FR2895257A1 - Use of lipophilic antioxidant as active principle for preparing cosmetic and/or dermatological composition to maintain and/or reinforce the protective and reparative native function of lipophilic structures of eye contour - Google Patents

Abstract

Use of a lipophilic antioxidant as active principle for the preparation of a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition to maintain and/or reinforce the protective and reparative native function of eye contour lipophilic structures, eye contour adipose tissues, eyelid adipose tissues or periocular zone adipocytes, is new. An independent claim is included for cosmetic treatment of the lipophilic structures of eye contour comprising administering the above composition topically or orally, to maintain and/or reinforce the protective and/or reparative function of the structures.

Description

The present invention relates to the use of at least one antioxidant

  lipophilic agent as active ingredient for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended to maintain and / or enhance the protective and / or repairing native function of the lipophilic structures, in particular adipose tissues of the eye contour, and in particular of the lodges fat cells of the eyelids. It is admitted by the specialists of the aesthetic surgery that the zone of the eye contour, whose eyelids, is the seat of marks of the aging which confers on the face an aged, sad and tired aspect as a result of the slackening of the skin. In particular, the septum (corresponding to the middle lamella of the eyelid) becomes weakened with age, thus making palpebral lipoptosis possible, by prolapse of intraorbital fat through the septal dehiscence. All of these signs of aging can often mark traits more pronounced than wrinkles, especially after age 40. To alleviate all these alterations, there is more and more recourse to acts of cosmetic surgery of the eyelids. However, for obvious reasons, it would be desirable to be able to have softer and in particular non-invasive alternatives, for example, topically, cutaneously, mucosa, particularly conjunctival or lacrimal. Moreover, from the ophthalmological point of view, it is also known that the vulnerability of the eye to light radiation, and in particular that of the lens which deteriorates during aging, evolving towards a cataract that is probably photo-aggravated, is more important. in the infero-nasal area of the eye, which is located near the lower internal fatty lodge. The aggravating if not triggering role of the intense and repetitive exposure of the eye to the UV and blue rays of the sun or other light sources is also known for degenerative retinopathies such as macular degeneration (the most serious lesions appearing on the skin). macula, area of the retina where UV is concentrated), and in particular AMD or age-related macular degeneration. It therefore appears also very important, vis-à-vis the protection of the eye, strengthen the reserves of protective active ingredients near these sensitive areas.

  Indeed, before reaching the eye, light rays pass through the skin and other tissues of the eyelids, which are thin and translucent. It is therefore possible for them to reach and activate molecules, and in particular protective molecules present, and in particular stored in the palpebral tissues, more particularly the reserve zones which are specific to them. Finally, it has recently been observed that new lifestyles confront the periocular zone and the eyes with physical or chemical attacks or stresses that can worsen or accelerate local phenomena of pathological or aging-related degeneration. This is most often the exposure to multiple new sources of modern lighting approached from the eyes repeatedly and cumulatively for hundreds or thousands of hours (such as halogen lamps, work lamps, screens). electronic appliances ...). In addition, these exposures often occur in polluted or smoking atmospheres.

  The object of the present invention is precisely to provide a composition capable of meeting these needs with protective active principles at the level of the lipophilic tissues of the eye contour, in particular the eyelids, in particular the lower eyelids, and particularly the adipocytes of the periocular zone. . Thus, unexpectedly, the inventors have found that the use of lipophilic antioxidants in the adipose tissue of the eye contour, and in particular those belonging to the family of carotenes and carotenoids, particularly xanthophylls such as lutein and zeaxanthin , as well as lycopene and 13-carotene, is particularly suitable for reinforcing the protective role of the tissue structures of the eyelids and the eye.

  Ophthalmic formulas containing a lipophilic anti-oxidant active ingredient are already described, for example based on alpha tocopherol, but they are essentially formulas intended for adjunctive treatment in certain disorders of the vision.

  Accordingly, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to the use of at least one lipophilic antioxidant as an active ingredient for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended to maintain and / or strengthen the Protective and / or repairing native function of the lipophilic structures of the eye contour, in particular the corresponding adipose tissue. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "maintain" means to qualify the fact of ensuring a permanent and sufficient reserve of lipophilic antioxidant (s) at the level of the targeted tissue areas. This is among other things to ensure permanent availability of lipophilic antioxidant (s) at the level of the "physiological reservoir", that is the adipose tissue. According to one particular embodiment, the lipophilic structures considered according to the invention are the adipose tissues and in particular the masses of subcutaneous fat cells and the fat chambers of the eyelids, and in particular the lower eyelids. For reasons of simplification, the term "adipose tissue" covers within the meaning of the present invention the clusters of subcutaneous fat cells and fat deposits of the eyelids.

  The fat chambers constitute, in the area of the upper and lower eyelids situated all around the eyeball, a kind of discontinuous thick crown going from the surface to the depth, and maintained under pressure by the tissues. The anatomy describes in particular 2 isolated boxes for the upper eyelid (middle and inner lodge), not including the fat pads of the eyebrows, and 3 boxes for the lower eyelid (outer lodge, middle lodge and inner lodge). There are also, depending on the localization and probably in a variable manner depending on the individual, conventional adipocytes more or less dispersed in the subepidermal tissues. The invention also relates, in another of its aspects, to the use of at least one lipophilic antioxidant as active principle for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended to maintain and / or enhance the native function protecting and / or repairing the lipophilic structures of the eye contour, and in particular adipose tissue of the eye contour, and in particular adipocytes of the periocular zone. The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a method for the cosmetic treatment of lipophilic structures of the eye contour, and in particular adipose tissue of the eye contour, and in particular the lower eyelids, topically comprising at least one step of applying to said structures a composition according to the invention for maintaining and / or reinforcing the protective and / or repairing native function of the lipophilic structures of the eye contour, and in particular the adipose tissue of the contour eyes, and especially eyelids. According to another aspect of the invention, it relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of lipophilic structures of the eye contour, and in particular the adipose tissues of the eye contour, and in particular the eyelids comprising at least the oral administration of a composition according to the invention for maintaining and / or reinforcing the protective and / or repairing native function of said structures. According to a particular embodiment, the adipose tissue of the eyelids considered according to the invention are the periocular adipocytes. As previously stated, the eyelids and the fatty lodges play a major role in the physical, especially mechanical, protection of the eyeball. These are very effective barriers and shock absorbers. They also allow to maintain around the eye a favorable environment for repair in case of physical, chemical or pathological. In particular, we recognize rather a role of "bumper" to the lower eyelid and "dressing" to the upper eyelid. The inventors have thus found that it is possible to compensate for a deficiency and / or to reinforce the native content of the adipose tissues and in particular the adipose compartments of the eye contour in protective and repairing natural lipophilic active principles by using a composition comprising at least one active ingredient according to the invention. The availability of these reserves is particularly valuable for dealing with stressful situations such as atmospheric pollution, tobacco, excessive exposure to light radiation, such as those from the sun, artificial lighting, emanating from examples of television screens, various electronic devices or computers that cause cellular damage, functional and / or accelerated tissue aging. The studies showed that the wavelengths responsible for the alterations were not only ultraviolet radiation but also certain wavelengths of the visible spectrum and in particular those close to blue.

  Thus, the skin of the eyelids being the finest of the body, it is also the most fragile face aging, the most easily traversed by the electromagnetic radiation of light, but also the most permeable to active ingredients.

  Similarly, the tissues and structures of the periocular zone, in particular the skin and its adjacent structures, the conjunctival mucosa and the lacrimal system, are fragile elements whose integrity guarantees that of the eye which itself undergoes alterations of the skin. age and cumulative wear over the years of exogenous and endogenous stress especially in the lens (cataract) and the retina (macular degeneration). However, attacks such as those of pollution and light are continuous for long periods and repeated daily. Consequently, the present invention advantageously makes it possible to provide the exposed tissues with immediate, permanent and high-capacity reserves of protective molecules capable of absorbing smoothly the metabolic peaks generated by a hostile environment.

  The lipophilic active principles that can be used for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention are most often of natural origin but can also be of synthetic origin. By way of example of lipophilic active principles that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of the family of carotenoids generally synthesized by plants and accumulated in certain animal products. More than 600 carotenoids are known today. They are widespread in the plant kingdom, many of them are used as food colors often yellow, orange or red). As an illustration of these carotenoids, mention may in particular be made of xanthophylls and their metabolites such as lutein (in green vegetables such as green cabbage, spinach, petals of marigolds), egg yolk, zeaxanthin (marigold , citrus fruits), astaxanthin (algae), cryptoxanthin (prickly pears, citrus fruits), fucoxanthin (brown algae), rhodoxanthine, rubixanthine, canthaxanthin, carotenes such as alpha- carotene, beta-carotene, lycopene (tomato, watermelon, watermelon, pink grapefruit, papaya, guava, Dunaliella microalgae), bixin, crocetin, crocin and their mixtures . Lipophilic active principles that can be used according to the present invention are also suitable as vitamins or provitamines, such as retinoids and in particular retinol precursors or derivatives, tocopherols, or components which, by their function and their generally exogenous supply, come close to it. ; unsaponifiables, polyunsaturated essential fatty acids in particular 0o-3, DHA or docosahaxaenoic acid and their derivatives or their precursors. Lipoic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid and curcuminoids may also be mentioned. According to a particular embodiment, the active ingredient is a carotenoid which is a vitamin A precursor that is particularly important for the eye (the retinal pigment epithelium) and vision. More particularly, it is beta-carotene. According to a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic antioxidant is chosen from beta-carotene and lycopene, and from xanthophylls and in particular lutein, zeaxanthin, astaxanthin and (3-cryptoxanthin and mixtures thereof.

  Although naturally brought by a varied and balanced rich diet, one often observes deficiencies if not deficiencies in these active principles and all the peripheral tissues do not profit from a regular contribution. Advantageously, when they are provided according to the invention, they are capable of binding and persisting in the local tissues and metabolic exchanges are thus likely to take place in a sustained manner according to the demand and the immediate needs of the neighboring tissues. In particular, by concentrating in the adipose tissue, they contribute to the formation of a permanent natural reservoir and large volume in the immediate vicinity of the eyes. Thus, the storage of these protective molecules in the lipophilic structures and particularly the adipocytes of the periocular zone, and in particular of the eyelids, makes it possible to constitute a sustained-effect reserve located immediately near the fragile tissues with respect to the degradations. oxidative, especially those resulting from exposure to sunlight or artificial light rich in blue and ultraviolet light and harmful to supporting tissues, the retina and the lens. It has indeed been shown that a wavelength close to that of blue (i.e. ranging from 400 to 500 nm and particularly close to 460 nm) makes the radiation particularly penetrating and deleterious. Since carotenes and carotenoids, in particular xanthophylls, are of yellow-component coloring, they are of particular interest for stopping or limiting the penetration of the aforementioned radiations into the deep structures of the ocular and periocular zone.

  In addition, it has also been shown that children, during the first years of their lives, are particularly sensitive to this radiation. Indeed, UV light A and B are poorly absorbed by the lens at 10 years (75% of UVB reaches the retina) and much more at 25 years (only 10% reach the retina).

  On the other hand, it is known that protection or natural filtration is impaired in people of at least 40 years of age, especially those aged at least 60 years and that the risk of photochemical damage to the eye increases by consequently with age, because of the increase in photon absorption. The use and the method of treatment proposed according to the present invention thus prove to be particularly advantageous for these two types of population. More generally, the compositions according to the invention are particularly interesting for subjects likely to present cataract, presbyopia and / or retinal degeneration and in particular macular degeneration. The compositions according to the invention do not have a curative effect with respect to these disorders, but prove, on the other hand, to be particularly advantageous as a preventive measure, or even as secondary treatment associated with a main treatment. The composition according to the invention is of course also advantageous in this respect with regard to pathologies associated with or likely to be associated with the aforementioned disorders such as diabetes, glaucoma or myopia.

  Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention and the corresponding cosmetic treatment methods prove to be effective in constituting, maintaining and / or reinforcing the type of continuous reserve described above, even when they are administered at a low dosage of active material. Thus, carotenoids for example, even when present at a low concentration, are strongly colored in yellow or in a color with a strong yellow component, which allows them to absorb an effective amount of blue radiation sufficient to significantly reduce the damage caused by these wavelength rays which is particularly harmful for the eye. In general, the lipophilic antioxidants are formulated in a proportion of less than 10% by weight, in particular less than 6% by weight and more particularly less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the corresponding composition.

  Of course, these amounts are likely to vary significantly depending on the mode of administration considered, namely topically or orally. For example, in the case of a topical administration, the compositions according to the invention may comprise less than 0.2% by weight, in particular from 0.000001% to 0.2% by weight, especially less than 0% by weight. , 05% by weight, or else from 0.0005 to 0.05%, and more particularly in the proportion of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight of lipophilic antioxidant (s) relative to the total weight of the composition . On the other hand, in the case of compositions intended for oral administration, significantly larger amounts of lipophilic antioxidant can be envisaged. For example, they may comprise at least 0.1% by weight and up to 10% by weight, especially up to 20% by weight or even up to 30% by weight of lipophilic antioxidant (s) by relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Some assets according to the invention are available in commercial form. Thus, it is possible to use: the F1oraGlo raw material of the Kemin Foods supplier containing 20% lutein and 0.8% zeaxanthin in the safflower oil. Orally, the same raw material can be used, for example, at 20 mg per ration or per tablet, the tomato extract enriched with lycopene prepared by Metaphar 20 sold under the name LycOMato consisting of an oleoresin extract containing 6 % by weight of pure lycopene, Dunaliella bardawi extract oily dispersion titrated at 2.5% 13-carotene marketed by the company SENSIENT, - (3-carotene distributed in 0.6% solution in the apricot kernel oil, or a mixture of carotenoids, mainly 30% (3-carotene in soybean oil, and - Haematococcus pluvialis algae extract titrated at 6% astaxanthin dispersed in C8 / 10 triglycerides marketed as Astatrol-X from Fuji Chemical Industry The protective or repairing effect of these lipophilic antioxidants can be relayed, amplified, supplemented or synergized by association with other protective or repair molecules. these acting in other compartments than lipophilic anti-oxidation or other mechanisms, for example the strengthening of blood or lymphatic capillary vessels, cell membranes, the stimulation of cellular metabolism of construction and synthesis or otherwise elimination of toxic molecules, the stimulation of enzymatic systems.

  Thus, the lipophilic active principles according to the invention may be combined with at least one hydrophilic active ingredient chosen especially from water-soluble vitamins and in particular vitamin C, other antiradical agents such as glutathione, enzymatic systems (SOD, catalase glutathione peroxidase, ubiquinone and ubiquinol (Coenzyme Q10), metal ion scavengers or sequestrants such as, for example, calcium or disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate, polyphenols and plant extracts rich in polyphenols and including flavonoids, citroflavonoids, rutin, extracts of gingko, vine (leaf or fruit), horse chestnut, chamomile, hamamelis, rose, rosemary and their analogues of synthesis or semisynthesis , their derivatives or precursors, extracts of native or fermented tea leaves or buds, chicory, procyanidolic oligomers (grape seed or maritime pine), anthocyanins and especially anthocyanins of blue or purple red berries such as blackcurrant, bilberries, cranberries, cranberries, elderberry, anthocyanins of flower petals such as cornflower, rose, mauve, hibiscus, or their analogs of synthesis or semisynthesis; complex extracts of plants such as yarrow containing flavonoids and azulene; plant extracts containing saponosides (Ruscus aculeatus, Centella asiatica, Glycyrrhiza glabra); extracts containing coumarins (esculetin, esculetol, melilot, visnadine, G. glabra); coffee extracts, caffeine and other natural or synthetic xanthine bases and their derivatives; minerals or trace elements such as, for example, copper, zinc, selenium, calcium, strontium, fluorine, silver and gold, their oxides or inorganic or organic salts; polysaccharides and especially hyaluronic acid and its salts or graft polymers, sorbitol, mannitol, cellulose gels and cellulose derivatives (ex methylcellulose or hydroxypropyl cellulose); cicatrizing hydrocolloids such as chitosans, alginates and their derivatives; glycosaminoglycans or mucopolysaccharides, and mixtures thereof. These additional active agents complete the action and / or the effect of the lipophilic active principles according to the invention while concentrating for their part in the hydrophilic compartments of the peri-ocular tissues and liquids, in particular the tears, the internal medium or the dermal matrix. and may have an additional dressing, lubricant or antidehydration effect which is particularly important in case of heating or excessive evaporation of the tear film. It recreates a biomimetic medium favorable to the chemical and immune self-defense of the ocular zone. These complementary hydrophilic active agents, and in particular the plant extracts, may be combined in a proportion of less than 5% by weight, preferably between 0.0001 and 1% by weight, and more particularly between 0.001% and 0.1% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. These amounts are of course liable to vary according to the mode of administration chosen for the composition. The lipophilic active principles according to the invention may also be combined with analogs of the natural components of the tears (and in particular amino acids, peptides, ions or salts such as, for example, NaCl), immunoprotective agents, antistamines, antiseptics, cicatrizing agents and / or blue dyes, and mixtures thereof. The hydrophilic compartment may be buffered (for example by a phosphate buffer) so as to ensure the stability of the pH in the vicinity of the physiological pH of the tear film generally between 7.4 and 7.7. In a particular embodiment, lipophilic antioxidants alone or in admixture with other actives may be formulated within compositions in encapsulated form. It is known in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, for example from the documents EP-A-557489, EP-A-447318 and WO-A-93/25195, to administer topically active agents trapped in spherules in order to improve the efficiency of these assets. These spherules are in particular polymer nanoparticles, of small size, of the order of 10 to 1000 nm. The term nanoparticles covers on the one hand the nanospheres and on the other hand the nanocapsules. The term "nanospheres" refers to nanoparticles consisting of a porous polymeric matrix on which the active ingredient is absorbed and / or adsorbed, and "nanocapsules" means nanoparticles constituted by a polymeric membrane that encapsulates an oily core.

  The weight ratio between the polymer and the active agent and / or the support in which the active ingredient is trapped, in this case at least one lipophilic antioxidant, advantageously varies from 0.01 to 1, and preferably from 0, 05 to 0.5.

  The nanoparticles according to the invention can be prepared according to the usual methods, and in particular according to the processes described in documents EP-A-447318 and WO-A-93/25195. The constituent polymers of the nanoparticles according to the invention may be biodegradable or non-biodegradable polymers. As biodegradable polymers, it is possible to use any polymer that may be degraded by the skin enzymes, and in particular those mentioned in document EP-A-447318. In particular, biodegradable polymers include poly-L- and DL-lactides and polycaprolactones. By way of illustration of these non-biodegradable polymers, mention may be made more particularly of vinyl chloride and vinyl acetate copolymers, and of methacrylic acid and methacrylic acid methyl ester copolymers. Thus, the active principles that can be used in the context of the present invention, and in particular the lipophilic antioxidants, may be present in a composition according to the invention in an encapsulated form, and in particular be nanoencapsulated in polycaprolactone nanocapsules with a lipophilic core, as described in EP 780 115, where appropriate in a coated form to prevent uncontrolled release of the actives. This coating may be a lamellar coating based on lecithin, as described in EP-A-447318 or more advantageously a lamellar coating consisting of at least one silicone surfactant comprising at least one oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated chain as described. for example, these nanoparticles may be polycaprolactone nanocapsules containing 0.5% enriched tomato extract or nanocapsules containing 0.1% (3-carotene algae). particularly particularly to the present invention, nanoparticles as described in document FR 2 848 879. These are nanocapsules consisting of a lipid core formed by or comprising at least one lipophilic antioxidant and an insoluble continuous polymeric envelope in water comprising at least one polysilsesquioxane silicone polymer.The latter type of nanocapsules is particularly advantageous for stabilizing the Sensitive lipophilic active agents, and in particular allows to protect them against oxidation and hydrolysis, while maintaining the polymeric wall its sealing vis-à-vis the continuous aqueous phase. It is particularly illustrated in the examples below. Preferably, the nanoparticles represent from 0.1 to 40% by weight, and better still from 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms normally used depending on the mode of application or administration chosen. More particularly, the compositions according to the invention may be formulated for topical application or for oral administration, preferably for topical application. The support may be of a different nature depending on the type of composition considered. As regards more particularly the compositions intended for a topical application, they may be aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, dispersions of the type of solutions or dispersions of the lotion or serum type, emulsions of liquid or semi-solid consistency. milk type liquid, suspensions or emulsions, cream type, aqueous or anhydrous gel, microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type, sticks, pastes, powders or tablets to dissolve or disperse extemporaneously in a more fluid phase, bigels to mix extemporaneously.

  In the case of topical administration, the compositions according to the invention may jointly provide a makeup effect. Thus, it may be for example care creams, care gels, masks, patches, masks on support, foundation, camouflage, concealer, eyeshadow, outline pencils eyes, kohl, mascaras or makeup removers. The formulas can produce during their application a heating or cooling temperature change effect, generated by an extemporaneous exothermic reaction or by a station of the dose to be applied in a water bath or microwave oven. This is concomitant thermotherapy.

  A particularly valuable form of presentation is the presentation in sterile unidose without preservatives, or a presentation in a vial allowing the use of a sterile formulation without preservatives for a period longer than that of the usual preparations that can come into contact with the eyes and particularly those without preservatives, such as the Abak TM vials from Théa pharmaceutical laboratories in Clermont-Ferrand France (according to patents EP 0 366 534 B1 and EP 1 036 013 B1) allowing the use of a sterile formulation without preservatives for a period of 8 weeks after opening. Another preferred presentation is the liquid form packaged in the hollow stem of a cotton swab as described in document FR 0 212 155. All the aforementioned compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

  When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase may range from 0.01 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the emulsion composition are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field with a preference for light fatty substances that do not produce a haze sensation on the eye. no unpleasant evaporation for him. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier may be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preference is given to light emulsions poor in the fat phase maintained in supension within gels with little or no emulsifiers. When the composition of the invention is a solution or an oily gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition. In known manner, the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants which are usual in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and / or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, sunscreens, bactericides, odor absorbers and dyes. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase and / or into the aqueous phase. As fats which can be used in the invention, in addition to unsaturated fatty acids, mention may be made of mineral oils such as, for example, hydrogenated polyisobutene and liquid petrolatum, vegetable oils such as, for example, a liquid fraction of shea butter, vegetable oil, sunflower and apricot kernels, animal oils such as perhydrosqualene, synthetic oils including Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate and ethyl hexyl palmitate, and fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers. It is also possible to use fatty alcohols, fatty acids such as stearic acid and, for example, waxes such as paraffin, carnauba and beeswax. It is also possible to use silicone compounds such as silicone oils and, for example, cyclomethicone and dimethicone, waxes, resins and silicone gums. For obvious reasons, these compositions will be used under conditions compatible with good ocular tolerance. As emulsifiers that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of glycerol stearate, polysorbates 20, 40, 60 and 80, the cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearyl alcohol mixture oxyethylenated with 33 moles of ethylene oxide sold under the name Sinnowax AO by HENKEL, the PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate mixture sold under the name Tefose 63 by Gattefosse, PPG-3 myristyl ether, silicone emulsifiers such as cetyldimethicone copolyol and mono- or sorbitan tristearate, PEG-40 stearate, oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20%). As solvents that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of lower alcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol and propylene glycol. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of carboxylic polymers such as carbomer, acrylic copolymers such as copolymers of acrylates / alkyl acrylates, polyacrylamides and in particular the polyacrylamide mixture, C13-14-Isoparaffin and Laureth-7 sold under the name Sepigel 305 by the company SEPPIC, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses and in particular hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, natural gums such as guar, carob and xanthan and clays, AMPS gels, families aqueous gelling agents: vinyl resins (polyvinyl pyrrolidone or polyvinyl alcohol), carbomers (934, 940) gelled with bases such as sodium hydroxide and the derivatives of these molecules. Lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned are modified clays, such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, or ethylcellulose and polyethylene, waxes, and amino acid derivatives. . The topical application of the lipophilic antioxidants considered according to the invention advantageously allows their storage in the lipophilic structures and in particular the adipocytes localized in large quantities and intimately distributed around the eye, whatever the age of the subject and even on a face not bloated. The cosmetic process according to the invention may be carried out by topical application, for example daily, of the composition according to the invention which may for example be formulated in the form of gels, lotions or emulsions, patch, mask, paste or stick.

  Thus, the method according to the invention may comprise a single application. According to another embodiment, the application is repeated as often as the subject feels the need during the day, particularly if he feels tired or he feels eye discomfort, tightness, warm-up or tingling, or a feeling of dryness in the periocular area.

  According to another embodiment, an application (a patch or a gel, or a mouthwash for example) is performed in the evening when sleeping. In another embodiment, the subject applies a drop on each eyelid and gently massages with the finger or a cotton swab. According to another application, the camouflaging concealer product is applied to the eyelids in the morning before the foundation.

  In the case of the administration of a composition according to the invention orally, the use of an ingestible support is preferred. It may be, for example, chewing gum, lozenges or chewing gums, aerosols, patches, tablets or effervescent powder.

  Of course, the two modes of administration discussed above, that is to say topically and orally can be considered simultaneously with of course respectively respective dosage forms. The following examples are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the invention.

  Unless otherwise specified, the percentages given below are expressed as percentage by weight.

  EXAMPLE 1 An oil-in-water emulsion care cream of the following composition is prepared: Lycopene 6% (Lycomato) 0.01% - Glycerol stearate 2.00% - Polysorbate 60 (Tween 60 sold by the company) ICI) 1.00% - Stearic acid 1.40% - Glycyrrhetinic acid 2.00% - Triethanolamine 0.70% - Carbomer 0.40% - Liquid fraction of shea butter 12.00% - Sunflower oil 10, 00% - Antioxidant 0.05% - Perfume 0.50% - Preservative 0.30% - Water qs 100.00% Example 2 Manufacture of nanocapsules of (3-carotene In a 250 ml amber glass flask, it is dissolved under inert atmosphere, at room temperature (20 ° C.), and with stirring: 0.5 g of dimethicone copolyol (DC2-5695 from Dow Corning), 0.5 g of polymethylsilsesquioxane (Belsil PMS MK resin from Wacker) in 100 ml In another amber glass flask of 250 ml, the β-carotene is introduced in an amount adjusted to include 0.05% by weight relative to the weight of the nanocapsule. e, then the above acetone phase is added and stirred at room temperature until complete dissolution of the active.

  In another 0.5 liter amber glass flask, 0.25 g of poloxamer 338 (ethylene oxide / propylene oxide triblock polycondensate sold under the name Synperonic PE / F108 was dissolved under an inert atmosphere by Uniqema) in 200 g of water at room temperature with stirring.

  The acetone phase is poured into the aqueous phase while maintaining stirring. Then the acetone and a portion of the water are evaporated using a rotary evaporator until a final volume of 50 ml is obtained. An aqueous suspension of β-carotene nanocapsules having an average diameter of 259 nm is obtained.

  Example 3 A day cream for skin care, of the oil-water emulsion type, comprising: Oily phase: - Diglycerol monostearate 2.0% - Stearate POE (200E) 1.5% - N Stearoyl L glutamic disodium 0.5% - (Acylglutamate HS 21) - Vaseline oil 3.0% -Vaseline 1.0% - Stearyl Heptanoate 3.0% - Apricot almond oil 5.0% - Hydrogenated polyisobutene 5, 0% - Isoketyl Palmitate 2.0% - Volatile Silicone 5.0% - Preservative qs

  Aqueous phase 1: - Glycerol 5.0% - Preservatives qs - Distilled water qs 100.0% Aqueous phase 2: - Carbomer - Triethanolamine - Preservatives - Distilled water

  Aqueous phase 3: - Nanocapsules of (3-carotene according to Example 2 The aqueous phase 1 is introduced at 60 ° C. in the oily phase itself at this temperature, with very vigorous stirring, the temperature and stirring are maintained during 30 minutes The suspension is then brought to ambient temperature, the aqueous phase 2 is then dispersed in the suspension using a non-shearing disperser, and then the aqueous phase 3 is introduced with slight stirring. cream expected.

  EXAMPLE 4 Gums to be administered orally - wheat flour 50.0% - sucrose 40.0% - citric acid qs pH 6.5 - lutein 0.2% - water qs 100.0% 25 Example 5 Stick - Extract Haematococcus pluvialis at 6% astaxanthin (Astratrol-X) 0.001% - Blueberry fruit extract titrated at 25% anthocyanosides (Cognis) 0.0005% - Kaolin 5% - Titanium dioxide 30% 0.4% 0 , 4% qs 15.0%

  10.0% 19 19 - Ethylhexyl palmitate 40% - 6% metal oxides - 0.4% preservatives - Ozokerite qs 100% Example 6 Lotion for the eyelids (single dose or abak bottle) - polyvinyl pyrrolidone 1.5% - NaCl 0, 9% - lutein 0.001% - distilled H2O qs 100% Example 7 Soothing gel anti-bags and / or concealer 15 It can be formulated in sterile form, in a single dose vial. - caffeine 1,000% - ethanol 2,000% - stabilized rose petroglycolic acid extract marketed as ROSE FLOWER (PETAL) HERBASOL EXTRACT PG by COSMETOCHEMO 1,000% -LUTEIN (5% Kemin Foods FloraGLO Liquid free) 0.001% - EDTA 0.100% - Ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate (HOSTACERIN AMPS Clariant) 0.800% - hydrogenated isoparafine 2.500% - isohexadecane 2.500% - 2 cetostearyl ethyl hexanoate 1,000% - glycerol 3,000% 30 - H2O qs 100% 10

Claims (22)

  1. Use of at least one lipophilic antioxidant as active principle for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended to maintain and / or enhance the protective and restorative native function of the lipophilic structures of the eye contour.   2. Use of at least one lipophilic antioxidant as active ingredient for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended to maintain and / or enhance the protective and restorative native function of the adipose tissues of the eye contour.   3. Use of at least one lipophilic antioxidant as active ingredient for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended to maintain and / or strengthen the protective and restorative native function of the fat deposits of the eyelids.   4. Use of at least one lipophilic antioxidant as active principle for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended to maintain and / or enhance the protective and repairing native function of the adipocytes of the periocular zone.   5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the lipophilic antioxidant is selected from vitamins and pro-vitamins, carotenoids, retinoids, unsaponifiables, polyunsaturated fatty acids, glycyrrhetinic acid , their derivatives or precursors and mixtures.   The use according to claim 5, wherein the antioxidant is a carotenoid selected from beta-carotene, licopene, lutein, astaxanthin, 5-cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and mixtures thereof.   The use according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the carotenoid is beta-carotene.   Use according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the carotenoid is lycopene.   9. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition comprises less than 10% by weight, in particular less than 6% by weight, in particular less than 5% by weight of lipophilic antioxidants relative to its composition. total weight.   10. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition comprises less than 0.2% by weight, in particular from 0.000001% to 0.2% by weight, especially less than 0.05%. by weight, and in particular in a proportion of 0.0005 to 0.05% by weight, and more particularly in a proportion of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight of lipophilic antioxidant (s) relative to its total weight.   The use according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the lipophilic antioxidant is in nanoencapsulated form.   12. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein said lipophilic antioxidant is associated with at least one hydrophilic active ingredient.   13. Use according to claim 12, wherein the hydrophilic active ingredient is selected from vitamins, enzymatic systems, scavengers or sequestering metal ions, polyphenols, anthocyanins, complex extracts of plants, minerals and trace elements, polysaccharides, hydrocolloids, glycosaminoglycans and mixtures thereof.   14. Use according to claim 12 or 13, wherein the hydrophilic active agents are present in a proportion of less than 5% by weight, in particular from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, and more particularly from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   15. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the lipophilic antioxidant is associated with analogues of the natural components of tears, including amino acids, peptides, ions or salts, immunoprotective agents, antistamines antiseptics, healing agents and / or blue dyes and mixtures thereof.   16. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein the composition is formulated for topical application.   17. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein the composition is formulated for oral administration.   18. Use according to any one of claims 2 to 17, wherein said adipose tissue is the fat boxes of the lower eyelids. 30   19. A method of cosmetic treatment of lipophilic structures of the eye contour by the topical route comprising at least one step of applying to said structures a composition as described in any one of claims 1 to 16 for maintaining and / or strengthening the protective and / or repairing native function of said structures.   20. A method of cosmetic treatment of lipophilic structures of the eye contour comprising at least the oral administration of a composition as described in any one of claims 1 to 15 for maintaining and / or strengthening the function. native protecting and / or repairing said structures.   21. The method of claim 19 or 20, wherein the lipophilic structures are adipose tissue of the eye contour.   22. The method of claim 21, wherein the adipose tissue is the adipose tissues of the eyelids and more particularly the periocular adipocytes.