FR2945446A1 - Increasing the viscosity or modifying the rheological behavior of a composition, comprises mixing the composition with an extract of Cyathea (fern genus) - Google Patents

Abstract

Increasing the viscosity or modifying the rheological behavior of a composition, comprises mixing the composition with an extract of Cyathea(fern genus). Independent claims are included for: (1) cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Cyathea(fern genus) (0.3-50 wt.%), and another gelling agent (0.05-20 wt.%), where the extract contains polysaccharides (at least 20 wt.%); and (2) preparing a cosmetic composition having a viscosity of greater than 100 mPa.s, comprising adding an extract of Cyathea(fern genus) in a concentration of at least 0.3 wt.%, to an initial composition.

Description

METHODS AND COMPOSITIONS FOR INCREASING THE VISCOSITY OF A PRODUCT

The present invention relates to novel methods for increasing the viscosity and / or modifying the rheological properties of a product. More particularly, the present invention relates to a method for gelling or thickening a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition. The present invention also relates to novel compositions comprising a fern extract of the genus Cyathea, their preparation and their uses, in particular in the cosmetic and dermatological field.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Certain therapeutic properties of tree ferns of the family Cyatheaceus, growing exclusively in New Zealand, have been known for a long time. Maori, for example, used these ferns to accelerate the healing of cuts. Indeed, ferns of the family Cyatheaceae after application to the skin, seem to act as a powerful agent of tissue regeneration.

Recently, in 2002, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics developed a MamakuTM Vital Essence product, the active part of which is a Cyathea endemic fern extract called Mamaku from New Zealand. This extract showed interesting anti-aging properties. It has been demonstrated that this extract makes it possible in particular to intensify the cytoskeleton, to stimulate cell proliferation, to increase the synthesis of fibroblasts, proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans.

In 2005, a new raw material containing fern extract of the genus Cyathea was launched by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics under the name LiftessenceTM. This product was developed for the lifting properties of the fern extract used (reduction of the number of wrinkles, improvement of the tone and the firmness of the skin in 1 hour).

The patent application FR 2863163 mentions a composition containing an aqueous extract of fern leaves of the genus Cyathea and a nacre extract. This document describes the use of this composition by topical application in order to moisturize the skin and improve its flexibility or density and / or prevent drying out. The inventors have now found that the fern extract of the genus Cyathea has gelling and thickening properties that are very interesting for applications in the cosmetic and dermatological field.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides novel methods and compositions for gelating a composition, preferably a cosmetic or dermatological composition, or modifying its rheological behavior. In particular, the invention relates to a process for increasing the viscosity or modifying the rheological behavior of a composition, characterized in that it comprises a step of mixing said composition with a fern extract of the genus Cyathea. According to a preferred embodiment, the extract comprises at least 20% of polysaccharides, and more preferably at least 75% of polysaccharides, relative to the total weight of the extract. According to another preferred embodiment, said extract is incorporated into the composition in a concentration of at least 0.3% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 50%. Preferably, the extract is used at a pH between pH 3 and pH 10. The invention also provides novel compositions comprising a fern extract of the genus Cyathea. More specifically, a composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, from 0.3 to 50% by weight of a fern extract of the genus Cyathea, and from 0 to 20% by weight of a Another gelling agent, said extract containing at least 20% by weight of polysaccharides. The invention also relates to the process for the preparation of said compositions and their uses in the cosmetic or dermatological field.

FIGURE LEGENDS Figure 1: Impact of Cyathea fern extract on the viscosity of a composition; the measurements were made with RHEO ELV8 Viscometer (mobile 4, speed 60 rpm, 30s)

Figure 2: Impact of Cyathea fern extract on the rheological behavior of a composition; the measurements were made with ARES Rheometer (mobile quilt 32 mm).

- Where Mamaku Aristoflex Quilt 32mm (Seq Test 1) Mamaku Aristoflex Quilt 32mm (Seq Test 3) Aristoflex 32mm (Seq Test 1) Aristoflex 32mm (Seq Test 3) Mamaku Quilt 32mm (Seq Test 1) Mamaku Quilt 32mm (Seq Test 3)

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention aims to provide novel and improved compositions and methods for gelating or thickening a cosmetic or dermatological composition. In particular, the subject of the invention is a process for increasing the viscosity or modifying the rheological behavior of a composition, characterized in that it comprises a step of mixing said composition with a fern extract of the genus Cyathea. The fern extract can be prepared from different parts of the plant, such as leaves, stems, roots, seeds, etc. In a preferred embodiment, the extract is an extract from fern leaves of the genus Cyathea.

According to variants, said fern extract is an extract of C. arborea, C. australis, C. brevipinna, C. Brownil, C. capensis, C. caracasana, C. celebica, C. celensoi, C. cooperi, C. cumingii, C. cunninghamii, C. dealbata, C. dregei, C. fulva, C. gleichenoide, C. howeana, C. incisocerrat, C. kermadacensis, C. leichhardtiana, C. lunulata, C. macarthuri, C. macgregorii, C. medullaris, C. rebeccae, C. robertsiana, C. robusta, C. smithii, C. spinulosa, C. tomentosissima, C. veillardii or C. woolsiana.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, said fern extract is obtained by aqueous extraction and drying.

The extract according to the invention can be prepared by methods known per se in the state of the art. Thus, it is typically prepared by crushing Cyathea leaves and macerating them in water. The next purification step may consist of centrifugation, ultrafiltration, alcohol precipitation, activated carbon bleaching, clarification or filtration. Then, the drying step, making it possible to recover the extract in the desired form, can be carried out by lyophilization, atomization or drying under vacuum. The steps mentioned above may optionally be followed by a debacterization step according to the methods known to those skilled in the art.

According to one variant, said fern extract is advantageously in solid form, in particular in the form of a powder. According to another variant, the fern extract is in the form of a hygroscopic powder of beige to brown color. In addition, the extracts of the invention may be in dry solid form (eg granules, paste, gel, blocks of various sizes).

In another embodiment, it is advantageous to use a fern extract comprising at least 20% by weight of polysaccharides, preferably at least 35% by weight of polysaccharides, more preferably at least 50% of polysaccharides, and even more preferably, at least 60% of polysaccharides, even more preferably at least 70% of polysaccharides, and most preferably at least 75% of polysaccharides, relative to the total weight of the extract. These polysaccharides consist in particular of glucomannans and arabinogalactans.

The inventors have observed that these polysaccharides may have a particular behavior in water. Indeed, put in solution, the polysaccharides of the fern extract of the genus Cyathea, can form a three-dimensional network and thus modify the viscosity of the initial composition, in two possible ways: by increasing the viscosity or by modifying the rheological behavior of the composition. Its high molecular weight polysaccharide content ensures, among other things, the formation of a surface film.

Another object of the invention resides in a process characterized in that the step of mixing said composition with the fern extract of the genus Cyathea takes place in a pH range between pH 3 and pH 10.

Another object of the invention resides in a process characterized in that the fern extract of the genus Cyathea is incorporated in the composition in a concentration of at least 0.3% of the total weight of the composition, preferably of 0.3 to 50% of the total weight of the composition, typically from 0.3 to 40% or from 0.3 to 30%, for example from 2 to 30%.

In a preferred embodiment, the method is characterized in that it further comprises the addition of another gelling agent, viscosifying or rheology modifier, which may be natural or synthetic. Indeed, the invention shows, unexpectedly, that the fern extract as defined above makes it possible to greatly increase the power of gelling agents. Thus, as illustrated in the examples, in the presence of 2% of extract according to the invention, the gelling power of agents is increased by 300%, which is remarkable and totally unexpected.

Another object of the invention relates to a use of a fern extract of the genus Cyathea for gelling or thickening a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition, from 0.3 to 50% by weight of a fern extract of the genus Cyathea, and from 0.05 to 20% by weight. another gelling agent, said extract containing at least 20% by weight of polysaccharides.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.5 to 10% of one or more other gelling agents, more preferably from 1 to 8%.

The gelling agent may be natural or synthetic. Preferably, the gelling agent is chosen from xanthan (modified or unmodified), guar (modified or unmodified), carrageenan or acrylates, styrenes, carbomers, taurates, bentonites, aluminum magnesium silicates, carrots, alginates, celluloses (modified or not), pectins, sclerotium, tara, karaya, acacia gum, starch derivatives, silicas, acrylamides and hydrocolloids.

In another particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention preferably comprise 0.05-2% of xanthan, 0.05-2% of guar, 0.05-2% of carrageenan and / or 0 , 05-2% of acrylate or other gelling agent according to the invention.

Another subject of the invention relates to a process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition having a viscosity greater than 100 mPa.s, characterized in that it comprises the addition to an initial composition of a fern extract of Cyathea genus in a concentration of at least 0.3%, preferably at least 2% of the total weight of the composition, said extract containing at least 20% by weight of polysaccharides.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may, moreover, contain certain conventional excipients, such as preservatives, pigments, stabilizers, etc., in a range typically ranging from 0-40% by weight.

The compositions of the invention are particularly useful and suitable for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological products, including therapeutic products.

The invention also relates to a process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises the addition to an initial composition of a composition comprising a fern extract of the genus Cyathea in a concentration of at least 0 , 3% of the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 2% of the total weight of the composition, more preferably still from 2 to 50% of the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, said extract is in the form of a powder containing at least 20% by weight of polysaccharides. Another subject of the invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above as a gelling composition for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological product.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention or the use of the composition obtained by the preparation method according to the invention, for improving the sensory properties of the skin and superficial body growths. According to another variant, the invention relates to the use of the composition according to the invention or the use of the composition obtained by the preparation method according to the invention, for improving hair and lashing properties.

The invention also relates to the use of a fern extract of the genus Cyathea or the use of the composition according to the invention for improving the film-forming, moisturizing and / or plasticizing properties of cosmetic products. The invention also relates to the use of a fern extract of the genus Cyathea containing at least 20% by weight of polysaccharides for stabilizing dispersed systems, such as emulsions or suspensions. Thus, a particular object of the invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above for the preparation of a cosmetic product.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic product comprising a composition as defined above or obtained by the process defined above (see Examples 3 and 4). The composition according to the invention can be used in all types of cosmetic products: serums, emulsions (W / O, O / W, multiple, microemulsions, nanoemulsions), gels, foaming products, sun products, skincare products (face and body) or makeup, for example milk, cream, foundation, body spray, mascara, eye shadow, hair products, in the presence of all types of assets, including encapsulated systems. The compositions of the invention can be used to develop cosmetics which are preferably in the form of single or multiple emulsions, lotions, gel, suspensions, dispersions. They are compatible with all types of active ingredients (such as vitamins, liposomes, filters and sunscreens, anti-aging active ingredients, anti-wrinkles, anti-oxidant, lightening, self-tanning, tanning accelerator, lifting, slimming, firming, moisturizing, exfoliating, sebum regulating, mattifying, etc.).

Such compositions may also contain the pharmaceutically or cosmetically acceptable carriers or diluents, which are customary, and suitable especially as diluent, dispersing agent, gelling agent, solid emollient, gums, resins, solvents, fillers such as modified starches and polymers, titanium dioxide, or metal stearate, preservatives, essential oils, pearlescent agents, colorants, odor absorbers, pH-regulating agents or neutralizing agents, emulsifiers, foaming agents, thickening agents, absorption promoters and in particular ethanol, flavoring or perfuming agents, inorganic pigments such as iron oxides, organic pigments, dyes, chelants, oily agents such as oils or fats plant-based, fats of animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils (cyclomethicone) ) fluorinated oils, esters of fatty alcohol (cetyl alcohol), humectants, waxes, modified clays, bentones, metal salts of fatty acid, hydrophobized silica, polyethylenes, mica, extracts plants and / or other substances used in cosmetics.

Another subject of the invention relates to a dermatological composition comprising a composition as defined above or obtained by the method of the invention. The inventors have carried out numerous tests to understand the mechanisms for modifying the viscosity as well as the mechanisms for modifying the rheological behavior of compositions following the addition of a fern extract of the genus Cyathea. The studies carried out have thus made it possible to show that one of these mechanisms is based on the formation of a three-dimensional network of polysaccharides contained in the fern extract of the genus Cyathea. Surprisingly, the tests in the presence of the extract according to the invention and an additional gelling agent have shown that the rheo-thickening effect is not correlated with the synergy of viscosity. In fact, for the tests carried out, the most important impact on the rheology is seen on the Mamaku / acrylate combinations (the acrylate used in the tests being an acrylate / taurate copolymer marketed in particular under the name Aristoflex AVC by the Clariant company).

Furthermore, the tests carried out by the inventors made it possible to determine that the fern extract of the genus Cyathea, dissolved in the process of the invention, has a particularly fresh, soft, silky, film-forming and non-tacky feel. These qualities are found in cosmetic or dermatological products in which the fern extract of the genus Cyathea has been incorporated.

Other aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the examples which follow, which should be considered as illustrative and not limiting.

EXAMPLES Example 1. Study of the viscosity.

In order to determine the viscosity properties of the fern extract of the genus Cyathea carried out according to the process of the invention, viscosity measurements were carried out. Surprisingly, the tests in the presence of fern extract of the genus Cyathea in combination with another gelling agent have shown synergistic effects (see FIG. 1).

The viscosity measurements (Rhéo ELV 8 viscometer, mobile 4, speed 60, 30 s) were made on various compositions and made it possible to establish that the fern extract of the genus Cyathea, in particular Mamaku, acts synergistically when it is present. put in the presence of some of the viscosants studied, such as the following gelling agents: Composition Viscosity (mPa. $) Mamaku 2% Xanthane 0.5% 490 Mamaku 1.5% + Xanthane 0.5% 1170 Mamaku 2% + Xanthan 0.5% 1400 Guar 0.5% 190 Mamaku 1.5% Guar 0.5% 200 Mamaku 2% + Guar 0.5% 780 Carrageenan 0.5% 70 Mamaku 1.5% + Carrageenan 0.5% 600 Mamaku 2% + Carrageenan 0.5% 820 Acrylates 0.2% 20 Mamaku 1.8% + Acrylates 0.2% 360 Mamaku 2% + Acrylates 0.2% 280 These measurements made it possible to show that the addition of an extract of Mamaku makes it possible to increase the viscosity of the composition obtained by a factor ranging from 300 to even 1000% (see FIG. 1). While the viscosity of a Mamaku extract dispersed alone in water is negligible by itself.

Example 2 Impact of fern extract of the genus Cyathea on the rheological behavior of a composition.

In order to establish the impact of the fern extract of the genus Cyathea, used according to the method of the invention, on the rheological profile of a composition, the following mixtures were prepared: Mamaku alone, acrylate alone, and Mamaku in combination with acrylate (see Figure 2). Rheograms were made with a mobile Couette 32 mm. They showed that Mamaku alone had a very characteristic rheogram. Mamaku is therefore rheo-thickening. In the presence of another gelling agent, it can modify its rheological profile. This modification is all the more surprising that it is not correlated with the synergy of viscosity. Indeed, this impact on the rheology does not appear with all the gelling agents. Example 3 Composition and Preparation of Face Care Cream ....................................... ................................... ............... .................................................. ......... ......................................... ................... PHASE INGREDIENT INCI NAME DEMINERIZED WATER FUNCTION WATER SOLVENT 75.20 GLYCERIN GLYCERIN HUMECTANT 2.00 EXTRACT FROM MAMAKU CYATHEA MEDULLARIS EXTRACT GELIFYING / AGEN 2.00 T TOUCHING SATIAXANE CX 91 XANTHAN GUM GELIFYING 0.50 SCULPTESSENCE WATER, GLYCERIN, LINUM USITATISSIMUM ACTIVE 5,00 (LINSEED) SEED EXTRACT B HELIOFEEL GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE, EMULSIFIER 4,00 POLYGLYCERYL 3 STEARATE, HYDROGENATED LECITHIN ALOE OIL PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET EMOLLIENT 10.00 SOFT ALMOND) OIL TOCOPHEROL ANTI OXIDANT 0.30 DERMOFEEL TOCO 70 PHENOXYETHANOL, METHYLPARABEN, CONSERVATIVE 1.00 DEKABEN C ETHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, ÈBUTYLPARABENISOBUTYLPARABEN Procedure: 1. Heat A and B at 70-75 ° C under a until the two phases are homogeneous. Emulsify B in A. 3. Cool with stirring.

EXAMPLE 4 Composition and Preparation of Cream Gel Energizing Body SE INGREDIENT NAME INCI FUNCTION ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, WITH DEMINERALIZED WATER WATER SOLVENT 87,20 GLYCERIN GLYCERIN HUMECTANT 2,00 EXTRACT OF MAMAKU CYATHEA CUMINGII EXTRACT GELIFIER / AGENT OF 0.50 TOUCH ----------- -------------------------------------------------- ------------ B HELIOGEL SODIUM ACRYLATE GELIFYING / EMULSIONNAN 2.00 COPOLYMER, T HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE, POLYGLYCERYL 10 STEARATE, DC 345 PHOSPHOLIPIDS, HELIANTHUS EMOLLIENT 7.00 ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED DERMOFEEL TOCO 70 OIL 0.30 DEKABEN C CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, ANTI OXIDANT 1.00 CYCLOHEXASILOXANE CONSERVATIVE TOCOPHEROL PHENOXYETHANOL, METHYLPARABEN, ETHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, BUTYLPARABEN ISOBUTYLPARABEN Procedure: 1. Mix A and B separately until both phases are homogeneous. 2. Emulsify B in A. 3. Shake until a homogeneous cream gel is obtained. PHA

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. Process for increasing the viscosity or modifying the rheological behavior of a composition, characterized in that it comprises a step of mixing said composition with a fern extract of the genus Cyathea. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract comes from fern leaves of the genus Cyathea. 3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the fern extract is an extract of C. arborea, C. australis, C. brevipinna, C. Brownil, C. capensis, C. caracasana, C. celebica , C. celensoi, C. cooperi, C. cumingii, C. cunninghamii, C. dealbata, C. dregei, C. fulva, C. gleichenoide, C. howeana, C. incisocerrat, C. kermadacensis, C. leichhardtiana, C. : lunulata, C. macarthuri, C. macgregorii, C. medullaris, C. rebeccae, C. robertsiana, C. robusta, C. smithii, C. spinulosa, C. tomentosissima, C. veillardii or C. woolsiana. 4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said extract is in the form of a powder. 5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said extract contains at least 20% by weight of polysaccharides, preferably 75%, relative to the total weight of the extract. 25 6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the step of mixing said composition with the fern extract takes place in a pH range between pH 3 and pH 10. 7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said extract is incorporated into the composition in a concentration of at least 0.3% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.3 to 50% by weight. .20% 8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises the addition of another gelling agent, which may be natural or synthetic. 9. Use of a fern extract of the genus Cyathea to gel or thicken a cosmetic or dermatological composition. 10. Cosmetic composition comprising 0.3 to 50% by weight of a fern extract of the genus Cyathea, and 0.05 to 20% by weight of another gelling agent, relative to the total weight of the composition, said extract containing at least 20% by weight of polysaccharides. 11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that said gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of xanthan, guar, carrageenan, acrylates, styrenes, carbomers, taurates, bentonites, magnesium aluminum silicates. , carobs, alginates, celluloses (modified or not), pectins, sclerotium, tara, karaya, acacia gum, starch derivatives, silicas, acrylamides, and hydrocolloids. 12. Process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition having a viscosity greater than 100 mPa.s, characterized in that it comprises the addition to an initial composition of a fern extract of the genus Cyathea in a concentration of less than 0.3% of the total weight of the composition, said extract containing at least 20% by weight of polysaccharides. 13. Process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises the addition to an initial composition of a composition comprising a fern extract of the genus Cyathea in a concentration of at least 0.3% of the total weight of the composition, said extract being in the form of a powder containing at least 20% by weight of polysaccharides. 14. Use of a composition according to claim 10 or 11, or obtained by the method according to claim 12 or 13, for improving the sensory properties of the skin and superficial body growths. 15. Use of a composition according to claim 10 or 11, or obtained by the process according to claim 12 or 13, to improve the shaping properties for hair and eyelashes. 16. Use of a fern extract of the genus Cyathea, said extract containing at least 20% by weight of polysaccharides to improve the film-forming, moisturizing and / or plasticizing properties of cosmetic products. 17. Use of a fern extract of the genus Cyathea, said extract containing at least 20% by weight of polysaccharides, for stabilizing dispersed systems.