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The Nightcrawler

Name: The Nightcrawler
Rating: 3.9

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in Brownstone Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Armatron T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Arms Reduction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Birthday Cake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Black Dagger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Cat Scratch Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chocolate and Cheese T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Corruption of the Jesuit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	High Anxiety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Hourglass Diversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hueco Thanks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Immaculate Conception T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	J + J Swerve T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Kentucky's Finest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Mayday Malefactor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Me, Myself and I T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nightcrawler, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Pegg Leg T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Poopship Destroyer T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pro Choice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pro Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Requiem for a Tadpole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Sand Castle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Senior Dimensions T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Stone the Crows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sweet Thin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ten Minute Shift T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Three Choclateers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Time's Up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Voodoo Lady T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA:	George and Joanne Urioste
Page Views:	70,797 total · 327/month
Shared By:	beny on Feb 16, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

The is an excellent route that should not be missed- some of the best 5.10 climbing in red rocks. P3,4 offer some incredible stemming, laybacking, and jamming on perfect varnished rock. P2 has great climbing as well- varied.

P1: Start below the right side of the Hourglass on a left-trending low-angled crack. End on a ledge at the base of a right-facing corner with a two bolt anchor. 5.6, 150 ft. The length of this pitch will vary depending on how high you are willing to climb unroped.

P2: Step left into the right-facing crack that widens quickly to a chimney. After the chimney ends, make face moves up to the right-leaning, right-facing crack above. This pitch ends at another pretty good ledge with a two bolt anchor. This pitch protects well without large gear. 5.9, 120 ft.

P3: Stunning. Leave the belay with a right facing dihedral fist crack on your left and a perfect finger crack on the right wall. Ascend the corner using both these features until the crack on the right tapers out. Continue up the thin right-facing corner to a ledge with two bolts. This is incredible climbing in a mostly tips corner with occasional face holds. Small wires and tcu's are necessary to supplement the bolts. 5.10+, 110 ft. 7 bolts.

P4. The excellence continues. Keep climbing up the right-facing corner and wonder why there aren't more routes like this. End on a ledge with a two-bolt anchor. 5.10+, 80 ft. 2 bolts.

5. Resist the temptation to rap. Climb up a splitter crack of varying sizes on black rock. Overcome the roof, then trend right and up a polished groove to a two-bolt anchor. 80 ft, 5.8.

Notes: P3,4 combine easily with a 70, and it would appear the same with a 60m as well. If you do this with a standard rack, be ready to skip bolts and make things a bit sporty. Above P5 is loose, sandy, difficult to protect and not so great. Enjoy.

Descent: The best option is to rap from the top of P5. The P5 anchors are 1/4" equalized with cord and 2 nuts.

Every anchor station now has rap rings. 70m works for all except the last rap; either be ready to downclimb 15 feet of 5.6 or bring a 10m pullcord.

Of course, the other option is the Gunsight Notch. This involves some unpleasant 5th class climbing past the P5 anchors. We did this and won't do it again.

Location

Approach as for Brownstone Wall. After coming up the slabs, continue up and right to the base of the wall, right of the Hourglass feature. This route takes on the right-facing dihedral that forms the right side of the Hourglass.