DE19944545C1 - Aqueous nacreous luster concentrate, useful in cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions, comprises lustrous wax and odorless mixture of alkyloligoglycoside surfactants - Google Patents

Abstract

Aqueous nacreous luster concentrate (A) comprises: (i) a mixture of two alkyloligoglycosides (AG); and (ii) a lustrous wax (LW). AG is a mixture of 20-80wt.% each of (I) and (II) R<1>O(G)p1 (I) and R<2>O(G)p2 (II) R<1> = 5-50 wt.% branched 9-11C alkyl; G = 5-6C sugar residue; p1, p2 = 1-10; and R<2> = exclusively linear 12-18C alkyl.

Description

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of surface-active preparations and relates to new ones aqueous concentrates of branched and linear alkyl glycosides and pearlescent waxes and their Use for the production of surfactants.

State of the art

Alkyl oligoglycosides are non-ionic surfactants that have become firmly established in the market in recent years due to their excellent foam properties and particularly advantageous ecotoxicological compatibility. They serve, for example, as emulsifiers for the production of pearlescent concentrates. It is disadvantageous, however, that they sometimes have an unpleasant greasy smell, which necessitates the concomitant use of considerable amounts of perfumes to cover them. The cause of this smell are the short-chain linear C ₈ -C ₁₀ components in the alcohol component of the glycosides, which cannot be dispensed with, however, since they have a significant influence on the emulsifying power.

In this context, reference is made, for example, to the publications EP 0376083 B1 and EP 0570398 B1 (Henkel), from which the use of alkyl oligoglucosides for the preparation of Perl gloss concentrates is known.

Accordingly, the object of the present invention was to create new mixtures of alkyl to provide oligoglycosides and pearlescent waxes that are at least the same application properties are practically odorless.  

Description of the invention

The invention relates to aqueous pearlescent concentrates based on (a) alkyl oligoglycosides and (b) pearlescent waxes, which are distinguished in that component (a) - based on the solids content - is characterized by

• 1. 20 to 80, preferably 30 to 70 and in particular 40 to 60% by weight of alkyl oligoglycosides of the formula (I),
  R ¹ O [G] _p1 (I)
  in which R ^{1 is} a 5 to 50% by weight branched alkyl radical having 9 to 11 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p1 is a number from 1 to 10, and
• 2. 80 to 20, preferably 70 to 30 and in particular 60 to 40% by weight of alkyl oligoglycosides of the formula (II),
  R ² O- [G] _p2 (II)
  in which R ^{2 is} an exclusively linear alkyl radical having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p2 is also a number from 1 to 10,

put together.

Surprisingly, it was found that the new concentrates did not only have at least one comparable, in many cases even improved storage stability, but also completely odor are free.

Alkyl oligoglycosides

Alkyl oligoglycosides (component a) are known nonionic surfactants, which according to the incl current methods of preparative organic chemistry can be obtained. Representing the scope rich literature can be found here on the documents EP 0301298 A1 and WO 90/103977 A1.

The alkyl oligoglycosides of the formulas (I) and (II) can differ from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 Carbon atoms, preferably derived from glucose. The preferred alkyl oligoglycosides are thus Alkyl oligoglucosides. The index numbers p1 and p2 in the general formulas (I) and (II) give the  average degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e. H. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. During p1 and p2 always in a given connection must be integers, and above all can assume the values p = 1 to 6, are the two Values for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside are an analytical value, usually represents a fractional number. Alkyl oligoglycosides with a medium oligome are preferred degree of risk p from 1.1 to 3.0 is used. From an application point of view, such alkyloli are goglycosides preferred, the degree of oligomerization of which is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.

The alkyl radical R ¹ can be derived from corresponding oxo alcohols, which can be prepared via the hydroformylation of olefins and subsequent reduction of the mixtures of linear and branched aldehydes obtained as intermediates. The alkyl radical is preferably derived from oxo alcohols which are linear at least 75% by weight and branched to a maximum of 25% by weight and less (than 2% by weight of alkyl radicals with C numbers less than 9, 13 to 23% by weight) .-% C ₉ alkyl residues, 37 to 47 wt .-% C ₁₀ alkyl residues, 33 to 43 wt .-% C ₁₁ alkyl residues and less than 3 wt .-% alkyl residues with C numbers greater than 11. In one In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkyl oligoglycosides of the formula (I) can be derived from oxo alcohols which contain at least 50% by weight of linear and at most 50% by weight of branched portions and less than 2% by weight of alkyl radicals with C- Numbers less than 9.0 to 50% by weight of C ₉ alkyl radicals, 0 to 1% by weight of C ₁₀ alkyl radicals, 0 to 100% by weight of C ₁₁ alkyl radicals and less than 5% by weight of alkyl radicals with C. Have numbers greater than 11 with the proviso that at least the amounts of C ₉ and C ₁₁ alkyl radicals add up to 100% by weight in the trade under the Neodol® and Lial® brands.

On this occasion, for example, international patent application WO 94/21769 A2 (Berol Nobel), from which glycosides with branches in the alkyl chain are also known are.

The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ² can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 and in particular 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on optionally hardened C _12/14 or C _12/18 coconut oil _{alcohol are preferred} .

The alkyl oligoglycoside mixtures can be prepared by mixing the constituents. It However, it is also possible to first produce an appropriate alcohol mixture and this  then acetalize. In one embodiment of the invention, the alkyl oligoglycoside mixtures are present as aqueous solutions or pastes with a solid content (identical to the non-aqueous solution) proportion or active substance content) in the range from 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 35 and in particular Have 15 to 25 wt .-%. Alternatively, powder or gra nulates are used, for example by spray drying, fluidized bed granulation or drying in the thin layer [cf. e.g. B. WO 97/10324 A1 (Henkel)], and thereby have a solids content of 95 to 100% by weight and a residual moisture of at most 5% by weight.

Pearlescent waxes

Pearlescent waxes which form component (b) are, for example: alkylene glycol esters; Fatty acid alkanolamides; Partial glycerides; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted Carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms; Fatty substances, such as, for example, Fettal alcohols, fatty acids, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, in total at least Have 16, preferably at least 24 carbon atoms; Ring opening products from Olefinepoxi those with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, fatty acids and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof gene.

The alkylene glycol esters are usually mono- and / or diesters of alkylene glycols which follow the formula (III)

R ³ CO (OA) _n OR ⁴ (III)

in the R ³ CO for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ⁴ for hydrogen or R ³ CO and A for a linear or branched alkylene radical with 2 to 4 carbon atoms and n for numbers from 1 to 5 stands. Typical examples are mono- and / or diesters of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tri ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol with fatty acids with 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms as there are: caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid , Isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. The use of ethylene glycol mono- and / or distearate is particularly preferred.

Fatty acid alkanolamides which can be used as pearlescent waxes follow the formula (IV),

R ⁵ CO-NR ⁶ -B-OH (IV)

in which R ⁵ CO represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 represents} hydrogen or an optionally hydroxyl-substituted alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and B represents a linear or branched alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms . Typical examples are condensation products of ethanolamine, methylethanolamine, diethanolamine, propanolamine, methylpropanolamine and dipropanolamine and their mixtures with caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, isostroidic acid, isostearic acid selinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. The use of stearic acid ethanolamide is particularly preferred.

Partial glycerides which have pearlescent properties are mono and / or diesters of glycerol with fatty acids, namely, for example, caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, oleic acid , Petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachinic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. They preferably follow the formula (V),

in which R ⁷ CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ⁸ and R ⁹ independently of one another for hydrogen or R ⁷ CO, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30 and X for is an alkali or alkaline earth metal with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R ⁸ and R ^{9 is} hydrogen. Typical examples are lauric acid, lauric säurediglycerid, coconut fatty, coconut fatty acid triglyceride, palmitic, Palmitinsäuretriglycerid, oleic, stearic acid diglyceride, Isostearinsäuremonoglyce chloride, Isostearinsäurediglycerid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, tallow fatty acid, Talgfettsäurediglycerid, behenic acid, Behensäurediglycerid, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, Erucasäurediglycerid and technical mixtures thereof, the minor product of the Herstellungspro zeß may still contain small amounts of triglyceride.

Pearlescent waxes also come from esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxysubsti tuated carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms in question. As an acid compo Nente of these esters come, for example, malonic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, adipic acid, Se bacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and in particular amber acid and malic acid, citric acid and especially tartaric acid and mixtures thereof in Be dress. The fatty alcohols contain 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 and in particular 16 to 18 Koh len atoms in the alkyl chain. Typical examples are capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palm oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, lino lyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, Erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. The esters can be as full or Partial esters are present, preferably mono- and especially diesters of carbon or hydroxy carboxylic acids used. Typical examples are succinic acid mono- and dilauryl esters, amber acid mono- and dicetearly esters, succinic acid mono- and distearyl esters, tartaric acid mono- and dilaury esters, tartaric acid mono- and dicoco alkyl esters, tartaric acid mono- and dicetearyl esters, lemons acid mono-, di- and trilauryl esters, citric acid mono-, di- and tricoco alkyl esters and lemons acid mono-, di- and tricetearyl esters.

Long-chain fatty alcohols which preferably follow the formula (VI) can be used as a further group of pearlescent waxes,

R ¹⁰ OH (VI)

in which R ^{10 represents} a linear or branched alkyl radical having 16 to 54, 24 to 48, preferably 32 to 36 carbon atoms. The substances mentioned are either fatty alcohols, such as. As cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol or, preferably, oxidation products of long-chain paraffins.

Aliphatic, optionally hydroxy-substituted fatty acids with 16 to 22 carbons, which preferably follow the formula (VII), are also suitable for this purpose.

R ¹¹ CO-OH (VII)

in which R ¹¹ CO represents a linear or branched acyl or hydroxyacyl radical having 16 to 24 carbon atoms. Typical examples are stearic acid, cetylstearic acid, hydroxystearic acid and behenic acid and their technical mixtures.

Fat ketones which are suitable as component (b) preferably follow the formula (VIII),

R ¹² -CO-R ¹³ (VIII)

in which R ¹² and R ¹³ independently of one another are alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that they have a total of at least 16 and preferably 22 to 48 carbon atoms. The ketones can be prepared by methods known in the art, for example by pyrolysis of the corresponding fatty acid magnesium salts. The ketones can be symmetrical or asymmetrical, but the two radicals R ¹² and R ¹³ preferably differ only by one carbon atom and are derived from fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Stearon is characterized by particularly advantageous pearlescent properties.

Fatty aldehydes suitable as pearlescent waxes generally correspond to the formula (IX)

R ¹⁴ COH (IX)

in which R ¹⁴ CO represents a linear or branched acyl radical having 16 to 48, preferably 22 to 32, carbon atoms.

Also suitable as pearlescent waxes are fatty ethers of the formula (X)

R ¹⁵ -OR ¹⁶ (X)

in which R ¹⁵ and R ¹⁶ independently of one another are alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that they have a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbon atoms. Fat ethers of the type mentioned are usually prepared by acidic condensation of the corresponding fatty alcohols. Fat ethers with particularly advantageous pearlescent properties are obtained by condensation of fatty alcohols having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol.

Fatty carbonates of the formula (XI) are also suitable as component (b)

R ¹⁷ O-CO-OR ¹⁸ (XI)

in which R ¹⁷ and R ¹⁸ independently of one another are alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that they have a total of at least 16 and preferably 22 to 48 carbon atoms. The substances are obtained by transesterifying, for example, dimethyl or diethyl carbonate with the corresponding fatty alcohols in a manner known per se. Accordingly, the fatty carbonates can be constructed symmetrically or asymmetrically. However, preference is given to using carbonates in which R ¹⁷ and R ^{18 are the} same and represent alkyl radicals having 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Transesterification products of dimethyl carbonate or methyl carbonate with cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behe nyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol in the form of their mono- and diesters or their technical mixtures are particularly preferred.

The likewise suitable epoxy ring opening products are known substances which are usually prepared by acid-catalyzed reaction of terminal or internal olefin epoxies with aliphatic alcohols. The reaction products preferably follow the formula (XII)

in which R ¹⁹ and R ^{20 are} hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of R ¹⁹ and R ^{20 is} in the range from 10 to 20 and R21 is an alkyl and / or Alkenyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or the radical of a polyol having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are ring opening products of α-dodecenepoxide, α-hexadecenepoxide, α-octadecenepoxide, α-eicosenepoxide, α-docosenepoxide, i-dodecenepoxide, i-hexadecenepoxide, i-octadecenepoxide, i-Eico senepoxide and / or i-docoholo epoxide with laurylalkosenepoxide Coconut fatty alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol. Ring opening products of hexa- and / or octadecene epoxides with fatty alcohols having 16 to 18 carbon atoms are preferably used. If, instead of the fatty alcohols, polyols are used for the ring opening, these are, for example, the following substances: glycerol; Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons; technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight; Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol; Lower alkyl glucosides, in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside; Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as, for example, sorbitol or mannitol, sugars with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as, for example, glucose or sucrose; Aminosugars such as glucamine.

The pearlescent concentrates - based on the solids content -

• a) 1 to 99, preferably 25 to 75 and in particular 40 to 60% by weight of the mixture of alkyloli goglycosides of formulas (I) and (II) and
• b) 99 to 1, preferably 75 to 25 and in particular 60 to 40% by weight of pearlescent waxes

contain. The solids content of the concentrates (corresponding to the active substance content) can be 1 to 60 preferably 5 to 45 and in particular 15 to 35 wt .-%.

Industrial applicability

A major advantage of the pearlescent concentrates according to the invention is that they are at the same time Excellent emulsifying or dispersing ability similar or even better than that Show suitable products based exclusively on linear alcohols and are completely odorless. Another object of the present invention is therefore the use of the concentrates for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations in which they are used in quantities from 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 8 and in particular 3 to 5% by weight, based on the composition, contain can be.

Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations

The pearlescent concentrates according to the invention can be used for the production of turbid, preferably two se but pearlescent cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, such as Hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powders or ointments serve. These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsions gators, superfatting agents, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickening agents, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, stabilizers, biogenic agents, deodorant antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants dantien, hydrotropes, preservatives, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (De pigmenting agents), solubilizers, perfume oils, dyes and the like.

Typical examples of suitable mild, i.e. H. Surfactants that are particularly compatible with the skin are fatty alcohol poly glycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates,  Fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, a-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, Fatty acid glucamides, and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on white zen proteins.

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ -Carboxylic acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, such as. B. myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, My ristylerucat, cetyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, partisan groups lerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl, stearyl, Stearylisostearat, stearyl, stearyl, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearylo leat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Beheny lisostearat, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl, Erucylstea rat, erucyl, erucyl , Erucyl behenate and erucylerucate. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids are suitable with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids , Get esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 up to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid m it linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (e.g. B. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for. B. as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexane.

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

• - Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear Fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 up to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;
• - Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• - Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;  
• - Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched ten fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 Koh lenstoffatomen and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide;
• - Partial esters of polyglycerin (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene gly col (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. Sor bit), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. Cellulose) with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their Adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
• - Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 11 65 574 B. and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerin or polyglycerin.
• - Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates as well as mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their Salts;
• - wool wax alcohols;
• - Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• - Polyalkylene glycols as well
• - glycerine carbonate.

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the substance quantities of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and Substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. C _12/18 fatty acid _monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 20 24 051 C3 as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxy stearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, Oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid moglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric diglyce rid, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, the subordinate may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Also suitable are addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, moles of ethylene oxide onto the par tialglycerides.

Sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, Sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, Sorbi  tanmonoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, Sor bitansesquiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, Sor bitansesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbi tandicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan tri maleate and their technical mixtures. Addition products from 1 to 30 are also suitable, preferably 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide to the sorbitan esters mentioned.

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehy muls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methyl glucose distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate isostearates and their mixtures.

Examples of other suitable polyol esters are those with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, if appropriate set mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fat acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxyl hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are also ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts are. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid each with about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkylaminopropionate, coconut acylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12/18 acyl sarcosine.

Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the Esterquats, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, especially before are moving.

Substances such as lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxy can be used as superfatting agents lated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid al kanolamides are used, the latter also serving as foam stabilizers.

The main consistency agents are fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and in addition partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fat acids into consideration. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or is preferred Fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), Polysac charide, especially xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of Fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma), poly acrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid reglycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, Fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes like table salt and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as. Legs quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose obtained from Amerchol under the name Polymer JR 400® Lich, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers, such as. B. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products from Poly glycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as lauryldimonium hydroxy propyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as. B. amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethyla minohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, e.g. B. described in the FR 2252840 A2 and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives as in for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products Dihaloalkylene, such as. B. dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as. B. bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as B. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, such as. B. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 der Miranol company.  

Examples of anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / Isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, un cross-linked and polyols cross-linked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / - Acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam terpolymers and, if appropriate, derivatized Cellulose ethers and silicones in question.

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones as well as amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or al alkyl modified silicone compounds that are both liquid and resinous at room temperature can lie. Simethicones, which are mixtures of Dimethico, are also suitable nen with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated Silicates. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found at Todd et al. in cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

Typical examples of fats are glycerides. a. natural waxes such as B. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, Lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro wax; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as. B. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as B. Polyalkylene waxes and Polyethylengly colwaxes in question. In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as Lecithins and phospholipids in question. The skilled person understands the term lecithins those glycerophospholipids, which are made up of fatty acids, glycerin, phosphoric acid and choline Form esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC) designated. Examples of natural lecithins are the kephalins, which are also known as phospha tidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of Phosphoric acid with glycerin (glycerin phosphates), which are generally classified as fats. There In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as. B. magnesium, aluminum and / or Zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.

Examples of biogenic active ingredients are tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, Ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acid  ren, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes to understand.

Cosmetic deodorants (deodorants) counteract, mask or mask body odors page them. Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling degradation products are formed. Accordingly, Deodo included rantien Active ingredients that act as germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or Ge act as a cover.

In principle, all substances effective against gram-positive bacteria are anti-germ agents suitable, such as B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N '- (3,4 dichlor phenyl) urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2'- Methylene-bis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4- Chlorophenoxy) -1,2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbonilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, Phenoxyethanol, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as B. salicylic acid-n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide.

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. This is before preferably around trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and ins special triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit the Enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Other substances that act as esterase inhibitors sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as lanosterol, cholesterol, Campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipine acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarb non-acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.

Suitable as odor absorbers are substances which absorb odor-forming compounds and are widely used can hold on. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus reduce them also their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes remain unaffected sen. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. For example, they contain as The main ingredient is a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or a special, largely odorless Fragrances known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for. B. extracts of labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or par act as odor maskers for, in addition to their function as odor maskers, the deodorants their respective Give fragrance. Perfume oils include, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic  table fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, Fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and bal seeds. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Ty Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, keto type ne, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. Ben cyanoacetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, Allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example Benzyl ethyl ether, to the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, Citronellal, Citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, too the ketones e.g. B. the Jonone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, Isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, belong to the hydrocarbons mainly the terpenes and balms. However, mixtures of different scents are preferred substances that together create an appealing fragrance. Essential oils also low Rer volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are suitable as perfume oils, for. B. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, Vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citro nenoil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclover valley, lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, β- Damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilate, irotyl and Floramat used alone or in mixtures.

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

• - astringent active ingredients,
• - oil components,
• - nonionic emulsifiers,
• - co-emulsifiers,
• - consistency giver,
• - auxiliaries such. B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or
• - non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. B. aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex connections z. B. with propylene glycol-1,2. Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlo crude hydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, antiperspirants can contain customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries in smaller amounts. Such oil-soluble aids can e.g. B. be:

• - anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,
• - synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or
• - oil-soluble perfume oils.

Usual water-soluble additives are e.g. B. preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH value Adjusting means, e.g. B. buffer mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, e.g. B. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as B. xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

As anti-dandruff agents, Octopirox® (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyri don-monoethanolamine salt), Baypival, Pirocton Olamin, Ketoconazol®, (4-acetyl-1 - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlor phenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, selenium disulfide, Schwe fel colloidal, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinole polyhexylate, sulfur tar Distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid monoethanolamide Sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate, zinc pyrethione, aluminum pyrition and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate are used.

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized Chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds fertilize.

Montmorillonite, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl can be used as swelling agents for aqueous phases modified carbopol types (Goodrich) are used. Other suitable polymers or swelling agents can the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm. Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

Under UV light protection factors are to be understood, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) at room temperature, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. B. to give off heat like that. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances such. B. To name:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. B. 3- (4-Methylbenzy liden) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- 2-octyl (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamate pro pylester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octo crylene);
• - Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbene methyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-me thoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• - Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyl tria zone as described in EP 0818450 A1 or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);
• Propane-1,3-diones, such as e.g. B. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• - Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5- sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-Oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene sulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as, for example, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters wise 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds, as described in DE 197 12 033 A1 (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned come for this Purpose also insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts in question. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium as well as their mixtures. As salts Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used. The oxides and salts are in the form of pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics used. The particles should preferably have an average diameter of less than 100 nm have between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. You can ... a  have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have a have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape other than the spherical shape. The Pig elements can also be surface treated, i. H. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical Examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as. B. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones and, in particular, trials are the main hydrophobic coating agents koxyoctylsilane or Simethicone in question. So-called Mi are preferred in sunscreens Cro- or nanopigments used. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further Suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P. Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) remove.

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), Auro thioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl) , Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoxim , Homocysteine sulfoximine, Butionin sulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoxim in) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), further (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lac toferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid , Biliary extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α -Glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, man nose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivative ate (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenium-methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (z. B. stilbene oxide, trans-style benoxid) and the inventive derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

To improve the flow behavior, hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used. Polyols which come into consideration here and whose use is particularly preferred for lowering the viscosity of the concentrates generally have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

• - glycerin;
• Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, Hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
• - Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
• Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, Pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• - Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as wise methyl and butyl glucoside;
• Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,
• - Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
• - aminosugars such as glucamine;
• - Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, para benzene, pentanediol or sorbic acid as well as those in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation led further substance classes. As insect repellents there are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2- Pentanediol or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate in question, dihydroxy is suitable as a self-tanner acetone. As tyrosine inhibitors that prevent the formation of melanin and use in depigmas Finding agents come, for example, arbutin, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) in question.

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural Fragrance substances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, Calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, Lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and bal seeds (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Furthermore animal raw come substances in question, such as civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds  gen are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-Bu tylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, Benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzylsa licylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes z. B. the linear Alka nals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. B. the Jonone, α-isomethylionon and Me thylcedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, pheny ethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and bal same. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances that work together generate an appealing fragrance. Also essential oils of lower volatility, mostly as an aro Mac components are used as perfume oils, e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, Lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanu mole, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, Citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, Lina lool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, Allylamyl glycolate, cyclover valley, lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, Cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertoffx Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures gene, used.

As dyes, the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes can be used be used, such as the dye in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants" Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106 are put together. These dyes are usually used in concentrations from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight on the middle - amount. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes gene; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.

Examples

On the basis of various short and long chain, linear and branched alkyl oligoglucosides one On the other hand and ethylene glycol distearate, on the other hand, 45% by weight aqueous concentrates became olfactory judged. Here means (4) = strong own smell, (3) = clear own smell, (2) = weak egg genetic odor, (1) = practically odorless. The concentrates were then at 20 for 1 to 4 weeks or 40 ° C and stability checked. (+) Means stable and (-) separate. The result They can be found in Table 1. Mixtures 1 and 2 are according to the invention, mixtures V1 up to V8 are used for comparison.

Table 1

Olfactory assessment and storage stability of pearlescent concentrates

Claims (10)

1. Aqueous pearlescent concentrates based on (a) alkyl oligoglycosides and (b) pearlescent waxes, characterized in that component (a) is based on the solids content

• 1. 20 to 80% by weight of alkyl oligoglycosides of the formula (I),
  R ¹ O [G] _p1 (I)
  in which R ^{1 is} a 5 to 50% by weight branched alkyl radical having 9 to 11 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p1 is a number from 1 to 10, and
• 2. 80 to 20% by weight of alkyl oligoglycosides of the formula (II),
  R ² O- [G] _p2 (II)
  in which R ^{2 is} an exclusively linear alkyl radical having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p2 is also a number from 1 to 10,

put together. 2. Concentrates according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain, as component (a1) alkyl oligoglycosides of the formula (I) which are derived from oxo alcohols which branched to at least 75% by weight linear and to a maximum of 25% by weight Proportions and less than 2% by weight of alkyl residues with C numbers less than 9, 13 to 23% by weight of C ₉ alkyl residues, 37 to 47% by weight of C ₁₀ alkyl residues, 33 to 43% by weight of C ₁₁ alkyl residues and less than 3 wt .-% alkyl residues with C numbers greater than 11. 3. Concentrates according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain as component (a1) alkyl oligoglycosides of the formula (I) which are derived from oxo alcohols which are linear to at least 50% by weight and to a maximum of 50% by weight Proportions and less than 2% by weight of alkyl radicals with C numbers less than 9.0 to 50% by weight of C ₉ alkyl radicals, 0 to 1% by weight of C ₁₀ alkyl radicals, 0 to 100% by weight of C ₁₁ alkyl residues and less than 5 wt .-% alkyl residues with C numbers greater than 11 with the proviso that at least the amounts of C ₉ and C ₁₁ alkyl residues add up to 100 wt .-%. 4. Concentrates according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that they contain as component (a2) alkyl oligoglycosides of the formula (II), which differ from technical Ko derive from alcohols. 5. Concentrates according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they contain, as component (b), pearlescent waxes selected from the group formed by

• 1. alkylene glycol esters,
• 2. fatty acid alkanolamides,
• 3. partial glycerides,
• 4. esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms,
• 5. Fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and / or fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 16 carbon atoms, and
• 6. Ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohol fetch with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups.

6. concentrates according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that - based on the solids content -

• a) 1 to 99 wt .-% alkyl oligoglycosides and
• b) 99 to 1% by weight of pearlescent waxes

contain. 7. Concentrates according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they have a solids content of 1 to 60% by weight. 8. concentrates according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that they continue to contain polyols. 9. Use of concentrates according to at least one of claims 1 to 8 for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations. 10. Use according to claim 9, characterized in that the concentrates in quantities from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the preparations, is used.