back the second fabric from the stitching seam to the end side of the first fabric and making the second surface of the folded portion of the second fabric face the second surface of the unfolded portion; ,
A sheet-like member having at least a first surface as a heat bonding surface is inserted between the folded portion and the unfolded portion of the second fabric with the first surface facing the folded portion side. Process,
Folding the end side portion of the first fabric with the first surface as the inner side, the second surface of the folded portion of the first fabric in contact with the sheet-like member,
Sewing the folded portion of the second fabric, the sheet-like member, the unfolded portion of the first fabric, and the unfolded portion of the first fabric;
And a step of melting the heat-adhesive substance of the sheet-like member by heating.

  Here, any of the step of inserting the sheet-like member and the step of folding the end-side portion of the first fabric may be performed first or simultaneously.

  In the fifth aspect, as in the first to fourth aspects, as the “sheet-like member” which is a binding medium using the heat-adhesive substance, a cloth-like one or a thin plastic sheet-like one may be used. Although it may be used, a material that melts when heated may be used as the sheet-like member. In this case, in the completed clothing, the sheet-like member may melt and soak into the fabric, and the sheet shape does not have to remain.

According to the method of claim 5, since the first fabric and the second fabric are stitched first, and then the sheet-like member is inserted, positioning is easy, labor is not required, and the cost is low. .
In addition, by melting the heat-adhesive substance of the sheet-like member, the second fabric and the sheet-like member are firmly fixed by the solidified heat-adhesive substance and cannot move relative to each other. It is hard for shrinkage to occur.

  In addition to the step of melting the heat-adhesive substance by heating, it is preferable to have a step of fixing by pressing.

According to this method, the crease or the like is fixed by pressurization, and the thickness of the joint portion is reduced. Further, since the first fabric, the second fabric, and the folded second fabric are in close contact with each other, and the sheet-like member is pressed, the molten heat-adhesive substance penetrates well into each fabric. . Thus, a tight bond is obtained.
Here, it is preferable to carry out the “step of fixing the crease by pressurization” simultaneously with the “step of melting the heat-adhesive substance by heating” to make it one step, for the speed and simplification of the work, After the “step of melting the heat-adhesive substance by heating”, the “step of fixing the crease by pressing” may be performed.

  The garment manufactured by the method of the present invention or the bonded portion of the fabric according to the present invention is easy to position and work at the time of bonding, the bonding method is simple, hassle-free, and low cost, The suture site (bonding portion) is strong. In addition, the appearance is good and the texture is excellent. Furthermore, the durability of the stitched area is improved, and wrinkles due to shrinkage are less likely to occur at the stitched area even after repeated washing.

Hereinafter, more specific embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
1 to 11 relate to an embodiment of the present invention.
In this embodiment, the present invention is applied to a shirt. The shirt 70 (FIG. 10) of this embodiment is made by joining parts cut into a predetermined shape such as a front body 71, a back body 72, a sleeve 73, a collar 74, and a yoke 75 by sewing.
And the characteristic structure of this invention is employ | adopted for the joining parts 81 and 82 of the sleeve 73 and the front body 71 or the back body 72. FIG.

  Hereinafter, in order to simplify the description, the characteristic structural portion will be described as joining the first fabric 10 and the second fabric 20. That is, when the present invention is applied to the joint portion between the sleeve 73 and the front body 71 or the back body 72, the sleeve 73 is the first fabric 10, and the front body 71 or the back body 72 is the second fabric 20. It corresponds to. However, the sleeve 73 can be used as the second fabric 20, and the front body 71 or the back body 72 can be used as the first fabric 10.

As the first fabric 10 and the second fabric 20, fabrics manufactured by blending cotton and polyester were used.
As the sheet-like member, a tape member 30 provided with a layer M of a heat-adhesive substance by application or adhesion on one surface (thermal adhesion surface 31) of the fabric 35 was used (FIG. 10). Here, polyester is used as the material of the fabric 35, and a polyethylene-based material is used as the thermal adhesive substance. Of the tape member (sheet-like member) 30, the fabric 35 remains in the joint after heating and plays a role of reinforcing the joint.

The tape member may be provided in the form of dots instead of providing the heat-adhesive substance in a layer form.
The tape member may be a fabric containing a heat-adhesive substance. Examples of means for producing such a tape member include impregnating a fabric with a thermal adhesive substance, or blending or interweaving thermoplastic chemical fibers having a low softening point with cotton, polyester, or the like.

  Hereinafter, the sewing process will be described.

  As shown in FIG. 1, the first fabric 10 and the second fabric 20 are in contact with each other between the first surfaces 11 and 21, and the end 23 of the second fabric is more than the end 13 of the first fabric. Shift and overlap so that it is in the retracted position.

  Next, the first fabric 10 and the second fabric 20 are stitched together by stitches 50 (ground stitching) at a certain distance d inside from the end 23 of the second fabric 20 (FIG. 2). In addition, how to overlap the fabric and the position of the stitch 50 are “the length D from the end 13 of the first fabric 10 to the stitch 50” and “the length d from the end of the second fabric 20 to the stitch 50”. The sum “D + d” is determined to be 1.5 to 2.5 times, more preferably 1.7 to 2.0 times the desired width of the stitched portion.

  Next, the portion of the second fabric 20 that is far from the end 13 with respect to the stitching seam 50 (the wider portion) is moved from the stitching stitch 50 to the first fabric 10 as indicated by the arrow in FIG. Folded to the end 13 side (the end 23 side of the second fabric 20), the second surface 22b of the folded portion 20b of the second fabric 20 and the second surface 22a of the unfolded portion 20a face each other. (FIG. 4).

  Next, an elongated tape member (sheet-like member) 30 having a heat-bonding surface is heated between the folded portion 20b and the unfolded portion 20a of the second fabric 20 toward the folded portion 20b. The first surface 31 that is an adhesive surface is inserted with the first surface 31 facing it.

  A portion of the first fabric 10 that is closer to the end 13 than the seam 50 is folded with the first surface 11 as an inner side to form a fold 14, and a folded portion 10a and a main body 10b are formed. By this folding, the second surface 12a of the folded portion 10a of the first fabric 10 is brought into contact with the second surface 32 of the sheet-like member 30, and the end 13 of the folded portion 10a of the first fabric 10 is It abuts with the end 23 of the second fabric 20 (FIG. 5). The distance a between the crease and the stitch 50 at this time is substantially the width of the stitched portion. This step is performed in parallel with the insertion of the sheet-like member 30 using predetermined equipment.

In addition, as described above, in this specification, in order to represent the shape of the folded fabric or the like, the small portion on the terminal side is referred to as the “folded portion” and the other portion is referred to as the “main body portion” with the fold as a boundary. The reference sign for the folded part is a, and the reference sign for the body part is b.
Since this notation is based only on the shape and not on the actual manufacturing method, the “folded portion 20b” is the “main body portion” and the “unfolded portion 20a” is the second fabric 20. Corresponds to the “folded part”.

  Next, the folded portion (main body portion) 20b of the second fabric 20, the tape member 30, the folded portion (folded portion) 20a of the first fabric 10, and the first fabric 10 are not folded. A seam 60 (sewn sleeve stitch) for sewing the portion (main body portion) is inserted (FIG. 6).

  Further, the heat adhesive material of the tape member 30 is melted by applying pressure while heating, and the first surface 31 of the tape member 30 and the second fabric 20 are thermally bonded to complete the bonding (FIG. 7).

  An overlapping method of the first fabric 10, the second fabric 20, and the tape member 30 thus combined will be described (FIG. 8).

  In FIG. 8, the fabric and the like are, from the lower side in the figure, the main body portion 10 b of the first fabric 10, the folded portion 20 a of the second fabric 20, the folded portion 10 a of the first fabric 10, and the tape member 30. The main body portion 20b of the second fabric 20 overlaps in this order. (Note that the folded portion 20a of the second fabric 20 and the folded portion 10a of the first fabric 10 may overlap as shown in Fig. 7. In this case, the folded portion 10a of the first fabric 10 is the first folded portion 10a. (It enters between the folded portion 20a of the second fabric 20 and the tape member 30.)

  The main body portion second surface 22 b of the second fabric 20 is in contact with the first surface (thermal bonding surface) 31 of the tape member 30, and the second surface 32 of the tape member 30 is the folded portion second surface of the first fabric 10. 12a and the folded portion second surface 22a of the second fabric 20, and the folded portion first surface 11a of the first fabric 10 and the folded portion first surface 21a of the second fabric 20 are the first fabric. 10 main body part first surface 11b is contacted.

  The main body portion second surface 22b of the second fabric 20 and the first surface 31 of the tape member 30 are thermally bonded and integrated. The fabric 35 of the tape member 30 remains unmelted. The second surface 32 of the tape member 30 is not thermally bonded to the surface 12a of the first fabric 10. Bonding by thermal bonding does not occur between other fabrics.

  When the first fabric 10 and the second fabric 20 thus joined are viewed from the front side (first surface side), only the fold line 24 and the seam 60 are visible as shown in FIG. 8, and a simple appearance is obtained. Excellent texture.

  When such a fabric bond was used for the armhole stitched portions 81 and 82 of the shirt 70 shown in FIG. 10, the appearance, comfort and durability were good.

It is a perspective view showing typically how to pile up the 1st cloth and the 2nd cloth in the manufacturing method of the clothing of the embodiment of the present invention. It is sectional drawing which entered the position of the seam in AA arrow sectional drawing of FIG. In the garment manufacturing method of the embodiment of the present invention, the first fabric and the second fabric are stitched together to create a first combined body. It is a perspective view which shows the place which turned up the 2nd fabric in the manufacturing method of the clothing of embodiment of this invention. It is a perspective view which shows the place which inserted the sheet-like member (tape member) and folded the 1st fabric. It is a perspective view which shows the place which further sewn the 2nd cloth, the sheet-like member, and the 1st cloth. It is a perspective view which shows another embodiment of this invention. It is sectional drawing which shows typically the BB arrow cross section of FIG. It is. It is a front view which shows the place which looked at FIG. 7 from the front side (1st surface side). It is a perspective view of the clothing manufactured by the manufacturing method of the clothing of the present invention. It is a perspective view which shows typically the sheet-like member (tape member) used in the manufacturing method of the clothing of this invention.

Explanation of symbols

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 10 1st fabric 11 1st surface of 1st fabric 12 2nd surface of 1st fabric 20 2nd fabric 21 1st surface of 2nd fabric 22 2nd surface of 2nd fabric 30 Tape member ( Sheet-like member)
31 First surface of tape member (sheet-like member) 32 Second surface of tape member (sheet-like member) 50, 60 Seam

Claims (5)

A bonded portion of a fabric comprising at least a first fabric, a second fabric, and a sheet-like member having at least one surface of which is a thermal adhesive surface having a thermal adhesive substance layer,
The first fabric and the second fabric are folded to form a main body portion and a folded portion,
One surface of each of the first fabric and the second fabric is a first surface, and the other surface is a second surface.
The first fabric is folded with the first surface inside,
The first surface of the body portion of the first fabric is in contact with the first surface of the folded portion of the second fabric,
A sheet-like member is sandwiched between the main body portion and the folded portion of the second fabric,
The body portion of the first fabric and the folded portion of the second fabric are stitched, and this stitching does not reach the sheet-like member,
The body part of the second fabric, the sheet-like member, the folded part of the first fabric, and the body part of the first fabric are stitched,
A joint portion of a fabric, wherein the second surface of the main body portion of the second fabric is thermally bonded to the thermal bonding surface of the sheet-like member.   The joint portion of the fabric according to claim 1, wherein the sheet-like member is thermally bonded only to the second surface of the main body portion of the second fabric.   A garment having a fabric joining portion according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fabric constituting a plurality of parts is joined by sewing.   The clothing according to claim 3, wherein the first fabric is a sleeve fabric and the second fabric is a body. A method of manufacturing a garment by joining a plurality of fabrics, wherein at least some of the joints are bonded to the first fabric and the second fabric at least one surface of which has a heat-adhesive substance layer. In the manufacturing method of the clothing combined using the sheet-like member that is a surface, one surface of each of the first fabric and the second fabric is a first surface, and the other surface is a second surface,
Superimposing the first fabric and the second fabric so that the first surfaces of each other are in contact with each other and the end of the second fabric is in a position retracted from the end of the first fabric;
Stitching the first fabric and the second fabric a certain distance inside the edge of the second fabric;
Folding back the second fabric from the stitching seam to the end side of the first fabric and making the second surface of the folded portion of the second fabric face the second surface of the unfolded portion; ,
A sheet-like member having at least a first surface as a heat bonding surface is inserted between the folded portion and the unfolded portion of the second fabric with the first surface facing the folded portion side. Process,
Folding the end side portion of the first fabric with the first surface as the inner side, the second surface of the folded portion of the first fabric in contact with the sheet-like member,
Sewing the folded portion of the second fabric, the sheet-like member, the unfolded portion of the first fabric, and the unfolded portion of the first fabric;
And a step of melting the heat-adhesive substance of the sheet-like member by heating.

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