Straight to the Point
We liked the HexClad 12-Inch Hybrid Pan, and it seems durable—one of our editors has used hers since 2016 without any damage. That said, it’s expensive and you could buy separate nonstick and stainless steel skillets for the price of the single 12-inch HexClad pan.
Here at Serious Eats, we’ve long held the opinion that you shouldn’t spend a ton of money on a nonstick skillet; they just don’t last long enough to justify a big price tag. Instead, if you’re looking to invest in cookware, we often point you toward a sturdy stainless steel, carbon steel, or cast iron skillet, all of which are versatile, durable, and can get a nice sear on meats (and cauliflower steaks, if you’re into that). But the truth is, so many folks love a nonstick skillet for its ease of use, including many of us editors (it’s true!).
This is why we’ve been super curious about HexClad, a brand that peddles “hybrid” cookware that “brings together the performance of stainless steel, the durability of cast iron, and the convenience of nonstick”—or so they say. It also comes with a hefty price tag, with the 12-inch skillet costing $200.
Could this expensive, hybrid skillet that supposedly combines the best of nonstick and stainless steel prove that you can truly have it all? I set out to find out by using the 12-inch frying pan for around a month, pitting it against fried eggs, crepes, seared steak, pan sauce, sauteed mushrooms, and much more.
The Tests
- Seasoning: Prior to using the skillet, I seasoned it per HexClad’s instructions. This involved heating the pan over medium, spreading one teaspoon of oil around the interior, then leaving the pan on medium heat for two to four minutes. While I'm not sure seasoning is really necessary for this type of pan, it's easy enough to do.
- Water Boiling Test: I boiled one cup of water in the skillet without a lid, timing how long this took.
- Fried Egg Test: I cooked two over-easy fried eggs in the skillet, one with oil and one without oil. I used a metal fish spatula to flip the eggs and remove them from the skillet.
- Crepe Test: I made a batch of crepes in the skillet, examining how the pan was able to lift and spread the batter, as well as how easy it was to flip the crepes.
- Steak au Poivre Test Test: I made steak au poivre to test the pan’s searing ability and how it performed over high heat. I also examined the pan’s durability by using a whisk to make the pan sauce.
- Sauteed Mushroom Test: I made our recipe for sauteed mushrooms, examining how the skillet fared when tossing and stirring the fungi.
- Cleaning Tests: I hand-washed the skillet and ran it through the dishwasher.
What We Learned
What Is HexClad Anyway?
When you look at a HexClad pan, the first thing you might notice is, well, the hexagons covering the surface. (Senior culinary director Daniel Gritzer says they look like they were made in the same factory as the TIE fighters that whiz through space in Star Wars—and I concur. These pans would probably be what Darth Vader would use if he cooked). The hexagons are made of etched, raised stainless steel. Paired with an aluminum core and tri-ply layers of stainless steel cladding, you get a pan that’ll heat up fast (it boiled water on my electric stove in less than two minutes).
Between the raised steel hexagons are what HexClad calls “nonstick valleys.” When we first tested the pan in late 2023, these valleys were coated in what the company called “high-grade non-toxic Japanese coating infused with diamond dust for extra toughness.” Buried in the FAQs was a note about how the nonstick coating contained PTFE. However, HexClad has since changed the nonstick coating on its pans to ceramic. The website states: "Protected between the steel hexagon peaks are nonstick valleys containing our high-grade proprietary ceramic nonstick called TerraBond™ which is PTFE-free and free from forever chemicals." So if you want to avoid PTFE's, newer HexClad pans are a safe bet.
Hexclad Pans Pros and Cons | |
---|---|
Pros | Cons |
-Sears Well -Lightweight -Ergonomic handle -PTFE-free |
-Questionable durability -Not entirely nonstick -Expensive |
In essence, with HexClad, you get a pan with the heating abilities of stainless steel, as well as a somewhat nonstick surface, for a fairly high price. The question is, is it worth it?
The Nonstick Ability Was (Mostly) Good
Daniel, who has owned a HexClad pan for years at this point, says that while the pan is durable, it’s not quite as nonstick as is claimed. “The HexClad offers the best durability I've ever seen in a nonstick pan, I'll allow it that,” he says. “But where it falls short is in its claim that it's just as nonstick as any other nonstick pan. In my experience, it is not.”
This is because this pan isn’t the same kind of nonstick pan as a, well, explicitly nonstick pan; the nonstick “valleys” are broken up by the stainless steel webbing, so that’s where the “hybrid” adjective comes from. The stainless steel hexagons mean that you need to heat your pan properly and use oil with it, or else you’re at risk of, say, your over-easy eggs sticking, as happened to me during my tests. However, once I added a quick squirt of canola to the pan, I was able to easily flip and remove the fried eggs. I didn't have any issues with delicate crepes sticking, though, and that was without any butter or other grease lubricating the surface (though you can use a stainless steel skillet to make crepes, so that’s not super surprising).
Its Durability Has Held Up—So Far
As part of my testing, I made pan sauce for steak au poivre, which requires a good amount of whisking, as well as setting the pan over fairly high heat to reduce the sauce. Even after whisking the sauce, I didn’t find any scratches or scrapes along the interior surface, and the high heat of searing steak and simmering sauce didn’t have any effect either; there was no discoloration or darkening.
The downside is that ceramic, which is used to create the nonstick valleys, does limit its longevity in some capacity because it scratches and wears away over time. HexClad also suggests users "start on lower temperatures; medium with HexClad equals medium-high with others." That said, the pans are heat-safe up to 500°F. All in all, with proper care the coating should last a good amount of time, just be careful with what kinds of utensils you use with it, since metal can scratch ceramic.
We Liked the Pan’s Ergonomics and Shape
At first, I was a little skeptical of the rather straight, tubular handle on the skillet. But while sauteeing mushrooms and swirling crepe batter, I found the handle quite comfortable to hold and maneuver. I also liked the gently curved sides which let steam vent readily, essential when searing steaks or sauteeing mushrooms. While the pan was a tad heavy, weighing two pounds, 15.6 ounces without the lid, our favorite stainless steel skillet from Made In weighs a similar three pounds.
The Verdict
I really liked cooking with the HexClad 12-inch skillet in terms of form factor, results, and ease of use; the curved corners helped steaks get a nice sear (without steaming) and contained mushrooms whilst sauteeing. And while our editors have seen the durability of the pans IRL, we still question their overall longevity and, in some ways, the pan's purpose. It’s like a Frankenstein mashup of ceramic nonstick and stainless steel, but each of these components weakens the other (as in, the stainless steel keeps it from being truly nonstick, while the ceramic nonstick coating means it’s not as durable as a purely stainless steel skillet). I think you might be better off investing in a sturdy stainless steel skillet and a cheaper nonstick skillet or ceramic skillet. Combined, they’d probably be the same price as a single HexClad pan. That said, if you’ve had your heart set on a HexClad, it likely won't disappoint—but you better be prepared to (literally) pay for it.
Pros
I liked the handle, which stayed cool and felt balanced with the skillet itself. The sides of the skillet were nicely sloped, too, letting me saute and stir fry without flinging ingredients everywhere. The shallow, curved sides also allowed steam to escape, so I got a good sear on steaks. The pan also heated up quite quickly, bringing water to a boil in under two minutes on our electric range. Bonus: It’s induction-friendly.
Cons
I question the pan's durability and purpose. Stainless steel brings quick and even heating, but prevents it from being truly nonstick, while the ceramic coating gives the pan some nonstick abilities (though not entirely, because of the stainless steel webbing), but isn’t as durable as stainless steel. That said, HexClad does have a lifetime warranty, which is heartening. However, it comes with strings attached. The website says, “Our warranty does not cover damage that occurs as a result of failure to follow proper care and use guidelines as outlined in the product inserts and on our website.”
Key Specs
- Materials: Stainless steel, aluminum, ceramic nonstick coating
- Weight: 2 lbs, 15.6 ounces
- Cleaning: Dishwasher-safe
- Warranty: Lifetime warranty (though I recommend reading through the fine print)
FAQs
Does HexClad have Teflon in it?
Teflon is a proprietary brand of PTFE made by Chemours that is not used by HexClad. Instead, the brand now uses ceramic to coat the nonstick valleys of its cookware.
Are HexClad pans nontoxic?
Since the pans use ceramic to give them their nonstick abilities, they are technically non-toxic.
Why is food sticking to my HexClad pan?
Because HexClad uses stainless steel in addition to a ceramic nonstick coating, you can get some sticking unless you oil the pan or heat it up before adding food.
Do HexClad pans last long?
HexClad pans have a lifetime warranty, provided you use the pan properly. You can read more about their warranty coverage here. We will continue to use the pans we have from HexClad to gauge their longevity over time. Thus far, they've held up well, only developing a patina after frequent use, but no damage.
Why We’re the Experts
- Grace Kelly is an editor at Serious Eats, where she specializes in testing and reviewing kitchen gear.
- Prior to this, she tested equipment and ingredients for America’s Test Kitchen. She’s also worked as a bartender and cook in various restaurants.
- She has written dozens of reviews for Serious Eats, including petty knives, tinned fish, fish spatulas, and tortilla presses, among others.
- To test the HexClad 12-inch frying pan, Grace made over-easy eggs, crepes, sauteed mushrooms, and steak au poivre with pan sauce. She also asked two of our editors who have used the pans for years about their experience cooking with them. We've been using the pans ever since we first tested them to see how they hold up.