Table of Contents
This project started as a partnership with Dana and Dan to turn wrenches and get some track time in. We liked the idea of endurance racing and splitting the cost would make it cheaper and more fun. In the words of Ricky Bobby, "I wanna go fast" but honestly we don't need to be first.
24hrs of Lemons is a endurance race of "junk" cars. It was an event that offers a low cost of entry lots of track time. Judging by the YouTube videos it looks like a lot of fun "racing" with other gearheads. The hunt was on for a cheap car that would git the criteria of $500.
Our purchased car is a 1986 944 turbo that was hit with the ugly stick. It needed to be put back together after the owner, "had a heart attack while doing a headgasket replacement." Cool head gasket isn't too bad. If we sold things we didn't need like the black leather sport interiors we could recoup some the cost of blowing the $500 budget. Unfortunately there were some skeltons in the closet. These skeltons were so plentiful and dangerous that we ultimately decided to not spend all of our time building a shit box. We'd keep costs low where possible but we wanted a safe and reliable car.
With the original engine in full sketch mode in need of rebuilding the decision of dumping thousands into rebuilding an engine developed in the 70s or engine swapping was simple. Engine swap it. Knee jerk reaction was ls it and move but as Jordan Perterson said, "Life is Suffering" so why not make it more complicated. Some smart folks on the interwebs started kicking around the idea of a turbo 5 cylinder in the 944. Hearing the sweet sweet sound of 80's urquattros was a big motivator. It was decided, join the early few to put up money for the kit. Big thanks to Alan, without him it would just be forum chatter.
The Boost Brothers Kit has custom parts needed for the swap. Later on they also offered a stand alone ECU and custom harness which was opted for.
- Bellhousing
- Intake Manifold
- Motor Mounts
- Custom Upper and Lower Oil Pans
- Valve Cover
- Rear Coolant Fitting
- etc.
07k installation tips:
- Don�t install the starter or RH engine mount until the engine is in the car
- Mount the lower sump with the engine out of the car.
- Lowering the crossmember makes it possible, dropping it completely makes it a piece of cake. If the clutch disk isn't right on center, the tip of the driveshaft isn�t going to line up with the pilot bearing. Also, we recommend removing the crossmember completely so you have a clear path to align the engine with the torque tube. And, use an engine leveler on your engine hoist to get it at the correct angle (fore/aft). It also needs to be clocked pretty close to 15 degrees (tilted toward psgr side) so that after you get the engine all the way back, you can get the four torque tube bolts into the back of the bellhousing. Another thing we found helps if the driveshaft spline doesn�t want to go into the clutch disk, spin the crank using a strap wrench around the crank pulley while you push the engine back. I know you got further than this, but these tips might help others as well. Other major things to install on the engine before dropping it in: upper oil pan and pickup, oil sump, flywheel, pilot bearing adapter, clutch disk, bellhousing, TOB. Optional: psgr side engine mount.
For the m8 (class 10.9) hex head bolts that fasten the engine mount brackets: 28-30 ft-lb.
For the one m10 (class 10.9) hex head bolt that fastens the driver side engine mount bracket: 55-60 ft-lb.
For the flywheel bolts are m10 x 1.0 (class 12.9), VW factory flywheel bolt torque spec, around 64 ft-lb or APR recommendation.
Note that the stainless steel bolts should not be torqued to the same values as class 10.9 bolts (that would break their heads off). I would basically just snug them up and then maybe an addition 1/8 turn. Optionally, use Loctite blue to prevent them from backing out. I provided SS bolts for cosmetic reasons, in places where the loads are much lower.
The base engine is out of a 2014 automatic passat, it was supposed to have only 60k on it so we will see how it holds up. The down side is the drivers side engine mount interferes with the BBG bracket slightly. This will have to be clearenced around on of the sensors, auto transmission perhaps.
From Mike ag BBG: 2008 and up for the upgraded timing chain. I personally like the 2008-2010 because they still have a standard mechanically controlled oil pump. 2011+ aren't a problem though.
High RPMs will throw belts if the 07k stock front crank pulley is used. To get around this the TTRS/RS3 crank pulley is used which has a viscous center to reduce high RPM vibration, part number 07K105243H.
Per Alan's post on the RL forum:
All Cars
- Largest fitting on rear coolant flange -> upper radiator port (there are some formed hoses I found that work awesome for this, snaking around the firewall and steering shaft without rubbing on anything) Here it is: Dayco 72365 will get you most of the way from the back of the engine up to the radiator. Depending on what radiator you're running, you will probably need an adapter and a second hose to finish the run. I used a billet aluminum 1-1/4" coupler made by ICT Billet, with Gates heat shrink hose clamps, since there's no reason to pull this splice apart for service.
- Lower radiator port -> thermostat neck (another formed hose, I will update here when I find the part number) Here it is: Dayco 72193.
- Steam vent (smallest port on rear flange) -> small vertical port on back of expansion tank (I used a piece of 6mm or 7mm ID silicone hose for this).
- Cap the 3/4" port on the OE thermostat housing (I bought a set of coolant bypass caps from an auto parts store, and put silicone on a small one to push inside the port, and then hose clamped a 3/4" cap on the outside.)
- And, pick one of the following options:
Option 1. No heat and no water-cooled turbo 3/4” outlet on rear flange -> thermostat housing bypass fitting*
Option 2. With heat and no water-cooled turbo 3/4” outlet on rear flange -> 3/4" inlet in heater valve (GM 12380318)** 3/4" and 5/8" fittings on heater valve -> heater core ports 5/8" outlet of heater valve -> thermostat housing bypass fitting*
Option 3. No heat and with water-cooled turbo 3/4" outlet on rear flange -> 5/8" x 5/8" x 3/8" tee (Dorman 47147) Water outlet on oil filter block -> turbo water inlet Turbo water outlet -> 3/8" port on tee 5/8" port on tee -> thermostat housing bypass fitting*
Option 4. With heat and water-cooled turbo 3/4" outlet on rear flange -> 3/4" inlet in heater valve (GM part # 12380318)** 3/4" and 5/8" fittings on heater valve -> heater core ports
5/8" outlet of heater valve -> 5/8" x 5/8" x 3/8" tee (Dorman 47147) Water outlet on oil filter block -> turbo water inlet Turbo water outlet -> 3/8" port on tee 5/8" port on tee -> thermostat housing bypass fitting*
- bypass fitting can be made by cutting off the end of the steel bypass tube that mounts into the thermostat housing, and welding on a steel 5/8" barb fitting (such as Dorman 56152). See pic below. There is also a 3/4" version of this fitting, which may work better for options 1 and 3, along with the 3/4" version of the Dorman tee. ** GM part is vacuum actuated. Substitute a 4-port cable-actuated heater valve if necessary. I mounted mine above the bellhousing on the passenger side, right near the heater core ports on the firewall. You can easily find 5/8" and 3/4" formed hoses at your local parts store that will make the connections (I found a couple of short 90 degree ones).
The clutch and flywheel was sourced from BBG, they did all the hard work. Thanks!
The throwout brearing is from a Solstice GXP hydraulic TOB (24234308). To use it a hydralic adaptor, Kappadapt Stainless Clutch Fitting adapter to -4AN with 2 o-rings (CHK101-2) is needed. An adaptor is needed from the Kappadapt, Earl’s AT9919BFEERL, Adapter M12 x 1.0 to -4AN. The line from the slave cylinder to TOB is Jegs 635158, 24” stainless braided Teflon lined hydraulic hose with -4AN ends (one straight, one 90).
Clutch and Flywheel:
- SPEC 02M aluminum flywheel (SV81A)
- SPEC 02M pressure plate
- SPEC 944 Turbo disk
- Optional ARP crank bolts (higher strength than OEM)
Steps:
- Make sure you have the crank position sensor impulse rotor installed
- Do not use the stock flywheel shims with new flywheel & clutch kit
The 07k engine has and upper pan and a lower pan. In the BBG kit the upper pan is reworked and the lower is completely fabricated to allow for clearance to the 944 cross member. When fitting the upper pan, it was found out that the original hardware won't quite clear the welds. We opted for new cap bolts and washers for fasten the 8 outer bolts that were not internal to the engine. The bolts used were (8) M8x1.25 25.
It was recommended by Mike at BBG that you remove the rear lower and upper chain covers. This would provide a simple "drop in" for the upper pan vs trying to maintain a good seal while attaching to two perpendicular surfaces (block and rear lower chain cover).
For the oil pans and chain covers, volkswagen D 176 501 A1 was used. D 154 103 A1 will be used for the timing cover.
Steps:
- Disassemble everyting you need to
- Prep sealant surfaces (both sides of upper pan, block and lower pan by removing debris and cleaning.
- Install upper Pan 3.1) Confirm chain guard is on upper pan, if not stop what you are doing and find it. 3.2) Apply 1.8-2mm bead of sealant to surface 3.3) Carefully set upper pan on surface, immediately put in a few bolts by hand so it doesn't slide around 3.4) Run down all bolts by hand 3.5) Torque bolts to 20 Nm
- Install pickup tube 4.1) Check pickup tube for debris, blow out 4.2) Check torque on fasteners 4.3) Install pickup tube with keeper and bolt, apply blue loctite to threads 4.4) Install pickup tube cap bolts to secure to upper pan, apply blue loctite to threads
- Install Lower Pan 5.1) BBG kit sent an allen long socket with ball end. This tool is sweet and very much needed for installation of the lower pan. Use it. 5.2) Apply 1.8-2mm bead of sealant to surface. 5.3) Install a few fasterners by hand so it doesn't slide around on you 5.4) Install rest of fasterners by hand 5.5) Torque fasteners to 10 Nm
- Install lower chain cover 6.1) Is your CPS (crank position sensor) installed on the rear chain cover? I would install it to the cover first. 6.2) Clean and prep surfaces 6.3) Apply 1.8-2mm bead of sealant to surface 6.4) Put in a few fasterners by hand so it doesn't slide around on you 6.5) Torque to 25 Nm
- Install upper chain cover 7.1) Clean and prep surfaces 7.2) Apply 1.8-2mm bead of sealant to surface 7.3) Put in a few fasterners by hand so it doesn't slide around on you 7.4) Torque to 10 Nm
- Don't forget the 4 (1 external, 3 internal) bolts that go from top down into the lower timing cover
Our base engine didn't come with a fuel rail or injectors. We could have spent money at the junk yard but we knew stock injectors would not flow what we needed and billet things are nice so the IE billet fuel rail was sourced. Also Siemens Deka 60lb/hr injectors are used for the build. Following the BBG parts list we purchased a fuel regulator and gauge to help troubleshoot any fuel issues should they pop up.
Most likely we will opt for the Bosche 044 pump but that is still a future purchase.
BBG set fuel pressure to 43.5 psi for the turbo tune with large 60 lb/hr injectors.
When installing the fuel injectors, Alan said: For our cast aluminum manifold, make sure you install the injectors into the intake manifold first, individually. Also best to use some sort of lube on the injector o-rings such as a dielectric grease. The injector ports are the same size as the ones in the factory manifold, but require some effort to insert the injectors. If you leave the injectors in the rail and try to install it as an assembly you risk them not seating into the manifold properly.
The 2012 07k engine used for the sway has an oil pressure regulating valve. The driver's engine mount had to be clearanced to allow the bracket to work with the valve. The valve when not hooked up defaults to high pressure mode which is what will be ran at all times.
Being true to the race car, it was decided AC and heat were not necessary. So we decided to not plumb those systems and remove everything we could.
The BBG custom intake manifold was used. This manifold has (2) 1/4" NPT ports and (4) 1/8" NPT ports.
Our turbo system isn't completely finalized. Initially the Lamborghini header was going to be used with a v-band and internally gated turbo. The Lamborghini header almost bolts up to the 07k. Only one stud doesn't quite align. When it all came together it was decided a good clamp up for the exhaust is needed.
The current plan is
- SPA manifold
- Same turbo as Alan, Garrett G25-660 reverse rotation turbo, part # 871390-5011S G25-660. Turbo is oil and water cooled, includes -4AN oil feed fitting and -6AN coolant/water fittings.
- External waste gate will is Tial MVS 38mm vband
- T3 to v-band adaptor is needed between the tu(rbo and header
- Longer exhaust head studs are needed, m8 x 1.25 55mm long )
- Optional - Use 2 bolt 38mm to vband adaptor for wastegate and v-band wastegate to clock wastegate to exit rear
Chassis stuff here. Also the sketchy stuff.
The brakes were not operation when we purchased the car. The seller stated they didn't work because the engine wasn't running. Yeah. Red flag.
The Clutch was also not operational when we purchased the car. It went straight to the floor.
The BBG kit supplied a new flywheel, clutch disk and pressure plate. Simple purchase. We opted for the 6 bolt CBU* option vs buying the 8 bolt Audi TTRS crank because at least initially we aren't planning on doing a fully built engine.
Suspension stuff here.
Power Steering was removed. The 07k uses a dual belt system. The crank pulley drives the PS pump which has uses a pulley with two belt provisions, the other drives the water pump and alternator.
Cjar from the forum said this: My car also has manual steering, I pulled apart an ebay AC compressor and just mounted the front half with the stock VW pulley to hold the place and make the belt routing complete.
- Buy Car
- Buy enough things you must go forward with project
- [] Engine in
- [] First start
- [] First drive
- [] Shakedown
- [] Cage Install
- [] Full race car prep 2022 season
If you have a suggestion that would make this better, please fork the repo and create a pull request. You can also simply open an issue with the tag "enhancement".
- Fork the Project
- Create your Feature Branch (
git checkout -b feature/AmazingFeature) - Commit your Changes (
git commit -m 'Add some AmazingFeature') - Push to the Branch (
git push origin feature/AmazingFeature) - Open a Pull Request
Distributed under the MIT License. See LICENSE.txt for more information.
Sorry we are off the social media grid.
Dan's twitter - @dancornutt
Dana's contact - ?
Without the significant contributes from the people below, this project wouldn't be possible.