Christian Core (born 5 October 1974) is an Italian professional rock climber who specialises in bouldering and competition bouldering. He is known for being the first-ever person in the world to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder, Gioia [fr], in 2008. As a competition climber, Core won the Bouldering World Cup twice in 1999 and 2002, and also won the Bouldering World Championship in 2003.

Christian Core
Christian Core on Gioia (8C+), Varazze
Personal information
NationalityItalian
Born (1974-10-05) 5 October 1974 (age 50)
Savona, Italy
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height177 cm (5 ft 10 in)
Weight61 kg (134 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known forfirst-ever person to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder
First ascents
Medal record
World Cup
Winner 1999 Bouldering
Winner 2002 Bouldering
World Championships
Bronze medal – third place 2001 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2003 Bouldering
European Championships
Gold medal – first place 2002 Bouldering
Updated on 31 October 2017

Climbing career

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Competition climbing

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In 1999 Core stopped competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and started participating in the Bouldering World Cup, organized by UIAA in that year for the first time in history.[1] He immediately won the Cup, and again in 2002.[2] In 2003, he earned the title of World Champion in bouldering.[3]

Bouldering

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He has ascended several very hard boulders in Italy near Bobbio Pellice, Varazze, and Triora. In 2008, he climbed Gioia [fr], the first-ever boulder graded 8C+ (V16) in history, and was for 8 years, the most difficult boulder in the world. In 2011, Adam Ondra repeated the ascent and confirmed the grade,[4] however, in 2015, Core announced that a hold broke on Gioia, which he could only partially repair, and which slightly lowered the grade.[5]

Personal life

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In 2009, he married the climber Stella Marchisio.

Rankings

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Climbing World Cup[6]

1995 1996 1997 1998
Lead 10 11 9 17
1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012
Bouldering 1 8 7 1 8 16 4 4 13 16 54 26 54 32

Climbing World Championships[7]

1997 1999 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009 2011
Lead 7 - - - - - - -
Bouldering - - 3 1 18 10 10 33

Climbing European Championships[7]

1998 2000 2002 2004 2007 2008 2010
Lead 10 - - - - - -
Bouldering - - 1 - 16 10 7

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

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Bouldering[7]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
1999 2 1 3
2000 1 1 2
2001 1 1
2002 1 1 2
2003 1 1
2004 1 1
2005 1 1
2006 1 1
2010 1 1
Total 3 6 4 13

Rock climbing

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Redpointed routes

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Core redpointed 8c (5.14b) and onsighted 8a (5.13b) routes.

Boulder problems

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Core redpointed 8C+ (V16) and flashed 8A (V11) boulder problems.

8C+/V16:

8C/V15:

8B+/V14:

Film

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  • i Core, my climbing family – 2012 – Regia di Angelo Poli – 45'[20][21]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (1 September 1999). "A Cristian Core e Stèphanie Bodet la Worldcup di Bouldering 1999". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  2. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (23 October 2002). "A Core e Perlova la World Cup Bouldering". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  3. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (11 July 2003). "Core e Levet campioni del mondo Boulder". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  4. ^ "Adam Ondra, the pure Gioia interview". PlanetMountain.com. 7 December 2011. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  5. ^ "Core gives us the Gioia 8C+ history". 8a.nu. 19 December 2020. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  6. ^ IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
  7. ^ a b c IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "Core's profile and rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
  8. ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (25 February 2008). "La Gioia di Christian Core". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  9. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (6 December 2011). "Adam Ondra ripete Gioia 8C+ a Varazze". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  10. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (22 February 2014). "Nalle Hukkataival ripete Gioia a Varazze". Retrieved 23 September 2014.
  11. ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (6 September 2006). "Una Kimera per Christian Core". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  12. ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (31 October 2009). "Christian Core apre Toky". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  13. ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (14 December 2006). "New Base Line per Christian Core". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  14. ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (2 March 2006). "Christian Core, 8b+ in Spagna". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  15. ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (1 June 2004). "Christian Core risolve Ajna". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  16. ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (10 May 2003). "'Toguro' 8b+ per Core a Varazze". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  17. ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (14 February 2003). "Christian Core sale 'Dreamtime'". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  18. ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (7 November 2002). "Taklimakam si allunga". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  19. ^ infoboulder.com, ed. (19 September 2002). "Christian Core, 8b+ su Shadowfax". Retrieved 8 January 2012.
  20. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (16 October 2012). "i Core my climbing family su Deejay TV". Retrieved 29 July 2013.
  21. ^ I Core: My Climbing Family at IMDb

Bibliografia

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  • Andrea Gennari Daneri, Christian Core (2000). Pareti e Montagne edizioni (ed.). Train!.
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