KR0163514B1 - Cosmetic composition for whitening - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition for whitening Download PDFInfo
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- KR0163514B1 KR0163514B1 KR1019950046167A KR19950046167A KR0163514B1 KR 0163514 B1 KR0163514 B1 KR 0163514B1 KR 1019950046167 A KR1019950046167 A KR 1019950046167A KR 19950046167 A KR19950046167 A KR 19950046167A KR 0163514 B1 KR0163514 B1 KR 0163514B1
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- betaine
- whitening
- cosmetic composition
- arbutin
- licorice
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/75—Anti-irritant
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- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
본 발명은 미백화장료조성물에 관한 것으로, 보다 상세하게는 미백 유효성분으로서 알부틴을 사용하는 제품에 베타인 및 감초산 유도체를 첨가함으로써 알부틴의 경피흡수를 촉진시킬 뿐만 아니라, 피부 자극성을 현저히 개선시키는 미백화장료 조성물에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a whitening cosmetic composition, and more particularly, by adding betaine and licorice derivatives to a product using arbutin as a whitening active ingredient, whitening not only promotes percutaneous absorption of arbutin, but also significantly improves skin irritation. It relates to a cosmetic composition.
Description
본 발명은 미백화장료 조성물에 관한 것으로, 보다 상세하게는 미백유효성분으로서 알부틴을 사용하는 제품에 베타인 및 감초산 유도체를 첨가함으로서 알부틴의 경피흡수를 촉진시킬 뿐만 아니라 피부 자극성을 현저히 개선시킨 미백화장료 조성물에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a whitening cosmetic composition, and more particularly, by adding betaine and licorice derivatives to a product using arbutin as a whitening active ingredient, a whitening cosmetic material that not only promotes percutaneous absorption of arbutin but also significantly improves skin irritation. It relates to a composition.
사람의 피부색은 멜라닌이라는 색소에 의해 결정되어지는데, 이는 체내에서 아미노산의 일종인 티로신으로부터 효소인 티로시나제에 의해 만들어진다. 티로시나제는 자외선에 의해 더욱 활성화되기 때문에, 햇빛에 많이 노출될 경우 피부가 검게 변하게 된다는 것을 잘 알려진 사실이다.Human skin color is determined by a pigment called melanin, which is made by tyrosinase, an enzyme from tyrosine, an amino acid in the body. Because tyrosinase is more activated by ultraviolet light, it is well known that the skin turns black when exposed to a lot of sunlight.
그러므로, 국내 및 일본등지에서 피부미백효과를 나타내는 화장품들이 큰 시장을 형성하고 있는데, 이들은 대개 티로시나제의 활성을 억제하는 효과가 있는 물질들을 배합한 제품들이 대부분이다. 종래의 티로시나제의 활성억제제로서 미백화장품에 배합되는 원료들에는 아스코르빈산(비타민 C) 및 그 유도체, 상백피추출물, 녹차추출물, 알로에추출물, 알로에추출물, 황금추출물 등의 식물추출물뿐만 아니라 최근에는 코직산, 알부틴, 유용성감초추출물 등을 들 수 있다.Therefore, cosmetics exhibiting skin whitening effects in Korea and Japan form a large market, and most of them are products containing substances that are effective in inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase. The raw materials to be incorporated into the whitening cosmetics as an active inhibitor of conventional tyrosinase include ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives, lettuce extract, green tea extract, aloe extract, aloe extract, golden extract, as well as kojic acid, Arbutin, oil-soluble licorice extract, and the like.
한편, 미백효과를 높이기 위한 방법 중 하나로 일본특허공개 제94-56642호, 제94-56643호 및 제94-56644호서는 특정의 베타인 유도체(탄소수가 8-24) 1종 또는 2종 이상과 고급지방산, 고급 알킬황산에스테르염 또는 아실메틸타우린을 각각 1종씩 함유시켜 알부틴의 경피흡수를 촉진시킨 예가 있는데, 이들은 어느 정도 경피흡수를 촉진시킬 수는 있지만 피부를 자극시키는 문제점이 있다.On the other hand, as one of the methods for enhancing the whitening effect, Japanese Patent Laid-Open Nos. 94-56642, 94-56643 and 94-56644 disclose one or two or more specific betaine derivatives (8-24 carbon atoms); There is an example of promoting the percutaneous absorption of arbutin by containing one each of a higher fatty acid, a higher alkyl sulfate ester salt or acylmethyltaurine, but they may promote the percutaneous absorption to some extent, but there is a problem of irritating the skin.
그러므로, 본 발명자들은 미백효과가 우수하면서도 피부안정성이 우수한 미백화장료를 발명하고자 예의 연구를 거듭한 결과, 유효성분으로서 알부틴을 사용하는 제품에 천연보습성분인 베타인을 첨가할 경우 알부틴의 용해성을 높여 경피흡수를 증대시키며, 여기에 감초산 유도체로서 디포타슘 글리시레티네이트 또는 스테아릴 글리시레티네이트를 첨가할 때 피부 자극성이 현저히 낮아지는 것을 발견하여 본 발명을 완성하게 되었다.Therefore, the present inventors have intensively researched to invent a whitening cosmetic having excellent whitening effect and excellent skin stability. As a result, when betaine, which is a natural moisturizing ingredient, is added to a product using arbutin as an active ingredient, the solubility of arbutin is increased. Increasing the absorption, and the addition of dipotassium glycyrrhetinate or stearyl glycyrrhetinate as licorice derivative to this significantly lowered the skin irritation, thus completing the present invention.
이하 본 발명을 상세하게 설명한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
본 발명에 사용된 알부틴은 신선한 산악지방에서 자생하는 월귤나무류(bearberry, blueberry, cranberry등)에 다량 존재하는 천연의 당유도체로 멜라닌 생성효소인 티로시나제의 화성을 억제시키는데 탁월한 효과가 있으며 현존하는 여타의 유효성분인 히드로퀴논, 코직산, 비타민 C등에 효능·효과, 안정성 및 안전성 등의 종합적인 면에서 그 상대적인 우수성이 입증되고 있는 물질로 하기 일반식(Ⅰ)로 표시된다.Arbutin used in the present invention is a natural sugar derivative that is present in a large amount in bilberry (bearberry, blueberry, cranberry, etc.) growing in fresh mountainous regions, and has an excellent effect on inhibiting the chemical composition of tyrosinase, a melanogenesis enzyme, and other existing compounds. It is represented by the following general formula (I) as a substance whose relative superiority has been demonstrated in terms of efficacy, effect, stability, and safety of hydroquinone, kojic acid, vitamin C, and the like as an active ingredient.
본 발명에 사용된 감초산 유도체는 감초에서 얻어진 감초산에 스테아릴 알콜을 결합시킨 스테아릴 글리시레티네이트와 감초산을 수산화 칼륨으로 중화시킨 디포타슘 글리시레티네이트의 1종 또는 2종을 선택 사용하는데, 여기서 스테아릴 글리시레티네이트는 유용성, 디포타슘 글리시레티네이트는 수용성 성분으로 이들은 감초산 자체에 비하여 항염증효과뿐만 아니라, 안정성 및 안전성 면에서도 우수하여 의약품으로 쓰이고 있는 인도메타신 및 화장품에서 쓰이는 대표적으로 항염성 물질인 비사보롤에 준하는 효과를 보이고 있다. 그러나 인도메타신은 의약품용으로 화장품에 사용할 수 없으며, 비사보롤은 부작용이 상당히 있는 것으로 확인되었다. 감초산의 수용성 유도체인 디포타슘 글리세티네이트도 함염증 효과는 우수하나, 염의 형태로 되어 있어 유화제품에의 적용시 제약이 따른다.The licoriceic acid derivative used in the present invention is selected from one or two of stearyl glycyrrhetinate in which stearyl alcohol is bound to licorice obtained from licorice and dipotassium glycyrrhetinate in which licorice acid is neutralized with potassium hydroxide. Stearyl glycyrrhetinate is an oil-soluble component, dipotassium glycyrrhetinate is a water-soluble ingredient, and they are indomethacin, which is used as a medicine because of its excellent anti-inflammatory effect, stability and safety compared to licorice itself. It is shown to be equivalent to bisabolol, an anti-inflammatory substance that is typically used in cosmetics. However, indomethacin cannot be used in cosmetics for medicine, and bisabolol has been found to have significant side effects. Dipotassium glycerinate, a water-soluble derivative of licoriceic acid, also has an excellent anti-inflammatory effect, but is in the form of a salt, which results in limitations when applied to an emulsified product.
본 발명에 사용된 베타인(betaine, trimethylglycine)은 사탕무우의 부산물인 당밀로부터 분리 정제시켜 얻어진 천연물질로서 보습성, 안전성 및 안정성이 매우 우수하며, 하기 일반식 (Ⅱ)로 표시된다.Betaine (betaine, trimethylglycine) used in the present invention is a natural substance obtained by separating and purifying from molasses which is a by-product of sugar beet, has excellent moisture retention, safety and stability, and is represented by the following general formula (II).
이하 본 발명을 좀 더 상세하게 설명한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
본 발명은 알부틴 0.1~20중량%, 감초산 유도체 0.01~2.0중량%, 베타인 단독또는 베타인에 글리세린, 1,3-부틸렌글리콜 및 프로필렌글리콜 중에서 선택된 1종 또는 2종 이상을 혼합한 혼합물 2~20중량%를 함유함을 특징으로 한다. 이 때 알부민의 함량이 0.1중량% 미만일 경우 그 양이 매우 작아 미백효과를 기대하기 어려우며, 20중량% 초과시에는 용해도가 나쁘기 때문에 제제화시키기 어렵다. 또한, 감초산 유도체의 함량은 0.01~2.0중량%가 가장 바람직한데 이는 0.01중량% 미만에서는 그 효과를 기대하기 어렵고, 2.0중량% 초과시에는 그 효과가 그다지 증대하지 않기 때문이다. 마찬가지 이유로 베타인 역시 1 내지 20중량%가 가장 바람직하다.The present invention is 0.1 to 20% by weight of arbutin, 0.01 to 2.0% by weight of licorice derivatives, a mixture of betaine alone or betaine, one or two or more selected from glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol and propylene glycol 2 It is characterized by containing 20% by weight. In this case, when the content of albumin is less than 0.1% by weight, the amount is very small, so it is difficult to expect a whitening effect, and when it exceeds 20% by weight, it is difficult to formulate because of poor solubility. In addition, the content of the licorice acid derivative is most preferably 0.01 to 2.0% by weight because it is difficult to expect the effect at less than 0.01% by weight, since the effect does not increase so much when more than 2.0% by weight. For the same reason betaine is also preferably 1 to 20% by weight.
이하 실시예 및 비교예를 통하여 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples.
[실시예 1~2 및 비교예 1~3][Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-3]
표 1에 나타낸 바와 같이, 실시예 1~2는 통상적인 화장수 처방에 항염증 성분으로서 디포타슘 글리시레티네이트를 사용하고 경피흡수 촉진제로서 베타인 단독(실시예 1) 또는 베타인에 글리세린을 5:5 비율로 혼합(실시예 2)하여 제조하였으며, 비교예 1은 글리세린을 단독으로 사용한 것, 비교예 2는 프로필렌글리콜을 사용한 것, 비교예 3은 글리세린과 프로필렌글리콜을 혼합사용한 것이다. 표 1의 조성에 따라 수상과 알코올상을 각각 실온에서 교반하여 완전히 용해시킨 다음, 수상에 알코올상을 서서히 투입하면서 500 내지 100rpm으로 5분간 교반하여 제조하였다.As shown in Table 1, Examples 1 and 2 use dipotassium glycyrrhetinate as an anti-inflammatory component in a conventional cosmetic lotion formulation, and betaine alone (Example 1) or betaine glycerin to betaine 5: It was prepared by mixing (Example 2) at a ratio of 5, Comparative Example 1 was used alone glycerol, Comparative Example 2 was used propylene glycol, Comparative Example 3 was used by mixing glycerine and propylene glycol. According to the composition of Table 1, the aqueous phase and alcohol phase were each completely dissolved by stirring at room temperature, and then, while slowly adding the alcohol phase to the aqueous phase, the mixture was stirred at 500 to 100 rpm for 5 minutes.
[실시예 3~6 및 비교예 4~7][Examples 3-6 and Comparative Examples 4-7]
표 2에 나타낸 바와 같이 실시예 3~6은 유화형 에센스 제품에 항염증 성분으로서 스테아릴글리시레티네이트를 사용하였고, 경피흡수 촉진제로서 실시예 3은 베타인을 단독으로 사용한 것, 실시예 4는 베타인에 글리세린을 혼합사용한 것, 실시예 5는 베타인에 1,3-부틸렌글리콜을 혼합사용한 것, 실시예 6은 베타인에 글리세린과 1,3-부틸렌글리콜을 혼합사용하여 제조하였으며, 비교예 4는 글리세린을 단독으로 사용한 것, 비교예 5는 1,3-부틸렌글리콜을 단톡으로 사용한 것, 비교예 6은 글리세린과 1,3-부틸렌글리콜을 혼합사용한 것, 비교예 7은 베타인에 글리세린과 1,3-부틸렌글리콜을 혼합사용하였으며, 비교예 6~7은 항염증 성분인 스테아릴 글리시레티네이트는 사용하지 않고 제조하였다.As shown in Table 2, Examples 3 to 6 used stearyl glycyretinate as an anti-inflammatory component in an emulsified essence product, and Example 3 used betaine alone as a transdermal absorption accelerator. A mixture of glycerin and betaine, Example 5 was prepared by mixing 1,3-butylene glycol with betaine, and Example 6 was prepared by mixing glycerin and 1,3-butylene glycol with betaine. 4 is glycerin alone, Comparative Example 5 is 1,3-butylene glycol as a single tok, Comparative Example 6 is a mixture of glycerin and 1,3-butylene glycol, Comparative Example 7 to betaine Glycerin and 1,3-butylene glycol were mixed and used, and Comparative Examples 6 to 7 were prepared without using stearyl glycyrrhetinate as an anti-inflammatory component.
이들의 제조방법으로는 표 2의 조성에 따라 유상을 65℃, 수상을 60~65℃로 가열 용해시킨 후 호모믹서를 이용하여 수상에 유상을 서서히 첨가하면서 4000 내지 5000rpm으로 2 내지 4분간 교반 후 이어서 중화제 및 에탄올, 방부제, 향료를 서서히 투입하여 4000 내지 5000rpm으로 4 내지 5분간 교반 후 실온까지 냉각시켜 제조하였다.According to the composition of Table 2, the oil phase was melted at 65 ° C. and the water phase at 60-65 ° C. according to the composition shown in Table 2, followed by stirring at 4000 to 5000 rpm for 2 to 4 minutes while gradually adding the oil phase to the water phase using a homomixer. Subsequently, the neutralizing agent, ethanol, preservative, and fragrance were slowly added thereto, stirred at 4000 to 5000 rpm for 4 to 5 minutes, and cooled to room temperature.
[피부 1차 자극성시험(첩포시험)][Skin primary irritation test (patch test)]
상기 실시예 및 비교예에 따라 제조된 제품들의 피부자극성을 알아보기 위하여 건강한 성인 남, 여 50명을 대상으로 등부위에 각 시료의 일정량(약 0.2g)을 첩포한 후, 핀 챔버를 제거하고 4시간 경과한 다음 육안으로 피부상태 변화를 판독하였으며, 그 결과를 표 3에 나타내었다.In order to examine the skin irritation properties of the products prepared according to the above examples and comparative examples, a certain amount (approximately 0.2 g) of each sample was applied to the back of the healthy adult males and females, and the pin chamber was removed. After a lapse of time, the change of skin condition was visually read, and the results are shown in Table 3.
상기 표 3의 결과에서 알 수 있는 바와 같이 감초산 유도체가 첨가되지 않은 비교예 3,6 및 7은 다른 예들에 비해 높은 자극도를 나타내었다.As can be seen from the results of Table 3, Comparative Examples 3, 6, and 7, in which no licorice derivatives were added, exhibited higher stimulation than other examples.
[경피흡수 측정시험][Percutaneous absorption measurement test]
알부틴에 대한 경피흡수 촉진효과를 평가하기 위해 헤어리스마우스의 피부를 이용해 피부투과시험을 행하였다. 직경 15.0밀리미터의 피부표면에 시료를 각각 48마이크로리터씩 주입하고 경피흡수 실험기기(Franz형 확산 셀, Hanson사)를 이용하여 24시간 후에 투과된 알부틴의 양을 HPLC법(High Pressure Liquid Chromatography)으로 정량하여 표 4에 투과율(%)로 나타내었다.In order to evaluate the transdermal absorption promoting effect on arbutin, a skin permeation test was conducted using the skin of hairless mice. 48 microliters of sample were injected into the skin surface of 15.0mm diameter, and the amount of arbutin permeated after 24 hours using a transdermal absorption apparatus (Franz diffusion cell, Hanson) was analyzed by HPLC (High Pressure Liquid Chromatography). Quantification is shown in Table 4 as the transmittance (%).
상기 표 4의 결과로부터 베타인을 함유한 실시예 3 내지 6이 이를 함유하지 않은 비교예 4 내지 6에 비하여 경피흡수가 현저히 촉진되었음을 알 수 있다.From the results of Table 4, it can be seen that Examples 3 to 6 containing betaine were significantly promoted percutaneous absorption compared to Comparative Examples 4 to 6 not containing it.
Claims (4)
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KR1019950046167A KR0163514B1 (en) | 1995-12-02 | 1995-12-02 | Cosmetic composition for whitening |
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Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
KR20020046034A (en) * | 2000-12-12 | 2002-06-20 | 안경옥 | cream method of producing for toilet |
WO2002055047A1 (en) * | 2001-01-10 | 2002-07-18 | Cotde, Inc. | Skin whitening composition containing arbutin and glucosidase as active ingredients |
KR100424728B1 (en) * | 2001-05-28 | 2004-03-30 | 주식회사 바이오랜드 | Whitening and wrinkle improvement cosmetics composition containing Areca catechu extract and Arbutin |
Families Citing this family (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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KR100447441B1 (en) * | 1997-06-13 | 2004-11-03 | 애경산업(주) | Skin whitening agent containing bird's nest extract as tyrosinase inhibiting agent as main component and albutin or kojic acid as auxiliary component |
KR100374965B1 (en) * | 1998-01-08 | 2003-06-11 | 주식회사 참 존 | Method for stabilizing arbutin and maintaining skin-whitening effect using rutin |
MY137132A (en) * | 1999-07-12 | 2008-12-31 | Splash Mfg Corp | A skin care composition for the skin cell renewal, reduction of comedones smoothing action, skin smoothening and skin pore refinement |
KR20030079111A (en) * | 2002-04-02 | 2003-10-10 | 학교법인 경북과학대학 | The compositions of whitening cosmetics for the natural plants ext. |
KR100530669B1 (en) * | 2002-05-21 | 2005-11-23 | 주식회사 코리아나화장품 | Cosmetic Compositions Comprising Lactate and Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extracts for Skin Whitening |
KR101250894B1 (en) * | 2010-11-02 | 2013-04-04 | 주식회사 지본코스메틱 | Cosmetic Compositions and Sleeping Water Mask using Intensive Witening Zanthoxylumcomposite |
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1995
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Cited By (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
KR20020046034A (en) * | 2000-12-12 | 2002-06-20 | 안경옥 | cream method of producing for toilet |
WO2002055047A1 (en) * | 2001-01-10 | 2002-07-18 | Cotde, Inc. | Skin whitening composition containing arbutin and glucosidase as active ingredients |
KR100389983B1 (en) * | 2001-01-10 | 2003-07-04 | 바이오스펙트럼 주식회사 | Skin whitening composition containing arbutin and glucosidase as active ingredients |
KR100424728B1 (en) * | 2001-05-28 | 2004-03-30 | 주식회사 바이오랜드 | Whitening and wrinkle improvement cosmetics composition containing Areca catechu extract and Arbutin |
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