DE10111054A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations for reinforcing skin barrier function, e.g. to prevent dryness, containing agents inhibiting the onset of nitrogen monoxide synthase activity - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of agents (I) which inhibit the onset of nitrogen monoxide (NO) synthase activity in warm-blood organisms is claimed in the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for reinforcing the barrier function of the skin.

Description

The present invention relates to the use of substances which prevent the NO synthase of the warm-blooded organism unfolds its effect, for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for strengthening the barrier radio tion of the skin.

Under cosmetic skincare is to be understood in the first place that the natural radio the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, microorgan organisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, natural Fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, it can lead to increased absorption of toxic or allergenic Substances or infestation of microorganisms and as a result to toxic or allergic Skin reactions come.

In old skin, for example, the regenerative renewal slows down, the ins particular decreases the water binding capacity of the horny layer. It will therefore inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). A barrier damage is the Episode. The skin becomes susceptible to negative environmental influences such as the invasion of micro organisms, toxins and allergens. As a result, it can even become toxic or anything gical skin reactions come.

In the case of pathologically dry and sensitive skin, barrier damage is a priori. Epidermal intercellular lipids become defective or insufficient or too composition formed. The consequence is an increased permeability of the horn  layer and insufficient protection of the skin from loss of hygroscopic sub punching and water.

The barrier effect of the skin may be beyond the determination of transepidermal water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss). It is about to the evaporation of water from the inside of the body without the involvement of the water loss while sweating. The determination of the TEWL value has proved to be extraordinary Lich informative and can be used to diagnose cracked or chapped skin, Be mood of the compatibility of chemically diversified surfactants and the same more be used.

For the beauty and nourishment of the skin is the water content in the uppermost skin layer of utmost importance. You can use it to a limited extent bring influence of moisture regulators favorable.

Anionic surfactants, which are generally constituents of cleaning preparations can increase the pH in the stratum corneum long-lasting, causing regenerative Processes that restore and renew the barrier function of the skin very disabled. In this case, in the horny layer arises between regeneration and the loss of essential substances by regular extraction a new, frequent very unfavorable state of equilibrium, which affects the external appearance of the skin and the physiological functioning of the horny layer significantly impaired. Even with a simple water bath without the addition of surfactants, it comes first to a swelling of the horny layer of the skin, the degree of this swelling example depending on the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time, what will happen water-soluble substances, eg. B. water-soluble soil constituents, but also skin-own substances, which are responsible for the water-binding capacity of the horny layer, off or washed. In addition, the skin's own surface-active substances also make skin fats in solved to a certain extent and washed out. This requires after initial swelling a subsequent significant dehydration of the skin, by washing-active additives still can be strengthened.

In healthy skin, these processes are generally trivial, since the protective mecha skin disorders such minor disorders of the upper skin layers easily  can compensate. But already in the case of nonpathological deviations from Normal status, eg B. by environmental wear or irritation, light damage, aging skin, etc., the protective mechanism of the skin surface is disturbed. Under Circumstances, he is then no longer able to fulfill his task on his own and must be regenerated by external measures.

In addition, it is known that the lipid composition and amount of the horny layer of the pathologically altered, dry and dry, but not diseased skin Younger and older people deviate from normal, in the healthy, nor times hydrogenated skin of an equal age group is found. Here are the Changes in the lipid pattern of the very dry, non-eczematous skin of patients with atopic eczema is an extreme case of the abnormalities that occur in the dry skin of healthy people.

These deviations particularly affect the ceramides in their quantity greatly reduced and additionally composed differently. Striking is in be in particular, the deficit of the ceramides 1 and 3, in particular for the Cera It is known that the order of the lipids in the intercellu is known in a special way boom systems increases.

Adverse changes in the lipid membranes of the kind outlined above possibly on misdirected lipid biosynthesis and also increase in the end the transepidermal water loss. A long-standing barrier barrier again makes the healthy skin itself more sensitive and can emerge in individual cases eczematous processes in the diseased skin.

The effect of ointments and creams on barrier function and hydration of the horn As a rule, a shift does not consist in restoring or strengthening physika chemical properties of the lamellae from intercellular lipids. An essential Partial effect is based on the mere coverage of the treated skin areas and the dar resulting water accumulation in the underlying horny layer. Coapplied hy Groscopic substances bind the water, causing a measurable increase the water content in the horny layer comes. This purely physical barrier can However, they are relatively easy to remove. After discontinuation of the product returns Skin then quickly returns to the state before treatment. Over there  from the skin care effect can relax with regular treatment, so that Finally, even during the treatment of the status quo is achieved again. At be The condition of the skin worsens after discontinuation temporarily. A sustainable product effect is usually not or achieved only to a limited extent.

To support the deficient skin in their natural regeneration and their phy To strengthen siological function, topical preparations are increasing in recent times Intercellular lipid mixtures added by the skin to rebuild the natural barrier should be used. However, these are Lipi the, but especially the ceramides, to very expensive raw materials. Moreover, their us kung usually much lower than hoped.

The aim of the present invention was thus to find ways, the disadvantages of the prior art to avoid the technique. In particular, the effect of skin care products should phy be siological, fast and sustainable.

Skin care in the sense of the present invention is to be understood primarily as meaning the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, Chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (eg Water, lipids, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

Products for the care, treatment and cleaning of dry and stressed skin are on known. However, their contribution to the regeneration of a physiologically intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer extensive and temporary.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydration of the Horny layer is based essentially on the coverage (occlusion) of the treated Skin areas. The ointment or cream, so to speak, creates a (second) artificial barrier which is intended to prevent the loss of water from the skin. Accordingly, this phy sikalische barrier - for example, with cleaning agents - be removed again, where is reached again by the original, impaired state. Furthermore may soften the skin care effect with regular treatment. After the Abset During application of the product, the skin returns to the condition very quickly start of action back. For certain products, the condition of the product deteriorates  Skin may even be temporary. A sustainable product effect is in the rule therefore not or only achieved to a limited extent.

The effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the barrier function of the skin exists even in a selective barrier damage that is supposed to allow for active ingredients into or through the skin into the body. A disturbed appearance The skin is partially accepted as a side effect in part.

The effect of nourishing cleaning products consists essentially in an effi Greasing with sebum lipid-like substances. Due to the simultaneous Ver Reduction of the surfactant content of such preparations can be the damage to the horn further limit the barrier layer.

The state of the art, however, lacks preparations containing the barrier radio tion and hydration of the horny layer positively influence and the physico-chemical properties of the horny layer and in particular of the intercellular lamellae strengthen or even restore pids.

The endothelium of the blood vessels has a strategic anatomical position between the circulating blood and the underlying vascular muscle cells and thus has the possibility of both the function of platelets, as well as smooth vessel regulate muscle cells.

An important mediator of this function is Endothelial Nitric Oxide (EDNO), which is formed via a constitutive NO synthase (eNOS) from L-arginine. NO is a gaseous radical and reacts quickly with other substances. Its half-life in biological systems is therefore usually only a few seconds. EDNO is released both luminally and abluminally. The luminal release deactivates platelets and thus prevents the adhesion and Agregregation of these cells. As a result of abluminal release, NO in vascular smooth muscle cells causes vasodilation, which, as in other cells, is mediated by activation of soluble guanylate cyclase and formation of cyclic GMP (cGMP). Finally, the cGMP decreases the intracellular calcium concentration and dephosphorylates the myosin light chain in the vascular smooth muscle cells, causing effective dilatation. EDNO is continuously released from the vessel wall (basal release). The shear forces of the circulating blood and a number of substances such as acetylcholine, bradykinin, substance P and, above all, thrombocytes released from thrombocytes, such as adenine di- and triphosphate and serotonin, additionally increase the release of EDNO (stimulated release).

Today's idea of the relaxing processes in the blood vessels is in progress standing scheme reproduced. A substance A binds to the receptor R one Endothelial cell, which increases the absorption of calcium ions. The elevated cal concentration increases the activity of the enzyme nitric oxide synthase (= NO- Synthase = NOS), which consists of the amino acid L-arginine with simultaneous formation of Citrulline NO releases. This diffuses to the smooth muscle cells, where it is Activated enzyme guanylyl cyclase. This increases the concentration of cGMP, which triggers other processes that lead to muscle relaxation.

It was therefore the object of the present invention, the evils of the prior Eliminate technology.

According to the invention, the evils of the prior art are eliminated by the Use of substances that prevent the NO synthase of the warm-blooded  Organism unfolds its effect, for the production of cosmetic or dermatologi preparations for strengthening the barrier function of the skin.

The substance or substances which prevent the NO synthase of the warm-blooded organism from exerting its effect can be advantageously chosen

• a) from the group of substances that inhibits NO synthase (= NO synthase inhi bitors or NO synthase inhibitors) and / or
• b) from the group of substances that express the expression of NO synthase in warm-blood organism inhibits or prevents it.

According to the invention, the NO synthase inhibitor (s) mentioned under (a) can advantageously be selected from the group which comprises: Ebselen (2-phenyl-1,2-benzisoselezazol-3 (2H) -one), canavanine (2 Amino-4-guanidinooxybutyric acid), N-acylsphingosine; 2-amino-4-methylpyridine, S-methylisothiourea, citrulline, thiocarbamate, iminopiperidine, dialkyliminopyridoline, 2-aminopyridine or iminopiperidine, 5-hetero-2-iminohexahydroaze pin, fluoroacetamidine amino acids, oleic acid], aminoguanidine hemisulfate (CAS No .: [996-19-01]), (±) -2-amino-5,6-dihydro-6-methyl-4H-1,3-thiazine hydrochloride (CAS No .: [21463-31-0]), Benzamide (CAS No .: [55-21-0]), carboxy-PTIO potassium (2- (4-carboxyphenyl) -4,5-dihydro-4,4,5,5-tetramethyl-1H-imidazol-yloxy 3-oxide potassium) (CAS No .: [148819-94-7]), N ^G , N ^G -dimethyl-L-arginine dihydrochloride (CAS No .: [65005-57-4]), diphenylene iodonium chloride (CAS No .: [244-54-2]), LN ⁵ - (1-iminoethyl) ornithine hydrochloride, (CAS No .: [36889-13-1]), LN ⁶ - (1-iminoethyl) - lysine hydrochloride (CAS No .: [150403-89-7]), 1,5-quinolinediol Iso (CAS No .: [5154-02-9]), N ^G -monomethyl-L-argininacetat (CAS No. : [17035-90- 4]), N ^G -nitro-L-arginine (CAS No .: [2149-70-4]), N ^G -nitro-L-arginine methyl ester hydrochloride (CAS-No .: [ 51298-62-5]), 7-nitroindazole (CAS No .: [2942-42-9]), 1H- [1,2,4] oxadiazolo [4,3-a] quinoxalin-1-one (CAS No .: [41443-28 -1]), 1- (2-trifluoromethylphenyl) imidazole (CAS No .: [25371-96-4]), (2S, 4R) -4-methylglutamic acid (CAS No .: [31137-74-3] ), 3-bromo-7-nitroindazole (CAS No .: [74209-34-0]), curcumin (1,7-bis (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) -1,6-heptadiene-3,5 -dione) (CAS No .: [458-37-7]), 6,7-dimethyltetrahydropterin hydrochloride (CAS No .: [167423-51-0]), diphenyleniodonium chloride (CAS No .: [4673-26 -1]), N-ethyl-N'-phenylguanidine hydrochloride, α-guanidinoglutaric acid (CAS No .: [73477-53-9]), S-isophoryl disothiourea hydrobromide (CAS No .: [4269-97-0 ]), N ^G , N ^G -dimethyl-L-arginine hydrochloride, S-methyl-L-thiocitrulline hydrochloride, L-NIL dihydrochloride (N ⁶ - (iminoethyl) -L-lysine dihydrochloride) (CAS-No .: [ 159190-45-1]), L-NIO dihydrochloride (N ⁵ - (1-iminoethyl) -L-ornithine dihydrochloride) (CAS No .: [36889-13-1]), L-NMMA citrate (N ⁵ - [1-imino (methylamino) methyl] -L-arginine citrate), 7-nitroindole (CAS no. : [2942-42-9]), 1,4-PBIT dihydro bromide (thiocarbamic acid-1,4-phenylenedi-2,1-ethanediyl ester dihydrobromide) (CAS No .: [157254-60-9]), 1, 3-PBIT dihydrobromide (thiocarbamic acid-1,3-phenylenedi-2,1-ethanediyl ester dihydrobromide), 1- (2-benzoxazolyl) -guanidine, nitroguanidine, 1,3-diaminoguanidine, (2-benzothiazolyl) guanidine, 3 Bromo-7-nitroindazole, S-methylthiourea, Norharman, Oregonin, Hirsutanonol.

The inhibitor (s) mentioned under (b) of the inducible NO-Syn For example, thase can be advantageously selected from the group ubiquinone Q10, benzoquinones, dexmethasone (11β, 16α) -9-fluoro-11,17,21-trihydroxy-16-methylpreg na-1,4-diene-3,20-dione).

Preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine. Its chemical structure is characterized as follows:

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.001-10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01-1 wt .-%, of one or more Substances that prevent the NO synthase of the warm-blooded organism Unfolded effect, preferably NO synthase inhibitors, particularly preferably nitroargi nin, based on the total composition of the preparations.

The substances according to the invention or cosmetic or dermatological preparations, containing such substances, are in all respects extremely satisfactory preparations. It was not foreseeable for the skilled person that the preparations ge according to the invention

• - better maintain or restore the barrier properties of the skin,
• - better counteract skin dehydration,

as the preparations of the prior art.  

When using the substances used in the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of erfindungsge Substances used in a surprising manner is an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis of deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive states of skin appendages Lich. The substances used according to the invention or cosmetic or topical der Matological preparations with an effective content of Sub However, punching also surprisingly serves to stimulate the collagen, Hyalu synthesis of elastonic acid, elastin and for stimulating the ceramide synthesis of the skin.

According to the invention, preparations containing the active compound com contain common antioxidants.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg uracanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, Cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodiopropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and also sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, pentahydazole). , Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerated dosages ( eg pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (e.g. Α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (for example γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg, vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferric acid and its derivatives, butylhydroxytofuol, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacarboxylic acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and their derivatives, mannose and their derivatives Derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-Sti Ibenoxid) and the inventively suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these drugs.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, ins particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the inventions used according to the active ingredient or with the cosmetic or topical derma use tological preparations with an effective content of the invention active ingredient is carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the fiction used according to the active ingredient or the cosmetic or topical dermatological Preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used in the invention is applied to the affected skin areas.

Advantageously, the active ingredient used in the invention can be incorporated in üb Liche cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which come in various forms may be present. So they can z. As a solution, a water-in-oil type emulsion (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) or a multiple emulsion, for example water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydro dispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or even an aerosol len.

According to the invention emulsions, z. B. in the form of a Cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain z. Fats, Oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, as well as water and one or more emul gators, as commonly used for such a type of formulation the.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the invention according to used active ingredient in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning insertion of the skin and hair.  

Of course, it is known to those skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions usually not without the usual auxiliaries and additives are conceivable. He cosmetic preparations according to the invention can therefore cosmetic adjuvants contain, as they are commonly used in such preparations, for. B. Kon preservatives, bactericides, deodorizing substances, antiperspirants, Insect repellents, vitamins, antifoaming agents, dyes, Pig dyeing, thickening, softening, moisturizing tende and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common Be components of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation medical shear preparations.

Medical topical compositions according to the present invention ent usually keep one or more drugs in effective concentration. The one For the sake of simplicity, a clear distinction is made between cosmetic and medical application and corresponding products to the statutory provisions the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Cosmetics Regulation, Foodstuffs and Foodstuffs) Drugs Act).

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention also advantageously contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O) ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (eg Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Particular preference is given to pigments based on TiO ₂ .

It is particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention, although not zwin when the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, d. h. that she are superficially treated water-repellent. This surface treatment can be in it exist that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydro phoben layer.  

One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic surface layer after a reaction according to

n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '→ n TiO ₂ (surface)

is produced. n and m are random stoichiometric parameters meter, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, in analogy to DE OS 33 14 742 illustrated hydrophobized pigments are advantageous.

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, furthermore M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline Solid, for example, inorganic micropigments in the invention Zube preparations, also anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric contain surfactants. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that are organic, nonpolar substances zen in water.

The hydrophilic moieties of a surfactant molecule are usually polar functional groups, for example -COO ^- -, -OSO ₃ ^2- , -SO ₃ ^- , while the hydrophobic moieties generally represent nonpolar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the nature and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. Here four groups can be distinguished:

• - anionic surfactants,
• - cationic surfactants,
• Amphoteric surfactants and
• - nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral medium. Cationic surfactants are almost exclusively characterized by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in the acidic or neutral medium. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution depending on the pH as anionic or kationi cal surfactants. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example is intended to illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^- (at pH = 2): X ^- = any anion, e.g. B. Cl ^-
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- (at pH = 7)
RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- B ⁺ (at pH = 12): B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. Na ⁺

Typical of non-ionic surfactants are polyether chains. Nonionic surfactants form in aqueous medium no ions.

A. Anionic surfactants

Advantageously used anionic surfactants are
Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

• 1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and Sodium Caprylic / Capric Glutamate,
• 2. Acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
• 3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
• 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• 5. acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate,
• 6. alaninates,

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

• 1. Carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkoxide and zinc undecylenate,
• 2. Ester carboxylic acids, for example, calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and Sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
• 3. Ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and Dilaureth-4 phosphate,
Sulfonic acids and salts, such as

• 1. Acyl-isethionates, z. B. sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
• 2. alkylarylsulfonates,
• 3. Alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
• 4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctylsodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laurethsulfo succinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfo succinate

such as
Sulfuric acid esters, such as

• 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 pareth sulfate,
• 2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

Advantageously to use cationic surfactants

• 1. alkylamines,
• 2. Alkylimidazoles,
• 3. ethoxylated amines and
• 4. quaternary surfactants,
• 5. esterquats.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N-atom containing 4 alkyl or aryl groups covalently linked. This results in a positive charge regardless of the pH. Advantageous are alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfine. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention may furthermore preferably be ge are selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromides, such as Benzyldimethylstea rylammonium chloride, further Alkyltrialkylammoniumsalze, for example Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidoethyl trimethyl ammonium ether sulfates, alkyl pyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetyl pyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds of cationic character  such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethyl amine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous to use.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Advantageously used amphoteric surfactants

• 1. acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example, sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acyl amphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
• 2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropion acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Nonionic surfactants

Advantageously used nonionic surfactants are

• 1. Alcohols,
• 2. alkanolamides, such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA,
• 3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,
• 4. Esters obtained by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
• 5. Ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated choles steric, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated La noline, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside,
• 6. sucrose esters, ethers,
• 7. polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters,
• 8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids.

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

The surface-active substance can be used in a concentration between 1 and 95% by weight. present in the preparations according to the invention, based on the total weight the preparations.  

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following substance group:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes;
• - Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, also natural oils such as z. Castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably Esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propy glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with lower alkanoic acids. Number or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoate;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from Group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unreacted branched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be advantageous ge are selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, iso propyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, Isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-Oc tyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the Group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or un saturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides may be included For example, be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semisyntheti and natural oils, eg. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, Almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and the like.  

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in Use of the present invention. It may also be advantageous if necessary waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase use.

Advantageously, the oil phase is selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and 2-Ethylhexylisostea rat, mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and Isotridecylisononanoat and mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat and Isotridecylisononanoat.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in the sense to use the present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other Ölpha senkomponenten except the silicone oil or silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are typically characterized by structural elements, as follows:

As present invention advantageously to be used linear silicones with multiple siloxyl units are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). m can assume values of 2-200,000.

Cyclic silicones which are advantageously used in accordance with the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are here generalized by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). n can assume values of 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that odd numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.

Advantageously, cyclomethicone (eg decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is considered to be inventive used to be used silicone oil. But other silicone oils are also beneficial For purposes of the present invention, for example Undecamethylcyclotrisi loxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyl dimethicone, behenoxydi methicone.

Also advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and Isotridecylisononanoat, and those from gyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

But it is also advantageous silicone oils similar constitution as the above Neten to select compounds whose derivatized organic side chains, for example are polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, poly siloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers, such as the cetyl dimethicone copolyol, which is (cetyl) Dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate).  

Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecylisono nanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally contains partly alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, and their ethers, preferably Ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, di ethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore alcohols low C number, z. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickening agents, which or which are advantageously chosen can be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention present as emulsions contain in particular advantageously one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can ge advantageous are selected from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, layer silicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

Preparations according to the invention present as hydrogels contain one or more more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids may be advantageous from the aforementioned group to get voted.

The gums include plant or tree juices that harden in the air and har ze form or extracts from aquatic plants. From this group can be beneficial in For the purposes of the present invention, for example, gum arabic, Jo hanis bread flour, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, Agar, Algine, Chondrus, Xanthan gum.

Also advantageous is the use of derivatized gums such. B. hydroxy propyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are z. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and Chitosan, chondroitin sulphates, starch and starch derivatives.

Among the cellulose derivatives are z. Methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.  

Among the layered silicates are naturally occurring and synthetic toners the like As montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such Veegum®. These can be used as such or in modified form as z. Stearylalkonium hectorites.

Furthermore, it is also advantageous to use silica gels.

Among the polyacrylates are z. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbo pol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Among the polymers are z. As polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohol hole, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Preparations according to the invention present as emulsions contain one or several emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can be chosen advantageously from the Group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

Among the nonionic emulsifiers are

• a) partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated Derivatives (eg, glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose sestearate)
• b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids
• c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides
• d) Alkylphenol polyglycol ethers (eg Triton X).

Among the anionic emulsifiers are

• a) soaps (eg sodium stearate)
• b) fatty alcohol sulfates
• c) mono-, di- and Trialkylphosphosäureester and their ethoxylates.

Among the cationic emulsifiers are

• 1. quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical z. B. Distearyldimonium chlorides.

Among the amphoteric emulsifiers are

• 1. Alkylamininoalkancarbonsäuren
• 2. betaines, sulfobetaines
• 3. imidazoline derivatives.

There are also naturally occurring emulsifiers, including beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.

For example, O / W emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, eg. B .:

• The fatty alcohol ethoxylates,
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,
• the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• - the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• The polyethylene glycol glycerin fatty acid ester,
• The ethoxylated sorbitan ester,
• - the cholesterol ethoxylates,
• - ethoxylated triglycerides,
• the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30,
• The polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H,
• the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• The propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• - the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• - the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• The polypropyleneglycolglycerol fatty acid ester,
• The propoxylated sorbitan ester,
• - cholesterol propoxylates,
• The propoxylated triglycerides,
• the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH,
• the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids based on these sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H,
• the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -H,
• the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• - etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ',
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers ge selects from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, especially Partly with HLB values of 14.5-15.5, provided that the O / W emulsifiers saturated residues R and R 'have. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated Stearylal alcohols, cetyl alcohols, Cetylstearylalkohole (Cetearylalkohole). Particularly preferred are:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (Stea reth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether (steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether (Isostea reth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20) )
Polyethylene glycol (13) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-13), Polyethylene glycol (14) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-14), Polyethylene glycol (15) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-15), Polyethylene glycol (16) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-16), Polyethylene glycol (17) Cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (Ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (Ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (Ceteth-20), polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (Isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) iso cetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (Oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (Oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (Oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (Oleth-15),
Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolau reth-12),
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl stearyl ether (Cetea reth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-20).

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate.

The ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt may advantageously be sodium lime Reth-11-carboxylate can be used.

As the alkyl ether sulfate, sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can be advantageously used.

As the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative, polyethylene glycol (30) may advantageously be cholesteryl ether can be used. Also polyethylene glycol (25) soybean oil has been proven.

As ethoxylated triglycerides, the polyethylene glycol (60) Evening Prim rose glycerides are used (Evening Primrose = evening primrose).

Furthermore, it is advantageous, the Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester from the group Po lyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) gly ceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostea advice to choose polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate.

It is also convenient to use the sorbitan esters from the group of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan  monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbi to choose tanmonooleat.

As advantageous W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 Carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular re 12-18 C-atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, monoglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched ter and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms, Propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unver branched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C Atoms and sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoiso stearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol colmonocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaur sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, Chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyce rylmonocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

Favorable are those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form a sunscreen. But it is also advantageous in the sense of the present the inventions, such cosmetic and dermatological preparations erstro len, whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but nevertheless contain a content of UV-protective substances. So z. B. in day creams ge usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances incorporated.  

Also, UV protectants, as well as antioxidants and, if desired, Preservatives, effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage represents.

Accordingly, the preparations according to the present invention before preferably in addition to one or more UV filter substances according to the invention additional at least one further UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which in the What Ser- and / or the oil phase can be present.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other water-insoluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (for example MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (for example Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.

Such pigments may advantageously be superficial in the sense of the present invention be treated ("coated"), wherein, for example, an amphiphilic or hydrophobic Cha be formed or should remain preserved character. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments according to known methods with a thin be provided hydrophobic layer.

According to the invention are advantageous z. As titanium dioxide pigments coated with octylsilanol are tet. Suitable titanium dioxide particles are available under the trade name T805 from Degussa. Also particularly advantageous with aluminum stearate be coated TiO ₂ pigments, z. For example, those available under the trade name MT 100 T at the company TAYCA.

Another advantageous coating of the inorganic pigments consists of dimethyl polysiloxane (also: dimethicone), a mixture of fully methylated, linear siloxane poly monomers which are terminally blocked with trimethylsiloxy units. Especially advantageous For the purposes of the present invention are zinc oxide pigments, be in this way be be layered.  

Furthermore, a coating of the inorganic pigments with a mixture is advantageous of dimethylpolysiloxane, in particular dimethylpolysiloxane with an average Chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units, and silica gel, which is also known as Simethicone is called. It is particularly advantageous if the inorganic Pigments additionally with aluminum hydroxide or alumina hydrate (also: alumina, CAS No .: 1333-84-2). Titanium dioxides which are particularly advantageous are Simethicone and alumina are coated, wherein the coating also contains water can. An example of this is that under the trade name Eusolex T2000 at the Company Merck available titanium dioxide.

Advantageous organic pigment in the context of the present invention is 2,2'-methyl-bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [ INCI: bisoctyl triazole], which is represented by the chemical structural formula

and sold under the trade name Tinosorb® M by CIBA-Che mikalia GmbH is available.

Advantageously, preparations according to the invention contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the Absorb UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of Filterubstan zen z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of kos make available metic preparations which protect the hair or the skin from the protect entire area of ultraviolet radiation. They can also be called suns protect the hair or skin.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS no.  70356-09-1), which was sold by Givaudan under the trademark Parsol® 1789 and Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020 is sold.

Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid

and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or Triethanolammo nium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt

with the INCI name Bisimidazylate, which, for example under the Handelsbe Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann & Reimer.

Also advantageous are the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the entprechenden 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the ent speaking sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt ), which is also referred to as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:

Advantageous UV filter substances in the context of the present invention are also soge called broadband filter, d. H. Filter substances containing both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinolinyltriazine derivatives having the following structure:

wherein R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from the group of ver branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or represent a single hydrogen atom. Particular preference is given to 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: aniso triazine) , which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH, and the 4,4 ', (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4,6-tris [anilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Octyl Triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

Other UV filter substances, which are the structural motif

are advantageous UV filter substances in the context of the present invention, for example, those described in European Published Patent Application EP 570 838 A1 nen s-triazine derivatives, their chemical structure by the generic formula

is reproduced, wherein
R is a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ -alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl groups,
X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,
R _{1 is} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ -alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group the formula

means in which
A is a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ -alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
R _{2 is} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and
a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ -alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula

means in which
A is a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ -alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
when X represents an oxygen atom.

Particularly preferred UV filter substance in the context of the present invention is also an unsymmetrically substituted s-triazine whose chemical structure is represented by the formula

which is also referred to below as Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Di octylbutamidotriazone) and under the trade name UVASORB HEB is available from Sigma 3V.

Also in the European Patent Application 775,698 preferred bis-Resorcinyltriazinderivate be described whose chemical structure by generi cal formula

is reproduced, wherein R ₁ , R ₂ and A _{1 represent a} wide variety of organic radicals animals.

Advantageous in the context of the present invention are also the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) - 2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxy phenyl) -1,3,5-triazine which is 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-meth oxyethyl-carboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine which is 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy  propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4- Bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methylpyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 "-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphe nyl) -1,3,5-triazine and the 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2 "-methyl -Per pyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine.

An advantageous broadband filter in the context of the present invention is the 2,2'-methylene bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which by the chemical structural formula

and sold under the trade name Tinosorb® M by CIBA-Che mikalia GmbH is available.

Advantageous broadband filter in the context of the present invention is furthermore the 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [ (trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxa nyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisi loxane, which is represented by the chemical structural formula

is marked.  

The UV-B filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B-Fil tersubstanzen are z. B .:
3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2- ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;
Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
as well as polymers bound to UV filters.

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filter substances are z. B .:
Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or its Trietha nolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-Berizylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenme methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

A further light stabilizer filter substance which can advantageously be used according to the invention is ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is obtainable from BASF under the name Uvinul® N 539 and has the following structure:

It can also be of considerable advantage, polymer-bound or polymeric UV filters to use substances in preparations according to the present invention, esp especially those as described in WO-A-92/20690.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous, according to the invention, to obtain further UVA and / or to incorporate UV-B filters into cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example, certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethyl hexyl salicylate (= octyl salicylate), homomenthyl salicylate.

The list of said UV filters used in the context of the present invention of course, should not be limiting.

The following examples are intended to illustrate but not limit the invention. The Numbers are by weight, unless otherwise specified.  

example 1 O / W cream

Wt .-% glyceryl stearate 4.00 PEG-40 Stearate 1.00 cetyl alcohol 3.00 Caprylic / capric 5.00 mineral oil 5.00 nitroguanidine 0.10 tocopherol 0.10 Trisodium EDTA 0.10 preservative q.s. Carbomer 3.00 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 5.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 2 O / W cream

Wt .-% Glyceryl stearate SE 3.00 stearic acid 1.00 cetyl alcohol 2.00 Caprylic / capric 3.00 dicaprylyl 4.00 mineral oil 2.00 7-nitroindole 0.50 preservative q.s. Carbomer 0.10 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 3.00 Butyleneglycol 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 3 O / W cream

Wt .-% glyceryl stearate 2.00 Stearylalcohol 5.00 Caprylic / capric 4.00 octyldodecanol 2.00 TiO ₂ 1.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 1.00 Butylmethoxydibenzolymethan 0.50 S-methylthiourea 0.20 biotin 0.05 Trisodium EDTA 0.10 preservative q.s. Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 4.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 4 O / W cream

Wt .-% Polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate 3.00 cetyl alcohol 3.00 Caprylic / capric 3.00 dicaprylyl 2.00 mineral oil 3.00 iminopiperidine 0.10 Trisodium EDTA 0.10 preservative q.s. Carbomer 0.10 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 5 O / W cream

Wt .-% glyceryl stearate 2.00 sorbitan 2.00 Cetylstearylalcohol 2.00 Caprylic / capric 3.00 octyldodecanol 2.00 dicaprylyl 1.00 Aminoguanidine hemisulphate 0.10 tocopherol 0.20 preservative q.s. Carbomer 0.10 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 6 O / W cream

Wt .-% Glycerylate SE 5.00 Stearylalcohol 2.00 Caprylic / capric 2.00 octyldodecanol 2.00 dimethicone 2.00 TiO ₂ 2.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 1.00 Butylmethoxydibenzolymethan 0.50 nitroarginine 0.20 preservative q.s. Carbomer 0.15 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 7 O / W cream

Wt .-% glyceryl stearate 2.00 Cetylstearylalcohol 3.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 2.00 octyldodecanol 2.00 mineral oil 4.00 diphenyleneiodonium chloride 0.40 preservative q.s. Carbomer 0.10 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. Butyleneglycol 3.00 Alcohol Denat. 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 8 O / W cream

Wt .-% glyceryl stearate 2.00 Cetylstearylalcohol 1.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 3.00 mineral oil 2.00 diphenyleneiodonium chloride 0.40 Well ₃ HEDTA 0.20 preservative q.s. Xanthan gum 0.20 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 9 O / W cream

Wt .-% stearic acid 2.50 cetyl alcohol 3.00 octyldodecanol 4.00 cyclomethicone 0.50 nitroguanidine 0.20 preservative q.s. Carbomer 0.05 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 5.00 Alcohol Denat. 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 10 O / W cream

Wt .-% stearic acid 3.50 cetyl alcohol 4.50 Cetylstearylalcohol 0.50 octyldodecanol 6.00 cyclomethicone 2.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 1.00 Butylmethoxydibenzolymethan 0.50 norharman 0.10 tocopherol 0.05 Trisodium EDTA 0.20 preservative q.s. Carbomer 0.05 Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s. glycerin 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 11 W / O emulsion

Wt .-% Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 5.00 Anisotriazin 2.00 dioctyl 3.00 octocrylene 7.00 dioctyl 1.00 Bisimidazylat 1.00 Phenylbenzmidazolsulfonsäure 0.50 zinc oxide 3.00 dicaprylyl 10.00 dicaprylyl 5.00 cyclomethicone 2.00 PVP hexadecene copolymer 0.50 glycerin 3.00 _MgSO4 1.00 Vitamin E acetate 0.50 nitroguanidine 0.30 methylparaben 0.50 phenoxyethanol 0.50 ethanol 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 12 W / O emulsion

Wt .-% cetyl dimethicone 2.50 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 8.00 Anisotriazin 2.50 dioctyl 1.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 2.00 octocrylene 2.50 Bisimidazylat 2.00 Titanium dioxide 2.00 zinc oxide 1.00 dimethicone 4.00 cyclomethicone 25,00 octoxyglycerol 0.30 glycerin 7.50 Glycine soy 1.00 _MgSO4 0.50 Carboxy-PTIO potassium 0.10 DMDM hydantoin 0.60 phenoxyethanol 0.40 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 13 W / O emulsion

Wt .-% cetyl dimethicone 4.00 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 5.00 Anisotriazin 2.00 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 ethylhexyl triazone 4.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 4.00 dioctyl 2.00 Phenylbenzmidazolsulfonsäure 3.00 zinc oxide 0.50 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 9.00 Butyleneglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 8.00 dimethicone 5.00 PVP hexadecene copolymer 0.50 glycerin 7.50 _MgSO4 0.50 L-NIL dihydrochloride 0.05 DMDM hydantoin 0.20 methylparaben 0.15 phenoxyethanol 1.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 14 W / O emulsion

Wt .-% Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 4.50 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 4.00 Anisotriazin 2.50 dioctyl 3.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 2.00 octocrylene 2.50 Phenylbenzmidazolsulfonsäure 2.00 Titanium dioxide 3.00 mineral oil 8.00 dicaprylyl 7.00 Butyleneglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 4.00 cyclomethicone 2.00 PVP hexadecene copolymer 1.00 octoxyglycerol 0.50 glycerin 2.50 MgCl ₂ 0.70 Vitamin E acetate 1.00 Aminoguanidine hemisulphate 0.20 phenoxyethanol 0.60 ethanol 1.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 15 W / O emulsion

Wt .-% Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 4.00 Wool alcohol 0.50 Isohexadecan 1.00 myristate 0.50 Cera Microcristallina + Paraffinum Liquidum 1.00 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 0.50 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 1.00 Butyleneglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 4.00 glycerin 5.00 Vitamin E acetate 0.50 iminopiperidine 0.05 S-methylisothiourea 0.10 Well ₃ HEDTA 0.20 methylparaben q.s. phenoxyethanol q.s. Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 16 W / O emulsion

Wt .-% Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 5.00 Wool alcohol 1.50 Isohexadecan 2.00 myristate 1.50 Cera Microcristallina + Paraffinum Liquidum 2.00 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1.50 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 3.00 Butyleneglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 5.00 Shea butter 0.50 Butyleneglycol 6.00 octoxyglycerol 3.00 Vitamin E acetate 1.00 diphenyleneiodonium chloride 0.15 Well ₃ HEDTA 0.20 methylparaben q.s. phenoxyethanol q.s. ethanol 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 17 W / O emulsion

Wt .-% PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 5.00 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2.00 ethylhexyl triazone 3.00 octocrylene 4.00 Bisimidazylat 0.50 Titanium dioxide 1.50 zinc oxide 2.00 mineral oil 10.00 Butyleneglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 2.00 dicaprylyl 6.00 dimethicone 1.00 Shea butter 3.00 octoxyglycerol 1.00 Glycine soy 1.50 MgCl ₂ 1.00 Vitamin E acetate 0.25 thiocarbamate 1.00 DMDM hydantoin 0.40 methylparaben 0.25 ethanol 1.50 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 18 Hydro dispersion

Wt .-% Polyoxyethylene (20) cetylstearyl ether 1.00 Acrylates / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate cross polymer 0.50 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 ethylhexyl triazone 4.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 4.00 dioctyl 1.00 Bisimidazylat 1.00 Phenylbenzmidazolsulfonsäure 0.50 Titanium dioxide 0.50 zinc oxide 0.50 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 2.00 Butyleneglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 4.00 phenyltrimethicones 2.00 PVP hexadecene copolymer 0.50 glycerin 3.00 Vitamin E acetate 0.50 2-aminopyridine 0.10 curcumin 0.20 Koncyl-L® q.s. methylparaben q.s. phenoxyethanol q.s. ethanol 3.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 19 Hydro dispersion

Wt .-% Natriumcarbomer 0.20 Xanthan gum 0.30 Anisotriazin 1.50 dioctyl 2.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 4.00 octocrylene 4.00 zinc oxide 1.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 2.50 dicaprylyl 4.00 dicaprylyl 2.00 dimethicone 0.50 Shea butter 2.00 glycerin 7.50 iminopiperidine 0.10 DMDM hydantoin 0.60 Koncyl-L® q.s. methylparaben q.s. phenoxyethanol q.s. ethanol 2.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 20 Hydro dispersion

Wt .-% cetyl alcohol 1.00 Acrylates / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate cross polymer 0.40 Xanthan gum 0.15 butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2.00 ethylhexyl triazone 3.00 octocrylene 4.00 Bisimidazylat 0.50 Titanium dioxide 2.00 zinc oxide 3.00 Butyleneglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 2.00 dicaprylyl 6.00 dimethicone 1.00 octoxyglycerol 1.00 Glycine soy 1.50 Vitamin E acetate 0.25 thiocarbamate 0.30 DMDM hydantoin 0.40 Koncyl-L® q.s. methylparaben q.s. phenoxyethanol q.s. ethanol 1.50 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 21 Hydro dispersion

Wt .-% Polyoxyethylene (20) cetylstearyl ether 0.50 Natriumcarbomer 0.30 Acrylate / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.10 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 5.00 Anisotriazin 2.00 dioctyl 2.00 ethylhexyl triazone 4.00 dioctyl 2.00 Phenylbenzmidazolsulfonsäure 3.00 Titanium dioxide 3.00 Butylenglycoldicaprylat / dicaprate 6.00 Phenyl 0.50 PVP hexadecene copolymer 0.50 glycerin 7.50 Carboxy-PTIO potassium 0.25 N ^G -nitro-L-arginine 0.15 DMDM hydantoin 0.20 Koncyl-L® q.s. methylparaben q.s. phenoxyethanol q.s. Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 22 Hydro dispersion

Wt .-% Acrylate / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.10 Xanthan gum 0.50 ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 8.00 Anisotriazin 2.50 dioctyl 1.00 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 2.00 octocrylene 2.50 Bisimidazylat 2.00 Titanium dioxide 1.00 zinc oxide 2.00 phenyltrimethicones 2.00 PVP hexadecene copolymer 1.00 octoxyglycerol 0.50 glycerin 2.50 Vitamin E acetate 1.00 L-NIL dihydrochloride 0.60 Koncyl-L® q.s. methylparaben q.s. phenoxyethanol q.s. ethanol 1.00 Perfume q.s. water ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 23 Gel Cream

Wt .-% Acrylate / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.40 Carbomer 0.20 Xanthan gum 0.10 Cetylstearylalkohol 3.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 4.00 Caprylic / capric 3.00 cyclomethicone 5.00 Dimethicone 1.00 2-aminopyridine 0.10 glycerin 3.00 sodium hydroxide q.s. preservation q.s. Perfume q.s. Water, demineralized ad 100.00 AL = L <pH value set to 6.0

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 24 W / O Cream

Wt .-% Lameform® TGI 3.50 glycerin 3.00 Dehymuls® PGPH 3.50 iminopiperidine 0.20 preservative q.s. Perfume q.s. magnesium sulfate 0.60 isopropyl 2.00 dicaprylyl 8.00 Cetylstearylisononanoat 6.00 Water, demin. ad 100.00

The respective components of the oil or water phase are combined, the two Pha combined at 70-75 ° C and homogenized and afterwards on room temp cooled.  

Example 25 W / O / W cream

Wt .-% glyceryl stearate 3.00 PEG-100 stearate 0.75 behenyl 2.00 Caprylic / capric 8.00 octyldodecanol 5.00 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 3.00 Carboxy-PTIO potassium 0.50 _MgSO4 0.80 EDTA 0.10 preservation q.s. Perfume q.s. Water, demineralized ad 100.00 AL = L <pH adjusted to 6.0

The components of the oil phase are combined and homogenized, then with the water phase and at a temperature of 80-85 ° C (i.e., in the phase inversions temperature range of the system), then cooled to room temperature (ie out of the phase inversion temperature range of the system).

Claims (5)

1. Use of substances that prevent the NO synthase of warm-blooded Organism unfolds its effect, for the production of cosmetic or dermatologi preparations for strengthening the barrier function of the skin. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that it 0.001-10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01-1% by weight, of one or more substances which prevent the NO synthase of the warm-blooded organism from exerting its effect, preferably NO synthase inhibitors, based on the total composition of the Zube TION. 3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the substance o of the substances which prevent the NO synthase of the warm-blooded organism unfolds its effect, is or will be

• a) from the group of substances which inhibits the NO synthase (= NO synthase Inhi bitoren or NO synthase inhibitors) and / or
• b) from the group of substances that inhibit or prevent the expression of NO synthase in Warmblü term organism.

4. Use according to claim 3, characterized in that the one or more selected under (a) NO synthase inhibitor is selected from the group which comprises: Ebselen (2-phenyl-1,2-benzisoselenazol-3 ( 2H) -one), canavanine (2-amino-4-guanidinooxybutyric acid), N-acylsphingosine; 2-amino-4-methylpyridine, S-methylisothiourea, citrulline, thiocarbamate, D-glucosamine, iminopiperidine, dialkyliminopyridoline, 2-aminopyridine or iminopiperidine, 5-hetero-2-iminohexahydroazepine, fluoroacetamidine amino acids, oleic acid], aminoguanidine hemisulfate (CAS No .: [996-19-01]), (±) -2-amino-5,6-dihydro-6-methyl-4H-1,3-thiazine hydrochloride (CAS No .: [21463- 31-0]), benzamide (CAS No .: [55-21-0]), carboxy-PTIO potassium (2- (4-carboxyphenyl) -4,5-dihydro-4,4,5,5-tetrame thyl-1H-imidazolyloxy-3-oxide potassium) (CAS No .: [148819-94-7]), N ^G , N ^G -dimethyl-L-arginine dihydrochloride (CAS No .: [65005-57 -4]), diphenyleniodonium chloride (CAS No .: [244-54-2]), LN ⁵ - (1-iminoethyl) ornithine hydrochloride, (CAS No .: [36889-13-1]), LN ⁶ - (1-Iminoethyl) -lysine hydrochloride (CAS No .: [150403-89-7]), 1,5-isoquinolinediol (CAS No .: [5154-02-9]), N ^G -monomethyl-L -arginine acetate (CAS No .: [17035-90-4]), N ^G -nitro-L-arginine (CAS No .: [2149-70-4]), N ^G -nitro-L-arginine methyl ester hydrochloride ( CAS-No. : [51298-62-5]), 7-nitroindazole (CAS No .: [2942-42-9]), 1H- [1,2,4] oxadiazolo [4,3-a] quinoxalin-1-one (CAS No .: [41443-28-1]), thiocitrulline (CAS No .: [156719-37-8]), 1- (2-trifluoromethylphenyl) imidazole (CAS No .: [25371-96 -4]), (2S, 4R) -4-methylglutamic acid (CAS No .: [31137-74-3]), 3-bromo-7-nitroindazole (CAS No .: [74209-34-0]) Curcumin (1,7-bis (4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-phenyl) -1,6-heptadiene-3,5-dione) (CAS No .: [458-37-7]), 6,7- Dimethyltetrahydropterin hydrochloride (CAS No .: [167423-51-0]), diphenyleniodonium chloride (CAS No .: [4673-26-1]), N-ethyl-N'-phenylguanidine hydrochloride, α-guanidinoglutaric acid (CAS) No .: [73477-53- 9]), S-isopropylisothiourea hydrobromide (CAS No .: [4269-97-0]), N ^G , N ^G -dimethyl-L-arginine hydrochloride, S-methyl-L- thiocitrulline hydrochloride, L-NIL dihydrochloride (N ⁶ - (iminoethyl) -L-lysine dihydrochloride) (CAS No .: [159190-45-1]), L-NIO dihydrochloride (N ⁵ - (1-iminoethyl) -L Ornithine dihydrochloride) (CAS No .: [36889-13-1]), L-NMMA citrate (N ⁵ - [1-imino (me thylamino) methyl] -L-arginine citrate), 7-nitroindole (CAS No .: [2942-42-9]), 1,4-PBIT dihydrobromide (thiocarbamic acid-1,4-phenylenedi-2,1-ethanediyl ester dihydro bromide) (CAS No .: [157254-60-9]), 1,3-PBIT dihydrobromide (thiocarbamic acid-1,3-phenylenedi-2,1-ethanediyl ester dihydrobromide). 5. Use according to claim 3, characterized in that the or under (b) or inhibitors of the expression of the inducible NO synthase is selected are from the group Ubichinon Q10, the benzoquinones, dexmethasone (11β, 16α) -9- Fluoro-11,17,21-trihydroxy-16-methylpregna-1,4-diene-3,20-dione).