TRAVEL: Thrills and spills of hitting the slopes and learning to ski; The Swiss Alps are an intimidating sight, but absolute beginner EMMA BRADY jumped at the chance to learn to ski in Champery.
Byline: EMMA BRADYIt had to happen on the last day, outside an Alpine bar of all places, much to my shame and embarrassment.
Lying face down in the snow minus a ski, not to mention my dignity, after falling about 40 metres downhill, I can't help but smile.
After running a mental check to see if anything hurt, I realised I was fine as Lloyd, my Red Carpet guide, helped me to my feet.
That's one thing nobody tells you about skiing, particularly piste virgins, falling over is fun. And when he told me a certain Mr Liam Gallagher had taken one or two tumbles in a similar style a few weeks before, I felt I was in good company.
Until now the quiet resort of Champery - 1,050 metres up in the Swiss Alps - had been the preserve of a discerning few, but after the Oasis front man was snapped enjoying a Christmas break here, it was only a matter of time before word got out.
And he's not the only celebrity to discover the resorts charms.
Former England goalkeeper David Seaman and the Pet Shop Boys' singer Neil Tennant have also been spotted enjoying some apres-ski in the picturesque village recently.
In just three days of learning to ski in the Portes de Soleil region, I had developed numerous and varied ways of stopping when snowplough or a parallel turn didn't do the trick.
Sitting down, plunging headlong into a deep wall of snow, or just grabbing whatever or whoever was nearest and taking it or them down with me also worked.
By my final day I was able to "parallel park" by swinging my body round instead, hoping to fool bystanders into thinking I'd done this before. However, being overtaken by streams of fearless five-year-olds demonstrated the fact that I still have a long way to go.
Skiing over to France was meant to be my crowning glory as apparently no beginners, certainly none with less than three days' tutelage, had done that before.
Lloyd and I had set off from Les Crosets, a 20 minute ride from the resort's telepherique or cable car, to join the rest of the party in Avoriaz, a pretty hamlet just over the border, best known for its haute cuisine.
But we were not there yet. There was still a considerable distance to cover before we could enjoy a hearty meal and a few drinks at Les Trappeurs.
Somehow, in just three days, I had graduated from gingerly snowploughing down a short green run in Les Crosets to tackling three different blue runs, as well as mastering the art of picking myself after a fall or 22.
On the first day, after getting to grips with the kit, nervous excitement meant I was desperate to make progress, and while having one-to-one tuition helps boost confidence, a patient instructor also helps.
From 140CHF (about pounds 70) for an hour to 360CHF (about pounds 180) for a six-hour session, Red Carpet's instructors are worth paying for, whether you are a green-run novice or an accomplished skier looking for more challenging routes.
And with 650km of prepared piste to be explored, and acres of off-piste to be tackled by advanced skiers, investing in one is money well spent.
The sheer terror of navigating my maiden blue run was compounded by a whiteout as cloudy conditions and falling snow made it almost impossible to follow Lloyd's tracks.
However my adrenaline-fuelled panic began to subside during this descent as the Swiss Alps gradually revealed themselves as the mists and clouds began to clear.
The Portes de Soleil region, which straddles Switzerland and France, is the world's largest international ski area and its inspiring landscape is unspoilt.
And that's when it happened: as I surveyed the scenery, my heart momentarily stopped as I struggled to turn right before getting close to the edge of a run, with a sheer unprotected drop.
Thankfully landing in "powder" is not painful.
By day I was even falling better, having finally learned that getting back up with skis pointing down the fall line is never a good idea. As I nursed an indulgent hot chocolate and two Neurofen, Lloyd claimed confidence tends to build after that first tumble.
But as far as I was concerned the route from Les Crosets to Avoriaz was unchartered territory, and with dozens of accomplished skiers and snowboarders whizzing by, it was hard not to be intimidated by them.
After extricating myself from the ski lift at Pointe de Mossette, conditions began to worsen and the thought of skiing "blind" brought back the fear of another fall.
"Try and follow me and listen for my instructions," Lloyd assured me as he went ahead, fortunately clad in a fluorescent orange jacket.
Trying to put everything into practice, it was clear this is no place for a beginner. But I arrived at the bottom all too soon, grinning like a Cheshire cat.
Presented with a fine Swiss red wine and the house speciality a savoyarde - a large omelette made with ham, cheese, mushrooms and spinach - I was suddenly ravenous.
It's easy to see how addictive skiing can become. The apres-ski has its own attractions, but the excitement from hurtling downhill is intoxicating.
After a quick turn around at Chalet Rose des Alpes, one of five places run by Alpine Tracks in Champery, it was time to relax in a hot bath to soothe tired and aching limbs.
Les Bains de Lavey is the place to do just that.
It may look like a council-run swimming pool, but go through the doors and you are greeted by a spectacular view of the Alps, which enclose an outdoor thermal pool, rapids, bubbling water beds, massage pools, jacuzzis and a plunge pool.
As I let the rapids propel me around, I gazed up at the imposing mountains, yearning to have just one more day on the piste.
Emma Brady flew to Geneva from Birmingham with Easy Jet, whose fares begin at pounds 17.99, including taxes and charges.
She stayed at the three-star Chalet Rose des Alpes in Champery, where a week's break booked through Alpine Tracks costs between pounds 295 and pounds 495 per person. For more information call Alpine Tracks on 01248 717440 or visit alpinetracks.com.
A Portes de Soleil ski pass covers 237 lifts linked by 650km of marked and prepared piste and 13 villages along the French-Swiss border. This area bosts 141 Green/Blue runs, with 106 Reds and 26 challenging Black runs - including the infamous Swiss Wall - and 60 mountain restaurants. A six-day full area pass is pounds 130 for adults, pounds 95 for children. Ski and boot hire cost from pounds 60 for children and pounds 75 for adults. Six days' tuition with the Swiss Ski School is pounds 90 for adults, pounds 85 for children.
CAPTION(S):
Ski runs in Les Crosets in Switzerland; Skiers can enjoy exhilarating runs at Champery in Switzerland. Inset, Emma Brady on her debut skiing holiday
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| Title Annotation: | Features |
|---|---|
| Publication: | The Birmingham Post (England) |
| Date: | Feb 23, 2008 |
| Words: | 1169 |
| Previous Article: | TRAVEL: Plenty of apres ski in Champery. |
| Next Article: | TRAVEL: Treat your mum to a lovely break this Mother's Day; SKI LATES. |
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