FR3145483A1 - Composition comprising at least one amino acid, at least one associative polyurethane, at least one particular polysaccharide and at least one amino silicone. - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least one amino acid, one of its salts, and/or their mixtures; b) at least one associative polyurethane; c) optionally at least one cationic polymer; d) at least one polysaccharide different from the cationic polymers; and e) at least one amino silicone.

Description

Composition comprising at least one amino acid, at least one associative polyurethane, at least one particular polysaccharide and at least one amino silicone.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an amino acid, an associative polyurethane, a particular polysaccharide and an amino silicone.

The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, comprising at least one step of applying such a composition to said keratin materials, and the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres.

External atmospheric agents such as pollution and bad weather, as well as mechanical or chemical treatments, or certain routines, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming, straightening and/or repeated washing, can damage and weaken hair. Furthermore, it is known that metal particles, such as copper, are generally present in water. Thus, upon contact with water, for example following swimming, washing and/or rinsing with water, said metal particles, such as copper, can accumulate on the surface of the keratin material, in particular the keratin fiber such as hair, or even penetrate the cuticles. The accumulation of these metal particles inside the hair affects its resistance. Because of all these external aggressions, the hair can then become damaged and in the long term become dry, rough, brittle and dull.

Thus, to overcome these drawbacks, it is customary to use hair care compositions intended to condition the hair by providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular smoothing, shine, softness to the touch, suppleness and lightness, as well as good detangling properties inducing ease of combing and good discipline of the hair which is thus easier to style.

Furthermore, hair care compositions are increasingly used to combat the accumulation of metals in the hair fiber or to neutralize metal ions.

However, these compositions do not improve the quality of the fiber sufficiently to allow it to be repaired or to reduce breakage, for example during combing or detangling. In addition, the conditioning effect obtained by these hair care compositions fades quickly over time.

There is therefore still a real need to find a way to treat keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, preferably damaged and/or sensitised, which is capable of conditioning said materials satisfactorily, of neutralising metal ions and/or metals, in particular iron, copper and/or calcium, and of preserving or even improving the quality of said materials, thus making it possible to repair them and/or reduce their breakage, for example during combing or detangling.

It has now been discovered that the application to keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, of a composition comprising an amino acid and/or one of its salts in combination with an associative polyurethane, a polysaccharide other than cationic polymers and an amino silicone makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above, and in particular to neutralise the metal ions and/or metals in the hair and thus to repair and/or prevent breakage of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, by providing in particular excellent cosmetic properties, in particular lightness, softness, a smooth feel and shine, to keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres such as hair, as well as improved detangling and combing.

In addition, the texture of the composition thus prepared is particularly pleasant, light and close to that of a cream; it is slippery and easy to apply and distribute on the hair; it is also melting and disappears quickly into the hair after application.

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) at least one amino acid, one of its salts, and/or mixtures thereof;

(b) at least one associative polyurethane;

(c) optionally at least one cationic polymer;

(d) at least one polysaccharide different from the cationic polymers; and

(e) at least one amino silicone.

It was found that hair treated with the composition according to the invention had good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of lightness, softness, smooth feel, shine, ease of detangling and combing. In addition, it was observed that the metal ions and/or metals accumulated in the hair thus treated were neutralized, which helps to reduce their breakage.

In addition, the composition according to the invention has good qualities of use. It is easy to apply and to distribute on keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers. It has a pleasant texture.

The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying the composition according to the invention to said keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers.

The invention also relates to the use of the above composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follows.

In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:

- the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be substituted for it;

- the expression “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included;

- “keratin materials” means keratin fibres, and in particular hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, skin, nails, mucous membranes or scalp;

- by “keratin fibers” according to the present application, we mean human keratin fibers and more particularly hair;

- by "silicone" is meant all organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or by polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), hydrocarbon radicals, optionally substituted, being directly linked via a carbon atom on said silicon atoms; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones, dimethiconols.

Amino acid

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino acid, one of its salts, and/or their mixtures.

Preferably, the amino acid is chosen from natural amino acids, synthetic amino acids, in their L, D or racemic form, and their mixtures, and comprise at least one acid function chosen from carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. Said amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.

The amino acid(s) are preferably chosen from neutral amino acids, acidic amino acids and mixtures thereof.

By "neutral amino acids" we mean amino acids which have a pH, at room temperature (25°C), in water of between 5 and 7 inclusive.

By "acidic amino acids" we mean amino acids that have a pH, at room temperature, in water of less than 5.

The amino acid(s) may be α-amino acids, natural or synthetic, comprising a carbon atom C carrying an amino group, a carboxyl group, a hydrogen atom and a side group which may be a hydrogen atom (case of glycine), any other monovalent organic group or a cycle comprising said carbon atom C, the nitrogen atom of said amino group and several additional carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 4 additional carbon atoms.

The side groups may be, in particular, alkyl groups (case of alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine), substituted alkyl groups (case of threonine, serine, methionine, cysteine, asparagine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glutamine, arginine and lysine), arylalkyl groups (case of phenylalanine and tryptophan), substituted arylalkyl groups (case of tyrosine), heteroalkyl groups (case of histidine).

The side group may in particular be a 5-membered ring comprising said carbon atom C, the nitrogen atom of said amino group and 3 additional carbon atoms, such as for proline.

These α-amino acids are notably listed in Harper et al (1977) Review of Physiological Chemistry, 16th edition, Lange Medical Publications, pages 21-24.

By synthetic α-amino acid is meant an α-amino acid that is not incorporated into a protein under the control of mRNA such as for example a fluorinated α-amino acid such as fluoroalanine, trimethylsilylalanine or an α-amino acid such as:
Or
,

where n ₁ is an integer from 1 to 6 and n ₂ is an integer from 1 to 12.

Synthetic amino acids are also described in Williams (ed), Synthesis of Optically Active α-Amino Acids, Pergamon Press (1989); Evans et al , J. Amer. Chem. Soc. 112,4011-4030 (1990); Pu et al, J. Amer. Chem. Soc. 56, 1280-1283 (1991); on Williams et al , J. Amer. Chem. Soc., 113,9276-9286 (1991).

Advantageously, the amino acid is chosen from glycine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, lysine, polylysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, their salts, and their mixtures.

According to the invention, the term “amino acid salts” means salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium and potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium and calcium salts and zinc salts.

Preferably, the amino acid(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, glutamic acid, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, their salts and their mixtures, more preferably from glycine, sodium glutamate, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, their salts and their mixtures, even more preferably from glycine, arginine, their salts and their mixtures.

Advantageously, the total content of the amino acid(s), one of their salts and/or their mixtures ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the content total of the amino acid(s), one of their salts and/or their mixtures is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of glycine and/or arginine and/or their salts ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the content total glycine and/or arginine and/or their salts is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of glycine and/or its salts ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of glycine and/or its salts is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Associative polyurethane

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one associative polyurethane.

It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

The associative polyurethanes according to the invention preferably comprise at least one fatty chain of at least 8 carbon atoms. They are not silicone-based.

This type of polymer is likely to interact with itself or with particular compounds such as surfactants to lead to a thickening of the medium.

The associative polyurethane may be chosen from non-ionic associative polyurethanes, anionic associative polyurethanes, cationic associative polyurethanes, amphoteric or zwitterionic associative polyurethanes and their mixtures, more preferably from non-ionic associative polyurethanes, anionic associative polyurethanes, cationic associative polyurethanes and their mixtures.

Anionic

As anionic associative polyurethanes according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of an acrylic terpolymer which is soluble or swellable in alkalis.

It is characterized by the fact that it includes:

a) about 20 to 70% by weight, preferably 25 to 55% by weight, of a monoethylenically α,β-unsaturated carboxylic acid;

b) about 20 to 80% by weight, preferably 30 to 65% by weight, of a non-surfactant monoethylenically unsaturated monomer different from a) and

(c) about 0.5 to 60% by weight, preferably 10 to 50% by weight, of a nonionic urethane monomer which is the reaction product of a monohydric nonionic surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate.

The acrylic terpolymer defined above is obtained by copolymerization in aqueous emulsion of components a), b) and c) which is entirely usual and described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109.

Examples of anionic associative polyurethane that can be used according to the present invention include, in particular, methacrylic or acrylic acid copolymers comprising at least one C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl (meth)acrylate unit and a urethane unit substituted by a fatty chain. In particular, mention may be made of the methacrylic acid/methyl methacrylate/methylstyrene-isopropylisocyanate/polyethoxylated behenyl alcohol copolymer (comprising 40 ethoxy units) sold under the brand name Viscophobe® DB 1000 sold by the company Union Carbide.

Non-ionic s

The non-ionic associative polyurethanes used in the present invention may be polyether-polyurethanes comprising in their chain, both hydrophilic sequences of most often polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic chains alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic chains.

Preferably, the polyether polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendant chains to be provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

Polyether polyurethanes can be multi-block, particularly in the form of triblocks. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (multi-block copolymer for example). These same polymers can also be in grafts or in a star shape.

Nonionic fatty chain polyether polyurethanes can be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain containing 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyether polyurethanes contain a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

By extension, non-ionic polyether-polyurethanes with fatty chains also include those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.

As examples of nonionic fatty chain polyether polyurethanes, it is also possible to use Rheolate 205 with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or Rheolates 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184, Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46 from the company ROHM & HAAS (ACULYN 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); decyl and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%).

Other examples include the ELFACOS T210 product with a _C12 - _C14 alkyl chain and the ELFACOS T212 product with a _C18 alkyl chain from AKZO.

ROHM & HAAS product DW 1206B with a _C20 alkyl chain and urethane bond, offered at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

Solutions or dispersions of these polymers can also be used, particularly in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers include Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by RHEOX. The product DW 1206F and DW 1206J offered by ROHM & HAAS can also be used.

The polyether-polyurethanes which can be used according to the invention may in particular be those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380.389 (1993).

As preferred examples of non-ionic associative polyurethane, mention may be made of polyether-polyurethanes capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names Aculyn® 46 and Aculyn® 44. ACULYN® 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene-bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN® 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene-bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%).

Mention may also be made of the polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 240 moles of ethylene oxide, of polyoxyethylenated decyltetradecyl alcohol having 20 ethylene oxide units and of hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) such as that sold under the name Adekanol GT-730 by the company Adeka USA Corporation (INCI name: PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether).

Cationic

The cationic associative polyurethanes are preferably chosen from the cationic associative polyurethanes whose family was described by the applicant in French patent application No. 0009609; it can be represented by the following general formula (Ia):

RX-(P) _n -[L-(Y) _m ] _r -L'-(P') _p -X'-R' (Ia)

in which:

- R and R’, identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;

- X and X', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group, or the group L";

- L, L’ and L", identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate;

- P and P’, identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group;

- Y represents a hydrophilic group;

- r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusive,

- n, m, and p are each independently of the others between inclusively 0 and 1000;

the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

Preferably, the cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) comprise as only hydrophobic groups the groups R and R' at the chain ends.

A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) described above and in which:

- R and R’ both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

- X, X’ each represent a group L’’,

- n and p are integers that range from 1 to 1000 inclusive and

- L, L’, L’’, P, P’, Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:

- the fact that n and p are 0 means that these polymers do not contain units derived from an amine-functional monomer, incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation.

- the protonated amine functions of these polyurethanes result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions at the end of the chain, followed by the alkylation of the primary amine functions formed by alkylating agents with a hydrophobic group, i.e. compounds of type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:

R and R’ both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

X and X’ both independently represent a group comprising a quaternary amine,

n and p are zero, and

L, L’, Y and m have the meanings indicated above.

The number average molecular weight of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between inclusive 400 and 500,000, in particular between inclusive 1000 and 400,000 and ideally between inclusive 1000 and 300,000.

By hydrophobic group is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N, S, or a radical with a perfluorinated or silicone chain. When it designates a hydrocarbon radical, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound.

For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It may also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

When X and/or X' denote a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and/or X' may represent one of the following formulae:

in which:

R ₂ represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, comprising or not a saturated or unsaturated cycle, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P;

R ₁ and R ₃ , identical or different, denote a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical, an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P;

A ^- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as halide like chloride or bromide or mesylate.

The groups L, L' and L" represent a group of formula:

in which:

Z represents –O-, -S- or –NH-; and

R ₄ represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, comprising or not a saturated or unsaturated cycle, an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P.

The groups P and P', comprising an amine function, can represent at least one of the following formulas:

in which:

R ₅ and R ₇ have the same meanings as R ₂ defined previously;

R ₆ , R ₈ and R ₉ have the same meanings as R ₁ and R ₃ defined previously;

R ₁₀ represents an alkylene group, linear or branched, optionally unsaturated and which may contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P,

and A ^- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as halide like chloride or bromide or mesylate.

As for the meaning of Y, a hydrophilic group is understood to mean a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.

Examples of non-polymers include ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

When it is a hydrophilic polymer, examples that may be mentioned are polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and various compounds having labile hydrogen functions. The labile hydrogen functions may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, respectively polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas. The term "polyurethanes" of the present invention encompasses these three types of polymers, namely polyurethanes themselves, polyureas and polythioureas as well as copolymers thereof.

A first type of compounds used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound comprising at least one amine-functional unit. This compound may be multifunctional, but preferably the compound is difunctional, that is to say that this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms carried for example by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function. It is also possible to use a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low.

As previously stated, this compound may contain more than one amine-functional unit. It is then a polymer bearing a repetition of the amine-functional unit.

This type of compounds can be represented by one of the following formulas:

HZ-(P)n-ZH,

Or

HZ-(P')p-ZH

in which Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

Examples of compounds with an amine function include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine, N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

The second compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula:

O=C=NR ₄ -N=C=O

in which R ₄ is defined above.

Examples include methylenediphenyl diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexanediisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, toluenediisocyanate, naphthalenediisocyanate, butanediisocyanate, hexanediisocyanate.

A third compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (Ia).

This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a labile hydrogen function, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.

For example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol, such as in particular stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. When this compound comprises a polymer chain, it may be for example α-hydroxy hydrogenated polybutadiene.

The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) may also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound comprising at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced by the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

The cationic associative polyurethane may further comprise a hydrophilic sequence. This sequence is provided by a fourth type of compound used in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture where the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.

The labile hydrogen functions are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions. This compound can be a polymer terminated at the ends of the chains by one of these labile hydrogen functions.

Examples of non-polymers include ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

When it is a hydrophilic polymer, examples that may be mentioned are polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

The hydrophilic group denoted Y in formula (Ia) is optional. Indeed, the quaternary or protonated amine functional units may be sufficient to provide the solubility or hydrodispersibility necessary for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.

Although the presence of a hydrophilic Y group is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes having such a group are preferred.

Advantageously, the associative polyurethanes are chosen from polyurethanes comprising at least one terminal or pendant fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the associative polyurethane(s) are chosen from nonionic associative polyurethanes, preferably from those comprising at least one terminal or pendant fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, more preferably from polyether-polyurethanes, even more preferably from the PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether copolymer, the HDI/HMDI/SMDI/IPDI/polyurethane copolymer, the PPG-51/SMDI copolymer, the PPG-12/SMD copolymer, the HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosslinked copolymer, the PEG-8/SMDI copolymer and their mixtures, better still from the PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether copolymer.

Advantageously, the total content of the associative polyurethane(s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of the non-ionic associative polyurethane(s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of the non-ionic associative polyurethane(s) comprising at least one terminal or pendant fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic polymer

The composition according to the invention optionally comprises at least one cationic polymer, different from the associative polyurethanes previously described.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer, different from the associative polyurethanes previously described.

The cationic polymer is non-silicone, that is, it does not contain silicon atoms.

The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups ionizable into cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the polymer main chain or be carried by a side substituent directly linked to it.

The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5.10 ⁶ approximately, preferably of between 10 ³ and 3.10 ⁶ approximately.

Among the cationic polymers, we can cite more particularly:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formula:

in which:

- R ₃ , identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

- A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- R ₄ , R ₅ , R ₆ , identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

Among these copolymers of family (1), we can cite:

- copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,

- copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,

- the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,

- vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name “GAFQUAT” by the company ISP such as for example “GAFQUAT 734” or “GAFQUAT 755” or the products called “COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937”. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573;

- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;

- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name “GAFQUAT HS 100” by the company ISP,

- polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(C1-C4)trialkyl(C1-C4)ammonium salts such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking by an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name “SALCARE® SC 92” by the company CIBA. A crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester may also be used. These dispersions are marketed under the names “SALCARE® SC 95” and “SALCARE® SC 96” by the company CIBA.

(2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597, and mention may be made of the polymers marketed under the name “UCARE POLYMER JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US4131576, and hydroxyalkylcelluloses may be mentioned, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium salt, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium salt, or dimethyl-diallylammonium salt. The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name “Celquat L 200” and “Celquat H 100” by the National Starch Company.

Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US3589578 and US4031307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed in particular under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company RHODIA.

(3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers.

(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.

(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents. Examples that may be mentioned include adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name “Cartaretine F, F4 or F8” by the company Sandoz.

(6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are marketed in particular under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. Or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette"01" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylene-triamine copolymer.

(7) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising as the main constituent of the chain units corresponding to formulae (I) or (II):

in which

- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

- R ₁₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

- R₁₀and R₁₁, independently of one another, denote a C alkyl group₁-C₆, a C hydroxyalkyl group₁-C₅, a C amidoalkyl group₁-C₄ ; or R₁₀and R₁₁may designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R₁₀and R₁₁, independently of one another, preferably denote a C alkyl group₁-C₄ ;

- Y ^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium, for example sold under the name “MERQUAT 100” by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide, for example Polyquaternium-7. These copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts and acrylamide may be marketed in particular under the name “MERQUAT 550”, “MERQUAT 7SPR”, “MERQUAT 550PR” or “FLOCARE C107”.

(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula:

in which:

- R13, R14, R15 and R16, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals,

or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen

or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide group or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D where R17 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;

- A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

- X ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

it being understood that A1, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;

furthermore, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-, with n and p, identical or different, being integers varying from 2 to 20, and D denoting:

(a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and –[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

(b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

(c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;

d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X ^- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.

We can cite more particularly polymers which are made up of recurring units corresponding to the formula:

in which R1, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers varying from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

(9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):

in which:

- R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

- r and s, identical or different, are whole numbers between 1 and 6,

- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

- X- denotes an anion such as a halide,

- A denotes a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

Examples include the products “Mirapol® A 15”, “Mirapol® AD1”, “Mirapol® AZ1” and “Mirapol® 175” sold by the company Miranol.

(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F.

(11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name “POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE” in the CTFA dictionary.

(12) polymers comprising in their structure:

(a) one or more patterns corresponding to the following formula (A):

(b) optionally one or more patterns corresponding to the following formula (B):

In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

These polymers can be obtained for example by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in an acidic or basic medium.

The weight average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g/mole, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g/mole.

Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by the company BASF, such as, for example, and in a non-limiting manner, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.

Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or hydrolysates of cationic proteins, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from those of families (1), (2), (7) and (10) cited above.

Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, it is preferable to use cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name “JR 400” by the company AMERCHOL, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium, sold under the names MERQUAT 100, MERQUAT 550 and MERQUAT S by the company NALCO, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, homopolymers or copolymers, optionally crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(C1-C4)trialkyl(C1-C4)ammonium salts; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the cationic polymer(s), when present in the composition, are chosen from cationic polysaccharides, cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium and mixtures thereof, preferentially from cationic galactomannan gums, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from cationic guar gums, copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide and mixtures thereof, better still from copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the total content of the cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.00001 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005 to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of the cationic polymer(s) chosen from cationic polysaccharides, alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers and their mixtures ranges from 0.00001 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005 to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of the cationic polymer(s) chosen from cationic guar gums, copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide and their mixtures ranges from 0.00001 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005 to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polysaccharide different from polymers cationic s

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide other than cationic polymers, preferably chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides.

Polysaccharides other than cationic polymers are non-silicone.

The non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture, celluloses, starches, galactomannans, scleroglucan, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers or esters.

These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, we can cite temperature; and as a chemical treatment, we can cite esterification, etherification, amidation, oxidation reactions, to the extent that these treatments make it possible to produce polymers that are non-ionic.

As galactomannans which may be used, mention may be made of non-ionic guar gums which may be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can for example be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as for example propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

The hydroxyalkylation rate preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

Such non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60, JAGUAR HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

The starch molecules that can be used in the present invention may have cereals or tubers as their botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and pea starches. The starches may be modified chemically or physically: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation and heat treatments.

Starch molecules can be derived from any plant source of starch, such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

Nonionic polysaccharides can also be cellulosic polymers that do not have a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.

According to the invention, the term “cellulosic” polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues united by β-1,4 bonds; the cellulosic polymers may be unsubstituted celluloses, and/or non-ionic cellulose derivatives.

Thus, the cellulose polymers that can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in a microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulose polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester-ethers.

Nonionic cellulose ethers include (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g. Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g. Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g. Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl-(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (e.g. Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (e.g. Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

Scleroglucan is a non-ionic branched homopolysaccharide, consisting of β-D glucan units. The molecules consist of a linear main chain formed of D-glucose units linked by β(1,3) bonds and one out of three of which is linked to a lateral D-glucose unit by a β(1,6) bond.

These polysaccharides are obtained by fermentation of a medium based on sugar and mineral salts, under the action of a microorganism of the Sclerotium type, such as Sclerotium glucanium and Sclerotium rolfsii. A more complete description of scleroglucans and their preparation can be found in document US 3,301,848.

Scleroglucan is for example sold under the name AMIGEL by the company ALBAN MULLER, or under the name ACTIGUM™ CS by the company Cargill.

Other polysaccharides according to the invention include xanthan, gum arabic and modified starch (hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate).

Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) other than the cationic polymers are chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides, preferentially from scleroglucan, hydroxyethylcellulose, and their mixtures, more preferentially from scleroglucan, in particular sclerotium rolfissii gum, a gum of microbiological origin, produced by the bacterium Sclerotium rolfissii.

Advantageously, the total content of the polysaccharide(s) other than the cationic polymers ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of the nonionic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total scleroglucan content ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Amino silicone

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone.

An amino silicone is any silicone containing at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The amino silicones which can be used according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*10 ^-6 to 2.5 m ² /s at 25°C, for example from 1*10 ^-5 to 1 m ² /s.

Preferably, the amino silicones according to the invention are not oxyalkylenated.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:

(a) polysiloxanes corresponding to the formula (A):

in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between about 5,000 and 500,000;

(b) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (B):

R' _a G _3-a -Si(OSiG ₂ ) _n -(OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _{3-a '} -R' _{a '} (B)

in which:

- G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, _C1 - _C8 alkyl, for example methyl, or _C1 - _C8 alkoxy, for example methoxy,
- a, a', identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,

- b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
- R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups: -N(R")2 ; -N+(R")3 A- ; -NR"-QN(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A-, in which R", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula C _r H _2r , linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B). Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to the following formulas (C), (D), (E), (F), (G), alone or as a mixture:

1/ silicones called “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” corresponding to the formula (C):

in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

2/ silicones of the following formula (D):

in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n being able to designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5;
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , identical or different, represent a C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxy or alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R ₁ to R ₃ denoting an alkoxy radical.

Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3500 to 200,000.

3/ the following silicones of formula (E):

in which:

- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p being able to designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q being able to designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;
- R ₁ , R ₂ , different, represent a C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxy or alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R ₁ or R ₂ denoting an alkoxy radical.

Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 and even more particularly from 5000 to 100000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.

Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (D) or (E).

A product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652.

A product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300® or under the name Belsil ADM Log 1.

When these amino silicones are used, their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion is particularly advantageous. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but preferably cationic and/or nonionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (E), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nanometers (inclusive). Thus, the microemulsions of amino silicone of formula (E) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER may be used according to the invention.

4/ silicones of the following formula (F):

in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical, preferably linear, having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms.

The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.

Another silicone with formula (B) is, for example, XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING (INCI name amodimethicone and trideceth-6 and cetrimonium chloride).

5/ silicones of the following formula (G):

in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.

A silicone that meets this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.

(c) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (H):

in which:

- R ₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by a SiC bond;

- Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;

- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;
- s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

Such amino silicones are notably described in US patent 4,185,087.

(d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I):

in which:

- R ₇ , identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical or a cycle comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by a SiC bond;

- R ₈ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical, a -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ radical;

- X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;

- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.

These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974.

e) amino silicones of formula (J):

in which:

- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , identical or different, denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

- R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

- x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq/g.

f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB) _n , A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.

Said silicones are preferably composed of repeating units of the following general formulas:

[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ - R -N(R")- R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -R'-N(H)-R- ]

or else

[-(SiMe ₂ O)xSiMe ₂ - R -N(R")- R' - O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -]

in which:

- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;

- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;

- R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

- R, identical or different, represent a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferentially R denotes a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical;
- R', identical or different, represent a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferentially R' denotes -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85 mol%.

The amine level is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000, more particularly between 10000 and 200000.

Examples include silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

(g) amino silicones of formulae (L) and (M):
(L)
in which:

- R, R' and R''', identical or different, denote a _C1 - _C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

- A denotes a _C3 alkylene radical; and

- m and n are numbers such that the weight average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000;
(M)
in which:

- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably y ranges from 1 to 100;
- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, preferably identical, denote an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched.
In particular, the following divalent groups can be mentioned:
-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -.

Preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R1 and R2, identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

The amino silicone(s) are preferably of formula (M) with:
- x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;
- ranging from 1 to 100;
- A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -; and
- R ₁ and R ₂ being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

A preferred silicone of formula (M) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. Particular mention may be made of the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

(h) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes containing primary amine groups on only one chain end or on the side chains, such as those of formula (N), (O) or (P):
(N)
Or
(O)

Or
(P)

In formula (N), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight of the amino silicone is between 1,000 and 55,000.
Examples of amino silicones of formula (N) include products sold under the names AMS-132), AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin Etsu. Compounds of formula (N) have the INCI name aminopropyl dimethicone.

In formula (O), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular weight of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3,000.
Examples of amino silicones of formula (O) include the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest, such as mono-aminopropyl terminated dimethicone (INCI name).

In formula (P), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000.
As an example of amino silicones of formula (P), we can cite aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.

(i) and their mixtures.

Advantageously, the amino silicone is preferably chosen from amino silicones of formula (B), amino silicones of formula (N), amino silicones of formula (O), and mixtures thereof, more preferably from amino silicones of formula (N), amino silicones of formula (O) and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone chosen from amino silicones of formula (N), amino silicones of formula (O) and their mixtures, preferably from amino silicones of formula (N), more preferentially from aminopropyl dimethicones.

Advantageously, the total content of the amino silicone(s) ranges from 0.01 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2 to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of the amino silicone(s) (B), and advantageously (N) and/or (O), ranges from 0.01 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2 to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of aminopropyl dimethicone ranges from 0.01 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2 to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-silicone fat

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one non-silicone fatty substance, i.e. not comprising a silicon atom.

By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Fatty substances have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), vaseline oil.

The non-silicone fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substance(s) according to the invention are different from fatty acids.

The non-silicone fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and/or solid fatty substances. Liquid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa) and solid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa).

For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa).

More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from _C6 to _C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of plant or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

As regards the liquid _C6 to _C16 hydrocarbons, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. For example, the following may be mentioned:

- branched _C8 - _C16 alkanes such as _C8 - _C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls,

- linear C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, n-undecane, tridecane , as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008/155059 from Cognis and their mixtures.

Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and their mixtures.

As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, we can cite perhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

With regard to fluorinated oils, these may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PC1” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the Company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the Company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the Company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by the Company 3M.

The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.

As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monohydric alcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid is branched.

Monoesters include dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Also useful are esters of C4 to C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described above.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.

More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

An example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol.

Solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 .

The solid fatty substance(s) capable of being used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and their mixtures.

By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen from, alone or in a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and their mixtures, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, their mixtures, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

The solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and/or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

Also useful are esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point greater than approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or diffuse light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, especially of organic origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

In addition, microcrystalline waxes in C20 to C60, such as Microwax HW, can be mentioned.

We can also mention the PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32, may also be mentioned. Among these, mention may be made in particular of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated copra oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) may also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; we can cite in particular carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, vaseline wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.

The ceramides or their analogues which may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R ³ CH(OH)CH(CH ₂ OR ² )(NHCOR ¹ ), in which:

R ¹ denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C ₁₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, this group possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acid;

R ² denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl) _n group, a (galactosyl) m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

R ³ denotes a C ₁₅ -C ₂₆ hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₁₄ alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R ³ may also denote a C ₁₅ -C ₂₆ alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ alpha-hydroxy acid.

More particularly preferred ceramides are compounds for which R ¹ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids; R ² denotes a hydrogen atom and R ³ denotes a linear saturated C ₁₅ group.

Preferably, ceramides are used for which R ¹ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C ₁₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acids; R ² denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R ³ denotes a -CH=CH-(CH ₂ ) ₁₂ -CH ₃ group.

It is also possible to use compounds for which R ¹ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids; R ² denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R ³ denotes a saturated or unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH ₂ ) ₁₂ -CH ₃ group.

Particularly preferred compounds include 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, and their mixtures, preferentially from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

Butters can also be used.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter” (also called “pasty fat”) means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting start temperature greater than 25°C and an end melting temperature less than 60°C.

Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

We can particularly mention shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), Apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), Grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), Avocado butter (Persea gratissima), Olive butter (Olea europaea), Sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and Cocoa butter Sunflower butter.

Shea butter is an example of a favorite butter.

Shea butter is commonly known as the nut of the Butyrospemium Parkii tree. Each nut contains between 45 and 55% fat, which is then extracted and refined.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances, more preferably chosen from liquid _C6 to _C16 hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides and their mixtures; more preferably still among the branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes, the linear C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes, the monoesters of monoalcohols and their mixtures, better still among the branched C ₁₁ -C ₁₅ alkanes, the linear C ₁₁ -C ₁₅ alkanes, the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols and their mixtures, better still among isododecane, n-undecane, tridecane, isononyl isononanoate and their mixtures.

Advantageously, the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1 to 25% by weight, better still from 3 to 20% by weight, better still from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of the liquid non-silicone fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1 to 25% by weight, better still from 3 to 20% by weight, better still from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polyols

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyol, different from the fatty alcohols described above.

Preferably, the polyol(s) are C3-C8 polyols or C3-C8 polyol ethers. They preferably comprise 2 to 4, more preferably 2 to 3 OH groups.

Examples include: glycerol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol, preferably chosen from butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and their mixtures.

Advantageously, the total content of the polyol(s) ranges from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 2 to 10% by weight, better still from 4 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and their salts

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one compound chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), their salts, and/or their mixtures.

The alpha-hydroxy acid(s) are preferably chosen from acids comprising from 2 to 7 carbon atoms, better still from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid(s) are chosen from those comprising at least 2 COOH functions.

The alpha-hydroxy acid(s) are preferably chosen from glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, their salts and their mixtures; more preferably from citric acid, its salts, such as sodium citrate, and their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alpha-hydroxy acid, one of its salts and/or their mixtures, preferably chosen from citric acid, sodium citrate and their mixtures.

Advantageously, the total content of the alpha-hydroxy acid(s) and/or their salts ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous, the water content preferably ranging from 50 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 95% by weight, even more preferably from 65 to 90% by weight, better still from 70 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the pH of the composition according to the invention is acidic, ranging from 1 to 6.5, preferably from 3 to 6.

Additives

The composition according to the invention may also contain additives used in cosmetics, different from the ingredients of the invention mentioned above and among which we may cite cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric polymers or their mixtures, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and/or regrowth agents, vitamins including tocopherol and pro-vitamins, sun filters, mineral or organic pigments, sequestering agents, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickening agents, in particular polymeric thickening agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidant agents, perfumes, preservatives, and their mixtures.

These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

A person skilled in the art will take care to choose these possible additives and their quantities so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:

(a) at least one amino acid, one of its salts, and/or their mixtures chosen from glycine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, lysine, polylysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, their salts, and their mixtures, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5%. by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

(b) at least one associative polyurethane chosen from non-ionic associative polyurethanes, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

(c) optionally at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic polysaccharides, alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.00001 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005 to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

(d) at least one polysaccharide different from the cationic polymers chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

(e) at least one amino silicone chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B) as defined above, the amino silicones of formula (N) as defined above, the amino silicones of formula (O) as defined above and their mixtures, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2 to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

More preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:

(a) at least one amino acid, one of its salts, and/or their mixtures chosen from glycine, glutamic acid, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, their salts and their mixtures, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

(b) at least one associative polyurethane chosen from non-ionic associative polyurethanes comprising at least one terminal or pendant fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

(c) optionally at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic galactomannan gums, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.00001 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005 to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

(d) at least one polysaccharide other than the cationic polymers chosen from scleroglucan, hydroxyethylcellulose, and their mixtures, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

(e) at least one amino silicone chosen from the amino silicones of formula (N) as defined above, the amino silicones of formula (O) as defined above and their mixtures, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2 to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Better still, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:

(a) at least one amino acid, one of its salts, and/or their mixtures chosen from glycine, sodium glutamate, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, their salts and their mixtures, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(b) at least one associative polyurethane chosen from nonionic polyether-polyurethanes comprising at least one terminal or pendant fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(c) optionally, at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic guar gums, copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide and their mixtures, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.00001 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.0005 to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

(d) at least one polysaccharide different from the cationic polymers chosen from scleroglucan, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

(e) at least one amino silicone chosen from aminopropyl dimethicones, advantageously in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2 to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials, in particular to said keratin fibers, of a composition as defined above.

The composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratin materials, which may have been washed, for example with a shampoo. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to wet keratin materials, in particular wet keratin fibres.

The keratin materials can then be rinsed with water, and/or possibly washed with shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

Preferably, the keratin materials are not rinsed after application of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously presented in the form of a non-rinsed product.

The invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above for the conditioning of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
The composition can be used on damp or dry hair, in rinsed or unrinsed mode, and preferably in unrinsed mode (i.e. the keratin materials, in particular the keratin fibres, are not rinsed after application of the composition).

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

Examples

In the following examples and unless otherwise indicated, all quantities are indicated as a percentage by mass of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

Composition A according to the invention and comparative composition B were prepared from the ingredients below:

Composition A
(invention) Composition B
(comparative) Butylene glycol 5.5 5.5 Caprylyl glycol 0.7 0.7 Aminopropyl dimethicone 4.9 4.9 Isododecane 4.0 4.0 Isononyl isononanoate 3.0 3.0 Glycine 1.0 - PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether 0.9 0.9 Undecane/tridecane mixture 1.0 1.0 Scleroglucan (sclerotium gum) 0.5 0.5 Conservatives qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

Compositions are obtained which can be used as leave-in hair care compositions.

3g of composition A and B were applied per half-head to the hair of 6 volunteers (mid-length to long hair, sensitized 3 or 4 (this is the level of damage to the fiber, with natural hair corresponding to a sensitization equal to 0)), on wet hair, previously washed with shampoo.

The compositions are left on the hair for 2 minutes then the hair is dried using a hair dryer (standardized blow-dry).

Both compositions were evaluated blindly by an expert, on the following criteria: smooth feel (on damp and dry hair), coating (on dry hair), shine (on dry hair) and ease of combing (on dry hair).

These evaluations were made after application of the care composition, on damp hair (before drying with a hair dryer) and on dry hair.

Evaluation of the smooth touch criterion

To assess the smooth touch criterion, the expert grasps the lock of hair between the thumb and index finger and slides his fingers along the lock from the top to the tips. He assesses whether the hair has no roughness and whether it does not catch the fingers.

Evaluation of the coating criterion

To assess the coating criterion, the expert grasps the strand between the thumb and index finger and slides his fingers along the strand from the top to the tips. He assesses the presence of a coating (presence of product) on the fiber; the more the fiber is coated, the more product is deposited and in this case, the more slippery the touch is thanks to the presence of silicone.

Evaluation of the gloss criterion

To assess the shine criterion, the expert wraps the lock of hair around two fingers, pulling it tight enough to make it taut, then stands under a standardized light (light box) and tilts the lock at different angles to visually judge the level of shine. A shiny lock is characterized by the fact that it reflects light rays particularly well; it therefore has a particular shine.

Assessment d u criterion ease of combing

To assess the criterion of ease of combing, the expert holds the strand in one hand and, with the other hand, passes the fine teeth of a comb from the top to the ends. If the comb blocks, the expert performs the same gesture using the large teeth of the comb. An easy combing is characterized by the fact that the fine-toothed comb passes and does not get stuck in the hair.

The following results were obtained:

Criteria Invention > comparison Invention = comparative Invention < comparative Smooth touch – damp hair 5 1 0 Smooth touch – dry hair 6 0 0 Coating – dry hair 4 2 0 Shine – dry hair 5 1 0 Ease of combing – dry hair 4 2 0

It is therefore noted that composition A according to the invention makes it possible to obtain significantly superior cosmetic properties in terms of shine, coating of the fiber and ease of combing on dry hair, and in terms of its smoothness to the touch on dry and damp hair, compared with comparative composition B.

Example 2

Composition C according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients below:

Composition C
(invention) Butylene glycol 5.5 Caprylyl glycol 0.7 Aminopropyl dimethicone 4.9 Isododecane 4.0 Isononyl isononanoate 3.0 Glycine 1.0 PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether 0.9 Undecane/tridecane mixture 1.0 Scleroglucan 0.5 Tocopherol 0.25 Citric acid 0.06 Polyquaternium-7 0.0009 Conservatives qs Water Qsp 100

The result is a composition that can be used as a leave-in hair care composition.

6 g of composition C were applied to wet hair (sensitized hair) previously washed with shampoo.

The composition is left on the hair for 2 minutes and then the hair is dried with a hair dryer.

Composition C according to the invention has good qualities of use and makes it possible to obtain very good cosmetic properties.

In particular, the composition according to the invention is easy to apply and distribute on the hair. It has a unique, slippery and melting texture.

Thanks to composition C, very good detangling of the hair is obtained. Composition C also provides a smooth feel to the hair. It also provides shine and discipline (ease of combing) to the hair.

Copper removal in multi-application

Six strands of hair (Caucasian, SA20 sensitized) are previously enriched with copper at a content of approximately 160 ppm per g of hair.

Three of these strands of hair are then treated with composition C according to the invention.

The copper content of the treated hair strands is then measured and compared to the copper content of the remaining untreated hair strands (control strands).

Protocol for witness wicks

The three control wicks undergo the following cycle:

The hair strands are wet and washed with 0.55g of DOP shampoo per gram of strand. Then the strands are rinsed with water at 30°C, passing 20 times between the fingers, then dried with a hair dryer for 5 minutes.

Protocol for wicks treated with composition C

The three strands treated with composition C undergo the following cycle:

0.15 g of composition C per gram of strand is applied to each strand. The strands are dried with a hair dryer for 5 minutes. The strands are then wet and washed with 0.55 g of DOP shampoo per gram of strand. Then the strands are rinsed with water at 35°C, passing 20 times between the fingers, then dried with a hair dryer for 5 minutes.

The protocols for the strands treated with composition C and for the control strands are repeated in order to carry out 10 cycles.

At the end of cycles 1, 5 and 10, 20 micrograms of hair are taken from the strand and cut into small pieces for analysis.

The copper content of the wicks is determined using a spectrometer using the ICP/OES method. The following results are obtained (average of 3 wicks):

At T0 After 1 cycle After 5 cycles After 10 cycles Strands treated with composition C
Copper content (ppm) per g of hair 152 ± 26 114 ± 6 101 ± 12 79 ± 9 Percentage decrease compared to the previous cycle - 25% 34% 48% Witness wicks Copper content (ppm) per g of hair 168 ± 72 172 ± 53 145 ± 5 126 ± 14 Percentage decrease compared to the previous cycle - - 14% 25%

Composition C according to the invention leads to better elimination of copper ions, compared to a shampoo alone.

The improved elimination of copper ions is noticeable from the first application of composition C: a 25% reduction in the copper content present in the hair is observed for the strands treated with composition C according to the invention, while no variation is observed for the control strands.

The improved removal of copper ions with composition C is even more noticeable after 5 and 10 cycles, compared to the removal observed for shampoo alone.

Claims (16)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) at least one amino acid, one of its salts, and/or mixtures thereof;
(b) at least one associative polyurethane;
(c) optionally at least one cationic polymer;
(d) at least one polysaccharide different from the cationic polymers; and
(e) at least one amino silicone. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the amino acid(s) are chosen from glycine, glutamic acid, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, their salts and their mixtures, more preferably from glycine, sodium glutamate, arginine, sarcosine, dihydroxypropylarginine, citrulline, their salts and their mixtures, even more preferably from glycine, arginine, their salts and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the amino acid(s), one of their salts and/or their mixtures, preferably glycine and/or arginine and/or their salts and/or their mixtures, ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of the amino acid(s), one of their salts and/or their mixtures, preferably glycine and/or arginine and/or their salts and/or their mixtures, is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably ranges from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the associative polyurethane(s) are chosen from non-ionic associative polyurethanes, preferably from those comprising at least one terminal or pendant fatty chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the associative polyurethane(s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from polymers of the following families:
- homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formula:

in which:
- R ₃ , identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
- A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R ₄ , R ₅ , R ₆ , identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;
- cationic polysaccharides;
- alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers;
- quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole;
preferably among cationic polysaccharides, cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium and mixtures thereof, preferentially among cationic galactomannan gums, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially among cationic guar gums, copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide and mixtures thereof, better still among copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide(s) other than the cationic polymers are chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides, preferentially from scleroglucan, hydroxyethylcellulose, and their mixtures, more preferentially from scleroglucan. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the polysaccharide(s) other than the cationic polymers ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amino silicone(s) are chosen from:
- amino silicones of the following formula (A):

in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular weight (Mw) is between about 5,000 and 500,000;
- amino silicones of the following formula (B):
R' _a G _3-a -Si(OSiG ₂ ) _n -(OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _3-a' -R'_a' (B)
in which:
- G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, _C1 - _C8 alkyl, for example methyl, or _C1 - _C8 alkoxy, for example methoxy,
- a, a', identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,
- b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
- R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups: -N(R")2 ; -N+(R")3 A- ; -NR"-QN(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A-, in which R", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula C _r H _2r , linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide;
- amino silicones corresponding to the formula (H):

in which:
- R ₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by a SiC bond;
- Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;
- s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50;
- quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I):

in which:
- R ₇ , identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical or a cycle comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by a SiC bond;
- R ₈ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical, a -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ radical;
- X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100,
- amino silicones of formula (J):

in which:
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , identical or different, denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
- R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq/g;
- multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB) _n , A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group;
- amino silicones of formula (L):
(L)
in which:
- R, R' and R''', identical or different, denote a _C1 - _C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
- A denotes a _C3 alkylene radical; and
- m and n are numbers such that the weight average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000;
- amino silicones of formula (M):
(M)
in which:
- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably y ranges from 1 to 100;
- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, preferably identical, denote an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms;
- amino silicones of formula (N):
(N),
in which the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight of the amino silicone is between 1,000 and 55,000;
- amino silicones of formula (O):
(O),
wherein the value of n is such that the weight average molecular weight of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3,000;
- amino silicones of formula (P):
(P)
in which the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000;
- and their mixtures; preferably among the amino silicones of formula (N), the amino silicones of formula (O) and their mixtures, preferentially among the amino silicones of formula (N). Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the amino silicone(s) ranges from 0.01 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferentially from 0.2 to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance, preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances, more preferably chosen from liquid C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes, linear C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes, monoesters of monoalcohols and mixtures thereof, better still from branched C ₁₁ -C ₁₅ alkanes, linear C ₁₁ -C ₁₅ alkanes, monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one polyol. Process for treating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, preferably hair, comprising the application to said materials of the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the keratin materials, in particular the keratin fibers, are not rinsed after application of the composition. Use of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13 for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, preferably hair.