Small Cattle for Small Farms
By Margo Hayes
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About this ebook
Small cattle breeds are manageable to control and care for and perfect for lifestyle blocks and small farms. They can be bred commercially for beef but their docile temperaments and small size also make them especially suitable for hobby farms. As more people have turned to the country for a 'tree change', interest in these breeds has grown tremendously.
In this new edition of her popular book Small Cattle for Small Farms, award-winning cattle breeder Margo Hayes provides practical and easy-to-understand information for people interested in keeping small cattle for a range of reasons. The book assumes no prior experience with cattle and covers all the basics to help you set up an enjoyable and viable small farm, including: types of cattle and production systems available, how to select your stock, explanations of equipment required and basic cattle husbandry. It contains simple explanatory diagrams and photographs to make new concepts clear.
With new and expanded sections on small cattle breeds, genetics and breeding systems, this second edition competently addresses questions asked by those entering small farming for the first time while providing a solid reference for those already in the industry. Detailed guidelines for raising healthy cattle through good nutrition, land management and herd monitoring are provided, in addition to tips for showing and marketing your cattle and up-to-date government requirements for land and stockowners.
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Small Cattle for Small Farms - Margo Hayes
Introduction
Having been involved with small breeds of cattle, including Ausline and Australian Lowline, for the past 20 years, this book started as an information sheet to answer the many and various questions that I receive either via email or directly from my clients. The majority had no prior knowledge or experience with cattle and often what seemed obvious or second nature to me was, on reflection, a genuinely sensible question from their perspective.
This book is not here to extol the virtues of any particular breed, as all have their strong points. It’s just a matter of finding which one suits your circumstances, climate, acreage size and objectives. For many it’s not about making a profit, it’s about fulfilling a lifetime wish of owning land and running some cows to manage the grass and provide a rural environment for children and grandchildren.
Small or miniature breeds fit these criteria perfectly for a number of reasons. Their size, ranging from around 100–130 cm, means they are not as daunting as some of the larger breeds that can come in at over 180 cm. When converting this to kilograms some of the smaller breeds will range from 300 kg to 700 kg at maturity compared to the larger breeds ranging from 700 kg to 1500 kg! Their stocking rate means their smaller size allows you to run more per hectare and produce more beef per hectare, and their docility makes them ideal first-time cattle.
My area of expertise is, as stated, in breeding stud Ausline and Australian Lowline cattle alongside a commercial herd, but the principles are the same for all small breeds. Each breed will have its own Association and requirements and you will need to contact the relevant breed society to find these out. I also suggest that you obtain a copy of the society’s rules and regulations, as these may impact on your long-term goals.
1
Time for a tree change
My reason for making the tree change came about by accident. My husband decided, when our youngest was just a baby, to retire and write books so he bought a farm in the hinterlands of northern New South Wales, obtained a contract with a major publishing house and started writing. There was I, an events organiser of international jazz artists, used to being extremely busy, with a tiny baby stuck in the hills on a farm with not much to do. I explored all options for our 50 acres and I eventually chose small cattle. I had been brought up on a property of some 7000 acres, my father being a sixth-generation of Australian graziers, and I knew cattle. They seemed the obvious choice for me.
Then when our youngest was three she developed Type 1 diabetes, necessitating my care and attention 24/7, meaning that I could not return to the workforce with commitments to set hours for quite some time. So I decided to develop my cattle into something more than just a hobby. It has been the most wonderful time – I have been able to take and involve my daughter every step of the way. It’s a lifestyle that keeps us outdoors and develops responsibilities in children in caring for animals, and has allowed us to travel together with a common interest. It has involved the whole family and now includes our grandchildren. In addition, it has allowed me to build a business through which I now export to seven countries, have my own award-winning branded beef product, and run introductory cattle care courses as well as producing stud and commercial animals. The opportunities are endless and the ability to create new markets by value adding to my core product is so rewarding. I have even seen the development and creation of a whole new breed which started out by isolation of a particular gene. It is challenging, exciting and what’s more I absolutely love it.
So you have made the decision to buy some land, for whatever reason, and now you need some stock to eat the grass. Below are some questions you might like to consider.
Q. We have decided to do the tree change thing and buy some land. We would like to purchase between 50 and 100 acres. We like the idea of running a small breed of cattle as neither of us have had any previous experience with livestock. Do you have any suggestions for us prior to the purchase of our land, or factors that we need to consider in order to run our cattle?
A. The most important factor when looking at purchasing land is availability of quality water. You need to have access to a clean and constant water supply whether it be from creeks, bores or dams. If dam water is the only supply, then check to make sure the dams have never been dry. You can always buy in feed if need be, improve the pastures, build shade shelters and put in new fences but it can be almost impossible – and exorbitantly costly – to buy in water for livestock.
Q. I have recently bought a small farm for the sake of starting a wholesale nursery (I have been in the nursery industry for 14 years) but I will not use all my acreage for some time, if ever. I would like to find a product that could keep down the grass (as seed flying around is detrimental to my potted crops) and perhaps provide an additional income. What can you suggest? What costs are associated? What sorts of profit (if any) could I expect?
A. In order to gauge your profit margin you will need to determine whether you will run stud or commercial cattle. Other factors that need to be considered include whether supplement feed will be required and, if so, whether you can self-produce or will have to buy it in, what is the average rainfall, what is the condition of the soil and pastures and what is the livestock carrying capacity of the land. All these issues will have an impact on the bottom line. Bear in mind that it is highly unlikely the majority of small farms will ever make a substantial profit due to economies of scale, but it is possible to run enough cattle so that they cover their costs and, if the season and markets are good, provide you with a small profit.
Q. We have recently purchased a small farm (10 acres) and we are looking at getting some Dexters from a lady in our street who breeds them. I need knowledge, knowledge, knowledge and I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction with how to go about learning about cattle, this breed and running them etc.
A. My research has shown that the majority of people who purchase smaller cattle have no prior knowledge. Obtaining information from breed societies and members and going to shows and field days are excellent ways to learn. Specific courses aimed at introductory cattle husbandry are also an excellent way to learn the basics. The various state government primary industry websites are valuable reference tools, along with the Meat & Livestock Australia (MLA) and FutureBeef websites.
Q. I have a house on 5 acres of cleared land (which was once cattle pasture), which I will be moving to full-time around October this year. I intend to try the ‘self-sufficiency’ thing (I’ve already done the basics, vegie garden, chooks etc.), and am looking into some form of livestock. My neighbour runs three beef cattle (also pigs, goats, sheep, ducks, chooks etc.) and I am interested in doing the same thing. I thought that if I had the ‘smaller’ cattle I could perhaps run a few more. Could you please give me some information on how many I could keep on 5 acres (with dam), approx. cost (not too worried about buying the next state champion!) and availability.
A. The recommended stocking rate for small cattle is one animal per acre, but this depends on the average rainfall, condition of the soil, pastures and tree density. You also need to consider how much available grazing land there is, taking into consideration the house yard, sheds etc. Cattle are herd animals so they like to have a companion. The MLA website has a stocking rate calculator which you might find useful but remember it is based on larger breeds.
Q. What type of grass is best for grazing (real beginner question here!)? I’m looking at optimising the block to cater for the cattle, and hope that my 5 acres will accommodate four to five cows and a bull.
A. Evidence would seem to suggest that cattle do best on a variety of grasses and pastures. You will need to find out from your local Department of Primary Industries (DPI) what grasses grow best in your region. It would be highly unlikely that 5 acres would be able to accommodate that number of stock if the cows are to be bred, which means that in nine months there will be nine to 11 head.
Q. I have just purchased a small (110 acre) property in NSW. I am a practical fellow, but with no agricultural experience. Ultimately I would want to go into beef farming rather than breeding.
A. Common practice is to buy in stock when pasture is plentiful and destock in times of dry or reduced pasture growth. This can be quite a profitable exercise if the seasons are good and the cattle markets are buoyant, but a word of caution – everyone else in the beef industry will be doing the same thing. My advice would be to start with a small number and then, once you are able to estimate the land’s stocking rate during the various seasons, you can build your numbers.
Q. I suppose my plan is to have three or four cows and a bull and breed them in order to feed my family. I don’t plan on getting so involved that I’m dealing with saleyards. I just want something to keep the grass down, and every so often get the local ‘roaming butcher’ in to slaughter one. Hopefully this is feasible.
A. This is a perfectly feasible plan. Small cattle are perfect for the freezer as they produce manageable cuts and a whole carcass is able to fit into a freezer. Remember that once killed a beast will weigh about 55% of its original live weight. From this weight you should then obtain 60–70% of useable meat once bone, fat etc. have been discarded.
2
Benefits of smaller cattle
There are many advantages of smaller cattle. Small cattle are easier to handle, their size makes them not so daunting for first-time livestock owners, and the equipment required is less expensive and complicated. Their size also means that they just don’t have the weight and strength to do as much damage to gates, yards, equipment and fences, so less maintenance is required.
Smaller cattle are also gentler on the land. You have far less damage to pastures due to the hoof size and weight of the smaller animals. In countries such as New Zealand, where pugging of the soil is a problem in areas of excessive rainfall, small breeds have been found to be excellent in preventing this while at the same time allowing the pastures to be grazed effectively.
As the imperative to increase farm profitability continues, production costs must be minimised and the returns to the producer must be maximised. Smaller cattle offer a number of significant and obvious advantages such as higher stocking rates, ability to maximise available feed, shorter production time, lower production costs and higher-valued products. You can produce more beef per hectare. It takes about 2 hectares to raise two large breed animals whereas you can raise four per hectare with smaller breeds. On highly fertile land with a high rainfall, this stocking rate can be increased. There are more small farms in Australia than there are big farms, and small cattle are well suited to these. More importantly for the farmer, being able to produce finished cattle sooner means more cattle per hectare.
Small cattle are also well suited to the beef market: the Australian appetite is for a thick juicy portion of steak not for something that is 30 mm thick and hangs off the side of the plate. When it comes to beef production, small cattle have finer-grained beef; this is the most tender beef. Most of the smaller breeds have excellent meat qualities. The numbers that compete successfully in our national hoof and hook competitions support this, as do their significant wins in branded beef competitions.
The International Miniature Cattle Breeders Society and Registry claims that the small breeds are 25% more efficient in terms of feed conversion, requiring about a third less feed than their larger counterparts. One of the largest Angus studs in the US, the Duff Cattle Ranch, claims they are 30% more feed-efficient. As the imperative to produce grass-fed beef continues to grow, whether it be organic, biodynamic or just certified pasture-fed, the early maturity pattern of the smaller breeds gives them a commercial advantage. This means that they can stop growing at a younger age and express fattening ability at an earlier age so they can produce a finished product sooner.
Those that are marketed as a beef breed have shown excellent retail yield percentages with some butchers obtaining up to 75%, which is very impressive. Retail yield is the percentage of useable meat from a carcass. This is due to the fact that the smaller breeds don’t have as much bone, especially leg bone, which is all wastage. This allows the butcher to make more profit per carcass.
Smaller birth weights are another advantage. This reduces the number of calving problems and it is why we now see a number of commercial producers of larger British breeds using smaller breed bulls over their heifers, hence the term ‘heifer bulls’. Don’t worry, I can assure you, they don’t seem to have a problem reaching! I have had Charolais and Senepol cows in excess of 700 kg that I join annually to my Ausline bulls. Lower birth weight calves prevent the heifers from suffering damage during their first calving, allow them to recover and cycle again faster and conceive again sooner.
In addition, the ability of the smaller breeds to moderate the frame size of larger traditional breeds without compromising beef qualities optimises efficiency and sustainability. In more recent years producers have made a concerted effort to reduce frame size, add muscle and produce an animal that can fatten off grass. Exceptionally large cows have been shown to wean a lower percentage of their bodyweight with an unsustainable feed consumption requirement, as well as reducing fertility and longevity.
An increasing number of dairies, especially in the southern states, consider that small breed bulls provide a commercially attractive alternative to traditional choices for dairy heifers, for a number of reasons. First, due to ease of calving, heifers joined to smaller breeds cycle again quickly and hit full milk production rapidly after calving. This expedites their return to the dairy and significantly enhances the probability of taking AI (artificial insemination) on the first cycle. Second, they produce excellent quality beefy calves, which do extremely well in the traditional dairy calf markets. Third, management and safety issues are greatly reduced. Smaller breeds have temperaments that are preferable to those of traditional dairy bulls, which are renowned for being extremely dangerous. This allows dairy farmers to walk freely among their cows and bulls and manage them much more easily.
Finally, the most important benefit is they make great family pets. Children love them: they can pat the calves and milk the mum and generally interact with them with the greatest of ease. The cattle end up becoming part of the family, with names and personalities of their own. Most owners find the whole idea of using them for beef is abhorrent but remember that you can’t keep everything you breed, especially bulls.
Q. Is 5 acres big enough for a Lowline bull and heifer and hopefully a calf in future?
A. Without knowing if there is irrigation available and whether the pastures are improved, let alone seeing a soil analysis, average rainfall, density of vegetation and temperature graph, it’s very hard to say. But providing there is adequate rainfall with good pastures then in most circumstances it would be possible. You may have to supplement feed during the drier months or when grass growth is reduced or severely frosted.
My property allows me to run 130 head on 160 acres (including my commercial herd) but I have irrigation and improved pastures and I do have to feed hay and molasses supplement in dry times. We have a very dry winter with normally no rain from May to October so I need to plan in advance for those dry months; for example, I grow my own hay.
3
Production systems: stud or commercial
The first question I ask any potential buyer is ‘What is your purpose in buying cattle?’ This will determine whether you want stud or commercial stock. Are you seeking to make a profit or will it just be a hobby? Do you want to show or do you just want to produce grass-eaters to fatten and sell through the markets, or perhaps even home kill or sell at farmers’ markets? Do you want to breed your own animals? By far the easiest types of stock to manage are steers but then you don’t have the enjoyment of breeding and producing baby calves. If you go down the track of commercial animals, where do you intend to sell the progeny? Management issues also need to be considered; for example, if you are unable to check your stock regularly then fattening steers maybe a more suitable option. You need to be able to answer these questions before you decide upon purchase of your initial stock because it can be a considerable capital investment and you will want to spend your dollars wisely. Once you begin, whichever way you go, it’s going to be a very steep and rapid learning curve.
I suggest that you start off in a small way. Don’t go in and buy a whole herd! Instead, start off with a few and learn gradually. Then when you feel more confident you can expand.
Q. What is the difference between stud stock and commercial stock?
A. Stud stock are purebred or fullblood stock and are registered with the relevant breed society. They normally command a higher price. It will therefore take a lot longer to obtain a return on your investment, as the majority of females will be kept until your breeding numbers are built up.
Some breed associations allow grading up to purebred status. This means that each successive generation has a higher percentage of that particular breed until you get to purebred status, which is generally achieved in four or five generations. You will need to check with the relevant breed society and its rules.
Stud stock-owners should guarantee their animals for sale and provide you with detailed health and joining records as well as registration papers. Many breed societies also request that all registered animals are DNA typed for parent verification. Registered stud stock are the only stock in Australia that are able to be exhibited at shows, with the exception of led steer classes. Animals that exhibit traits and characteristics that are considered desirable by judges may prove more expensive to purchase. There are a lot more administration costs associated with stud animals due to registration, transfer and membership fees.
Commercial stock are either crossbred animals or unregistered purebreds. Crossbred cattle are a mix of breeds with varying percentages (i.e. they are not purebred or registered) and as such are usually cheaper to purchase. Commercial stock cannot be exhibited at shows and, if they are of mixed breeds, can often grow to be larger animals than purebred stock. This will depend on what breed they have been crossed with – obviously a Charolais/Ausline cross will be a bigger animal than a Dexter/Ausline cross. If you just want small quiet grass-eaters then commercial stock are often a sensible and cheaper option. Some breeders also sell unregistered purebred animals as commercial cattle. They are normally unregistered because the breeder does not feel they are of significant quality to be registered.
Q. We want to have a small breed but we are still unsure whether to have stud or commercial cattle. We do want to breed. Do you have suggestions?
A. Depending on the acreage available, my advice in this situation is to start off with some commercial heifers (1st cross), a registered bull and one or two stud animals. The bull can be joined to both the stud and commercial females. The commercials will give you a more immediate cash flow as their progeny can be sold, while you will probably retain your stud animals until your breeding numbers build up. This will give you some time to see which avenue you wish to pursue without outlaying a large sum of capital in stud stock.
Q. I think Lowlines are the cattle for my property. I am wanting to sell them for commercial reasons only, I am not interested in showing. I intend to breed with only well-bred stock. My question is, do you think Lowlines are sellable to the general public? Will they sell as well as the bigger breeds? My husband doesn’t think they are the type to just take to a cattle sale. What are your opinions