WO2005107695A1 - Cosmetic compositons with tapioca starch - Google Patents

Cosmetic compositons with tapioca starch Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2005107695A1
WO2005107695A1 PCT/EP2005/004267 EP2005004267W WO2005107695A1 WO 2005107695 A1 WO2005107695 A1 WO 2005107695A1 EP 2005004267 W EP2005004267 W EP 2005004267W WO 2005107695 A1 WO2005107695 A1 WO 2005107695A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
composition according
beads
optionally
tapioca starch
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2005/004267
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Michael Charles Cheney
Allison Wright
Adelino Dos Santos Jr.
Stephen Roy Barrow
Richard Loren Mcmanus
Philip Edward Miner
Original Assignee
Unilever Plc
Unilever Nv
Hindustan Lever Limited
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Unilever Plc, Unilever Nv, Hindustan Lever Limited filed Critical Unilever Plc
Priority to AU2005239805A priority Critical patent/AU2005239805B2/en
Priority to JP2007511920A priority patent/JP2007536294A/en
Publication of WO2005107695A1 publication Critical patent/WO2005107695A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the invention concerns cosmetic compositions with aesthetics providing a silky rub-in transforming into a powdery, drier afterfeel.
  • Silkiness is known to be imparted by a variety of silicone materials. Yet the silicones do not transform compositions into a powdery afterfeel. Typical disclosures of silicone materials for cosmetics is found in US Patent 5,972,359 (Sine et al.) and US Patent 6,524,598 B2 (Sunkel et al.)
  • Powders have been formulated into cosmetics. For instance, talc in a fluid media tends to pill or ball-up.
  • US Patent 6,495,123 B1 (Faryniarz et al.) describes how porous particles such as Ganzpearl® GMP 0820 removes the tackiness normally associated with organic sunscreen agents in low pH systems.
  • Starches have been employed to enhance viscosity of liquid formulations.
  • US Patent 5,824,323 (Fishman) reports skin lotion compositions with non-greasy skinfeel.
  • These formulas can contain a variety of starches including tapioca to provide body and thickness to the lotions.
  • a cosmetic composition which includes: (i) from 0.1 to 10% by weight of tapioca starch; (ii) from 0.001 to 5% by weight of polyacrylic beads of number average particle size ranging from 1 to 50 microns; (iii) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of an emulsifier; (iv) optionally, an effective amount to provide an initial silky feel upon skin contact of a polysiloxane material; (v) optionally, from 0.1 to 20% by weight of a C12-C22 fatty acid; (vi) optionally, from 0.1 to 40% by weight of polyhydric alcohol; (vii) optionally, an effective amount to preserve of a preservative; and (viii) a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • the composition initially delivers a silky feel transitioning after rub-in to a powdery, dry satin or velvety afterfeel.
  • the afterfeel aesthetics are achieved with a combination of tapioca starch and polyacrylate in bead form having number average particle size ranging from 1 to 50 microns.
  • Tapioca starch is a first component of the present invention.
  • Tapioca also known as Cassava or Manioc
  • the plant is a perennial that grows eight to twelve feet high and the roots can be as much as three feet long and five to ten inches in diameter.
  • Cells of the tuber carry the tapioca starch.
  • This starch is recovered by wet grinding the washed roots and continuous re-washing, resulting in a pure carbohydrate.
  • a powder source with a median particle size ranging from about 1 to 100 microns, preferably from 5 to 15 microns, optimally from 10 to 30 microns.
  • the starch is commercially available under the tradename TAPIOCA PURE (28-1810) from the National Starch & Chemical Company, Division of ICI.
  • An alternative source is TIStar Tapioca Starch sold by the Multi-Kern Corporation.
  • Another component which may be utilized in compositions of the present invention is that of polyacrylic beads. Especially useful are polymethyl methacrylate, polyethyl methacrylate, polyethyl acrylate and polymethyl acrylate polymers. Most preferred are polymethyl methacrylate beads.
  • the beads can range in number average particle size from 1 to 50 microns, preferably from 3 to 30 microns, optimally from 5 to 10 microns. These beads may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked, but crosslinking is preferred.
  • the beads may have an Oil Absorbance ranging from 60 to 300 ml/100g, preferably from 70 to 180 ml/100g, as defined by ASTM-D281-31.
  • Beads of polymethyl methacrylate are sold under the trademark Ganzpearl, available from Presperse Inc., Piscataway, New Jersey 08854. Most preferred is Ganzpearl® GMP-0820 with number average particle size of about 8 micron and an Oil Absorbance of about 170 ml/1 OOg.
  • Amounts of the polyacrylate beads may range from 0.001 to 5%, preferably from 0.01 to 1 %, optimally from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of the composition.
  • Emulsifiers may also be present in cosmetic compositions of the present invention. Total concentration of the emulsifier when present may range from 0.01 to about 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5%, optimally from 1 to 3% by weight of the composition.
  • the emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric actives.
  • nonionic emulsifiers are those with a C-10-C20 fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C 2 -C10 alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, mono- and di- C8-C20 fatty acids; and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof.
  • Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides are also suitable nonionic emulsifiers.
  • Polyhydric alcohols may be employed in certain compositions of the present invention.
  • Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerin (also known as glycerol), polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanet ⁇ iol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of polyhydric alcohol when present may range from 0.1 to 40%, preferably from 0.5 to 20%, optimally from 1 to 10% by weight of the composition.
  • Preservatives can desirably be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions of this invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms.
  • Suitable traditional preservatives for compositions of this invention are alkyl esters of para- hydroxybenzoic add.
  • Other preservatives which have more recently come into use indude hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds.
  • preservatives are phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, DMDM Hydantoin, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4- isothiazolin-3-one, 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one and benzyl alcohol.
  • the preservatives should be selected having regard for the use of the composition and possible incompatibilities between the preservatives and other ingredients in the emulsion.
  • Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.00001% to 2% by weight of the composition .
  • Preferred anionic surfactants indude soap, C8-C20 alkyl ether sulfates and sulfonates, C 8 - C20 alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, Cs-Ca alkylbenzene sulfonates, C8-C20 alkyl and dialkyl sulfosucdnates, C8-C20 acyl isethionate, C8-C20 alkyl ether phosphates, C8-C20 sarcosinates, C8-C20 acyl lactylates and combinations thereof.
  • Polysiloxane materials may be present in compositions of this invention.
  • the organopolysiloxane may be volatile, nonvolatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones.
  • nonvolatile refers to those silicones that are liquid or solid under ambient conditions and have a flash point (under one atmosphere pressure) of at least about 100°C.
  • volatile refers to all other silicone oils.
  • Suitable organopolysiloxanes indude polyalkylsiloxanes, cydic polyalkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes.
  • Polyalkylsiloxanes can be represented by the general chemical formula R3SiO[R2SiO] ⁇ SiR3 wherein R is an alkyl group having from one to 30 carbon atoms (preferably R is methyl or ethyl) and x is an integer from 0 to 10,000, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight which can range to over 10,000,000.
  • R is an alkyl group having from one to 30 carbon atoms (preferably R is methyl or ethyl) and x is an integer from 0 to 10,000, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight which can range to over 10,000,000.
  • Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes include the polydimethylsiloxanes, which are also known as dimethicones. These indude the Vicasil® series sold by General Electric Company and 5 the Dow Coming® 200 series sold by Dow Coming Corporation.
  • Dimethicones indude those represented by the chemical formula (CH 3 ) 3 SiO[(CH3)2SiO] > ⁇ [CH3RSiO]ySi(CH3)3 wherein R is a straight or a branched chain alkyl having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms and x and y are each integers of 1 or greater selected to achieve the desired molecular weight which can range to over 10,000,000. Examples of these alkylsubstituted dimethicones o indude cetyl dimethicone and lauryl dimethicone.
  • Cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes suitable for use in the composition indude those represented by the chemical formula [SiRrO] n wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl) and n is an integer from 3 to 8, more preferably from 4 to 6. Where R is methyl, these materials are typically referred to as cydomethicones.
  • trimethylsiloxysilicate which is a polymeric material corresponding to the general chemical formula wherein x is an integer from 1 to 500 and y is an integer from 1 to 500.
  • a commercially available trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold as a mixture with dimethicone as Dow Coming® 593 fluid. 5 Dimethiconols are also suitable for use in the composition.
  • R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl) and x is an integer from 0 to 500, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight.
  • dimethiconols are typically sold as mixtures with dimethicone or cyclomethicone (e.g. Dow Coming® 1401, 1402, 1403 and 1501 fluids). Particulariy preferred is a blend with INCI name of Cydopentasiloxane and PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone commercially available from GE Silicones as SF1528.
  • Crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers may also be useful as polysiloxane materials. These may be of the emulsifying or non-emulsifying crosslinked elastomer variety.
  • non-emulsifying defines a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer from which polyoxyalkylene units are absent.
  • emulsifying is used to mean crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer having at least one polyoxyalkylene unit.
  • Non-emulsifying silicone elastomers may be powders such as vinyl dimethicone/methicone silesquioxane crosspolymers available from Shin-Etsu as KSP- 100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105, hybrid silicone powders that contain a fluoroalkyl group such as KSP-200, and hybrid silicone powders that contain a phenyl group such as KSP-300; and Dow Coming material DC 9506.
  • KSP- 100 vinyl dimethicone/methicone silesquioxane crosspolymers available from Shin-Etsu as KSP- 100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105, hybrid silicone powders that contain a fluoroalkyl group such as KSP-200, and hybrid silicone powders that contain a phenyl group such as KSP-300; and Dow Coming material DC 9506.
  • Preferred organopolysiloxane compositions are dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers. These are commercially available as Dow Coming (DC 9040 and DC 9045), General Electric (SFE 839), Shin Etsu (KSG-15, 16, 18 [dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer]), and Grant Industries (GransilTM line of materials), and lauryl dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers supplied by Shin Etsu as KSG-31 , KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG 3, and KSG 4.
  • Particularly useful emulsifying elastomers are polyoxyalkylene-modified elastomers formed from divinyl compounds, particulariy siloxane polymers with at least two free vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H linkages on a polysiloxane backbone.
  • the elastomers are dimethyl polysiloxanes crosslinked by Si-H sites on a moleculariy spherical MQ resin.
  • Amounts of the polysiloxane materials may range from 0.1 to 80%, preferably from 1 to 60%, optimally from 5 to 40% by weight of the composition.
  • Fatty adds having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may in certain formulations also be suitable for compositions of the present invention.
  • Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, oleic, linoleic, ridnoleic, arachidic, behenic and erudc adds.
  • Particulariy preferred is stearic add.
  • Amounts of the fatty add may range from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, optimally from 1 to 5% by weight of the composition.
  • compositions of this invention will indude a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • Amounts of the carrier may range from 1 to 99.9%, preferably from 50 to 95%, optimally from 80 to 90%.
  • the useful carriers are water, emollients, fatty alcohols, thickeners and combinations thereof.
  • the carrier may be aqueous, anhydrous or an emulsion.
  • the compositions are aqueous, espedally water and oil emulsions of the W/O or O/W variety. Water when present may be in amounts ranging from 1 to 95%, preferably from 20 to 70%, optimally from 35 to 60% by weight.
  • Emollient materials may serve as cosmetically acceptable carriers. These may be in the form of natural or synthetic esters and hydrocarbons. Amounts of the emollients may range anywhere from 0.1 to 95%, preferably between 1 and 50% by weight.
  • ester emollients are:
  • Alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms examples thereof include isoarachidyl neopentanoate, isononyl isonanonoate, oleyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate.
  • Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols.
  • Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti wax and tribehenin wax.
  • Sterols esters of which cholesterol fatty add esters are examples thereof.
  • Natural esters useful in this invention are sunflower seed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, jojoba and mixtures thereof.
  • Hydrocarbons which are suitable cosmetically acceptable carriers indude petrolatum, mineral oil, C 11 -C 1 3 isoparaffins, polyalphaolefins, and espedally isohexadecane, available commercially as Permethyi 101 A from Presperse Inc.
  • Fatty alcohols having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms are another useful category of cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • Illustrative are stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol. Amounts may range from 0.05 to 20%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of the composition.
  • Thickeners can be utilized as part of the cosmetically acceptable carrier of compositions according to the present invention.
  • Typical thickeners indude polyacrylamides (e.g.
  • acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers and copolymers e.g. Aristoflex AVC
  • crosslinked acrylates e.g. Carbopol 982®
  • hydrophobically-modified acrylates e.g. Carbopol 1382®
  • cellulosic derivatives sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methocellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose.
  • Natural gums suitable for the present invention indude guar, xanthan, 5 sclerotium, carrageenum, pectin and combinations of these gums.
  • Inorganics may also be utilized as thickeners, particularly days such as bentonites and hectorites, fumed silicas, and silicates such as magnesium aluminum silicate (Veegum®). Amounts of the thickener may range from 0.0001 to 10%, usually from 0.001 to 1 %, optimally from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of the composition. 0 Cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be in any form. These forms may indude lotions, creams, roll-on formulations, sticks, mousses, aerosol and non-aerosol sprays and pad-applied (e.g. wipe) formulations.
  • Sunscreen actives may also be induded in compositions of the present invention. Particularly preferred are such materials as ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, available as5 Parsol MCX®, Avobenzene, available as Parsol 1789® and benzophenone-3, also known as Oxybenzone.
  • Inorganic sunscreen actives may be employed such as microfine titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Amounts of the sunscreen agents when present may generally range from 0.1 to 30%, preferably from 2 to 20%, optimally from 4 to 10% by weight.
  • compositions of the present invention may also contain vitamins.
  • Illustrative water-soluble vitamins are Niadnamide, Vitamin B 2 , Vitamin B 6 , Vitamin C, Folic Add and Biotin.
  • useful water-insoluble vitamins are Vitamin A (retinol), Vitamin A Palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Vitamin E (tocopherol), Vitamin E Acetate and DL-panthe ⁇ ol.
  • Total amount of vitamins when present in compositions according to the present invention may5 range from 0.0001 to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 1%, optimally from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of the composition.
  • Skin lightening agents may be induded in the compositions of the invention.
  • Illustrative substances are placental extract, lactic add, niacinamide, arbutin, kojic add, resordnol and derivatives induding 4-substituted resordnols and combinations thereof. Amounts of these agents may range from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight of the composition.
  • Desquamation agents are further optional components. Illustrative are the alpha- hydroxycarboxylic adds and beta-hydroxycarboxylic adds. Among the former are salts of glycolic add, lactic add and malic add. Salicylic acid is representative of the beta- hydroxycarboxylic adds. Amounts of these materials when present may range from 0.01 to 15% by weight of the composition.
  • compositions of this invention may optionally be induded in compositions of this invention.
  • Illustrative are green tea, chamomile, licorice, lavender, grape seed and extract combinations thereof.
  • the extracts may either be water soluble or water-insoluble carried in a solvent which respectively is hydrophilic or hydrophobic. Water and ethanol are the preferred extract solvents.
  • Anti-microbial agents may also be induded in the compositions of this invention.
  • Illustrative are trichlosan, trichlocarban, Octopyrox® and zinc pyrithione. Amounts may range from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of the composition.
  • Colorants, fragrances, opadfiers and abrasives may also be induded in compositions of the present invention. Each of these substances may range from 0.05 to 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight.
  • Typical body lotions according to the present invention are illustrated in the E ⁇ xamples of Table I.
  • Table I The formulations of Table I are formulated in the following manner. Above specified quantities of disodium EDTA, titanium dioxide and xanthan gum/glycerin slurry are charged to a batching vessel. These components are mixed for 5 minutes and then the Carbomer is added as an aqueous solution (2% w/w). Heat is applied and the mixed contents are held at 80°C for 15 minutes. The remaining glycerin is added. The oil phase ingredients are then charged to a separate vessel. Light mixing is begun and heat applied to achieve 80°C. Slowly, the oil phase is added to the water phase under moderate mixing while maintaining temperature. All remaining water is charged to the vessel. Then the contents are homogenized at 80°C for 1 minutes. Contents are then cooled to 38-40°C accompanied by large sweep (75 rpm) mixing. Glydant Plus is added at 55°C. Cooling is continued accompanied by slow addition of DC 1501, fragrance and the various minor ingredients.
  • Illustrated herein is a skin cream according to the present invention.
  • Example 1 The base formula employed for the study is reported as Example 1 , except that the Tapioca Pure, Ganzpearl® GMP 0820, and the silicones were varied according to Table IV.
  • Each of the panelists was given the eight Samples A-H. A portion of each was spread on the panelist's hands with a request to rate each on a scale from 1 to 5. A rating of 1 corresponded to the least silky/powdery feel while a rating of 5 represented the best combination of most silky/powdery feel. Results are provided in Table V below.
  • the lotion which scored best was sample D formulated with a combination of Tapioca Pure and Ganzpearl® GMP 0820.
  • the addition of silicones as in sample E was almost as silky/powdery. It was clear from samples A and B that lacking either Tapioca Pure or Ganzpearl® GMP 0820 lotions resulted with an inferior feel performance.
  • the sled was pulled a distance of 2.5 cm during each 15 second increment.
  • the sequence was: pull for 15-seconds, stop, pull for 15- seconds, stop and so on until the edge of the glass plate was reached.
  • a new piece of nonwoven fabric was placed on the sled and the sequence was repeated on a new section of the glass plate.
  • the sled was run without and with a 100 gram weight. Sixteen runs were performed for each condition. The data is reported in Table VI.
  • the values in the table represent the mean peak load in grams as measured by the Instron-type apparatus force transducer with standard deviation specified.
  • the data shows that the addition of silicones increases the peak load ("stick") 15% and 13% for the un-weighted and weighted sled.
  • the effect of all the additives is a decrease of 15% and 7%.

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Abstract

A cosmetic composition is provided which includes tapioca starch, polyacrylic beads, an emulsifier and a cosmetically acceptable carrier. Optionally the composition may include a polysiloxane material to provide an initial silky feel upon skin contact, a fatty acid, a preservative and a polyhydric alcohol.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS ITH TAPIOCA STARCH
The invention concerns cosmetic compositions with aesthetics providing a silky rub-in transforming into a powdery, drier afterfeel.
Proper aesthetics are essential to any successful skin cream or lotion. Without the proper feel, consumers would not buy or use even those products with the most proven dermatological benefits.
Silkiness is known to be imparted by a variety of silicone materials. Yet the silicones do not transform compositions into a powdery afterfeel. Typical disclosures of silicone materials for cosmetics is found in US Patent 5,972,359 (Sine et al.) and US Patent 6,524,598 B2 (Sunkel et al.)
Powders have been formulated into cosmetics. For instance, talc in a fluid media tends to pill or ball-up. US Patent 6,495,123 B1 (Faryniarz et al.) describes how porous particles such as Ganzpearl® GMP 0820 removes the tackiness normally associated with organic sunscreen agents in low pH systems.
Starches have been employed to enhance viscosity of liquid formulations. For instance, US Patent 5,824,323 (Fishman) reports skin lotion compositions with non-greasy skinfeel. These formulas can contain a variety of starches including tapioca to provide body and thickness to the lotions.
Although solutions have been suggested to solve the problem of delivering silky feel to the skin, there still remains the challenge of formulating a cosmetic that upon continued rub-in converts to a powdery dry, almost satin or velvet afterfeel.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
A cosmetic composition is provided which includes: (i) from 0.1 to 10% by weight of tapioca starch; (ii) from 0.001 to 5% by weight of polyacrylic beads of number average particle size ranging from 1 to 50 microns; (iii) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of an emulsifier; (iv) optionally, an effective amount to provide an initial silky feel upon skin contact of a polysiloxane material; (v) optionally, from 0.1 to 20% by weight of a C12-C22 fatty acid; (vi) optionally, from 0.1 to 40% by weight of polyhydric alcohol; (vii) optionally, an effective amount to preserve of a preservative; and (viii) a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Now there is provided a cosmetic composition of exceptionally pleasant aesthetics. The composition initially delivers a silky feel transitioning after rub-in to a powdery, dry satin or velvety afterfeel. The afterfeel aesthetics are achieved with a combination of tapioca starch and polyacrylate in bead form having number average particle size ranging from 1 to 50 microns.
Tapioca starch is a first component of the present invention. Tapioca, also known as Cassava or Manioc, is a root or tuber extract. The plant is a perennial that grows eight to twelve feet high and the roots can be as much as three feet long and five to ten inches in diameter. Cells of the tuber carry the tapioca starch. This starch is recovered by wet grinding the washed roots and continuous re-washing, resulting in a pure carbohydrate. Particularly preferred is a powder source with a median particle size ranging from about 1 to 100 microns, preferably from 5 to 15 microns, optimally from 10 to 30 microns.
The starch is commercially available under the tradename TAPIOCA PURE (28-1810) from the National Starch & Chemical Company, Division of ICI. An alternative source is TIStar Tapioca Starch sold by the Multi-Kern Corporation. Another component which may be utilized in compositions of the present invention is that of polyacrylic beads. Especially useful are polymethyl methacrylate, polyethyl methacrylate, polyethyl acrylate and polymethyl acrylate polymers. Most preferred are polymethyl methacrylate beads. The beads can range in number average particle size from 1 to 50 microns, preferably from 3 to 30 microns, optimally from 5 to 10 microns. These beads may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked, but crosslinking is preferred. The beads may have an Oil Absorbance ranging from 60 to 300 ml/100g, preferably from 70 to 180 ml/100g, as defined by ASTM-D281-31. Beads of polymethyl methacrylate are sold under the trademark Ganzpearl, available from Presperse Inc., Piscataway, New Jersey 08854. Most preferred is Ganzpearl® GMP-0820 with number average particle size of about 8 micron and an Oil Absorbance of about 170 ml/1 OOg.
Amounts of the polyacrylate beads may range from 0.001 to 5%, preferably from 0.01 to 1 %, optimally from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of the composition.
Emulsifiers may also be present in cosmetic compositions of the present invention. Total concentration of the emulsifier when present may range from 0.01 to about 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5%, optimally from 1 to 3% by weight of the composition. The emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric actives. Particularly preferred nonionic emulsifiers are those with a C-10-C20 fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C2-C10 alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, mono- and di- C8-C20 fatty acids; and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof. Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides (e.g. methyl gluconamides) are also suitable nonionic emulsifiers.
Polyhydric alcohols may be employed in certain compositions of the present invention. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerin (also known as glycerol), polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetιiol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. The amount of polyhydric alcohol when present may range from 0.1 to 40%, preferably from 0.5 to 20%, optimally from 1 to 10% by weight of the composition.
Preservatives can desirably be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions of this invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Suitable traditional preservatives for compositions of this invention are alkyl esters of para- hydroxybenzoic add. Other preservatives which have more recently come into use indude hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Particularly preferred preservatives are phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, DMDM Hydantoin, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4- isothiazolin-3-one, 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one and benzyl alcohol. The preservatives should be selected having regard for the use of the composition and possible incompatibilities between the preservatives and other ingredients in the emulsion. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.00001% to 2% by weight of the composition .
Preferred anionic surfactants indude soap, C8-C20 alkyl ether sulfates and sulfonates, C8- C20 alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, Cs-Ca alkylbenzene sulfonates, C8-C20 alkyl and dialkyl sulfosucdnates, C8-C20 acyl isethionate, C8-C20 alkyl ether phosphates, C8-C20 sarcosinates, C8-C20 acyl lactylates and combinations thereof.
Polysiloxane materials may be present in compositions of this invention. The organopolysiloxane may be volatile, nonvolatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones. The term "nonvolatile" refers to those silicones that are liquid or solid under ambient conditions and have a flash point (under one atmosphere pressure) of at least about 100°C. The term "volatile" refers to all other silicone oils. Suitable organopolysiloxanes indude polyalkylsiloxanes, cydic polyalkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes.
Polyalkylsiloxanes can be represented by the general chemical formula R3SiO[R2SiO]χSiR3 wherein R is an alkyl group having from one to 30 carbon atoms (preferably R is methyl or ethyl) and x is an integer from 0 to 10,000, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight which can range to over 10,000,000. Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes include the polydimethylsiloxanes, which are also known as dimethicones. These indude the Vicasil® series sold by General Electric Company and 5 the Dow Coming® 200 series sold by Dow Coming Corporation. Dimethicones indude those represented by the chemical formula (CH3)3SiO[(CH3)2SiO]><[CH3RSiO]ySi(CH3)3 wherein R is a straight or a branched chain alkyl having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms and x and y are each integers of 1 or greater selected to achieve the desired molecular weight which can range to over 10,000,000. Examples of these alkylsubstituted dimethicones o indude cetyl dimethicone and lauryl dimethicone.
Cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes suitable for use in the composition indude those represented by the chemical formula [SiRrO]n wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl) and n is an integer from 3 to 8, more preferably from 4 to 6. Where R is methyl, these materials are typically referred to as cydomethicones. Commercially available5 cydomethicones indude Dow Coming® 244 fluid which primarily contains the cyclomethicone tetramer (i.e. n=4), Dow Coming® 344 fluid which primarily contains the cyclomethicone pentamer (i.e. n=5), Dow Coming® 245 which primarily contains a mixture of the cydomethicone tetramer and pentamer (i.e. n=4 and 5), and Dow Coming® 345 which primarily contains a mixture of the cydomethicone tetramer, o pentamer, and hexamer (ie. n=4, 5 and 6).
Also useful are materials such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, which is a polymeric material corresponding to the general chemical formula
Figure imgf000006_0001
wherein x is an integer from 1 to 500 and y is an integer from 1 to 500. A commercially available trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold as a mixture with dimethicone as Dow Coming® 593 fluid. 5 Dimethiconols are also suitable for use in the composition. These compounds can be represented by the chemical formulas R3SiO[R2SiO]χSiR2θH and HOR2SiO[R2SiO]χSiR2θH wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl) and x is an integer from 0 to 500, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercially available dimethiconols are typically sold as mixtures with dimethicone or cyclomethicone (e.g. Dow Coming® 1401, 1402, 1403 and 1501 fluids). Particulariy preferred is a blend with INCI name of Cydopentasiloxane and PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone commercially available from GE Silicones as SF1528.
Crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers may also be useful as polysiloxane materials. These may be of the emulsifying or non-emulsifying crosslinked elastomer variety. The term "non-emulsifying" defines a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer from which polyoxyalkylene units are absent. The term "emulsifying" is used to mean crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer having at least one polyoxyalkylene unit.
Non-emulsifying silicone elastomers may be powders such as vinyl dimethicone/methicone silesquioxane crosspolymers available from Shin-Etsu as KSP- 100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105, hybrid silicone powders that contain a fluoroalkyl group such as KSP-200, and hybrid silicone powders that contain a phenyl group such as KSP-300; and Dow Coming material DC 9506.
Preferred organopolysiloxane compositions are dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers. These are commercially available as Dow Coming (DC 9040 and DC 9045), General Electric (SFE 839), Shin Etsu (KSG-15, 16, 18 [dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer]), and Grant Industries (Gransil™ line of materials), and lauryl dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers supplied by Shin Etsu as KSG-31 , KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG 3, and KSG 4.
Particularly useful emulsifying elastomers are polyoxyalkylene-modified elastomers formed from divinyl compounds, particulariy siloxane polymers with at least two free vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H linkages on a polysiloxane backbone. Preferably, the elastomers are dimethyl polysiloxanes crosslinked by Si-H sites on a moleculariy spherical MQ resin.
Combinations of emulsifying and non-emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomers may also be useful for the purposes of this invention. Amounts of the polysiloxane materials may range from 0.1 to 80%, preferably from 1 to 60%, optimally from 5 to 40% by weight of the composition.
Fatty adds having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may in certain formulations also be suitable for compositions of the present invention. Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, oleic, linoleic, ridnoleic, arachidic, behenic and erudc adds. Particulariy preferred is stearic add. Amounts of the fatty add may range from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, optimally from 1 to 5% by weight of the composition.
Compositions of this invention will indude a cosmetically acceptable carrier. Amounts of the carrier may range from 1 to 99.9%, preferably from 50 to 95%, optimally from 80 to 90%. Among the useful carriers are water, emollients, fatty alcohols, thickeners and combinations thereof. The carrier may be aqueous, anhydrous or an emulsion. Preferably the compositions are aqueous, espedally water and oil emulsions of the W/O or O/W variety. Water when present may be in amounts ranging from 1 to 95%, preferably from 20 to 70%, optimally from 35 to 60% by weight.
Emollient materials may serve as cosmetically acceptable carriers. These may be in the form of natural or synthetic esters and hydrocarbons. Amounts of the emollients may range anywhere from 0.1 to 95%, preferably between 1 and 50% by weight.
Among the ester emollients are:
a) Alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples thereof include isoarachidyl neopentanoate, isononyl isonanonoate, oleyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate.
b) Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols.
c) Polyhydric alcohol esters. Ethylene glycol mono and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty add esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty add esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty add esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl mono-stearate, 1 ,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1 ,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty add ester, sorbitan fatty add esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty add esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol esters. Particularly useful are pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane and neopentyl glycol esters of C1-C30 alcohols.
d) Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti wax and tribehenin wax.
e) Sterols esters, of which cholesterol fatty add esters are examples thereof.
f) Sugar esters of fatty adds such as sucrose polybehenate and sucrose polycottonseedate.
g) Natural esters useful in this invention are sunflower seed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, jojoba and mixtures thereof.
Hydrocarbons which are suitable cosmetically acceptable carriers indude petrolatum, mineral oil, C11-C13 isoparaffins, polyalphaolefins, and espedally isohexadecane, available commercially as Permethyi 101 A from Presperse Inc.
Fatty alcohols having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms are another useful category of cosmetically acceptable carrier. Illustrative are stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol. Amounts may range from 0.05 to 20%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of the composition.
Thickeners can be utilized as part of the cosmetically acceptable carrier of compositions according to the present invention. Typical thickeners indude polyacrylamides (e.g.
Sepigel 305®), acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers and copolymers (e.g. Aristoflex AVC), crosslinked acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 982®), hydrophobically-modified acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 1382®), cellulosic derivatives and natural gums. Among useful cellulosic derivatives are sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methocellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose. Natural gums suitable for the present invention indude guar, xanthan, 5 sclerotium, carrageenum, pectin and combinations of these gums. Inorganics may also be utilized as thickeners, particularly days such as bentonites and hectorites, fumed silicas, and silicates such as magnesium aluminum silicate (Veegum®). Amounts of the thickener may range from 0.0001 to 10%, usually from 0.001 to 1 %, optimally from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of the composition. 0 Cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be in any form. These forms may indude lotions, creams, roll-on formulations, sticks, mousses, aerosol and non-aerosol sprays and pad-applied (e.g. wipe) formulations.
Sunscreen actives may also be induded in compositions of the present invention. Particularly preferred are such materials as ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, available as5 Parsol MCX®, Avobenzene, available as Parsol 1789® and benzophenone-3, also known as Oxybenzone. Inorganic sunscreen actives may be employed such as microfine titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Amounts of the sunscreen agents when present may generally range from 0.1 to 30%, preferably from 2 to 20%, optimally from 4 to 10% by weight.
o Compositions of the present invention may also contain vitamins. Illustrative water-soluble vitamins are Niadnamide, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B6, Vitamin C, Folic Add and Biotin. Among the useful water-insoluble vitamins are Vitamin A (retinol), Vitamin A Palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Vitamin E (tocopherol), Vitamin E Acetate and DL-pantheπol. Total amount of vitamins when present in compositions according to the present invention may5 range from 0.0001 to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 1%, optimally from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of the composition.
Skin lightening agents may be induded in the compositions of the invention. Illustrative substances are placental extract, lactic add, niacinamide, arbutin, kojic add, resordnol and derivatives induding 4-substituted resordnols and combinations thereof. Amounts of these agents may range from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight of the composition.
Desquamation agents are further optional components. Illustrative are the alpha- hydroxycarboxylic adds and beta-hydroxycarboxylic adds. Among the former are salts of glycolic add, lactic add and malic add. Salicylic acid is representative of the beta- hydroxycarboxylic adds. Amounts of these materials when present may range from 0.01 to 15% by weight of the composition.
A variety of herbal extracts may optionally be induded in compositions of this invention. Illustrative are green tea, chamomile, licorice, lavender, grape seed and extract combinations thereof. The extracts may either be water soluble or water-insoluble carried in a solvent which respectively is hydrophilic or hydrophobic. Water and ethanol are the preferred extract solvents.
Anti-microbial agents may also be induded in the compositions of this invention. Illustrative are trichlosan, trichlocarban, Octopyrox® and zinc pyrithione. Amounts may range from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of the composition.
Colorants, fragrances, opadfiers and abrasives may also be induded in compositions of the present invention. Each of these substances may range from 0.05 to 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight.
The term "comprising" is meant not to be limiting to any subsequently stated elements but rather to encompass non-spedfied elements of major or minor functional importance. In other words the listed steps, elements or options need not be exhaustive. Whenever the words "induding" or "having" are used, these terms are meant to be equivalent to "comprising" as defined above. The following examples will more fully illustrate the embodiments of this invention. All parts, percentages and proportions referred to herein and in the appended claims are by weight unless otherwise illustrated.
EXAMPLE 1 to 8
Typical body lotions according to the present invention are illustrated in the EΞxamples of Table I.
The formulations of Table I are formulated in the following manner. Above specified quantities of disodium EDTA, titanium dioxide and xanthan gum/glycerin slurry are charged to a batching vessel. These components are mixed for 5 minutes and then the Carbomer is added as an aqueous solution (2% w/w). Heat is applied and the mixed contents are held at 80°C for 15 minutes. The remaining glycerin is added. The oil phase ingredients are then charged to a separate vessel. Light mixing is begun and heat applied to achieve 80°C. Slowly, the oil phase is added to the water phase under moderate mixing while maintaining temperature. All remaining water is charged to the vessel. Then the contents are homogenized at 80°C for 1 minutes. Contents are then cooled to 38-40°C accompanied by large sweep (75 rpm) mixing. Glydant Plus is added at 55°C. Cooling is continued accompanied by slow addition of DC 1501, fragrance and the various minor ingredients.
TABLE I
Figure imgf000013_0002
Figure imgf000013_0001
EXAMPLE 9
Illustrated herein is a skin cream according to the present invention.
TABLE II
Figure imgf000014_0002
Figure imgf000014_0001
y anton an o opropyny uycar amate anza nc., arawn,
EXAMPLE 10 Another oil-in-water emulsion according to the present invention is described under Table III. TABLE
Figure imgf000015_0001
EXAMPLE 11
A study was performed to evaluate various performance aspects of the present invention. For this purpose, a panel of 10 members was assembled to measure sensory properties of a series of lotions. The base formula employed for the study is reported as Example 1 , except that the Tapioca Pure, Ganzpearl® GMP 0820, and the silicones were varied according to Table IV.
TABLE IV
Figure imgf000016_0001
Each of the panelists was given the eight Samples A-H. A portion of each was spread on the panelist's hands with a request to rate each on a scale from 1 to 5. A rating of 1 corresponded to the least silky/powdery feel while a rating of 5 represented the best combination of most silky/powdery feel. Results are provided in Table V below.
Weighed rankings were obtained by multiplying the rating (1 to 5) by the number of panellists who thought that the sample fell within that rating, then adding up the five values so obtained (one for each rating) and dividing the total by five (the total number of ratings). TABLE V
Figure imgf000017_0001
The lotion which scored best was sample D formulated with a combination of Tapioca Pure and Ganzpearl® GMP 0820. The addition of silicones as in sample E was almost as silky/powdery. It was clear from samples A and B that lacking either Tapioca Pure or Ganzpearl® GMP 0820 lotions resulted with an inferior feel performance.
EXAMPLE 12
A series of experiments were conducted to evaluate skinfeel performance through instrumentation. The same samples C, E and F as in example 11 were evaluated for stick/slip friction. Each product was applied to a 15 cm by 15 cm glass plate and spread uniformly using a #12 Meier Wire Rod. The spread lotion was then dried for 18 hours at 21 °C and 50% relative humidity. A 7.6 cm by 2.5 cm aluminum sled covered with a 100% rayon nonwoven fabric (carded white nonwoven fabric made from a 100% rayon staple fibre and a binder with basis weight of 34.0 g/yd2 supplied by American Nonwovens Inc (Columbus, MS, USA)) was pulled across the surface of the sled by an Instron-type apparatus in 15 second increments, stopping at the end of each increment. The sled was pulled a distance of 2.5 cm during each 15 second increment. The sequence was: pull for 15-seconds, stop, pull for 15- seconds, stop and so on until the edge of the glass plate was reached. A new piece of nonwoven fabric was placed on the sled and the sequence was repeated on a new section of the glass plate. The sled was run without and with a 100 gram weight. Sixteen runs were performed for each condition. The data is reported in Table VI.
TABLE VI
Figure imgf000018_0001
The values in the table represent the mean peak load in grams as measured by the Instron-type apparatus force transducer with standard deviation specified. The data shows that the addition of silicones increases the peak load ("stick") 15% and 13% for the un-weighted and weighted sled. Compare sample C to sample F. The effect of all the additives is a decrease of 15% and 7%. Compare sample C to sample E. Note that the addition of Tapioca Pure and Ganzpearl® GMP 0820 to the product containing silicone reduces the peak load by 26% and 18%. Compare sample E to sample F. These tests confirm the enhanced aesthetics achievable by the Tapioca Pure and Ganzpearl® GMP 0820 combination.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (i) from 0.1 to 10% by weight of tapioca starch; (ii) from 0.001 to 5% by weight of polyacrylic beads of number average partide size ranging from 1 to 50 microns; (iii) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of an emulsifier; (iv) optionally, an effective amount to provide an initial silky feel upon skin contact of a polysiloxane material ; (v) optionally, from 0.1 to 20% by weight of a C12-C22 fatty add; (vi) optionally, from 0.001 to 40% by weight of polyhydric alcohol; (vii) optionally, an effective amount to preserve of a preservative; and (viii) a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
2. The cosmetic composition according to daim 1 wherein the polyacrylic beads are crosslinked polymethyl methacrylate beads.
3. The cosmetic composition according to daim 1 or daim 2 wherein the beads have a number average partide size ranging from 3 to 15 microns.
4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding daims wherein the polysiloxane material is a dimethiconol.
5. The composition according to any one of the preceding daims wherein the tapioca starch is present in an amount from 0.5 to 5% by weight of the composition.
6. The composition according to any one of the preceding daims wherein the polyhydric alcohol is glycerin.
7. The composition according to any one of the preceding daims wherein the polysiloxane material is present from 0.1 to 80% by weight of the composition.
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