FR2983729A1 - Composition, useful for skin and hair care and for treating keratinous materials including mucosa, lips, scalp, eyelashes and eyebrows, comprises a combination of scleroglucan and agar in a specific weight ratio - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprises a combination of scleroglucan and agar, where the weight ratio of scleroglucan and agar is 25:75-45:55.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of the manufacture of cosmetic compositions. In general, the cosmetic compositions are useful for improving or protecting the appearance of the human body. The cosmetic compositions include the compositions intended for caring for and / or making up keratin materials. Within the meaning of the invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to include the skin, the mucous membranes, the lips, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair. The cosmetic compositions include shampoos, skin care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipstick compositions, nail polishes, face and eye makeup compositions, hair permeating compositions, hair dyeing compositions, hairsprays and hair gels, deodorants, baby products, bath oils, bubble bath products, bath salts, or cosmetic butters such as compositions based on cocoa butter. A large number of cosmetic compositions are in the form of emulsions, which must remain stable both during the storage period and after their application to the body. In order to control the viscosity or stability of cosmetic compositions, hydrocolloid substances are conventionally used which have the ability to bind and retain water at a multiple of their weight. These hydrocolloids induce a thickening of the cosmetic compositions. As hydrocolloids, predominantly organopolymers such as crosslinked polyacylates (also referred to as "carbomers") are used. However, for the manufacture of cosmetic compositions, there is an increasing interest for the use of natural substances, whether they are natural substances of plant origin or of animal origin. The substitution of substances obtained by chemical synthesis with natural substances concerns various components of a cosmetic composition, that is to say both the cosmetic active ingredients and the various excipients. Stabilizers or natural thickeners, such as fatty alcohols or vegetable gums, are known.

However, the experiment illustrates that the natural stabilizing or thickening agents currently used do not make it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions, including cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsion or butter, having the desired viscosity properties. Cosmetic compositions based on thickeners and / or natural stabilizers often have an undesirable effect of soap, that is to say, generate a persistent white film on the surface of the skin. When a fatty alcohol or a combination of fatty alcohols is added to thicken cosmetic compositions, especially cosmetic compositions in the form of an emulsion, the desired level of viscosity is attained only for a large quantity of alcohol (s). ) fat, which helps to increase the soap effect, which substantially reduces the penetration properties through the skin and is particularly unsightly. When adding known natural polymers, even in large quantities, the desired level of thickening or viscosity can not generally be achieved, which leads to a low stability of the final cosmetic composition. Known natural polymers include celluloses, starches, xanthan gum, gum, locust bean gum, scleroglucan gum, carrageenans or even pectins. In addition, the use of the amount of natural polymer (s) which allows for a significant increase in the viscosity of a cosmetic composition simultaneously leads to a loss of the textural properties, which is manifested by a running behavior when application to keratin materials and linting of the composition, particularly on the surface of the skin. There is a need in the state of the art for the availability of cosmetic compositions based on natural substances, which exhibit the desired viscosity or stability without causing undesirable property, particularly without causing soap or fluffing effect. when applied on the skin or on keratinous fibers. Unexpectedly, it is shown according to the invention that cosmetic compositions having the desired viscosity level, and not having the above disadvantages, can be prepared by adding a combination of scleroglucan and agar, defined proportions.

Unexpectedly, it is also shown according to the invention that the desired viscosity properties of a cosmetic composition are obtained by the addition of a reduced amount of such a combination of scleroglucan and agar. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: a physiologically acceptable medium, a combination of scleroglucan and agar in a scleroglucan / agar weight ratio ranging from 25/75 to 45/55. The present invention also relates to the use of a combination of scleroglucan and agar in a scleroglucan / agar weight ratio ranging from 25/75 to 45/55 for adjusting the viscosity of a cosmetic composition.

The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising applying to said keratin materials a cosmetic composition as defined above. Within the scope of the invention, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are within this range.

It has been shown according to the invention that the use of the combination of scleroglucan and agar in weight ratios respectively higher or lower than the weight ratio prescribed above does not allow to generate the desired viscosity properties. Thus, the results of the examples show that a combination of scleroglucan and agar s weight ratio scleroglucan / agar greater than 45/55, for example in a weight ratio 50/50, leads to obtaining a composition having low viscosity level. Also, the results of the examples show that the combination of scleroglucan and agar s weight ratio scleroglucan / agar less than 25/75 also leads to the production of a composition having an insufficient viscosity level with respect to the technical effect sought. Surprisingly, it is shown according to the invention the synergistic effect of a combination of scleroglucan and agar, in the weight ratio range defined above, on the viscosity properties of a composition, and more specifically viscosity properties of a cosmetic composition. By "synergistic effect" is meant according to the invention that the effect on the viscosity of the combination of scleroglucan and agar, at a given amount by weight of said combination, is greater than the addition of the effects of the same. given amount by weight of each of the two compounds used alone. The use of scleroglucan or agar has already been described in cosmetic compositions.

However, to the applicant's knowledge, the combined use of scleroglucan and agar, in particular in cosmetic compositions, has not been described in the state of the art. A fortiori, no synergistic effect has been reported between scleroglucan and agar on the viscosity properties of a composition, especially in the scleroglucan / agar weight ratio range mentioned above.

Sogloglucan Scleroglucans are nonionic natural water-soluble polymers that are produced by many filamentous fungi, such as, for example, Sclerotium rolfisii.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "scleroglucan" is intended to mean a hydrophilic colloid in the form of a D-glucopyranose polymer, generally of microbial origin, in particular of fungal origin, which is known to stabilize and thicken aqueous systems by increasing their viscosity. On an industrial scale, scleroglucans are obtained by submerged aerobic culture of strains of selected microorganisms, in particular selected fungal strains. In particular, scleroglucan can be obtained in a known manner by an aerobic fermentation process of a Sclerotium fungus. Scleroglucans consist of a sequence of 13-1,3-glucose units with a base sequence of three units of P-1,3-glucose comprising a p-1,6-glucose side chain. Scleroglucans are compounds of formula (I) below (I), in which n is an integer ranging from 500 to 1600. The integer "n" materializes the degree of polymerization of said scleroglucan. In some embodiments, the scleroglucan has an average molecular weight ranging from 1x106 to 12x106, which includes 2x106 to 10x106. Preferably, the molecular weight of a scleroglucan is determined according to the Taudinger index ("Staudinger Index") TI using the following Mark-Houwink equation (A) MW = [1 / 4x45x10-11 / 1.49. The scleroglucans according to the invention include the products sold under the name Acti CSTM by Sanofi Bio Industries, such as the product marketed under the reference Actigum CS 11TM. The scleroglucans according to the invention include the products sold under the name AmigelTM by Alban Muller International. Also included are other scleroglucans such as the glyoxal-treated one described in French Patent Application No. FR2633940. Agar Agar is a naturally occurring polysaccharide thickening agent obtained from red algae belonging to the families Gelidaceae (Gelidium and Pterocladia) and Gracilariaceae. To prepare the agar, in some embodiments, the algae are boiled and the broth is filtered. The filtrate thus obtained is cooled, which causes it to gel. The resulting gel is then at least partially dehydrated by pressing or freeze / thaw cycles. The at least partially dehydrated gel is dried and then reduced to powder.

Agar is a complex mixture of polysaccharides with alternating (3-1,3 and α-1,4 type linkages.) The agar is predominantly a mixture of agarose and agaropectin. is a gelling compound, which is responsible for the gelation of the agar.

As a polysaccharide, the agar comprises mainly agarose. Agarose is a polysaccharide formed by a series of linked-linked D-galactopyranose units (3-1,3 alternating with 3,6-anhydro-L-galactopyranose linked by an α-1,4 bond. The agarose is a compound of the following formula (II): wherein n is an integer which defines the degree of polymerization of the agar The molecular weight of a monomeric unit (when n = 1) ) of formula (II) is 306.27 g / mol However, molecular weight is not a relevant technical characteristic for defining agar in general, and the agar used according to the invention in particular.

Agar is a product that is readily available commercially. According to the invention, it is possible to use, for example, the agars marketed by the company Bio-Rad (for example reference 166-0600EDU) or by Sigma-Aldrich (for example reference L7025) combination of scleroglucan and dinar La. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a combination of scleroglucan and agar in a weight ratio scleroglucan / agar ranging from 25/75 to 45/55. The invention also relates to the use of a combination of scleroglucan and agar in a scleroglucan / agar weight ratio ranging from 25/75 to 45/55 for adjusting the viscosity of a cosmetic composition. The various aspects of the invention are described below, in particular in relation to the characteristics of the cosmetic composition used.

In some embodiments, the combination of scleroglucan and agar is in the form of a solution in which the two substances are dissolved and mixed. In some embodiments, a solution of scieroglucan and an agar solution are separately prepared at respective known final concentrations, and appropriate volumes of each of the solutions are mixed to effect the combination of sceroglucan and agar in the reaction mixture. scleroglucan weight ratio / desired agar. According to some alternatives, the scleroglucan / agar liquid mixture is used at a final scleroglucan / agar concentration to provide a storage solution for the mixture. Said storage solution can then be used for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. By way of example, the final concentration of the scleroglucan / agar liquid mixture may be ten times greater than the final concentration of said mixture in the final cosmetic composition ready for use. In this case, the preparation of the cosmetic composition comprises a step of adding the scleroglucan / agar mixture by ten-fold dilution of the scleroglucan / agar mixture storage solution, with reference to the final cosmetic composition. According to other alternatives, for the preparation of the final cosmetic composition, the appropriate amounts of scleroglucan storage solutions and agar are added separately, both (i) in the desired scleroglucan / agar weight ratio and (ii) ) in the appropriate amount (scleroglucan + agar) to obtain the desired final concentration of the scleroglucan / agar mixture in the final cosmetic composition, then a mixing step is carried out in order to homogeneously distribute the scieroglucan and the agar as a whole of the composition that is prepared. According to still other alternatives, scleroglucan and agar are added directly in powder form during the process for preparing the cosmetic composition. According to a first alternative, the scleroglucan and the agar in the form of powder are premixed in the scleroglucan / desired agar weight ratio, and then the scleroglucan / agar mixture in powder form is added during the manufacturing process of the cosmetic composition. According to a second alternative, the scieroglucan powder and the agar powder are added separately, in appropriate amounts, during the manufacturing process of the cosmetic composition.

According to still other alternatives, one of scleroglucan and agar is added as a powder and the other of scleroglucan and the agar is added as a liquid solution. When used in liquid form, the scleroglucan, agar or scleroglucan / agar mixture is preferentially dissolved in an aqueous solution, which includes water. When the scleroglucan and / or agar are used in powder form, the intermediate composition into which they are introduced must contain a quantity of water or an aqueous liquid which is sufficient to allow their dissolution, thus their presence under dissolved form in the final cosmetic composition. The results of the examples show the synergistic effect of the combination of scleroglucan and agar, in the weight ratio scleroglucan / agar ranging from 25/75 to. 45/55, on the viscosity of the final product. In particular, the examples show the synergistic effect of the combination of scleroglucan and agar in the. The range of weight ratios prescribed by the invention, since the viscosity value obtained by said combination can reach more than 1000 times the viscosity value obtained with the agar alone used in the same amount by weight as said scleroglucan / agar combination. This substantial synergistic effect makes it possible to obtain a desired viscosity level for the final cosmetic composition with a reduced final concentration of the scleroglucan / agar combination, in a weight ratio prescribed by the invention. The examples show that a high level of viscosity of the final composition is obtained with a final concentration of the scleroglucan / agar combination of 1 percent by weight, based on the total weight of the final composition, i.e. in general of the final cosmetic composition. Thus, in certain embodiments of the invention, the final concentration of the combination of scleroglucan and agar in the final cosmetic composition is less than 20% by weight, based on the total weight of said cosmetic composition. In these embodiments, the final concentration of the scleroglucan / agar combination includes final concentrations of less than 19%, 18%, 17%, 16%, 15%, 14%, 13%, 12%, 11%, and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final cosmetic composition.

In a cosmetic composition according to the invention, the final concentration of the combination of scleroglucan and agar, in a weight ratio prescribed by the invention, is preferably greater than 0.001% by weight, relative to the final weight of said cosmetic composition. . In these embodiments, the final concentration of the combination of scleroglucan and agar includes the final concentrations greater than 0.005%, 0.01%, 0.05%, and 0.1%. The combination of scleroglucan and agar makes it possible to control the viscosity of the final cosmetic composition as well as its stability over time. The combination of scleroglucan and agar makes it possible to control the viscosity of the final cosmetic composition as well as its stability over time. Thus, the combination of scleroglucan and agar is used as a viscosity agent or thickening agent. In the context of the invention, the viscosity is measured using a Rhéomat 200 (Company LAMY), equipped with a mobile MS-R1, MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 The preferred combination of scleroglucan and agar is used to control the viscosity of cosmetic compositions consisting essentially or exclusively of natural substances, in particular natural substances of plant origin. By "natural compound" is meant a compound which is obtained directly from soil or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as for example grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration. By "naturally occurring" compounds is meant a natural compound having undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, causing modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising mainly natural constituents having or not undergone transformations, as indicated above. As a non-limiting example of chemical or industrial treatment schedule 30 causing changes that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by control bodies such as Ecocert (referential of organic cosmetics and ecological, January 2003) or defined in recognized textbooks in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine", 2005, vol. 120, 9:10. Additional cosmetic agents The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional thickening agent (s), distinct from scleroglucan and agar gums, preferably chosen from gelling agents. of natural origin and polysaccharides of plant and / or biotechnological origin. These polysaccharides may optionally be chemically modified to promote their hydrophilic valence, as is the case of cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkyl celluloses (eg hydroxyethylcellulose). Examples of polysaccharides of vegetable origin which can be used according to the invention include, in particular: a) different gums from scleroglycan and agar gums, such as carrageenan gums, guar gums and their nonionic derivatives ( hydroxypropyl), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum; and their mixtures; as examples, mention may be made of guar gum marketed under the name Jaguar HP105i by Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac gum (1% glucomannan) marketed by GfN b) modified or unmodified starches, such as those resulting, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables such as sweet peas, tubers such as potatoes or cassava, tapioca starches; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; examples are rice starch Remy DR I marketed by the company Remy; cornstarch 13 (1% from Roquette, potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide marketed under the name Structure Solanacet by the company National Starch; native tapioca sold under the name Tapioca pure ° by the company National Starch, c) dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index 114 from the company National Starch; d) celluloses and their derivatives, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; mention may be made in particular of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. Examples that may be mentioned include cetyl hydroxy ethyl celluloses under the names Polysurf 67CS and Natrosol Plus 330'14 by Aqualon e) pectins, f) chitosan and its derivatives, g) polyholosides comprising at least two monosaccharides, preferably of natural origin, and especially chosen from: aldoses such as pentoses (for example ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiosis); hexoses (for example glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose); ketoses such as fructose; deoxyoses, such as rose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose; ose derivatives such as uranic acids such as mannuronic, guluronic, galacturonic or glucuronic acids; or itols like mannitol or sorbitol. Mention may in particular be made of the polysaccharide comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, and for example a linear linkage of α-Fucose, α-D-galactose and galacturonic acid, for example Fucogel 1000 PPS (SOLABIA company). ) anionic polysaccharides, in particular of biotechnological origin, such as the anionic polysaccharide having as a repeating unit a tetrasaccharide composed of L-fucose, D-glucose and glucuronic acid, such as that bearing the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4 sold under the reference GLYCOFILM 1.5P by the company Solabia. i) clays such as laponites and mixtures thereof. The additional thickening agent (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of from 0.05 to 15% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise additional thickening agents.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1.5% by weight of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers, preferably less than 1%, better still less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.2% by weight. In particular, it may be totally free of thickening or synthetic gelling polymers.

Such synthetic polymers are, for example, acrylic polymers (Carbopol family), acrylic / alkyl acrylate copolymers or (co) polymers based on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (for example the polymers sold under the name Pemulen). , Sepigel or Simulgel, Aristoflex). The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more surfactant (s), preferably natural or of natural origin, and chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Reference can be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p.347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. The anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin, amino acids and amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, sulphosuccinates and alkyl sulphoacetates. phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, anionic alkyl polyglucoside derivatives, soaps (fatty acid salts), soybean oil derivatives, lactic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. The anionic derivatives of plant-derived proteins are hydrophobic group protein hydrolysates, said hydrophobic group being able to be naturally present in the protein or to be added by reacting the protein and / or the protein hydrolyzate with a hydrophobic compound. The proteins are of plant origin, and the hydrophobic group can be in particular a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. As anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin, usable in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of hydrolysates of wheat, soy, oat or silk proteins, comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and their salts. The alkyl chain may in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt may be a salt of sodium, potassium and / or ammonium. Mention may be made, for example, of sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of lauric acid-modified silk protein hydrolysates, such as the product marketed under the name KAWA Silk by the company Kawaken; the sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of wheat protein hydrolysates modified with lauric acid, such as the potassium salt marketed under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by the company Croda (CITA name: Potassium lauroyl wheat aminoacids) and the sodium salt sold under the name PROTEOL LW 30 by the company Seppic (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl wheat aminoacids); the sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of oat protein hydrolysates having an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and more particularly the sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of Oat protein hydrolysates modified with lauric acid, such as the sodium salt sold under the name PROTEOL OAT (CTFA name: Sodium lauroyl oat aminoacids), PROTEOL SAV 50S (INCI name: Sodium cocoyl aminoacid), PROTEOL APL (INCI name: sodium cocoyl apple amino acids) by Seppic, AM NTH S (INCI name: sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed amaranth proteins) and mixtures thereof. As alkyl ether sulfates, mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70/30) (2.2 OE) sold under the names Sipon AOS 225 or Texon N702 Pate4.1) by the company Cognis, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (C12-14 70/30) (3 OE) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370® by Cognis, the alkyl (C12-C14) ether (9 OE) ammonium sulphate marketed under the name RHODAPEX AB / 2041 by Rhodia Chimie. As sulphonates, mention may be made, for example, of alpha-olefin sulphonates, such as sodium alpha-olefin sulphonate (C14-16) sold under the name BIO-TERGE. AS-40 by the company Stepan, marketed under the names Witconate Aos Protégéd® and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 1201% by the company Witco or marketed under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 COD by Stepan, the secondary sodium olefin sulfonate marketed under the name HOSTAPUR 30 SAS 30i1 by the company Clariant; linear alkyl aryl sulphonates, such as sodium xylene sulphonate sold under the names MANROSOL SXS30e7, MANROSOL SXS40® and MANROSOL SXS93 4D by the company Manro. Mention may also be made of the mixture, such as, for example, lauryl sulphoacetate, for example, that sold as a mixture with sodium methyl-2-sulpholaurate and sulpholaurate-2-disodium under the reference SIEPAN MILD PCL by Stepan company. As isethionates, there may be mentioned acylisethionates such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name JORDAPON CI PI by the company Jordan. As taurates, mention may be made of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON CT PATEID by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, such as the sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF sold under the name NIKKOL CMT-30-T by the company Clariant or by the company Nikkol, (14 15 palmitoyl). sodium methyltaurate sold under the name NIKKOL PMT 47.4 by the company Nikkol As sulfosuccinates, there may be mentioned, for example, the oxyethylenated (30E) lauryl alcohol (C12 / C14 70/30) monosulfinate marketed under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL'B, REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4 by the company Witco, the di-sodium salt of a hemi-sulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, sold under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, oxyethylenated (20E) di-sodium oleamidosulphosuccinate sold under the name Standapol SH 135e by the company Cognis, the oxyethylenated lauric amide monosulfinate (50E) marketed under the name LEBON A-5000e4 by the company Sanyo, the di-sodium salt of oxyethylenated lauryl citrate monosulfosuccinate (10.0E) sold under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50t) by the company Witco, the di-sodium salt of monosulphosuccinate d lauric alcohol sold under the name REWOPOL SB F 12Pe4 by the company Witco, the ricinoleic mono-ethanolamide mono-sulfosuccinate sold under the name REWODERM S 30 I333c) by the company Witco. As phosphates and alkylphosphates, mention may be made. for example monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl mono-phosphate marketed under the name MAP 20e4 by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric acid, a mixture of mono- and di-ester (diester) majority) marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-31 + 14. by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and octylphosphoric acid di-ester, marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-20C + by Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated 2-butyloctanol phophoric acid monoester and diester (7 moles d'OE), sold under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTERII + by the company Condea, the potassium salt or triole olamine mono-alkyl (C12-C13) phosphate marketed ATONE MAP 230K-40 and ARLATONE MAP 230T No. 411 to Uniqema, the potassium lauryl phosphate sold under the name "ALC - MAP XC-99 / 094I by the company Rhodia Chimie." The anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides can These include citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides, for example the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) tartaric ester, marketed under nomination EUC-OL AGE-and by the company Cesalpinia, the sodium salt of sulphosuccinic ester of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4), sold under the name Essai 512 M13e4 by the company Seppic, the sodium salt of citric ester cocoyl polyglucoside (1,4) sold under the name EUC OL AGE-EC by the company Cesalpinia.

In particular, the anionic surfactants may be chosen from soaps (fatty acid salts), soy oil derivatives, lactic acid derivatives, amino acids, acylamino acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof. The soaps are obtained from a fatty acid which is partially or totally saponified (neutralized) with a basic agent. These are alkali or alkaline-earth metal soaps or organic bases. As fatty acids, it is possible to use saturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. This fatty acid may in particular be chosen from palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid and lamic acid, and mixtures thereof.

As basic agents, it is possible to use, for example, alkali metal hydroxides (sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide), alkaline earth metal hydroxides (for example magnesium hydroxide), hydroxide 2 9 83 72 9 16 ammonium, or organic bases such as triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine. The soaps may be in particular alkali salts of fatty acid, the basic agent being an alkali metal hydroxide, and preferably potassium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide (KOH). The amount of basic agent must be sufficient for the fatty acid to be at least partially neutralized. Sodium laurate or potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, potassium stearate, potassium cocoate or even stearic acid salts of KOH formed in situ may be mentioned in particular. The derivatives of soybean oil and their salts are in particular the fatty acids and salts of fatty acids derived from soybean oil (whose INCI name is "glycine soybean oil" or "soybean oil") and in particular alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, and fatty acids derived from soya, such as potassium soyate, for example that marketed by Noveon. As acylamino acids, mention may be made, for example, of sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCS-12, sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Ainilite GCK-12, and cocoyl glutamate of disodium marketed by Ajinomoto 20 company under the name Amisoft ECS-22SB, sodium lauroyl glutamate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LS11, lauroyl sodium sarcosinate marketed by Seppic under the name ORAMIX L 30, sodium and disodium stearoyl glutamate sold by Ajinomoto under the trade names Amisoft HS21 P and HS11 Pf and cocoyl sarcosinate sodium marketed by ZSCHIMMER & SCHW 'under the name Protelan LS 9011 / C. Mention may also be made of the sodium salt of lauroyl amino acids of oats such as Proteol OAT marketed by the company Seppic or the compound bearing the INCI name sodium cocoyl aminoacids such as the Seppic SA 505 Proteol SAV. The amino acid derivatives may be chosen, for example, from sarcosinates and especially acylsarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name SARKOSYL NL 9741 by the company Ciba or sold under the name ORAMIX L 300 by the company Seppic, myristoyl sarcosinate. sodium salt, sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN 111 by the company Nikkol; alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium Nikol alkanate LN 300 by Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone Ale.14, by Kawaken, and Nlauroyl N-methylalanine triethanolamine, sold under the name ALANONE ALTA III by the company Kawaken; N-acylglutamates such as triethanolamine mono-cocoylglutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-12 O by Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroylglutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-120 by the company Ajinomoto, triethanolamine cocoylglutamate marketed under the name Amisoft CT-120 by the company Ajinomoto; aspartates as the mixture of N-lauroylasp. triethanolamine and triethanolamine N-myristoylaspartate, sold under the name ASPARACK®) by the company Mitsubishi; citrates. The lactic acid derivatives or their salts may be chosen from acyl lactylic acid derivatives, their salts (lactylates) such as stearoyl lactylate such as for example that marketed by the company Oleon NV under the name'tamuls 2980; sodium stearoyl lactylate as proposed for example by the company Oleon NV under the name Radiamuls 2990, by Karlshamns AB under the name Akoline SL, by the company Uniquema under the name Priazul 2134 or by Dr. Straetmans under the name Dermofeel SL ; sodium isostearoyl lactylate such as that marketed by Uniquema under the name Priazul 2133; sodium behenoyl lactylate, for example, sold by Rita Corporation under the name Pationic SBL; sodium cocoyl lactylate such as that sold by the company Rita under the name Pationic SCL, sodium oleoyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate (PATIONIC 138C Caravan), sodium caproyl lactylate (CAPMUL S8L-G Abitec). Mention may also be made of cocoamphoacetate sodium, glycerin, lauryl glucoside, sodium cocoylglutamate, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate sold by Cognis under the reference Plantapon SF. The amphoteric surfactants (this term including amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants) can be chosen, for example, from betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, glycine derivatives, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates and mixtures thereof. As betaines, mention may in particular be made of alkyl betaines, for example cocobetaine, such as the product sold under the name Dehyton AB-300 by the company Cognis, lauryl betaine, and the product sold under the name GENAGEN KB® by the company Clariant, and lauryl betaine oxyethylenated ( 10 0E), such as the product sold under the name LAURYLETHER (10 OE) BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Rica, stearyl betaine oxyethylenated (10 OE) as the product sold under the name SI EARYLETHER (10 OE) BETAINE I. by the company Shin Nihon Rica. Among the N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, mention may be made, for example, of cocamidopropyl betaine marketed under the name LEBON 2000 HG 'by the company Sanyo, under the name EMPIGEN B134 "by Albright & Wilson, under the trade names Tego Betain F 50 and CK D by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, or those marketed in admixture with glyceryl lauratec as commercial references Tego Betain IIS, or Antil HS 60 of EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, lauramidopropyl betaine marketed under the name REWOTERIC AMB12P by the company Witco. Sultaines which may be mentioned are the cocoylamidopropylhydroxy sulfobetaine sold under the name CROSULTAINE C-500 by the company Croda.Among alkyl polyaminocarboxylates (APAC), mention may be made of sodium cocoylpolyamino carboxylate, sold under the name 7 CX / C, and AMPHOLAK 7 CX by Akzo Nobel, stearyl-A II HOL tp polyamidocarboxylate sodium salt sold under the name HOLAK 7 25 TX / C by Akzo Nobel, sodium carboxymethylolpropylamine, sold under the name HOLAK X07 / C0 by the company Akzo Nobel. As alkylamphoacetates, mention may be made, for example, of N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-di-sodium (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate), for instance the product sold under the name 30 MI OL C2M CONCENTRA NPO by the company Rhodia Chimie , and N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-sodium (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate).

The nonionic surfactants may be chosen for example from alkyl polyglucosides (APG), maltose esters, sucrose esters, hydrophobic gums, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, glyceryl esters of fatty acids, glycerol esters oxyalkylenated esters, oxyalkylenated sugar esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, fatty acid and sorbitan esters, glucamine derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-n-methylglucamine, and their mixtures. As alkylpolyglucosides, use is preferably made of those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 units of saccharide. . Mention may be made, for example, of decylglycoside (Alkyl-C9 / Ci-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP by the company Cognis, and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by the company Seppic; caprylyllcapryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by the company Seppic or PLANTACARE 810 P by the company Cognis; laurylglucoside as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N 4.1. and PLANTACARE 1200 t) by the company Cognis; and the coco-glucoside product i marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP 14 by Cognis, cetostearyl glucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by the company Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by the company Seppic; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name Montanov 82 by the company Seppic, the C12 to C20 alkyl glucosides such as those sold in admixture with fatty alcohols; C14 to C22 under the reference MONTANOV L by the company Seppic.

The oxyalkylenated glycerol esters are in particular the polyoxyethylenated derivatives of glyceryl and fatty acid esters and their hydrogenated derivatives. These oxyalkylenated glycerol esters may be chosen, for example, from glyceryl esters of hydrogenated and oxyethylenated fatty acids, such as PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate sold under the name Rewoderm LI-S 80 by the company Goldschmidt. ; oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoates such as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate sold under the name ieosoft GC by the company Goldschmidt, and PEU-glyceryl cocoate sold under the name Rewoderm LI-63 by the company Goldschmidt; and their mixtures. The oxyalkylenated sugar esters are in particular the polyethylene glycol ethers of the fatty acid and sugar esters. These oxyalkylenated sugar esters may be chosen, for example, from oxyethylenated glucose esters such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate sold under the name Glucamate DOE 120 by the company Erchol. The fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol are preferably esters of C16-C22 fatty acids containing from 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the esters may in particular be chosen from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl and cetyl units and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl, and preferably a stearyl chain. The number of ethylene oxide units can range from 8 to 100, preferably from 10 to 80, and better still from 10 to 50. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, this number can range from 20 to By way of example of fatty acid ester and polyethylene glycol, mention may be made of stearic acid esters comprising 20, 30, 40, 50, 100 ethylene oxide units, respectively, such as the products sold under the name Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20 OE, CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 40 OE, CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj, respectively. 25 53, Myrj 59 P by the company CRODA. The esters of C16-C22 fatty acids and of sorbitan are in particular esters of C16-C22 acids and of sorbitan and are formed by esterification of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain. having respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms with sorbitol. These esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, sorbitan oleates, and mixtures thereof. Sorbitan stearates and palmitates, and preferably sorbitan stearates, are preferably used.

By way of example of sorbitan ester which may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by Croda under the name Span 60, sorbitan tristearate sold by the company. Croda company under the name Span 65 V, the sorbitan monopalrnitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by Croda under the name Span 40, the sorbitan monoleate sold by Croda under the name Span 80 V, the trioleate of sorbitan sold by Uniquema under the name Span 85 V. Preferably, the sorbitan ester used is sorbitan tristearate. The glyceryl and fatty acid esters may be obtained in particular from an acid having a saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. As glycerol ester and fatty acid, there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the glyceryl ester of fatty acid used is chosen from glyceryl stearates.

Mention may also be made of the mixture of glyceryl stearate and of polyethylene glycol 100 0E monostearate, and in particular that comprising a 50/50 mixture, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Croda. As sucrose esters, mention may be made of sucrose esters of fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, said esters possibly comprising from 2 to 5 fatty chains, such as, for example, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose laurate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose myristate and mixtures thereof. Mention may in particular be made of sucrose cocoate such as TEGOSOFT PSE from GOLDSCHMIDT, sucrose myristate such as Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods Corp.'s Surfhope SE COSME C-1416, laurate sucrose such as Surfhope SE COSME C1216, sucrose laurate as Surfhope SE COSME C-1215L, the mixture of sucrose esters and palmitic and / or stearic acids (INCI name sucrose palmitate) as sold under the reference Surfhope SE COSME C-1616. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sucrose: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company CRODESTA, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% monoester; % di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra. -ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name RYOTO SUGAR ESTERS, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name TEGOSOFT PSE.

Hydrophobic or hydrophobic modified gum is understood to mean a gum modified with hydrophobic chains, in particular modified by grafting hydrophobic chains onto the hydrophilic skeleton of the gum. There may be mentioned, for example, gum arabic proposed under the name EMULSIFYING 500 A or 500 L by the company Alland & Robert, the arabinogalactan gum proposed under the name Laracare A200 by the company Lonza, scleroglucan gum as proposed by company Alban Muller under the reference Amigel Granule, the cellulose proposed by the company under the reference Cellulose Water Dispersion (4/96) by the company DAIICHI KOGYO SEIYAKU, the pectin and dextrose mixture marketed by Cargill under the reference Unipectine OF 600C, natural branched polysaccharides such as Soliance's Biolygel, lauryl inulin carbamate (Inutec SP1 from the company Orafti). Particularly suitable nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglucosides (APG), sucrose esters, hydrophobed gums and mixtures thereof. The cationic surfactants that can be used according to the present invention are in particular the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts; imidazoline derivatives; cationic amine oxides, and / or a mixture thereof. The quaternary ammonium salts are in particular: (a) those which have the following general strength (IV): R 1, R 3 R (R 4 X- (IV) in which the radicals R 1 to R 4, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl The aliphatic radicals may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C 2 -C 6) alkylamide, alkyl (C 12 -C 22) arnido (C 2 -C 6) alkyl, (C 12 -C 22) alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, having about 1 to about 30 carbon atoms; X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 2 -C 6) alkyl sulfates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates, and preferably R 1 and R 2 C110 C4, or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl (b) the salts of quaternary ammonium of imidazolinium, such as for example that of formula (V) below: CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R 8) -CO-R 5 N N R 7 (V) in which R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 15 carbon atoms, for example derived from coconut fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C8 alkyl radical; C4, Rg represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulphonates. Preferably, R 5 and R 6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals having from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 7 denotes methyl and R 8 denotes hydrogen. (c) the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VI): ## STR1 ## wherein aliphatic having about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R10, R11, R12, R13 and R14, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. (d) quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, for example those of formula (VII) below: (CrHO) z R18 o II R 17 C 0 CAti) 5, N- (Cp H 2 O) x -R 16 R 15 in which: R15 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals; - R16 is chosen from: 0 H - the radical R19 C - the linear or saturated or saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon radicals R20, - the hydrogen atom, - R18 is chosen from: o 1 I - C - the radical R 2 - the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon radicals R 22, R 17, R 19 and R 21, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrocarbon radicals; C7-C21, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; n, p and r, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; X and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; - X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; With the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R 16 is R 20 and that when z is 0 then R 18 is R. The R 15 alkyl radicals can be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R16 is a hydrocarbon radical R20, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R 18 is a hydrocarbon radical R 22, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from saturated or linear C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, n, p and r, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.

The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate. More particularly, the ammonium salts of formula (VII) in which: R15 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, -x and y are equal to 1; z is 0 or 1; n, p and r are 2; - R16 is chosen from: H - the radical R19 C - methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon radicals - the hydrogen atom; - R18 is selected from: 0 H - the radical I12, -C - - the hydrogen atom; R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon radicals and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear. Of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. , in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or else palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name "EC" HYL 70 " by the company VAN DYK. There may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of formula (V) such as the salts (in particular chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethyl ammonium, of diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, of triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium and their mixtures. The acyl radicals preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl radical, the latter may be identical or different. These products are obtained for example by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin or by transesterification of. their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (methyl or preferably ethyl), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART by the company Cognis, STEPANQUAT by the company Stepan, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 and REWOQUAT W75 by the company DEGUS S A. It is also possible to use the salts of ammonium containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. Quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VI) that are suitable for use in the invention include, in particular, propane dianunonium dichloride. The surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention may in particular be nonionic surfactants, and in particular surfactants of natural origin, in which compounds which may be present in nature and which are reproduced by synthesis are included. chemical. They may be chosen in particular from soaps (fatty acid salts), soy oil derivatives, lactic acid derivatives, sugar and fatty acid esters, glycerol or polyglycerol esters. and fatty acid comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, amino acids, acylamino acids, their salts, alkyl polyglucosides (APG), hydrophobed gums and their mixtures. Mention may also be made of anionic surfactants chosen from acylamino acid salts such as glutamates, glycinates, lactic acid derivatives or their salts, such as lactylates, citrates and their mixtures. In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from glycerol or polyglycerol and fatty acid esters comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms. carbon atoms, such as lauric acid.

The surfactant (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight and better from 0.5 to 5% by weight. The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one foaming agent chosen from saponins such as saponins extracted from soap trees (Sapindus mukurossi, Sapindus trifoliatus), licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra), horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum). , Bacoppa (Baccopa monneria), Sarsaparilla (Smilax medica, Smilax aspera, Smilax ornata), Panama wood (Quillaja saponaria), Saponaria (Saponaria officinalis), Ginseng (Panax ginseng), Yucca (Yucca schidigera), Maltese cross (Tribulus terrestris), Juazirine (Zizyphus joazeiro), Jiaogulan (Gynostemma pentaphyllum), Asparagus racemosus, Alfalfa (Medicago sauva), and mixtures thereof. weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2 to 15%, and more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one, that is to say a liquid fatty substance at am temperature bient (20-25 ° C). The oil may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils of plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. These oils are physiologically acceptable. As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene 25; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those marketed by Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular fatty acids: The fatty esters may be chosen for example from those obtained from a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohol having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms and a linear or branched chain fatty acid having 3 to 24 carbon atoms. As fatty esters, mention may be made, for example, of 2-ethylhexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), ethyl laurate, butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, laurate and laurate. isohexyl, isopropyl laurate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, butyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyl dodecyl myristate, ethyl monococoate 2-hexyl (or octyl monococoate), methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, 2-ethyl hexyl stearate (or octyl stearate), isopropyl isostearate, isocetyl stearate, isostearate isotearyl, 2-ethylhexyl pelargonate (or octyl pelargonate), 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (or octyl hydroxystearate), decyl oleate, di-isopropyl adipate, 2-di-ethyl hexyl adipate (or di-octyl adipate), diisocetyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate (or octyl succinate), diisopropyl sebacate, ethyl malate 2-hexyl (or octyl malate), pentaerythritol caprate / caprylate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate (octyl hexanoate), octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate isostearyl isopentanoate, isotonyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethyl hexyl ethyl hexanoate (or octyl 2-ethyl hexanoate), 2-ethyl hexyl octanoate (or octanoate), octyl), cetyl ethyl-2 hexanoate, tetraisostearate pentaerythritol, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (Eldew SL 205 from Unipex), dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC from Cognis), benzoates of C12-C15 fatty alcohols (Finsolv TN from FINETEX). As fatty ethers, mention may be made of Dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis). linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil; volatile linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprising from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 14 carbon atoms. They may have a flash point in the range of 30 to 120 ° C, and more preferably 40 to 100 ° C and are preferably liquid at room temperature (about 25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). ). By way of example of a volatile linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. By way of example of a linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C 9), n-decane (C 10), n-undecane (C 1), n-dodecane (C 12) , n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13), in example 1 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and the mixture n-dodecane (C12) and ntetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, respectively dodecane and linear tetradecane and mixtures thereof. It is possible to use the volatile linear alkane alone or as a mixture of at least two different volatile alkanes and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1, and in particular a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes comprising 10 to 15 carbon atoms and different from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of linear volatile C1 1 / C 13 alkanes or a mixture of C12 / C14 volatile linear alkanes, in particular a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture (such a mixture may be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059), the partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based fluorinated oils, such as those described in US Pat. JP-A-2-295912; - and their mixtures.

The oils chosen from vegetable oils of vegetable origin are preferably used. The oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 70% by weight. The cosmetic compositions of the invention may, in addition, contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, perfume peptizers, dyestuffs, fillers, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents. The nature of the adjuvants and their amounts must be such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. The amounts of these adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field and, for example, from 0.001 to 10% of the total weight of the composition. As active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of soothing agents such as allantoin and bisabolol; floral waters such as linden water or cornflower water; glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts; antibacterials such as octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils ; vitamins such as for example retinol (vitamin A), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E), niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3), panthenol (vitamin B5) and their derivatives such as by examples are the esters of these vitamins (palmitate, acetate, propionate), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated vitamin C or glucopyranosyl ascorbic acid (Ascorbyl glucoside); co-enzymes such as coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone and coenzyme R or biotin; protein hydrolysates; plant extracts and in particular plankton extracts; and their mixtures. As fillers, mention may be made of mineral fillers such as talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) sold under the name LUZENAC M0041 by the company LUZENAC, kaolin or aluminum silicate such as for example that marketed under the name denomination KAOLIN SUPREME by the company IMERYS, or organic fillers such as starch, for example the product marketed under the name Amidon de Mais Bo by Roquette, the nylon microspheres sold under the name ORGASOL 2002 UD NAT. COSO by ATOCHEM, cellulose beads such as DAITO KASEI KYOGO's Cellulobeads D-10, lauroyl lysine, micronized powders of plants (such as lychee, cranberry, coconut) such as those sold under the name Microzest by the company Lessonia, the cork powder, the microspheres based on vinylidene chloride / Acry copolymer Ionitrile / methacrylonitrile enclosing isobutane, expanded as those sold under the name EXPANCEL 551 DE.lè by Expancel. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additives and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

In some embodiments, said cosmetic composition is selected from a skin care composition and a hair care composition. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of scleroglucan and agar in a weight ratio scleroglucan / agar ranging from 25/75 to 45/55, in combination with one or more cosmetic agents. In certain embodiments of the cosmetic composition defined above, the scleroglucan / agar weight ratio ranges from 30/70 to 40/60. In some embodiments, the final concentration of the scleroglucan / agar combination is greater than 0.001%, based on the total weight of said cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the final concentration of the scleroglucan / agar combination is less than 20% by weight, based on the total weight of said cosmetic composition. In certain embodiments of the cosmetic composition defined above, it is selected from a composition for skin care and a composition for care, hair. The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising the application on said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined in the present description. A composition of the invention may be in any conceivable galenic form. In particular, a composition according to the invention may have the form of an aqueous, hydro-alcoholic solution; a dispersion; an emulsion of water-oil, oil-in-water or multiple; a suspension; microcapsules or microparticles; vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type; aerosol composition composition also comprising a propellant under pressure. Preferably, the composition according to the invention may be an oil-in-water emulsion. A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a composition for hair care, in particular a shampoo, a setting lotion, a treatment lotion, a cream or a styling gel, a dyeing composition, in particular a dyeing composition. oxidation, restructuring lotions for the hair, a permanent composition (in particular a composition for the first time of a perm), a lotion or anti-haze gel, a pest control shampoo. It may also be in the form of a composition for cleaning, protecting, treating or caring for the face, the hands, the feet, the large anatomical folds or the body (for example, day creams). , night cream, make-up remover, sunscreen composition, body protection or care milk, after-sun milks, lotion, gel or mousse for skin care, such as cleaning lotion, artificial tanning composition); a makeup composition of the body or of the face such as a background, complexion; a bath composition; a deodorant composition comprising, for example, a bactericidal agent; aftershave composition; an epilatory composition; a composition against insect bites; an anti-pain composition; a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition for treating certain skin diseases such as eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, lichens, severe pruritus.

When a composition according to the invention is intended for use as a peel, it may also be in any of the galenical forms mentioned above, provided that it is easily removed by rinsing, and in particular in the form of an aqueous gel. of aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution. A composition according to the invention can be applied by any means 30 allowing a uniform distribution and especially using a cotton, a rod, a brush, a gauze, a spatula or buffer, or by spraying, and can be removed by rinsing with water or a mild detergent.

A composition according to the invention may be in a fluid form of liquid vaporizable or not, in the form of paste, direct or inverse emulsion, or gel or impregnated support. In particular, a composition according to the invention can be in a solid form, in particular compact, pulverulent or cast or in a stick form. A composition according to the invention may also be in the form of a care product, a solar product or after sun, a daily photoprotective care product, a product for the body, of a foundation to be applied to the face or neck, a concealer, a concealer, a tinted cream or a make-up base for makeup face or makeup composition for the body. A composition according to the invention may be used for the purpose of improving the general condition of an epidermis, in particular the skin, and in particular for maintaining or restoring its physiological functions and / or its aesthetic appearance. Thus, a composition according to the invention can be advantageously used in order to fight against aging of the epidermis, maintain and / or stimulate hydration and / or fight against drying of the skin, improve the tone of the skin maintain or restore the suppleness and elasticity of the skin, improve the mineralization of the epidermis, improve the vitality of the epidermis, facilitate inter-cellular exchanges, and fight against chapped and cracked appearance of the skin; skin. A composition according to the invention may be intended for a cosmetic and / or dermatological application. Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly from the following examples, given for illustrative and nonlimiting purposes. In what follows or what precedes, the proportions are given in percentage by weight, unless otherwise indicated. Figure 1 illustrates the viscosity curve of a composition comprising 1% by weight of a scleroglucan / agar combination in the scleroglucan / agar weight ratio range of 0/100 to 100/0. In abscissa weight ratio scleroglucan / agar. On the ordinate: viscosity values, expressed in Pa.s.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly from the examples which follow, given by way of illustration and not limitation. In what follows or what precedes, the proportions are given in percentage by weight, unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1 Effect of mannan combination of scleroglucan and agar on viscosity. A. Materials and cs. As scleroglucan, ALBAN MULLER AMIGUM was used. AGAR SETALG THERMAL TREATMENT A set of compositions comprising a final concentration of the scleroglucan / agar combination of 1% by weight was prepared. relative to the total weight of the composition. Each composition in the series included a specific scleroglucan / agar weight ratio. A series of compositions was made comprising the following scleroglucan: agar weight ratios: 100/0, 67/33, 50/50, 33/67 and 0/100. The two extreme values relate to compositions comprising, for the scleroglucan / agar combination, exclusively scleroglucan (100/0) or exclusively agar (0/100).

The test compositions shown in Table 1 below were made. Table 1 Cosmetic Type Final Content Active Compound Citric Acid pH Adjuster at 5.5 Ethylparaben and Propylparaben Preservative 0.5 ** Solvent 98.5 ** Water Sodium Hydroxide pH Adjuster pH 5.5 Active Stabilizer Scleroglucan / Agar Combination * 1.0 ** Scleroglucan / agar combination in each of the scleroglucan / agar weight ratios: 100/0, 67/33, 50/50, 33/67 and 0/100 ** percent by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The viscosity and the behavior of these solutions was studied using a rheometer ... The rheometer used is the HAAKE Mars (Modulai Advanced Rheometer System). It is provided with a rotor on which are fixed the geometries, of various sizes which come into contact with the sample, of an optical sensor measuring the speed of rotation, of a plate whose temperature is controlled by the fitter effect. , connected to an oil bath for heat exchange, and a control PC of the device. It can operate either in imposed constraint, or in imposed speed thanks to a control loop. The choice of geometry depends directly on the type of product to be tested. The set of products studied being of average consistency, one will choose the cone / plane geometry (to the detriment of a plane / plane geometry, for products containing solid particles). The shear rate is then the same at every point of the sample. For fluid products, a titanium-sanded cone-plane geometry of 60mm diameter with an angle of 1 ° will be used. For consistent products, a 35 mm diameter titanium-sanded cone-plane geometry with an angle of 2 ° may be preferred. The geometries are provided with a bell to avoid projection and evaporation. Flow measurement protocol In flow, the measurements are carried out under constraint imposed on equilibrium. The product is subjected to increasing constraints and the variation of the corresponding velocity gradient is measured. The flow curve, which represents the evolution of the viscosity as a function of the shear gradient, is deduced. The measurements made make it possible to access very small shears and to estimate the flow threshold, that is to say the stress to be applied for the product to start flowing.

The sample is heated at 25 ° C. for 120 seconds by Peltier effect. Stress flow is carried out in increments of 0.1 up to 500Pa maximum, and about twenty logarithmically distributed measurement points are recorded. These measurements are therefore carried out over a wide range of deformation and describe the behavior and texture of the polymers at rest (low shear rate) and during setting and spreading (high shear rates around 500 to 1000 s). 1). B. Results The results are shown in Figure 1 as well as in Table 2 below. Table 2 The results of Example 1 show that, for a defined range of scleroglucan / agar weight ratio, there is a drastic increase in the viscosity of the composition. These results show that for said defined range of scleroglucan / agar weight ratio, the low end concentration scleroglucan / agar combination can be used to control the viscosity of a composition of interest. Examples of cosmetic compositions 100/0 1762 67/33 7028 50/50 7061 33/67 101800 0/100 79890 Weight ratio scleroglucan / agar Viscosity (in Pa.s at 0.001 s-1) Exc-iple of a cream for skin Ingredients% by weight CITRIC ACID - pH adjuster ARGININE pH adjuster SALICYLIC ACID 0,2 "BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER" 3 CERA ALBA 1 CEARTARYL ALCOHOL 0,5 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 15 AGAR 0,67 SCLEROTIUM GUM 0,33 GLYCERIN 5 SUCROSE STEARATE and SUCROSE DISTEARATE 2.5 GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 0.5 AQUA cisp 100 Example of a hair shampoo Ingredient% by weight CITRIC ACID pH adjuster ARGININE pH adjuster SALICYLIC ACID 0.2 AGAR 0.67 SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.33 GLYCERINE 5 DISODIUM COCOAMPHODIACETATE.

5 GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 0.5 AMMONIUM LAURYL SULFATE 30 AQUA Qsp 100

Claims (12)

REVENDICATIONS1. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a combination of scleroglucan and agar in a scleroglucan / agar weight ratio ranging from 25/75 to 45/55. 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the scleroglucan / agar weight ratio varies from 30/70 to 40/60. 3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims IL and 2, characterized in that the final concentration of the scleroglucan / agar combination is greater than 0.001%, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition. 4. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the final concentration of the scleroglucan / agar combination is less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition. 15 5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is selected from a composition for skin care and a composition for hair care. 6. Use of a combination of scleroglucan and agar in a scleroglucan / agar weight ratio of 25/75 to 45/55 to adjust the viscosity of a cosmetic composition. 7. Use according to claim 6, characterized in that the scleroglucan / agar weight ratio varies from 30/70 to 40/60. 8. Use according to one of claims 6 and 7, characterized in that the final concentration of the scleroglucan / agar combination in said cosmetic composition is greater than 0.001%, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition. 9. Use according to one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that the final concentration of the scleroglucan / agar combination in said cosmetic composition is less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition. 10. Use according to one of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that said cosmetic composition is free of surfactant 2 983 72 9 40 11. Use according to one of claims 6 to 10, characterized in that said cosmetic composition is selected from a composition for skin care and a composition for hair care. 12. A process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising applying to said keratin materials a cosmetic composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 5.