FR3143366A1 - Cosmetic active ingredient containing an extract of Aureobasidium pullulans - Google Patents

Abstract

The present relates to a cosmetic active ingredient obtained from a yeast of the Aureobasidium pullulans species and its cosmetic uses, in particular for an anti-aging application.

Description

Cosmetic active ingredient containing an extract of Aureobasidium pullulans

The invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient obtained from a yeast of the Aureobasidium pullulans species and its cosmetic uses, in particular for an anti-aging application.

State of the art

The cosmetics industry is always looking for new cosmetic ingredients to meet consumer needs.

There is therefore a need for new anti-aging cosmetic products that can, above all, improve the radiance of the complexion and the barrier function, or even reduce redness or even reduce wrinkles.

To meet this need, the inventor was interested in natural and original raw materials to develop such ingredients. Yeasts, in particular so-called adaptogenic and polyextremotolerant yeasts, have the particularity of surviving in very hostile environments (extreme temperatures, environments poor in nutrients or organic matter, dry environments, or even environments very exposed to UV rays). To survive, they have been able to develop remarkable adaptation mechanisms and thus represent a certain interest for the cosmetic industry.

Unlike the prior art which essentially uses the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans to ferment animal or plant organic matter or produce a particular polysaccharide, pullulan, the inventor uses yeast biomass to develop new ingredients of interest.

In this context, the inventor has, very surprisingly, identified a yeast belonging to the species Aureobasidium pullulans in the microbiota of rose bushes grown on the Valensol plateau in France.

Thus, the invention proposes a new cosmetic active ingredient obtained from a yeast of the Aureobasidium pullulans species.

The yeast Aureobasidium pullulans , also called black yeast, is ubiquitous, polyextremotolerant and occurs either in the form of a filamentous fungus or in unicellular form. Aureobasidium pullulans is well known as a natural epiphyte of many plant species, such as apples and grapes. For several years, it has been used in biotechnology for the production of several enzymes or in the fight against certain plant diseases, such as apple tree disease.

Finally, cosmetic compositions comprising a culture supernatant of Aureobasidium pullulans or plant extracts fermented by Aureobasidium pullulans are also known, but no teaching describes the use of an extract of Aureobasidium pullulans containing at least 25 % of sugars according to the present invention for an anti-aging effect.

Also, the invention aims at a cosmetic active principle comprising at least one extract derived from the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans , in particular a cosmetic active principle comprising at least 25% sugars, by weight of dry matter of the 'extract.

In the context of the invention, the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans was taken from rose bushes, advantageously cultivated on the Valensol plateau (France), preferably the yeast is taken from the flowers, and/or the thorns and/or the roots of Rosa sp .

The invention also relates to a process for preparing the active principle according to the invention, comprising in particular a cultivation of the biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans in a culture medium, followed by a solubilization of the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans in water , extraction of the sugars, separation of the soluble and insoluble phase, then recovery of the soluble phase, enzymatic inactivation, purification and possibly concentration of the extract followed by sterilizing filtration.

The active ingredient according to the invention is of natural origin. It advantageously presents an anti-aging effect, thus making it possible to respond to the problems of the prior art. Also, it can be used for cosmetic applications and thus be integrated into a cosmetic composition, advantageously a composition in a form suitable for topical application. The invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic use of a composition comprising at least 0.1% by weight of the active principle according to the invention, in particular for its anti-aging effects.

Other characteristics and advantages will emerge from the detailed description of the invention and the examples which follow.

Detailed description of the invention

Definition

By “ Aureobasidium pullulans ” within the meaning of the invention is meant any yeast of the Dothioraceae family, of the Aureobasidium genus and of the Aureobasidium pullulans species. Preferably, a strain of the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans registered in a yeast collection (CIRM), under the number CLIB 2138. Preferably, Aureobasidium pullulans was isolated from rose bushes ( Rosa sp .).

By “cosmetic active ingredient” within the meaning of the invention is meant an extract comprising at least one set of molecules having a cosmetic effect on the skin. Preferably the cosmetic effect on the skin is an anti-aging effect.

By “extract of Aureobasidium pullulans ” within the meaning of the invention, is meant an extract comprising at least one set of molecules, preferably an extract of the biomass of the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans comprising at least sugars representing at least 25% by weight of the total weight of the extract, obtained from any extraction process well known to those skilled in the art, for example by induced autolysis, sonication, homogenization, chemical hydrolysis, or enzymatic hydrolysis. Such extraction processes are described in the publications Varelas V. et al. , Anal Drug Test. 2016 Jan and Du L. et al. Molecules. 2020 Jan 23. The extract according to the invention is not an extract from the culture supernatant of Aureobasidium pullulans.

By “extract from the yeast culture supernatant” is meant an extract which is not an extract from the culture biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans.

Active principle according to the invention

The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one extract of the biomass of yeast of the species Aureobasidium pullulans , in which the extract is rich in sugars.

According to one embodiment, the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans is preferably the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans is obtained from rose bushes, more preferably from the flowers, and/or thorns and/or roots of Rosa sp .

Aureobasidium pullulans biomass is notably produced from yeast. This step is carried out according to the yeast cultivation method, in a medium suitable for their development, for example a conventional culture medium suitable for those skilled in the art. Once the biomass has been obtained, an extraction step is carried out in order to obtain the active molecules, preferably an extraction of the sugars.

The extract according to the invention comprises at least 25% sugars by weight of dry matter of the extract. The extract according to the invention may also comprise peptides and mineral ashes.

Thus, the extract according to the invention comprises sugars, these represent at least 25% of the extract, by weight of dry matter of the extract. Preferably, the extract according to the invention comprises at least 30% sugars, by weight of dry matter of the extract.

The total sugar content in said active ingredient can be determined by the DUBOIS method (Dubois M. et al., Analytical chemistry, 28, 3, 350-356, 1956). The total sugar content in the active ingredient according to the invention is expressed as a percentage relative to the dry matter.

The size of the sugars present in the extract can be characterized by HPLC/RI chromatography. They can be in the form of monosaccharides or in the form of oligosaccharides, preferably the oligosaccharides have a molar mass of less than 1800Da.

Particularly preferably, the oligosaccharides are the majority in the extract according to the present invention. Finally, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the sugars of the extract are composed of at least 80% oligosaccharides.

Preferably, the oligosaccharides of the extract are glucose oligosaccharides linked by alpha bonds and/or glucose oligosaccharides linked by beta bonds.

Alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharides are oligomers consisting of D-glucose linked by alpha bonds. These oligosaccharides present in the active ingredient according to the invention have a degree of polymerization (DP) of between 2 and 10 units, and have a molar mass of less than 1800 Daltons. Preferably, they represent between 1.5 and 4 g/L.

Beta-linked glucose oligosaccharides are oligosaccharides, consisting of D-glucose linked by beta bonds. These oligosaccharides present in the active principle according to the invention have a degree of polymerization of between 2 and 10 units, and have a molar mass of less than 1800 Daltons. Preferably, they represent between 1.5 and 4 g/L.

Also, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprises sugars with oligosaccharide structures having a degree of polymerization (DP) less than 10, i.e. a molar mass less than 1800 Daltons.

The extract according to the invention also comprises peptides. Preferably, these represent at least 30% by weight of dry matter of the extract. The peptide content can be determined by measuring the total nitrogen content according to the KJELDHAL method (reference: Official method of analysis of the A.O.C., 12th ed. W Horwitz, E.D., New York, 15-60, 1975). Peptides have a molar mass of less than 2000Da. The distribution and molar mass of the peptides can be determined by F.P.L.C. chromatography. steric exclusion (Fast Protein Liquid Chromatography), the quantity of each peptide fraction is determined by spectrophotometric assay according to the Lowry method (Lowry et al., Protein measurement with the Folin reagent, J. Biol. Chem., 193, 265 -275, 1951).

When the extract according to the invention comprises mineral ashes, the ash content is preferably between 8 and 18% by weight relative to the dry matter of the extract, even more preferably between 10 and 15%. The raw ash content can be determined by weighing the residue from the incineration of the samples at 550°C in a muffle furnace. The nature of the minerals contained in the ashes can be determined by optical emission spectrometry (ICP/OES). The dosage of chloride ions contained in the ashes is carried out by titration with silver nitrate. Preferably, the mineral ashes contained in the extract according to the invention comprise calcium, phosphorus, chloride ions, magnesium, sulfur and sodium.

The dry matter content of the extract can be determined by weighing the residues resulting from drying the extract according to the invention at 105°C in an oven until a constant weight is obtained. Preferably, the extract according to the invention in liquid form has a dry matter content of: 10 g/L to 40 g/L, even more preferably 17 g/L to 26 g/L.

The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention can be in liquid form or in solid form.

When it is in liquid form, the active ingredient according to the invention is preferably the extract as described previously as such. It comes in the form of a clear liquid, very light yellow in color and with a faint odor. It may, however, be more colored and/or be discolored by any process known to those skilled in the art. The active ingredient can also be combined with stabilizing agents or preservatives.

When it is in solid form, the active principle according to the invention is preferably constituted by the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans as previously described and by a support chosen from maltodextrin, gum arabic, soy lecithin or isomalt. According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the extract represents at least 10% by weight of the active principle and the support at most 90% by weight of the active principle.

In the case of a solid form in which the active principle is associated with a support, the contents of peptides, sugars and mineral ash in the active principle are modified, the support generally consisting mainly of sugars.

The active ingredient according to the invention can optionally be integrated into a cosmetic composition, in particular a composition comprising at least 0.1% by weight of said active ingredient. In particular, the composition is in a form suitable for topical application such as a cream or lotion.

Extraction process

The extract constituting or contained in the active principle according to the invention can be obtained by any process comprising at least one step of extracting the biomass of the yeast of Aureobasidium pullulans . According to the present invention, the extraction of the yeast biomass does not consist of the recovery of the supernatant of the yeast culture.

Prior to the process of obtaining the extract as such, it is appropriate to produce the biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans . This step is carried out according to the method of cultivating the yeasts in a medium suitable for their development, for example a conventional culture medium suitable for those skilled in the art. Once the biomass has been obtained, an extraction step is carried out in order to obtain the active molecules, preferably sugars. The extraction step is carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by induced autolysis, sonication, homogenization, enzymatic lysis, chemical hydrolysis, enzymatic hydrolysis.

1. culture de la biomasse d’Aureobasidium pullulansdans un milieu de culture, préférentiellement un milieu de culture adapté,
2. solubilisation à raison d’au moins 50 g/L de la biomasse d’Aureobasidium pullulansdans l’eau,
3. extraction, préférentiellement extraction des sucres,
4. traitement thermique,
5. séparation de la phase soluble et insoluble, et récupération de la phase soluble,
6. purification par tri moléculaire, et éventuellement décoloration et désodorisation,
7. éventuellement concentration et filtration stérilisante.

According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the active principle according to the invention is obtained by implementing the following steps:

1. cultivation of the biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans in a culture medium, preferably a suitable culture medium,
2. solubilization at a rate of at least 50 g/L of the biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans in water,
3. extraction, preferably extraction of sugars,
4. thermal treatment,
5. separation of the soluble and insoluble phase, and recovery of the soluble phase,
6. purification by molecular sorting, and possibly decolorization and deodorization,
7. possibly concentration and sterilizing filtration.

The separation of the soluble and insoluble phase is carried out by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example by centrifugation, filtration or decantation. Preferably, the separation of the soluble and insoluble phases is carried out to recover the soluble phase containing, among other things, soluble sugars, such as oligosaccharides.

Optionally, the process includes a filtration step after recovery of the soluble phase to eliminate particles still in suspension. Thus, this filtration step allows the purification of the recovered soluble phase and is carried out in order to eliminate high molecular weight molecules.

The product obtained at this stage can optionally be further concentrated and/or purified, preferably by successive ultrafiltration stages through filters of different porosity, preserving the filtrates at each stage and/or by a chromatographic type method.

The product obtained after filtration, before or after concentration and sterilizing filtration, is an extract of Aureobasidium pullulans , and constitutes a first form of the active principle according to the invention, then present in liquid form.

• un support d’atomisation, de préférence la maltodextrine, est ajouté dans l’extrait d’Aureobasidium pullulans, d’au plus 90% (en masse/volume) ;
• cette solution est ensuite concentrée sous vide ;
• une élimination des bactéries éventuellement présentes est réalisée par traitement thermique ;
• l’atomisation permet d’obtenir une poudre.

The extract obtained can then be dried and associated or not with a support, to be presented in solid form. This phase can be achieved by implementing the following steps:

• an atomization support, preferably maltodextrin, is added to the extract of Aureobasidium pullulans , at most 90% (by mass/volume);
• this solution is then concentrated under vacuum;
• any bacteria present is eliminated by heat treatment;
• atomization produces a powder.

The steps of the processes described above, taken individually, are usual in the field of extractions of active ingredients from yeast and those skilled in the art are able to adjust the reaction parameters on the basis of their general knowledge.

Cosmetic use

The active ingredient according to the invention is of particular interest for its anti-aging effects.

The invention thus aims at a cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of the active principle according to the invention for its cosmetic effects, alone for at least one anti-aging cosmetic effect.

For the purposes of the invention, non-therapeutic use means a cosmetic use of the active ingredient according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, intended for healthy, non-sick people, in particular for people with healthy skin.

Preferably, the active ingredient according to the invention, alone or in a composition, is intended to be used in topical application on the skin.

The active principle according to the invention can be introduced into compositions of at least 0.1% by weight of the active principle according to the invention. These compositions comprise, in addition to the active ingredient, a physiologically acceptable and preferably cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which does not cause unacceptable sensations of discomfort for the user such as redness, tightness or tingling.

The invention is now illustrated by non-limiting examples of compositions according to the invention and by results.

Examples

Example 1 – Active principle according to the invention

1. Culture deAureobasidium pullulansdans un milieu de culture adapté
2. Solubilisation de la biomasse de la levureAureobasidium pullulansdans l’eau, à raison de 50g/l,
3. Extraction des sucres,
4. Traitement thermique,
5. Séparation des phases solubles et insolubles,

1. Purification par tri moléculaire,
2. Concentration, et
3. Filtration stérilisante.

The active ingredient of Example 1 is obtained from an Aureobasidium pullulans yeast isolated from rose bushes. The active principle of Example 1 is obtained by the following process:

1. Cultivation of Aureobasidium pullulans in a suitable culture medium
2. Solubilization of the biomass of the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans in water, at a rate of 50g/l,
3. Extraction of sugars,
4. Thermal treatment,
5. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases,

1. Purification by molecular sorting,
2. Concentration, and
3. Sterilizing filtration.

• Teneur en Matières Sèches = 20,1 g/L dont :
• Teneur en Sucres Totaux (selon la méthode de Dubois) = 6,9 g/L (34%, en poids par rapport à la matière sèche)
  1. Dont la teneur en oligosaccharides de glucose liés en alpha = 2,5g/L
  2. Dont la teneur en oligosaccharides de glucose liés en bêta = 2,5g/L
• Teneur en peptides (selon la méthode KJELDHAL) = 6,6 g/L (33%, en poids par rapport à la matière sèche)
• Teneur en cendres minérales = 2,5 g/L (12%, en poids par rapport à la matière sèche)
• pH = 3,5
• Liquide limpide, jaune très clair, faible odeur

The active ingredient obtained has the following characteristics:

• Dry Matter Content = 20.1 g/L including:
• Total Sugar Content (according to the Dubois method) = 6.9 g/L (34%, by weight relative to dry matter)
  1. Of which the content of alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharides = 2.5g/L
  2. Of which the content of beta-linked glucose oligosaccharides = 2.5g/L
• Peptide content (according to the KJELDHAL method) = 6.6 g/L (33%, by weight relative to dry matter)
• Mineral ash content = 2.5 g/L (12%, by weight relative to dry matter)
• pH = 3.5
• Clear liquid, very light yellow, faint odor

Example 2 – Active ingredient out invention

1. Culture deAureobasi di um pullulansdans un milieu de culture adapté
2. Solubilisation de la biomasse de la levureAureobasidium pullulansdans l’eau, à raison de 50g/l,
3. Extraction des protéines,
4. Traitement thermique,
5. Séparation des phases solubles et insolubles,
6. Purification par tri moléculaire,
7. Concentration, et
8. Filtration stérilisante.

The active principle of Example 2 is also obtained from an Aureobasidium pullulans yeast isolated from rose bushes. The active principle of Example 2 is obtained by the following process:

1. Cultivation of Aureobasi di um pullulans in a suitable culture medium
2. Solubilization of the biomass of the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans in water, at a rate of 50g/l,
3. Protein extraction,
4. Thermal treatment,
5. Separation of soluble and insoluble phases,
6. Purification by molecular sorting,
7. Concentration, and
8. Sterilizing filtration.

• Teneur en Matières Sèches = 26,8 g/L dont :
• Teneur en Sucres Totaux (selon la méthode Dubois) = 2,5 g/L (9%, en poids par rapport à la matière sèche)
• Teneur en Peptides (selon la méthode de KJELDHAL) = 12,4 g/L (46%, en poids par rapport à la matière sèche)
• Teneur en Cendres minérales = 5 g/L (19%, en poids par rapport à la matière sèche)
• pH = 3,6
• Liquide limpide, jaune très clair, odeur faible.

The active ingredient obtained has the following characteristics:

• Dry Matter Content = 26.8 g/L including:
• Total Sugar Content (according to the Dubois method) = 2.5 g/L (9%, by weight relative to dry matter)
• Peptide content (according to the KJELDHAL method) = 12.4 g/L (46%, by weight relative to dry matter)
• Mineral ash content = 5 g/L (19%, by weight relative to dry matter)
• pH = 3.6
• Clear liquid, very light yellow, faint odor.

Example 3 – Active ingredient outside the invention

1. Culture deAureobasidium pullulansdans un milieu de culture adapté
2. Séparation physique afin de récupérer le surnageant de culture de la biomasse
3. Filtration stérilisante

The active principle of Example 3 is obtained from the culture supernatant of the biomass of Aureobasidium pullulans .

1. Cultivation of Aureobasidium pullulans in a suitable culture medium
2. Physical separation to recover the culture supernatant from the biomass
3. Sterilizing filtration

• Teneur en Matières Sèches = 9,6 g/L dont :
• Teneur en Sucres Totaux (selon la méthode de Dubois) = 1,6 g/L (17%, en poids par rapport à la matière sèche)
• Teneur en Protéines (selon la méthode de Lowry) = 0,11 g/L (1%, en poids par rapport à la matière sèche)
• Teneur en Cendres minérales = 6,2 g/L (65%, en poids par rapport à la matière sèche)
• pH = 6,9
• Liquide limpide, jaune clair, odeur faible.

The active ingredient obtained has the following characteristics:

• Dry Matter Content = 9.6 g/L including:
• Total Sugar Content (according to the Dubois method) = 1.6 g/L (17%, by weight relative to dry matter)
• Protein content (according to the Lowry method) = 0.11 g/L (1%, by weight relative to dry matter)
• Mineral ash content = 6.2 g/L (65%, by weight relative to dry matter)
• pH = 6.9
• Clear, light yellow liquid, faint odor.

Evaluation of the cosmetic effect of the active ingredient according to the invention

Test 1 - Effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on the aging of epidermal compartment cells

The present study aims to study the expression of certain genes and to determine the level of certain proteins in keratinocytes treated with the different extracts. Keratinocytes are aged using UVB radical stress, or are derived from aged donors.

Table 1 lists the epidermal compartment genes modulated during aging by free radical stress.

Symbol Name HSP90AA1 heat shock protein 90 alpha family class A member 1 SIRT1 sirtuin 1

Table 2 lists the epidermal compartment proteins modulated during aging by free radical stress.

Name Symbol Parkinson disease protein 7 DJ-1 Tumor necrosis factor receptor superfamily member 6 TNR6

The results of the study are presented in Tables 3 to 5 below. Table 3 represents the expression of the HSP90AA1 and SIRT1 genes in keratinocytes subjected to UVB radical stress and treated with the different extracts.

HSP90AA1 (%) Efficiency (%) SIRT1 (%) Efficiency (%) Unaged, unstressed keratinocytes Witness 100 100 Keratinocytes aged by UVB stress Witness 39 16 EXAMPLE 1 0.5% 58 + 48 33 + 106 EXAMPLE 2 0.5% 46 + 18 20 + 25 EXAMPLE 3 0.5% 44 + 13 3 0

The active principle according to the invention, rich in sugars, (example 1) has a better effect on the expression of the HSP90AA1 and SIRT1 genes in keratinocytes aged by UVB stress than the extracts outside the invention (example 2 and example 3).

Table 4 below represents the expression levels of DJ-1 and TNR6 proteins in keratinocytes aged by UVB stress and treated with the different extracts.

DJ-1 (%) Efficiency (%) TNR6 (%) Efficiency (%) Unaged, unstressed keratinocytes Witness 100 100 Keratinocytes aged by UVB stress Witness 2496 507 EXAMPLE 1 0.5% 2227 - 11 310 - 39 EXAMPLE 2 0.5% 2290 - 8 417 - 18 EXAMPLE 3 0.5% 2453 - 2 507 0

The active principle according to the invention, rich in sugars, (example 1) has a better effect on the level of DJ-1 and TNR6 proteins in keratinocytes aged by UVB stress than the extracts outside the invention (example 2 and example 3).

Table 5 below represents the expression levels of the DJ-1 protein in keratinocytes from elderly donors and treated with the active ingredient according to the invention (example 1).

DJ-1 (%) Efficiency (%) Young keratinocytes Witness 100 Aged keratinocytes Witness 118 EXAMPLE 1 0.5% 54 - 54

The active ingredient (example 1) according to the invention, rich in sugars, has a significant effect on the level of expression of the DJ-1 protein in keratinocytes from elderly donors. This result confirms the results obtained on keratinocytes aged by radical stress.

Thus, the sugar-rich extract according to example 1 has an effect on the aging metabolism pathways (HSP90AA1 +48%, SIRT1 +106%, DJ 1 -54%, TNR6 -39%).

The extract according to example 2, rich in proteins, has a much weaker effect on the metabolic pathways of aging. Also, it is less effective than the extract according to example 1.

The extract according to example 3, extracted from the supernatant, does not have any effect on the aging metabolism pathways in the epidermal compartment.

Also, an extract rich in sugars provides an improved effect on aging metabolism pathways.

Test 2 – Effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on the migration of keratinocytes aged

The present study aims to investigate the ability of different extracts to increase cell migration of normal human keratinocytes. Cell migration is the ability of certain cells to move; this migratory capacity is reduced with age.

The present study is carried out on keratinocytes from elderly donors (> 60 years).

Table 6 below represents the quantification of the migration of keratinocytes in the wound carried out in cultures of aged keratinocytes, treated with the different extracts.

Migration / Control (%) Efficacy / Control (%) Witness 100 EXAMPLE 1 0.5% 123 +23 EXAMPLE 3 0.5% 100 0

The extract according to Example 3 has no effect on the migration of aged keratinocytes. Conversely, the extract according to example 1 stimulates the migration of aged keratinocytes by 23%. Here again, the extract rich in sugars according to the invention of Example 1 allows an improved effect in stimulating the migration of aged keratinocytes and therefore anti-aging effectiveness.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic active ingredient comprising at least one extract of yeast biomass of the species Aureobasidium pullulans , characterized in that the extract comprises at least 25% sugars, by weight of dry matter of the extract. Cosmetic active ingredient according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the yeast Aureobasidium pullulans is isolated from rose bushes. Cosmetic active ingredient according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the yeast is isolated from the flowers, and/or thorns and/or roots of Rosa sp . Cosmetic active ingredient according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract comprises at least 30% sugars, by weight of dry matter of the extract. Cosmetic active ingredient according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the sugars of the extract are composed of at least 80% of oligosaccharides, by weight of dry matter of the sugars. Cosmetic active ingredient according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oligosaccharides are alpha-linked glucose oligosaccharides and/or beta-linked glucose oligosaccharides. Cosmetic active ingredient according to one of claims 5 or 6, characterized in that the oligosaccharides have a molar mass of less than 1800 Da. Cosmetic active ingredient according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in liquid form or in solid form. Cosmetic active ingredient according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it can be obtained by a process comprising the following steps:

1. cultivation of Aureobasidium pullulans biomass in a culture medium
2. solubilization of at least 50g/L of Aureobasidium pullulans in water,
3. extraction of sugars,
4. thermal treatment,
5. separation of the soluble and insoluble phase, and recovery of the soluble phase,
6. purification by molecular sorting, and possibly decolorization and deodorization, and
7. possibly concentration and sterilizing filtration.

Process for preparing an active ingredient according to one of claims 1 to 9 comprising the following steps:

1. cultivation of Aureobasidium pullulans biomass in a culture medium
2. solubilization of at least 50g/L of Aureobasidium pullulans in water,
3. extraction of sugars,
4. thermal treatment,
5. separation of the soluble and insoluble phase, and recovery of the soluble phase,
6. purification by molecular sorting, and possibly decolorization and deodorization, and
7. possibly concentration and sterilizing filtration.