[WIP] fix: wait for hydration via react effect

[katywings]

This PR tries to reduce the flakiness of the tests as much as possible. But it isn't perfect: sometimes the page hydration just fails for unknown reasons, especially on Windows. The new isReady check tries to recover from hydration fails, by reloading the page, which seems to work pretty solidly. Longterm though we should think about rewriting a lot of the tests, especially those related to HMR & fixture.updateFile.

I ran the updated tests countless times with force-pushes and so far got zero fails with the latest version.

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