When we think of grass, we envision a well-manicured lawn, right? Well grass, if left to grow to seed would look very different; and it is these differences that have caught the eye of many people.
Ornamental grass is, first, "grass;" indestructible, grows just about anywhere, and comes up year after. Second is the "ornamental" side; not only does it have its showy summer side, but in many cases it has a showy winter side as well.
Grasses come in many shapes, sizes, and forms.
Tufted types have spiky or fine-textured foliage with upright leaves growing up from a central clump. (Example: Blue fescue)
Mounded styles have a weeping look. The new top growth covers the lower leaves. (Example: Black-flowering pennisetum)
Uprights speak for themselves, very columnar. (Example: Cattail)
Upright divergent types have foliage that grows up and out in an erect or stiffly ascending manner. (Example: Blue oat grass)
Upright arching grasses have a fountain look. (Example: Silver feather maid grass)
Arching types have foliage that arches up and out, in somewhat equal proportions. (Example: Palm grass)
Their uses are not just limited to the hard-to-landscape spot next to the garage door. Container gardens, water gardens, rock gardens, and meadows have also benefited from their unique looks and character.
When choosing an ornamental grass for your landscape, stay with the varieties that are sold locally. Not only can you purchase bigger ones, but also you will be guaranteed that they are hardy for this area. If you decide to order some from a catalog, make sure the plants you are buying will grow in Zone 5, stay away from Zone 6 plants unless they are going to be planted in a very sheltered spot next to the house.
Know for sure where you wish to plant them. Some grasses spread like crazy, some stay in nice neat clumps. Be careful to read how tall they get and how they grow out from the little root ball you planted.
Planting time is best done in the fall or early spring so as to give the plant some time to establish itself before the hot summer weather.
Soil needs are rarely a consideration with the exception of hardpan clay. Some sandy topsoil mixed in with a garden fork will loosen up the clay enough to get the roots to grow out.
When planting, be sure to put the top of the root ball even with the top of the soil you are planting in; too deep, and the plant spends too much energy just trying to get out of the ground. Mounded too high and you run the risk of roots becoming exposed.
Once planted, it would be a good idea to put some mulch around the newcomers. This will not only keep the water down around the roots but will keep the weeds down and smothered as well.
The most important maintenance chore for growing healthy attractive grasses is to give them a haircut once a year. When you choose to do this, is up to you, but you must do it. If you wish to enjoy the winter foliage, the clipping can be done in early March. If you want them buzzed before winter, leave around six inches standing; this will insulate them from the harsh winter chill.
If your grass has become too big to suit you or the area it is in, you may divide it. This can be a simple process; all that's needed is a sharp spade and "shoed" foot, and early spring. Simply push the spade through the middle of the clump, pop it out and, either, plant it someplace else or give it away to someone else.
Ornamental grasses are very different from any other plant in the landscape and deserve a look. Just be careful where you put them, give the space they need, if you don't, they'll take it anyway.
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