EA003479B1 - Artificial fur and method for its manufacture - Google Patents

Abstract

1. An artificial fur in which staple fibres (3) are mechanically mixed to a base knitted fabric (1) formed of a yarn (1a), to protrude from the level of the base knitted fabric (1) and to form a pile on the outer surface of the artificial fur, characterized in that the staple fibres (3) mixed to the base knitted fabric (1) are fixed to the base knitted fabric (1) by thermal binding by means of a plastic material softened and/or melted by the effect of heat. 2. The artificial fur according to claim 1, characterized in that the thermal binding is performed by means of staple fibres (3) mixed to the base knitted fabric (1) and comprising plastic material softened and/or melted by the effect of heat. 3. The artificial fur according to claim 1, characterized in that the thermal binding is performed by means of the yarn (1a) of the base knitted fabric (1) which comprises plastic material softened and/or melted by the effect of heat. 4. The artificial fur according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the thermal binding is performed by means of both the yarn (1a) of the base knitted fabric (1) and the staple fibres (3) mixed to the base knitted fabric. 5. The artificial fur according to claim 1, characterized in that the thermal binding is performed by means of an additional layer (2) placed on the reverse side of the base knitted fabric (1), comprising plastic material, softened and/or melted by the effect of heat, lying against the base knitted fabric (1). 6. The artificial fur according to claim 5, characterized in that also the yarn (1a) of the base knitted fabric (1) and/or the staple fibres (3) mixed to the base knitted fabric contain plastic material softened and/or melted by the effect of heat. 7. The artificial fur according to claim 2 or 4, characterized in that the staple fibres (3) mixed to the base knitted fabric (1) contain binding fibre whose component forms a plastic material softened and/or melted by the effect of heat. 8. The artificial fur according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the yarn (1a) of the base knitted fabric (1) comprises a binding fibre whose component forms a plastic material softened and/or melted by the effect of heat. 9. The artificial fur according to claim 2,3,4,6,7, or 8, characterized in that the staple fibres (3) mixed to the base knitted fabric, or the base knitted fabric (1), comprise also other fibre material in addition to the fibres containing plastic material softened/melted by the effect of heat. 10. A method for manufacturing an artificial fur according to any of the claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the thermal treatment is made by conduction heat. 11. The method according to claim 10, characterized in that the thermal treatment is made by passing the base knitted fabric (1), and an additional layer (2) possibly fixed on its reverse side, over a heated surface. 12. The method for manufacturing the artificial fur according to any of the claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the thermal treatment is made by convection heat. 13. The method for manufacturing the artificial fur according to any of the claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the thermal treatment is made by radiation heat. 14. The method according to any of the preceding claims 10 to 13, characterized in that in addition to the thermal treatment, also pressure is used in the fixing.

Description

The invention relates to artificial fur, as described in the introductory part of the attached paragraph 1. The discovery also relates to a method for producing faux fur. The following is a description of the use of faux fur and known methods for its production and structure.

Using faux fur

Faux fur is a knitted woolen fabric. It is a soft, voluminous, lightweight and heat insulating product. Traditionally, synthetic fur (with long or silver nap) is used in the lining of street clothes and shoes. Technical applications include upholstery for furniture, technical products used in hospitals, polishing wheels and paint rollers. With an increase in the basic weight of knitted wool fabric, it can be used both for the production of suede fur coats in which the pile is directed inward, and for the production of artificial fur coats in which the pile is directed outward. Since the outer surface of suede fur coats is a smooth knit, it can be painted in various colors.

Faux fur production

The mechanical bonding of fibrous material in the manufacture of faux fur is carried out directly in the knitting machine. In practice, faux fur is produced in a single cylinder circular knitting machine. The main knitting yarn is passed through the knitting reed needles of the cylinder, into which a strand consisting of staple fibers is also fed. The staple threads adhere to the spool of the valjana, which combs the threads in the desired direction and delivers them to the needles of the knitting machine, which rise to receive the threads from the spool. In order to ensure the holding of threads on the hooks of the needles, as well as their orientation, air is blown through a narrow slot to the loading point towards the center of the cylinder of the circular knitting machine. When the needles begin to sink with bunches of staple threads attached to them, loop yarn, which actually forms the knitted fabric, is fed to the needles. After the needles have lowered through the loops of the previous row, the loop yarn is attached to the staple bundles by smooth knitting so that a coating similar to fur is formed. The knitting step for obtaining faux fur is described in detail in European patent 0 091 025 and international publication \ UO 95/25191.

Further, Patent Publication No. 122 558 discloses a method for producing a textile product similar to fur, in which the textile-technical connection between the fibrous material constituting the pile and the main knitted fabric is achieved using sewing technology (German ΝαΙίλνίιΌοοΙιηίΙχ.

IakMgkey), which differs from the methods for producing faux fur carried out in knitting machines. In this case, the pile is made of sewing threads by means of needles passing through the base material and forming protruding loops on the other side of the base material that can be cut. The second textile layer is attached (for example, using a heated film) to the yarn on the back of the warp material, consisting of knitted fabric, after which the fabric can be peeled in the direction of the pile fibers, and the pile fibers formed from the above-described sewing threads remain attached to the film on the outside of the product.

The textile products made using the above-described sewing technology are also described in the publication of application No. 1 938 970. Before sewing, a second non-knitted fabric or film of thermoplastic material is placed on top of the warp material and the threads are passed through the resulting layered structure. When the warp material is heated, the thermoplastic material of the additional layer melts and better binds the pile consisting of sewing threads to the warp material.

When faux fur is produced in a knitting machine, the pile formed from staple yarns is mechanically attached at the knitting stage, so the bond is not strong. For this reason, staple fibers are attached to the knitted base fabric in accordance with the previously described production technology in a knitting machine by adding a substance that fixes the pile with the fabric.

When bonding artificial fur, a dispersed liquid adhesive is usually used, consisting of a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed polymer phase, which can be either solid or liquid. When applied, the adhesive will also partially penetrate the structure. Usually, the faux fur pile is glued with latex, in which polyvinyl acetate (PVA), which acts as a binder, is dispersed in the aqueous phase. Other binders can be used, for example, polyolefins (PO) copolymers of polyamide (PA), polyesters (for example, sORET) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC). The adhesive may also be a paste in which a large amount of a powdered copolymer of ethyl vinyl acetate (EVA), polyethylene (PE) or copolyamide (coPA) is mixed in the aqueous phase. Bicomponent adhesives, such as urethane adhesives, in which the components are isocyanate and polyol, are also used. Also, these adhesives are well flowing, liquid and they penetrate the structure.

The stabilized latex or paste is applied to a flat surface of faux fur, for example, by applying foamed adhesive with a wiping blade. The penetration of the adhesive into the structure of the tissue is controlled by surfactants. After that, the artificial fur is sent to the frame, in which the adhesive words are thermally fixed. The flat surface of the glued faux fur is hard to touch due to the rigidity of the fixed polyvinyl acetate layer.

In addition, US Pat. No. 4,236,286 teaches the binding of pile to knitted fabric using a thermally hardened coating.

If a suede fur coat is made of fleece, its glued smooth surface can be painted. Paint is applied to the smooth surface of faux fur, after which the binder is thermally fixed in the frame. Pigment paints together with binders create a feeling of rigidity.

The bonding step requires separate devices for processing liquid dispersion adhesives, such as devices for preparing a dispensable adhesive and devices for dispensing an adhesive. Moreover, the adhesive has a harmful effect on the structure of faux fur, for example, its touch quality is violated.

The aim of the present invention is to improve the above-described negative aspects, as well as the introduction of faux fur, which has a better structure and is suitable for different purposes as well or better than previously manufactured structures, and which is also easier to produce. To achieve this goal, faux fur, mainly differs in that it will be presented in the characterizing part of the attached claim 1 of the claims. By using plastic to fix, which melts or softens under the influence of temperature and which may be a fibrous structural element of artificial fur (in staple fiber or yarn) or a layer or part of a layer added on its back side, it becomes possible to provide artificial fur with properties that are closer to its fibrous structure, without the addition of other adhesives and similar substances. At the same time, adhesive devices are not used and can be replaced by heating devices that are less complex.

In view of other preferred embodiments of the discovery, reference is made to the accompanying dependent claims and the following description.

The opening will now be described with reference to the accompanying graphs, in which in FIG. 1 shows a flowchart of a method for producing a fleecy structure in accordance with the opening, FIG. 2 schematically depicts the production step of a fleecy structure; FIG. 3 shows a knitted warp fabric on a plane and a cross section of the finished faux fur; FIG. 4 depicts the structure of faux fur in detail, and FIG. 5-10 show the results of the opening test.

In accordance with the block diagram of FIG. 1 process consists of the following stages: A) loading the yarn of the main knitted fabric and staple threads forming a pile; B) the formation of a pile by mechanically securing staple fibers to a knitted base fabric during its manufacture; C) cutting the outer surface of the pile finally to the required length and possible mechanical processing of the pile; D) heat treatment to fix the pile with a knitted base fabric; D) further processing.

In FIG. 2 shows an example of the manufacture of faux fur. Knitted warp fabric is made by loading warp yarns 1a into knitting reed needles of a knitting machine 4, into which staple fibers 3 from a spool 5 are also placed to form a pile. This stage has been described in more detail above under the heading "Production of faux fur", and the technology related to it is described in European patent 0 091 025 and publication No. O 95/25191.

Faux Fur Structures

The following terms will be used in this context:

Fibrous material: staple fiber or thread. Also, fibrous material is considered to contain microfibers, which have become common in the textile industry. In accordance with the definition established in Europe, microfibers are considered fibers with a diameter of less than 1 denier, but in other places an upper limit of 0.7 denier is set.

Staple fiber: a fibrous material (staple) consisting of several interrupted threads with a specific, limited length or length distribution, also including fibers with a microfiber class thickness.

Filament: continuous fiber as opposed to staple fiber, also including fibers with a microfiber class thickness.

Yarn: yarn formed from staple fibers or one or more threads.

In FIG. 3 shows the structure of faux fur. The back side of the knitted fabric of warp 1 is shown on the left, and faux fur is shown in the cross section on the right, made in the direction of the rib of the warp knitting perpendicular to the plane of the faux fur. The pile-binding structure is knitted fabric of a base 1, consisting of a yarn 1a of a certain length loaded into the needles of a knitting machine. In the figure, the yarn extends from successive rows of planar knitting. The staple fibers 3 protrude from the level of the main knitted fabric and originate from bundles of fibers tucked into the hooks of the needles of the knitting machine, whose free ends are oriented towards the front of the main knitted fabric 1, forming a more or less dense pile depending on the loading density staple fibers 3. Bundles of fibers are attached to the knitted base fabric in the form of bends passing along with the loops, always tied with the next loop to form loops, and both ends are always ejected removed through the previous loop at the back side of the knitted fabric. The initial pile length, i.e. the largest possible distance of the front surface of the artificial fur from the knitted fabric of the base 1, as expected, depends on the length of the staple fibers 3. The pile is sheared to the required length, usually by cutting off the ends of the staple fibers, which results in a relatively flat outer surface of the pile 3 a, as this is shown in FIG. 3. Together with the haircut, staple fibers can still be oriented in the desired direction, for example more vertically. There are also other methods for machining the pile, which can be applied to achieve the necessary structure and appearance of the pile.

Further, in FIG. 3, the dashed line shows an additional layer 2, which can be attached to the other side of the knitted fabric of the base 1, i.e. to the back of faux fur. The possibilities of forming an additional layer 2 will be discussed below. The pile formed by staple fibers 3 is finally fixed to the knitted fabric of the base 1 using plastic, which can be melted or softened when heated; namely, the structure of FIG. 3 contains plastic which, after heat treatment, has been melted or softened at the point where the staple fibers 3 come into contact with the knitted fabric of warp 1 to such an extent that the staple fibers adhere to the yarn 1a of the knitted fabric of warp 1 using plastic that has melted / softened and hardened again after lowering the temperature. In FIG. 4 shows a cross-section of faux fur along the line 1U-1U in FIG. 3, i.e. in the direction perpendicular to the scars, and such a bonding plastic present at the contact points of staple fibers and yarn is indicated by reference B. Material region B may consist of plastic on staple fibers 3, plastic or yarn 1b of knitted base fabric 1 or of amalgamated plastic in both places. Accordingly, the material region may be the surface material of the additive layer 2, which is located opposite the yarn 1a of the knitted warp fabric and staple fibers 3 at the contact point.

A bonding fiber, or part of a bonding fiber, or thermoplastics, can be made from the molten plastic, used as conventional structural elements of textile products, which can be in the form of fibers or structures covering a large area, such as films.

Binding Fibers

When thermally bonding plastic is selected, the maximum temperatures prevailing under the conditions of use and content of the product must be taken into account. Most often, the main polymers for thermally bonding fibers are polyesters or polyamides. The softening and melting points of some polymers are given below:

polyvinyl chloride / pvc Tr _azm = 115-160 ° C; T _PL = 160-180 ° C polyamide / PA Trazm ⁼ 170-190 ° C; T _pl = 210-230 ° C polyester / PEF T _1XB m = 230-240 ° C; _Mp = 245-260 ° C polypropylene / PP Traz _M = 150 ° C; T _PL = 160-170 ° C polyethylene / PE Trazm. = 85-90 ° C; Mp = 115 ° C

It follows, on the basis of temperature characteristics, that polyvinyl chloride and polyolefins (polypropylene and polyethylene), including copolymers based on them, are suitable bonding fibers. However, the melting points of polyolefins, especially polyethylene, may be too low for some conditions of use and care.

In the case of polyamides and polyesters, the melting point is reduced through the use of comonomers (copolyamides and copolyesters), whereby binding fibers are obtained.

In order for thermally bonding fibers to stick firmly to the product that needs to be fixed (for example, to knitted or woven fabric), the chemical structure of both of them should be similar. If this basic rule is followed, then adhesion problems do not arise. If the raw material for the production of the main product is polyester (for example, dacron or trevira), the selected thermally bonding fibers should be made of copolyester, not polyolefin or polyamide. Thus, a sufficient thermal bond between the fibers of different layers of the material is ensured. If the chemical structures of the bonding fiber and the base layer are different, then use

Оваться Use a compatibilizer to join substances together.

Binding fibers, which are fixed by heat and pressure, can be divided into 3 different classes, namely adhesive fibers, meltable adhesive fibers and two-component fibers.

Adhesive fibers are usually molten-twisted amorphous polyesters. Due to the absence of crystalline regions, the surface of these polymers softens when the temperature rises above 100 ° C for the first time, and at the same time they can be smoothed to the base material by pressure.

The melting point of the molten adhesive fibers should be lower than the melting point of the base material to which they adhere under the influence of heat. Usually this temperature difference is large enough, 50-100 ° C, to avoid damage to the base material. In this case, the melting point is usually below 205 ° C, and preferably less than 180 ° C. To obtain the necessary softening and melting points, the chemical structure of the base polymer can be synthetically modified (copolymerization). Such meltable adhesive fibers are usually copolyesters and copolyamides. It is also possible to use homopolymers such as the aforementioned PVC, PP and PE. In a bicomponent fiber used as a bonding fiber, two components with different chemical structures (e.g. PEF and PE) are combined or whose melting points are different. As an example, we can give a two-component polyester fiber, one of the regions of which, used as a binding agent, melts at low temperatures of 100-110 ° С, and the other region melts at a high temperature of 250-265 ° С.

The aforementioned bonding fibers are available in the form of staple fibers or filaments, and these types of fibers can also be used to make yarn, which may also contain a mixture of different fibers.

Product Alternatives

Next, some alternatives will be presented to obtain the above finally fixed structure. In subsequent structures, plastic that melts or softens when exposed to heat is present in at least one of the following parts of faux fur: staple fibers 3 forming a pile, knitted warp fabric 1, and additional layer 2. In the following alternatives, the word “melted” "Is used to denote both melting and softening polymers, the temperature of which rises under the influence of an external energy source so that the aforementioned phenomenon and the material goes into an adhesive state. There is always a change in the state of the material or surface properties upon transition from a solid state to a state in which the parts are attached to each other.

A) The molten bonding fibers are mixed with staple fibers 3 to form a pile. The content of binding fibers can vary from 0 to 100%. The case of 0% binding fibers is an alternative to G, described below.

B) The molten bonding threads or yarn is combined with the yarn 1a of the knitted fabric of the warp 1 by multiplication, duplication, double duplication or other textile technique.

B) Combining alternatives A and B, i.e. staple fibers 3 contain meltable bonding fibers and yarn of knitted fabric warp 1 contains meltable bonding threads or yarn.

In the preceding products A, B and C, the binding plastic component, i.e. the binding fiber and / or the binding thread or yarn, is melted or softened by heat conduction, convection or heat radiation, and possibly by pressure. If necessary, combinations of various melting or softening methods can be used. From the structures of products A, B and C, it is possible to produce faux fur with pile on both sides of the product. The pile is first mechanically bonded to one side of the knitted base fabric, after which part of the pile is processed by the so-called raking process to be pulled through the knitted base fabric to the opposite side. When raking (in Waiii in German), movable stretching devices are used to pull yarns from textile material, i.e., in this case, pile fibers from the opposite side to the other side of the knitted warp fabric.

D) Not at all melting binding fibers is mixed with staple fibers 3, forming a pile. In faux fur, staple fibers 3 of pile, or yarn 1a of knitted fabric of warp 1, or both are made of thermoplastics used as ordinary structural elements of textile fabrics, which in terms of chemical structure are molten polyolefins, polyvinyls, polystyrenes, polyacrylonitriles, polyacrylates, melted derivatives of cellulosic polymers, polyesters and polycarbonates, polysulfones, polyimides, polyester oxides (for example, polyacetals, polyketones, polyurethanes, polyfluorides), thermoplastic elastomers (such as thermoplastics containing dienes), elastomeric copolymers (such as elastomers containing butadiene, elastomers containing ethylene or propylene, fluoroelastomers, silicon elastomers) or various chemical combinations of polymers or mixtures of any of the above substances in the form of material, fibers, threads or yarn. Pile, knitted base fabric, or both, depending on the material, is melted by conducting, convection, or radiating heat and, possibly, pressure. The temperature should exceed the melting point of thermoplastic and the effect should be long enough, but at the same time short enough. If necessary, combinations of different melting methods can be used. Pile and knitted base fabric are bonded to each other by melting.

E) The main product, which is faux fur, with a pile on one side of the knitted fabric of the base 1, without the admixture of the melting bonding fibers in the staple fibers 3 forming the pile. Smooth side i.e. the reverse side of the artificial fur is covered with an additional layer of film 2 containing thermoplastic, at least on its surface. As the material, one of the materials mentioned above in alternative D or various chemical combinations of polymers or mixtures can be used. The film can be completely made of the same thermoplastic, or it can have a uniform surface layer of thermoplastic melting at low temperature, or it can have a surface with an adhesive network of fiber thermoplastic or a structure with sticky spots whose melting point is lower than that of the film itself . Layer 2 is melted onto the knitted fabric of warp 1 by conducting, convection, or heat radiation and possibly pressure. The film may have special properties, such as breathability, in addition to protecting against wind and rain. If necessary, combinations of different melting methods can be used. The film can also be made of a material different from thermoplastic, if it has any of the above thermoplastic structures on the surface adjacent to the knitted fabric of the base 1. The additional layer 2 can also be represented by felt containing thermoplastic, at least surface, as well as felt, consisting of binding fibers or a mixture of binding fibers.

E) An alternative to option A, in which the film or felt is laminated to the back of the faux fur using the materials and options from the previous alternative D. Attaching to the knitted fabric of the base 1 is carried out using the methods described in alternative D.

G) An alternative to option B, in which the additional layer 2 is laminated to smooth, i.e.

the back of the faux fur, using materials and options from alternative D. Layer 2 is attached to the knitted fabric of the base using the methods described in alternative D.

H) An alternative to option B, in which a film or felt in the form of an additional layer 2 is laminated to the smooth, i.e. back side of faux fur, using materials and options from the previous alternative D. Binding component, i.e. pile and thread fibers or yarn of knitted base fabric and layer 2, is attached using the methods described in alternative D.

I) A modified product whose structure can correspond to options A, B, C, D, D, E, F or Z, in which two artificial furs with a pile on one side of their knitted fabrics of warp 1 are laminated to each other through an additional layer 2, resulting in a fur with a pile on both sides of the product. The structures of the additive layer and thermoplastic materials may correspond to those mentioned above.

Advantageously, when a heat-fixed fibrous material is used in a pile or in a knitted warp fabric, part of the material is made of meltable / softened plastic and the other part does not change under the conditions in which the fastening is carried out. These various materials can be combined in one fiber (bicomponent fibers) or be in different fibers; in the latter case, mixtures of fibers in a pile and / or knitted base fabric are used.

The fiber mixture may contain thermally bonding fibers and synthetic fibers whose properties do not change under the conditions in which the bonding is carried out, for example high melting thermoplastic fibers. Staple fibers 3 of the pile or knitted fabric of the base 1 may contain natural fibers (from 0 to 100%) as other materials in addition to thermoplastics in the pile or in the knitted fabric of the base (cotton, linen, hare tail fur, wool, etc. ) and thermoplastics, such as thermoplastic coatings, applied after thermal bonding of the pile (spraying a polyurethane bonding agent containing colored pigments). In addition to the aforementioned one-sided structures, it is also possible to laminate or adhere in another way (for example, glue) a fabricated or non-fabricated, natural or synthetic, woven or knitted fabric, or non-woven fabric, or a flat (xy-plane) component of textile technology or technology plastics. All faux fur components can be dyed or patterned using known dyeing or graphic printing methods.

When the pile is thermally attached to a knitted warp, the product feels like cloth to the touch. At the same time, the pile is fixed to the knitted base fabric by melting, and not mechanically, i.e., the artificial fur pile is not lost when used, and the artificial fur retains its important functional properties, such as thermal insulation. Thermal insulating ability (K. _s ) of artificial fur is not less than 0.10 1 <* ιη ² / \ ν or better (B8 4745: 1990).

Thermal Fixation Process of Melting Binding Fibers

The thermal fixation process must be correctly selected to achieve a strong bonding of the bonding fibers. The molten bonding fibers are attached to each other, mainly at the intersection points of the contacts present in the adhesive material and / or between the adhesive and base materials. During thermal fixation, the following factors must be considered:

the principle of the melting process: conducting, convection and radiation, the principle of operation of the melting device: by heating or by heating and pressure, calibration unit: calibration of the size of the final product, cooling unit: cooling of the melting bonding fibers and the chemical structure of the bonding fibers, the content and number of different components: properties of the final product, such as sensation and strength.

If the melting process is based on convection, and more specifically a gaseous medium (usually hot air) is used, the air stream can pass through the product or blow around the surface of the product. The first method is usually used in the production of thick, porous, non-woven fabrics, since in this case internal fibers can also be heated. When air passes through the fabric, a triple effect is achieved, but this advantage is lost when the air permeability of the product is reduced. In the best case, one- or two-sided blowing of the surface with hot air is suitable for thermal fixation of the fibers of the faux fur pile. With an increase in the content of binding fibers with respect to the main material in the mixture of staple fibers, the bond strength increases, although at the cost of a deterioration of the product's properties to the touch. When the content of binding fibers is too high, the final product becomes brittle and tough. Greater strength is achieved when using bicomponent fibers compared to single-component adhesive fibers, despite the same bulk content.

The final result also depends on the number of contacts between the bonding fibers, as well as on the possible use of a compressive load.

The fibers of the faux fur pile are fixed so that the length of the pile (protruding above the level of the knitted base fabric) is 1-50 mm. The length of the pile depends on the length of the loaded staple fibers and on the settings at the stage of cutting the pile. The staple fibers containing the melting / softening plastic are in the combing tape forming the pile and / or the threads or yarns containing the melting / softening plastic are sent to the knitting machine along with the looping yarn.

Other possible methods for thermally fixing the main product (i.e., faux fur) include adjusting the additional layer 2 on the reverse side using the following methods:

a technique for laminating plastic sheets that create a barrier to moisture and air, impregnating or melt coating the smooth side of knitting faux fur with molten plastic (for example, a modification of the paper coating method), in which the molten thermoplastic forms a uniform film upon hardening, which also creates a barrier to moisture and air, dry impregnation of a smooth surface of knitting faux fur with plastic powder and thermal curing in an oven or calender, in which also a bonding film is formed.

As a basic rule, it should be postulated that the melting component must be present both in the fibers of the pile 3 and the looping threads 1a of the knitted fabric of the base of the artificial fur to achieve a strong attachment of these elements to each other. To achieve the objective of the invention, the presence of a melting component in one of these elements is sufficient. If the melting component is contained in only one of these elements, then it is advantageous to use another melting component in the additional layer 2. In the event that the melting component is absent in both elements, the additional layer 2 is necessary to achieve thermal fixation.

Advantages of fusing over bonding

When using melting / softening fibers and thermal bonding in the manufacture of faux fur compared to traditional adhesives, etc. (compounding with chemical binders) the following advantages are achieved.

Achieving a softer, touch-like fabric of the final product.

The final product can be almost completely (100%) reused, since the chemical structure of the binding fibers can be the same as for knitted warp or woven fabric.

Energy saving due to the lack of evaporation of water. For the melting of the bonding fibers, only 1 / 4-1 / 6 of the heating energy is needed when compared with an adhesive compound.

No binding agents or thermal fixation is necessary. The production process is safe for the environment, since there is no wastewater and exhaust.

By choosing bonding fibers, it is possible to influence the properties of the final product, for example, flexibility and refractoriness.

Examples of embodiment of the invention

The invention will be discussed in the following examples, which are not limiting.

Thermal Binding Tests

The melting fiber was added to the pile or knitted fabric of the base of faux fur. In the first case, melting staple fibers (from 15 to 50 wt.%) Were mixed in a carding tape forming a pile, and in the second case, the threads were sent to a knitting machine along with loop forming yarn (multiplication or duplication). First, the tests were carried out under carefully controlled conditions in the laboratory, and then on an industrial scale. In the tests, the processing time and temperature were calculated theoretically in order to reduce the number of practical tests to a minimum.

Bonding of the pile of the main product, i.e., faux fur, was determined in three different ways:

1. Martindale method, 8P8 4328 (Fabrics. Determination of the resistance of tissues to abrasion. Martindale method):

determination of product weight loss after exercise;

quality way.

2. Pilling method, 8P8 3378 (Fabrics. Determination of tissue resistance to pilling):

determination of product weight loss after exercise;

quality way.

3. Test the strength of the pile tensile, modified 8P8 3189 (Textile floor coverings. Determination of the force required to remove the pile):

measuring the force necessary to remove the fibers of the pile from the base fabric (in Newtons);

obtaining normalized results by dividing the force (N) necessary to remove the fibers of the pile, by their mass (mg);

quantitative method.

Untreated, i.e. non-glued and glued faux fur were used for comparison.

An example of embodiment 1. The melting fibers in the pile of faux fur, fixed in the installation with hot air.

Faux fur was produced in a single cylinder circular knitting machine. Part of the commercial polyester Eaegop T688 (ΌιιΡοπΙ) was replaced with commercial melting fibers 11 11 оп оп б ТО 10 109 (е (ш ш 1 1 1 ег 1 1 б б)). used as a pile. Ve11bbO109 is a two-component polyester fiber (coPEF / PEF), the surface of which melts at a low temperature> 110 ° C, and the core at a high temperature of 255 ° C. In thermal bonding tests, the main sample was T351 artificial fur with the following structure:

knitted fabric warp

PEF 167 / 32x1 esgi pile 100 wt.%

Infusions T688 (PEF) 4.7 / 35 50 wt.% \\ e11bop TO 109 (coPEF / PEF) 5.3 / 55 50 wt.% Only 100 wt.%

The melting fibers were fixed to the polyester fibers of a knitted warp fabric in a permanent Ernst Benz laboratory setup. At the final setting of the process parameters, the product properties were optimized in such a way that sufficient touch quality and sufficient strengthening of the pile fibers were achieved. The artificial fur containing the melting fibers of the pile was heated in a Benz laboratory continuous furnace, in which the upper valve (K1arre) is open (ai £) and the lower valve (K1arre) is closed (ζυ). Valid test series used three delay times.

The base weight of the faux fur was 240 g / m ² . At an initial room temperature of 20 ° C, the temperatures and processing time in a series of tests (REAME) are given in table. one.

Table 1

Values of air temperature and processing time in the series of tests REAME

Obra- zets Air temperature (real value), ° С Sample temperature (target), ° С Processing time (real value), s Frame 1 160 155 120 Frame 2 180 160 70 Frame 3 200 160 fifty

The sample is placed in the bracket with the hair side down. Further, the artificial fur should be stretched in the bracket of the frame sample so that it is subjected to tensile stress. The teaset side of the frame is protected by a heat-resistant material, for example, an aluminum-coated sheet. The reverse side was heated by air, i.e. side of knitted fabric base. The test result is shown in FIG. 5. The first number after the product code T351 shows the processing temperature, and the second - the processing time. The pilling test curves show that the adhesion of the faux fur pile to the knitted warp fabric increases with heat treatment, but at the same time, the faux fur becomes tougher to the touch.

An example of embodiment 2. Melting fibers in the pile of faux fur, fixed by a hot metal surface.

Faux fur was produced in a single cylinder circular knitting machine. Part of the commercial polyester Esgop T688 (ΌιιΡοπΙ) was replaced by commercial melting fibers \ Ue11bop TO109 (\ Ue11shap 1p1etpaiopa1y). used as a pile. \ U11bopy TO109 is a two-component polyester fiber (coPEF / PEF), the surface of which melts at a low temperature> 110 ° C, and the core at a high temperature of 255 ° C. In thermal bonding tests, the main sample was T351 faux fur with the following structure: knitted warp

PEF 167 / 32x1 esgi 100 wt.% Pile

Paste T688 (PEF) 4.7 / 35 50 wt.% \\ e11bopy TO109 (coPEF / PEF) 5.3 / 55 50 wt.% Only 100 wt.%

The melting fibers contained in the artificial fur were heated using a metal surface. For this purpose, a device with two electrically heated plates was used (for example, P1x1e81). At the final setting of the process parameters, the product properties were optimized in such a way that sufficient touch quality and sufficient strengthening of the pile fibers were achieved. Faux fur, containing melting pile fibers, having a bulk of 240 g / m ² , was heated by a central pair of plates of the P1x1e81 device. Only the upper plate was heated to a regulated temperature (Table 2). The bottom plate switch was in position 0, at which the plate did not heat up. When the surface of the knitted base fabric was subjected to a sudden change in temperature, heat was conducted to the solid material (conduct) instantly and one-dimensionally. A sudden increase in the initial stage of the moment the temperature affects the surface of the solid material can be calculated to a specified depth where there has not yet been enough time to conduct heat to the interior of the piece.

In the actual test series, three processing times were used (indicated by subscripts 1, 2, and 3); at the same time, it was assumed that the amount of air contained in the artificial fur (porosity) was 20%. The temperatures and processing times in the test series (ΡΙΧΟ) are given in table. 2.

table 2

The value of the delay time, depending on the temperature of the hot metal surface in the test series ΡΙΧΟ

Obra- zets The temperature of the metal surface, ° C Target temperature sample T (0.5, 1), ° С Sample heating time, 1 s P1ho 1 160 155 899 = 15 min P1ho 2 180 160 71 P1ho 3 200 160 22

The sample is placed in the device P1ho1e81 with the pile side down, so that the knitted fabric of the base of the artificial fur is opposite the hot metal surface. The hot metal surface melts the melting fibers contained in the pile for attaching to the knitted fabric of the base during the calculated exposure time. Pile of faux fur alone should not melt under any circumstances, since this spoils the main part of the product and its quality to the touch. The central upper plate of the P1x1e81 device is rotated opposite the lower plate, leaving a sample between them. The sample is subjected to a nominal compression load.

P = P / A (1), where P = t * d = the force with which the upper plate acts;

t = plate weight (1 kg);

d = acceleration of gravity (9.81 m / s ² );

A = plate surface area (0.05 * 0.11 m ² = 0.0055 m ² ).

A sample of artificial fur, freely located between the plates of the device P1ho1e81, is subjected to a pressure of 1.8 kPa.

The test result is shown in FIG. 6. The first number after the product code T351 shows the processing temperature, and the second - the processing time. By using a hot metal surface, a pile containing melting fibers can be attached to a knitted warp fabric better than by means of hot air. When the temperature of the metal surface exceeds the melting point of the binder fibers, in practice the pile does not come out of the knitted base fabric.

An example of embodiment 3. The melting fibers in the pile of faux fur, fixed in the installation with hot air.

The melting bonding fibers can be combined with a faux-fur pile or knitted warp fabric. In the first case, melting staple fibers were added to the carding tape (50 wt.%), After which they were melted in the frame (with a hot air stream). Using this method, the binding strength of the pile and knitted base fabric was the same as when using cross adhesive.

In the latter case, the polyester thread (PEF 167132x2) of the main yarn of the knitted warp fabric was duplicated with a two-component multifilament yarn (coPEF / PEF 278116), in which the surface of single fibers is made of PEF with a low melting point (160205 ° C), and the core is made of traditional PEF (250-260 ° C).

The data on the joined threads are given below:

I PEF 167132x2 fineness: 167 b1ex yarn diameter: 124 microns

II KapeLo coPEF / PEF 278116 fineness: 278 b1ex yarn diameter: 160 microns

The first thread is the yarn of knitted fabric of the basis of faux fur, and the last is a melting two-component thread. Based on the linear densities of the components, the content of the melting fiber in the paired yarn is

62.5 vol.%.

These yarns were combined in a ring duplicating machine with a flat filament (for example, Ζ80). After that, the yarn obtained was distributed into 12 spools using a flange winding machine, and then faux fur was produced in a single-cylinder circular knitting machine as described above.

Faux fur, indicated by the code T416, has the following structure:

knitted warp fabric (167 b1ech + 278 Λοχ) Ζ50 = 650 b1ekh

PEF 167132x2 + coPEF / PEF 278116 pile

PEF Tteup T290.3.3 b1ex. 28 mm

The artificial fur containing the melting fibers of the pile is heated in a permanent Benz laboratory furnace, in which the upper valve (K1arre) is open (a11) and the lower valve (K1arre) is closed (ζυ). The actual test series used three processing times. The surface density of faux fur was 320 g / m ² .

The temperatures and processing time in a series of tests (REAME 2) are given in table. 3.

Table 3

Values of air temperature and processing time in the series of tests REAME 2

Obra- zets Air temperature, υ ₁ (real value), ° С Sample temperature, υ (target), ° С Processing time, 1z (real value), s Frame 1/2 160 155 145 Frame 2/2 180 160 90 Frame 3/2 200 160 65

The sample is placed in the bracket with the pile side down (in order to be subjected to a stream of hot air). Faux fur should also be stretched in the bracket of the frame sample so that it is subjected to tensile stress. The teaset side of the sample is protected by a heat-resistant material, for example, an aluminum-coated sheet.

The test result is shown in FIG. 7. The first number after the product code T416 shows the processing temperature, and the second - the processing time. The fixing of the faux fur pile is improved by heat treatment. Apparently, the melting fibers have a better effect in the pile (Fig. 5) than in the knitted warp fabric (Fig. 7). When the melting fibers are in the knitted base fabric, the pile remains soft to the touch, despite the heat treatment.

An example of embodiment 4. Fixing the pile of faux fur with a plastic film.

Faux fur was produced in a single cylinder circular knitting machine. The faux fur designated by the T513 code has the following structure:

faux fur structure (without melting fibers in the pile):

knitted fabric: PEF 167 / 32x2 100% pile: Iastoi T688 (35 mm) 35%, 8 mm Ithaki BET (28 mm) 65%, 8 mm

Pile consists of a mixture of polyacryl ItaOi BET 3.3 / 28 (Vaueg) and Iastoi T688 4.7 / 35 polyester (IIPoi1), that is, it does not contain a component that melts at processing temperatures. Non-glued faux fur was covered with a breathable plastic coating that protected from wind and rain. Pile faux fur was attached to a knitted warp fabric using a plastic film. A thermoplastic film was laminated to a knitted fabric base of faux fur. Films with the following properties were used in the test:

I Rogue11e 55 (Rotuai PBS) polyester urethane perforated film average hole diameter (0): 1 μm film thickness: 55 ± 5 μm opaque, white film hydrostatic pressure resistance (B8 3424 method 29C): 700 cm H ₂ O / min = 0.69 bar water vapor permeability (A8TM E96 V): 650 750 g / (m ² * d)

II 8utLa1eh (Epka) polyester hydrophilic film film thickness: 10 μm transparent, colorless film resistance to hydrostatic pressure:> 1 bar water vapor permeability:> 2500 g / (m ² * th)

III PeLaEx (EH Aloxet) polyester amide hydrophilic film film thickness: 15 μm transparent, colorless film resistance to hydrostatic pressure (ΌΓΝ 53 886):> 1 bar water vapor permeability (А8ТМ Е96 В):> 25000 g / (m ² * th )

The films were fixed to knitted fabric of the base of faux fur using an adhesive press (Meueg KE600), in which the product was passed between two heated rubber bands. At the beginning of the line, the film was heated above the melting temperature, and at the end of the film was fixed by pressing to the surface of the fabric. The film was melted on the surface of faux fur.

Three samples were made. The lower material of the samples was artificial fur, to which a film was thermally attached, impermeable to water in a liquid state, but permeable to water vapor. If necessary, a thin adhesive mesh of polyurethane was used. Adhesive mesh data is shown below:

producer: Arryey Exhiyop Tes11po1oshche5 b1y. (England) product name: 811at1 8N 151 material: polyurethane melting range (E8C measurement): 110-145 ° С; lamination temperature range: 150-179 ° С.

The second adhesive mesh used was 811at1 8H 2402 of polyamide. The processing conditions are given in table. 4. An adhesive mesh was used together with hydrophilic films, i.e. samples 2 and 3. The Roge11e films (sample 1) contain densely distributed points of the melting plastic, which binds them to the coated product.

Table 4

Values of air temperature, processing time and compressive load in a series of tests

Film Temperature, upper belt (control value), ° С Processing time (real value), s Compressive load on the sample (control value), N / cm ² Sample 1 / RogePe 55 / no adhesive mesh 140 22 nine Sample 2/8 UTLAEX / Adhesive net: 8YAGPE1 8H 151 160 22 nine Sample 3 / PeLaex / adhesive film: 8Iagpe1 8H 2402 160 22 nine

When the plastic film is laminated to faux fur, the non-glued fibers of the pile are fixed to the knitted base fabric. This is apparent from FIG. 8, which shows the effect of a laminated plastic film on fixing a pile when the faux fur does not contain melting bonding fibers. Samples for comparison are non-glued faux fur T351 and T513. The best specimen was obtained by laminating with a SbLa1ex film. Lamination of a plastic film completely replaces the attachment of faux fur; at the same time, a waterproof and airtight product is obtained.

Using a breathable plastic film that protects from wind and rain, the artificial fur can be made impervious, for example, to the flow of air or water (Fig. 9 and 10). In FIG. 9 shows the effect of laminated plastic film on the permeability of faux fur T513 for air, and FIG. 10 shows the effect of a laminated plastic film on hydrostatic pressure resistance. Based on the measurement results, we can conclude that only the abrasion resistance of laminated samples is obviously worse than that of glued faux fur. The resistance to wear of laminated samples can be improved by coating the plastic film with a very thin knitted or woven fabric or fabric. It also makes it possible to design the surface of faux fur with any pattern. Moreover, this product completely resembles to the touch fabric, i.e. its perception is better than artificial bellows fixed with an adhesive emulsion.

Laminated samples are non-breathable. Their water vapor permeability is the same as that of T513 uncoated faux fur. In addition, laminated faux furs are airtight because they do not actually allow air to pass through. The resistance of the laminated products to hydrostatic pressure exceeds 10 m. The corresponding value for glued artificial furs is only 1-5 cm. The best product obtained in all series was artificial fur coated with 8xLa1ex film.

Claims (14)

1. Faux fur, staple fibers (3) which are mechanically connected to the yarn formed (1a) by the knitted warp fabric (1) to protrude above the surface of the knitted warp fabric (1) and form a pile on the outer surface of the faux fur, characterized in that the staple the fibers (3) connected to the knitted base fabric (1) are attached to the knitted base fabric (1) by thermal bonding by means of plastic, softened and / or molten by heat. 2. Faux fur according to claim 1, characterized in that the thermal bonding is carried out using staple fibers (3) connected to a knitted base fabric (1), which includes plastic, softened and / or melted when heated. 3. Faux fur according to claim 1, characterized in that the thermal bonding is carried out using yarn (1a) knitted base fabric (1), which includes plastic, softened and / or melted when heated. 4. Faux fur according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the thermal bonding is carried out using yarn (1a) knitted warp fabric (1) and staple fibers (3) connected to a knitted warp fabric. 5. Faux fur according to claim 1, characterized in that the thermal bonding is carried out using an additional layer (2) placed on the back of the knitted fabric of the base (1), which includes plastic, softened and / or melted when heated, and which is located next to the knitted base fabric (1). FIG. one 6. Faux fur according to claim 5, characterized in that also the yarn (1a), knitted warp fabric (1) and / or staple fibers (3) connected to the knitted warp fabric contain plastic that softens and / or melts when heated . 7. Faux fur according to claim 2 or 4, characterized in that the staple fibers (3) associated with the knitted fabric of the base (1) contain binding fibers, of which plastic is softened and / or melted when heated. 8. Faux fur according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the yarn (1a) of the knitted warp fabric (1) contains binding fibers, of which plastic, softened and / or melted when heated, is an integral part. 9. Faux fur according to claims 2, 3, 4, 6, 7 or 8, characterized in that the staple fibers (3) connected to the knitted base fabric, or the knitted base fabric (1) also contain other fibrous material, in addition to the fibers containing plastic, softened and / or melted when heated. 10. A method of manufacturing artificial fur according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the heat treatment is carried out by adding heat. 11. The method according to claim 10, characterized in that the heat treatment is carried out by holding a knitted base fabric (1) and an additional layer (2), possibly fixed on its reverse side, above a heated surface. 12. The method of manufacturing artificial fur according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the heat treatment is carried out by convection of heat. 13. A method of manufacturing artificial fur according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the heat treatment is carried out by means of heat radiation. 14. The method according to any of the preceding claims 10 to 13, characterized in that in addition to the heat treatment, pressure is also used for fixing.