CN1771900B - Cosmetic composition comprising linear sulfopolyester and modified guar gum, and using method and application of composition - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition comprising linear sulfopolyester and modified guar gum, and using method and application of composition Download PDF

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CN1771900B
CN1771900B CN200510119962XA CN200510119962A CN1771900B CN 1771900 B CN1771900 B CN 1771900B CN 200510119962X A CN200510119962X A CN 200510119962XA CN 200510119962 A CN200510119962 A CN 200510119962A CN 1771900 B CN1771900 B CN 1771900B
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cosmetic composition
copolymers
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silicone
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CN1771900A (en
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塞西尔·贝博特
吕迪维内·洛朗
萨班·弗里尼奥
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85Polyesters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5422Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge nonionic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5424Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge anionic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594Mixtures of polymers

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Abstract

Cosmetic composition in a medium, comprises at least a linear sulfonic polyester dispersible in water and at least a modified guar gum. The present disclosure relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersible linear sulphonic polyester and at least one modified guar gum, methods employing this composition, and uses thereof.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a linear sulfopolyester and a modified guar gum, and method for using same and uses thereof
Technical Field
The subject of the present application is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersed linear sulfopolyester and at least one modified guar gum, and the method of using this composition. The present application also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersed linear sulfopolyester and at least one modified guar gum, for fixing the hairstyle.
Background
Cosmetic compositions for styling and/or maintaining the hairstyle may be spray compositions consisting essentially of a solution, usually in an alcoholic solution, and one or more components known as fixing ingredients, usually polymeric resins, the function of which is to form links between the hairs or to coat the hairs. These fixing ingredients are usually formulated in a mixture with various cosmetic adjuvants.
These cosmetic compositions are usually packaged in the form of pump-action sprays, or in suitable aerosol containers pressurized with a propellant; aerosol systems contain a liquid phase (or dispensable) on the one hand and a propellant on the other hand.
Styling compositions in the form of gels, creams or foams may also be used.
Once applied to the hair, the fixative compound should fix the hair.
Indeed, when in contact with water for a long time, for example when in contact with rain or sweat or bathing: in a sea water bath or swimming pools, the polymers generally used as setting agents in setting compositions do not maintain the setting of the hairstyle.
Disclosure of Invention
The applicant company has surprisingly and advantageously found that: cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersed linear sulfopolyester and at least one modified guar gum, make it possible not only to fix and style the hair, but also to maintain the style when the hair is in contact with water for a prolonged period of time.
Within the meaning of the present application, this phenomenon is referred to as "waterproofing".
The term "long time", in the meaning of the present application, is understood to mean a time of contact with water of at least 1 minute, preferably 10 minutes, more preferably 20 minutes.
The composition of the invention also makes it possible to obtain a hairstyle resistant to air humidity.
The composition according to the invention is excellent in fixing and maintaining the hairstyle, that is to say the setting effect lasts for a whole day, even for several days, and exhibits good water repellency, in particular able to withstand multiple baths; these compositions also show the advantage of being washable when shampooed.
These compositions also have good cosmetic properties.
The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersed linear sulfopolyester and at least one modified guar gum.
Another subject of the present invention is a method for styling or maintaining the hairstyle using the cosmetic composition of the present invention.
A third subject of the present invention relates to the use, as a styling composition, of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersed linear sulfopolyester and at least one modified guar gum, for fixing and maintaining the hairstyle, in particular when the latter is in contact with water for a prolonged period of time, that is to say in the case of contact with rain or sweat or when swimming: such as a sea water bath or swimming in a swimming pool. According to a third subject of the invention, a water-repellent hairstyle (styling of the hair) can be obtained using the composition.
According to a third subject of the present invention, the cosmetic composition used according to the present invention may be provided in various forms: emulsions, sprays, foams, gels or creams.
Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following description and examples.
The term "styling cosmetic composition" is understood, within the meaning of the present application, to be a composition for shaping or maintaining the hairstyle.
The cosmetically acceptable medium used in the compositions herein is an aqueous, aqueous/alcoholic or alcoholic medium, optionally comprising at least one additional organic solvent.
The alcohol used in the composition of the present invention is a monohydric alkanol selected from the group consisting of lower C1-C4Alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; preferably, the alcohol used is ethanol.
The concentration of the alcohol in the composition of the present invention is 0 to 50% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Additional organic solvents useful in the compositions of the present invention include polyols such as propylene glycol, polyol ethers, and mixtures thereof.
The concentration of the additional organic solvent used in the composition of the present invention is 0 to 30% by weight, preferably 0 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
The compositions of the present invention comprise a linear sulfopolyester dispersed in water.
The term "water-dispersible linear sulfopolyester" is understood to mean any sulfopolyester capable of forming a dispersion which is a two-phase system in which the first phase is formed by finely divided particles uniformly distributed in the second phase, which is the continuous phase.
The term "sulfopolyester" is understood to mean a polyester prepared from at least one dicarboxylic acid or one of its esters, at least one diol and at least one aromatic ring substituted by-SO3Copolyesters formed by polycondensation of difunctional sulfoaryl-dicarboxylic compounds substituted by M groups, where M represents a hydrogen atom or a metal ion, e.g. Na+、Li+Or K+
The weight average molecular weight of the water dispersible linear sulfopolyester is generally from about 1000 to 60000, and preferably from 4000 to 20000. As determined by gel permeation chromatography (or GPC).
These sulfopolyesters typically have a glass transition temperature (Tg) of from 10 ℃ to 100 ℃. Preferably, the polyester used has a Tg of greater than or equal to 50 ℃.
Glass transition temperature (Tg) was measured by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) according to the standard ASTM D3418-97.
They are described in detail in patent applications US 3734874, US 3779993, US 4119680, US 4300580, US 4973656, US 5660816, US 5662893 and US 5674479.
The sulfopolyesters preferably used in the present invention comprise at least units derived from isophthalic acid, sulfoaryl dicarboxylate and diethylene glycol, more specifically, the sulfopolyesters used in the present invention are derived from isophthalic acid, the sodium salt of sulfoisophthalic acid, diethylene glycol and 1, 4-cyclohexanedimethanol.
As examples of sulfopolyesters, mention may be made in particular of the sulfopolyesters known under the name INCI diethylene glycol/CHDM/isophthalate/SIP, and those sold by Eastman Chemical under the trade name "Eastman AQ Polymer" (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S, AQ48 Ultra).
The concentration of the water dispersible linear sulfopolyester used in the composition of the present invention is 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably 5 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one modified guar.
The term "modified guar" is understood, in the meaning of the present invention, to be substituted by at least one C1-8Alkylated guar, with at least one C1-8Hydroxyalkyl hydroxyalkylated guar gum or guar gum with at least one C1-8Acyl acylated guarAnd (6) gluing.
Hydroxypropylated guar gums are preferred, such as the guar sold by Rhodia under the trade name Jaguar HP 105.
The concentration of the modified guar gum used in the composition of the present invention is 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the ratio of water-dispersible linear sulfopolyester/modified guar is from 0.01 to 100, preferably from 1 to 75, more preferably from 2 to 50.
The compositions of the present application may also contain one or more additional cosmetic adjuvants, such as those described hereinafter.
All anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic immobilizing polymers and mixtures thereof used in the art can be used in the compositions of the present application.
The additional fixing polymer may be soluble in a cosmetically acceptable medium or insoluble in this same medium, in which case a dispersion form (emulsion or pseudo-emulsion) of solid or liquid polymer particles is used.
The anionic fixing polymers generally used are polymers containing groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acids and having a number average molecular weight of about 500-5000000.
The carboxyl groups are provided by unsaturated mono-or dicarboxylic acid monomers, for example monomers corresponding to the general formula:
Figure B200510119962XD00041
wherein n is an integer of 0 to 10, A1Represents a methylene group, when n is greater than 1, optionally linked to a carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to an adjacent methylene group through a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, R7Represents a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, R8Represents a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group or a carboxyl group, R9Represents a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group or-CH2-COOH, phenyl or benzyl.
In the above formula, the lower alkyl group preferably represents a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, particularly methyl and ethyl.
Preferably the anionic fixing polymer is selected from: homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid or salts thereof, crotonic acid copolymers, C4-C8Copolymers of monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides, polyacrylamides containing carboxylate groups, homo-or copolymers containing sulfo groups, anionic polyurethanes and anionic grafted silicone polymers.
Preferred anionic fixing polymers containing carboxyl groups in the present invention are:
A) acrylic or methacrylic acid homo-or copolymers, or salts thereof, especially those sold by Allied Colloid
Figure B200510119962XD00051
Or sold by the K products and BASF corporation
Figure B200510119962XD00052
Copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide, sold under the name Reten 421, 423 or 425 by the Hercules company in the form of their sodium salts, or of the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids.
B) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monovinyl monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, acrylates or methacrylates, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1222944 and German application 2330956, such copolymers containing in their chain optionally N-alkylated and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide units, as described in particular in Luxembourg patent applications 75370 and 75371 and sold under the trade name Quadramer by the company American Cyanamid. Mention may also be made of acrylic acid and C1-C4Copolymers of alkyl methacrylates and vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and methacrylic acid C1-C20Terpolymers of alkyl esters, e.g. of lauryl methacrylate, e.g. sold under the trade name ISP
Figure B200510119962XD00053
And methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/tert-butyl acrylate terpolymers, such as those sold under the trade name BASF
Figure B200510119962XD00054
The product of (1).
Mention may also be made of the company Amerchol under the trade name
Figure B200510119962XD00055
Methacrylic acid/acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers are sold as aqueous dispersions.
C) Copolymers of crotonic acid, for example those containing vinyl acetate or propionate units in the chain and optionally further monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ethers or vinyl esters of saturated carboxylic acids which are linear or branched and contain long hydrocarbon chains, for example those containing at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers being optionally grafted or crosslinked, or alternatively another monomer having a vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester of an α -or β -cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described in particular in french patents 1222944, 1580545, 2265782, 2265781, 1564110 and 2439798. Commercially available products belonging to this class are resins sold by National Starch 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10.
D)C4-C8A copolymer of a monounsaturated carboxylic acid or anhydride selected from:
-a copolymer comprising: (i) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides, and (ii) at least one member selected from the group consisting of vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, ethyleneHalides, styrene derivatives, or monomers of acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally mono-esterified or mono-amidated. Such polymers are described in particular in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2047398, 2723248, 2102113 and German patent No. 839805. The product sold on the market, in particular by the ISP company, is known by the trade name
Figure B200510119962XD00056
Or products of ES.
-a copolymer comprising: (i) one or more maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydride units, and (ii) one or more monomers selected from allyl or methallyl esters optionally containing in the chain of the allyl or methallyl ester one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, alpha-olefin, acrylate or methacrylate, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone groups,
the anhydride functionality of these copolymers is optionally mono-esterified or mono-amidated.
These polymers are, for example, described in French patents 2350384 and 2357241 of the applicant company.
E) A polyacrylamide comprising carboxylate groups.
Homopolymers and copolymers containing sulfo groups are polymers containing vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, naphthalenesulfonic acid or acrylamidoalkylsulfonic acid units.
These polymers may be chosen in particular from:
salts of polyvinylsulfonic acids having a molecular weight of about 1000-100000, and copolymers with unsaturated comonomers such as acrylic or methacrylic acid and their esters and also acrylamide and its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;
salts of polystyrene sulfonic acid, for example sold by the National starch company under the trade name
Figure B200510119962XD00061
And
Figure B200510119962XD00062
sodium salt of (a). These compounds are described in French patent 2198719.
Salts of polyacrylamide sulphonic acids, such as those mentioned in us patent 4128631, and more specifically, polyacrylamide ethyl propane sulphonic acid sold by Henkel under the trade name Cosmedia Polymer HSP 1180.
As further anionic fixing polymers which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the anionic branched block polymers sold under the name Fixate G-100 by the company Noveon.
According to the invention, the anionic fixing polymer is preferably chosen from acrylic copolymers such as the BASF company, in particular under the trade name BASF
Figure B200510119962XD00063
Acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-t-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold; copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the trade name Resin28-29-30 by National Starch; polymers derived from maleic, fumaric and itaconic acids or anhydrides and vinyl ethers, vinyl esters, vinyl halides, styrene derivatives, acrylic acid and esters thereof, for example under the trade name ISP
Figure B200510119962XD00064
Sold monoesterified methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers; under the trade name Rohm Pharma
Figure B200510119962XD00065
Copolymers of methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate sold; under the trade name BASF corporation
Figure B200510119962XD00066
Or copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold by MAE; vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers sold by BASF under the trade name Luviset CA 66; under the trade name BASF corporation
Figure B200510119962XD00067
Copolymers of vinyl acetate/crotonic acid grafted with polyethylene glycol sold or sold under the name of Fixate G-100 by Noveon
Of the above-mentioned anionic fixing polymers, the use of the ISP company under the trade name of
Figure B200510119962XD00071
Sold monoesterified methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers; the trade name sold by BASF corporation is
Figure B200510119962XD00072
Acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-t-butylacrylamide terpolymer of (a); sold by Rohm Pharma company under the trade name of
Figure B200510119962XD00073
Copolymers of methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate; the terpolymer of vinyl acetate/vinyl tertbutylbenzoate/crotonic acid and the terpolymer of crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate sold by National Starch company under the trade names of Resin 28-29-30; the trade name sold by BASF corporation is
Figure B200510119962XD00074
Copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate of MAEX or MAE; the trade name of the product sold by ISP company is
Figure B200510119962XD00075
Vinyl pyrrolidone/acrylic acid/methacrylic acidA lauryl ester terpolymer or a polymer sold by Noveon under the trade name of fix G-100.
The cationic, fixed film-forming polymers which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from polymers containing primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which form part of or are directly linked to the polymer chain, the molecular weight of the polymer being from 500 to about 5000000, preferably from 1000 to 3000000.
The cationic fixing film-forming polymer is preferably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers of acrylates or methacrylates or amides containing amine functions, cationic polysaccharides, quaternized copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, and chitosan.
Among these polymers, the following cationic polymers may be specifically mentioned:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from esters or amides of acrylic or methacrylic acid, containing at least one unit of formula:
wherein:
R3represents a hydrogen atom or CH3A group;
a is a straight chain or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
R4、R5、R6the same or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group;
R1and R2The same or different, each represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
x represents a methyl sulfate anion or a halogen such as chlorine or bromine.
(1) Copolymers of class also contain one or more units derived from a comonomer which may be selected from: acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, substituted by a lower group (C) on the nitrogen atom1-C4) Alkyl-substituted acrylamides and methacrylamides, radicals derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
Thus, mention may be made, among the copolymers of type (1):
copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or methyl halide, such as those sold by the Hercules company
Figure B200510119962XD00081
The product of (a) above (b),
copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, as disclosed in patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BincA Quat P100 by CibcA-Geigy,
copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethyl methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium sulphate, such as the product sold under the trade name Reten by the company Hercules,
copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate, quaternized or not, such as sold under the trade name ISPArticles of commerce such as
Figure B200510119962XD00083
OrOr under the trade name'
Figure B200510119962XD00085
958 and 937 ". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2077143 and 2393573,
polymers containing fatty chains and containing vinylpyrrolidone units, such as products sold under the names Styleze W20 and Styleze W10 by ISP.
Terpolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
and quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as those sold under the trade name ISP
Figure B200510119962XD00086
The product of (1).
(2) Cationic polysaccharides, preferably comprising quaternary amines, such as those described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3589578 and 4031307, such as guar gum containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Commercially available products of this kind are available from the company Meyhall under the trade names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15 and Jaguar C17.
(3) Quaternized copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl imidazole;
(4) chitosan or a salt thereof; salts which can be used are in particular chitosan acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidone carboxylate.
Among these compounds, mention may be made of chitosan having a deacetylation degree of 90.5% by weight, such as those sold by the company Aber Technologies under the trade name Kytan Brut Standard and those sold by the company Amerchol under the trade name Kytan Brut Standard
Figure B200510119962XD00091
The salt of chitosan pyrrolidone carboxylic acid of (1).
(5) Cationic cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose grafted with water-soluble monomers containing quaternary ammonium groups or copolymers of cellulose derivatives, are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4131576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose or hydroxypropyl cellulose grafted with methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium or dimethyldiallyl ammonium salts in particular.
More specifically, the products under this definition are sold by National Starch under the trade names "Celquat L200" and "Celquat H100".
The amphoteric fixing polymer which can be used in the present invention can be chosen from polymers comprising B and C units randomly distributed in the polymer chain, wherein B represents a unit derived from a monomer containing at least one basic nitrogen atom, C represents a unit derived from an acidic monomer containing one or more carboxyl or sulfo groups, or B and C can represent groups derived from a carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomer;
b and C may also represent a cationic polymer chain containing primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, at least one of the amine groups bearing a carboxyl or sulfo group attached via a hydrocarbyl group; or B and C form part of a polymer chain containing α, β -dicarboxyethylene units, wherein one carboxyl group has been used to react with a polyamine containing one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
Preferably, the amphiphilic fixing polymer is selected from the group consisting of copolymers containing acidic vinyl units and containing basic vinyl units, acylated and crosslinked polyaminoamides, polymers containing zwitterionic units, polymers derived from chitosan, modified (C)1-C5) Alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers, amphoteric polyurethanes, and amphoteric grafted silicone polymers.
More particularly preferred amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the above definitions are selected from the following polymers:
1) copolymers containing acidic vinyl units and containing basic vinyl units, such as those copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of: monomers derived from vinyl compounds having a carboxyl group, more specifically such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid or α -chloroacrylic acid; and basic monomers derived from substituted vinyl compounds containing at least one basic atom, such as dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates and acrylates, or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamides and acrylamides, more specifically. Such compounds are disclosed in U.S. patent 3836537.
2) A polymer comprising units derived from:
a) at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylamide or methacrylamide substituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl group,
b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxyl groups, and
c) at least one basic comonomer, such as esters of acrylic and methacrylic acid containing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents, and quaternization products of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are particularly preferred according to the invention are those in which the alkyl radical contains 2 to 12 carbon atoms, more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide or N-dodecylacrylamide, and the corresponding methacrylamides.
The acidic comonomer is more particularly chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid, and alkyl monoesters of maleic acid or fumaric acid or anhydrides containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Preferred basic comonomers are the methacrylates of aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N' -dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl.
The CTFA name (4 th edition, 1991) is a copolymer of octylacrylamide/acrylate/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as that available under the trade name of National Starch
Figure B200510119962XD00101
Or
Figure B200510119962XD00102
47 are particularly useful.
(3) Partially or fully acylated and crosslinked polyaminoamides derived from polyaminoamides of the general formula II:
Figure B200510119962XD00103
wherein R is10Denotes a divalent radical derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, an aliphatic mono-or dicarboxylic acid containing ethylenic double bonds, an ester of a lower alkanol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids, or denotes a radical derived from the addition of any of the said acids to a bis-primary or bis-secondary amine, Z denotes a radical derived from a bis-primary, mono-or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine, and preferably denotes:
a)60 to 100 mol% of radicals (III)
Figure B200510119962XD00104
Wherein x is 2 and p is 2 or 3, or x is 3 and p is 2
The group is derived from diethylenetriamine, triethylenetetramine or dipropylenetriamine;
b)0 to 40 mol% of the above-mentioned groups (III), wherein x ═ 2 and p ═ 1, and derived from ethylenediamine, or from piperazine:
Figure B200510119962XD00111
c)0-20 mol% of-NH- (CH) derived from hexamethylenediamine2)6-an NH-group,
these polyaminoamides are crosslinked by addition of bifunctional crosslinking agents selected from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, bisanhydrides or diunsaturated derivatives, in an amount of 0.025 to 0.35mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide, and acylated by reaction with acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or alkanesultone or salts thereof.
The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2, 4-trimethyladipic acid or 2, 4, 4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid; acids containing ethylenic double bonds, such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or itaconic acid.
The alkanesultone used for the acylation is preferably propane sultone or butane sultone; the salt of the alkylating agent is preferably a sodium or potassium salt.
(4) A polymer comprising zwitterionic units of formula IV:
Figure B200510119962XD00112
wherein R is11Represents a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent integers from 1 to 3, R12And R13Represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, R14And R15Represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R14And R15The total number of carbon atoms does not exceed 10.
The polymers containing such units may also contain units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers, such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate, or alkyl esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, acrylamide or methacrylamide, or vinyl acetate.
By way of example, mention may be made of a methyl methacrylate/dimethylcarboxymethylaminoethylmethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the one sold under the name Diadormer Z301 by the company Sandoz.
(5) A polymer derived from chitosan comprising monomer units of the formula:
Figure B200510119962XD00121
the proportion of the units D is 0-30%, the proportion of the units E is 5-50%, and the proportion of the units F is 30-90%, it can be understood that R in the units F is16Represents a group having the general formula:
Figure B200510119962XD00122
wherein if q is 0, then R17、R18And R19Which are identical or different and each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue, which are optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and/or are optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulfo groups, or an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group bears an amino residue, in which case at least one R17、R18And R19The radicals are hydrogen atoms;
or,if q is 1, then R17、R18And R19Each represents a hydrogen atom, and salts of these compounds with bases or acids.
(6) Polymers corresponding to formula (V), such as those disclosed in french patent 140066:
wherein R is20Represents a hydrogen atom or CH3O、CH3CH2O or phenyl, R21Represents a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, R22Represents a hydrogen atom or C1-C6Lower alkyl, e.g. methyl or ethyl, R23Is represented by C1-C6Lower alkyl, e.g. methyl or ethyl, or corresponding to the formula-R24-N(R22)2Group of (A), R24represents-CH2-CH2-、-CH2-CH2-CH2-or-CH2-CH(CH3) A group R22Have the meaning indicated above.
(7) Polymers derived from N-carboxyalkylated chitosan, such as N- (carboxymethyl) chitosan or N- (carboxybutyl) chitosan sold under the trade name "Evalsan" by Jan Dekker, Inc.
(8) Amphoteric polymers of the type-D-X-D-X-selected from:
a) a polymer obtained by reacting chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate with a compound containing at least one unit of the formula:
-D-X-D-X-D- (VI)
wherein D represents the following group:
Figure B200510119962XD00132
x represents the symbols E or E', E or E, which are identical or different, represent a divalent radical which is a linear or branched alkylene radical having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups, which may additionally contain oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur atoms, or 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms are present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups or hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups.
b) A polymer of the formula:
-D-X-D-X- (VI′)
wherein D represents the following group:
x represents the symbol E or E ', and at least one E ', E has the same meaning as above, E ' represents a divalent group which is a linear or branched alkylene group with up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and contains one or more nitrogen atoms substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by oxygen atoms and having to contain one or more carboxyl functions and one or more hydroxyl functions, and is betaine-bonded by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.
(9) Partially modified by half-amidation with N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamines, e.g. N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine, or by half-esterification with N, N-dialkylaminoalkanols (C)1-C5) Alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers. These copolymers may also contain other vinyl comonomers such as vinyl caprolactam.
The above-mentioned amphoteric fixingOf the fixed polymers, the amphoteric fixed polymers most particularly preferred in the context of the invention are those of the class (3), for example the copolymer of the CTFA name octylacrylamide/acrylate/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, for example the National Starch company under the trade name
Figure B200510119962XD00142
71 or
Figure B200510119962XD00143
The product sold, and polymers of type (4), for example methyl methacrylate/dimethylcarboxymethyl aminoethyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the one sold by Sandoz under the name Diadormer Z301.
Nonionic fixing polymers useful in the present invention are selected from, for example:
-a polyalkyloxazoline;
-a vinyl acetate homopolymer;
vinyl acetate copolymers, for example copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic esters, copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic esters, such as dibutyl maleate;
acrylate homopolymers and copolymers, for example copolymers of alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, e.g. Rohm&The trade name sold by Haas company is
Figure B200510119962XD00144
Andd under the trade name 8845 from BASF corporation and under the trade name Hoechst corporation
Figure B200510119962XD00146
Producing a product;
-copolymers of acrylonitrile and nonionic monomers selected, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; mention may be made of the product sold by Rohm & Haas under the trade name CJ 0601B;
-a styrene homopolymer;
styrene copolymers, for example, copolymers of styrene and of alkyl (meth) acrylates, such as those sold under the trade name Hoechst
Figure B200510119962XD00151
And
Figure B200510119962XD00152
6070, a product of; or
Figure B200510119962XD00153
The trade name sold by the company is
Figure B200510119962XD00154
Andthe product of (1); copolymers of styrene, alkyl methacrylate and alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and butadiene; or a copolymer of styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine;
-a polyamide;
homopolymers of vinyl lactams other than homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, for example sold under the trade name BASF
Figure B200510119962XD00156
The polyvinyl caprolactam of (1); and
vinyl lactam copolymers, for example sold under the trade name BASF
Figure B200510119962XD00157
Poly (vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymers of VPC55K65W, poly (vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers, for example sold under the trade name ISPOf BASF corporation
Figure B200510119962XD00159
VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 27; and poly (vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers, for example sold under the trade name BASF
Figure B200510119962XD001510
The product of (1).
The alkyl groups of the above-mentioned nonionic polymers preferably have 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
According to the invention, it is also possible to use anchoring polymers of the grafted silicone type, comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of non-silicone organic chains, one of the two portions constituting the backbone of the polymer and the other portion being grafted onto said backbone.
These polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A-0412704, EP-A-0412707, EP-A-0640105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-0582152 and WO 93/23009 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 4693935, 4728571 and 4972037.
These polymers may be amphoteric, anionic or nonionic, and preferably anionic or nonionic.
Such polymers are, for example, copolymers obtainable by free-radical polymerization of a mixture of monomers consisting of:
a) 50-90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate,
b) from 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid,
c) 5-40% by weight of a siloxane macromer of the formula;
Figure B200510119962XD00161
wherein v is a number from 5 to 700, calculated as weight percent relative to the total weight of the monomers.
Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are, in particular, Polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which mixed polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic type and polyalkyl (meth) acrylate type are grafted via a linkage of the thioacrylic type; and Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) on which polymer units of the polyisobutyl (meth) acrylate type are grafted by a linkage of the thiopropylene type.
As other types of silicone fixing polymers, mention may be made of those sold by BASFAnd (5) producing the product.
As fixing polymers it is also possible to use functionalized or non-functionalized, silicone or non-silicone, cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.
Polyurethanes to which the invention is particularly directed are described in the applications EP 0751162, EP 0637600, EP 0648485 and FR 2743297, the Applicant of which is the owner, and in the applications EP 0656021 and WO 94/03510 by BASF and in the application EP 0619111 by National starch.
As polyurethanes particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made of those sold by BASF corporation under the trade name
Figure B200510119962XD00163
And
Figure B200510119962XD00164
the product of (1).
When the composition according to the invention contains one or more additional fixing polymers, their concentration is between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The compositions of the present application may also comprise, in addition to the modified guar gum, at least one additional thickening polymer as an additional cosmetic adjuvant, also known as "rheology modifying benefit".
Rheology modifiers can be chosen from fatty acid amides (coconut diethanol-or monoethanolamides, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamides), cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), homopolymers of crosslinked acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and associative (associative) polymers.
The associative polymers used in the present invention are water-soluble polymers capable of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules in an aqueous medium.
They contain in their chemical structure a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part characterized by at least one fatty chain.
Associative polymers useful in the present invention may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
The concentration of the additional thickening polymer is 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The compositions of the present application may also comprise, as additional cosmetic auxiliary, a compound chosen from silicones, silicone-containing fatty substances or silicone-free fatty substances.
The silicones useful in the compositions of the present invention can be linear, cyclic, branched or unbranched and volatile or nonvolatile. They may be in dissolved, dispersed or microdispersed form and may be provided in the form of an oil, resin or gum. They may in particular be polyorganosiloxanes insoluble in a cosmetically acceptable medium.
Organopolysiloxane is defined in more detail by Walter Noll in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones "(1968) (Academic Press). They may be volatile or non-volatile.
When they are volatile, the polysiloxanes are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 ℃ and 260 ℃, and more particularly:
(i) cyclic polysiloxanes containing 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the trade name "vollate Silicone 7207" or sildione 70045V 2 sold by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold by Union Carbide under the trade name "vollate Silicone 7158", or "sildione 70045V 5" sold by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of cyclic copolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the one sold under the trade name "Silicone latex FZ 3109" by the company union carbide, having the following chemical structure:
mixtures of cyclic siloxanes with silicon-derived organic compounds which may be mentioned, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and 1, 1 '-oxy (2, 2, 2', 2 ', 3, 3' -hexamethylsiloxy) dineopentane;
(ii) containing 2-9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5X 10 at 25 DEG C-6m2Linear volatile siloxanes in s. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the trade name "SH 200" by Toray Silicone. Siloxanes falling within this class are also disclosed in Cosmetics and Toiletries, volume 91, Jan 76, pages 27-32, Todd&Byers "vollate silicon Fluid for Cosmetics".
Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made in particular of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.
The organomodified silicones useful in the present invention are silicones as defined above and contain within their structure one or more organofunctional groups linked via a hydrocarbon group.
Among the organomodified siloxanes, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes containing:
optionally containing C6-C24Alkyl polyethenoxy and/or polypropoxy groups, e.g. the product of dimethicone copolyol sold under the trade name DC 1248 by the company Dow Corning, or the oil supplied by the company Union carbideL7500, L77 or L711, and sold under the trade name Q25200 by Dow Corning Corp (C)12) An alkylmethylsiloxane copolyol;
substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups, such as those sold under the trade names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the Genesee company and those sold under the trade names Q28220 and Dow Corning929 or 939 by the Dow Corning company. Said substituted aminating group being in particular C1-C4An aminoalkyl group;
thiol groups, such as the products sold under the trade names "GP 72A" and "GP 71" by genese;
an alkoxylated group, e.g. ofProducts sold under the trade name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil supplied by Goldschmidt
Figure B200510119962XD00182
2434 and 2440;
hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxyalkyl functions, disclosed in French patent application FR-A-8516334;
acyloxyalkyl radicals, such as the polyorganosiloxanes disclosed in patent US-A-4957732;
anionic groups of carboxylic acids, such as those disclosed in patent EP 186507 by Chisso; anionic groups of the alkylcarboxyl type, such as those present in: product X-22-3701E of Shin-Etsu corporation; 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonates; or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfates, for example, under the trade name Goldschmidt
Figure B200510119962XD00183
And "
Figure B200510119962XD00184
S255 "products sold.
Hydroxylamido groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes disclosed in patent application EP 342834. Mention may be made, for example, of products Q2-8413 from Dow Corning.
The silicone oils used in the compositions of the invention are volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes containing linear or cyclic siloxane chains, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclomethicones (cyclomethicones), such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes which contain alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups as side chains or at the end of siloxane chains, where these groups contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated polysiloxanes, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl (trimethylsiloxy) diphenylsiloxane, diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, diphenyl (methyldiphenyl) trisiloxane, (2-phenylethyl) trimethylsiloxysilicate and polymethylphenylsiloxane: and mixtures thereof
The silicone gum used in the composition of the present invention is a polydiorganosiloxane having a high molecular weight of 200000 to 2000000. They may be used alone or in the form of a solvent mixture and may be selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils, polymethylphenylsiloxane oils, polydiphenyldimethylsiloxane oils, isoparaffins, methylene chloride, pentanes, hydrocarbons or mixtures thereof.
The silicone gums preferably used have a molecular weight of less than 1500000. Silicone gums are, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes, polyphenylmethylsiloxanes, poly (diphenylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane) s, poly (dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane) s, poly (dimethylsiloxane/phenylmethylsiloxane) s or poly (diphenylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane).
These silicone gums may be terminated at the chain ends with trimethylsilyl or dimethylhydroxysilyl groups.
Silicone resins useful in the compositions of the present invention are those comprising R2SiO2/2、RSiO3/2And SiO4/2A cross-linked siloxane system of units wherein R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1-6 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Particularly preferred among these products is that in which R represents C1-C6Lower alkyl or phenyl silicone resins.
The silicone-free fatty substances which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are organic or inorganic, natural or synthetic, silicone-free oils, waxes or resins.
In the meaning of the present invention, an oil is a lipophilic compound which is liquid at room temperature (about 25 ℃) with a reversible solid/liquid change state. Animal oils and vegetable oils contain triesters of propane-1, 2, 3-triol as a main component.
Mention may be made, for example, of oils which can be used in the compositions according to the invention:
hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic acid or octanoic acid triglycerides, or else for example sunflower, corn, soybean, cucumber, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, almond, macadamia, arara, castor or avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acid, for example the products sold by the firm arisines Dubois company or the products sold under the trade names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or shea butter oil;
synthetic esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, e.g. of the formula R6COOR7And R6OR7Wherein R is6Represents a fatty acid residue having 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R7Represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyhydric alcohol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate;
linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, or hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam oil;
liquid fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol or linolenyl alcohol;
alkoxylated, in particular ethoxylated, fatty alcohols, such as oleth-12.
Fluorinated oils containing in part hydrocarbons, such as those described in document JP-A-2295912. Mention may also be made, as fluorinated oils, of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro (1, 3-dimethylcyclohexane), for example: by BNFL Fluorochemicals by name
Figure B200510119962XD00201
And
Figure B200510119962XD00202
a product for sale; perfluoro (1, 2-dimethylcyclobutane); perfluoroalkanes, e.g. under the trade name 3M
Figure B200510119962XD00203
And
Figure B200510119962XD00204
dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, also sold under the name AtochemBromoperfluorooctane for sale; nonafluoromethoxybutane as described by the 3M company under the name "MSX
Figure B200510119962XD00206
"products sold, and nonafluoroethoxy isobutane; or perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as those known by the 3M company4- (trifluoromethyl) perfluoromorpholine is sold.
The term "hydrocarbon oil" in the above list of oils means any oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
In the meaning of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (about 25 ℃), exhibits a reversible change in the solid/liquid state, has a melting point of greater than about 40 ℃, can be as high as 200 ℃, and exhibits an anisotropic crystal arrangement in the solid state. Animal and vegetable waxes comprise, as an essential constituent, carboxylic acid esters of long-chain alcohols. Typically, the size of the crystals of the wax causes the crystals to diffract and/or scatter light, rendering a composition containing the crystals more or less opaque turbid in appearance. When the wax reaches its melting point, it is miscible with the oil and forms a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but when the temperature of the mixture drops to room temperature, the wax in the oil of the mixture recrystallizes and can be observed microscopically and visually.
Waxes which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of waxes of animal origin such as: beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; vegetable waxes such as sunflower wax, rice wax or apple peel wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, japan wax, cocoa butter, cork fibre wax or sugar cane wax; mineral waxes such as paraffin, vaseline, montan or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene wax or fischer-tropsch wax; and mixtures thereof.
The concentration of the compound selected from the group consisting of silicone, silicone-containing fatty substances and silicone-free fatty substances is from 0.01 to 20%, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The styling compositions of the invention additionally comprise at least one additive chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric polymers other than the fixing polymer used in the compositions of the invention, ceramides and pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, water-and fat-soluble sunscreens which may or may not contain silicones, solid fillers and microparticles, such as coloured or colourless inorganic and organic pigments, pearlescers and opacifiers, glitters, active microparticles, dyes, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilisers, acidifying agents, basifying agents, neutralising agents, inorganic and organic thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, penetrants, fragrances, preservatives.
The skilled person will be careful to select the optional additives and their amounts so that they do not impair the properties of the composition of the invention.
These additives are present in the composition of the invention in an amount of from 0 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
The following examples are illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the invention in any way.
Examples
The following preparations A and B were prepared
Eastman AQ55S sold by Eastman is a copolymer of diethylene glycol/1, 4-cyclohexanedimethanol/isophthalate/sulfoisophthalate.
Procedure
-2 g of the formulation to be tested is applied to a lock of natural hair weighing 2.7g and having a length of 27 cm.
-rolling the treated hair on a curler with a diameter of 1cm and shaping it.
-drying it in air and then gently unrolling the hair from the curler.
The hair thus shaped was immersed in a 8 liter saline bath (3% NaCl) at room temperature and magnetically stirred at 100 revolutions per minute.
-measuring the length of the lock of hair over time, thereby evaluating the hold effect of the hair styling.
Measurement of holding effect of hair styling:
hold effect of hair styling%: (L)i-L)/(Li-L0)*100
L: length of lock of hair curled at time t
L0: length of the curly lock of hair after styling and removal from the curler
Li: length of the lock of hair before shaping with curlers
Figure B200510119962XD00231

Claims (32)

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersed linear sulfopolyester obtained by reacting at least one dicarboxylic acid or one of its esters, at least one diol and at least one modified guar gum with-SO-substituted on the aromatic ring, and at least one modified guar gum3Obtained by polycondensation of difunctional sulfoaryl dicarboxyl compounds substituted by M groups, in which M represents a hydrogen atom or a metal ion, and the modified guar is obtained by modification with at least one C1-8Alkylated guar with at least one C1-8Hydroxyalkyl radicalGuar gums hydroxyalkylated with groups or with at least one C1-8Alkyl acylated guar gum.
2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the water-dispersed linear sulfopolyester is derived from isophthalic acid, the sodium salt of sulfoisophthalic acid, diethylene glycol, and 1, 4-cyclohexanedimethanol.
3. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 or 2 wherein the water-dispersed linear sulfopolyester used has a Tg of greater than or equal to 50 ℃.
4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the concentration of the water-dispersed linear sulfopolyester is 0.1 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The cosmetic composition of claim 4 wherein the water-dispersed linear sulfopolyester is present in a concentration of 1 to 30 weight percent relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The cosmetic composition of claim 5 wherein the water-dispersed linear sulfopolyester is present in a concentration of from 5 to 25 weight percent relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the modified guar is a hydroxypropylated guar.
8. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the modified guar gum is present in a concentration ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein the modified guar gum is present in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 9, wherein the modified guar gum is present in a concentration ranging from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 or 2 wherein the ratio of water dispersed linear sulfopolyester/modified guar is from 0.01 to 100.
12. The cosmetic composition of claim 11 wherein the water dispersed linear sulfopolyester/modified guar gum ratio is from 1 to 75.
13. The cosmetic composition of claim 12 wherein the water dispersed linear sulfopolyester/modified guar gum ratio is from 2 to 50.
14. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising a further fixing polymer selected from: anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic immobilizing polymers or mixtures thereof.
15. The composition of claim 14, wherein the cationic fixing polymer is selected from the group consisting of homopolymers or copolymers of esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid or amides containing amine functional groups, cationic polysaccharides, quaternized copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl imidazole, and chitosan.
16. The composition of claim 14, wherein the anionic fixing polymer is selected from the group consisting of homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid or their salts, crotonic acid copolymers, C4-C8Copolymers of monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides, polyacrylamides containing carboxylic ester groups, homo-or copolymers containing sulfo groups, anionsPolyurethanes and anionic grafted silicone polymers.
17. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the amphiphilic fixing polymer is chosen from copolymers containing acidic vinyl units and containing basic vinyl units, acylated and crosslinked polyaminoamides, polymers containing zwitterionic units, polymers derived from chitosan, modified (C)1-C5) Alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers, amphoteric polyurethanes, and amphoteric grafted silicone polymers.
18. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the non-ionic fixing polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyalkyloxazolines, vinyl acetate homo-and copolymers, acrylate homo-and copolymers, acrylonitrile copolymers, styrene homo-and copolymers, polyamides, vinyl lactam homopolymers other than vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers, vinyl lactam copolymers, non-ionic polyurethanes and non-ionic grafted silicone polymers.
19. The cosmetic composition according to claim 14, wherein the concentration of the additional fixing polymer is 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
20. The cosmetic composition according to claim 19, wherein the concentration of the additional fixing polymer is 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
21. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, containing a further thickening polymer in addition to the modified guar gum.
22. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the concentration of the additional thickening polymer is 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
23. The cosmetic composition according to claim 22, wherein the concentration of the additional thickening polymer is 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
24. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 or 2, comprising at least one compound selected from the group consisting of silicones, silicone-containing fatty substances, and silicone-free fatty substances.
25. The cosmetic composition according to claim 24, wherein the concentration of the compound selected from the group consisting of silicone, silicone-containing fatty substance, and silicone-free fatty substance is 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
26. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, wherein the concentration of the compound selected from the group consisting of silicone, silicone-containing fatty substance, and silicone-free fatty substance is 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
27. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 or 2, comprising at least one additive selected from the group consisting of: nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, further nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric polymers, ceramide and pseudoceramide, provitamins and vitamins, water-and fat-soluble opacifiers, solid fillers and microparticles, pearlescers and opacifiers, glitters, active microparticles, dyes, chelating agents, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, alkalizing agents, neutralizing agents, inorganic and organic thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, penetrants, perfumes and preservatives.
28. A method of styling or maintaining the hairstyle wherein a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 27 is used.
29. Use of a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one water-dispersed linear sulfopolyester and at least one modified guar gum, for fixing and maintaining the hairstyle, wherein the water-dispersed linear sulfopolyester is obtained by reacting at least one dicarboxylic acid or one of its esters, at least one diol and at least one compound substituted by an SO group on the aromatic ring3Obtained by polycondensation of difunctional sulfoaryl dicarboxyl compounds substituted by M groups, in which M represents a hydrogen atom or a metal ion, and the modified guar is obtained by modification with at least one C1-8Alkylated guar with at least one C1-8Guar gums hydroxyalkylated with hydroxyalkyl groups or with at least one C1-8Alkyl acylated guar gum.
30. Use of a cosmetic composition according to claim 29 wherein the water-dispersed linear sulfopolyester is derived from isophthalic acid, the sodium salt of sulfoisophthalic acid, diethylene glycol and 1, 4-cyclohexanedimethanol.
31. Use of a cosmetic composition according to claim 29 or 30 wherein the modified guar is hydroxypropylated guar.
32. Use of a cosmetic composition according to claim 29, wherein the resulting hair style is a water-resistant hair style.
CN200510119962XA 2004-07-29 2005-07-11 Cosmetic composition comprising linear sulfopolyester and modified guar gum, and using method and application of composition Expired - Fee Related CN1771900B (en)

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FR0408396A FR2873576B1 (en) 2004-07-29 2004-07-29 COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LINEAR SULFONIC POLYESTER AND A MODIFIED GUAR GUM, METHODS USING THE SAME AND USES THEREOF

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MXPA05007482A (en) 2006-02-01
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JP2006036764A (en) 2006-02-09
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KR20060050046A (en) 2006-05-19
ES2324543T3 (en) 2009-08-10

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